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Love the video, info and presentation style as always. Thanks Ryan! Any word on that tether comparison video with the Edelrid Switch?

Hey Ryan, thanks. Great info. Your analysis helps me but could you please clarify your height? In think maybe you misspoke when telling us your height. You said you were 5'-9 1/2"ish but then you said you were 173cm but 173cm = 5'-8". Please clarify. (174cm = 5'-8 1/2". 175cm = 5'-9". 176cm = 5'-9 1/4". 177cm = 5'-9 1/2". 178cm = 5'- 10").

I'm just imagining the ATC exploding dramatically at 5:45

No rain jacket? no puffy jacket? no Bottle of Water? no Food for the day of climbing?? you got to count those things too

So I just came across your channel and I did subscribe. Your obviously knowledgeable in ropes so maybe you can help me with a different situation. I want a rope for timing down loads that's very good to work with as far as practicing knots and here's the other part.... it would be safe to use for climbing JUST IN AN EMERGENCY. Hope you have an opinion. If at all possible I'd like something on the thinner side.... 8-10mm thanks so much!

Ryan when did you send this climb? Is September accurate?

Good video…what shoes were the 3/4 shank boots? I don’t think you mentioned the model.

Sounds like you're primarily shit talking HowNot2 and Hard is Easy. It should be worth noting that HN2 started because there was not much testing at all being done for highline rigging which has different considerations than climbing. And the Hard is Easy analysis video on grigri technique issues is great because I can send it to people who have shit grigri technique. Because despite Petzl's instructions, the vast majority of people I see lead belaying with a grigri (inside and outside) use potentially dangerous bad technique.

Hi Ryan, besides the points you are making in the video, I found another pitfall in watching instructional climbing videos on RUclips. Which is the region the video is from. I also have watched many, many climbing videos on RUclips and lots from certified professional guides like yourself. And what was confusing to me, were the different standards practiced in differents areas of the world. The techniques shown in a video might be perfectly accurate but might not be the standard or being accepted in your local climbing region. I roughly distinguish 3 climbing techniques / ethics paradigms, being American, European and British. As there might be even more, I always take this into account when watching such videos. Being a European climber, I am fascinated with techniques that we basically do not use (anymore). Such as quad anchors or belaying your second directly from the belay loop, or rope loop as the British do! Or another example, I was thaught to use a prusik knot as a third hand. When I brought up tying the third hand as an auto block, I got strange looks and was not allowed it by my instructor. As it is not in our standard. The main point is that there are so many ways to perform these techniques and multiple correct ones as well. All these videos can be dazzling. However, it can also provide you a wider perspective and make you think more about why you do certain things the way you do them. I stick as much as possible to how I was thaught, but try to take all the extra knowledge with me as tools and use it to critically evaluate climbing situations.

“Attention monetization” breeds tabloid content. Most RUclips and social media “influencers” peddle parlor tricks for views.

gi gi

How have the Dynafit Blacklight boots been? Off topic but worth an ask.

This is great

So damn beautiful

North sister (Oregon) makes this look pleasant.

Where you at? What’s the shr?

So many crampons! Nice in-depth overview! You can totally get away with using the petzl front bails on the full auto BDs. Also don’t forget about the importance of the anti-balling plates!

Microspikes work with just about any shoe or boot. I use them a LOT in winter: they're great on basic boots when shoveling or snow blowing, they're great on sneakers when there are icy patches on the driveway, etc. They're perfect as an everyday around-town tool for taking a walk in winter when sidewalks might not have been properly shoveled. Very handy & cheap. For "real snow" & flat or mildly-sloped ground I have snowshoes. They've got built-in crampons-like features, though not suitable for properly steep terrain they're quite nice for winter hiking. Too bulky & heavy to use for approach footwear, of course, but they have their niche.

System recovery is made easier and less energy-intensive by first applying a pre-tension to the rope (by pulling on it statically), then pulling on it with a sharp stroke and, very importantly, letting the rope bounce freely.

Apparently I was using my sport Quickdraws backwards, it makes since now I have a set of bd stoppers. Thinking about totems but like big Camalots

Don't clip a totem like that 🥶

Hi Ryan. You're among the many wonderful climbing guides I follow and enjoy videos from. You're out there in the mountains and rocks, you know your stuff, and definitely hold a crucial role & "part in the community". I also appreciate the time you spend to film videos and provide educational content. It's definitely hard work as well. In the same way, there are also others out there that too HAVE THEIR PART in the community: Manufacturers, athletes, engineers, shops, developers, consumers, gyms, guides, and yes...even those that go down rabbit holes to test things Within our brief life of limited time, money, resources, education, opportunities, etc means that not a single one of us is gonna be some "ultimate" individual that can do everything, and do it right. You, being an instructor and educator, imagine having additional guides by your side, engineers to consult, more tech & a film crew, video editors, lawyers, some old guy with amazing stories to tell, and someone with a charismatic personality for film.... imagine the amazing content that could be created! But alas, the reality is many of us are just doing the best with what we got, and don't got. Ever upload a video and been like, "Man, that could have been better, but oh well, I guess it's going out like that."? I can understand your frustration. And it's also important to keep in mind that information and testing is merely "objective". What someone decides to do with that knowledge is where it's "subjective". Example: Sling rated to 22kN. Tie knots = reduction of strength. That is PURELY "objective", and even the "backyard testing" people do it too beyond what manufacturers do as well. Now comes along a person that thinks that's bad, tying knots...well...that's really "subjective". With more understanding can they be able to differentiate when tying knots is good and acceptable, and when it might not be a good idea.---And not everybody talking about it, or testing it will and can talk about those nuances. As someone who has developed routes, been climbing (yes) "20+ years" and also "privileged" enough to do what I do and know what I know, also lies the trap of "elitism": That no one else knows what they're talking about or should even speak on something unless they should hold a AMGA Certified Guide title, or Engineering degree, PhD, an exhausted list of bagged peaks and ascents, etc next to their name to share what they know and have learned? Is that really fair and a healthy approach & stance to learning and sharing ideas/experiences? The more I learn, the more I find out just how much I don't know, skills I should learn, etc, and the importance of remaining humble. But I also try to understand there's value in other's passion, though it may not be applicable to me or it doesn't excite me, it's still great that someone is in a way contributing to the community. TLDR: You have a valuable part in the community Ryan; please don't so easily dismiss other’s part too.

Thoughts on the blue ice crampons with the thicker dcf strap as opposed to the two thin cords on the petzl crampons?

Great video Ryan. I have the same problem: the RUclips channels are selling ideas and procedures which are very advanced and involve very small differences. What climbers need to do is LEARN THE BASICS. Get out and climb. A lot. Use the simple techniques which we all use 99.9% of the time because we KNOW THEY WORK. Get the basics absolutely dialled so we can do them in the dark, in snow, in rain, when we're exhausted. Have I realised I needed a screamer on a stubby screw with one half rope clipped? Yeah, a couple of times. But I've clove hitched a sling anchor with a knot in it thousands of times.

Can you include the costs?

This feels like a massive case of sour grapes, frankly. Most of the things you're complaining about, are things that "these youtube channels" have tested and demonstrated for the public, like "knots make things weaker, but that's usually okay," and "devices usually catch you, but bad technique can make them fail." If "the public" is giving you crap for stuff that they don't understand, that's not on other youtube channels.

Would love a video on how u stay in shape, prevent injury, pre/post hike stretches/warmups

Snaggletooth has become my go-to crampon for technical alpine. Love that single horizontal point.

I bought the flexible leaf spring for kahtoolas hiking crampón and put them on my g12s, works great and don’t have to worry about breaking it with my super flexible barefoot hiking boots

How about grivel ones? Have you tried them?

As always your content is great as is your advice. Still I would like to add one thing: In recent years I observed a trend towards overselling security in the climbing world where I live, wich is Germany. I’m under the impression that with the popularisation of climbing and the commercialisation of climbing as a sport (wich it isn’t to me), the need for safety assurance grew. It grew to the point that manufacturers and gym entrepreneurs alike sell climbing at the same risk-level as regular fitness gyms sell their offerings. But climbing to me is no sport in its traditional sense and it’s not completely safe either. There’s always a risk involved and that risk is what makes climbing what it is. And I think this awareness of the risks involved, be it in rock climbing or mountaineering, is what makes practicing them respectively safer. The other way round that means that people who learned climbing in a gym being taught that everything is perfectly safe will then take great risks outdoors without understanding what they are doing. How does all of this connect to your video? I think we have to teach people to make their own decisions and to take responsibility for their own actions. And only then we can use these data points to refresh memory, to learn more or to avoid dangers. But in the end it’s everyone’s own responsibility to asses the risk they are taking.

This guy is addicted to harnesses.

Liked the rant, was fun to watch

What’s your opinion on the channel Short Guy Beta? He is very direct and is one of my favourite channels, but he is recreational

No bowline? And I still enjoy your channel.

I feel that your point is that there is only ao much that can be taught in a video. Break tests, how to vids, what i bring vids, are helpful, but dont translate directly to doing complex manuvers and making critical decisions while actually on the rock. The "brain fog" that you are talking about is the fact that, with all this additional information, someone may not follow a rational thought proccess and get hurt. Is this correct? Critical thinking is something that has to be learned in each environment, and practiced in and outside of the field. I can definetely see your point of view, that hours of watch time on YT do not equate to actual experence.

Bottom line: we have to tie fuvking knots in our slings to use them 😂😂😂😂😂. Deal. Wtf do these people expect. How are we to climb and never use knots 😂

Looking forward to your simu-rap video hahaha. As someone who loves to simu-rap, recently had a very experience guide advice against it, wanna get your opinions too

Many of those channels are only 'content creators'. That is it. They only make videos they believe will get views which translates into ad revenue. Seems to be where youtube is going.

Just like any other "expert" that decides they want to make videos, you need to separate the wheat from the chaff.

I think this is the beauty of RUclips. You get exposed to a lot of information and it's up to you to synthesize that into a coherent whole picture. It is cool to have very detailed videos which give you a whole picture like Hard is Easy, but it's also good to have shorter very focused videos like How Not 2 which have very specific small tests which need to be taken in a larger context. I think most people probably understand this but maybe your experience is that a lot of people don't.

I know the channel you mean and a lot of it may not be that “important”, but for me, seeing how cams and nuts fail in rock was highly illuminating. Seeing shock loads on static gear compared with the manufacturers own videos was reassuring, seeing how certain anchors load share or act redundantly was useful information (don’t obsess about sharing loads), see how toothed devices vs non toothed devices compare on ropes debunked the fear of teeth, etc. there may be a bunch of not particularly useful information but here are also some really useful gems, like what’s the highest load you’ll typically see on your gear in a fall, how much does rope drag affect this, etc. plus there has been more than one qualified climber/guide involved. As for UIAA, any organisation that doesn’t share there testing methodology and results unless you pay thousands doesn’t really have my respect. The UIAA tests themselves aren’t really useful without context (max falls is a classic example that without knowing the test scenario causes stupid feats in people). A great example of how standards can cause problems is with the recent dyneema reinforced ropes which cause significantly higher impact forces on gear, which has caused at least one dangerous near miss. Everything needs context. Stupid viewers will be a danger to themselves whatever channel they watch

I of course agree it's annoying to have to explain to people that some consideration they learned elsewhere is less important than the one it ends up sacrificing. I'm not sold on the idea that professional communities make the best choices. Or, more precisely, I am not sold that following their choices blindly gives the best results. One example is extended rappel. It's awesome once you learn it but has a steeper learning curve. I see so many newbies forget (after a few weeks) what attaches where and end up with the rap device defeating the prusik. The problem appears to go away with practice, but I also see people who successfully went through a basic alpine program, passed an exam, rappelled a few times, then a year later forgot the magic and made the same mistake again. I genuinely wonder if this failure mode is less dangerous than the one where you defeat the prusik above the device by grabbing it with your hand (or the one where a 3rd hand on the leg loop gets defeated by raising the leg). One disadvantage I think professionals have is that their work usually does not involve seeing how their students' knowledge deteriorates over time. You make a very good point that years don't count for much - people's brains have different mistake tendencies, one person's lack of mistakes with a method doesn't predict others' success.

There are a lot of misconceptions about climbing gear that do not originate from youtube and are not in any way covered by UIAA standards. There is a huge grey area in practice: can you trust a carabiner you dropped? Or a sling that has been a week/month/year/decade in the sun? How strong is a biner levered over an edge? Not to mention that equalization is taught as standard practice and it's actually pretty much wrong in reality! UIAA standards don't cover everything and manufacturers will just say that you shouldn't do some things ever because they want their asses covered from liability. And there are degrees to what you can do with gear even if it's not generally condoned. You yourself sir did rope solos with Revo which is what the manufacturer will tell you not to do. Understanding real limits of our gear is not just good for a trivia quiz, it can ease our minds when we have to do or accidentally do something less than ideally.

Very well said Ryan. I’ve noticed a similar theme among many hiking, peak bagging, and mountaineering related channels. Often they will make videos showing themselves completing a route that they are woefully underprepared for. I recently watched a video featuring a couple on the Mountaineers Route of Whitney soloing some exposed mixed terrain on the Final 400. It brings all the attention to the fact that they summited and you can too, rather than the danger of the climb. It ignores that their success is one data point, and others haven’t been as fortunate, and have lost their lives as a result. It’s problematic because RUclipsrs are incentivized by RUclips to make this kind of clickbait and it can set a really dangerous example.

I can understand that from your position, those types of videos are kinda worthless, but for someone who is getting into the sport and has no idea what a Newton is, these video's are very informative. You can learn everything from a guide, but it's not very cost effective. It's better to study at home and come with a lot of knowledge to a guide and put that knowledge in practice in a more safe and controlled environment.

I have watched many hours of Ryan Jenks' videos and learnt so much. His point exactly is that standards are great, and if something is rated by a standard, it's super good enough. However, a lot of climbers, myself included, don't just know what these standards mean. Standards are formed in the lab, but how does that apply to the real world? What actually happens if you cross the line? If I'm on the line, my mind isn't so rational that I can look at my rope and feel safe because my gear is rated. I want to KNOW what that means. Ryan helps with that. Breaking gear fear. There is also a lot of dogma in climbing, some of which is not intuitive or even rational. Like changing out metal hardware if you have dropped it from a height. Or soft goods having an incredibly short lifespan. Don't be dogmatic. Be rational, investigative, and cautious. Thanks for all your great videos though!

If you're using a munter to lower, you do not have to fight the rope because you can use the third hand the same way you do with the ATC. I just don't like using a munter loaded unless necessary because it kinks your climbing rope😉

How long is that sling? And doesn't locking the chest carabiner into the top microtrax carabiner cross load it?

When it comes to Mega Jul, I like rappelling with it, even without third hand. I believe this device even better fits description of "atc and third hand built in together in one device". Especially since it's very similar to a regular tuber, it even has two holes for rope. HOWEVER mega jul gets really nice at rappelling after you clip a small carabiner into the thumb hole in the device. Then it works as grigri like lever.