So when you give rope by lead climbing you do not actually have to hold the device. If the system locks then yes, you go to the knob in middle to release but at other times during the climb you do not actually have to have it in the hand.
Jim, since I'm also on the "dark side", I was wondering what makes the eddy superior form your point of view for lead rope soloing. Ive tried with a standard grigri and the soloist, i kinda like both...
@@michaelseemann4305 If I use Eddie well, It can catch safely even if I fall upside down. This is why Eddie is better than other devices. At least in the lead rope solo..
What do you mean exactly? The OHM assists a smaller belayer by adding friction to the system when the heavier climber falls so the belayer doesn't get lifted up as high. The Eddy has a break assist feature like a grigri so if the belayer does something wrong chances are that break would stop the climber, but if you are worried about the belayer being to light for the climber you'll still have to use an OHM to add friction to the system. There are other tricks you could use too, but the Eddy on its own won't add more friction to the system. It'll just add to the breaking power of the devise when catching a fallen climber.
There is a small ball inside the cam. Its role is very large. Sir and Lory have no ball. So I can't give a slack. It is inadequate for climbing and is used for industrial purposes. I have eddy. I haven't found any shortcomings yet.
So when you give rope by lead climbing you do not actually have to hold the device. If the system locks then yes, you go to the knob in middle to release but at other times during the climb you do not actually have to have it in the hand.
Ironically the best device for the dark art of lead rope soloing! Even superior to the Silent Partner. Definitely wonky for lead belaying a partner.
Jim, since I'm also on the "dark side", I was wondering what makes the eddy superior form your point of view for lead rope soloing. Ive tried with a standard grigri and the soloist, i kinda like both...
@@michaelseemann4305 If I use Eddie well, It can catch safely even if I fall upside down. This is why Eddie is better than other devices. At least in the lead rope solo..
yeesh. everything people don't like about the grigri+ with a few added flaws. weird how the jul line is so solid and the eddy is just... this
Good review .... but not a great device for all the reasons you mention. Looking forward to the review of the Mammut Smart Alpine
Does the device have any sort of assist during a fall, like the Ohm?
What do you mean exactly? The OHM assists a smaller belayer by adding friction to the system when the heavier climber falls so the belayer doesn't get lifted up as high. The Eddy has a break assist feature like a grigri so if the belayer does something wrong chances are that break would stop the climber, but if you are worried about the belayer being to light for the climber you'll still have to use an OHM to add friction to the system. There are other tricks you could use too, but the Eddy on its own won't add more friction to the system. It'll just add to the breaking power of the devise when catching a fallen climber.
@@ryantilley9063 Thank you!
Nice video!
Damn, it’s more expensive than the Grigri!
Yeah but if you use it correctly its much better.
This seems to be the same thing as the Singing Rock SIR.
It is being sold under more brands. Originaly it’s produced by Anthron in Slovenia. And it’s called Lory.
There is a small ball inside the cam. Its role is very large. Sir and Lory have no ball. So I can't give a slack. It is inadequate for climbing and is used for industrial purposes. I have eddy. I haven't found any shortcomings yet.
It looks really bad