How To Replace Rear Brakes 04-11 Ford F150
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- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2018
- Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/c/387/k/brake-kits
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old brakes. This video is applicable to 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 Ford F150
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2009 Ford F150 Truck
2010 Ford F150 Truck
2011 Ford F150 Truck
2012 Ford F150 Truck
2013 Ford F150 Truck
2014 Ford F150 Truck
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/opx/1AXAA00013
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oeg/1AXAA00020
• 10mm Wrench 1aau.to/od8/1AXAA00010
• 15mm Wrench 1aau.to/od8/1AXAA00010
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/om5/1AXAA00017
• 15mm Socket 1aau.to/opA/1AXAA00015
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/ogG/1AXAA00043
• Brake Caliper Compressor Tool. Single Piston. Screw Style. 1aau.to/oe/1AXAA00012
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/och/1AXAA00051
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/och/1AXAA00052
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/oa8/1AXAA00078
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oja/1AXAA00044
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Fluid
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Cloth Rags 1aau.to/ob7/1AXSS00035
• Rust Penetrant
• Drain Pan 1aau.to/obH/1AXAA00320
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oeA/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/oed/1AXAA00091
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oeh/1AXAA00065
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. 
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Really nice video. I hope my reply makes people take the time to watch. This nice lady is very understandable and she really should do a lot more videos.
I'm a gear head and I appreciate what she just did.
I have nothing but respect for this lady. She is doing such a clean job.
Hands down the best DIY mechanic videos that I’ve used on RUclips! Thanks for the clear and concise step by step instruction! Great videos!
I have never opened the bleeder screw on any vehicle that needs a brake job and has abs and never once have i damaged an abs module by pushing the piston back. They are designed to have pressure go both ways.
Me either and I have 30yrs. M-Benz experience. ABS has been around since MY '82, or thereabouts.
Your both Wrong! The ABS is Not designed to have force against it (Push In) you must open bleeder screw. I'm a mechanical Engineer from Ford.
Why do you think we have bleeder screws? Bleeds Air out of lines (when replacing Calipers) and allows safe retraction of bake cylinder equipped with ABS system.
Me neither. I’ve always done my own brake jobs, always had abs, and never released the bleeder valve for just changing pads and rotors. Never had a damaged abs. 🤷♂️
@@SF-rl7hl The official Ford service info doesn’t instruct you to open the bleeder at least on a 2009 RWD model. Some people do it but living in the rust belt I’m going to try and avoid it.
I never did either but recently learned that the reason you should do it on abs is because the fluid in the caliper area gets very hot during breaking and can become contaminated. If you push this fluid back up into the abs module you risk damaging the abs module - really expensive part.
Just wanted to say Thank You very much for your service. I chose to buy from 1A Auto because of the perfectly detailed DIY videos you presented which gave me the confidence to change my own brakes which I could have never done by referencing a Chilton/Haynes manual. Your video quality in editing, lighting, perspective, and narration are second to none and it shows that you really care about conveying the knowledge. Keep up the good work!
My lady you're a real good mechanic, I have watching few of your video's and I am amazed about you performance, congratulations 😊
Nice job. You explain things very well with not a lot of excess talking. Thank you.
Sue, you have done a wonderful job of working on the brakes and helping me maintain my truck
+Oby-1 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Great video but never hang let the caliper hang could damaged the rear brake hose or add further damage to the hose always hang the caliper
+Jerry Olivares Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Wow you can really tell that that truck is up north. I watched your video to replace my front brakes on my 2012 f150 Harley edition. Thank you. It made the job very easy. Living in Texas i didn’t have to deal with the rust so that helped. Thanks again. I don’t believe the back brakes are ready to change yet. I did watch the video to see if there were any surprises before i do change them. 😎👍
I just watched a video where they replaced the rear pads and the rotor on a 2011 F150 and the pads had the double notch on the top and the single notch on the bottom with the wear indicator on the bottom. I figured I would watch your video as well to make sure there was nothing different. I guess I’ll just see how mine is laid out and put it back that way.
This is a great video. I watched others and nobody mentioned opening the bleeder. Kudos.
Very helpful brake video -- best yet by a long shot. Thank you.
+Victor Baltov Thanks for checking us out!
Nicely done, way to handle that tire and rim!
Thanks for the thorough explanation.
+whitefang351 Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I like how you are very descriptive and how you do your repairs I do want to say though I was always told that I should not let the calipers hang by the hose that you should use a hanger or something to keep the weight off the hose, just something I noticed. Keep up the good work!
enjoyed the video, we forgot to grease the back of the pads mating surfaces, i believe we forgot to grease the shim surfaces , we also forgot to antisieze the 10 mm and bleeder valve , brass banjo plainly doesn't need it, also while cleaning and adjusting the parking brakes there is three contact points per shoe that get a dab of grease and if my memory serves me right there is an actuator lever that gets rusty and causes the P brake to stick , lil dab of something inside the adjuster wouldn't hurt, nice touch on the antisieze round the center cap area
No PPE was used, esp. EYE protection.
Thanks so much! Very helpful tip on breaking loose the rotor by hammering the "hat".
The harmonic balancer on the caliper slider comes off. Hold the caliper bolt with the 10mm wrench and use a vise grip to give the balancer a twist. Remove balancer then use the box end of the wrench or socket to remove caliper bolt.
Wish i wouldve read this 2 hrs ago. Mine was rounded
it is held on with a torx head small bolt under the plastic cap
I love that model! Sue's awesome! 💚! 😎
Never let the caliber hang
Maybe it's the old farmer in me talking, but those brake pads looked like they had another 200,000 km in them lol
I’ve never seen anyone dangle the caliper by the brake line. But I guess it helps get another brake job sooner to replace those.
+DaBuick Thanks for the feedback!
great video! Thanks
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Syzygy Glass
Solid. Saved me a bundle.
+Dewey Fosworth Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great video 👍🏼
A1 is always on point. And love to see. women doing mechanics to set you straight. What a man can do a woman can do.
Wow. I didn’t know you had to open the bleeder screw when compressing the caliper. Just always grabbed a C clamp or caliper compressor to do it but I will start opening the bleeder screw for now on. As a plan to keep this truck for a while
good video thanks
Great video
+Kent Powell Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Will this work on my 2012 f150
When bleeding, you should tap the caliper with something metal to make sure any air bubbles are knocked loose. Make sure the parking brake adjuster moves freely before putting the new rotor on. Even though the calipers are pretty small, they probably should not be supported by the rubber hose. Otherwise, great info.
+a2cryss Thanks for the feedback!
add any grease on the sliders ?
Good job 👍🏿
+Black Enigma Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Amazing video thank u for posting just finished my brakes turned out perfect!!
+Sean O'Keefe Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
on this truck do all 4 brakes stop the truck or is it the front that do most the stopping unless abs kicks in and uses the rears?
is it common to gut the parking brake gear/parts if it is never used or seized/inoperable?
I was wondering why she didn't use any "disc brake quiet" spray on the new pads. I've always used that.
Thanks
+Joseph Barrera Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You should put the shim on before putting the new disc on
Take a air hammer with a straight shank or hammer shank and blast it all around the outside of the rotor, it makes them come off especially when you live in the rust belt.
I have never had any ABS issues, I never open a system unless I am changing a calibre. How does a ABS system not allow 2 way fluid direction, it activates brakes off and on ?
Should mention that the rear calibers could be potentially put on upside down. Meaning the bleeder valve is on the bottom and not the top making it impossible to bleed afterwards..
+Brad Durnford Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
If you need pahts for your cah. Love it!!!!
Why the heck would you open the bleeder??????? 25 YEARS AND IM STILL WAITING ON THAT DAMAGED ABS MOD!!!!🤣😂🤣👍
Was wondering this to
Apparently at some point in time this "issue" was something to be mindful about. However with vehicles made in the last 20 years it's no longer seen as a problem. Vehicle manufacturers have taken great steps to make sure the ABS Module isn't compromised when changing out brake pads and rotors. It was true during it's inception in the 1970's all the way into the late 90's. First generation ABS Modules were very delicate and one tiny mishap causes brake failure(s). It took years of refinement and revisions to get the ABS technology up to par with necessary standards. So yeah go figure 🍾
I've replaced a fair amount of brakes without issue and have never dealt with brake fluid. Is it necessary to do this on my 2010 F-150 or can I pull the caliper, remove and replace the pads, replace the rotors, and reinstall?
+Chris H Thanks for watching! If you will be bottoming out the caliper pistons and you have an ABS system, then you will have to follow this process to prevent damage to your vehicle.
What was wrong with those brakes
How would you go about getting the top bolt loose if the heads stripped...?
see my comment above
Let the caliper hand on the hose that’s always smart lol
You got lucky the rims don't usually break loose that easily!
True that! I literally and feel bad saying this but I never in my life used a sledge hammer untill I changed rear brake. At first I tried the typical kick then a few more kicks then even more harder kicks then I took break after it was round two I was felt mike tyson! I beat the u know what out of this wheel. I lost
That round. Long story short after tapping the rim with wood and hammer I cracked the plastic layer. Little did I know that it was plastic coated. I always s thought it to be chrome dip metal. So by time 2 hrs later I got the sledge hammer out destroyed the rim I got it off. I won but i lost. Moral of the story be liberal with antiseze.
if my pads looked so good I wouldn't be changing them.
Damn, knocking those 150 ftlb lugs like a boss
Prolly should have used a BREAKER bar to loosen the lug bolts, then a ratchet to run them down.
150ft/lbs. torque is pretty hard on ratchet teeth.
Great video. But man I'm glad I don't live back East. The rust on that truck. Mine is a 2012 and I have no rust here in Az.
+Paul Runyon Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Paul runyan soon enough you won't have any water either
Anyone know the torque for the caliper ?
A nice tug is what
Wow... for those of you using this video as a "how to"...
*If you open the hydraulic system, YOU NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES!
*NEVER HANG THE CALIPER BY THE HOSE!
🙄
I need brake paaarts for my caaar.....New Jersey/Boston accents crack me up...
Sorry, no torque spec on caliper?
+sam kolbinson Thanks for checking us out! The two 10mm bolts would need to be tightened to 17 foot-pounds. Hope this helps you out!
2008 and below are different from 2011
East coast truck ? There you again , hanging the caliper !
no torque specs?
Just tighten it it's an old f150 not a race car
13:18
I opened my bleeder valve for nothing. This is misinformation.
In your video, turning the parking pass loose and tight. You’re adjusting them backwards both times. Waisted half hour on my life trying to loosen the pads. Fix your video. It’s handle pivot up to loosen, handle pivot down to tighten.
+Ethan Ellingsen Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Amateur move using that wrenvh on the bleeder instead of a 6 point
Amateur move to use a wrench, I use my fingers.