What breaks first??? Petzl GriGri or the Ropes? + Beal Birdie Tests!
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- Опубликовано: 13 июн 2024
- I thought Petzl GriGri's would break the ropes if pulled hard enough but they slipped, even the 11mm rope. These were slow pull tests and I'm curious what will happen in future drop tower test of the same thing. We also tested a Beal Birdie which feels like a hardy steel body but I wasn't that fond of using it when it because it went from locked to open quickly.
OUR RESULTS:
*8mm vs GriGri - Slipped at 2.9kn and while holding tail 3.40kn
*10mm vs GriGri - Slipped at 7.30kn
*11mm vs GriGri - Slipped at 6.76kn, then tied tail off and guts exploded out of GriGri at 9.97kn
*Finished breaking grigri back pin with soft shackle at 15.45kn
*8mm vs Birdie - Slipped at 3.77kn
*10mm vs Birdie - Desheathed rope at 9.95kn
*11mm vs Birdie - Desheathed rope at 11.89kn
*Soft Shackle vs Birdie - 36kn
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00:00 GriGri and Birdies
00:58 Grateful
02:51 Machine and Load cells
03:43 GriGri vs 8mm rope
05:08 GriGri vs 10mm rope
05:55 GriGri vs 11mm rope
08:39 Finish Breaking GriGri
10:25 Donations
11:16 Birdie vs 8mm
12:00 Birdie vs 10mm
13:09 Birdie vs 11mm
13:47 Birdie vs Soft shackle
14:37 Conclusion
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Can you do this with a Petzl I’d ?
Did you test them from the drop tower? I can't find the video. Thanks!
I bet the Grigri is designed to slip around 4-8kN. I mean it's probably so if something were to happen and those forces do end up happening, a few feet of rope being taken with a constant 4kN force, could potentially save someone's life because is helps lessen the impulse of the fall essentially making it safer.
Yeah, that’s my thinking too. But let’s see how it handles the quick and heavy tensions when the drop is set up. Super excited for that. I think HowNotToHighline needs to invest in a higher frame per second slowmo cam to catch those extra juice gear gut spills.
@@zanestathakis30 this test is basically already done, has to hold a fall factor 2 fall hands free in uiaa testing.
The GriGri was designed to allow for a slow slip in the event of a fall. It's one of the main reasons we use them in rescue. I love the GriGri because it's saved my hide a few times. However, I wouldn't touch the Birdie with a barge pole. I've found them far too unpredictable and touchy to use in a rescue situation.
@@ryanhanslo3029 They do work great when doing solo work, Guiding the rope is import and, and makes the Birdie much more controllable. I can see how in a rescue situation that might be more difficult. Why not the Rescucender?
Are you using a static rope on rescue missions?
The gri gri slipping is still super good enough. That slip on a big fall will help give a soft catch and it will only see max force for a couple of seconds
Plus not destroying the rope.
@@lazycat5108 well if you experience 10kn, I don't think they sheath of your rope breaking is your main concern
@@loganvilas1032 True! But you see, it'd be easier for my belayer to pick up my broken body if it is still attached to the rope :D
@@lazycat5108 i laughed at this and probably shouldn't have, thanks!
True, I can see the slippage being useful on trad pro for helping reduce the force on those too
I once witnessed a 140ft factor 2 fall on a Gri-Gri: Lurking Fear on El Cap, party was block leading, leader was self belaying on a gri-gri (70' out from the anchor below, at the end of his rope, just as the 2nd was arriving at the anchor), leader was aggressively back cleaning, he wasn't using daisies and fumbled out of his aiders, pulled the only piece between him and the anchor (#1 Camalot). The fall was on p5, we were on the ground about to start, pre-dawn so I saw the headlamp beam falling, I happened to be looking up.
They managed to self rescue back to the ground, and walk out under their own power. Rope burns, sprains and strains, and minor kidney bleeding. They happened to live nearby, so I got the details when he came by to pick up his gear that I had cleaned from his highpoint (2 cams, 2 aiders). He said the Gri-Gri was slightly bent (I dunno exactly) and was jammed/cammed hard in the locking position onto the rope, which reportedly took some effort to un-cam and remove. He was tied into the end of the rope, not sure if/how his knot might've been pulled up against the device.
Wow, that has to be the worst whipper I've ever heard of. Can't imagine walking away from that.
Whoa! That is heavy.
Seeing the GriGri slip before breaking makes me feel pretty safe. Slipping would probably mean that I'm not entirely snapped in half during a fall.
It makes me wonder what other devices like the Madrock Safeguard would do in the same situation.
Mad hype for the drop tests. I'd love to see all of this again in a dynamic situation. Plus you can get some HUGE forces on static ropes, so we can probably see some fun stuff with that tower.
They both slipped before breaking.
On the larger rope, the birdie gripped better.
The Grigio blew up at 9.7 KN. The birdie started to desheath the rope at 9.9.
If somehow you were in a 10kn fall (other than maybe breaking your back) the Grigri drops you to the ground, the birdie desheaths your rope.
Neither a “good” thing, but at the end of the fall. A desheathed rope is better than a free fall.
You will never put that much force on the belay device with a dynamic rope. So it really doesn’t prove much.
Should have put some stopper knots and tested the gri gri since most people use them when rope soloing.
If you use a mirror setup to remote locate your cameras you can definitely shield the system to better isolate the carnage.
They use mirrors for rocket sled and ballistic tests - good enough for missiles, super good enough for grigri's.
Hey Ryan, avid Beal Birdie user here. To answer your question you don't lower off the birdie like you do a grigri, using only the handle, you instead use the handle for rough control and hold on to the brake strand and meter slack out like an ATC.
The Birdie has been my favorite assisted braking device for a long time, the all metal construction and ease of giving slack while lead belaying makes me recommend it over the gri gri for new buyers, glad to see it holds more than a gri gri too, more to brag about! :3
The thing is with a atc u have ur two hand on the rope not one so iam not sure with one one only you would need to let the rope slip tru ur hand risking burning yourself while the grigri you really control the speed whith your left hand on the handle ! The rigth hand is just there for safety
Avid grigri user here !
I'd say you handle the Gri just like you described you would the Birdie while lowering. Petzl even made a biner especially for that purpose to increase friction and care for the skin on your hand
@@seeeeeb9300 yeah its the same, just a different cam position.
Yeah, it’s a little more bias toward the brake rope side vs the handle side.
You CAN control with just the handle, you just need to move less to make speed changes.
Love the size of the Birdie as well.
Great video for all rope soloists! Thanks @hownottohighline !!! Next time you want to break a grigri, I would LOVE to see what happens when you put a stopper knot on the rope. (that jams right before it enters the grigri) My guess is that the grigri might stand beyond 10 kN. But who knows!!! The drop tests will be MEGA interesting!!!! Sick!!
I'm super excited for the drop tower. Also I'm super happy for you getting the support to help you achieve these goals.
Birdie vs soft shackle hurt my soul
Birdie doing what I thought the GriGri would do. I'm actually quite reassured by the slippage with the GriGri and I'm curious to see if you get similar results with shock-loads from the drop tower.
1 year later, we have yet to see any revisited videos on the drop tower
Neat test. I just bought my first grigri after thirty plus years with 8's, sticht plates, tubers, and ATC's. They all blow hip belaying out of the water (which is the first belay method I was taught and used). Would be interested to see how many kns a hip belay can hold for comparison, but I'm absolutely not volunteering myself for the rope burns!
dude I'm impressed by the Birdie!! 36kn?? that's amazing! thanks for this video. glad you still use the 50kn dyno! ;)
Bro Im using this type of gear to climb my sailbost mast. I was worried about trusting my life to a Petzl grigri but you have given me much more trust in the gear. Thank You !!!
Super excited for the hands free grigri testing on the drop tower!
1:17 yt is all about hav n fun an sharing it with the masses, that's why I love this channel plus I learn some dope stuff In the process
Thanks for doing the GriGri, that was super interesting enough!
It would be fantastic to see how an Edelrid Jul 2 or Mega Jul would hold up in these similar tests. A little "apples to oranges" but it would be interesting to see where the failure point it, as there are a lot of folks using those as well. Thank you for everything you experiment with. A wealth of information is generated by you guys.
Jim titt did some testing on this that you can find on mountain project, slips at around 0.8kn and will continue to slip from there.
that was great! looking forward for the drop tower, most of the things will happen on that way and not on slow tension, so you have a loooot of things to re test, so great!
interesting to try micro-traction and alike - how low they really start to damage ropes. Cheers!
This would be super interesting! Micro Traxxion and Petzl Shunt break tests please!
Microtrax vs ct roll in lock. Can skip the Spock and duck lol
Would definitely like to see the Micro, since it is the gold standard for rope solo and simul-climb right now.
The Micro is only rated at 2.5kn, I heard TC say it's good for 3kn, but don't think he tested it.
@@GregSidberry whats wrong with Spoc? I've been using it for a while, super happy with it
@@pavlodeshko it's not a well rated device based on testing. It's recommended to avoid the Spock for TRS. Duck is similarly poorly rated, but better design. Microtrax and CT roll n lock have both tested well with micro being more damaging ( fine teeth) vs CT handling higher loads. Everything has a failure mode/max force: spoc and duck just hit them easier
Super stoked for the drop test with the grigri
Gonna be sweet to see how the Grigri work on the drop tower. Slippage is a good thing for a dynamic belay and soft catch. Keep the vids coming. Thanks.
People seem to like the slippage but I think that’s a really bad thing!! 😆 I don’t want momentum going against me!
Hi Ryan. As a adventure guide we sometimes have to leave slings behind when abseiling. mostly in canyoning. I have seen that in Australia canyoners use old car seat belts used as slings. are they good enough. great work as ever. PS hi from Scotland
I would imagine that as long as the seat belt is in decent condition that it would be good, as the ratings I see from a quick search range from 13-25KN. It'd be cool to see though!
@@mattsoukup1789 I guess then the attachment method, either knot or stitching is what would make them safe or not.
Im an auto mechanic and i have used seat belts to pull motors many, many times. Most of the time with the trans attached (1000 lbs+) Sometimes there isn't enough space to use chains or maybe there is no good mounting location for them and its easier to wrap a seat belt around. One day the company safety inspector saw me and expressed her concern for how strong a seat belt could be. After a quick chat and a little research, she was suddenly completely ok with what i was doing. NHTSA mandates that all vehicle seat belts need to hold a minimum of 3200 lbs. EU regulations are even higher at 4200 lbs. But like most safety equipment and minimum ratings, they actually break at a much higher weight. Most belts tested by NHTSA break around 5000 lbs. PS - i normally tie a water knot, sometimes a double 8 knot. they dont slip and are very static.
@@nicholasmiller7886 seat belts are like dynamic ropes, they stretch a lot.
We use single-use-slings made from seat belt in construnction. Thin, strong, flat. You can built it in a wooden wall and lift it with a crane or you screw it down with a 2by4 or somecind of wood.
They are certificated as a lifting sling and rated about 800kg which should be arround 1400 lbs and they cost arround 1 euro
happy to see the Birdie making an appearance. Got one for my wife as she was learning to climb because GriGri is much more pricey, and we have been extremely happy with it. Full metal construction makes it feel very sturdy, and judging by the test scores it is! A little weird seeing it cut rope sheaths though....add it to the drop tower tests please!
Remember, the tension when the rope lost it's sheath was nearly 10kn… the grigri broke at 9.7
I get the hype with the drop tower now. Can't wait to see the results of Grigri falls and other devices commonly used for rope solo!
Great video as always👍👍
Thanks for testing the birdie! Prefer the mad rock lifeguard or Beal birdie to grigri. Look forward to your lifeguard test
hell yeah ryan, been waiting for this one!!
I'm excited by the drop tower !
Super excited for the drop tower
Love watching things break
Hey Ryan, new dyno system looks sick! You should look into doing force over time plots instead of just the peak force. It might be interesting!
You could get a cheap thermal camera (about $160) to easily find hot parts on the floor. Just be quick about it before it cools down, and make sure you don't have to many hot things around. Alternatively, if you can darken the workshop, you could put a little (invisible) UV fluorescent ink on the part being tested, and a UV flashlight to find it.
Great video
Can't wait to see a drop test with the grigri and the birdie or a similar device like the Madrock lifeguard. I'd also be really interested to see how well it works in a solo top roping type layout with an average body weight and at what drop heights it engages or fails to engage
Thanks for that this is super nice to know. I often put quite heavy loads on gri gris at work. If it's really heavy I prefer to put it on a rig but still I've had situations where I've hung 200-250kg with 10.5mm static rope on a gri gri. Knew it was pushing it though
Wow! That birdie is tough!
Drop tower will be game changing
That's so cool! So interesting to see the gear I use and what they can handle. I think the pin on a DMM Pivot would be interesting to test. If you haven't done so already of course.
For sure, I really like that device but I’m afraid of that pivot pin!!
Lets goo!! Been waiting on this one
Of course we want to see this on the drop tower! Give us an update on the construction now that the concrete has been poured.
And now I have the conclusion music in my head as an ear worm for the rest of the day. Thanks for that.
DUDE! 🙈 you are the best !
This is great, thanks so much for this test. Also, thanks for not cussing in your videos. I work in a public school and I will probably use some of your videos in my classroom, but that does require that there be no cussing.
cool test :) I love it
Drop tower, only been waiting to see that since day 1 😉
Please can you test the Eldrid Ohm. Great video. Thanks for sharing
Dude Please keep making video never stop making video
Maybe enclose the break case with a bulletproof glass type containment system that you can still record through but would catch all the pieces?🤔 Although, hunting and pecking around the shop is probably good cardio 😉great video as always! Love the channel and thanks for all you do for our ease of minds.
Soft shackle in both sides. Totally realistic *maniacal laugh*
LOL
Good observation on Birdie about quick switch from open close position. I'm currently testing it and I can't get lowering down consistent. Either too slow or when pulled the levar a little the speed increases rapidly
Nice one, what about using a batting cage type setup around where you stand, or even around the equipment to keep stuff from flying too far, but big enough to allow easy access and a large enough for camera equip to be moved around. Nice work!
Can that computer running Windows 7 even handle the data from your new equipment?! LOL I love your videos, Thank you so much
Trango cinch would be a good future test!
That broke my heart watching the gri gri break. However, impressed with the weight it broke at versus advertised weight max.
When getting high forces on a grigri, the belayer gets pulled up to the first set and bolt which stops the grigri. And could fully load it. Maybe checking that setup?
Diameter of ropes is measured when they are under load from the climbers weight.
Would to see a test with the Silent Partner and Soloist... Its gonna be sad to see one of those broken cause is rare to find but i think its a really good test.... Cheers mate...
Always amazing contents...
If I'm not mistaken, the blue soft shackle is 1/2" Samson amsteel rated to 30k lbs. Even with severe damage I'm not surprised that it broke the Birdie .💪💪
Didn't know about the birdie - great episode as always! - Have you considered putting some acrylic (or other kind of glass) on top of your slacksnap, to make the searching a little bit easier? :)
He did say that he will not due to camera gear and so on. (Towards the end of the video, 15ish?) But maybe he could place a vertical wall between the slacksnap and the rest of the room?
Trango cinch is another one worth testing, Interesting about grigri slipping. I'm going to trust my old ATC Guide for rapping!
The tension force of a rope is felt at both ends, and for an inertial body (like a falling person), presence of force implies change in velocity.
7.3 kN will bring a 200lb person falling at terminal velocity to a complete stop in 0.98 seconds, long before you lose a significant amount of rope to slippage at the pace seen here. Super good enough.
so you guys gonna test the Madrock lifegaurd too? or do you need someone to send one in? Cause I have an old one I could probably donate.
Do itttt
For when you really wanna break something, soft shackle.
That's should be a T-shirt
I'd grab one
A couple broken belay devices and the soft shackle standing there with the words, "Bad Soft Shackle, Bad!"
I'm curious to know how the birdie compares to the eddy for a pulley brake in a tensioning system.
When you build the drop tower, will you be pulling cams and stuff from above or redirecting the through a pulley to lift up out of the ground?
I just watched this video and thought that you did an excellent presentation. I was hoping that I could get you to test the Mammut Smart Alpine, however a quick internet search on one site said that the Smart Alpine production has been discontinued in 2020. Should Mammut reintroduce a similar model I urge you to test it. Perhaps you might find one that you would be willing to destroy in the aftermarket.
Thanks for your videos. I have a question. I've been rapping with a gri gri for a couple years. Recently say Jimmy Chin doing his movie making while suspended by a Petzl ID. Looks much more massive than a gri gri. Considering getting one just because it seems like its even more bomber than a gri gri. I don't mind spending the money but do you see the gri gri as being sufficient for suspending self while getting photos or would stepping up to the ID seem reasonable to you. Thanks so much.
I wonder if they intentionally made it slip vs grab till breaking.
It seems a lot safer for some slippage to occur before catching, rather than 0 slippage if it means it breaks earlier.
My Gri gri is 20 years old and modified for self belay. I figure by now I’m pretty sure it’s not going to fail in my lifetime! 😆
You could make a batting cage net around that whole area. Or those plastic freezer flaps, with the camera inside.
I just recently took a high angle rescue course and they are made to stop to a certain dynamic force and then start slipping at a slightly higher dynamic force and than finally stop again at a higher dynamic force witch I thought was pretty cool
I think it would be interesting to test if you could whip on some stuff that is absolutely not smart to whip on, like the loops on the back of climbing shoes etc
I'd like to see how this compare to a good old fashioned bug. You could use a pulley and weight in place of the belayer's hand for constant tension pantograph style on the lock off.
As far as I am aware all belay devices will slip, because they all are brake assisting and they will not brake the rope completely, and the GriGri is one of the devices with the highest slip value also compared with other half automats, so it is actually very static in comparison with tubes or even HMS, which is why for instance in alpine multipitch climbing with belay from a fix point you should never use a GriGri. Here is a comparison of different half automatic belay devices in German with the slip values (Durchlaufwert), and other interesting stuff www.alpenverein.de/chameleon/public/919174d8-26c1-2717-9f9a-6f7479be220f/Panorama-2010-4-Geraete_18413.pdf
Have you tested the madrock safeguard? If not, I’ll mail you one for testing. We use them as rappel devices in saddle hunting so I’d be curious to know what I’m trusting my life with. I also use a grigri.. haven’t had any slip issues. *I don’t believe these devices are supposed to be used for what I just described*
hey there!! thanks for awesome contents!! I was wondering if you could try kind of side loading the grigri. I am starting rope solo and use a grigri as a self belaying device.. I put stop knots every now and again to have a backup but I noticed that it sometimes turns a bit sideways, even though I keep it to my chest (by tying with a thin string the carabiner over my shoulders) to prevent it going around too much.. >So i am a bit concerned that a side pull on a fall might just pop the grigri open!! If you manage to that would be awesome!!! Thanks guys, weep it up!!
I would love to see this on a rig, I’d and also with a friction biner
We need a "I forgot to turn on peak force" shirt 😆
I still love your setup! I'd love to use your setup for winch test. To see some real figures not overrated ones. Lol. I would love to see you guys test a construction rope grab.
I'd recommend testing a brake bar rack, but it may outperform what your system can handle.
Hey ryan would love if you slack snap tested the petzl RIGs or I'Ds see when they slip and snap!
I have both. Will use both
Handle on Beal is more utilitarian than petzl. But hey fun stuff
Hi, could you please do the same test with a Smart? Personally I'm not interested in the breaking part, but when it starts to slip.
Interested to see some of the same exact tests you’ve done in the past but on the drop tower and see the differences, if any..
I bet it would be significantly different. But what the hell do I know😂
Would it be possible to do the same with the Mammut Smart? Would be interesting how this concept of belyaing device compares...
Would be good to see how the gri gri compares to an i’d or a rig
Hownot2 disassemble a grigri
Birdie tops i thank you.
Could you test the cheap AliExpress descender va grigri vs mamut...
Super excited to see what happens when loaded from a fall off the drop tower!!! I'm curious if the birdie will chop rope like the grigri 1 on a extreme catch
hello at 7:31 on your back wall, there were square carabiner. can i had type or brand?
You can fit stuff way bigger than 11mm in a gri gri I’ve even run 13mm lines through mine, not ideal but it can happen.
Where did you get your rope measuring device from??
forgget about plexi glass screen. what about wiremesh or the one used for chicken coops it can be out of focus and nearly desapear from camera, or mosquito screen. as long as its loose on the bottom it will absorb the impact of the flying pieces
A Trango Vergo would be interesting for comparison. The seemingly larger hinge but only a single plate connection.
The Vergo is the single best of the mechanical belay devices with the Birdie a distant second and the Grigri a very distant fourth.
Ok, so we see grigri is such a well-designed device!
If we put all the pieces together:
When the grigri is on the belayer the rope slips around 7 KN; the climber would have created a force of around 14 KN and the anchor would have a force of around 21KN.
If you think about it, the harness is designed to support at least 15KN while many anchors and bolts are prepared to support around 22KN, however there are so many variables here and those forces would be nearly impossible to achieve in a realistic rock climbing situation.
Therefore, just when the whole system is about to collapse grigri would release some rope to give you a second chance. How amazing is that?
Instead of trying the rope to the load cell when breaking belay devices it would be more useful to just tie an overhand or a slip knot in the rope and pull the know through the device. The rope soloers tie slip knots in the rope as a fail safe assuming that the knot will jam in the device is the device fails to auto-lock in a fall.
Interesting results, will keep my gri gri, ID and Stop.
Could you test aged ropes and see what happens after their best before dates?
Nothing happens, seach for "Walter Siebert" an enjoy ;)
They have you can look into the database and find the results and raw videos for all tests at the website.
@@NoName-OG1 Excellent, will look into that