Just did the roof on one the exact color and the exact same process. I couldn’t imagine doing it any other way. Hyundai has decided to recall and compensate for repairs done. Reimbursed the customer 2 weeks after the repair. Helped that I documented the damage and repair with the invoice. Love the videos brother. Great quality. Enjoy the back ground music even.
Over 30 years ago the local PPG store instructed me to use Epoxy primer on all bare metal, then proceed with anything on top from filler to color. It has always worked flawlessly. These days I use SPI epoxy primer, though. I feel the PPG epoxy lost too much when it lead and chromate free. Thanks for all your videos, your work is inspiring.
Love this channel and your work candy man every days a school day watching the candy man. Keep the vids coming. Love to know do you ever tint your your primer sealer to improve coverage.
Interesting video Kandy Man, doing it this way you have eliminated a lot of work with the 2k high build then all the block work and re-masking involved, came out looking mint🙏🙏👍John UK
Definitely the best way to do it with epoxy, etching it and 2k primer would not give better results plus a load more work and a risk of some ripples. I don’t like etch primer I’ve seen issues with it with adhesion Doing it with epoxy as wet on wet will give it the best adhesion and rust protection, like you said it does take longer to cure Lovely job 👍
Thanks for this video. I also used epoxy primer like this but I was too dumb to figure out not to spray it directly over Bondo/filler. I had some bleed through. The filler will react to the epoxy. 2k over filler spots then epoxy over everything else. Learned to use epoxy as a sealer from another channel but he didn't explain all the details.
Thats how I was dealing with Ford crown vic's in the fleet. I would usually chemical strip as I could go do something else why it did its thing. I would spot prime any body work and then seal and paint. If there was no bodywork I could strip and paint the same day. For any panel on the side I would razor blade until I found where it stuck.
@MrSloika Last time I tried chemical stripper it was slow. I do not run into peeling oem paint much anymore. The fleet I repair is not white anymore. When I worked at GM in the 90's I would use 8" 80 grit on the grinder. Would prime and sand. Best might be razor blade now.
Nice work, what is the final grit used to smooth out the bare metal, and would you recommend using mesh da discs to prepare the bare metal for sealer?.
Only problem with this method is the epoxy cures at a much slower rate than the urethane clear. Looks great at first, then when epoxy cures, pinches up the clear, creating nasty texture. I use etch, then urethane sealer for bare metal peelers. Not a hater, just my experience with DP's
I spray Ultra BC8. The rep said I can spray the 995 etch primer over bare metal, let flash for 20 minutes and then move right into the P30 sealer, base, clear.
Hey Kandy Man, I am an engineering student that is interested in painting my vehicles. I know that good painting skills and knowledge come with time and experience, but I was wondering if there are any resources that you suggest to study, like any specific books or documents, etc? I enjoy your videos, thank you for all the content and information!
Sometimes on certain bare metal surfaces, I will etch primer like 1-2 coats then put sealer over that, then apply my base color. I’ve not had any problems doing this way but, maybe I’ll start epoxying bare metal from now on. Any ideas on my process, let me know & thank you!!
That technique is fine, but the etch primer works better when it is applied with a light coat that you can see trough. I tested it out the more you put the less adhesion
Great video. Thanks!!! Question: If I strip the panel(s) to bare metal and have some minor bodywork to do, do you recommend I put filler DTM or should I use the epoxy first, then filler, then another coat of epoxy?
hello, my question is who and what kind of paint should I use to paint my paint booth I striped to the modal it is galvanized. can I use the same paint as what you were using on this job?
@Kandy Man gotcha! Anytime I do a job like this, I usually go epoxy, sealer, base, and then clear. I'm gonna have to try this. My theory was that the envirobase wouldn't adhere to the epoxy as good as it does to the sealer.
OMNI never impressed me. I use Rubber-Seal and I like it better. For removing the paint it's hard to beat the Eastwood SCT (or Harbor Freight equivalent) and the coarse stripping wheel that looks like Scotchbrite on steroids.
This is a TOP
NOTCH Paint channel. Performing Top Tier Paint Work. Ladies and Gentleman. This is how it is done.
👊👊
Bro your now getting the recognition you truly deserve you put out some lovely work 👊👊👊
Best way to do it for sure. Great explanation brother!
Dropping gems thank you for all your tips much love!
Thank you
Thanks for explaining everything so well. Im a hobbyist. My Chevelle is almost ready for paint. Im nervous but can't wait.
Great tips and info 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Just did the roof on one the exact color and the exact same process. I couldn’t imagine doing it any other way. Hyundai has decided to recall and compensate for repairs done. Reimbursed the customer 2 weeks after the repair. Helped that I documented the damage and repair with the invoice. Love the videos brother. Great quality. Enjoy the back ground music even.
Great work and video bro 💪
Great video and information. Thank you.
Awesome work you do , wish you were here in Philadelphia Pa. My caddy needs to be painted
Over 30 years ago the local PPG store instructed me to use Epoxy primer on all bare metal, then proceed with anything on top from filler to color. It has always worked flawlessly. These days I use SPI epoxy primer, though. I feel the PPG epoxy lost too much when it lead and chromate free.
Thanks for all your videos, your work is inspiring.
Thank you for your story and support 👍
Love this channel and your work candy man every days a school day watching the candy man. Keep the vids coming.
Love to know do you ever tint your your primer sealer to improve coverage.
I was doing that when i used solvent can't mix the water base with it . And I only have dark gray white and gray sealer. But yes that is the way to go
Interesting video Kandy Man, doing it this way you have eliminated a lot of work with the 2k high build then all the block work and re-masking involved, came out looking mint🙏🙏👍John UK
Best and fastest and less expensive 👌
Lol @ "peeler job". That describes my 2002 Nissan Navara ute perfectly. Big patches delaminated apparently due to e-coat/primer issues.
Definitely the best way to do it with epoxy, etching it and 2k primer would not give better results plus a load more work and a risk of some ripples. I don’t like etch primer I’ve seen issues with it with adhesion
Doing it with epoxy as wet on wet will give it the best adhesion and rust protection, like you said it does take longer to cure
Lovely job 👍
That epoxy primer lays down really nice!!! I might like this channel more than Paint Society. Don't tell Brian i said that!!!
Haha same here ! it was one of Brian's lessons that put me on to kandy man channel
Yes sir I just painted a.r.e fiberglass Tonna cover.I used ure chem epoxy sealer and used Napa crossfire base coat and fc720 clear coat
Nice
I don't paint cars but I'm sold on epoxy. I'll recommend this to my body shop next time.
Thanks for this video. I also used epoxy primer like this but I was too dumb to figure out not to spray it directly over Bondo/filler. I had some bleed through. The filler will react to the epoxy. 2k over filler spots then epoxy over everything else. Learned to use epoxy as a sealer from another channel but he didn't explain all the details.
Hello, could you please tell me what the 2k is that is put over filler spots???? If so thank you very much for your help on this
Make sure you let it cure well before sanding. If not it will shrink too much.
I use etch then wet on wet. Then the basecoat.
POPPIN ' !!!
Thats how I was dealing with Ford crown vic's in the fleet. I would usually chemical strip as I could go do something else why it did its thing. I would spot prime any body work and then seal and paint. If there was no bodywork I could strip and paint the same day. For any panel on the side I would razor blade until I found where it stuck.
Absolutely 👌
What kind of chem stripper are you using now since methylene chloride was banned from paint strippers?
@MrSloika Last time I tried chemical stripper it was slow. I do not run into peeling oem paint much anymore. The fleet I repair is not white anymore. When I worked at GM in the 90's I would use 8" 80 grit on the grinder. Would prime and sand. Best might be razor blade now.
Nice work, what is the final grit used to smooth out the bare metal, and would you recommend using mesh da discs to prepare the bare metal for sealer?.
180 grit da
great time and money saving tip
Only problem with this method is the epoxy cures at a much slower rate than the urethane clear. Looks great at first, then when epoxy cures, pinches up the clear, creating nasty texture. I use etch, then urethane sealer for bare metal peelers. Not a hater, just my experience with DP's
Have not had that problem
Let it dry for 30 min before you put your base on
In time it will show it self. You don’t see the vehicle after 6 months to a year.
I spray Ultra BC8. The rep said I can spray the 995 etch primer over bare metal, let flash for 20 minutes and then move right into the P30 sealer, base, clear.
Yes that will work out but not a fan of the etches finish nothing is better than epoxy on bare metal
How’d you like the Omni ? I literally just ordered it yesterday hoping I like the way it covers an lays down. I’ve never used it.
Worked great 👍
Did you use acetone as a reducer? That’s what the data sheet said but not sure if you used something else instead. Thanks!!
👍
So the best way to "Paint a car directly over bare metal" is to not paint directly over bare metal but to epoxy prime it first. Got it 👍
👌
Hey Kandy Man, I am an engineering student that is interested in painting my vehicles. I know that good painting skills and knowledge come with time and experience, but I was wondering if there are any resources that you suggest to study, like any specific books or documents, etc? I enjoy your videos, thank you for all the content and information!
You tube has plenty of good stuff find some good channels and soak it in
You’re at the right place td 2791😊 JR
Sometimes on certain bare metal surfaces, I will etch primer like 1-2 coats then put sealer over that, then apply my base color. I’ve not had any problems doing this way but, maybe I’ll start epoxying bare metal from now on. Any ideas on my process, let me know & thank you!!
That technique is fine, but the etch primer works better when it is applied with a light coat that you can see trough. I tested it out the more you put the less adhesion
But the best is epoxy on bare metal
How many coats of epoxy primer you put on bare metal?
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🙌🏼🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
👍👍👍
How about dtm2 K mixed as sealer painted during the open coat window
Not sure about the product specs
Free school forget technical school
Kandy how much did you reduce the omni? I believe spec is 10%.....wondering if you did more than 10?
10%
what did you spray over that bit of bodywork you guys did prior?
Etch 2k
Well it’s seems like quicker than conventional paint process. But how much less expensive thank regular paint.price wise?
Faster and cheaper and better
If you’re using DTM epoxy is the etch wipe really necessary?🤔Great info we do this with many of the Toyota warranty work we get
Can't hurt
Absolutely can hurt. Read the TDS on the epoxy. Most recommend NOT to use etch under them.
Great video. Thanks!!!
Question: If I strip the panel(s) to bare metal and have some minor bodywork to do, do you recommend I put filler DTM or should I use the epoxy first, then filler, then another coat of epoxy?
The best way is epoxy first then filler
hello, my question is who and what kind of paint should I use to paint my paint booth I striped to the modal it is galvanized. can I use the same paint as what you were using on this job?
Yes .I would epoxy than single stage it with a good urethane
thank you Do you have any recommendations on paint?@@kandyman5315
When you say "wet on wet" epoxy primer, does that mean you to 2 coats back to back?
One coat of sealer wet on wet means no sanding flash off and go right to base coat
@Kandy Man gotcha! Anytime I do a job like this, I usually go epoxy, sealer, base, and then clear. I'm gonna have to try this. My theory was that the envirobase wouldn't adhere to the epoxy as good as it does to the sealer.
yep
If you took all the paint off what is those dark spots?
That's were the galvaneel is gone
What reducer was used slow,medium,
Medium
What did you use to strip it down to bare metal?
Razor blades then da sander
@@kandyman5315 what grit would u recommend? Is that what you did to strip that cutlass?
What causes the factory paint peel?
Not enough paint
Must have taken lot of sandpaper to do that.
Not really Festool works great
remember you have to let the primer sit 20 minuts after its mixed before you spray it, this is what i do as well epoxy way to go/.
That does apply for certain epoxys👍
Crac sent me
What is better ppg omni or ppg shopline just asking because in my area i have access to both products
Omni worked great
Ive always heard you couldn't put base directly over expoxy dtm. Guess its not true
👍
OMNI never impressed me. I use Rubber-Seal and I like it better. For removing the paint it's hard to beat the Eastwood SCT (or Harbor Freight equivalent) and the coarse stripping wheel that looks like Scotchbrite on steroids.
Have not tried sct looks like it works well
There Omni products are crap!!
Won't even consider them will only use certain ahop line products.
Not a fan of there paint but this product works well