The wago trick is exactly what I do and something I figured out when plastering my house for the first time. I was surprised no one on RUclips beside you even thought about it. Great tips by the way.
Thank you. You made this look easy and it gave me confidence to have a try. I still screwed it up but it’s better than what I had. I’ve ordered sde to try to seal my walls going forward and prevent instant cracking. Hope it does the trick better than pva
Thanks for your video. Would just like to recommend turning off the power and TESTING it's not live before removing switches. I can confirm I learnt this lesson the hard way.
Love the videos Blaine please keep them coming. Would you ever consider making a video how to handle the plaster hardening while you are still doing the wall, sometimes you can be caught out and end up chasing your tail.
Spot on with the advice there blaine wouldn't have done a single thing different to you great video and also great inspiration for a new generation of plasterers on the up keep up the good work 👍
Loving your videos, brilliant for someone like me, I’m teaching my self to plaster by doing the rooms and ceilings in our house. Great teacher thank you..
I've got a whole house to replaster and watched a few 'how to plaster' videos. I wish I hadnt wasted my time on them now that I've watched yours haha. Thanks for the time and effort you've put in 👍 subbed.
hi blaine ,love watching your content and the stapler trick for the beads for me has been a game changer,so simple but saves so much hassle. id like to give you a tip in return. if you ever find the need to cut of expanding foam that has become proud, use a hacksaw blade and put electrical tape round one half to stop it cutting your fingers. makes a clean cut and doesnt tear it up like other saws do. keep up the great work pal.
What we use for the corner beads and style trims is a paslode pin gun I know there expensive but they save so time and they don’t deform the bead or trim shape when u shoot them on
Brilliant video. Did a 2 week plastering course in stoke a few months ago which was great, ever since ive been trying to find a video to replicate how they taught it, but couldnt, stumbled on this today and its pretty much exactly how they taught it. Great recap thanks. Only difference was they use plasiflex and then the flexitrowel to finish, so different order at the end, that just personal preference is it?
Hi Blaine instead of using a brush doing pva I fine that a paint roller is better for pva you cover the walls quickly plus it saves you brush from cleaning it
Very helpful tips, particularly about applying PVA on older plasterboard. Only thing I'm not sure if you can leave PVA to dry till the next and skim plaster then, or needs to be done soon after it has become tacky or touch dry the same day...would appreciate any more tips👍
I am glad you said about applying the PVA to old board. The ceiling I am doing this week unfortunately did have wall paper on the plaster board. It has been removed but I would like to think the plaster board soaked all the water out of the wall paper paste. What is the best approach if the board has old paper on it? Love your videos 👍
doing a stairs after watching ur vids opened a few month old multi finish wanted to see what happens when its passed it sell by date it set within 10 mins
My only comment as a spread, i would'nt take sockets off because of public liability, not sure what would happen (insurance wise) if something went wrong, plastic bag usually works ok.
Great blog. Maybe you could do a vlog on the different between bonding and hardwall. Where and when to use. Also why some plasterer use bonding and some hardwall. I seem to use hardwall alot now. Great vlog a Pleasure to watch
Thank you great video. Just another tip to the audience, if you look in the back of the socket there will be clips to put the securing screws in...that way you don't lose them : )
Don't know if it's been said but anywhere you apply the bonding you'll have to come back and PVA if your coming back another day. Due to the suction. it is a good idea though if you've got the time. Multi tends to hang and sag when your going thicker. Literally any gap that can be prefilled will help!
can you do a video about plastering in thin channels like side of a doo tor maybe 2 inches ..and how to get it level...also how to plaster in between dado rail and cornices when trowel is just too long.
Always keep some knives around for tight spaces or little tweaks in pesky corners... You can always just whack some plaster with the trowel and then nicely finish it with a knife if the spot is unconfortable ✌ You can also set the plaster with a paintbrush in those 2 inch wide spots. Put a bit of plaster in a cup and adjust the consistency if needed and spread it evenly, wait like 20 minutes, moisten it a bit with some water using the paintbrush and then use the side of a knife to make it nice and smooth ✌
At 2:50 the "tug test" to make sure the Wago is on tight; a few electricians could do well to remember that one. On a new build a decent sparks should set the cables back into the box out of your way. The edge on a well used trowel is like a razor and nicks our cable without showing a mark. Finally. you can buy a small hand tool to clean the socket box threads which makes electrical second fix a little easier. Thanks again from the sparks.
Hi, great channel. I have a house with no cavities. It is all finished to a high quality with plastering but I’m considering lining the exterior walls with insulation boards. If I did, would it be ok to fix them straight to the existing finished walls with an adhesive such as pink grip?
Brilliant video as usual and great advice given. I have a question - have you had much experience skimming moisture resistant plasterboard, the green stuff? I've heard comments before from others about using blue grit primer and the likes before applying finish plaster. But was wondering if I could use a thin coat of bonding plaster straight onto the boards and then follow up with 2 coats of multifinish? I am in the process of putting up a ceiling in my garage, and whilst there isn't a particular issue with dampness, the garage is unheated so does get quite cold as you can imagine, so not sure how well standard boards would hold up long term.
I’ve just started a 4 bed detached house that’s had a full re wire,the first day I used British gypsum bonding and was finding towards the end of using all the bonding up it was going solid in my bucket and on my tools,my tip if your doing lots of chases is to use the make good bonding as it lasts up to 3 times longer in the bucket I have found and even when it does start going off it still cleans out much easier than gypsum bonding 👍
Hello Blaine, I have just noticed you say the sound block board is only tapered but if you install the board the opposite way round you will get straight/flush edges. Let me know what you think.
I use spray adhesive to stick the scrim tape on. I spray each part that wants taping, leave it a few minutes so it tacks up. Then stick my scrim on. As I find the tape is never as sticky as it should be
@@GSDhandler1 i find orange scrim is really sticky, okj its a bit dearer but its the best lol, keep up the good work, from another plasterer 25 years counting to long lol.
I’ve used the acoustic board on a stud wall and filled the cavities between studs with insulation and you still get transference of sound bad enough so you can hear conversations in the next room. The studs need to have acoustic strips applied. Dealing with sound you’re dealing with vibration and plasterboard to wood still transfers that vibration.
Exactly that Rozzer. It's the only way to reduce the vibrations but it's never perfect. Sound travels through all mediums regardless of your levels of diffusion. It just helps
@@PlasteringForBeginners I’m building a ‘garden room’ come summer and I’ve got hold of these 4’ x 4’ x 6” insulation boards which are so dense you find it difficult to carry on your own. They also have a renderable surface one side. I’m going to build a stud work frame and then clad the frame externally by fixing these slabs of insulation to the frame with those insulation fixings. Do the roof and floor too so you effectively have a box of 6’ thick, really dense insulation. Silicone render the sides and put a marine ply and rubber flat roof on it. Then I’m going to become a Rock Star!
I struggle with both, I’ve used all sorts but the grip stuff never works for me, I certainly use more than he does and put it straight on the bead so there’s two cock ups straight away! Love this guys videos keep them coming mate really enjoy learning from a master
@@tomgriffiths6380 I was meaning from a general construction standpoint. Blaine is right tho mate when using grab adhesive for bead don't use too much. The squeeze through bits are nightmare come finishing trowel up time.
Thanks for this vid. Can I add to your tips? 1. soft broom in painters scuttle for faster PVA coverage 2. dampen edges of plasterboard patch edge for better foam bonding, nail a temporary batten across the patched hole while it sets, this allows your board to be perfectly flush without worring about the foam pushing it out. 3. cram a rectangle of cardboard in your removed socket backbox to reduce plaster buildup in there which otherwise may get on the painters roller, keeps the backbox clear for getting the wires out easier
No need for bonding I would just fill the holes and cover the skyrim with my first hawk of skim, then just skim as normal. Works a treat if the holes are not too deep.
Top video mate. Love the content you push out. I just also watched your speed skim comparison video. Think I'll be getting the refina 600mm (the spaces I need to sort are not too big). However when I checked online I can't easily find the one that you were using? Only the one handle ones. Do you have a referral link for the 600mm refina one you used mate?
Water your pva down 3 parts water to 1 part pva mate, ive used blue grit on nearly every type of surface now so there is not really a wrong or a right time, but what i will say is you get less coverage per bag on blue grit as it takes more skim to achieve your first coat buddy.
Regarding electric boxes; Agreed this can be a real pain especially in the kitchen where you could have as many as 10 sockets or more to plaster around? Though whilst your idea looks to be the correct way. Sadly most jobs I price will not cover me for 2 hrs 'Extra Work' farting around with boxes in this manner! Maybe someone could invent a temporary plastic cover that U can just clip over the socket in a convenient and safe way? This would isolate any risk of a shock but also protect the face of the socket!
@@wiktoriaslominska8078 Absolutely NOT. All I do is release them fully from the socket and carefully plaster around. By doing it this way you can also carefully clean out any debris that might get caught inside the socket! I've been plastering now for 36 yrs; Have tried ALL and Every option. This works well for me and we still work on a fine line of quantifying time to the work. This means that if you mess around too long with new ideas and concepts you will 'Not Earn'!, and if you keep doing this you will ultimately fail your business!
Hey Blaine, one thing I wish I'd known was not to be scared of removing rads. Dereton33 and others have good videos on how to do this properly. Like with everything else, some prep and practice is required but it makes a hell of a difference both in terms on finish and effort. Also looks much more professional. Once the rads off, remove the brackets too (minding if it's the wide or narrow edge that's touching the wall) and put back your screws in the existing plugs in the wall, just leave them proud so your trowel can glide over them. When you're done with the final trowel unscrew them slightly so they're easy to find when the time comes to put the rad back on. You can put it back on the same day. And like someone else has said, I think I'll be using mitre glue for the beads as it bonds instantaneously and there's just no more hassle.
All good points here - thank you very much for sharing! I'll be honest, I don't touch anything that involves water so I leave the rads to someone else but your suggestions sound bang on! Thank you for the comment and thank you for watching. I really appreciate it. Cheers pal 👍
That’s interesting. Personally I wouldn’t use mitre bond, because it bonds straightaway, with no chance to move it. What if you need to move the bead to make it more plumb etc once you’ve offered it up to the wall. I tend to use a bead of adhesive (often gripfill) or even plasterboard adhesive just to give some flexibility in getting the position right before it sets. It still sets quick enough.
@@kevinjackson5191 I've used grab adhesives precisely for the reason you mentioned. And will still use it if I feel the bead may need readjusting. But 9 times out of 10 you can check with your level prior to fixing it permanently. Mitre bond grabs instantly but you can also tear it off and put back on if you need to. No method is ideal for every scenario.
Hi blaine, I am a beginner plasterer. Would you recommend pva over all surfaces including new plaster boards to help me with time to get the product on the wall. Will it help prevent the wall sucking the life out of my plaster. Also you didn’t cover the ratio to mix pva what do you recommend and also is there a particular brand you like to use? Thanks Lee
Hi mate. Great hearing from you! To be honest PVA won't help on New board - you'd still have the same amount of plastering time. But definately PVA everything else... good strong 3:1 mix (3 water: 1 PVA) I like Evostick. Bit more expensive but worth it in my eyes! Hope this helps my friend and happy New year!
Amazing as usual Blaine. God I’ve missed watching your vids. With the adding a corner bead to an existing corner, what if the existing corner already has a corner bead beneath it? Can you still at the new one on top to prepare for replastering?
Great having you back mate!! Thank you for watching. It's not a problem as long as the original best isn't protruding to far. If not you're all good my friend 👍
Hi grate videos and full of helpful advice. !!Important!! I just want to point out though the way go switches you must use one switch per wire! Even if you have x3 wires and x3 switch connectors!!!!! No matter if it’s a double, triple, quad etc, these carry the current from the existing wire to the other switches on that block! If this makes sense?
Hi I am a plasterer in Ireland Love your videos i when reskimming old painted ceiling and not plastering walls adjoining ceiling is there a need to scrim at edges or not I do but it means I then have to Sheetrock approx 100 mm all around where scrim is on existing good walls a real pain Is scrim needed or do you just plaster to wall edges no scrim Thanks Willie
In my experience it is best practice to scrim and bring skim down. However generally speaking I won’t skrim the corner and simply cualk the arris or better yet explain to the customer that they will need to cualk it when they decorate when they paint it
@@amateurvegan2636 yes as a painter I moan at the client for me having to fix his bad job by filling over his scrim tape on the painted adjacent wall. better to use foam in the corner gap before plastering if its a stud wall, or caulk it if solid
love the tips and vidz but a tip for yourself when makin vidz ...you really need a microphone they make helluva difference to yur sound its echoey hard to hear sometimes theyre pretty cheap and pretty good nice one
If you're skimming a newly boarded ceiling but leaving the walls as they are, how can you scrim the edges without there being any tape showing? Do you just put the tape as close to the wall as possible without it showing?
Hi Blaine My bosses house is going well. Although he had all the radiators put on so had to take them all off for plastering. Just wondered if you are still sponge floating? I tried both methods and didn’t see a massive difference. I found sponge floating tool slightly longer?
I also use WAGO's to maintain continuity (and the lights!) but I also use blank facias for sockets/switches so the WAGO connectors are blanked off inside the surface. I also wrap the WAGO's in a bag as an added safety measure.
I'd leave it an hour mate, until you can't make a dent with your finger. Other than that, wait til the next day and PVA the bonding before laying on. Or, as I do it, fill your joints with skim first before applying 2 coats of multi 👍🏻
Hello mate!! How's it going, great hearing from you. No mate, my phone is rubbish - it would look like Pacman quality if I used that ha! I just use my GoPro pal 👍
I’m pretty sure bonding is designed for low suction non keyed substrates. It can be applied to fresh plasterboard though. Hardwall is for higher suction masonry backgrounds. Also I may be mistaken because I use a different type of connection block but you can put the earth live and neutral into one block as long as it’s separate terminals? Good tip with the acoustic board of your sticking them, try using foam if it’s a small area. Works fine as long as you brace them and helps insulate further. If your fitting them to studs you can apply an acoustic sealant to the studs before fixing which increases there effectiveness by ALOT. I’ve tried fixing corner beads with grip fill as well as ct1, foam and other adhesives. Personally for me, I usually stick to bonding
If it's an existing wall that's already been plastered then I would just use a finish plaster like British Gypsum Multi Finish. That's the best thing pal. Good luck 🤞
Warning Health & Safety, never leave a life circuit unattended even with Wago's, children have a way of finding them .. It goes against regs as well peepso
Bonding is medium to low suction I think you had a slip of the tongue bonding hates high suction and will crack and won’t stick well if it encounters high suction
Hello mate just had a old chimney removed in my bathroom and it has been plastered with hardwall but it absolutely stinks of ammonia Will this smell go Ps can you do a boarding and plastering under a stairwell video please
Hey Blaine In London I'm finding it hard to get any plasterers who would want someone to help them, even if they paid me nothing. Done a plastering course in Nov and done a load of plastering including rendering since got all the tools, but no one wants a hand. Do plasterers prefer to work on their own or just don't need any help? Thanks go your vids, I use bonding for beads usually.
@@Berry-fr5wj thanks mate. Its not a full time job/career for me but just want to get the experience. Happy to help anyone who has a large ceiling to do or a big hit, I've had a couple of lazy labourers myself, need them to clean up or do something whilst I am flattening. Just finding that no one gives me the time of day, a couple of calls I've had but that's it. Looking for jobs myself now.
You just have to keep trying mate. It's bloody tough but you will eventually find someone who's willing to work you. You just have to keep working at it my friend 👍
![Mariah Carey - We Belong Together [American Music Awards 50th Anniversary Special]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UnO2m2BEXDU/mqdefault.jpg)
This guy has a gift for teaching brilliant video.
Thank you so much mate. I really appreciate that 👍
Im yet to see a tutorial on RUclips that's any good
@@terry4144 there's always one 😂😂😂
The wago trick is exactly what I do and something I figured out when plastering my house for the first time. I was surprised no one on RUclips beside you even thought about it. Great tips by the way.
They are brilliant aren't they!! Cheers pal and thank you for watching my friend.
I use them too
Absolutely brilliant! Thanks a lot - great teacher
Thank you. You made this look easy and it gave me confidence to have a try. I still screwed it up but it’s better than what I had. I’ve ordered sde to try to seal my walls going forward and prevent instant cracking. Hope it does the trick better than pva
Thanks for your video. Would just like to recommend turning off the power and TESTING it's not live before removing switches. I can confirm I learnt this lesson the hard way.
Love the videos Blaine please keep them coming.
Would you ever consider making a video how to handle the plaster hardening while you are still doing the wall, sometimes you can be caught out and end up chasing your tail.
I plastered a hole house with help of your videos never done it before thank you very much
That's great to hear mate - well done my friend!!
Great video for me as a beginner - thanks!
Another handy video that mate. Be really helpful for any beginners out there. Well done again
Spot on with the advice there blaine wouldn't have done a single thing different to you great video and also great inspiration for a new generation of plasterers on the up keep up the good work 👍
Thank you so much mate, I really appreciate that mate. That means the world to me, thank you 👍
This seems to be part 3! Massive bit in the middle missing - that’s the bit I am up to!! Doh!
Thanx for sharing anyway. 😊
Good sensible advice.
Thank you!
Loving your videos, brilliant for someone like me, I’m teaching my self to plaster by doing the rooms and ceilings in our house. Great teacher thank you..
Thank you so much and well done. I hope you're enjoying the process my friend 👍
just started plastering didnt know any of this awesome ta
About fixing the existing angle you might use stapler .. as well.. fast clean no silicons or whatever in the walls
I've got a whole house to replaster and watched a few 'how to plaster' videos. I wish I hadnt wasted my time on them now that I've watched yours haha. Thanks for the time and effort you've put in 👍 subbed.
hi blaine ,love watching your content and the stapler trick for the beads for me has been a game changer,so simple but saves so much hassle. id like to give you a tip in return. if you ever find the need to cut of expanding foam that has become proud, use a hacksaw blade and put electrical tape round one half to stop it cutting your fingers. makes a clean cut and doesnt tear it up like other saws do. keep up the great work pal.
What we use for the corner beads and style trims is a paslode pin gun I know there expensive but they save so time and they don’t deform the bead or trim shape when u shoot them on
Brilliant video. Did a 2 week plastering course in stoke a few months ago which was great, ever since ive been trying to find a video to replicate how they taught it, but couldnt, stumbled on this today and its pretty much exactly how they taught it. Great recap thanks. Only difference was they use plasiflex and then the flexitrowel to finish, so different order at the end, that just personal preference is it?
I use car body filler for setting beads and held in place with masking tape, set solid in 10 -15 mins then peel off tape and skim.
Hi Blaine instead of using a brush doing pva I fine that a paint roller is better for pva you cover the walls quickly plus it saves you brush from cleaning it
You also get a more even coat with fewer runs and are less likely to miss bits.
Yes, I use WAGO's too, to seal off the socket/light fittings.
Hi Blaine 👋 I put some beads on with a hot glue gun as I didn't have anything else to hand and it worked really well, thanks for the great work 👍
If it works mate...good stuff!! Thanks for sharing 👍
Very helpful tips, particularly about applying PVA on older plasterboard. Only thing I'm not sure if you can leave PVA to dry till the next and skim plaster then, or needs to be done soon after it has become tacky or touch dry the same day...would appreciate any more tips👍
On older p/b's, pva then skim when its dry, at least 2 hours.
I am glad you said about applying the PVA to old board. The ceiling I am doing this week unfortunately did have wall paper on the plaster board. It has been removed but I would like to think the plaster board soaked all the water out of the wall paper paste. What is the best approach if the board has old paper on it? Love your videos 👍
Top vid. Cheers 👍
Thank you mate!
Awesome vid as usual. Please keep it up mate you're a great resource for those of us new in the industry 👍😁
Thank you mate, I really appreciate that!! Cheers pal 👍
doing a stairs after watching ur vids opened a few month old multi finish wanted to see what happens when its passed it sell by date it set within 10 mins
MEGASTIK is awesome! It's like non expanding expanding foam.. 😄
That's the one pal. Cheers matey 👍
My only comment as a spread, i would'nt take sockets off because of public liability, not sure what would happen (insurance wise) if something went wrong, plastic bag usually works ok.
Great blog. Maybe you could do a vlog on the different between bonding and hardwall. Where and when to use. Also why some plasterer use bonding and some hardwall. I seem to use hardwall alot now. Great vlog a Pleasure to watch
Thank you so much mate - I really appreciate that and I'll look into that suggestion. Good shout! Thank you very much for watching 👍
Thanks for the soundbloc part pal got mine coming next week 😉 Stef
Perfect mate! That will help massively 👍
Perfect mate! That will help massively 👍
Perfect mate! That will help massively 👍
Thank you great video. Just another tip to the audience, if you look in the back of the socket there will be clips to put the securing screws in...that way you don't lose them : )
Ohhhh good shout!! I like that one - thank you so much pal 👍
Ohhhh good shout!! I like that one - thank you so much pal 👍
Can you do a basic video of how to get plaster off the hawk because out of all the stages that’s what I mess up on most making a mess on the floor 😂
Don't know if it's been said but anywhere you apply the bonding you'll have to come back and PVA if your coming back another day. Due to the suction. it is a good idea though if you've got the time. Multi tends to hang and sag when your going thicker. Literally any gap that can be prefilled will help!
Exactly that. Cheers pal ...thanks for sharing 👍
can you do a video about plastering in thin channels like side of a doo tor maybe 2 inches ..and how to get it level...also how to plaster in between dado rail and cornices when trowel is just too long.
Always keep some knives around for tight spaces or little tweaks in pesky corners... You can always just whack some plaster with the trowel and then nicely finish it with a knife if the spot is unconfortable ✌ You can also set the plaster with a paintbrush in those 2 inch wide spots. Put a bit of plaster in a cup and adjust the consistency if needed and spread it evenly, wait like 20 minutes, moisten it a bit with some water using the paintbrush and then use the side of a knife to make it nice and smooth ✌
A pipe and margin trowels are what you need. OX tools do them.
Great video Blaine
Cheers mate!!
@@PlasteringForBeginners
I’m going to attempt doing my box room. Just in process of preparing it 👍
Good video mate but a paint roller in a pva Bucket makes life much easier and saves time 😀
yes, and improvise a splash guard from a lengthways cut 2L coke bottle
Great video. Thanks for his. Really liking the channel
Cheers pal...I really appreciate that 👍
At 2:50 the "tug test" to make sure the Wago is on tight; a few electricians could do well to remember that one. On a new build a decent sparks should set the cables back into the box out of your way. The edge on a well used trowel is like a razor and nicks our cable without showing a mark. Finally. you can buy a small hand tool to clean the socket box threads which makes electrical second fix a little easier. Thanks again from the sparks.
Hi, great channel. I have a house with no cavities. It is all finished to a high quality with plastering but I’m considering lining the exterior walls with insulation boards. If I did, would it be ok to fix them straight to the existing finished walls with an adhesive such as pink grip?
Brilliant video as usual and great advice given. I have a question - have you had much experience skimming moisture resistant plasterboard, the green stuff? I've heard comments before from others about using blue grit primer and the likes before applying finish plaster. But was wondering if I could use a thin coat of bonding plaster straight onto the boards and then follow up with 2 coats of multifinish? I am in the process of putting up a ceiling in my garage, and whilst there isn't a particular issue with dampness, the garage is unheated so does get quite cold as you can imagine, so not sure how well standard boards would hold up long term.
Try Pinkgrip Blaine, it doesnt skin over like Gripfill does. Good stuff for setting external beads too 👍🏻
Good shout pal - I'll try that one! I'll be honest I haven't used it so I'll look forward to that!!
What are your thoughts on stapling on beads?
good stuff
I’ve just started a 4 bed detached house that’s had a full re wire,the first day I used British gypsum bonding and was finding towards the end of using all the bonding up it was going solid in my bucket and on my tools,my tip if your doing lots of chases is to use the make good bonding as it lasts up to 3 times longer in the bucket I have found and even when it does start going off it still cleans out much easier than gypsum bonding 👍
Shove some multifinish in it stops the bonding clinging to the bucket
@@alfamad155 thanks il try that 👍
I'll give both suggestions a go - thank you so much for sharing. We're still learning 👍
Hello Blaine, I have just noticed you say the sound block board is only tapered but if you install the board the opposite way round you will get straight/flush edges. Let me know what you think.
I use spray adhesive to stick the scrim tape on. I spray each part that wants taping, leave it a few minutes so it tacks up. Then stick my scrim on. As I find the tape is never as sticky as it should be
Try putting scrim on rad first if it's cold, cheap scrim isn't sticky.
@@GSDhandler1 i find orange scrim is really sticky, okj its a bit dearer but its the best lol, keep up the good work, from another plasterer 25 years counting to long lol.
Grear Video thanks, any tips for skimming onto tile backer board versus plasterboard?
I'll be honest pal I've never done it so I couldn't say. Try PVA and see if it works but if not possible Bond it beforehand 👍
I’ve used the acoustic board on a stud wall and filled the cavities between studs with insulation and you still get transference of sound bad enough so you can hear conversations in the next room. The studs need to have acoustic strips applied. Dealing with sound you’re dealing with vibration and plasterboard to wood still transfers that vibration.
Think your meant to use acoustic track then 2 layers of soundboard with acoustic silicone between each layer
@@rozzer666 that’s a proper job!
Exactly that Rozzer. It's the only way to reduce the vibrations but it's never perfect. Sound travels through all mediums regardless of your levels of diffusion. It just helps
It's best to have 50mm insulation. This will still provide a gap between the plasterboard which offers a bit of diffusion between each layer.
@@PlasteringForBeginners I’m building a ‘garden room’ come summer and I’ve got hold of these 4’ x 4’ x 6” insulation boards which are so dense you find it difficult to carry on your own. They also have a renderable surface one side. I’m going to build a stud work frame and then clad the frame externally by fixing these slabs of insulation to the frame with those insulation fixings. Do the roof and floor too so you effectively have a box of 6’ thick, really dense insulation. Silicone render the sides and put a marine ply and rubber flat roof on it. Then I’m going to become a Rock Star!
Hey mate can I have a link for the 3 way isolater thing your using thanks 🙏🏼
Great tips as usual mate. I find Pinkgrip superior to Gripfill tho. Slightly stronger and cures a lot faster.
I struggle with both, I’ve used all sorts but the grip stuff never works for me, I certainly use more than he does and put it straight on the bead so there’s two cock ups straight away! Love this guys videos keep them coming mate really enjoy learning from a master
@@tomgriffiths6380 I was meaning from a general construction standpoint. Blaine is right tho mate when using grab adhesive for bead don't use too much. The squeeze through bits are nightmare come finishing trowel up time.
Thanks for this vid. Can I add to your tips?
1. soft broom in painters scuttle for faster PVA coverage
2. dampen edges of plasterboard patch edge for better foam bonding, nail a temporary batten across the patched hole while it sets, this allows your board to be perfectly flush without worring about the foam pushing it out.
3. cram a rectangle of cardboard in your removed socket backbox to reduce plaster buildup in there which otherwise may get on the painters roller, keeps the backbox clear for getting the wires out easier
Great suggestions. Cheers matey - I'm sure everyone will find that useful so thank you 👍
No need for bonding I would just fill the holes and cover the skyrim with my first hawk of skim, then just skim as normal. Works a treat if the holes are not too deep.
Good shout - cheers pal 👍
Haha Skyrim instead of scrim... that’s the best typo ever 🤣🤣
Call tips mate 👍👍
Top video mate. Love the content you push out.
I just also watched your speed skim comparison video. Think I'll be getting the refina 600mm (the spaces I need to sort are not too big). However when I checked online I can't easily find the one that you were using? Only the one handle ones. Do you have a referral link for the 600mm refina one you used mate?
Bonding is a ship product for old houses downstairs soaks up like a sponge when gets wet and causes damp problems
Another great video! Do you ever tape and joint fill or are you 100% plasterer?!
I don't do it mate - I had a chance when I worked in Australia but decided against it so I've never done it since. It's not for me pal!
Hi Blanie, Some great tricks there that I will use in the future .....video comes across very well 👍 Hope the baby not keeping you up all night lol
Thank you Paul, I really appreciate that my friend! Haha she is actually but we're getting through it 🤣
Do you let down your PVA with water? When would you use bluegrit rather than PVA?
Water your pva down 3 parts water to 1 part pva mate, ive used blue grit on nearly every type of surface now so there is not really a wrong or a right time, but what i will say is you get less coverage per bag on blue grit as it takes more skim to achieve your first coat buddy.
Regarding electric boxes; Agreed this can be a real pain especially in the kitchen where you could have as many as 10 sockets or more to plaster around? Though whilst your idea looks to be the correct way. Sadly most jobs I price will not cover me for 2 hrs 'Extra Work' farting around with boxes in this manner! Maybe someone could invent a temporary plastic cover that U can just clip over the socket in a convenient and safe way? This would isolate any risk of a shock but also protect the face of the socket!
You would bury the sockets in your plaster if you were to leave them on the wall.
@@wiktoriaslominska8078 Absolutely NOT. All I do is release them fully from the socket and carefully plaster around. By doing it this way you can also carefully clean out any debris that might get caught inside the socket! I've been plastering now for 36 yrs; Have tried ALL and Every option. This works well for me and we still work on a fine line of quantifying time to the work. This means that if you mess around too long with new ideas and concepts you will 'Not Earn'!, and if you keep doing this you will ultimately fail your business!
👍👍👍 Blaine
Hey Blaine, one thing I wish I'd known was not to be scared of removing rads. Dereton33 and others have good videos on how to do this properly. Like with everything else, some prep and practice is required but it makes a hell of a difference both in terms on finish and effort. Also looks much more professional.
Once the rads off, remove the brackets too (minding if it's the wide or narrow edge that's touching the wall) and put back your screws in the existing plugs in the wall, just leave them proud so your trowel can glide over them. When you're done with the final trowel unscrew them slightly so they're easy to find when the time comes to put the rad back on. You can put it back on the same day.
And like someone else has said, I think I'll be using mitre glue for the beads as it bonds instantaneously and there's just no more hassle.
All good points here - thank you very much for sharing! I'll be honest, I don't touch anything that involves water so I leave the rads to someone else but your suggestions sound bang on!
Thank you for the comment and thank you for watching. I really appreciate it. Cheers pal 👍
That’s interesting. Personally I wouldn’t use mitre bond, because it bonds straightaway, with no chance to move it. What if you need to move the bead to make it more plumb etc once you’ve offered it up to the wall. I tend to use a bead of adhesive (often gripfill) or even plasterboard adhesive just to give some flexibility in getting the position right before it sets. It still sets quick enough.
@@kevinjackson5191 I've used grab adhesives precisely for the reason you mentioned. And will still use it if I feel the bead may need readjusting.
But 9 times out of 10 you can check with your level prior to fixing it permanently. Mitre bond grabs instantly but you can also tear it off and put back on if you need to. No method is ideal for every scenario.
So when you say plaster in this video do you mean drywall/sheetrock(gypsum based)? Are these walls.actually plaster(lime based)?
Use scrim tape on the beads if you have nothing else to hand
Hi blaine,
I am a beginner plasterer. Would you recommend pva over all surfaces including new plaster boards to help me with time to get the product on the wall. Will it help prevent the wall sucking the life out of my plaster. Also you didn’t cover the ratio to mix pva what do you recommend and also is there a particular brand you like to use?
Thanks
Lee
Hi mate. Great hearing from you! To be honest PVA won't help on New board - you'd still have the same amount of plastering time. But definately PVA everything else... good strong 3:1 mix (3 water: 1 PVA)
I like Evostick. Bit more expensive but worth it in my eyes! Hope this helps my friend and happy New year!
Amazing as usual Blaine. God I’ve missed watching your vids.
With the adding a corner bead to an existing corner, what if the existing corner already has a corner bead beneath it? Can you still at the new one on top to prepare for replastering?
Great having you back mate!! Thank you for watching. It's not a problem as long as the original best isn't protruding to far. If not you're all good my friend 👍
stick beads on with plaster as you go, always use a roller for pva, and there's no need for bonding can all be done with multi
Multifinish shouldn’t be used for anything 3-4mm deep
@@hughespaintingdecorating3348 oh really
@@terry4144 yes mate
@@hughespaintingdecorating3348 you are wrong stick to painting
@@dannyboy1066 never had problems done hundreds
Do a video on knocking in trowels. If like me the majority of your work is slim, dot and dab and patch work it takes forever to knock a trowel in.
Do a few days scratch coating sand and cement. Brakes in a trowl really well it rounds the corner s and keens the trowl edge..
Hi grate videos and full of helpful advice.
!!Important!!
I just want to point out though the way go switches you must use one switch per wire! Even if you have x3 wires and x3 switch connectors!!!!! No matter if it’s a double, triple, quad etc, these carry the current from the existing wire to the other switches on that block! If this makes sense?
Hi
I am a plasterer in Ireland
Love your videos i when reskimming old painted ceiling and not plastering walls adjoining ceiling is there a need to scrim at edges or not
I do but it means I then have to Sheetrock approx 100 mm all around where scrim is on existing good walls a real pain
Is scrim needed or do you just plaster to wall edges no scrim
Thanks
Willie
In my experience it is best practice to scrim and bring skim down.
However generally speaking I won’t skrim the corner and simply cualk the arris or better yet explain to the customer that they will need to cualk it when they decorate when they paint it
@@amateurvegan2636 yes as a painter I moan at the client for me having to fix his bad job by filling over his scrim tape on the painted adjacent wall. better to use foam in the corner gap before plastering if its a stud wall, or caulk it if solid
@@utubeape
Yeah foam can definitely help
What are the socket wire connectors called?
They're called Waygo's pal 👍
love the tips and vidz but a tip for yourself when makin vidz ...you really need a microphone they make helluva difference to yur sound its echoey hard to hear sometimes theyre pretty cheap and pretty good nice one
If you're skimming a newly boarded ceiling but leaving the walls as they are, how can you scrim the edges without there being any tape showing? Do you just put the tape as close to the wall as possible without it showing?
That's your best bet matey. It's the only way really 👍
For beads I use mitre bond. For holes I use bonding and half-time and scrim.
Good shout mate. Cheers pal!
@@PlasteringForBeginners sometimes if it’s electrical chases I used skim and scrim as I go and skim the whole wall
Hi Blaine
My bosses house is going well. Although he had all the radiators put on so had to take them all off for plastering. Just wondered if you are still sponge floating? I tried both methods and didn’t see a massive difference. I found sponge floating tool slightly longer?
I would protect the threads on the lugs of the back box. leecy tape or masking tape.
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I also use WAGO's to maintain continuity (and the lights!) but I also use blank facias for sockets/switches so the WAGO connectors are blanked off inside the surface. I also wrap the WAGO's in a bag as an added safety measure.
Use mitre glue for the angled beads 👍
Or clear silicone 👍
@@nathankowlesssr1544 no never silicone, it interferes with the adhesion of anything waterbased
Another great video mate, how long once you applied the bonding to the joints can you skim over it?? Thanks.
I'd leave it an hour mate, until you can't make a dent with your finger. Other than that, wait til the next day and PVA the bonding before laying on. Or, as I do it, fill your joints with skim first before applying 2 coats of multi 👍🏻
@@scott2386 thanks Scott.
Exactly that Scott - couldn't have said it better myself 👍
@@keithdouglas9848 no worries mate
@@PlasteringForBeginners 👊🏻👌🏻 keep up the good work pal
is that neat pva or 50 % 50%?
Quality vid as usual mate! Are you using your phone camera lately? as I'm noticing a nice crisp finish to your footage. Cheers, Eric
Hello mate!! How's it going, great hearing from you. No mate, my phone is rubbish - it would look like Pacman quality if I used that ha! I just use my GoPro pal 👍
Hope you're well my friend 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners 😂Thanks mate!
Surely the electric sockets shouldn't be on prior to plastering it's not up to the plasterer to sort that out especially on price?
I have timber above and to the side of my windows at the top do you put bonding on the timber ?
If not what do you put on the timber
Steve Sibson screw plasterboard to it if there is room (thickness)or use a wire mesh for the bonding to stick to👍🏻
I’m pretty sure bonding is designed for low suction non keyed substrates. It can be applied to fresh plasterboard though.
Hardwall is for higher suction masonry backgrounds.
Also I may be mistaken because I use a different type of connection block but you can put the earth live and neutral into one block as long as it’s separate terminals?
Good tip with the acoustic board of your sticking them, try using foam if it’s a small area. Works fine as long as you brace them and helps insulate further.
If your fitting them to studs you can apply an acoustic sealant to the studs before fixing which increases there effectiveness by ALOT.
I’ve tried fixing corner beads with grip fill as well as ct1, foam and other adhesives. Personally for me, I usually stick to bonding
Hello i need an adivice a need to plaster a wall (not bricks) is good to use sand and cement only and how much i need to put ?
If it's an existing wall that's already been plastered then I would just use a finish plaster like British Gypsum Multi Finish. That's the best thing pal. Good luck 🤞
For inner corners as at 13;10, would using paper cornering tape be okay to use also ?
Not ideal for multifinish, proper galvinield corner beads are what you want. I think they may get too wet during the process and fail?
Do you need to pva over bonding?
If it’s completely dry then yes
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Warning Health & Safety, never leave a life circuit unattended even with Wago's, children have a way of finding them .. It goes against regs as well peepso
Sticks like shit 'Turbo' for beads. Skimmable in 20 minutes. Never had a problem or a call back 👌
That sounds good - I’ll look into it! Cheers pal
Good video. But the title should be "6 Tips I wish I HAD known as a beginner". You need the past perfect here after I wish.
Wouldn’t get you in to plaster my drywalls lol 🤦🏽♂️
Bonding is medium to low suction I think you had a slip of the tongue bonding hates high suction and will crack and won’t stick well if it encounters high suction
Not if you scrim it while wet
Yeah, sorry mate - I must have slipped up on the wording. You are completely right though and thank you for correcting me. Cheers pal 👍
@@alfamad155 yes it might not crack but it ain’t sticking if suction is too high
In Italy the plaster is white, sometimes creamy. Why in Britain is Brown?
It's just the material that's mined here in the UK. It's just the colour of the Gypsum.
Hello mate just had a old chimney removed in my bathroom and it has been plastered with hardwall but it absolutely stinks of ammonia
Will this smell go
Ps can you do a boarding and plastering under a stairwell video please
Haha yeah unfortunately Hardwall smells awful! It goes as soon as it's skimmed mate. Good shout - I'll look into it pal 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners thank you
Smell should be gone once its fully dry and skimmed over.
Hey Blaine
In London I'm finding it hard to get any plasterers who would want someone to help them, even if they paid me nothing.
Done a plastering course in Nov and done a load of plastering including rendering since got all the tools, but no one wants a hand. Do plasterers prefer to work on their own or just don't need any help?
Thanks go your vids, I use bonding for beads usually.
@@Berry-fr5wj thanks mate. Its not a full time job/career for me but just want to get the experience. Happy to help anyone who has a large ceiling to do or a big hit, I've had a couple of lazy labourers myself, need them to clean up or do something whilst I am flattening.
Just finding that no one gives me the time of day, a couple of calls I've had but that's it. Looking for jobs myself now.
You just have to keep trying mate. It's bloody tough but you will eventually find someone who's willing to work you. You just have to keep working at it my friend 👍
If you don't know what you doing, take a picture of your socks when you open it
Exactly that 👍
What would you say is the average salary of a plasterer these days ?
120-180 a day depending on skill experience
Second fix electrics shouldn't be on snip cables off lol
the prices for the tee shirts??? your a plasterer already a millionaire!! disappointed
All you need to do to improve is use 32 amp wago instead of ones for the light circuit, 👍
The Wagos used in the video are perfectly fine for ring main applications, and a great suggestion by Blaine.
Are you using makeup?
Haha no matey but I'll take that as a compliment 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners f