How to install a pocket door in an existing wall
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- Опубликовано: 3 янв 2019
- www.doityourselfdennis.com presents this tutorial how to video about how to install a pocket door in an existing wall. Also tips to make the job go better. Disclaimer: In my videos I don’t always use the safest methods of accomplishing whatever the video is about. I have been doing this type of work for over 30 years and I try and show the average homeowner how to accomplish whatever job is at hand. Therefore, if you choose to do something I show in my videos, please use all safety precautions as I will not be held responsible for your safety.
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It's good to see a video where there are problems to deal with. More authentic and helpful.
Thanks. Glad I could help.
Absolutely. Much more honest and realistic.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to make a detailed step-by-step video with commentary, including how to make it better and obstacles you encountered. I'm retired and working on remodeling at home. I'll be starting my first pocket door installation, with relocating electrical outlet and switches, this coming week to replace a 2' standard bathroom door with 2'8" pocket, thinking of eventual walker and wheelchair access. Your process with an existing wall is really helping with measurements and confidence.
You are welcome. Glad I could help. I answered your comment about the house being on a slab in the above comment. Good luck with your remodel.
I’ve been searching on RUclips and this is exactly what I was looking for, especially appreciate so much detail, e.g. how to remove the stud while trying to save the drywall at the back, how to nail the stud in. Thank you, this really helps me! I’ll be DIYing similar work tomorrow and these detailed steps gives me a lot more confidence in my DIY
Thank you, glad I could help.
This is the best pocket door video I have found. Super helpful. Like having my dad there explaining it to me.
Thank you, glad I can help.
@@doityourselfdenniscom I finished it today, still need to drywall and add trim. It was difficult bc it's an old house. Your video helped me conceptualize what I needed to do. Thank you.
@@mary-ud2wp Good. I have a video on how to trim a pocket door if you haven't seen it.
Great work! Thank you for being a good teacher on this.
You are welcome.
Dennis this was so well detailed. thank you
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
Thanks for the video, I always wondered how this was done. Nice camera work, and explaining.
Thank you.
I like and prefer pocket doors, saves space which is great and just another cool feature in your house, esp. if you decide to install a different style door instead of the standard six panel door! So, thanks for the tutorial Dennis.
You are welcome.
About as realistic as you can get in this video. Thanks man. I need to do same exact thing.
Thanks. Glad I can help.
Great job. I would probably try to use more screws than nails just incase I have to make adjustments or remove something but I see you are very comfortable with a hammer & nails. Thanks again great job and tips for my future pocket door.
Thank you! This door has been installed for 7 years and we haven't had any problems.
I appreciate the detail an explanation of this tutorial , jt made it easier to understand the process.👍
Thank you.
Wow this is an amazing video. Thank you so much for sharing it. Very helpful.🙏👐
You are welcome! I am glad I could help!
Nice instruction on this! Thank you so much!!!!
You are welcome.
Excellent video and presentation.
Thank you.
Great video, Dennis, got yourself a sub. Well done.
Thanks.
Thank you! Done very well!
You are welcome.
Very informative video thank you
You are welcome.
Thanks! That was great! It was like watching myself do this :-) I bend nails too! And there is always something, I call it "Murphy", that you didn't think about or something that happens that you need to solve. But it's all part of the journey. Good Job!
Thanks, yeah Murphy's law. It gets me quite often! Just today matter of fact while laying tile.
Good detailed video. I use wood screws to attach the studs and assemble kit. They also make door kits that come in a more assembled state. I'm doing my laundry room door this weekend.
Thank you. I try.
I checked out the Big Box store preassembled kits - they get terrible ratings - I'm going to make my own . . .
@@paulrobinson9318 The one I installed here, I bought from Lowes and it has been great. The door operates perfect.
Good call on cutting the nails holding the studs with the sawzall. With the problems you had with the studs, I would have used drywall screws and a drill to secure your studs, this would have saved you some time and possibly saved the one stud from a beatdown that he took. If you have to remove studs later, you just flip the reverse on the drill. Old, hard studs are no match for your drill and screws. I would suggest to my workers to turn the sawzall the other direction as you came close to sawing the live electrical lines.
This is so awesome. You did an amazing job. I so wish I had this done when I built my home 20 years ago. I have a bedroom on the master with a restroom and closet in the hall that needs a door to separate it from living space when guests come. Thank you for sharing.
You are welcome. I am glad I could help.
Good job.
Thank you.
It’s always a great idea to cut stud nails with a sawzall going TOWARDS a few live wires... what could possibly go wrong? 🤷🏻♂️
thank you
Your are welcome, hope it helped.
Please increase the volume on your videos, very hard to hear! Otherwise... great video! Thanks
Thanks for the advice. I know some of them are louder than others. I will see what can do.
Making me not so scared, thanks
It isn't too hard. Just pay attention and follow the directions. You can do it.
Lot of work for a hidden door.
We really appreciate all the video and carpentry work that went in to make this pocket door a reality. To hire out this job I'm guessing would cost 2,500 to 4,000 parts and labor, because of all the detail work and the door swing savings. It can be well worth it for nicer homes where door swing constantly gets in the way.
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 I’m a general contractor. And you are correct but that’s the cost for replacement. It’s cheaper on a new house before drywall and wire are installed ($500-$900) which in that case makes the job more less delicate and easier
Was Dennis taught be Tim "the toolman" Taylor?
Maybe, not sure how to take this.
My only comment is about the header. Shouldn't the header be sitting upright, rather than setting flat on the stud?
This is a nonload bearing wall. So, it really doesn't matter. It has a truss roof system, so the bearing walls are the outside walls. If it was load bearing it would need to be sitting upright and larger.
On the header rail, you cut 3/4 inch too far back that created that gap you were talking about, If the header was cut at the right measurement, you would not need to build out anything. I have watched many of these pocket doors installs and not one had to add or lengthen on either the door jam side or the bump stopper.
I cut it where the instructions said to.
With barn door don't need to rip the wall out.
Barn doors are played out and the laziest possible door you could place.
I have done very similar with Woodglut designs.
Looks like a lot of work to save a section of drywall you are going to have to do a lot of patching on….I would have just pulled the drywall on both sides and reframed….
If you pull the drywall, you are going to have to finish it in a room that is already finished and painted. Also, if you pull the drywall all the way to the ceiling, you are going to have to finish it or at least put crown molding up.
it's what I want but man.. what a pain in the ass its gonna be . I got an old 1950s bungalow & it's all plaster ..... bathroom is SMALL & these pocket doors are the answer..
Plaster walls can be a pain and messy!
To those viewers who are impressed by this video and intend to emulate dennis, do yourself a favour and first invest in a pair of safety glasses. If dennis continues to cut nails with a reciprocating saw chances are that he will be blinded in no time.
First thing I noticed as well. Safety First People!
put trim on before the guides
I have to disagree. I just installed another one of these recently. The instructions say to put them on before the trim. I installed the same door in my personal house several years ago and I have never had any reason to adjust the guides and don't see needing to any time. The guides are designed to last a very long time.
@@doityourselfdenniscom That's good to know. Thank you.
@@calossmann6653 Sorry, I thought in your first comment you were telling me to put the trim on first. I guess you were asking if you should.
Can't believe the comments aren't full of insurance company robot slaves screaming that you are not wearing gloves, safety glasses, a hard hat, steel toe boots, a respirator and any other crap I didn't think of.
Yeah, it is crazy the crap insurance companies and lawyers want you to wear. In the real world not many people wear all of the safety garb. I wear it when I think it is necessary.
@@doityourselfdenniscom I don't know how people don't get sick of themselves responding with criticism of unsafe this, that, and everything. The world is going to hurt more and more with all the virtue signalling and what if crap.
Drywall screws for affixed structural elements? No.
What?
@@doityourselfdenniscom In the video drywall screws were used to affix a header stud. That’s quite often a code no-no. Drywall screws are for drywall. Wood screws like deck screws are structural screws. Metallurgically, their properties are quite different. Wood Screws are made of a softer metal that is stronger but resistant to fracture under impact and cyclical load. Drywall screws are hard and brittle and provide little resistance to fracture if put under load.
Thick screws
Made of soft metal
Resistant to fractures
Drywall Screws:
Made of steel
Material is hard and brittle
Little resistance to fractures
@@staberdearth3130 But, that header is really not structural, the house has trusses and this is not a bearing wall. It is basically just something to attach drywall to.
@@doityourselfdenniscom I understand that. I will even support your claim if it is indeed a non supporting (load bearing) member over a non supporting (load bearing) header. However, my point is that often, and I’ve seen it more than once, codes, depending upon how they are worded, often go against the builder. Debate can often occur especially with an inspector who is inflexible or unsure and will default on the safe side. Insurance companies will nitpick over such things. Risk is low, but consequence is high.
Not necessarily related but here’s a highly frustrating code related example. Some years ago I installed an electric stove and anticipating the new upcoming code did not hard wire but used a plug and outlet. The inspector made me tear it out citing that my method was not to code at that time, regardless of any future changes that had not yet been formalized. Most inspectors would have let it be, not this guy.
I wanna do the same thing , but ... I am SINGLE GUY...!!! : - /
Y D F...
He's working way too hard to preserve $5 worth of sheet rock on the good side. Just rip out both sides, rebuild and mud/tape/paint. Those cut off nails in the sheet rock are going to work out eventually. Look at the huge tear outs of rock came with the nails, that violates the fire barrier sheet rock provides, even if you make it look nice on the clean side. At the end that good side of the wall looks too good compared to the damage on the inside. Touched up maybe?
The manufacturing instructions tell you that all the surrounding framing has to be square and plumb. Other than a level on the track I wonder how true all those elements are.
You say in your description that you aren't too safe, but you've been doing this for thirty years. Five minutes from now something could go flying and you lose an eye. Wear safety glasses in your videos and your life. I've been riding motorcycles for 45 years, and I put on my helmet every time.