Yeah people like you and me are OK doing that, apparently some people really hate haggling, so much so they'd rather pay more money for a car just so they don't have to be uncomfortable in a negotiation :). It a sad money losing adventure for most....
How much above invoice price is considered a good deal? For example I'm looking into buying a new 2024 GMC Sierra 2500HD PRO 4WD crew cab Diesel engine. Invoice prices are around 50k-53k and they're selling for 61k-68k
Two deals that I remember, one was when I negotiated a deal with literally one foot at the door inside the dealership and the other foot outside the dealership. The next great deal was when I walked away and as I got about a mile down the road they called and accepted the deal. To prove my point dealers have listening devices inside their offices when they leave you alone with your wife. Knowing this I said to my wife, "They won't come down 10K like that other dealer would, let's get out of here and go buy the vehicle where the dealer was discounting their vehicle 10K. All of a sudden the sales guy came back and accepted our 10K off offer.
I'm not saying you are wrong on the listening devices, but in all states it is illegal to have a spy listening device if you are not party to the conversation.
Man you really got some quality information, and so much potential content to make. I’ve been doing my research on a 03 accord I’m trying to get my hands on, and all of this will definitely come in handy. Keep it up, boss!
@TheCarGuyOnline is it true the best time to buy a car is in November, December just because they trying to make room for the new models so tneye can get rid of old ones ,and usually they offer good discounts and promotions?
Normally I would say that these strategies don't work as well on Toyotas because they have little stock, but you might actually get somewhere with the Tundras. Do you follow untamed motors on RUclips? He just released a video from his Toyota dealer in Wyoming, they are discounting some of the Tundras $8k, and that still didn't move them. You might want to check it out, not sure where you live :).
@@TheCarGuyOnline good to know. I’ll watch and subscribe to any channel that provides sound strategy tips on getting a good price deal on a 2024 Tundra.
@@DunceCapSyndrome there’s good news and “not so good” news, depending on how one looks at it. I did get a good deal on truck, but not a Tundra. I switched and went all in on 2024 Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4. Although I’m not the smoothest talker, I tried my best to employ some of the negotiation tactics from this channel (and others). The “not so good” news is I was not happy with trade in offer for my old vehicle. But in the end, no regrets and I’m happy with my Tacoma. I still enjoy this channel to see the insane markups and prices. Have a great one.
I give the dealership a 1/2 hour to get me in and out the door. I set an alarm on my phone, if the deal isn't in writing by then, I walk. (I already have financing ready to go and I never tell them that)
@@Snugs_TTV , Don't blame you. I've always found the right salesperson to get the best deal from. I usually get the guy that was been there for 20+ years and sells alot of cars. The last car I bought was over the phone and we agreed on a price over the phone and I told him I had financing done unless they had better, in this case they didn't. I was in and out of the dealership in 20mins.
@@swind2492 I work in volume dealing, and get paid mostly off unit bonuses, not gross margins in the car. With no add ones or mark ups. So it’s usually a nice experience for the client. Plus i get to sleep at night lol😂
Imagine going grocery shopping, and when you check out, the cashier says we have to charge you a delivery fee, use of our carts fee, nitrogen in the carts tire fee, grocery bag fee, etc. Only the car industry can do such nonsense.
I wish I did my research on buying cars before I bought my first one 2 years ago, this is definitely going to help with my next car purchase, THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! keep up the good work!
For me the best deal is a fair price and a quick and efficient transaction. Time is more valuable to me so I don’t waste hours trying to find the best price and drive 80 miles and spend 4 hours at s dealership to buy a car. I always lease cars and prefer to do business with the closest dealership in case there are issues I can easily drive back to the dealership.
I literally called every toyota dealer when I was looking for a camry just to try to filter out the competition. I did end up going in to 4/13 dealers and I end up getting a price better than I originally thought. Took about 8k off the total price.
Leaving is very powerful in 2017 me and my wife looked at a brand new Nissan rogue the first quote was $585 a month. I told the guy that sounds about like 10% interest and I’m not paying it. He complained about interest rates I said no I’m paying less interest on my current car and I know for a fact, my credits better now than it was then I’m not paying it About 530 a month very quickly my wife did not wanna pay that much so I politely told the man thank you for your time. We will just have to wait 10 minutes later as we’re pulling in our driveway we were offered 0% at 485 a month we went back and got the vehicle at that point, if the dealer truly wants to sell, leaving is a lot of power because they won’t sell to get rid of that vehicle
I like to do deals over email . Use quotes from various dealers and shop them to other dealers . Whoever gives the best out the door price I usually go with . All I have to do then is walk in person and verify the numbers are what was discussed , test drive and sign . Save more time doing it online thru emailing or phone.
I’d say you’re almost there… when you negotiate say that’s with fees and taxes include. I say that because that 43k deal you showed added another 4K!!!
This is the one place where I did _not_ screw up on my last used car buy. I told the dealer I couldn't go over my budget, even with taxes in, and we didn't. The rest of the deal was a crap-show, though. I didn't drive it long enough, didn't get it checked over by a mechanic, didn't put a little magnet around the wheel-wells to check for body filler... the list goes on. Here I am three years later looking to replace what has become somewhat of a financial black hole.
NEVER EVER trust car fax. My daughter wrecked her Volve to the tune of 10K in damages on a vehicle that was worth 19K. After we got it back from the body shop I pulled a car fax and it came back clean with no accidents.
Yeah it's just a first check/baseline to weed out the cars that were reported. How long did you wait to pull the Carfax? Sometimes it takes a while to report, but some body shops won't report it either. I typically search google for the VIN, look for salvage records etc. before looking at a vehicle too. It's just one piece to the puzzle. Sometimes the only way to find issues is to get it on a lift and really look it over, or have a mechanic look.
Cant stress this enough, when i had an accident my body shop said this car has had more than 1 accident as NONE of the front end were Acura parts , yet it had a clean carfax from the delaership and I knew the Salesman personally!
My brother cannot negotiate to save his life and he is buying his first car today. I know nothing about cars and I have to be the negotiator thank you very much!
I told the sales representative exactly what I wasn’t paying for I asked for the buy rate and the price out the door when I finally agreed to a price of which was really good and the highest dollars for my trade in after a few minutes he came back with a 15.9 apr on finance I asked why the high interest rate and he said my score was 630 I had already downloaded my 3 credit scores my low and behold I was 720 so my next step was out the door with no sale
I got an otd breakdown and then counter offered with a value right in between dealership and private party good condition which was about 2k lower. I was expecting them to work up from there but instead they got an attitude and just refused my offer bc it was a cpo. It was odd.
Yeah every dealer is different, currently dealers are in temper tantrum mode. They are starting to miss the 2021-2023 market where it was a sellers market, they could do whatever markups they wanted, and they had no haggling. Now we are getting back to pre-beer virus market, and it's a buyers market, however it's taking them time to adjust. Typically when I have a dealer with attitude or won't accept what I feel is a reasonable offer for the car (I feel like they are making something on it, but not a killing), I will just leave, give them my number if they change their mind, move on to next dealer.
Wow. So much information here thank you. I want to buy used RAV4 and I’m a first time buyer I don’t know anything about cars is there a way I can contact you for some question?
Negotiate via email/state you have a ton of 'feelers' out there and its the only way for you to keep track. We speak at closing POST any finalized negotiations, that's it. Hella easy to walk out on a potential deal from the comfort of your own space
Very, very informative. An enlightening beautiful at the very lease. Really appreciate the information and yes, you were correct. In every single word, thank you so much from our family to yours
How does the independent mechanic work? Do you fill out some paperwork or something and they let you take it to a mechanic’s shop or do you need to bring the mechanic to the dealership? Or……….?
Yeah, I had this question too. I don’t think many dealers will let you take it for inspection. I believe most will likely say no.. I would love to get his thoughts on this too…
subbed love the step by step format your using, I'm in the market for a used 2021 Bmw M4 and a lot of these dealerships are still asking for High 60's Low 70's and I'm noticing many of them are sitting on the lot going on 60-90+ days , I imagine if I just wait a couple more months (around the summer time) since by then most of the tax refund money will have been spent by most people plus more and more leases are now ending since its a 2021 they will be going for mid to low 60s , I'd love your opinion on this thank you!
Your thought process is correct, higher stock and longer time sitting on lot should eventually equal savings, however it's tough to say if they will be motivated to move the M4s or not. Doing a quick search I only see 22 new M4s within 500 miles of me, that's a very low number, so even if they are sitting they might be stingy with them until they are absolutely forced to discount. In addition to that, BMW had a good 2023, we'll see how they do in 2024. We should be able to tell after first quarter sales numbers come out this year, if it looks like BMW is down in 2024 Q1 compared to 2023 Q1, then chances might be higher for summer deals, provided stock/time on dealer lot still says high enough. Given BMW prices, I'm not sure tax season will affect their sales or not, probably not as much as some of the more affordable brands. Not sure I helped much but, I'll try to keep an eye out on the luxury brands as I move along. It's crazy, when you sent this comment, I was actually AT the BMW dealer today trying to film a new video, it was raining so I didn't get much video but, it was still fun.
@@TheCarGuyOnline No thank you it was a great help , but I do have a question I saw you say there was only 22 brand new ones in your area why would that effect the price of used ones specifically a 2021? I would think they would continue to drop significantly especially since the 2025 model will start to hit dealerships as the year goes on.
at 02:20 when you subtracted the advertised car value from the higher end trading price, would you exclude the sales tax and registration costs advertised
hey! i'm looking at a used 2018 Audi Q7 Prestige selling for 20,500. it was a trade-in to the dealer - KBB trade-in value is between 16,500-20,077. even if i give benefit of the doubt that the dealer bought it for 20,000 from the previous owner, it seems unlikely they are willing to keep the car around and still sell it for 20,500. this makes me believe they got the Audi for a really low ball trade-in offer, guessing below the 16,500 minimum KBB value or right around the minimum. do you think my educated guess would make sense or is correct? even if i ask them how much they bought the Audi for, i doubt they would truthfully tell me thanks!
I would agree with you...with luxury used cars like Audi/BMW, folks generally trade them in and don't care what they get for trade. Lots of...upper middle class folks that just don't mind getting black book wholesale value. I would start as low as you can with a straight face and just work up...as long as you are nice/patient...you'll find where they are willing to sell.
@@TheCarGuyOnline i did your strategies in this video with the same Audi the other day. needless to say the dealer was pissed! it's one of those dealers that are known for being "professional" but i knew they didn't like that i was an informed buyer. i had the salesman acting dumb, saying the most ridiculous things i've never heard of such as "i can't make those out the door numbers for you. only my sales manager can do that.. and unfortunately my sales manager already left for the day." i offered 16,000 and even politely told them "i know a dealer needs to make profit so i'm willing to negotiate a price that works for both of us" and they still didn't budge. they only gave $500 off. i walked away.
In 2024? The best thing you can do is to not buy a new car at all. Or an RV or Motorhome. The prices have gone up again and it's only a matter of time before it all comes crashing down. Repos are at record numbers and dealerships are really in trouble, especially those who ripped people off during the pandemic. Auto Nation is pulling out of Stelantis completely. People don't forget these things. I remember when we had a flood and the local 7/11 was ripping everybody off. As soon as it was over they went bankrupt and no business ever survived in that building again. That was 30 years ago and it's still vacant. People don't forget when they've been ripped off.
The Car Guy Online is good! I like everything he said, but if you're buying a used car the very 1st thing you should do is have an independent mechanic that you trust (or another dealership's service dept) look over the condition of the vehicle AND tell you if it's been in an accident or not. Several times a car will be in an accident & the repairs are paid outside of insurance to save the resell value & KBB won't catch damage fixed out of pocket & the repair work will be completed as cheaply as possible. Once you determined the car is worth purchasing, then go through this exercise and use anything you see by the mechanic as negotiation power. Buying cars sucks because you need be stern & sometimes a D-!-C-K so you don't get hosed by a bad price or lemon of a car.
It really depends on the vehicle you are looking at. Some new cars currently are getting easier to negotiate because they have a lot of stock/supply. If you are looking at a new car that is in higher demand/lower supply, it will be harder to negotiate. Used vehicles will depend too, some dealers are "no haggle", and they try to have lower prices and lower profit margins per vehicle.
Edmunds has an invoice "estimator" but it's tough because option packages change everything. It will get you close. For example, on that Ford F150 XL, invoice is estimated around $41k, and then it has some options on top of that. There are other estimators but unless I had access to the dealerships actual financials, I'm not sure I 100% trust any of the "invoice" numbers from different data providers.
The best deal I obtained so far on the 2025 Camry LE AWD includes 10k down in cash 4.99 interest rate 72 month term (I'll probably pay it off earlier) I had them discount msrp and add in the cold weather package (heated seats and wrapped heated steering wheel and more) and their convenience package. They are promising me my payment will be $520 a month including all fees, taxes, interest, etc. which but with the 10k downpayment will lower my monthly payment. Does that sound like a fair deal or a bad one?
Great advice. Thank you so much. I’m going to try all those things, but I have one problem. I live in Florida and the car I want to make a deal on is in Des Moines, Iowa. So I have to fly to Iowa to even take a look at the car and check it out, which screams to the dealership that I really really want the car.
You can try to do all negotiations over email/phone, and just never say where you are from. They don't need to know until you get in the finance room or sign papers :).
I am such a doofus. Before I saw your video I called them, asked them how much it would be to ship to Florida and told them my name and gave them my email so he could send me a pic of the window sticker. I was planning on flying there Saturday morning to check out the car. I’m already financed with my credit union. I was going to make an offer at 3000 less than what they’re selling it for. And when they say no, just call an Uber and head back to the airport. I was thinking because it’s the end of the month, they won’t let me leave. I have print outs of 3 other cars with same year and mileage that are at least 3000 less.
@@kerrydrayton7963 I think you could still pull it off. You have a lot of leverage with other cars being less. I would go into the dealership with the other offers printed and ask them if they can match they don’t need to know who you are when you get there. and then you could just tell them that you’re actually visiting some relatives or something if they figure it out. lots of ways to play it like you don’t really need the car even though you flew there, intending to get it.
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
Can you use these tactics though when you want to finance a car or it’s better if you have the cash? I’m interested in a car but I have the 70% of the money for the price of the car. I need to get a car though because my car is breaking already and I want to trade it in but I don’t know if I should.
Is a prepurchase inspection necessary if you’re buying from a franchise official dealer for the make? Not a certified pre owned but still the same make as the franchise? Also if the car has been serviced there for 6 years
I would inspect myself but I’ve done a lot of mechanic work over the years. It depends on your comfort level. It’s always nice to get a second opinion from an independent mechanic if you aren’t sure.
I have occasionally gotten good deals at dealers, but very rarely do you get a great deal. One advantage in buying from a dealer is tax. If you trade in a car that is worth $20,000 on a vehicle that is worth $30,000, you only pay tax on the difference of $10,000 instead of paying tax on the full amount, which closes the gap some, however that tax advantage is usually eroded by the low trade in values dealers give customers. I personally like selling my vehicles outright if I can, you almost always get more value but it's a pain and time consuming. Most deals run through dealerships nowadays unfortunately.
What if when you give them an offer they ask where you got that number from? Do I tell them straight up that I got an estimate of the car’s value on kelley bluebook and edmunds?? Love the vid btw!
If they ask, I would answer that question with a question. Say "how much would you give me on trade if this was my car?". They might turn red...and in fact, before I go in to the dealer, I usually call or email them and get some trade estimate for the car I'm considering buying from them. They'll ask what cars I'm interested in on their lot, just redirect them or tell them one of their new cars. Once they give you trade in value (estimate) of the car you are fictitiously trading in that matches the car they have for sale that you want, then you can use that as leverage and say "hey, you told me you'd only give X amount on that car, so why are you trying to sell it for Y". Leverage is everything. Not every dealer will move their price drastically but if you call/email enough, you'll find one that will. I expect the dealer to make some profit on the car over trade/wholesale value, but they don't need to be making $5,000+ on each transaction while screwing you.
Can you please tell me how to you get a reliable invoice value on a new vehicle? And is the "dealer freight" or "vehicle destination charge" a real customer cost and, therfore, non-negotiable? Dealers get new cars all the time. I can't imagine them paying an individual and high delivery fee on each one. The truthful answers to these questions would significantly level the playing field when purchasing a new vehicle. Thank you so much.
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thanks ever so much for the courtesy of a prompt reply. That was extraordinarily kind of you. Any thoughts on the validity / propriety of "doc" fees; that is, can they be negotiated away? If not, that's okay. I just don't know. Thanks again. You're a blessing and the best protection against the automotive industry pirates!!!
@@thomasc4777anything is negotiable in my opinion. You can ask for anything you want to be removed, the worst that can happen is they say no. Most dealerships aren’t willing to lose a deal over a couple hundred bucks unless the car is in high demand.
So when it comes to the out the door price, should we also take a consideration the dealership’s insurance prices for ex: the case of death or bumper to bumper coverage?
Thanks for your stream. In your opinion, which date is it cheapest to purchase a new Honda? 1. Memorial day weekend 2. July 4th weekend 3. June 30, last day of month and last day of quarter, last day of calendar year Thxs
In general, car deals will get better from August to January, I believe January is one of the best months to buy a car because it's one of the lowest sales months...but Aug-Jan are generally better than the rest of the year. Sometimes you can get good financing deals on 1/2/3, you'll have to check with Honda on this. Keep in mind, Honda and Toyota have the least amount of deals going compared to just about every other brand, mainly due to their reputation.
I have a credit score of 825 and was quoted $590 a month on a 2025 Camry SE, 84 months with 5k down. Does that sound fair or a rip off? Thanks! I'm doing my due diligence but I'm still confused!!
Great advice ! Any tips on negotiating with a car that is “rare” ? Here in Canada B.C. looking at a 23’ Volkswagen atlas with 20,000 km. However it has the captains chairs (which we want) and have been waiting for months for one to come up in our area. It finally has but worried we won’t have much negotiation power due to how rare/ desired it is
It depends on the trim/engine/mileage/condition/accident history etc.... For the price, you might be able to get a lot better financing rate on a new one vs. used which makes a difference over time on a big note. It will also depend on your local area, how much competition there is, how in-demand trucks are etc.
Waiting is by far the best thing you can do. IMO, starting this month, we are going to begin seeing more desperation and deals from car dealerships. It will take some time, but if the markets keeping correcting the way they are, I would guess end of August - January will have a lot more buying opportunities than what we have seen so far in 2024 (for new). It will also depend heavily on what vehicle you are looking for. If it's a vehicle with low supply/high demand, deals will be harder to come by
Thanks for video... what if the dealer tells me the used car is from an auction and had two minir accidents? Does this reduce the price or give me any leverage?
If you are buying a used car that has 2 accidents reported, you need to try to determine what they were. Everyone says things were minor when they were not. Carfax may report minor, but you'd have to inspect the vehicle to see if they pulled the frame/re-welded things, if anything is out of alignment etc. It's very hard to rebuild a car properly when frame/subframe damage occurs. I personally try not to buy cars with accidents on the carfax/report, but if you do, yes it's a huge leverage point for you. Also knowing they bought at auction gives you leverage, you know they paid less than trade-in value for the vehicle, probably a lot less. IMO it reduces the value of the vehicle at least 1-2k under one that has not had an accident. If the title is "rebuilt", I would just steer clear...
Hey! I put a deposit down on a 2018 Honda civic EX of $200. I noticed it’s priced at $15,805 but the same vehicle just one year earlier at 2017 is priced at 13,898. About the same km’s only 10 thousand km difference. Should I leverage it? How do I get my deposit back if I back out the deal? No actual downpayment made yet. Anyone got any advice?
Delivery is always included on invoice for new cars, is this what you are asking? Used cars it's more negotiable (called dealer handling), if they recondition the car/clean it/inspect it etc.
Hello sir, I watched your video yesterday and I’m really interested into better deals of buying suv for my family of 7. I just wanted to buy used suv under 15k but I always get no deal or bad seller. I go there and checked the suv out and make an offer but They trying to screw me all the time. Is there any way you can help me? Thank you.
It will depend on what you are looking at. What SUVs are you looking at (Make/Model/Year)? It also depends on the price someone has it listed it. Some used cars now are still selling for way too much. The market is a bit backwards, new cars are on lots and they have financing deals whereas used cars actually went up in value over the past couple of months.
I've purchased rentals before and I've had friends that have as well, we haven't had issues. I'm pretty thorough when I check vehicles out so just try to take your time. Lookup the VIN on google and vehicle information checks, run a Carfax if they don't provide one, then check the body/paint/pull oil fill cap and see if engine has varnish or foamy looking oil, pull the dipstick and see if it's clean/brown or light color oil, look for leaks, look at the coolant level/color, if you can have them start the vehicle cold so you can see how it sounds/look at exhaust color, check under the car for damage and suspension, make sure tires are all the same brand and decent, look at rotors/brakes if you can....all typical checks I do on a used vehicle anyway but rentals can be a good value . Good luck :).
Couple things * Did you take into account recon * What if it wasn't a trade and they purchased it from auction which is generally higher * also a 2015 with 40k on it is a very rare vehicle (they will charge more)
Dealer recon is pretty cheap, they use their own labor at cost, not at retail labor rates, they typically put cheap/garbage tires on that are 1/2 the cost of good tires etc. Recon is...a joke from 90% of dealers. Some do it correctly, but not many. Auction is typically cheaper to buy for dealers than a clean trade, so they might spend more on recon but they have less in the vehicle to start with. I don't mind if the dealer makes some profit, but they don't need to make $5-$8k on every transaction, which is what they shoot for.
minor on the carfax? I would try to get information on what it was/where the accident is located. Sometimes accidents on the rear or side of the car when minor are better, fewer electronics/engine parts etc. It would become a judgement call. Any car that might have an accident reported is worth having a second opinion from a mechanic, they can put it on a lift and verify with you that there's no frame damage/welding on frame or other issues that may not be minor, but were reported as such.
@@TheCarGuyOnline good thing I did research. dealer has a history of getting nasty with costumers, yelling at them, lying about records and selling vehicles with bad engines.
Yeah handling fees are always negotiable. IMO, they shouldn't exist, dealers should just set the asking price of the car. Dealers do their best to buy low, sell high, then tack on whatever fees they can and try to wear you down.
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
Usually on a new car I try to use edmunds to find invoice pricing. I use invoice to negotiate. I don't buy new cars much anymore, too much depreciation, I'd recommend getting something that is 1-2 years old with 20-30k miles and save the $20k in depreciation :).
Ok, so I looked uo a mazda 6 I'm interested in buying and the kbb trade in value came in right at the listing price from the dealer. What does this mean and how do you think I should proceed?
As a simple exercise, I like to call the dealer that has the car and see if I can get a ballpark trade in over the phone for the vehicle that I'm interesting in buying. Generally dealers will tell you some ballpark/non-exact trade in value if you can give them the year/trim/mileage. You can then use this to determine close to what they had to give for the vehicle you are looking to buy, unless they got it from auction in which case they paid much less for it. Currently, auction cars are going for a lot less than they used to and used cars are coming down as well. This gives me a starting point. How much are they asking for the Mazda vs. KBB Trade-in value?
@@TheCarGuyOnline that's why I'm so confused. The original owner bought and maintained the car from the dealership that is now selling it. They are listing the price about 1k over the KBB trade in value.
@@jg-wb3vm Did they provide a carfax, clean with no accidents etc.? Is it a model that has known issues or anything weird, or a model that has high supply/low demand? Sometimes dealers just want to get rid of cars instead of sending them to auction. Sometimes, if a car has higher miles they just want to turn it quickly, really depends on the situation. Without more details/info, I couldn't tell you much more. You can email me if you'd like, cars AT thecarguyonline DOT com.
@@TheCarGuyOnline appreciate it. I tried the email but it says for me to enter a valid one. It's a 2018 mazda 6 signature with 30k miles selling for 22k and some change. Clean carfax and fro. The dealership that originally sold it.
Great video! When you offer them the high trade in value, does this include taxes? Or do you mention that you want taxes and all the other BS fees included in your offer?
I usually assume I will pay taxes and D&H...then I pay nothing else. Some dealers don't have D&H, if they don't I might come up a little off high trade. I actually JUST bought a 2020 Tesla Model 3 with this same method. I paid high trade in value (including D&H), then got another $4000 off that price due to IRS credit. I had to call/email about 5 dealers but found one that was really wanting to deal. In this case it worked because Hertz flooded the market with rental Teslas (mine wasn't a rental), but it helped bring up supply which helps the buyer with leverage. It's always situational, some dealers won't budge of a car/truck is rare or there's high demand/no stock, but you get the idea.
I usually look on Edmunds, you can find invoice there for new vehicles but you have to consider options. So it gives you a nice starting point, then just add on the options from there. Sometimes you'll see "invoice with options" too. help.edmunds.com/hc/en-us/articles/360020890413-How-to-find-TMV-Invoice-Pricing-on-Edmunds
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thank you. I was able to do the research, get an estimated invoice price, and an Edmunds estimated offer price. Based on the research, I was able to calculate my own offer prices (initial, counter, and second counter/final (if needed)) in advance of my going into the dealership. Given the popularity of the model of the car, I was reasonable in my offer and it was accepted. I gave them profit, but I came in 2,000 under MSRP before an additional 3000 manufacture rebate, so I saved 5,000 under MSRP. The dealership still made money and I walked away feeling that I wasn’t a complete putz for agreeing to MSRP. Thanks for the advice.
@@OlsenTheWonderDog That's awesome. Most people don't like negotiating so they just take whatever the dealer gives them. Sounds like you got a good deal. What did you end up getting?
@@TheCarGuyOnlineWe ordered a BMW X3 xDeive30i with metallic paint, premium, parking assistance, and driver assistance packages, and other interior options. We came in 5000 below MSRP. Both Edmunds and True Car/Consumer Reports suggested we got a good deal. So, we are happy with it.
@@TheCarGuyOnline I also used timing as an advantage to bolster ny negotiating posture. I waited towards the latter part of the month, but not too late in the month, so that the dealership and salesperson could make a sale to meet their respective monthly quota. I also scheduled my dealership visit in the late afternoon but close to the closing time so that the protracted negotiation would butt up against the dealership closing hour and the salesperson and sales manager might be inclined to accept my offer in order to make the sale before they closed for the evening.
There are many sources for invoice amounts. Kelly Blue Book, Edmunds, and more. Or ask the dealer. An ethical dealer should have no issues showing you the invoice. But understand invoice is not what the dealer pays for the vehicle. They pay less. There is holdback (percentage of MSRP), floor planning assistance, and various incentives from the manufacturer resulting in dealers paying much less than invoice. This is why dealers often sell at or even below invoice.
I think it depends on the vehicle. To give an example, if they are selling a certified Toyota Camry (non-turbo) as certified, but it only has 30k miles on it, I'm not really sure how much the certified piece of mind is worth because the Camry still has 30k left on powertrain from manufacturer, and it will probably go 200k with no issues and regular maintenance. If you are talking about a different scenario like...Audi/BMW/Some other less reliable or high cost of ownership vehicle, then it might be worth having a longer certified warranty.
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thanks for the response! What prompted my question is that I've been looking at a certified 2020 Subaru Forester Sport. They're asking about $26,500 (which KBB called a "good deal"). Looking up the VIN on KBB as you suggested gave a trade-in estimate of about $21,500 to $23,700. This is much less of a markup than I expected, so I'm wondering how much leverage I can actually apply. Thanks again!
@@kenweller2032you might be correct in that there isn’t much wiggle room in that deal. You can check the local market in your area to compare… haggling gets pretty tough if they are already one of the best prices around.
All good points and strategies, thankyou. Any truth to ordering a new vehicle helping in reducing the normal markups/adjustments that so many vehicles already on the lot seem to come with? I've this about Ford and always wondered if there was any truth to it?
When ordering new vehicles you have less leverage IMO. Usually reserved for those that don't mine paying higher prices to get exactly what they want. You would be much better off trying to locate something that has been sitting on a lot for a while, or previous model year unsold...to get a great deal on new. You can check edmunds.com for invoice pricing on a lot of new vehicles, that is one of the only resources I've seen invoice pricing.
Yes. Dealers will have their used car, service department inspect the vehicle and perform a smog inspection . There's the standard used vehicle, and there's certified used vehicles. The year model and mileage determine if a vehicle can be sold as a certified vehicle. That's because the dealer pays for the designation. The vehicle will come with a limited warranty that is backed by the manufacturer, and a certified vehicle can be eligible for lower financing rates than a regular used vehicle. The standards for a certified vehicle are set by the manufacturer. It's their inspection sheet that has to be followed.
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
Glad you liked it. It doesn't work every time but it's a good foundation to not get hosed at dealerships. I always just change dealerships if the tactics don't work.
I politely requested a price of a car and they wrote back. What do I say to this?: Here at (dealership) we provide you with the very best price right upfront on every pre-owned vehicle and call it negotiation hassle-free SMART pricing. Therefore the Smart price on the 2020 Subaru Legacy is $22,468.
The vehicle is also (dealership name) and with (dealership name) certification you can have peace of mind knowing that you have purchased a safety-checked vehicle and that our well-qualified technicians have diagnosed and performed any required service to the vehicle. If after 5 days you decide this is not the vehicle for you you can return it for a full refund of your money. If you do not feel this is the right vehicle for you after 30 days you can exchange it for another vehicle here on the lot.
Check KBB for an estimate of the retail price of the vehicle. If you decide to buy, make sure the actual contract does not contain anything limiting the return policy noted. Never trust a car dealer as to anything they say or do. Verify everything.
With new cars, you need to try to figure out or approximate invoice. Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
What are they charging a convenience fee for? I would just tell them you want it removed. It depends on what it is...if it's $!5, probably not worth fighting, if it's hundreds it probably is.
Thanks a lot for sharing this video I was wondering if there was an email to reach out for your expert advice. I am negotiating for an Audi Q7 2021 ( 12000 miles) at an Audi dealership. We negotiated ( I just tried using some of your tips) from 47 K Out of the door price to 43 K. I am wondering if I still landed a good deal. Any guidance here will be really appreciated ( KBB has different values for dealer price/ individual price). Should I do further negotiation as we havent signed the check yet.
Sorry for missing this, it has been 3 weeks so I assume you may have purchased by now :). $42k seems like that's on the lower end of what they are selling for, even nationwide (3 weeks after you posted this). www.cars.com/shopping/results/?dealer_id=&include_shippable=true&keyword=&list_price_max=&list_price_min=&makes[]=audi&maximum_distance=all&mileage_max=13000&models[]=audi-q7&monthly_payment=&page_size=20&sort=list_price&stock_type=all&year_max=&year_min=2021&zip=80504 Some of the pricing will depend on options/trim level too...but in general it seems like $42k is better priced than most. I'm at cars AT thecarguyonline DOT com if you want to email me :).
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thank you for your response! I missed this deal. I was late by a couple of hours and they went ahead and sold the car. Will reach out for your advice as I finalize the next one.
Question: I'm looking at a 2024 Compass fully loaded originally $33,2k with 45miles on it. I saw the car this Friday. They gave me OTD $37,514 which MSRP was $38,335. I wasn't feeling that price because im pre approved with Navy fed for $37k and I'm not trying to use the whole thing on the car. Something told me to wait and i just checked the site again the car dropped $850 @ $31,268 now with dealer discounts at $7,067. Car has been on the lot for 276 days as of today. My question is, what is the best negotiation tactic to get the car for $32k or $33,5k OTD with tax/title/fee? They told me since im pre-approved, that I lost out on $2-$2,5k on discounts on the car since finance was through dealer for $5,067 on dealer discounts. This isn't my 1st car, I have a 2015 Dart I bought brand new and paid off in 2021 w/title but I'm not trading it in as that will be my daily due to the 183k miles.
I usually just walk in a scream "I want a new car today! and I'll pay any price! and i want all the warranties!!"
😂😂
LOL....
😂😂😂😂
They must love you. The dealership will probably get you lunch and coffee and tell the other customers to come back later.
Not a smart strategy. Watch the vid pal
I just say , "how much above invoice are you asking?" They usually respond, "are you a dealer?" Then I go for the throat, politely of course!!
Yeah people like you and me are OK doing that, apparently some people really hate haggling, so much so they'd rather pay more money for a car just so they don't have to be uncomfortable in a negotiation :). It a sad money losing adventure for most....
How much above invoice price is considered a good deal? For example I'm looking into buying a new 2024 GMC Sierra 2500HD PRO 4WD crew cab Diesel engine. Invoice prices are around 50k-53k and they're selling for 61k-68k
@@hernanmejia2394 the price above invoice is dealer profit. Thats between you and them.
21k for a 2015 car. That’s a crime.
Yep used car market is F ed.
It’s a low mile Toyota. They hold pretty high value in today’s market
Two deals that I remember, one was when I negotiated a deal with literally one foot at the door inside the dealership and the other foot outside the dealership. The next great deal was when I walked away and as I got about a mile down the road they called and accepted the deal. To prove my point dealers have listening devices inside their offices when they leave you alone with your wife. Knowing this I said to my wife, "They won't come down 10K like that other dealer would, let's get out of here and go buy the vehicle where the dealer was discounting their vehicle 10K. All of a sudden the sales guy came back and accepted our 10K off offer.
That's a great story. Pretty creepy stuff with them listening in....
I'm not saying you are wrong on the listening devices, but in all states it is illegal to have a spy listening device if you are not party to the conversation.
What year was this?
Yeah you’re full of shit 😂
They do position their staff to remain in earshot too. That’s most of their “listening devices”.
Man you really got some quality information, and so much potential content to make. I’ve been doing my research on a 03 accord I’m trying to get my hands on, and all of this will definitely come in handy. Keep it up, boss!
I appreciate that!
@TheCarGuyOnline is it true the best time to buy a car is in November, December just because they trying to make room for the new models so tneye can get rid of old ones ,and usually they offer good discounts and promotions?
Thanks for the strategy, I’m ready to use those tactics on 2024 Tundra at my local dealership.
Normally I would say that these strategies don't work as well on Toyotas because they have little stock, but you might actually get somewhere with the Tundras. Do you follow untamed motors on RUclips? He just released a video from his Toyota dealer in Wyoming, they are discounting some of the Tundras $8k, and that still didn't move them. You might want to check it out, not sure where you live :).
@@TheCarGuyOnline good to know. I’ll watch and subscribe to any channel that provides sound strategy tips on getting a good price deal on a 2024 Tundra.
@@CalvAnonWere you able to get a good deal on Tundra? And what tactics worked for you?
@@CalvAnon Any luck?
@@DunceCapSyndrome there’s good news and “not so good” news, depending on how one looks at it. I did get a good deal on truck, but not a Tundra. I switched and went all in on 2024 Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4. Although I’m not the smoothest talker, I tried my best to employ some of the negotiation tactics from this channel (and others). The “not so good” news is I was not happy with trade in offer for my old vehicle. But in the end, no regrets and I’m happy with my Tacoma. I still enjoy this channel to see the insane markups and prices. Have a great one.
I give the dealership a 1/2 hour to get me in and out the door. I set an alarm on my phone, if the deal isn't in writing by then, I walk. (I already have financing ready to go and I never tell them that)
That's a nice way to turn the leverage back to you as well, thanks for the tip :).
I’m a car salesman. If I give you a strong deal on a car, and you try to outside finance after agreeing. I’ll just scrap the deal to be honest
@@Snugs_TTV , Don't blame you. I've always found the right salesperson to get the best deal from. I usually get the guy that was been there for 20+ years and sells alot of cars. The last car I bought was over the phone and we agreed on a price over the phone and I told him I had financing done unless they had better, in this case they didn't. I was in and out of the dealership in 20mins.
@@swind2492 I work in volume dealing, and get paid mostly off unit bonuses, not gross margins in the car. With no add ones or mark ups. So it’s usually a nice experience for the client. Plus i get to sleep at night lol😂
Imagine going grocery shopping, and when you check out, the cashier says we have to charge you a delivery fee, use of our carts fee, nitrogen in the carts tire fee, grocery bag fee, etc. Only the car industry can do such nonsense.
Quite a few are charging for bags now.
Wow, you're right, and we as consumers allow it. When you think about it, it's pathetic.
Imagine going to Walmart and negotiating prices on milk
I wish I did my research on buying cars before I bought my first one 2 years ago, this is definitely going to help with my next car purchase, THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! keep up the good work!
As a former car salesperson, I'll do ANYTHING to avoid setting foot in a dealership, playing their deceptive, demeaning "haggle" games.
You obviously either didn’t work there long or just worked at a shitty used car lot selling junk cars.
What great tips! Love the idea of working up from the trade in price instead of down from their high posted price. I took lots of notes!
For me the best deal is a fair price and a quick and efficient transaction. Time is more valuable to me so I don’t waste hours trying to find the best price and drive 80 miles and spend 4 hours at s dealership to buy a car. I always lease cars and prefer to do business with the closest dealership in case there are issues I can easily drive back to the dealership.
I literally called every toyota dealer when I was looking for a camry just to try to filter out the competition. I did end up going in to 4/13 dealers and I end up getting a price better than I originally thought. Took about 8k off the total price.
That's awesome. Toyota is....very difficult to get good discounts with compared to other brands, especially after 2020 era. Great work.
Leaving is very powerful in 2017 me and my wife looked at a brand new Nissan rogue the first quote was $585 a month. I told the guy that sounds about like 10% interest and I’m not paying it. He complained about interest rates I said no I’m paying less interest on my current car and I know for a fact, my credits better now than it was then I’m not paying it About 530 a month very quickly my wife did not wanna pay that much so I politely told the man thank you for your time. We will just have to wait 10 minutes later as we’re pulling in our driveway we were offered 0% at 485 a month we went back and got the vehicle at that point, if the dealer truly wants to sell, leaving is a lot of power because they won’t sell to get rid of that vehicle
You’re supposed to negotiate on the price not the monthly payment. That’s how they get you.
I like to do deals over email . Use quotes from various dealers and shop them to other dealers . Whoever gives the best out the door price I usually go with . All I have to do then is walk in person and verify the numbers are what was discussed , test drive and sign . Save more time doing it online thru emailing or phone.
I’d say you’re almost there… when you negotiate say that’s with fees and taxes include. I say that because that 43k deal you showed added another 4K!!!
This is the one place where I did _not_ screw up on my last used car buy. I told the dealer I couldn't go over my budget, even with taxes in, and we didn't. The rest of the deal was a crap-show, though. I didn't drive it long enough, didn't get it checked over by a mechanic, didn't put a little magnet around the wheel-wells to check for body filler... the list goes on. Here I am three years later looking to replace what has become somewhat of a financial black hole.
NEVER EVER trust car fax. My daughter wrecked her Volve to the tune of 10K in damages on a vehicle that was worth 19K. After we got it back from the body shop I pulled a car fax and it came back clean with no accidents.
Yeah it's just a first check/baseline to weed out the cars that were reported. How long did you wait to pull the Carfax? Sometimes it takes a while to report, but some body shops won't report it either. I typically search google for the VIN, look for salvage records etc. before looking at a vehicle too. It's just one piece to the puzzle. Sometimes the only way to find issues is to get it on a lift and really look it over, or have a mechanic look.
Cant stress this enough, when i had an accident my body shop said this car has had more than 1 accident as NONE of the front end were Acura parts , yet it had a clean carfax from the delaership and I knew the Salesman personally!
@@TheCarGuyOnline How do you get the VIN number if they don't give it to you?
@@jadalevi If I call someone on phone and they refuse to give the VIN, I typically just move on to the next buyer.
A lot of good information appreciate the video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Listen to this guy 🎧 people every word he’s saying save don’t overpay 👍
My brother cannot negotiate to save his life and he is buying his first car today. I know nothing about cars and I have to be the negotiator thank you very much!
How’d it go?
@@insanedvo He was a pushover and would not let me talk. Not a terrible deal none the less but he could have definitely saved money :(
I told the sales representative exactly what I wasn’t paying for I asked for the buy rate and the price out the door when I finally agreed to a price of which was really good and the highest dollars for my trade in after a few minutes he came back with a 15.9 apr on finance I asked why the high interest rate and he said my score was 630 I had already downloaded my 3 credit scores my low and behold I was 720 so my next step was out the door with no sale
What a bummer, glad you walked though. No vehicle is worth 15% rate :)
I got an otd breakdown and then counter offered with a value right in between dealership and private party good condition which was about 2k lower. I was expecting them to work up from there but instead they got an attitude and just refused my offer bc it was a cpo. It was odd.
Yeah every dealer is different, currently dealers are in temper tantrum mode. They are starting to miss the 2021-2023 market where it was a sellers market, they could do whatever markups they wanted, and they had no haggling. Now we are getting back to pre-beer virus market, and it's a buyers market, however it's taking them time to adjust. Typically when I have a dealer with attitude or won't accept what I feel is a reasonable offer for the car (I feel like they are making something on it, but not a killing), I will just leave, give them my number if they change their mind, move on to next dealer.
Wow. So much information here thank you. I want to buy used RAV4 and I’m a first time buyer I don’t know anything about cars is there a way I can contact you for some question?
Sure, you can email me. cars@thecarguyonline.com or post back here if that's easier :).
Did you end up buying it? I am also trying to buy a used rav 4 right now. Any tips of how it went?
The key is dont negotiate at the dealership. Get a salespersons card and go home and take it from there.
I agree, almost every vehicle I buy you get a lot more leverage once you leave the dealership.
Negotiate via email/state you have a ton of 'feelers' out there and its the only way for you to keep track. We speak at closing POST any finalized negotiations, that's it. Hella easy to walk out on a potential deal from the comfort of your own space
Very, very informative. An enlightening beautiful at the very lease. Really appreciate the information and yes, you were correct. In every single word, thank you so much from our family to yours
How does the independent mechanic work? Do you fill out some paperwork or something and they let you take it to a mechanic’s shop or do you need to bring the mechanic to the dealership? Or……….?
Yeah, I had this question too. I don’t think many dealers will let you take it for inspection. I believe most will likely say no.. I would love to get his thoughts on this too…
Very helpful. Thank you
Thank you for your update and God bless you Sir
subbed love the step by step format your using, I'm in the market for a used 2021 Bmw M4 and a lot of these dealerships are still asking for High 60's Low 70's and I'm noticing many of them are sitting on the lot going on 60-90+ days , I imagine if I just wait a couple more months (around the summer time) since by then most of the tax refund money will have been spent by most people plus more and more leases are now ending since its a 2021 they will be going for mid to low 60s , I'd love your opinion on this thank you!
Your thought process is correct, higher stock and longer time sitting on lot should eventually equal savings, however it's tough to say if they will be motivated to move the M4s or not. Doing a quick search I only see 22 new M4s within 500 miles of me, that's a very low number, so even if they are sitting they might be stingy with them until they are absolutely forced to discount. In addition to that, BMW had a good 2023, we'll see how they do in 2024. We should be able to tell after first quarter sales numbers come out this year, if it looks like BMW is down in 2024 Q1 compared to 2023 Q1, then chances might be higher for summer deals, provided stock/time on dealer lot still says high enough. Given BMW prices, I'm not sure tax season will affect their sales or not, probably not as much as some of the more affordable brands.
Not sure I helped much but, I'll try to keep an eye out on the luxury brands as I move along. It's crazy, when you sent this comment, I was actually AT the BMW dealer today trying to film a new video, it was raining so I didn't get much video but, it was still fun.
@@TheCarGuyOnline No thank you it was a great help , but I do have a question I saw you say there was only 22 brand new ones in your area why would that effect the price of used ones specifically a 2021? I would think they would continue to drop significantly especially since the 2025 model will start to hit dealerships as the year goes on.
at 02:20 when you subtracted the advertised car value from the higher end trading price, would you exclude the sales tax and registration costs advertised
Very informative!! Thank you, sir ☺☺
hey! i'm looking at a used 2018 Audi Q7 Prestige selling for 20,500. it was a trade-in to the dealer - KBB trade-in value is between 16,500-20,077. even if i give benefit of the doubt that the dealer bought it for 20,000 from the previous owner, it seems unlikely they are willing to keep the car around and still sell it for 20,500. this makes me believe they got the Audi for a really low ball trade-in offer, guessing below the 16,500 minimum KBB value or right around the minimum.
do you think my educated guess would make sense or is correct? even if i ask them how much they bought the Audi for, i doubt they would truthfully tell me
thanks!
I would agree with you...with luxury used cars like Audi/BMW, folks generally trade them in and don't care what they get for trade. Lots of...upper middle class folks that just don't mind getting black book wholesale value. I would start as low as you can with a straight face and just work up...as long as you are nice/patient...you'll find where they are willing to sell.
@@TheCarGuyOnline i did your strategies in this video with the same Audi the other day. needless to say the dealer was pissed! it's one of those dealers that are known for being "professional" but i knew they didn't like that i was an informed buyer. i had the salesman acting dumb, saying the most ridiculous things i've never heard of such as "i can't make those out the door numbers for you. only my sales manager can do that.. and unfortunately my sales manager already left for the day." i offered 16,000 and even politely told them "i know a dealer needs to make profit so i'm willing to negotiate a price that works for both of us" and they still didn't budge. they only gave $500 off. i walked away.
In 2024? The best thing you can do is to not buy a new car at all. Or an RV or Motorhome. The prices have gone up again and it's only a matter of time before it all comes crashing down. Repos are at record numbers and dealerships are really in trouble, especially those who ripped people off during the pandemic. Auto Nation is pulling out of Stelantis completely. People don't forget these things. I remember when we had a flood and the local 7/11 was ripping everybody off. As soon as it was over they went bankrupt and no business ever survived in that building again. That was 30 years ago and it's still vacant. People don't forget when they've been ripped off.
The Car Guy Online is good! I like everything he said, but if you're buying a used car the very 1st thing you should do is have an independent mechanic that you trust (or another dealership's service dept) look over the condition of the vehicle AND tell you if it's been in an accident or not. Several times a car will be in an accident & the repairs are paid outside of insurance to save the resell value & KBB won't catch damage fixed out of pocket & the repair work will be completed as cheaply as possible. Once you determined the car is worth purchasing, then go through this exercise and use anything you see by the mechanic as negotiation power.
Buying cars sucks because you need be stern & sometimes a D-!-C-K so you don't get hosed by a bad price or lemon of a car.
Very good advice. It sucks to have to hold you ground in negotiations, it's uncomfortable at times, but people need to fight for their money!
This is awesome. I'm a fan from Australia!!!
Kbb trade in value is 19 to 21k and they are asking 18k before fees like dealer fee and plate transfer. I guess its a good deal
Can I do this at a new car dealership or nah? jw I never bought a car before and that would save me like $10,000
It really depends on the vehicle you are looking at. Some new cars currently are getting easier to negotiate because they have a lot of stock/supply. If you are looking at a new car that is in higher demand/lower supply, it will be harder to negotiate. Used vehicles will depend too, some dealers are "no haggle", and they try to have lower prices and lower profit margins per vehicle.
What sources do you use to figure vehicle invoice?
Edmunds has an invoice "estimator" but it's tough because option packages change everything. It will get you close. For example, on that Ford F150 XL, invoice is estimated around $41k, and then it has some options on top of that. There are other estimators but unless I had access to the dealerships actual financials, I'm not sure I 100% trust any of the "invoice" numbers from different data providers.
The best deal I obtained so far on the 2025 Camry LE AWD includes
10k down in cash
4.99 interest rate
72 month term (I'll probably pay it off earlier)
I had them discount msrp and add in the cold weather package (heated seats and wrapped heated steering wheel and more) and their convenience package.
They are promising me my payment will be $520 a month including all fees, taxes, interest, etc. which but with the 10k downpayment will lower my monthly payment.
Does that sound like a fair deal or a bad one?
Bad! It’s a Camry old men’s car
Great advice. Thank you so much. I’m going to try all those things, but I have one problem. I live in Florida and the car I want to make a deal on is in Des Moines, Iowa. So I have to fly to Iowa to even take a look at the car and check it out, which screams to the dealership that I really really want the car.
You can try to do all negotiations over email/phone, and just never say where you are from. They don't need to know until you get in the finance room or sign papers :).
I am such a doofus. Before I saw your video I called them, asked them how much it would be to ship to Florida and told them my name and gave them my email so he could send me a pic of the window sticker. I was planning on flying there Saturday morning to check out the car. I’m already financed with my credit union. I was going to make an offer at 3000 less than what they’re selling it for. And when they say no, just call an Uber and head back to the airport. I was thinking because it’s the end of the month, they won’t let me leave. I have print outs of 3 other cars with same year and mileage that are at least 3000 less.
@@kerrydrayton7963 I think you could still pull it off. You have a lot of leverage with other cars being less. I would go into the dealership with the other offers printed and ask them if they can match they don’t need to know who you are when you get there. and then you could just tell them that you’re actually visiting some relatives or something if they figure it out. lots of ways to play it like you don’t really need the car even though you flew there, intending to get it.
@@TheCarGuyOnlineproblem is a lot of car dealers CRM will detect the ping from an IP address. So to get around this 100% use a VPN
Man this video was SO helpful thanks a lot. I'm Pre-approved through my credit union any tips on leveraging that?
How would you find invoice price on new vehicle? Kelly blue book?
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
Can you use these tactics though when you want to finance a car or it’s better if you have the cash? I’m interested in a car but I have the 70% of the money for the price of the car. I need to get a car though because my car is breaking already and I want to trade it in but I don’t know if I should.
Is a prepurchase inspection necessary if you’re buying from a franchise official dealer for the make? Not a certified pre owned but still the same make as the franchise? Also if the car has been serviced there for 6 years
I would inspect myself but I’ve done a lot of mechanic work over the years. It depends on your comfort level. It’s always nice to get a second opinion from an independent mechanic if you aren’t sure.
What are the advantages of buying room a used car dealership as opposed to private? I always assumed there were none.
I have occasionally gotten good deals at dealers, but very rarely do you get a great deal. One advantage in buying from a dealer is tax. If you trade in a car that is worth $20,000 on a vehicle that is worth $30,000, you only pay tax on the difference of $10,000 instead of paying tax on the full amount, which closes the gap some, however that tax advantage is usually eroded by the low trade in values dealers give customers. I personally like selling my vehicles outright if I can, you almost always get more value but it's a pain and time consuming. Most deals run through dealerships nowadays unfortunately.
What if when you give them an offer they ask where you got that number from? Do I tell them straight up that I got an estimate of the car’s value on kelley bluebook and edmunds?? Love the vid btw!
If they ask, I would answer that question with a question. Say "how much would you give me on trade if this was my car?". They might turn red...and in fact, before I go in to the dealer, I usually call or email them and get some trade estimate for the car I'm considering buying from them. They'll ask what cars I'm interested in on their lot, just redirect them or tell them one of their new cars. Once they give you trade in value (estimate) of the car you are fictitiously trading in that matches the car they have for sale that you want, then you can use that as leverage and say "hey, you told me you'd only give X amount on that car, so why are you trying to sell it for Y". Leverage is everything. Not every dealer will move their price drastically but if you call/email enough, you'll find one that will. I expect the dealer to make some profit on the car over trade/wholesale value, but they don't need to be making $5,000+ on each transaction while screwing you.
Can you please tell me how to you get a reliable invoice value on a new vehicle? And is the "dealer freight" or "vehicle destination charge" a real customer cost and, therfore, non-negotiable? Dealers get new cars all the time. I can't imagine them paying an individual and high delivery fee on each one. The truthful answers to these questions would significantly level the playing field when purchasing a new vehicle. Thank you so much.
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thanks ever so much for the courtesy of a prompt reply. That was extraordinarily kind of you. Any thoughts on the validity / propriety of "doc" fees; that is, can they be negotiated away? If not, that's okay. I just don't know. Thanks again. You're a blessing and the best protection against the automotive industry pirates!!!
@@thomasc4777anything is negotiable in my opinion. You can ask for anything you want to be removed, the worst that can happen is they say no. Most dealerships aren’t willing to lose a deal over a couple hundred bucks unless the car is in high demand.
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thank you again. You're expertise is very much appreciated.
So when it comes to the out the door price, should we also take a consideration the dealership’s insurance prices for ex: the case of death or bumper to bumper coverage?
Thanks for your stream.
In your opinion, which date is it cheapest to purchase a new Honda?
1. Memorial day weekend
2. July 4th weekend
3. June 30, last day of month and last day of quarter, last day of calendar year
Thxs
In general, car deals will get better from August to January, I believe January is one of the best months to buy a car because it's one of the lowest sales months...but Aug-Jan are generally better than the rest of the year. Sometimes you can get good financing deals on 1/2/3, you'll have to check with Honda on this. Keep in mind, Honda and Toyota have the least amount of deals going compared to just about every other brand, mainly due to their reputation.
Good content. Thanks
This is a great and helpful video
What do you think of checking Edmunds as well as KBB?
I have a credit score of 825 and was quoted $590 a month on a 2025 Camry SE, 84 months with 5k down.
Does that sound fair or a rip off?
Thanks! I'm doing my due diligence but I'm still confused!!
Was looking at getting a newer Camry later next year but if that what you were actually quoted. That's real bad. MSPR is 20K below that quoted price.
Great advice ! Any tips on negotiating with a car that is “rare” ? Here in Canada B.C. looking at a 23’ Volkswagen atlas with 20,000 km. However it has the captains chairs (which we want) and have been waiting for months for one to come up in our area. It finally has but worried we won’t have much negotiation power due to how rare/ desired it is
Might seem dumb but I’m buying my first truck it’s 2023 sierra slt 1500 asking 47 you think they would be able to work down to 40 ?
It depends on the trim/engine/mileage/condition/accident history etc.... For the price, you might be able to get a lot better financing rate on a new one vs. used which makes a difference over time on a big note. It will also depend on your local area, how much competition there is, how in-demand trucks are etc.
What about doc fees , tent fees etc?
Been looking and can find some deals at $3-4k under msrp... but then they still want $1500 min for dealer add ons. So we walk and wait
Waiting is by far the best thing you can do. IMO, starting this month, we are going to begin seeing more desperation and deals from car dealerships. It will take some time, but if the markets keeping correcting the way they are, I would guess end of August - January will have a lot more buying opportunities than what we have seen so far in 2024 (for new). It will also depend heavily on what vehicle you are looking for. If it's a vehicle with low supply/high demand, deals will be harder to come by
Thanks for video... what if the dealer tells me the used car is from an auction and had two minir accidents? Does this reduce the price or give me any leverage?
If you are buying a used car that has 2 accidents reported, you need to try to determine what they were. Everyone says things were minor when they were not. Carfax may report minor, but you'd have to inspect the vehicle to see if they pulled the frame/re-welded things, if anything is out of alignment etc. It's very hard to rebuild a car properly when frame/subframe damage occurs. I personally try not to buy cars with accidents on the carfax/report, but if you do, yes it's a huge leverage point for you. Also knowing they bought at auction gives you leverage, you know they paid less than trade-in value for the vehicle, probably a lot less. IMO it reduces the value of the vehicle at least 1-2k under one that has not had an accident. If the title is "rebuilt", I would just steer clear...
Ask questions and always go through the numbers instead of just looking at the "breakdown" and accepting it all as their best offer.
Hey! I put a deposit down on a 2018 Honda civic EX of $200. I noticed it’s priced at $15,805 but the same vehicle just one year earlier at 2017 is priced at 13,898. About the same km’s only 10 thousand km difference. Should I leverage it? How do I get my deposit back if I back out the deal? No actual downpayment made yet. Anyone got any advice?
Yeah this was good man!
Isn't the delivery fee usually listed on the Maroney, not added as extra?
Delivery is always included on invoice for new cars, is this what you are asking? Used cars it's more negotiable (called dealer handling), if they recondition the car/clean it/inspect it etc.
Super helpful!
Dealership try to charge me an delivery fee, inspection fee, cleaning fee shouldn’t they already do this without an charge
Amazing video.
Hello sir, I watched your video yesterday and I’m really interested into better deals of buying suv for my family of 7.
I just wanted to buy used suv under 15k but I always get no deal or bad seller. I go there and checked the suv out and make an offer but They trying to screw me all the time. Is there any way you can help me? Thank you.
It will depend on what you are looking at. What SUVs are you looking at (Make/Model/Year)? It also depends on the price someone has it listed it. Some used cars now are still selling for way too much. The market is a bit backwards, new cars are on lots and they have financing deals whereas used cars actually went up in value over the past couple of months.
Great post and very informative. What are your thoughts on buying a low mileage rental vehicle? I.e. 30,000 miles
I've purchased rentals before and I've had friends that have as well, we haven't had issues. I'm pretty thorough when I check vehicles out so just try to take your time. Lookup the VIN on google and vehicle information checks, run a Carfax if they don't provide one, then check the body/paint/pull oil fill cap and see if engine has varnish or foamy looking oil, pull the dipstick and see if it's clean/brown or light color oil, look for leaks, look at the coolant level/color, if you can have them start the vehicle cold so you can see how it sounds/look at exhaust color, check under the car for damage and suspension, make sure tires are all the same brand and decent, look at rotors/brakes if you can....all typical checks I do on a used vehicle anyway but rentals can be a good value . Good luck :).
Couple things
* Did you take into account recon
* What if it wasn't a trade and they purchased it from auction which is generally higher
* also a 2015 with 40k on it is a very rare vehicle (they will charge more)
Dealer recon is pretty cheap, they use their own labor at cost, not at retail labor rates, they typically put cheap/garbage tires on that are 1/2 the cost of good tires etc. Recon is...a joke from 90% of dealers. Some do it correctly, but not many. Auction is typically cheaper to buy for dealers than a clean trade, so they might spend more on recon but they have less in the vehicle to start with. I don't mind if the dealer makes some profit, but they don't need to make $5-$8k on every transaction, which is what they shoot for.
What is the best way to find the invoice price on a new car?
Did you find out?
What about minor accidents that don't have any visible damage
minor on the carfax? I would try to get information on what it was/where the accident is located. Sometimes accidents on the rear or side of the car when minor are better, fewer electronics/engine parts etc. It would become a judgement call. Any car that might have an accident reported is worth having a second opinion from a mechanic, they can put it on a lift and verify with you that there's no frame damage/welding on frame or other issues that may not be minor, but were reported as such.
@@TheCarGuyOnline good thing I did research. dealer has a history of getting nasty with costumers, yelling at them, lying about records and selling vehicles with bad engines.
Shouldnt the handling fee be already embedded into the asking price ?
Looks like they was still tryng to hose u $700 plus
Yeah handling fees are always negotiable. IMO, they shouldn't exist, dealers should just set the asking price of the car. Dealers do their best to buy low, sell high, then tack on whatever fees they can and try to wear you down.
If I ain’t running the deal there is no deal. That goes for everything not just vehicles.
Great video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
How does one _get_ the invoice value of a vehicle? Dealers would keep this kind of info very hush-hush, wouldn't they?
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
Can you use theses same tactics with a new car? In terms of the Kelly Blue Book value?
Usually on a new car I try to use edmunds to find invoice pricing. I use invoice to negotiate. I don't buy new cars much anymore, too much depreciation, I'd recommend getting something that is 1-2 years old with 20-30k miles and save the $20k in depreciation :).
Ok, so I looked uo a mazda 6 I'm interested in buying and the kbb trade in value came in right at the listing price from the dealer. What does this mean and how do you think I should proceed?
As a simple exercise, I like to call the dealer that has the car and see if I can get a ballpark trade in over the phone for the vehicle that I'm interesting in buying. Generally dealers will tell you some ballpark/non-exact trade in value if you can give them the year/trim/mileage. You can then use this to determine close to what they had to give for the vehicle you are looking to buy, unless they got it from auction in which case they paid much less for it. Currently, auction cars are going for a lot less than they used to and used cars are coming down as well. This gives me a starting point. How much are they asking for the Mazda vs. KBB Trade-in value?
@@TheCarGuyOnline that's why I'm so confused. The original owner bought and maintained the car from the dealership that is now selling it. They are listing the price about 1k over the KBB trade in value.
@@TheCarGuyOnline p.s. Thank you for the reply!
@@jg-wb3vm Did they provide a carfax, clean with no accidents etc.? Is it a model that has known issues or anything weird, or a model that has high supply/low demand? Sometimes dealers just want to get rid of cars instead of sending them to auction. Sometimes, if a car has higher miles they just want to turn it quickly, really depends on the situation. Without more details/info, I couldn't tell you much more. You can email me if you'd like, cars AT thecarguyonline DOT com.
@@TheCarGuyOnline appreciate it. I tried the email but it says for me to enter a valid one. It's a 2018 mazda 6 signature with 30k miles selling for 22k and some change. Clean carfax and fro. The dealership that originally sold it.
Thanks for expert help.
Where can i find the website link
Great video! When you offer them the high trade in value, does this include taxes? Or do you mention that you want taxes and all the other BS fees included in your offer?
I usually assume I will pay taxes and D&H...then I pay nothing else. Some dealers don't have D&H, if they don't I might come up a little off high trade. I actually JUST bought a 2020 Tesla Model 3 with this same method. I paid high trade in value (including D&H), then got another $4000 off that price due to IRS credit. I had to call/email about 5 dealers but found one that was really wanting to deal. In this case it worked because Hertz flooded the market with rental Teslas (mine wasn't a rental), but it helped bring up supply which helps the buyer with leverage. It's always situational, some dealers won't budge of a car/truck is rare or there's high demand/no stock, but you get the idea.
where can I get the invoice price?
Thanks for this video and the comments/discussion below - should be helpful later this year. At least I won't respond with "oh, ok..." :)
Glad it was helpful!
How do you negotiate for a brand new car
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
How do you find the invoice (not MSRP) price for a new vehicle?
I usually look on Edmunds, you can find invoice there for new vehicles but you have to consider options. So it gives you a nice starting point, then just add on the options from there. Sometimes you'll see "invoice with options" too. help.edmunds.com/hc/en-us/articles/360020890413-How-to-find-TMV-Invoice-Pricing-on-Edmunds
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thank you. I was able to do the research, get an estimated invoice price, and an Edmunds estimated offer price. Based on the research, I was able to calculate my own offer prices (initial, counter, and second counter/final (if needed)) in advance of my going into the dealership. Given the popularity of the model of the car, I was reasonable in my offer and it was accepted. I gave them profit, but I came in 2,000 under MSRP before an additional 3000 manufacture rebate, so I saved 5,000 under MSRP. The dealership still made money and I walked away feeling that I wasn’t a complete putz for agreeing to MSRP. Thanks for the advice.
@@OlsenTheWonderDog That's awesome. Most people don't like negotiating so they just take whatever the dealer gives them. Sounds like you got a good deal. What did you end up getting?
@@TheCarGuyOnlineWe ordered a BMW X3 xDeive30i with metallic paint, premium, parking assistance, and driver assistance packages, and other interior options. We came in 5000 below MSRP. Both Edmunds and True Car/Consumer Reports suggested we got a good deal. So, we are happy with it.
@@TheCarGuyOnline I also used timing as an advantage to bolster ny negotiating posture. I waited towards the latter part of the month, but not too late in the month, so that the dealership and salesperson could make a sale to meet their respective monthly quota. I also scheduled my dealership visit in the late afternoon but close to the closing time so that the protracted negotiation would butt up against the dealership closing hour and the salesperson and sales manager might be inclined to accept my offer in order to make the sale before they closed for the evening.
Is there a way to get the invoice price from a dealers website or do you have to ask the dealer usually?
There are many sources for invoice amounts. Kelly Blue Book, Edmunds, and more. Or ask the dealer. An ethical dealer should have no issues showing you the invoice.
But understand invoice is not what the dealer pays for the vehicle. They pay less. There is holdback (percentage of MSRP), floor planning assistance, and various incentives from the manufacturer resulting in dealers paying much less than invoice.
This is why dealers often sell at or even below invoice.
If the car is a so-called "certified pre-owned", doe that shift the dynamic in any way?
I think it depends on the vehicle. To give an example, if they are selling a certified Toyota Camry (non-turbo) as certified, but it only has 30k miles on it, I'm not really sure how much the certified piece of mind is worth because the Camry still has 30k left on powertrain from manufacturer, and it will probably go 200k with no issues and regular maintenance. If you are talking about a different scenario like...Audi/BMW/Some other less reliable or high cost of ownership vehicle, then it might be worth having a longer certified warranty.
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thanks for the response!
What prompted my question is that I've been looking at a certified 2020 Subaru Forester Sport. They're asking about $26,500 (which KBB called a "good deal"). Looking up the VIN on KBB as you suggested gave a trade-in estimate of about $21,500 to $23,700. This is much less of a markup than I expected, so I'm wondering how much leverage I can actually apply. Thanks again!
@@kenweller2032you might be correct in that there isn’t much wiggle room in that deal. You can check the local market in your area to compare… haggling gets pretty tough if they are already one of the best prices around.
All good points and strategies, thankyou. Any truth to ordering a new vehicle helping in reducing the normal markups/adjustments that so many vehicles already on the lot seem to come with? I've this about Ford and always wondered if there was any truth to it?
When ordering new vehicles you have less leverage IMO. Usually reserved for those that don't mine paying higher prices to get exactly what they want. You would be much better off trying to locate something that has been sitting on a lot for a while, or previous model year unsold...to get a great deal on new. You can check edmunds.com for invoice pricing on a lot of new vehicles, that is one of the only resources I've seen invoice pricing.
well done thank you
Dope!
Independent inspection is a great suggestion but most are booking 2-4 weeks out. Good luck arranging that. Just saying
Isn't getting the car ready for sale usually figured into thier selling price
Yes. Dealers will have their used car, service department inspect the vehicle and perform a smog inspection . There's the standard used vehicle, and there's certified used vehicles. The year model and mileage determine if a vehicle can be sold as a certified vehicle. That's because the dealer pays for the designation. The vehicle will come with a limited warranty that is backed by the manufacturer, and a certified vehicle can be eligible for lower financing rates than a regular used vehicle. The standards for a certified vehicle are set by the manufacturer. It's their inspection sheet that has to be followed.
What about with g wagon 63 2025
How do you find the invoice price on a new car? IMPORTANT TO ME, THANK YOU
Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
this was some good information
Glad you liked it. It doesn't work every time but it's a good foundation to not get hosed at dealerships. I always just change dealerships if the tactics don't work.
I politely requested a price of a car and they wrote back. What do I say to this?:
Here at (dealership) we provide you with the very best price right upfront on every pre-owned vehicle and call it negotiation hassle-free SMART pricing. Therefore the Smart price on the 2020 Subaru Legacy is $22,468.
The vehicle is also (dealership name) and with (dealership name) certification you can have peace of mind knowing that you have purchased a safety-checked vehicle and that our well-qualified technicians have diagnosed and performed any required service to the vehicle. If after 5 days you decide this is not the vehicle for you you can return it for a full refund of your money. If you do not feel this is the right vehicle for you after 30 days you can exchange it for another vehicle here on the lot.
Check KBB for an estimate of the retail price of the vehicle. If you decide to buy, make sure the actual contract does not contain anything limiting the return policy noted. Never trust a car dealer as to anything they say or do. Verify everything.
I want to do this but with a brand new car, Acura rdx… so you tell them you want to pay the approx. trade in value price?
With new cars, you need to try to figure out or approximate invoice. Invoice pricing is hard to get reliably on new vehicles because dealers are hard to trust. You can ask dealers for invoice on a vehicle, but chances are it won't be a truthful invoice. Edmunds.com has the best "invoice estimator" that I have found, everything else feels like speculation to me. Negotiating new cars vs. pre-owned you will have to use different tactics. There are some common things like, supply, that affect the price. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is in high demand, new or used, it will be a lot harder to negotiate. If you are trying to buy a vehicle that is not selling well, new or used, you have more leverage as a buyer. The destination charges I never care about that much, I just work my prices as "selling price plus tax/fees", no more. Many people don't want to shop dealers, or shop dealers against dealers because it takes time. I try to do as much of this via email as possible to save time, get dealers to try to beat one another..and I don't have to waste time driving somewhere. Once I narrow down to a dealer that feels like they want to move metal more than others, I will go in and drive the car/negotiate more in person which is where you get the most attention from them. Always be willing to leave, wait a day, a week or whatever. Most manufacturers now don't have supply chain issues or stock problems, there are exceptions on some models but, it's becoming a buyers market in 2024.
How should I handle ‘conveyance fee’?
What are they charging a convenience fee for? I would just tell them you want it removed. It depends on what it is...if it's $!5, probably not worth fighting, if it's hundreds it probably is.
Thanks a lot for sharing this video I was wondering if there was an email to reach out for your expert advice. I am negotiating for an Audi Q7 2021 ( 12000 miles) at an Audi dealership. We negotiated ( I just tried using some of your tips) from 47 K Out of the door price to 43 K. I am wondering if I still landed a good deal. Any guidance here will be really appreciated ( KBB has different values for dealer price/ individual price). Should I do further negotiation as we havent signed the check yet.
Sorry for missing this, it has been 3 weeks so I assume you may have purchased by now :). $42k seems like that's on the lower end of what they are selling for, even nationwide (3 weeks after you posted this). www.cars.com/shopping/results/?dealer_id=&include_shippable=true&keyword=&list_price_max=&list_price_min=&makes[]=audi&maximum_distance=all&mileage_max=13000&models[]=audi-q7&monthly_payment=&page_size=20&sort=list_price&stock_type=all&year_max=&year_min=2021&zip=80504
Some of the pricing will depend on options/trim level too...but in general it seems like $42k is better priced than most. I'm at cars AT thecarguyonline DOT com if you want to email me :).
@@TheCarGuyOnline Thank you for your response! I missed this deal. I was late by a couple of hours and they went ahead and sold the car. Will reach out for your advice as I finalize the next one.
Does this offer for trade in work for not paying in full?
Not sure what you mean here, can you elaborate on your question?
Question: I'm looking at a 2024 Compass fully loaded originally $33,2k with 45miles on it. I saw the car this Friday. They gave me OTD $37,514 which MSRP was $38,335. I wasn't feeling that price because im pre approved with Navy fed for $37k and I'm not trying to use the whole thing on the car. Something told me to wait and i just checked the site again the car dropped $850 @ $31,268 now with dealer discounts at $7,067. Car has been on the lot for 276 days as of today.
My question is, what is the best negotiation tactic to get the car for $32k or $33,5k OTD with tax/title/fee? They told me since im pre-approved, that I lost out on $2-$2,5k on discounts on the car since finance was through dealer for $5,067 on dealer discounts. This isn't my 1st car, I have a 2015 Dart I bought brand new and paid off in 2021 w/title but I'm not trading it in as that will be my daily due to the 183k miles.