As a absolute beginner i was so glad to stumble onto this video and find out about knauf! Ive recently added architrave to all the plain door ways and this helped doing the inside and leveling out the wall. Thanks!!
Good product and tutorial Blaine. I'm a painter and decorator and when I need to straighten and flatten old walls, or after wall paper stripping I use Knauf fill and finish light... premixed in the tub. I just trowel it on and let dry then sand. A large tub cost around £40ish in the UK and covers a lot of square metres (depending on how bad the walls are and if 2 coats required etc) I will have a go with the product in the tutorial on any upcoming projects and see how it goes. Thanks for another great tutorial.
@@JayneO-qo1oi Hi, I haven't looked for the product used in the vid so don't know if it's available in the UK. The Knauf fill and sand is available in most DIY places.. it's mainly used for tape and jointing. I'm sure you can get it at most building suppliers like Jewsons etc.. I get mine from a local DIY store. It does exactly the same as the product Blaine used in the vid. If this is what you're referring to just ask for tape and jointing filler at a builders supplies. Hope this helps.
@@JayneO-qo1oi If you're a novice and never done it before just make sure the surface is clean and give it a scrape and sand first... you can apply the filler over large surfaces with a caulking blade or trowel easily. Just put an even fill no more than 5 mil or so all over and don't worry about trowel or blade lines as these will sand out when dry. Use 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood or a hand sander for best results. Good luck.
@@JayneO-qo1oi If you're painting the wall afterwards use a water based emulsion thinned down with water to seal the wall.. don't use a vinyl matt/vinyl silk etc as it could peel off. You can then use any kind of paint for top coats.
finally someone is using this system, white plaster on gypsum. I have been doing it for a year, works perfect and save me a lot of time. I dont need to flat the gypsum layer anymore. But I will put pva on gypsum first, have experienced delamination on new finish.
@@Matt-yl2ok Just like plastering the second coat of gypsum, if the first coat is just set after 2-3 hrs, I apply directly. If apply it on the next day, I pva the gypsum first. The down side is, this stuff is much more expensive.
This looks like it might suit me when doing ceilings, which as a diyer I really struggle with, even really small ones. I just run out of time. I guess the first coat gets over joints and tape fine, then the second finishes off. Very interesting.
At the beginning you are showing a bag of the product, but when you are demonstrating you are using ready mixed ... is there a difference other than the obvious, also when can't you use the product as you mentioned at the beginning. Great demo thanks.
Commonly used in rest of the world. I find it way better and consistent in victorian properties. Multifinish cracks, blisters and is more unpredictable even on well primed old walls. While this compound I can plaster big room in one day no problem and if it blisters I can fix it way easier. Best part I can usually get to sanding (mirka sander and dust extractor) and painting next day.
Don't you need two coats and then sanding? That adds up to 3 days...so how can you do it in just two? What am I missing here? Any other tips would be much appreciated. Thanks for your help 🙂
16:25 I like to go over the wall with a flashlight in one hand and a flexible putty knife or taping knife in the other, though I have to keep a second knife on hand keep the one I'm using clean and minimally loaded. This method is great for those who don't have time to learn how to plaster, or those like me who aren't really that comfortable with the timing of real plaster. I'd only use the real thing for a wall with imperfections too big for this method to easily fill. But I can see why pros who want to get in and out in one day prefer the real thing.
Very true mate - its great as an alternative but plaster is superior in my option. But I love showing the options all the same. Thanks for watching pal 👍
Good video but can add few things. This method is great for new straight walls, plasterboard. Can be done like plaster - wet on wet after 1.5-2Hrs and polymer skims could be sponge flattened without sanding. When you sand wall then surface is dead flat,like glass much better finish than plaster. Other thing, this stuff dry quickly, should be dry for sanding and painting next day.
Just purchased a 1950's brick house. removed lining paper and wallpaper. Sanded down the walls using 80 grit. Brushed off the dust and the walls still feel quiet rough in certain areas. Is it best to use ready mixed plaster for a DIY beginner or use this stuff ? I plan on painting after - matt This looks like an easy skim coat to use. Just that it takes 3 days to do on AVG - which I dont mind
Great video. Do you know if I can do this in a wall that used to have wallpaper on it? I wanted to paint a wall and while sanding I realised it had wallpaper underneath and beneath that a multi finished wall with multiple cracks. I am so confused, i wanted to do some painting and now I need to be a tradesperson
Being doing a similar thing with gyproc easy fill 60 using a trowel to smooth out, then sand with orbital sander connected to a industrial type vacuum. Great video by the way.
this is insane! You already have the time involved with the drywall process and now your adding 3 more days skimming? All this for a finish I can achieve with with tight coats with drywall mud faster, applied and finished with knife or trowel. On commercial jobs I use a big airless with a big, wide tip and sand with fine grit. I have been a drywall/plasterer for 47yrs, now retired
Hi, this is great. I have an old victorian property and don't fancy gypsum plaster over lathe and plaster as it cracks and the thickness looks odd against the period features.
Is this not very similar to thistle filler finish compound? I was very nervous plastering my chimney breast and had some thistle powered filler and used it like it was plaster, was way easier to work with smoothed out really nicely dried far quicker and any slight user error could be sanded easily. Granted I wouldn’t want to do a whole room with it but in my case I was doing above a picture rail and it worked out perfect. Side note thanks to your videos I got results I probably wouldn’t have done otherwise.
If you drill to put a plug/screw will it be okay and not crack around the hole? If it needs a proper plaster skim further down the line, will the plaster skim be okay on top?
Hi mate..ive never done any kind of plastering ever...ive just took off my wallpaper and theres pink plaster come off with it in 4mm patches on all 4 walls.. would this product do the job to skim a full room? And should i fill the blown plaster first before the skim? Great video mate,very informative
What’s the thickness consistency of this compared to jointing compound? I used a thin coat of jointing compound on an old skimmed chimney and got excellent results but it was a pain as the compound was thick.
Hello, I wanted to do a introductory plastering course with Able Skills. Im a newly qualified painter and decorator, is plastering good for existing walls or is it just for dray wall. Would this be better for existing walls that might be in ok to bad condition but not in need of full plastering? Also want to a tiling course, is either plastering or this suitable to do before tiling? Thanks for the video
Ok what you think about using pre made skim coat like Gyproc Easifiller Finish, i was about to skim coat a wall , but that Venetian Plaster video got me thinking wow
We used trowels and jointing knives to apply this stuff on narrow reveals where the spray fan was too big. Worked good. Still think traditional plaster is superior, for residential projects anyway.
Excellent video. I also heard its breathable which might be useful in older houses. On their website they said they also have a backing plaster so you can put it onto brick walls, don't know if you have tried that or could maybe one day do another video? Thanks for your very helpful videos
That's exactly why I used it on the last job. It was an old victorian house and it just needed a re-skim. So for this job, it was perfect!! Because it was just an over skim the product worked perfectly and the walls could breath. Like you say, Gypsum would have been the worst thing to use. I've tried the backing product and I'll be honest, It's not great. No real thickness. Not worth it pal
@@PlasteringForBeginners ah great stuff, thanks for letting me know about that. Mine has alot of old lime plastered walls that needs reskimming so I will give that a go. Some walls need taking back to the brick, so maybe that Weber one coat render from your other videos might be good as that's supposedly breathable aswell. Hopefully these new products will be helpful on the huge Victorian housing stock in the UK as they can suffer from damp issues Cheers
Great vid. Blaine, will this work on walls where wallpaper has been taken off ? I've bought a 1930's house and the wallpaper is a thick textured paper. I'm guessing the plaster underneath won't be great. Will this product be good ?
Can this be used with corner/stop beads - have a couple of small walls that have external corners and another where we want to leave some exposed brickwork.. Appreciate any advice..
I used a similar Knauff product (pro roll I think) to do my hallway and stairs. The sanding stage was a nightmare, but my biggest issue is its hardness. Even after setting it is really soft and easily dented. I now use it for ceilings only because of this.
It’s stronger than Pro-Roll to be honest. It sets quite hard once it’s fully cured but I must admit that plaster is stronger. But yeah…I agree with what you said there 😉
Try use polymer type skim like Atlas GTA or Knauf fill & finish blue also you can use silicon base primer after sanding, it gives more strength to skim.
@@okafka5446 Don't know how hard is Knauf airless but Atlas GTA have good balance between hardness and sanding. About primer, any silicon or acrylic should be good, Atlas uni grunt or Ceresit CT17. Diluted PVA or paint -miscoat are homemade primers not comparable to proper ones, they bond dust but not penetrate surface, wall, bricks, plaster, paint etc.
Really would love to know how breathable it is. It could be a great product for DIYers who need to plaster over existing lime plaster. It would remove the pain of trying to find a plasterer who is willing to work with lime.
Roger Bisby did a demo of it some years ago. He showed it being sprayed on rather then using a roller. Only thing I can say it's good for is for plasterboarded walls (which is what the Yanks use) and that it provides a nice base for painting walls.
It's actually more work on plasterboard because you have to prefill the joints beforehand - that's what put me off to be honest. But It's rapid if you spray it. Very fast!!
@@PlasteringForBeginners I think is less physical effort than plaster even if you need to do joints and much faster application. You should do both coats with long skim knife in few moves, don't need trowel and second coat wet on wet. In theory: if you get whole, 3 bed house in plasterboard's, 2-3 people team could, joint, skim, sand and paint in no more than a week.
Thank you for the heads up on this product Blain. Can I ask a question which may be stupid but can I put the compound straight on to plasterboard instead of plaster? I have no experience of plastering etc so asking as a newbie. Thanks
Very informative video! We are removing a dropped ceiling in our Victorian and the plaster ceiling still has the original thick carboard like wallpaper. It is bringing the skim coat of plaster off with it. So far ceiling appears in good shape except for a few small cracks that do not appear deep. Could this be the solution?
Is this just for plasterboard? I have brick walls with plaster etc. I've removed years of wallpaper and paint to find the walls aren't smooth so I'm looking for a solution to fix it?
Hi Blaine. Great video as always! Is it possible to scrim tape any cracks or are the coats too thin so the tape would show thru the finish coat? Cheers Fella!
That stuff looks fantastic actually. Can I use it instead of tape and joint on new plasterboard? Probably not but I'm asking anyway in case it saves me time!
This is the problem. You still need one coat of filler and tape on the joints…that’s what killed this system for me on plasterboard. I like it on existing boards but didn’t like this aspect on plasterboard
We all use it all over Europe so it's a dream to work with and we trowel it and than sand it and paint it ...
As a absolute beginner i was so glad to stumble onto this video and find out about knauf! Ive recently added architrave to all the plain door ways and this helped doing the inside and leveling out the wall. Thanks!!
I like these videos where you show alternative products. Keep em coming 👍
Thank you! Will do! I appreciate the feedback 👍
Good product and tutorial Blaine.
I'm a painter and decorator and when I need to straighten and flatten old walls, or after wall paper stripping I use Knauf fill and finish light... premixed in the tub. I just trowel it on and let dry then sand.
A large tub cost around £40ish in the UK and covers a lot of square metres (depending on how bad the walls are and if 2 coats required etc)
I will have a go with the product in the tutorial on any upcoming projects and see how it goes.
Thanks for another great tutorial.
Hello, have you found this very same product in the UK? I have been unsuccessful in my googling 😅
@@JayneO-qo1oi Hi, I haven't looked for the product used in the vid so don't know if it's available in the UK. The Knauf fill and sand is available in most DIY places.. it's mainly used for tape and jointing. I'm sure you can get it at most building suppliers like Jewsons etc.. I get mine from a local DIY store. It does exactly the same as the product Blaine used in the vid. If this is what you're referring to just ask for tape and jointing filler at a builders supplies. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the reply (: I'll be giving that a go!
@@JayneO-qo1oi If you're a novice and never done it before just make sure the surface is clean and give it a scrape and sand first... you can apply the filler over large surfaces with a caulking blade or trowel easily. Just put an even fill no more than 5 mil or so all over and don't worry about trowel or blade lines as these will sand out when dry. Use 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood or a hand sander for best results. Good luck.
@@JayneO-qo1oi If you're painting the wall afterwards use a water based emulsion thinned down with water to seal the wall.. don't use a vinyl matt/vinyl silk etc as it could peel off. You can then use any kind of paint for top coats.
This was a great tutorial. Got some stripped walls that just needed a thin skim coat. This looks like a great solution. Cheers
Hey, thanks for putting this video together. I have just started learning all this stuff and I have found your video very helpful.
finally someone is using this system, white plaster on gypsum. I have been doing it for a year, works perfect and save me a lot of time. I dont need to flat the gypsum layer anymore. But I will put pva on gypsum first, have experienced delamination on new finish.
Do you let the gypsum fully dry before skimming over with this stuff? Interesting idea .. 🧐 saves allot of troweling up I guess
Thanks for sharing matey! Great input 👍
@@Matt-yl2ok Just like plastering the second coat of gypsum, if the first coat is just set after 2-3 hrs, I apply directly. If apply it on the next day, I pva the gypsum first. The down side is, this stuff is much more expensive.
@@Go2Dragon what product do you use? I can't find the Knauf anywhere
Best to use with this some silicone based wall primer on plaster or painted wall also need to be primed after sanding.
This looks like it might suit me when doing ceilings, which as a diyer I really struggle with, even really small ones. I just run out of time. I guess the first coat gets over joints and tape fine, then the second finishes off. Very interesting.
At the beginning you are showing a bag of the product, but when you are demonstrating you are using ready mixed ... is there a difference other than the obvious, also when can't you use the product as you mentioned at the beginning. Great demo thanks.
Commonly used in rest of the world. I find it way better and consistent in victorian properties. Multifinish cracks, blisters and is more unpredictable even on well primed old walls. While this compound I can plaster big room in one day no problem and if it blisters I can fix it way easier. Best part I can usually get to sanding (mirka sander and dust extractor) and painting next day.
Don't you need two coats and then sanding? That adds up to 3 days...so how can you do it in just two? What am I missing here? Any other tips would be much appreciated. Thanks for your help 🙂
Where do you buy this product? Grateful for a link if you have it. Thanks.
Nice one it seems like a good product, I could have done with this on my last painting job following a so called plasterer!
16:25 I like to go over the wall with a flashlight in one hand and a flexible putty knife or taping knife in the other, though I have to keep a second knife on hand keep the one I'm using clean and minimally loaded. This method is great for those who don't have time to learn how to plaster, or those like me who aren't really that comfortable with the timing of real plaster. I'd only use the real thing for a wall with imperfections too big for this method to easily fill. But I can see why pros who want to get in and out in one day prefer the real thing.
Very true mate - its great as an alternative but plaster is superior in my option. But I love showing the options all the same. Thanks for watching pal 👍
You are a born instructor. Thanks v much 👍
Good video but can add few things. This method is great for new straight walls, plasterboard. Can be done like plaster - wet on wet after 1.5-2Hrs and polymer skims could be sponge flattened without sanding. When you sand wall then surface is dead flat,like glass much better finish than plaster. Other thing, this stuff dry quickly, should be dry for sanding and painting next day.
Hello, which sponge would you recommend for this material? Thanks.
Just purchased a 1950's brick house. removed lining paper and wallpaper. Sanded down the walls using 80 grit. Brushed off the dust and the walls still feel quiet rough in certain areas. Is it best to use ready mixed plaster for a DIY beginner or use this stuff ? I plan on painting after - matt
This looks like an easy skim coat to use. Just that it takes 3 days to do on AVG - which I dont mind
Great video. Do you know if I can do this in a wall that used to have wallpaper on it? I wanted to paint a wall and while sanding I realised it had wallpaper underneath and beneath that a multi finished wall with multiple cracks. I am so confused, i wanted to do some painting and now I need to be a tradesperson
Hello there (: Unfortunately, this is my current predicament... May I ask how you preceeded?
Watched a few of your videos. You are a good communicator and teacher . What trowel do you prefer for this and wet plaster , cheers
Being doing a similar thing with gyproc easy fill 60 using a trowel to smooth out, then sand with orbital sander connected to a industrial type vacuum. Great video by the way.
Great idea! Thanks matey
No worries, and thanks for all your videos over the months, I have gone from being a crap plasterer to a fair plasterer all thanks to you.
this is insane! You already have the time involved with the drywall process and now your adding 3 more days skimming? All this for a finish I can achieve with with tight coats
with drywall mud faster, applied and finished with knife or trowel. On commercial jobs I use a big airless with a big, wide tip and sand with fine grit. I have been a drywall/plasterer
for 47yrs, now retired
When you apply with a roller, how do you get it right up to the edges, do you cut in with a brush?
Thank you Blaine. Can i use this on Plasterboard? Will it go over the beading on the corner joins ???
Yes but plastic beading with mesh
Can you use this over old paint on a wall. Do I need to prep the wall first with something like PVA to seal the old paint?
can u skim coat on painted popcorn wall? or do u need to prep it with sanding or priming with somehting?
Can this be applied direct to a painted internal wall?
Hi, this is great. I have an old victorian property and don't fancy gypsum plaster over lathe and plaster as it cracks and the thickness looks odd against the period features.
looks great iv been watching your videos now for a long time. also learnt a lot from them. thank you
Thank you for watching my friend! I really appreciate it
Could you use this on those textured ceilings old houses have?
Would it be a good product for me to use over a lightly textured ceiling (small utility room)?
It might be a good idea to add a little colorant to the final coat?
Colorant is good idea for touch up's after sanding ;)
Hi pal. Have you used toupret joint and skim? Could that be used for similar thing? Minus the use of a roller
Is this not very similar to thistle filler finish compound? I was very nervous plastering my chimney breast and had some thistle powered filler and used it like it was plaster, was way easier to work with smoothed out really nicely dried far quicker and any slight user error could be sanded easily. Granted I wouldn’t want to do a whole room with it but in my case I was doing above a picture rail and it worked out perfect. Side note thanks to your videos I got results I probably wouldn’t have done otherwise.
Great how to vid... great finish in no time!!! What's the actual compound product your using though?
If you drill to put a plug/screw will it be okay and not crack around the hole?
If it needs a proper plaster skim further down the line, will the plaster skim be okay on top?
Hi mate..ive never done any kind of plastering ever...ive just took off my wallpaper and theres pink plaster come off with it in 4mm patches on all 4 walls.. would this product do the job to skim a full room? And should i fill the blown plaster first before the skim? Great video mate,very informative
can you use the blue blade on this product or would you recommend the stainless steel blade ?
So can you use this product on a wall that you’ve just removed wallpaper? Say if there are quite a few dents behind?
nice presentation sir
Is this good to cover thin set corner beads?
Had the opportunity to try Knauf spray machine, flattening afterward the product was so different to Gypsum products.
What’s the thickness consistency of this compared to jointing compound? I used a thin coat of jointing compound on an old skimmed chimney and got excellent results but it was a pain as the compound was thick.
Would you need to apply a pre grit/pva to the wall before applying this?
Hello, I wanted to do a introductory plastering course with Able Skills. Im a newly qualified painter and decorator, is plastering good for existing walls or is it just for dray wall. Would this be better for existing walls that might be in ok to bad condition but not in need of full plastering? Also want to a tiling course, is either plastering or this suitable to do before tiling? Thanks for the video
Ok what you think about using pre made skim coat like Gyproc Easifiller Finish, i was about to skim coat a wall , but that Venetian Plaster video got me thinking wow
We used trowels and jointing knives to apply this stuff on narrow reveals where the spray fan was too big. Worked good. Still think traditional plaster is superior, for residential projects anyway.
Great to hear but I agree - plaster is superior in my opinion. But it has its uses sometimes.
Can you do this on wallpaper that is textured with a pattern?
can you use Knauf Airless Plaster or Knauf Pro Roll Light Plaster on bad walls that has paint on it
This is great stuff , how do you manage around a windows where a square edge is required or a edge bead is needed , well explained .
Great video Blaine ! Seems like a good product but I think I'll stick with plastering 👍
What roller would you use for a gypsum multi finish pal? Going to give it a go
Thaknks for the full demo. Would this stuff be suitable to go over the bonding coat of plaster. Or should I be using a mutli finish plaster?
TVM
Excellent video. I also heard its breathable which might be useful in older houses. On their website they said they also have a backing plaster so you can put it onto brick walls, don't know if you have tried that or could maybe one day do another video?
Thanks for your very helpful videos
That's exactly why I used it on the last job. It was an old victorian house and it just needed a re-skim. So for this job, it was perfect!! Because it was just an over skim the product worked perfectly and the walls could breath. Like you say, Gypsum would have been the worst thing to use. I've tried the backing product and I'll be honest, It's not great. No real thickness. Not worth it pal
@@PlasteringForBeginners ah great stuff, thanks for letting me know about that. Mine has alot of old lime plastered walls that needs reskimming so I will give that a go. Some walls need taking back to the brick, so maybe that Weber one coat render from your other videos might be good as that's supposedly breathable aswell. Hopefully these new products will be helpful on the huge Victorian housing stock in the UK as they can suffer from damp issues
Cheers
Great vid. Blaine, will this work on walls where wallpaper has been taken off ?
I've bought a 1930's house and the wallpaper is a thick textured paper. I'm guessing the plaster underneath won't be great. Will this product be good ?
Can this be used with corner/stop beads - have a couple of small walls that have external corners and another where we want to leave some exposed brickwork..
Appreciate any advice..
JR Great video! Can I use an electric sander?
Can this be used on fresh plasterboard without plastering 1st ?
Can you use any other product if knauf airless not available easily 😊
Excellent video - think I might just give this a go. Do you have to be careful how much you mix up, what with it drying quickly?
Could you use this for skimming an artex ceiling?
I used a similar Knauff product (pro roll I think) to do my hallway and stairs. The sanding stage was a nightmare, but my biggest issue is its hardness. Even after setting it is really soft and easily dented. I now use it for ceilings only because of this.
It’s stronger than Pro-Roll to be honest. It sets quite hard once it’s fully cured but I must admit that plaster is stronger. But yeah…I agree with what you said there 😉
Try use polymer type skim like Atlas GTA or Knauf fill & finish blue also you can use silicon base primer after sanding, it gives more strength to skim.
@@RenoTBG These give harder finishes than the Knauf airless plaster? Silicone base primer - something like Isomat Silicone Primer?
@@okafka5446 Don't know how hard is Knauf airless but Atlas GTA have good balance between hardness and sanding.
About primer, any silicon or acrylic should be good, Atlas uni grunt or Ceresit CT17. Diluted PVA or paint -miscoat are homemade primers not comparable to proper ones, they bond dust but not penetrate surface, wall, bricks, plaster, paint etc.
@@RenoTBG Thanks, that all makes sense.🙂
Fantastic video, im going to give it a go but at ceilings, any advice?
What grit sanding paper are you using
Thank you so much for the videos. Is this good for newly but poorly plaster walls? Will it become smooth?
Great vid cheers mucka 👍🏻
Hello would smartmix siniat be OK to use as a top coat, watered down
can I do apply this over chipped wall texture ?
Another great video Blaine thanks. Keep the videos coming get some great information from them
Thanks pal - hope you're well!
@PlasteringForBeginners yes im good pal hope you're all well
Can you apply this to fresh plaster board ?
Can you paint right after this process? or do you need to do a mist coat? also where can you buy this product would love to give it a go..
Great video. Can you use this over a painted wall?
How thick does this go on overall? For example, can it fill a 3mm angle bead
Brilliant lad. Thanks a lot
I take it that the joints have to be quite accurate before this as it is so thin a coat. Also corner bead would have to be smaller?
Loving these vids mate, what's the score with prep?
Do you pva first ot just get straight at it?
Ahh, 2 seconds later you answered my question 🤦♂️
Haha thanks matey! Hope you’re well my friend 👍
What product did you use for the walls? Can you give me a link or something, please 🙏
can you do this on plasterboard directly for a refurb?
I can only seem to find Knauf Pro roll from Wickes. How much will 1 tub do and is there anywhere cheaper?
Do you have a link for the air plaster?
Interesting stuff...but i think I'll stick to multifinish.probably works out cheaper too.
Really would love to know how breathable it is.
It could be a great product for DIYers who need to plaster over existing lime plaster. It would remove the pain of trying to find a plasterer who is willing to work with lime.
Can you use this (and/or knauf pro roll) on masonry backgrounds?
love watching your vids. can i just ask a question? can i use this in my bathroom over tiles. once they have been prepared with pregrit.
Can this be applied to a wall after I have removed tiles which takes of the plaster and the board paper.
Did you ?
Great Video, where can I buy it in the UK???
Roger Bisby did a demo of it some years ago. He showed it being sprayed on rather then using a roller. Only thing I can say it's good for is for plasterboarded walls (which is what the Yanks use) and that it provides a nice base for painting walls.
It's actually more work on plasterboard because you have to prefill the joints beforehand - that's what put me off to be honest. But It's rapid if you spray it. Very fast!!
@@PlasteringForBeginners I think is less physical effort than plaster even if you need to do joints and much faster application. You should do both coats with long skim knife in few moves, don't need trowel and second coat wet on wet.
In theory: if you get whole, 3 bed house in plasterboard's, 2-3 people team could, joint, skim, sand and paint in no more than a week.
Great videos!! question - can i put that on a wall I have just removed wallpaper from? its not very smooth? Also good for ceilings?
Can you use this over artex
I’ve just pulled wallpaper off in my hallway and the wall underneath is bumpy and rough, would this method still work after a couple of coats?
Thank you for the heads up on this product Blain. Can I ask a question which may be stupid but can I put the compound straight on to plasterboard instead of plaster? I have no experience of plastering etc so asking as a newbie. Thanks
This is great product for plasterboard, much easier for beginner. Remember only to tape/joint all boards edges.
@@RenoTBG Thank you
@@RenoTBG is i ok to use meral beading on plasterbiard joins or woukd i get away with using skrim tape???
Can this be used on board instead of plaster?
Can you use this straight on plaster board? thanks
Very informative video! We are removing a dropped ceiling in our Victorian and the plaster ceiling still has the original thick carboard like wallpaper. It is bringing the skim coat of plaster off with it. So far ceiling appears in good shape except for a few small cracks that do not appear deep. Could this be the solution?
Is this just for plasterboard? I have brick walls with plaster etc. I've removed years of wallpaper and paint to find the walls aren't smooth so I'm looking for a solution to fix it?
can you use this upto beading or are the coats too thin??
Hi mate where can I buy this can’t find anything online
I loved this.
So is that straight onto plasterboard?
The brand "Level 5" sells tools, not compound. What compound are you referring to that's used in the States?
Can this be applied over artex?
Hi Blaine. Great video as always!
Is it possible to scrim tape any cracks or are the coats too thin so the tape would show thru the finish coat?
Cheers Fella!
That stuff looks fantastic actually. Can I use it instead of tape and joint on new plasterboard? Probably not but I'm asking anyway in case it saves me time!
This is the problem. You still need one coat of filler and tape on the joints…that’s what killed this system for me on plasterboard. I like it on existing boards but didn’t like this aspect on plasterboard