It would be nice to see comparison for how it feels to catch the fall with different lengths of slack in the system. Overall I’m super excited to test Neox
Imagine if the spinning wheel worked the same as it does in the revo. If it spins faster than some calibrated speed everything just locks. It would easily be the safest device on the market. right now it's just a grigri that's easier to feed slack with.
I'm going to try and get my hands on a Revo so that I can do a side-by-side comparison video. I haven't used the Revo since it launched and I remember not being impressed with their wheel and its performance. It gave less braking assistance than what I'm getting from the NEOX.
So with a 9,2mm rope the NEOX is not ideal, but with the 10mm rope it seems to be a really good choice! :-) But how about the in betweens? I am about to buy a rope and just realized now (by seeing your video on the NEOX) that I have to think twice before buying the rope. I need to factor ind the type of belaying device (ATC, Grigri(+), NEOX, etc.)
@@SeekOutTheAdventure Thank you for your swift response! :-) That is awesome. I am also surpriced cause it didn't seem to 'catch the rope' so well on the 9.2mm (minute 5:20). Good to hear you don't find it to be an issue afterall.
Both are great options. My wife actually loves the GRIGRI + more than the NEOX right now. She prefers using the specialized technique over the traditional technique for paying out slack. Overall, when using traditional belay techniques, the NEOX is way smoother than the GRIGRI +, especially with fatter ropes. Even though I’m enjoying the NEOX the most for lead belaying, I still love the GRIGRI + when I’m top-rope belaying. The top rope mode on that thing is awesome.
Yes its your hand on the break strand, if your hand is holding the break strand then you won't have any problems. Petzl themselves said that the device doesn't have a brain, you do (usually). If you never take your hand off the break strand you'll have nothing to worry about.
It seems to me like the only reason you might use the Neox instead of an ATC is because it's easier to hold after a fall. A revo almost seems like a better option for lead belaying.
Most everyone chooses to use a cam-assisted blocking device, over a manual braking device because of how nice it is to “hold” a climber. That’s what makes us justify the extra weight, bulk, and cost. I’ve used the Revo just a couple times years ago and wasn’t impressed for a few reasons. I’d love to get my hands on one soon to do a NEOX vs Revo comparison video.
best comparison so far. I quite dislike grigri because feeding rope is so uncomfortable. I use grigri for top rope belaying because it's easier and grigri+ for lead rope solo. I guess the Neox would suit better for me but not worth replacing the ones that I use currently (light weight devices like mammut smart). This device is bad for people with the bad habit of not holding the break side at all time. Neox is definitely not for beginners.
I like my GriGri+. I’m not convinced about the neox. I see people who don’t keep their hands on the break end. And to see how easy it is to give out slack. I see more accidents.
Are you asking how it does with belaying a second? I’ve only simulated that once in a gym with an early sample a little over a year ago. I’m excited to test out the final product in that scenario. Stay tuned for the real life scenarios video. I’ll make sure to show that in action just for you.
Interested in a comparison with the Pinch, if possible. Really great video btw, thanks.
Let’s see if I can get my hand on one. I’d love to do that comparison.
It would be nice to see comparison for how it feels to catch the fall with different lengths of slack in the system. Overall I’m super excited to test Neox
I can trying capturing that in the next video
Imagine if the spinning wheel worked the same as it does in the revo. If it spins faster than some calibrated speed everything just locks. It would easily be the safest device on the market. right now it's just a grigri that's easier to feed slack with.
I'm going to try and get my hands on a Revo so that I can do a side-by-side comparison video. I haven't used the Revo since it launched and I remember not being impressed with their wheel and its performance. It gave less braking assistance than what I'm getting from the NEOX.
So with a 9,2mm rope the NEOX is not ideal, but with the 10mm rope it seems to be a really good choice! :-) But how about the in betweens? I am about to buy a rope and just realized now (by seeing your video on the NEOX) that I have to think twice before buying the rope. I need to factor ind the type of belaying device (ATC, Grigri(+), NEOX, etc.)
I use a 9.2mm all the time with my NEOX and it works great. But a 9.5 and 9.8 would be just as great.
@@SeekOutTheAdventure Thank you for your swift response! :-) That is awesome. I am also surpriced cause it didn't seem to 'catch the rope' so well on the 9.2mm (minute 5:20). Good to hear you don't find it to be an issue afterall.
How would you compare the gri gri + in the lead mode to the neox ?
Both are great options. My wife actually loves the GRIGRI + more than the NEOX right now. She prefers using the specialized technique over the traditional technique for paying out slack. Overall, when using traditional belay techniques, the NEOX is way smoother than the GRIGRI +, especially with fatter ropes. Even though I’m enjoying the NEOX the most for lead belaying, I still love the GRIGRI + when I’m top-rope belaying. The top rope mode on that thing is awesome.
The advantage of the neox is that it doesnt block even when you feed quickly, like when someone is falling. Am I missing anything? ^^
Yes its your hand on the break strand, if your hand is holding the break strand then you won't have any problems. Petzl themselves said that the device doesn't have a brain, you do (usually). If you never take your hand off the break strand you'll have nothing to worry about.
Keep your hand on the brake strand and it will block. I haven’t had any issues catching falls with it in the last year of testing it.
It seems to me like the only reason you might use the Neox instead of an ATC is because it's easier to hold after a fall. A revo almost seems like a better option for lead belaying.
Most everyone chooses to use a cam-assisted blocking device, over a manual braking device because of how nice it is to “hold” a climber. That’s what makes us justify the extra weight, bulk, and cost. I’ve used the Revo just a couple times years ago and wasn’t impressed for a few reasons. I’d love to get my hands on one soon to do a NEOX vs Revo comparison video.
best comparison so far. I quite dislike grigri because feeding rope is so uncomfortable. I use grigri for top rope belaying because it's easier and grigri+ for lead rope solo. I guess the Neox would suit better for me but not worth replacing the ones that I use currently (light weight devices like mammut smart). This device is bad for people with the bad habit of not holding the break side at all time. Neox is definitely not for beginners.
Definitely not needed to instantly replace current devices, but worthy of consideration when your current devices finally fail their PPE inspection.
It goes both ways though - you could argue it's great for beginners as it won't teach them the bad habits in the first place.
I like my GriGri+. I’m not convinced about the neox. I see people who don’t keep their hands on the break end. And to see how easy it is to give out slack. I see more accidents.
I agree that people need to change their ways and keep their hand on the brake strand.
Nice one, Ben. I can imagine getting a Neox for my son who belays infrequently enough that he never quite feels comfortable with the gri-gri.
@@stevemiller1937 Get him a Wild Country Revo.
belaying the second?
Are you asking how it does with belaying a second? I’ve only simulated that once in a gym with an early sample a little over a year ago. I’m excited to test out the final product in that scenario. Stay tuned for the real life scenarios video. I’ll make sure to show that in action just for you.