Awesome videos, thanks for sharing! Excited to see more of these! I really appreciate that you show building your anchors-so many first person vids on RUclips just cut right when they get to the belay.
These videos are really useful and instructive. THANK YOU!!!. It helps a lot to see how you place the cams and set the anchors. Although you may already know this, I wanted to tell you that, when the pitons are placed in a way that makes it difficult to clip, one option is to pass a nut through them, leaving the head of the nut on one side and the wire on the other. Then you clip it onto the wire (as normal…). THANK YOU!!
Thanks for the comment, for sure I could've tried a little harder to get that piton clipped. I'm pretty sure I could've slipped a sling through the hole on the piton and clipped that, I was just being lazy. If I knew the climbing would be a little more full on for a few moves after that I would've tried harder haha!
Did you have to downclimb at 32:00 when the rope looked stuck? It's hard to tell from the video, but that looks like a long way above the last piece to be downclimbing with a stuck rope. Looks like an amazing climb, though.
Thanks for the great video! I have a question about that first anchor - if the horn was too big to double the cordalette around and tie an overhand with the two loops (as you did), could you wrap the cordalette around without doubling it and tie a BHK (putting a locking biner in the extra loop)? I did a climb recently where the boulder was too big to double the cordalette around. Thanks!
Thanks for the question, ya you could do that, and I've made that exact anchor a lot of times. Often if I have to use a single strand to go around a larger feature then I opt for the rope. If you watch me build the second anchor, the rock I use is way to big to fit my doubled cord around so I loop the rope around it and tie a BHK. The rope is a lot thicker and more burly than cord so it's better as a single strand, and you have a ton of it! The only cruxy part is how you have to transfer the second to a differnet anchor if you're leading the next pitch. If you swing leads, or are topping out the route then it's no big deal.
@@Biamondos982 the camera doesn’t effect me at all, if anything I feel like it’s more of a hinderance. I only recently started bringing it out more because it feels more worth it to film on route. Before I just didn’t really have the energy to deal with it as much.
Ryan, I love this video, so fun to watch it from your perspective! It was an incredible adventure! Thank you for your expertise and patience! Joan
Thanks Joan, you made an excellent co- star in the video too! I would love to tie in with you again in the future!
Really enjoy watching a professional in an alpine setting! Thanks for posting!
Awesome videos, thanks for sharing! Excited to see more of these! I really appreciate that you show building your anchors-so many first person vids on RUclips just cut right when they get to the belay.
Thanks Ryan for taking us on the journey!
Solid rock, pleasure to watch
These videos are really useful and instructive. THANK YOU!!!. It helps a lot to see how you place the cams and set the anchors. Although you may already know this, I wanted to tell you that, when the pitons are placed in a way that makes it difficult to clip, one option is to pass a nut through them, leaving the head of the nut on one side and the wire on the other. Then you clip it onto the wire (as normal…). THANK YOU!!
Thanks for the comment, for sure I could've tried a little harder to get that piton clipped. I'm pretty sure I could've slipped a sling through the hole on the piton and clipped that, I was just being lazy. If I knew the climbing would be a little more full on for a few moves after that I would've tried harder haha!
So good!
Ryan will you be guiding in the Eastern Sierra this winter? I'll be in Bishop all winter.
Cheers
Did you have to downclimb at 32:00 when the rope looked stuck? It's hard to tell from the video, but that looks like a long way above the last piece to be downclimbing with a stuck rope. Looks like an amazing climb, though.
You're very courageous, I'd place 3x the gear 😅
The camera make the terrain look a lot steeper than it actually is, for the most part you're kind of running up slabby rock.
Thanks for the great video! I have a question about that first anchor - if the horn was too big to double the cordalette around and tie an overhand with the two loops (as you did), could you wrap the cordalette around without doubling it and tie a BHK (putting a locking biner in the extra loop)? I did a climb recently where the boulder was too big to double the cordalette around. Thanks!
Thanks for the question, ya you could do that, and I've made that exact anchor a lot of times. Often if I have to use a single strand to go around a larger feature then I opt for the rope. If you watch me build the second anchor, the rock I use is way to big to fit my doubled cord around so I loop the rope around it and tie a BHK. The rope is a lot thicker and more burly than cord so it's better as a single strand, and you have a ton of it!
The only cruxy part is how you have to transfer the second to a differnet anchor if you're leading the next pitch. If you swing leads, or are topping out the route then it's no big deal.
Climbing with an emotional support rope.
Do you think you're any more courageous with the camera on than normal? Curious if this affects your mindset at all.
@@Biamondos982 the camera doesn’t effect me at all, if anything I feel like it’s more of a hinderance. I only recently started bringing it out more because it feels more worth it to film on route. Before I just didn’t really have the energy to deal with it as much.
@@ryantilley9063 The perspective is awesome. Thank you for replying!