How to fit Hinges, Handles, Locks and Latches to Doors.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2023
- Changing doors or updating door furniture can smarten up any property and add value if you can do it without it costing a fortune. Watch as I show you how!
🧰 The tools and equipment I use: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/properdiy
Proper DIY Patreon Page: / properdiy
How to fit Perfect Door Hinges Video: • How to Fit Perfect Doo...
Amazon links to the products in this video...
► Self Centering Drill Bit: amzn.to/3Zzw9C1
► Trend T8 Router: amzn.to/46xQLwu
The Amazon links above are affiliate links. It doesn't cost you anything to click on them but I do earn a small commission if you do. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
Хобби
What no one told me was how much better the acoustics were in each room when you change hollow doors to solid ones. Noise doesn’t escape or enter the room so easily
The technique for drilling the two holes side by side is just ingenious. I hope to remember that when I have to take this approach.
I just came here to say the same 😂
Learn something new everyday
I've like most put a 23mm hole in and square it off with a chisel. But got some doors to fit gonna give this a go.
When you had traditional wooden doors you generally had a 9" bottom rail , so the bottom hinge was kept above that , or you had the end grain of the Tennons !
Never seen anyone fit the hinges on the same side as the lock and handles before 😄
Great video Stuart! Some handy tips and tricks, awesome!
5:03 - Perhaps Stuart should have actually looked at the hinges in other people's homes. 😀
@@ptousig hahaha, lol 😄
Fantastic Stuart! Viewers, don’t try to drill the “through” holes for the handle with just one pass with a long drill bit. The chances that the far side hole will end up in the exact right spot are slim. Mark both sides carefully and do the holes one side at a time, testing after each hole.
Quite a few hollow doors I've fitted have a larger wooden block inside where the handle/lock will go. You can screw the handle directly into that if you have one. It's only on one side of the door though (and usually indicated with an arrow on the top of the door) so it's worth checking before you start fitting either latch or hinges.
I use painters tape on the doors when marking out lines so after drilling it can just be peeled off without leaving pencil marks or embossed lines.
When I size a hollow door, I always trim the top off and if it exposes the cardboard inside I take the door skin of the off cut then glue and clamp it back in.
👍
4:49 the old standard of 6 and 9 inches for the hinge locations in the door was to avoid the tenons on a traditional door as to avoid putting screws into and chiseling into end grain.
I think that it is also a "perspective" thing: when standing next to the door the distance between hinge and door bottom will seem smaller than it really is but will appear equal with the top hinge if spaced at 6 and 9 inches since your eyeline is closer to the top hinge. I hope that this makes sense!
Nice video Stuart.
There is a solution when you trim the door to far. You can take some of the cardboard out or push in. Then glue a wooden bar in. A bit work but it works.
A few "tradesmen" could do with watching this. (I'm looking at you Bovis!).
I like the idea of those through bolt jobs, I'm forever sticking matchsticks in my doors to give the little screws some bite as they are forever going loose!
Just note cheaper barrels don't have a through hole for the through bolts
Here in Romania we have these cheap doors as well but they've got pine instead of MDF as backbone.
Those door handles with the circular mounts are a proper pain, especially when the supplied screws appear to be made from cheese and have points that have been deliberately blunted before packaging.
The handles need to be fitted with the through bolts supplied otherwise they will quickly become loose.
@edthompson9337 a lot of them were only supplied with crappy wee screws. I haven't fitted any of those for a while, precisely because of the crap screws, so I haven't seen any with through bolts.
@@mcdon2401 Fitted loads and never seen them without the through bolts, bit fiddly but hold well once in place.
Handy tip for the latch hole drilling 😀
Good explanation of what can be a tricky job, Stuart. Pro chippie here, a few tips worth mentioning:
-If you have to cut down the height, do it from the bottom otherwise the top rail will look out of proportion. You only ever need to plane the top if the frame header is off level. If you have to go more than 25mm, plane the hardboard face off the wooden bar you've cut from the rail, then glue and clamp the bar back into the hollow gap.
-Hollow doors have "lock-block" of wood fitted in the core on one side, at handle height, which you can use to set your furniture. This will be indicated by the word "lock" on the top of the door. Put a bit of tape on the door at handle height, to remind you when you're fitting it.
-Normal screws are fine in the lock-block for long backplate handles, but always use through-bolts for round-rose handles.
-Couple of other ways to do the latch hole. One is to use a 22mm bit and square the top and bottom of the hole with a chisel. Easy with hollow core and engineered doors, a bit more work with solid doors. You can get away with a 25mm bit, but it's worth drilling a test hole on some scrap wood to check if the hole peeks out the sides. I find using a sharp forstner bit on the door edge first, with a pilot point to start, prevents any chip out or wandering. Once you've gone through the edge, you can blast it with a flat bit or auger bit. My only issue with drilling two holes is there's less wood to fix the latch faceplate, but whatever works, works!
Love the channel - every day's a school day! Cheers
Great comment
the 'oval' hole trick is great, thank you.
Excellent. Your videos are like having a big DIY book in video form. You do realise, Stuart, you're becoming the Barry Bucknell of UK RUclips. Ha ha.
Not sure why I watched this, as a carpenter, but still enjoyed it all the same
Love that oval drilling technique, definitely using that next
That was worth watching just for the tip about reversing the hinge for repeatability when marking out
I stopped using spade bits when I found Forstner bits, really good for drilling overlapping holes as well.
Yeah, spade bits are cheap, but not only are they more likely to slip into nearby holes, they can also lead to resonance and you end up with a hexagon instead of a circle. Forstner bits hold their position and the hole shape much better (at the cost of slightly more friction).
The hinge position is about perspective when you’re looking at the door hinges look the same
My favorite part is having the handle on the same edge as the hinge
Best D.I.Y channel on RUclips....keep up the good work!!!
I had to chuckle. Our house was struck by a cyclone many years ago. The top part of the house was lifted up and skewed slightly. The house itself is not completely square, including the door frames (metal). Despite this, the house itself has been brought up to code and is completely livable. It reains however, an oddity, but we love it
I'm glad that I found this channel
The chain drilling technique is great!
Thank you, I have to install a door and it will be very helpful. The effect of the hinges mounted on the same side of the lock for demonstration is very funny ^____^
the callipers made me laugh as I just watched your Temu video yesterday 🙂, brilliant as usual thx
Your demonstration of all the work necessary was very useful in assuring me that I make the right decision to employ a professional carpenter/joiner to do such skilled tasks!
Hinges are cut 6”, 9” or 10”,14” regarding foreshortening.
When you stand back they look equal.
An old architecture trick. 👍
Quite correct 👌
@@mrdee1986
You’re welcome.
Old school vs Festool. 😂
The hinge is 9 inches at the bottom so that when looking down at it, it looks the same spacing as six inches from the top. If both are at 6 inches, when looking down the bottom hinge looks like it is not evenly spaced with the top hinge. I remember seeing that This Old House or some similar program.
It be interesting to see you put same things but on solid wooden door and solid core doors, and how to also put on lock that’s required a key to lock it and open it ie external door or front door and how to replace chain on door (same side as hinges go) so the doors shut by themselves
Can you do a follow-on video on fitting the door into a door frame please?.
Your presentation of stuff is just amazingly clear.
I have gained so much knowledge and gotten so much better well done.
I have watched door lock installation videos all week and this man is clearly a master craftsman. Techniques and tips in this video are unique and I have not seen them in other videos. Thank you 10/10 video.
Thanks Stuart for the really useful tips 😊
Love the two holes thingy. Very clever. Cheers for sharing.
Thoroughly enjoy your videos. Thanks very much. Ps I clearly need to sharpen my chisels better 😂
You are an absolute genius. I've just found your channel and cheesed off that I've not seen you before cos I might have saved some money😂. Subscribed straight away. The tip re using spade bits side by side is something I've never seen before, and really changes the game. Thanks 👍
I'm now gonna binge watch 😂
And if you have issues getting those through bolts to line up just use a plastic straw that goes through the hole to the other side and that gives them something to sit in while you line them up instead of the things falling into the void in the door.
Trust me, it saves hours of swearing trying to line the bloody things up.
Excellent as always, great tips! Are you going to do a companion video on fitting door frames next?
Found the through bolts invaluable when fixing handles on one of these "cardboard" doors.
If you update the video suggest you include some close ups of the holes you chopped out for door lock etc.
Now I know how to fit the hinges, handles and locks. How about how to fit the door. Really enjoy the programs. 👍
Another very interesting and informative video Stuart, Many Thanks.
Thanks Stuart, was only thinking about fitting handles after painting the rad and ceiling.
today..l'll have a practice on piece of wood first..
When I did my chippy apprenticeship, I was told that the reason for 9" at the bottom hinge and 6" at the top hinge was to do with perspective. A bit like the writing on a road painted on in large stretchy writing - looking down the distance of 9" doesn't look that far and 6" at the top is much closer to eye level.
Great Stuart, well done!
Perfect timing Stuart as I'm about to tackle the horrendous door installs in my property... !
excellent advice
As usual some useful tips 😀 Thanks
Lovely job
That "bathroom" lockset is also about the same size as the old fashioned mortise locksets that take the old fashioned skeleton style keys. I've replaced several of those in my home as the old keys were long gone before I bought the place. Fortunately they still make the old style locksets so I only replaced the inner workings and left the original knobs and plates and now they're functional again as I have new skeleton style keys with the new locksets.
Great video as always
Great job Stuart
Great tips and hints as usual
Thank you. Very useful
Amazing. Thanks for the tips!
Great tips thanks
Great video !! thanks
Great job 😃👍
Very good, thanks!
Great information Stuart, especially the double drilling, and as always clearly explained. Thanks.
Great tips thank you. 👍
Some great tips there, on how to.... Thank you.
Nice work, very useful 🇬🇧👍
Excellent video as usual Stuart well done
now just need to learn to hang it. thanks mate
It 6-9 inches for an interior door for an external door it’s 3-6-middle. For hinges. These spacing are for visual on internal but strength on external. You can use a trimming router for cutting out.
7 from the top 9 from the bottom, we won't fall out over an inch,but otherwise you are correct 😊
Just wondering where all the content for the new land improvement is coming out
Excellent
I have learned so much from your videos. Going to be using some of these techniques later today!
As I found out to my cost, butchering in a bathroom door lock, chisels and drill bits need to be really sharp.
Wow, that was certainly worth watching.
I particularly like that trick with the depth stop on the router!
Thank you, Stuart.
very useful
I am a DIYER but had to change 8 old doors to prefinished ones (24 hinges in total) - I already had a router so decided to buy Robin Clevett 76mm hinge jig. Saved me so much time and stress! I actually enjoyed it!
Been tempted by that jig for a while! Is it worth it?
@@sajulldin5147 I guess it depends how many hinges you need to do and what type of doors. In my case loads of hinges and finished doors that would have looked bad if my wood chiselling skills weren’t upto scratch. My doors were £200 each x 8 doors so spending £70 on a jig made sense
Easier to make your own jig at little or no cost if you're handy with a router.
@@RB-xg2vzTheir website says the 76mm jig is £28.50 ... What jig did you buy for £70?
@@chrisu5550 I think the jig is about £30, then you need the specific router bit which is about £20 and then postage. So let’s say £60 all in
Great video, and great timing as we've just started replacing all ours, only 14 doors to do! How about a video on replacing hinges etc on doors that already have them fitted, rather than new, we've found it quite challenging, but the drill bits you recommended along with gluing dowels into the existing holes has really helped. We could not find drop in replacements which has meant a LOT of work. BTW my son still talks about meeting you and having his photo taken at the NEC, thank you for being so welcoming 😄
I have just replaced handles for 11 doors inn my home after having the doors spray painted. Put on exactly the same handles for mine which are solid wood. Wondered what ghe bolt things where for as there where no instructions in the boxes, off course i didn't need them. 😂
Rectangular tube latch? Cut a slot with a router 🤔
Perfect! 👍 Clear and informatieve as ever. I hope you will continue this for a very long time! I’m really hooked to this chanel. Although in Holland we do use somethimes different installation tools and methods, your channel is still very helpfull!
Stuart, another fantastic video and it has given me the confidence to have a go at some new doors, I’m sure the wife will be delighted lol 😝 Can you provide a link for the self centering drill bits pls.
Great tips here from a pro
Only discovered your site a couple of weeks back. Really enjoy it. Do a lot aroun d the house and this helps to reinforce what I do as well as teach me a few things I do not know. Very practical. From the other side of the world. N.Z.
I had 150 year+ solid wood doors in my bedrooms and were thickly overpainted badly and repaired so much over their life.
The doorframes are so out of square it would have been quite a chore to put in new door, so I repaired all the doors instead. Probably took me twice as long and the costs were comparable to fitting a new door, but they really are worth saving, the wood is so old and slow grown, it is almost as tough as oak.
Great video thanks for the tips especially multi hole with spade bit, how much grief will that stop.
Hi. Awesome content 👌. Really good professional ideas there. They work very well. Thank you for sharing. 👍
Great video Stuart, very useful and handy tip's . Those hollow doors are useless my Mum and Dad have got them up stairs in there house horrible to work with. Like all your video's good and useful Take care
Fantastic video i have metal door frames to make it a bit harder
Hi Stuart. Its Purely aesthetic that the bottom hinge is 9"up. From our eyeliner it just looks right. A wall cupboard will have hinges equally spaced because that looks right from our eyeliner, if that makes any sense 😁
My composite doors came with a note saying one side was specifically for hinges and the other side was for the lock so had a solid lock plate inside. Do they not do that now?
Thanks Stuart, coincidentally I had to fit a new latch the day before this video popped up, I'm comfortable in doing these jobs (the old fashioned way) but it's always worth watching your videos for those little tips I might not have known.
The main take away for me is to avoid doors like that, we have similar faux panelled hollow doors but at least the timber edges are softwood and a decent thickness not 20mm MDF - those look a poor alternative to me !
I would definitely reinforce / seal the routed / drilled MDF surface(s) by brushing them with a 50-50 water and PVA glue mix (and letting it dry). It makes it much harder and more resistant to moisture.
A lot of chippies seem to fit three hinges now all equally spaced out when its a new door and frame.
I was told that the bottom hinge is higher as when you look down it looks the same as the top one! Why not use a lock template kit for lining up the latch?
Through bolts look brilliant.Are they available as exposed screws?
Nice tidy jobs pal
Genuine question not a comment on how it's done. Could you use the router to cut the holes for the latch? Instead of drilling all the holes?
Another great informative video Stuart.👍
I could have done with it about 4 months ago though as I tried in vain to dissuade my son from changing the solid wood doors in my late mother in laws home. (He bought it after she passed on)
6 Horrible horrible new, hollow, part glazed doors that I ended up changing (and keeping the originals for myself. 😉)
The main issue I found wasn’t so much the doors though but the cheap loose circlips on the handles themselves which seemed loose. Cheap far eastern tat to be honest. Kids today eh?
Now.
Idea for next video.
Do you have any tips for fitting handles onto kitchen cupboards by any chance? I bought a guide from the well known 2 letter diy store with holes that doesn’t even fit THEIR handles so will probably end up having to make my own.
All the best good sir.
Great video Stuart. When chiselling for hinges and latch face plates is there a way to control the depth or is it just trial and error🤔