Excellent video... full of information I needed... The wife would like a "Pocket Door" entering our master bathroom... your video was very instructive!
wow, my daughter wanted me to install a pocket door in her bedroom because her sister does not have one - Girls. Excellent video and well thought out. Its the inside wall I am going to do on a 3x3 wall (Trailer), but I have a solution to it. Once again, thank you for taking the time. We picked up a door on sale and pocket hardware in their original boxes for a $1.00 each over 40 years old, go figure...
Thanks! I am getting ready to try this and I hope I am not getting myself into something that is too much for my limited level of skills.Your video is the best one out there.I will watch this about 5 more times.With luck, I might be able to do this in a week.. Haha
sonastainbrook Pocket doors are one of those things that require you to visualize the finished product before you start building it. Once you get a few pieces put in place it will come together pretty easily. Just be sure to think ahead with your measurements so you leave room for trim and have the correct final opening for the door. Work backwards from your door width.
Thanks for sweating the details and giving a full picture of what's required. I'm changing an adjacent room's walls from panel to drywall and floor from tile to hardwood, and was considering a pocket door since I've got access to some of the framing now. However, with the changes needed for the framing and finish work of the adjacent room, I'm not so sure I want to get into it. I have my hands full with the other project as it is!
Yeah, sometimes you have to find a place to stop. It's nice to have the pocket door sometimes, but if you don't really have a pressing need for it then the work may be more than it's worth.
Tom--I've used both Stanley and Johnson hardware, but the manufacturers have changed over the years and I think some companies merged. You really have to check the box or the pictures to be sure of what you are getting.
At 0.27 shows the door is not centered in the opening by at least an inch. Prep must take into account the door width and RO. That's the hard part for me. Door stop looks cool as is the black paint trick. Helpful video! Thanks
That particular pocket door was added on the outside of an existing wall, which is why it isn't centered. Other doors may be centered. It just depends on the existing circumstances when you are adding a pocket door after the fact.
I really enjoyed the video, while its a challenge for you to retain the backside drywall, I really want to maintain my drywall on the backside wall. Can you explain your perfected technique for removing the studs by removing the drywall from only 1 side.
+David Turocy Keep in mind that even if you are successful in keeping one side of the drywall, you'll almost certainly need to do some spackling. If your drywall was put up with nails, you can often slide a metal cutting blade from a reciprocating saw between the stud and drywall to cut the nails free. You'll still have a nail pop on the finish side, but that's easily repaired. If your drywall was put up with screws, it isn't worth trying to cut the screws the same way. In that case you can cut the stud into small sections and carefully pry the screws through the drywall while still attached to the section of stud. A multi-tool with a metal cutting blade is another option besides a recip saw. Honestly, though, it may just be quicker and easier to replace the drywall. As I said, sometimes I just amuse myself with little challenges like this so I don't get bored!
I have watched several videos... I like the 4 wheel trucks that you used. Who makes the door hardware? I am getting ready to do 3 pocket doors and want to use the best of hardware. Thanks.
Thank you very well done. I have a 2X6 wall which is already built from a previous reno to fit a pocket door. The wall is separating a bathroom and a bedroom and there is a fan switch on the bathroom side where I wood build the pocket door. I already a the header so that is done. My concern is how to install the hardware inside the 2X6 framed wall with the electric box on one side. Is there enough room inside the wall to leave the electric box as is and still install the 2X4 door hardware. TX again and hopefully I will get info.
I suspect the electric box will be too deep and get in your way. Depending on how many wire connections are in the box you may be permitted to use a special shallow box. That might allow enough room. Bottom line: you should probably be prepared to move the electric.
One very important step was left out of this video. The installation of the mini-studs that come with the kit. How did you install the studs that go against the existing wall? The install instructions show that you nail the two header nails part way into the jam studs and then rotate the header into place, then secure the two nails. It would seem that the inner mini-studs that go against the existing wall must be secured to the header first, then place the header in place and nail the brackets. Is this how you did this?
You mean how did I get those buggers in place when the existing drywall was in the way? It's been awhile to remember, but I think I probably just slid them in from the side and screwed them into the header and the bottom plate by screwing right through the drywall. That just left some small holes to patch. I had already put the top track into place. Of course, then I would screw the drywall into the "studs" using shorter drywall screws that would not penetrate too far.
Thanks for the reply, and it was still an excellent video. What I ended up doing (I hadn't seen your reply at that point) was to put the header in place temporarily, mark the (4) mini-studs, cut them to the proper length, take the header down and screw the two studs that are against the existing drywall to the header . Then slip the two bottom plates on the two studs and stand the assembly into place and secure the header brackets. I then had to drill the concrete floor to anchor the stud plates. I then slipped the two remaining mini-studs in place on the anchor brackets and then secured them to the header. Job complete! Thanks again for the video and the reply.
I had to go look at what you meant! I think you are referring to the wide plank pine flooring, which is often called "pumpkin pine." There are many species of pine, but the particular one that has been used for centuries and which ages to that patina is longleaf pine. which is native to the southern US. Sometimes Eastern White pine is used for flooring, but that is softer and doesn't develop quite the same patina.
@@enduringcharm Ah, it's gorgeous! Thank you so much for this informative reply, I would have never guessed on my own. Have a great week and stay safe! 🤗
Did you say what brand this is and where you found the best price? Also, for a lot of people the dry wall would be up very common for a remodel to NOT remove more than needed.
What would it cost on an average to replace existing pocket doors? From where to where? I'm stuck with a house full of them! What is the average labor time per door installation, meaning to say from the most amount of time to the least. Also are the doors that you place in the wall any different from regular doors and if so how? Thank you....
+fede diego It's impossible for me to give you a precision answer because there are so many variables. The type and style of trim, whether it is painted or stained, the style and condition of hardware, the type of flooring if it was installed after the pocket doors, the type of wall finish and of course local labor rates and practices all have bearing. I'm assuming you wish to keep the pocket door idea but replace them with new doors? You do use standard doors in the pocket. To remove an existing door may not be too big a deal IF the hardware was designed that way. On the other hand, some hardware cannot be accessed without removing trim or more. You could easily spend half a day removing and replacing a pocket door if there is easy access. If there isn't, then all bets are off.
Excellent video however, I do not understand the reason for the stop molding installed on the pocket side door jam. You mentioned it helps receive the door while opening. If the end of the door remains in the pocket while closed, do you still need the stop molding? Do you have a finished pic? Thank you, I'm just a DIY beginner.
Steven Oda Some carpenters do omit the stop moulding on the pocket side. It's an aesthetic choice and it can also be used to hide the bottom guides or to adjust the width of the door opening.
I need to leave the drywall intact on one side, just as you did. If the drywall that needs to remain is screwed/nailed/fastened in some way into the studs I need to remove, what is the best way to deal with that? I don't really even know how I would assume the position of the fasteners to try to cut through them with a multitool or some other saw. If I just try to rip the studs away, that's probably not going to work either.
Well, there are a number of ways to deal with that. If the drywall was installed with screws, it may not be worth trying to cut them with a saw. The hardened steel will just destroy the blade and the vibration will be a problem. Instead, you can carefully pry between the stud and the drywall with a flat bar and just pull the screw heads through the back. Or, if you find the screw heads with a magnet, you can jam a drill driver into the screw head and unscrew them. Then you'll just have to spackle those holes. Of course, if the drywall is also glued to the studs, then you'll have no choice but to try and use a multitool or reciprocating saw to cut through the glue first. Finally, if the drywall was installed with just nails, you won the lottery. They will cut easily with a reciprocating saw from behind.
+Adam Rasmussen I can't quite remember what I did, but I think I probably just poked holes in the drywall where the screws had to go and spackled them up later. You could slide the "pretend studs" in place and then it was easy to measure where the screws needed to go.
I know this was a non load bearing wall so your lintel was just butted up against the stud and thus there is no transfer of overhead weight down to the floor. If you are putting a pot door into a load bearing wall I assume the lintel must be supported by jack studs underneath the lintel ends or the lintel would be checked into an existing 4x2 stud. Is that right?
If you're working with a load bearing wall which has not previously had a header installed, then you need to put one in to span the entire distance or the opening and the door in the wall. It is much like a window, and you'll need jack and king studs. The header will need to be sized according to the weight it carries and the length it runs. If you get a long enough header with enough weight you'll need two studs under each end. Of course, these studs must also rest on some structure underneath--typically directly over floor joists or a beam. These "point loads" must be properly supported underneath because the weight continues downward.
Thanks, that answers my question nicely. My opening will run perpendicularly between two opposite walls which are parallel to the double floor joists beneath them. The wall with the opening runs within 200mm of the joist bearer so I should have sufficient underfloor support. I may block the joists under the wall opening to give additional bracing.
Building codes can be different all over, but in my area the inspector will want to see a doubled floor joist under a point load, and assuming that the joists and header are sized for the load. Don't be tempted to allow the jack studs for your header to rest on the plywood floor even if it is close to a joist. Instead, sister up a second joist or add a joist to get it under that point load. If you are forced to use blocking, it should be tied to doubled up joists typically, or it should rest on a beam. Obviously I'm not there to see specifically what you're talking about, but if you have any doubt add more wood! The last thing you want is sagging or movement in the header, which will telegraph through to the finish trim on the pocket door.
Did you reinstall the adjacent closet? I want to install a pocket door in a non load bearing wall that has walls tied into it on one side for a hallway. I wanted to make sure I could install the door and still anchor the adjacent wall. Can you show how that is done with a pocket door installation?
In this case, the closet was replaced by a laundry area. If you need to tie another wall to one of the pocket door walls it can be done, but you may need to build additional framing for strength. The flimsy metal "studs" provided by the pocket door kits, for example, are not appropriate for tying together a perpendicular wall. You may even need to frame out a second parallel wall with real studs next to the pocket door wall. There is no "standard" way of doing this, so if you don't have the experience to make the judgement call for your particular circumstances then you may need to consult with somebody locally who knows their stuff.
How much "rough opening" do you need in between the studs or two walls (depth)? I know I need like 4 inches of HEIGHT over door, & I need at least double the LENGTH of the door but, what about space in between walls/studs for a *1.38* thick door + tracking kit??
Wise DaGod If you are using a predesigned hardware kit, the kit will be set up for standard 2x4 or 2x6 stud walls. In other words, they already did the work and the calculations for you. For the other dimensions you need a little more than double the width of the door and for the header and the needed space for the track mechanism you'll need more than four inches overhead. Again, though, for a standard, non-load bearing 2x4 wall and standard door heights the kit should work without too much trouble. If you are working with a load bearing wall or with an older (60+) home with non-standard walls then you may need to do some finagling.
Any straight edge is fine, I suppose. Or, if you want to draw a line, just put down blue painter's tape first and the draw a line on the tape. You can peel it off when you no longer need it.
Just watched this - great explanation with the perfect number of words!
You really have a knack for speaking in terms that resonate with the non-expert...really like your vids and thank you!
Thank you!
Glad I was patient enough to find this video. Clearly presented how to info done in a timely and professional way. Thanks!
I really like the prep on painting the channel and hardware to help the track blend in. Great job!
Excellent video... full of information I needed... The wife would like a "Pocket Door" entering our master bathroom... your video was very instructive!
Very good / helpful video. Just the right amount of detail / explanation... clear & concise. Thanks for making & publishing it.
Thank you for the detailed installation, it was exactly what I was looking for and really helpful.
wow, my daughter wanted me to install a pocket door in her bedroom because her sister does not have one - Girls.
Excellent video and well thought out. Its the inside wall I am going to do on a 3x3 wall (Trailer), but I have a solution to it. Once again, thank you for taking
the time. We picked up a door on sale and pocket hardware in their original boxes for a $1.00 each over 40 years old, go figure...
Thanks! I am getting ready to try this and I hope I am not getting myself into something that is too much for my limited level of skills.Your video is the best one out there.I will watch this about 5 more times.With luck, I might be able to do this in a week.. Haha
sonastainbrook Pocket doors are one of those things that require you to visualize the finished product before you start building it. Once you get a few pieces put in place it will come together pretty easily. Just be sure to think ahead with your measurements so you leave room for trim and have the correct final opening for the door. Work backwards from your door width.
Thanks for sweating the details and giving a full picture of what's required. I'm changing an adjacent room's walls from panel to drywall and floor from tile to hardwood, and was considering a pocket door since I've got access to some of the framing now. However, with the changes needed for the framing and finish work of the adjacent room, I'm not so sure I want to get into it. I have my hands full with the other project as it is!
Yeah, sometimes you have to find a place to stop. It's nice to have the pocket door sometimes, but if you don't really have a pressing need for it then the work may be more than it's worth.
Answered every single question I had.! Very good video, keep up the great work!
Thanks! I'm ready to tackle the project after this insightful video.
good vid....fixing to install a pocket door kinda like the same lay out in your vid...very helpful!
Great video. Thanks!
Great explanation. Thank you
Thank you for the video. Very useful !
Great instructional video -- thanks!
Tom--I've used both Stanley and Johnson hardware, but the manufacturers have changed over the years and I think some companies merged. You really have to check the box or the pictures to be sure of what you are getting.
Thank you very much!
Excellent
At 0.27 shows the door is not centered in the opening by at least an inch. Prep must take into account the door width and RO. That's the hard part for me. Door stop looks cool as is the black paint trick. Helpful video! Thanks
That particular pocket door was added on the outside of an existing wall, which is why it isn't centered. Other doors may be centered. It just depends on the existing circumstances when you are adding a pocket door after the fact.
I really enjoyed the video, while its a challenge for you to retain the backside drywall, I really want to maintain my drywall on the backside wall. Can you explain your perfected technique for removing the studs by removing the drywall from only 1 side.
+David Turocy Keep in mind that even if you are successful in keeping one side of the drywall, you'll almost certainly need to do some spackling. If your drywall was put up with nails, you can often slide a metal cutting blade from a reciprocating saw between the stud and drywall to cut the nails free. You'll still have a nail pop on the finish side, but that's easily repaired. If your drywall was put up with screws, it isn't worth trying to cut the screws the same way. In that case you can cut the stud into small sections and carefully pry the screws through the drywall while still attached to the section of stud. A multi-tool with a metal cutting blade is another option besides a recip saw. Honestly, though, it may just be quicker and easier to replace the drywall. As I said, sometimes I just amuse myself with little challenges like this so I don't get bored!
@@enduringcharm Amazing skills nonetheless!
I have watched several videos... I like the 4 wheel trucks that you used. Who makes the door hardware? I am getting ready to do 3 pocket doors and want to use the best of hardware. Thanks.
Thank you very well done. I have a 2X6 wall which is already built from a previous reno to fit a pocket door. The wall is separating a bathroom and a bedroom and there is a fan switch on the bathroom side where I wood build the pocket door. I already a the header so that is done. My concern is how to install the hardware inside the 2X6 framed wall with the electric box on one side. Is there enough room inside the wall to leave the electric box as is and still install the 2X4 door hardware. TX again and hopefully I will get info.
I suspect the electric box will be too deep and get in your way. Depending on how many wire connections are in the box you may be permitted to use a special shallow box. That might allow enough room. Bottom line: you should probably be prepared to move the electric.
One very important step was left out of this video. The installation of the mini-studs that come with the kit. How did you install the studs that go against the existing wall? The install instructions show that you nail the two header nails part way into the jam studs and then rotate the header into place, then secure the two nails. It would seem that the inner mini-studs that go against the existing wall must be secured to the header first, then place the header in place and nail the brackets. Is this how you did this?
You mean how did I get those buggers in place when the existing drywall was in the way? It's been awhile to remember, but I think I probably just slid them in from the side and screwed them into the header and the bottom plate by screwing right through the drywall. That just left some small holes to patch. I had already put the top track into place. Of course, then I would screw the drywall into the "studs" using shorter drywall screws that would not penetrate too far.
Thanks for the reply, and it was still an excellent video. What I ended up doing (I hadn't seen your reply at that point) was to put the header in place temporarily, mark the (4) mini-studs, cut them to the proper length, take the header down and screw the two studs that are against the existing drywall to the header . Then slip the two bottom plates on the two studs and stand the assembly into place and secure the header brackets. I then had to drill the concrete floor to anchor the stud plates. I then slipped the two remaining mini-studs in place on the anchor brackets and then secured them to the header. Job complete! Thanks again for the video and the reply.
@@pmartinagejr Great job anchoring to the concrete to keep the door as low to the concrete as possible.
I love the color of the floors! What type of wood/stain did you use? Thanks for sharing this info with us, by the way.
🙏🏼💕
I had to go look at what you meant! I think you are referring to the wide plank pine flooring, which is often called "pumpkin pine." There are many species of pine, but the particular one that has been used for centuries and which ages to that patina is longleaf pine. which is native to the southern US. Sometimes Eastern White pine is used for flooring, but that is softer and doesn't develop quite the same patina.
@@enduringcharm Ah, it's gorgeous! Thank you so much for this informative reply, I would have never guessed on my own. Have a great week and stay safe! 🤗
Did you say what brand this is and where you found the best price? Also, for a lot of people the dry wall would be up very common for a remodel to NOT remove more than needed.
I think there are only a couple of manufacturers distributing these kits nationally, Johnson Hardware being one.
What would it cost on an average to replace existing pocket doors? From where to where? I'm stuck with a house full of them! What is the average labor time per door installation, meaning to say from the most amount of time to the least. Also are the doors that you place in the wall any different from regular doors and if so how? Thank you....
+fede diego It's impossible for me to give you a precision answer because there are so many variables. The type and style of trim, whether it is painted or stained, the style and condition of hardware, the type of flooring if it was installed after the pocket doors, the type of wall finish and of course local labor rates and practices all have bearing. I'm assuming you wish to keep the pocket door idea but replace them with new doors? You do use standard doors in the pocket. To remove an existing door may not be too big a deal IF the hardware was designed that way. On the other hand, some hardware cannot be accessed without removing trim or more. You could easily spend half a day removing and replacing a pocket door if there is easy access. If there isn't, then all bets are off.
Thank you for the information. I think that I am starting to hate pocket doors!
@@fedediego7106 They should be replaced with premium heavy-duty hardware for long reliability.
Excellent video however, I do not understand the reason for the stop molding installed on the pocket side door jam. You mentioned it helps receive the door while opening. If the end of the door remains in the pocket while closed, do you still need the stop molding? Do you have a finished pic? Thank you, I'm just a DIY beginner.
Steven Oda Some carpenters do omit the stop moulding on the pocket side. It's an aesthetic choice and it can also be used to hide the bottom guides or to adjust the width of the door opening.
I need to leave the drywall intact on one side, just as you did. If the drywall that needs to remain is screwed/nailed/fastened in some way into the studs I need to remove, what is the best way to deal with that? I don't really even know how I would assume the position of the fasteners to try to cut through them with a multitool or some other saw. If I just try to rip the studs away, that's probably not going to work either.
Well, there are a number of ways to deal with that. If the drywall was installed with screws, it may not be worth trying to cut them with a saw. The hardened steel will just destroy the blade and the vibration will be a problem. Instead, you can carefully pry between the stud and the drywall with a flat bar and just pull the screw heads through the back. Or, if you find the screw heads with a magnet, you can jam a drill driver into the screw head and unscrew them. Then you'll just have to spackle those holes. Of course, if the drywall is also glued to the studs, then you'll have no choice but to try and use a multitool or reciprocating saw to cut through the glue first. Finally, if the drywall was installed with just nails, you won the lottery. They will cut easily with a reciprocating saw from behind.
How did you screw the pretend studs into the track header on the sheet rock side?
+Adam Rasmussen I can't quite remember what I did, but I think I probably just poked holes in the drywall where the screws had to go and spackled them up later. You could slide the "pretend studs" in place and then it was easy to measure where the screws needed to go.
Thanks for video! I'm assuming this is standard 2x4 wall? not a 2x6?
Yes, it was 2x4.
I know this was a non load bearing wall so your lintel was just butted up against the stud and thus there is no transfer of overhead weight down to the floor. If you are putting a pot door into a load bearing wall I assume the lintel must be supported by jack studs underneath the lintel ends or the lintel would be checked into an existing 4x2 stud. Is that right?
If you're working with a load bearing wall which has not previously had a header installed, then you need to put one in to span the entire distance or the opening and the door in the wall. It is much like a window, and you'll need jack and king studs. The header will need to be sized according to the weight it carries and the length it runs. If you get a long enough header with enough weight you'll need two studs under each end. Of course, these studs must also rest on some structure underneath--typically directly over floor joists or a beam. These "point loads" must be properly supported underneath because the weight continues downward.
Thanks, that answers my question nicely. My opening will run perpendicularly between two opposite walls which are parallel to the double floor joists beneath them. The wall with the opening runs within 200mm of the joist bearer so I should have sufficient underfloor support. I may block the joists under the wall opening to give additional bracing.
Building codes can be different all over, but in my area the inspector will want to see a doubled floor joist under a point load, and assuming that the joists and header are sized for the load. Don't be tempted to allow the jack studs for your header to rest on the plywood floor even if it is close to a joist. Instead, sister up a second joist or add a joist to get it under that point load. If you are forced to use blocking, it should be tied to doubled up joists typically, or it should rest on a beam. Obviously I'm not there to see specifically what you're talking about, but if you have any doubt add more wood! The last thing you want is sagging or movement in the header, which will telegraph through to the finish trim on the pocket door.
Did you reinstall the adjacent closet? I want to install a pocket door in a non load bearing wall that has walls tied into it on one side for a hallway. I wanted to make sure I could install the door and still anchor the adjacent wall. Can you show how that is done with a pocket door installation?
In this case, the closet was replaced by a laundry area. If you need to tie another wall to one of the pocket door walls it can be done, but you may need to build additional framing for strength. The flimsy metal "studs" provided by the pocket door kits, for example, are not appropriate for tying together a perpendicular wall. You may even need to frame out a second parallel wall with real studs next to the pocket door wall. There is no "standard" way of doing this, so if you don't have the experience to make the judgement call for your particular circumstances then you may need to consult with somebody locally who knows their stuff.
How much "rough opening" do you need in between the studs or two walls (depth)? I know I need like 4 inches of HEIGHT over door, & I need at least double the LENGTH of the door but, what about space in between walls/studs for a *1.38* thick door + tracking kit??
Wise DaGod If you are using a predesigned hardware kit, the kit will be set up for standard 2x4 or 2x6 stud walls. In other words, they already did the work and the calculations for you. For the other dimensions you need a little more than double the width of the door and for the header and the needed space for the track mechanism you'll need more than four inches overhead. Again, though, for a standard, non-load bearing 2x4 wall and standard door heights the kit should work without too much trouble. If you are working with a load bearing wall or with an older (60+) home with non-standard walls then you may need to do some finagling.
enduringcharm Thank you, very informative!
I can't draw a line on floor can i run a 2x4 across the ope nning to get a start edge to line up pocket studs
Any straight edge is fine, I suppose. Or, if you want to draw a line, just put down blue painter's tape first and the draw a line on the tape. You can peel it off when you no longer need it.