Thank you so much. I repaired the washing machine with the replacement of the main control board after watching your video. I am happy that I was able to repair it myself, thanks to your help.
Awesome video for those of us that like to DIY. My 550 started to relay click at about 4-6 seconds between. Unplugging and reset worked for a couple of washes, but it wouldn't spin out properly. Couldn't get the board to go into diagnostic mode. Checked the output to the inverter, 3.x VAC. Just like on the video. Pump windings 20 Ohms, no burns or melted components around the triac, so I bought the control board from Ben's. Got it yesterday, and have run loads with no issues! Thanks so much!
Месяц назад
We have the GE GFW850SSN1WW model (only 3 years old). It would turn on but turn off very shortly after and was clicking roughly every 10 secs. We ordered the control board and inverter and my husband was able to fix it with the help of your video. It was the inverter for us but decided to change out the control board with the new updated part just to be safe. (keeping the old one for backup). We saved a lot of money by doing this! Thank you so much! Hope this continues to help others.
I have the 850. This video helped me to Diagnose and repair. I bought the board , inverter, and pump from Ben. Only needed the board and the other two items will stay on the shelf if ever needed. Thank you for the content and the sale!
You sir are living proof that not all heroes wear capes! Bad board, 19.9 resistance on the pump. Purchased the board and a pump from your links. Ordered on Tuesday and received it on Thursday! Fixed Thursday 10/10 would recommend. Can’t thank you enough 🍻
This video helped me to easily diagnose that the main board was faulty and remove it. Ben provides accurate info and links to purchase the correct parts (less than Amazon!) and I was easily able to replace the main board and get this GE Washer back up and running without paying and waiting for a repair man. Grateful to you Ben for making these vids sending the parts without ripping off people. Cheers Bro ! Wishing you continued success and good karma
Thank you so much for making these videos Bens Appliances. I have that same front loader GE washer and the pump failed after 2 years. I went through all your trouble shooting videos and ended up buying both a new pump and new control board. I was able to fix it myself and for under $200 in parts from your store. Thank you so much!
This was an excellent video. I watch it as it explained the relay clicking sound as the control board. I replaced the board which was made during Covid. Perfect.
Fantastic video! I have the 10 second relay click and your video is the ONLY information I could find! It just sucks for me because I have the dryer stacked on top so that’s going to be a major chore. The other thing is that if these boards suck (which they obviously do since we bought this unit 2 years ago) then replacing it with the same board just makes me think it’ll fail again so maybe we should be considering another washer altogether.
Thank you so much for this video and the board I needed!!! I can’t thank you enough. I had our washer back up and running in 4days, 2 of those days were from USPS delays.
Thank you for doing this video! We recently purchased this model, and your step-by-step guide and amazing detail will come in handy in the future if it ever breaks. Your videos are so detailed and practical. Thank you for your work!
Thanks for excellent video. I have GE Front load washer Model GEW550SPN0DG ( 4 year old) which all of sudden stop spinning and all washing cycle stop in 4 to 5 minutes. It shows error code 3, 27, 38, 32 and 65. I did test 10 (Pressure Sensor) which seems working. Soil LED blink and stop all for indicator (i.e., Extra Light to Extra Heavy) Test 14 (Spin). Basket stopped spinning after 4 to 5 seconds. I replaced Accelerometer (WH03X32138) but it did not solve the issue. Does Hall sensor and Accelerometer are same part for Model GEW550SPN0DG? Test 24 (Damper). Soil level “Light” LED continues blink during test and when press start/pause button it changes to “Extra Light” and stay there until press any other button or Power off. I am not sure whether it’s successful test or not. Does it suppose to start with “Light” and change to “Extra Light” and stop at the end of the test automatically. Appreciate your help.
Great video! Is the door latch ever the issue? I can get to the code but they don't do anything when press "start" - I don't here the door lock attempt at all... also, the clicks are quick (less then 2 seconds), and then if I wait it is between 30-40 seconds before they click again. Any thoughts?
Hi Ben, Thank you for putting all this together. I have a GFW650 that looks just like the one in this video. During a wash, it did not spin out or drain the water. I found your video on diagnostics and ran the washer in diagnostic mode. The drain pump works and was able to drain out the water, but the spin mode 14 and tumble mode 15 did not do anything. I ordered the inverter board from your site and replaced it today. I tested the washer in diagnostic mode and I'm still not getting a spin. Any recommendations?
a dozen calls with the manufacturer, multiple of their outsourced 'techs', and many hours of applying all 3 of my IQ points to trying to self diagnose - but the snapshot of your board with the harness labels was the missing puzzle piece of what I needed to figure it out. ty for sharing this info and doing it in an accessible and understandable way. #righttorepair and F you GE
Thanks SO MUCH for the video! I'm gonna perform these to determine my cause hopefully tomorrow, but for now the kiddo won't let me do much. I have the 850 model. Pump stopped working properly (I would hear squeaky noises from the drain hose but not the usual gurgle). Now I don't have a regular 6 or 10 second clicking interval, but it shuts off after I start any cycle within a few seconds without starting anything. The app keeps sending me SmartDispenser is empty notifications every minute or so if the unit is plugged but low tank light is off from the main unit (and the tank is full). Wondering if you have had any experience with the weird app notifications and what could have caused this.
Ok, it was the board. YOU ARE A HERO! Many thanks! I was able to confirm the issue was the main board and not the inverter following your tips. Much gratitude! By the way, I think the link for viewers to send tips should be more visible and you should mention it in your videos. Absolutely nothing to shy from. Your videos ARE valuable so many will be glad to give.
Hello, thank you for the videos you make, I always watch them. I have a problem with a washing machine similar to this model GFW650SSN0WW, the problem is that it does not turn on at all and I did the diagnosis so I thought the only option is the bad Control Board. I ordered the new Control Board but the same problem continues. Do you think I have to contact GE to activate the new Control Board?
There are 2 choices. 1) The power going to the unit is not getting there. Cord is bad, outlet is bad, ect. 2) The User Interface is bad. For #1 test voltage going into board, or at wall. Should be 120 VAC going to board. For #2, check wires going to UI from board. I can't remember the pinout offhand, but it should be appearent when you see the control board. It should either be 5 VDC or 12 VDC. If you can confirm that, and no response from powering on, the UI is bad.
I just tested the board where the inverter plugs in and it only showed 1-5v directly on the board (I couldn’t get a reading through the wire). My relay click is every 30 seconds though so I don’t want to buy a board if it is necessary. Lights are flashing and the board is getting 120v from power. I’ve also torn apart and checked the pump which seems fine. Do you think it would be the board? Machine shuts off every 30 seconds and won’t run. Codes fired are 3,26,36,39,66,92.
This is why I bought a brand new GE washer, so I wouldn't have any more problems with my old one. Says right on the front 10-year warranty. Mine hasn't lasted more than 3 years before having to deal with this bull crap. Warranty or not I'm pissed off.
my less than year old 650 washer, like this one, randomly says complete cycle after a few minutes or so, randomly. I get notifications on my phone also. I make sure to stand there and verify the door lock actually locks before I walk away. It seems to have something to do with the door lock and I open the door and firmly close it again and it will work then.
morning Ben I have a GFW550SSN0WW, that started only running for a few minutes and then displays "end" It seems as though it is going thru the start of the cycle fills a short spurt, tumbles for a cpl seconds, fills a short spurt, tumbles the other way back and forth for about 2-3 minutes and then just stops and says "End" Doesn't matter the setting, or size of load, even tried it empty, does the same thing no matter what. I tried pulling up error codes using your videos Consumer method didn't display anything, I could hear relays tripping once, and then again after about 10 or so seconds, then it just stopped and didn't do anything else. Used your technician method and I was able to pull up a whole slew of error codes: 70, 3, 27,26, 39, 46, and 19. According to reddit posts and some other posts online, it looks like the symptoms are pointing towards a failing/failed motor invertor board and or main control board. Would you mind weighing in an recommending the right path to further diagnose?
I have the same question. The drain pump doesn’t make any humming noise even after replacing the pump on test #12. Next steps I’m just replacing both inverter and circuit board since GE has new versions of those on their website. Washer spins and fills fine though so it may not be the inverter but just precaution.
@@Tx03edge The issue was the water was not draining, the drain pump was not making any noise even after replacing pump. So I replaced both inverter and control board and that fixed it. Don't know which fixed it to be exact prob control board.
Hi. I have a washer like this and it displays h2o supply. Ive check to make sure i have water pressure. I even replaced the inlet valves. But it still displays that error. I checked the diagnostic and its saying the pressure valve. How would i test if it is bad.
Help please!!!! I am getting 0v for the inverter plug. My washer keeps trying to start a load on its own after turned on!!!! Im thinking it’s the inverter but would the inverter cause the user interface to be faulty as well?
Hi Ben, hoping you see this. My washer has no reaction to when i press the power button. Confirmed breaker is not tripped and 120v coming out of the outlet. Im looking at my control board and am not seeing any leds lit and just hearing a constant high pitch eletronic noise coming from the contrll baord. Could you help me? Im leaning towards bad control board but was wodnering if inveter baord would have anything to do with this
Hmm. So according to the schematic only the 850 and above models have the fan in the front vent. Does this mean those models run a shorter ultrafresh vent cycle since they can force air through the machine, or is it the standard 8 hour run of cycling the drum on and off for 15 minutes? Edit: According to the service manual, apparently not. It’s literally only used for the 1 step wash and dry cycle.
Thank you Ben...I have this washer but so far I haven't had an issue with it except the app for it keeps losing contact with the washer. Kind of a worthless app.
Mines a 650 and I looked at my pics from about a year ago and sure enough that triac is what went on my board. I thought the board took the pump out as I had no obstruction. I replaced both and all good. I have a squealing noise coming from the inlet valves. Replacing the valves will be easy. Pulling the machine out not so easy. lol I have the new valves waiting to be installed. As I am typing SmartHQ is updating the washer.
Crazy. I did shoot a water valve test & replacement video for this, so that'll be up soon on the channel! I also filmed an interter diagnostic video that I'll release later as well. I just had SO many people ask about this washer and issues with replacing the pump but it still being dead, so I hunted for a broken one of these to film.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Awesome I will be looking for the inverter video. You forgot to post a link for the tool. I used your previous method with the wrench and wire ties. I know which tool it is but if you sell it I would rather buy it from you or at least use an affiliate link so you get something out of it. Thanks for the videos. SmartHQ updated my washer, dryer and DW today. lol We have the second to top tier model Monogram DW. Over the third rack is a clip for a sprayer. That clip is horribly welded to the top of the tub. Ours came loose and it was catching the third rack. I bought stainless epoxy and basically glued it back into position. This stuff is high temp rated. It worked great just in case you ever run into that.
@@bensappliancesandjunkI’d be curious to know if there’s a way to have the valves shut a little more gently? Just watching the machine fill you can see the hoses jump when it shuts the valves. (Which of course it has to do many times instead of doing one continuous fill). Not really worried about the water hammer on the plumbing, but concerned it may not help the longevity of the hoses.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Just finished my inlet valve replacement. Those little double wire hose clamps are a PITA. I have locking Knipex hose clamp pliers. They failed as they don't completely close all the way. On those little clamps the pliers have to close all the way. I then tried Astro Pneumatic's cable type hose clamp plier that was even worse. I had an old rusty pair of KD hose clamp pliers that finally worked. There is also 0 room in that cabinet. I think I found a hack. The dispenser housing sits pretty tight to the valves. I was able to move it off the frame and I wedged it up as far as the drum fill hose allowed. It give me all the room I needed to get the clamps and hoses off and on. Some appliance tech made a pair of vice grip type pliers for the smaller clamps. I ordered a pair. Repair came out great no leaks and no more inlet valve squeaking.
@@scotts4125 in my video I've already filmed (haven't uploaded). That was my solution too - move the dispenser forward to give more room, which makes removing the clamps way easier.
I thought the same thing. I believe it as, anything less than 120vac is a bad main board. If you’re seeing 120vac, then it’s the Inverter board. I was getting 3.5-4.5vac and swapping main board fixed issue.
19:41 hi is any having an issue like this ? If so please help 😢 I’ve had my ge washer like that one but with more cycles an 850spn model for about 1 year and 4 months now and I noticed last week that the display was turning on and off on its own while the play and pause button was blinking like if I had turned it on and put clothes in to wash and the machine was just waiting for me to press play mind you this happened around 3-5 in the morning while we were sleeping I noticed because I checked my cameras for something at that time and I saw that so I called the GE and they were no help and just said to unplug it and wait 5 mins well I haven’t had a chance to check my cameras to see if it worked but now when I went to put self cleaning I turned the dial and it went all the way but didn’t light up the cycle I wanted not did it do it for the others just 4 cycles I can use out of 12 ! I called GE and they had no clue I tried the lock button to see but no luck it was fine so if anyone can please help me I would really appreciate it ! And it isn’t giving me an error message.
During the quick wash, my washer works fine for five minutes and then nothing happens for the remaining fifteen minutes and then stops. Could it be the board?
@@bensappliancesandjunk The codes identified that it’s the board. We had a power surge and brown-out when the washer was on and stopped working after. I’m making a damage claim with the power company. Thank you
Our "control" lock button will not unlock. It got accidentally pushed and now it will not turn off. The control word just blinks and goes back to solid. We have unplugged it for hours, tried holding the "play/pause" button to reset and see error codes; etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have the same model and was having the exact problems as yours. Initial problems started with start button not responding. Would have to unplug for a bit and usually would work. This went on a month or so then issue was exactly what you show in your video. Started turning off after 6 seconds. I replaced the main board. Didn't have a volt meter, so just went for it. So....now it stays on for about 40 seconds, Will let me select wash, plays the little song like its going to start, but after 40 seconds it shuts off. Any thoughts on the change from 6 seconds to 40 seconds?
Hard to guess - if you have 40 seconds I'd rapidly put it into diagnostics and see what error codes pop up. That will isolate what failure may be causing it to die.
@@darcysmith151 Mine also is about 40 secs between clicks and i got inverter codes 34 and 92 also vent damper codes 38 and 39. I have new inverter board coming.
Do you know what may cause one of these machines to display “cancelled” on the screen and not allow any functions to work I tried unplugging it, that worked for a short time but after about 5 minutes it did it again the power button doesn’t work and I hear a constant humming noise
Mine is running a fault 3 as well as a few others included 34 (inverter fault). Ran test 14 spin test basket spins for 5 seconds and stop. Says my issue could be hall sensor or rotor motor locked up. However I’m having trouble locating the “hall sensor” on the diagram is there another name for this?
@@simoncesABC yes I replaced the inverter board, drain pump and accelerometer and it works normally now. My motor wasn’t locked up or anything so maybe it just throws that code as a catch all when something else goes wrong
Seems like these boards are really bad! I've replaced one like that recently. The door lock didn't work and there was an error code related to the door lock. Turned out the board was not sending 120v AC to the door lock at all. Likely these boards are relatively inexpensive. You did not mention this in the video, but this GE washer is actually made in China. I mean even assembled in China. I wonder if that's the main reason these have problems with main boards and motor inverters...
I didn't check, but honestly, I think so. Whirlpool went to these cheap-garbage wires and all kinds of harness breaks are cropping up just like this one.
I have a problem with error code 38 and it shows on the top left a lock symbol.. Does anyone know? I don't wanna take it apart maybe there a way to reset? And when I turn it on the light goes off in like 5 seconds
Yes. I've seen it MANY times on modern-ish Whirlpool toploaders, but it seems like the GE's are having the problem too. Those triacs are only able to handle a certain amount of wattage. So if the pump goes bad, the wires will melt/degrade and begin to pull more wattage from the control board. This will exceed the triac spec, and it'll explode, causing the drain system to either not work at all/not send voltage, or will fuse and run constantly.
@@bensappliancesandjunkgiven this, should this be replaced every some odd years as a precaution? I have the 850 and it's fine but don't want to have to pay for so many parts if replacing the pump is so cheap.
@@Breadts1cks I'd just clean the pump every 3 months to ensure there aren't obstructions. That'd probably go further than buying a board and not needing it, honestly.
@@bensappliancesandjunkinteresting. We have a older lg direct drive that had a drain pump go bad. We replaced both motors ( it has a drain pump and a recirculating pump in the same housing, both pumps are the same) one of the 2 was completely loose ( no binding points), just as you described. Also despite that, the machine works perfectly( its more than 15 years old, 1-2 full loads a day), so we are pretty happy with it.
For some reason, you don't see these issues as much on LG/Samsung board designs when a pump fails (and Lord knows that those pumps fail A LOT). I think (and I could be wrong), they use a sizable relay instead of a triac during the switching process, so it can handle the burnout. I think thats the case at least, I'd have to look at a few more schematics though.
I like to repair the boards where they haven't burned out, pump motors and solenoids/solenoid pumps need swapped out though as repair is not practical these days, cheap to buy new ones and they are welded shut usually or made from ultrasonic welded plastic casings..
thank you for the great comment. Here's a bit of fun: The defective board in this exact washer - I gave to my tech (who has a masters in electrical engineering). He ran tests with everything we have at our shop, and cannot figure out where the defect was on this exact board. The inverter relay was NOT the problem, as we replaced it and re-installed the bad board and it was still power cycling. We don't have a board-level schematic, but we cannot percieve what the defect is with the board - if its logic, or what. Many boards are repairable, but this one isn't. The retail price of the board has dropped ~$100 since I made the last video in 2022 on this, which tells me GE knows there's a massive problem with the system. And of course, its the same stuff on the GE Ultrafast combo, so it makes me think that at the 2-3 year mark, the inverter and drain pump on that system will fail. Sadly enough, I filmed replacement videos on that unit "Just in case" before I sold it, and I am now getting requests to compile those videos. Modern appliances are just so rough to make these videos on, because I really don't want to tell people to throw $300 in boards and pumps on a lemon, but maybe this sort of grand failure will make GE rethink how they do things, and other manufacturers to take note.
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Thank you so much. I repaired the washing machine with the replacement of the main control board after watching your video. I am happy that I was able to repair it myself, thanks to your help.
Awesome video for those of us that like to DIY. My 550 started to relay click at about 4-6 seconds between. Unplugging and reset worked for a couple of washes, but it wouldn't spin out properly. Couldn't get the board to go into diagnostic mode. Checked the output to the inverter, 3.x VAC. Just like on the video. Pump windings 20 Ohms, no burns or melted components around the triac, so I bought the control board from Ben's. Got it yesterday, and have run loads with no issues! Thanks so much!
We have the GE GFW850SSN1WW model (only 3 years old). It would turn on but turn off very shortly after and was clicking roughly every 10 secs. We ordered the control board and inverter and my husband was able to fix it with the help of your video. It was the inverter for us but decided to change out the control board with the new updated part just to be safe. (keeping the old one for backup). We saved a lot of money by doing this! Thank you so much! Hope this continues to help others.
From a fellow technician, you rock man! Perfect explanation on everything. Made it simple and straight to the point!
I have the 850. This video helped me to
Diagnose and repair. I bought the board , inverter, and pump from Ben. Only needed the board and the other two items will stay on the shelf if ever needed.
Thank you for the content and the sale!
Awesome! Thank you so much!
Best video out there. This is more useful than calling GE/Bodewell! Their service was so poor, I won’t buy GE ever again.
You sir are living proof that not all heroes wear capes! Bad board, 19.9 resistance on the pump. Purchased the board and a pump from your links. Ordered on Tuesday and received it on Thursday! Fixed Thursday 10/10 would recommend. Can’t thank you enough 🍻
Awesome! Glad you fixed it!
This video helped me to easily diagnose that the main board was faulty and remove it. Ben provides accurate info and links to purchase the correct parts (less than Amazon!) and I was easily able to replace the main board and get this GE Washer back up and running without paying and waiting for a repair man. Grateful to you Ben for making these vids sending the parts without ripping off people. Cheers Bro ! Wishing you continued success and good karma
Thanks! We've had a lot of people get this washer fixed, and I am so happy yours got taken care of!
Oh boy, lectronics ! Great info on triac and other faults.
Way to go GE, vary the thread type for the people not paying attention.
Yeah, its rough - these washers are turning into massive fault-dumps seemingly 3 years in it seems.
Thank you so much for making these videos Bens Appliances. I have that same front loader GE washer and the pump failed after 2 years. I went through all your trouble shooting videos and ended up buying both a new pump and new control board. I was able to fix it myself and for under $200 in parts from your store. Thank you so much!
This was an excellent video. I watch it as it explained the relay clicking sound as the control board. I replaced the board which was made during Covid. Perfect.
Fantastic video! I have the 10 second relay click and your video is the ONLY information I could find! It just sucks for me because I have the dryer stacked on top so that’s going to be a major chore. The other thing is that if these boards suck (which they obviously do since we bought this unit 2 years ago) then replacing it with the same board just makes me think it’ll fail again so maybe we should be considering another washer altogether.
Thank you so much for this video and the board I needed!!! I can’t thank you enough. I had our washer back up and running in 4days, 2 of those days were from USPS delays.
Thank you for doing this video! We recently purchased this model, and your step-by-step guide and amazing detail will come in handy in the future if it ever breaks. Your videos are so detailed and practical. Thank you for your work!
Glad it was helpful!
I don’t even have this washer but your attention to detail and explanation
Wow, 5 stars
Subbed and liked👍🏻
Thanks for excellent video. I have GE Front load washer Model GEW550SPN0DG ( 4 year old) which all of sudden stop spinning and all washing cycle stop in 4 to 5 minutes. It shows error code 3, 27, 38, 32 and 65.
I did test 10 (Pressure Sensor) which seems working. Soil LED blink and stop all for indicator (i.e., Extra Light to Extra Heavy)
Test 14 (Spin). Basket stopped spinning after 4 to 5 seconds. I replaced Accelerometer (WH03X32138) but it did not solve the issue. Does Hall sensor and Accelerometer are same part for Model GEW550SPN0DG?
Test 24 (Damper). Soil level “Light” LED continues blink during test and when press start/pause button it changes to “Extra Light” and stay there until press any other button or Power off. I am not sure whether it’s successful test or not. Does it suppose to start with “Light” and change to “Extra Light” and stop at the end of the test automatically.
Appreciate your help.
Great video! Is the door latch ever the issue? I can get to the code but they don't do anything when press "start" - I don't here the door lock attempt at all... also, the clicks are quick (less then 2 seconds), and then if I wait it is between 30-40 seconds before they click again. Any thoughts?
Same issue for me
What was your issue?
Hi Ben,
Thank you for putting all this together. I have a GFW650 that looks just like the one in this video. During a wash, it did not spin out or drain the water. I found your video on diagnostics and ran the washer in diagnostic mode. The drain pump works and was able to drain out the water, but the spin mode 14 and tumble mode 15 did not do anything. I ordered the inverter board from your site and replaced it today. I tested the washer in diagnostic mode and I'm still not getting a spin. Any recommendations?
Check error codes - see what pops up? Very rare for it to be that case, but the codes should get you further into what may be wrong.
@@bensappliancesandjunk It worked Ben. Washer is now working. Great video, advise, and guidance. Thank you so much!
a dozen calls with the manufacturer, multiple of their outsourced 'techs', and many hours of applying all 3 of my IQ points to trying to self diagnose - but the snapshot of your board with the harness labels was the missing puzzle piece of what I needed to figure it out. ty for sharing this info and doing it in an accessible and understandable way. #righttorepair and F you GE
Thanks SO MUCH for the video! I'm gonna perform these to determine my cause hopefully tomorrow, but for now the kiddo won't let me do much.
I have the 850 model. Pump stopped working properly (I would hear squeaky noises from the drain hose but not the usual gurgle). Now I don't have a regular 6 or 10 second clicking interval, but it shuts off after I start any cycle within a few seconds without starting anything. The app keeps sending me SmartDispenser is empty notifications every minute or so if the unit is plugged but low tank light is off from the main unit (and the tank is full). Wondering if you have had any experience with the weird app notifications and what could have caused this.
Ok, it was the board. YOU ARE A HERO! Many thanks! I was able to confirm the issue was the main board and not the inverter following your tips.
Much gratitude!
By the way, I think the link for viewers to send tips should be more visible and you should mention it in your videos. Absolutely nothing to shy from. Your videos ARE valuable so many will be glad to give.
Hello, thank you for the videos you make, I always watch them. I have a problem with a washing machine similar to this model GFW650SSN0WW, the problem is that it does not turn on at all and I did the diagnosis so I thought the only option is the bad Control Board. I ordered the new Control Board but the same problem continues. Do you think I have to contact GE to activate the new Control Board?
There are 2 choices.
1) The power going to the unit is not getting there. Cord is bad, outlet is bad, ect.
2) The User Interface is bad.
For #1 test voltage going into board, or at wall. Should be 120 VAC going to board.
For #2, check wires going to UI from board. I can't remember the pinout offhand, but it should be appearent when you see the control board. It should either be 5 VDC or 12 VDC. If you can confirm that, and no response from powering on, the UI is bad.
Have you tried replacing the triac on the main board? Do you have the part number for the Triac?
I just tested the board where the inverter plugs in and it only showed 1-5v directly on the board (I couldn’t get a reading through the wire). My relay click is every 30 seconds though so I don’t want to buy a board if it is necessary. Lights are flashing and the board is getting 120v from power. I’ve also torn apart and checked the pump which seems fine. Do you think it would be the board? Machine shuts off every 30 seconds and won’t run. Codes fired are 3,26,36,39,66,92.
Thanks inverter board fixed my girlfriends washing machine!🎉 very detailed
Nice!!!
What was your issue?
This is why I bought a brand new GE washer, so I wouldn't have any more problems with my old one. Says right on the front 10-year warranty. Mine hasn't lasted more than 3 years before having to deal with this bull crap. Warranty or not I'm pissed off.
my less than year old 650 washer, like this one, randomly says complete cycle after a few minutes or so, randomly. I get notifications on my phone also. I make sure to stand there and verify the door lock actually locks before I walk away. It seems to have something to do with the door lock and I open the door and firmly close it again and it will work then.
morning Ben
I have a GFW550SSN0WW, that started only running for a few minutes and then displays "end"
It seems as though it is going thru the start of the cycle
fills a short spurt, tumbles for a cpl seconds, fills a short spurt, tumbles the other way back and forth for about 2-3 minutes and then just stops and says "End"
Doesn't matter the setting, or size of load, even tried it empty, does the same thing no matter what.
I tried pulling up error codes using your videos
Consumer method didn't display anything, I could hear relays tripping once, and then again after about 10 or so seconds, then it just stopped and didn't do anything else.
Used your technician method and I was able to pull up a whole slew of error codes: 70, 3, 27,26, 39, 46, and 19.
According to reddit posts and some other posts online, it looks like the symptoms are pointing towards a failing/failed motor invertor board and or main control board.
Would you mind weighing in an recommending the right path to further diagnose?
Excellent video
If the inverter is bad do you have to replace the main board as well
I have the same question. The drain pump doesn’t make any humming noise even after replacing the pump on test #12. Next steps I’m just replacing both inverter and circuit board since GE has new versions of those on their website. Washer spins and fills fine though so it may not be the inverter but just precaution.
@@YourooteeahWhat was your issue?
@@Tx03edge The issue was the water was not draining, the drain pump was not making any noise even after replacing pump. So I replaced both inverter and control board and that fixed it. Don't know which fixed it to be exact prob control board.
Hi. I have a washer like this and it displays h2o supply. Ive check to make sure i have water pressure. I even replaced the inlet valves. But it still displays that error. I checked the diagnostic and its saying the pressure valve. How would i test if it is bad.
Help please!!!!
I am getting 0v for the inverter plug. My washer keeps trying to start a load on its own after turned on!!!! Im thinking it’s the inverter but would the inverter cause the user interface to be faulty as well?
Hi Ben, hoping you see this. My washer has no reaction to when i press the power button. Confirmed breaker is not tripped and 120v coming out of the outlet. Im looking at my control board and am not seeing any leds lit and just hearing a constant high pitch eletronic noise coming from the contrll baord. Could you help me? Im leaning towards bad control board but was wodnering if inveter baord would have anything to do with this
I was looking at these. Are they good? Will they typically last long?
Is the inverter board able to be removed and replaced from the bottom of the washer if I lay the washer on its back?
You can try - it's possible but I can't confirm it works
Is there a lm emergency door lock for this exact model ?
When you test the inverter pins, can you do that with the without the wires plugged in? I don't have long enough leads to test it otherwise.
Yes you can
Hmm. So according to the schematic only the 850 and above models have the fan in the front vent. Does this mean those models run a shorter ultrafresh vent cycle since they can force air through the machine, or is it the standard 8 hour run of cycling the drum on and off for 15 minutes?
Edit: According to the service manual, apparently not. It’s literally only used for the 1 step wash and dry cycle.
Thanks!
Thank you Ben...I have this washer but so far I haven't had an issue with it except the app for it keeps losing contact with the washer. Kind of a worthless app.
Mines a 650 and I looked at my pics from about a year ago and sure enough that triac is what went on my board. I thought the board took the pump out as I had no obstruction. I replaced both and all good. I have a squealing noise coming from the inlet valves. Replacing the valves will be easy. Pulling the machine out not so easy. lol I have the new valves waiting to be installed. As I am typing SmartHQ is updating the washer.
Crazy. I did shoot a water valve test & replacement video for this, so that'll be up soon on the channel! I also filmed an interter diagnostic video that I'll release later as well. I just had SO many people ask about this washer and issues with replacing the pump but it still being dead, so I hunted for a broken one of these to film.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Awesome I will be looking for the inverter video. You forgot to post a link for the tool. I used your previous method with the wrench and wire ties. I know which tool it is but if you sell it I would rather buy it from you or at least use an affiliate link so you get something out of it. Thanks for the videos. SmartHQ updated my washer, dryer and DW today. lol
We have the second to top tier model Monogram DW. Over the third rack is a clip for a sprayer. That clip is horribly welded to the top of the tub. Ours came loose and it was catching the third rack. I bought stainless epoxy and basically glued it back into position. This stuff is high temp rated. It worked great just in case you ever run into that.
@@bensappliancesandjunkI’d be curious to know if there’s a way to have the valves shut a little more gently? Just watching the machine fill you can see the hoses jump when it shuts the valves. (Which of course it has to do many times instead of doing one continuous fill). Not really worried about the water hammer on the plumbing, but concerned it may not help the longevity of the hoses.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Just finished my inlet valve replacement. Those little double wire hose clamps are a PITA. I have locking Knipex hose clamp pliers. They failed as they don't completely close all the way. On those little clamps the pliers have to close all the way. I then tried Astro Pneumatic's cable type hose clamp plier that was even worse. I had an old rusty pair of KD hose clamp pliers that finally worked. There is also 0 room in that cabinet. I think I found a hack. The dispenser housing sits pretty tight to the valves. I was able to move it off the frame and I wedged it up as far as the drum fill hose allowed. It give me all the room I needed to get the clamps and hoses off and on. Some appliance tech made a pair of vice grip type pliers for the smaller clamps. I ordered a pair. Repair came out great no leaks and no more inlet valve squeaking.
@@scotts4125 in my video I've already filmed (haven't uploaded). That was my solution too - move the dispenser forward to give more room, which makes removing the clamps way easier.
At the 5 min mark, is that the mainboard that tested bad? You said the it was the inverter that failed on this unit.
I thought the same thing. I believe it as, anything less than 120vac is a bad main board. If you’re seeing 120vac, then it’s the Inverter board. I was getting 3.5-4.5vac and swapping main board fixed issue.
Still rocking that hyper tough drill I see 😂
Gonna get a new one soon. The issue is that any piece of crap works on most appliances since I'm not doing this commercially
@@bensappliancesandjunk why not? Make that bank!
I use hyper tough too 😂
19:41 hi is any having an issue like this ? If so please help 😢 I’ve had my ge washer like that one but with more cycles an 850spn model for about 1 year and 4 months now and I noticed last week that the display was turning on and off on its own while the play and pause button was blinking like if I had turned it on and put clothes in to wash and the machine was just waiting for me to press play mind you this happened around 3-5 in the morning while we were sleeping I noticed because I checked my cameras for something at that time and I saw that so I called the GE and they were no help and just said to unplug it and wait 5 mins well I haven’t had a chance to check my cameras to see if it worked but now when I went to put self cleaning I turned the dial and it went all the way but didn’t light up the cycle I wanted not did it do it for the others just 4 cycles I can use out of 12 ! I called GE and they had no clue I tried the lock button to see but no luck it was fine so if anyone can please help me I would really appreciate it ! And it isn’t giving me an error message.
During the quick wash, my washer works fine for five minutes and then nothing happens for the remaining fifteen minutes and then stops. Could it be the board?
Check error codes to confirm if it's the Board is my main suggestion
@@bensappliancesandjunk The codes identified that it’s the board. We had a power surge and brown-out when the washer was on and stopped working after. I’m making a damage claim with the power company. Thank you
Our "control" lock button will not unlock. It got accidentally pushed and now it will not turn off. The control word just blinks and goes back to solid.
We have unplugged it for hours, tried holding the "play/pause" button to reset and see error codes; etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
why are people taking the top lid off to replace the door gasket?
I have the same model and was having the exact problems as yours. Initial problems started with start button not responding. Would have to unplug for a bit and usually would work. This went on a month or so then issue was exactly what you show in your video. Started turning off after 6 seconds. I replaced the main board. Didn't have a volt meter, so just went for it. So....now it stays on for about 40 seconds, Will let me select wash, plays the little song like its going to start, but after 40 seconds it shuts off. Any thoughts on the change from 6 seconds to 40 seconds?
Hard to guess - if you have 40 seconds I'd rapidly put it into diagnostics and see what error codes pop up. That will isolate what failure may be causing it to die.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I got 38 91 and 92
@@darcysmith151 Mine also is about 40 secs between clicks and i got inverter codes 34 and 92 also vent damper codes 38 and 39. I have new inverter board coming.
@@careyj4597 Let me know if inverter board does it... Doesn't look like a fun job!
Replaced inverter board and still does the same thing goes off after 40 secs, will try control board next
Do you know what may cause one of these machines to display “cancelled” on the screen and not allow any functions to work I tried unplugging it, that worked for a short time but after about 5 minutes it did it again the power button doesn’t work and I hear a constant humming noise
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Mine is running a fault 3 as well as a few others included 34 (inverter fault). Ran test 14 spin test basket spins for 5 seconds and stop. Says my issue could be hall sensor or rotor motor locked up. However I’m having trouble locating the “hall sensor” on the diagram is there another name for this?
The Hall sensor is on the end of the motor with the two thinner wires.
I have the same issue. Have you been able to fix it?
@@simoncesABC yes I replaced the inverter board, drain pump and accelerometer and it works normally now. My motor wasn’t locked up or anything so maybe it just throws that code as a catch all when something else goes wrong
My washer is currently saying error and my clothes are soaked and there’s a pool of water that’s not going down. What can I do ?
I've had this washer for 1year & 1 month and it took a dump on me exactly this way . Won't turn on or nothing 100% completely dead
I have gfw550ssn2ww no power ? It plugged securely into a working outlet
Check for power to board, then UI. See if its getting proper voltages
Seems like these boards are really bad! I've replaced one like that recently. The door lock didn't work and there was an error code related to the door lock. Turned out the board was not sending 120v AC to the door lock at all. Likely these boards are relatively inexpensive. You did not mention this in the video, but this GE washer is actually made in China. I mean even assembled in China. I wonder if that's the main reason these have problems with main boards and motor inverters...
Did you swap the inverter on control board?
are those 18 gauge wires used in this washer?
I didn't check, but honestly, I think so. Whirlpool went to these cheap-garbage wires and all kinds of harness breaks are cropping up just like this one.
Is there a way to test the inverter?
Yes. That video will release next weel
Are GE and LG washer and dryers made by the same company?
Nope
my washer wont even make noise when the button is pushed
That’s like mine. Completely unresponsive, it was main board, failed because of wrong pump just as this guy suggests
I have a problem with error code 38 and it shows on the top left a lock symbol.. Does anyone know? I don't wanna take it apart maybe there a way to reset? And when I turn it on the light goes off in like 5 seconds
How do I unlock my front door washer?
Clicking is happening every 40 seconds. Going to pick up a multimeter now.
Bens...?...( SMART HQ )..😕..?..
So a bad pump can kill a board? Wow
Yes. I've seen it MANY times on modern-ish Whirlpool toploaders, but it seems like the GE's are having the problem too. Those triacs are only able to handle a certain amount of wattage. So if the pump goes bad, the wires will melt/degrade and begin to pull more wattage from the control board. This will exceed the triac spec, and it'll explode, causing the drain system to either not work at all/not send voltage, or will fuse and run constantly.
@@bensappliancesandjunkgiven this, should this be replaced every some odd years as a precaution? I have the 850 and it's fine but don't want to have to pay for so many parts if replacing the pump is so cheap.
@@Breadts1cks I'd just clean the pump every 3 months to ensure there aren't obstructions. That'd probably go further than buying a board and not needing it, honestly.
@@bensappliancesandjunkinteresting. We have a older lg direct drive that had a drain pump go bad. We replaced both motors ( it has a drain pump and a recirculating pump in the same housing, both pumps are the same) one of the 2 was completely loose ( no binding points), just as you described. Also despite that, the machine works perfectly( its more than 15 years old, 1-2 full loads a day), so we are pretty happy with it.
For some reason, you don't see these issues as much on LG/Samsung board designs when a pump fails (and Lord knows that those pumps fail A LOT). I think (and I could be wrong), they use a sizable relay instead of a triac during the switching process, so it can handle the burnout. I think thats the case at least, I'd have to look at a few more schematics though.
I like to repair the boards where they haven't burned out, pump motors and solenoids/solenoid pumps need swapped out though as repair is not practical these days, cheap to buy new ones and they are welded shut usually or made from ultrasonic welded plastic casings..
thank you for the great comment. Here's a bit of fun: The defective board in this exact washer - I gave to my tech (who has a masters in electrical engineering). He ran tests with everything we have at our shop, and cannot figure out where the defect was on this exact board. The inverter relay was NOT the problem, as we replaced it and re-installed the bad board and it was still power cycling. We don't have a board-level schematic, but we cannot percieve what the defect is with the board - if its logic, or what. Many boards are repairable, but this one isn't. The retail price of the board has dropped ~$100 since I made the last video in 2022 on this, which tells me GE knows there's a massive problem with the system.
And of course, its the same stuff on the GE Ultrafast combo, so it makes me think that at the 2-3 year mark, the inverter and drain pump on that system will fail. Sadly enough, I filmed replacement videos on that unit "Just in case" before I sold it, and I am now getting requests to compile those videos.
Modern appliances are just so rough to make these videos on, because I really don't want to tell people to throw $300 in boards and pumps on a lemon, but maybe this sort of grand failure will make GE rethink how they do things, and other manufacturers to take note.
So cheaply made
Pregnant.
A washing machine with a computer;..who builds this crap, who needs this garbage....?
Computers are mandated due to efficiency standards
I hear the relay switch shuts off brand new appliance what a piece of junk