No edelrid products? In the US you never see the click up. You occasionally see the Pilot. Every gym and crag I am at always has at least one MegaJul or GigaJul. I am a big fan of the versatility and durability of these products. I wish they paid me to shill for them but they never will because I keep doing it for free.
The megajul has a nice corner of the market as one of 2 (?) ABDs for double ropes. That’s a big pro to it. Otherwise I find it a little more finicky than the click-up and grigri
Been using the Edelrid Gigajuhl for the past 3 years. Indoor, outdoor, multipitch, guide mode, rappelling, and works well on wet icy ropes as well. Highly recommended
Another +1 for the GigaJul, it's so versatile, and not too difficult to use (the only gotcha is making sure the correct mode is selected). Use it for belaying from bottom or top, or rapelling in manual mode. It's the only belay device I carry now. Grigri will always have a place in my bag, but it's weight makes it undesirable for long multi-pitches. I've had so many rope twisting issues with the click-up, not to mention it's really limited in it's function. Used mine twice and now it just sits in my closet gathering dust.
Agreed. I tried out both a regular grigri (3rd ed) and grigri+ on my chunky 10mm sport rope for a trip. The + really didn't work that well, really slow lowering and constantly locked when I tried to slowly and carefully move it further open. Might be ok with a 9.5 or thinner. Regular grigri worked a lot better but I still prefer my pilot.
Looking at the German fail case numbers of the Clickup I wouldn’t recommend it at all. Way too risky if the brake rope is above the belay device compared to literally any other assisted device. The Edelrid Jul2 should definitely be a part of this video!
Do you have a link to something that shows this? I've just downloaded and translated the 2012, 2017 and 2018 DAV reports and the click-up shows consistently low rates of incidents on all reports. Curious to read a more recent report if there has been a change and happy to translate if you have the German links. They do mention in 2012 that they saw the lowest amount of user errors of any device in 2012, though do attribute 17% of these to 'unnecessary length of time of the brake hand above the device when paying out rope'. I saw mention of this on a UKC forum or something some time ago, but again nobody was able to post public links to substantiate the claim. Not doubting at all, just would like to see the actual data
I agree with that. Instead the fish from austrialpin should have been mentioned. As handling is intuitive for beginners, even for kids and handling is much smoother than with a mammut smart, plus it comes with a lower-down handle. ruclips.net/video/dO6DTtSnyUE/видео.html
@@joepesci420 Adherence to the brake hand principle is, however, absolutely compulsory. Because without a brake hand on the rope the device will only lock in the event of a violent impulse. Once blocked, the device remains in this position and has to be actively brought back into "operating mode".The following dangers must be taken into account: At the brake hand position up, the blocking mechanism does not engage. It is problematic that the blocking function depends on the shape and thickness of the karabiner. With strongly curved D-carabiners the device does not block. If you use a karabiner that is too thin, the rope will get jammed in the event of a hard fall, so that it is no longer possible to be released. The safety carabiner then has to be forced up again. According to the manufacturer HMS carabiners with a cross-section of more than 12 mm. mm may be used for belaying. The manufacturer recommends the use model "Mini".
I have to disagree with you on the GriGri+. The vast majority of climbers in the market for a Grigri should just get the Grigri 2. The smaller finger catch and the anti-panic feature on the + get annoying very quickly, even for newer belayers. As for lowering on a Grigri that doesn't have a anti-panic feature safely... It's simple. Instead of wrapping your hand around the handle and/or using your thumb to grip the handle, instead just use half a pad of either your index and middle finger (2 half pads) or add in half a pad of your ring finger (3 half pads) for extra leverage. That way if you panic on a lower, your fingers will slip off the handle if you cam the device fully open with too much force. Not sure why this isn't SOP for Petzl, but it should be.
I have used the Black Diamond Pilot extensively. I very much like the feel, the simplicity, and the smooth handling. HOWEVER, it should only be considered an assistance with most ropes. The rope runs through when you let go of the break hand side. Albeit slowly in most cases, but it does run through. You also need to have a carabiner that matches the device (e.g. Black Diamond carabiners). The Edelrid Megajul is more fidly when it comes to handling (mostly when lowering) but will lock down the rope reliably and completely.
I use the mammut smart, but with how thick our gym ropes are, I find it catches a lot and makes belaying a lot of work. I like the safety of it though as I am a new to rope climbing (and left handed, so gri gri is out!). Any recommendations for an assisted device that works well on thicker gym ropes?
I use Jul2 and it works great with tick ropes. In my opinion, the best replacement for GriGri. It is rated for up to 11mm ropes, smooth for lead and toprope, indestructible and dirt cheap. There is also "Mega jul Sport" that I didn't try which also goes up to 11mm and is capable of using double ropes
The last version of the Grigri (the third, released in 2019) is everything you need to climb sport routes, you just need some training to get into it. But if you are confident with the Grigri when you belay a lead climber, and you want to try something else, the Mammut Smart is your next toy. Smooth and fast when you give slack, funny and solid when you are lowering the climber. The functioning is almost the same as the Grigri, you'll understeand how to use in 10 minutes. It requires a better rope menagement, it's not a newbie device imo (like the Pilot and every other assisted tuber). If you are a new climber, grab a Grigri (not plus).
Is there a reason you prefer the smart over the pilot? I've used grigri, jul, clickup and pilot and the last came out on top for me. Actually, the clickup has a nice smooth lower, but can lock while feeding slack quickly which isn't ideal. The lower on the pilot is almost as nice, and feeding slack on it is lovely, for a whole range of ropes. Grigri's not bad, I don't love it for heavier climbers though and performance drops off at the top and bottom range of rope diameter.
Why would you use the normal verison over the plus version? I'm totally new intoo climbing and dont know what to buy. My near selection is: Grigri, Grigri+, Gigajoule and Mammut smart. What would you buy for longterm use and easienes and felibility?
@@engineeringjoe the fact is you need just some practice to be confident to use the grigri. I'm talking about some weeks, not month or years. The grigri is a long lasting device, it could be used over and over for years. If you aren't a pro climber or an agonist, how much you will climb, 1 or 2 times per week if you're lucky? It could last for 10 years, maybe more. So, the plus version is very resistant but it is very annoyng to use it, for something that you can learn in 2\3 weeks, you will spend 100 or more euros\dollars for what? If you are just a sport climber, get you standard grigri and enjoy it. When you will be very confident with it (very confident to belay a lead climber), and this could take a longer time, months, you can think to try\buy something else. If you have the right training or even just not to be so stupid to do lock the cam (except for the Petzl-method), you won't have any problem. I really love the mammut smart, but it requires a good rope menagement to the belayer and it consumate its carabiner over time (the grigri doesn't consume it). Another thing is when you will be a good belayer and you'll have two or more devices, it's always a good idea to have a grigri with you imo.
actually the Clickup and the Grigri do not have the same operating principle. Grigri has a brake cam - Clickup not. Birdie and Grigri for example work with the same principle. The Clickup works with the Autotube- principle like the Smart 2.0 or the ATC-Pilot, only with an additional 'click'. As long as you are not used to them, any of these devices can be a bit 'fiddly'. Each device has its advantages and disadvantages. Getting used to it properly is is the key to success. For years I was a big fan of the Grigri in sport climbing. Since i got to know the Birdie, I even prefer it.
ropes and grigri... well, last week i was on a almost new 9.2mm rope, friend used a grigri for belaying... was tired, so i had a unexpected fall just before clipping... well, a good amount of rope slipped (rope on the brake side was a bit relaxed and in a loop to hand out some rope)... i personally don't use the grigri often, but with well used 10mm ropes i start to struggle with the grigri blocking all the time when i try to give some rope... yeah, people tend to trust the grigri too much... it's a good device and for toprope it's perfect, but it has some flaws... i personally use the munter hitch for belaying... while i don't recommend it to others (you should still know it) it's how i learned to belay, how i always did it and how i can catch falls the smoothest... -> that's a disadvantage on all autoblocking devices: you can't catch a fall smoothly when you stand near the wall -> you have to move... but yeah, i still recommend the grigri to new climbers, but would let them belay the first few routes with a normal tuber and the munter hitch with a second backup belayer...
The premise of this video is flawed. The best belay device is all about you, how you climb and what you're used to. I don't thing the "top 3 x" format helps anyone find what they need.
Don't get the grigri +. Too difficult to lower, especially if there is already a lot of friction in the system. I always recommend learning on a non assist device. Its better to learn on a regular tube device like the ATC or Reverso and then move onto the gri gri or other assist device. It makes you a more attentive and safer belayer. Starting with a gri gri is not the safest approach in my opinion.
Absolutely agree! The principles of using a tube style belay device are all transferable to every assisted belay device - definitely worth learning the basics and then applying on whatever gear you have available!
You're missing a big disadvantage of these devices, you can't rappel on them. In some countries, for safety reasons, we always rappel. For that, I prefer the megajul instead
Not sure why "fiddly" always seems to be mentioned about certain devices as a drawback. Belaying is fiddly, and every single device has some learning, even switching from a Reverso to an ATC there is a slight change or even between ropes. Some have legitimate flaws, and the GriGri is price point and heft as well as only being right handed (the left handed belay is subpar), while the + tacks on further both of those negatives with a needless knob and a panic lever which in short order you do not want in exchange for a steep wear plate. The Click Up also has a somewhat higher price but more the assisted brake action is harder to override than almost any other device when engaged, which means a slight short can be a hard stop to climbing/clipping. Even my preferred device, the Smart 2.0, has a more limited range of ropes to feed smooth while still locking out without assistance from the brake hand. Fortunately, I always use ropes in that range, while Juls and Pilots have different ranges. Everything is fiddly.
I love the Smart! Not my personal choice for assistance belay device, but I carry one as a spare because it’s the easiest ABD (in my opinion) to hand someone that’s only used an ATC with very little explanation.
Though I have tried and used several other types of belay devices, the grigri is hands down the best device when belaying someone who is working a route. What hugely bothers me - with a lot of Petzl products - is the very obvious design descicions to make the product anything but durable. Petzl obviously sells this under the 'being light' argument, but who honestly cares about the weight of a grigri? Comparing the old grigri (1), the newer grigri2 and the current grigri, Petzl has gone through great lenghts ensuring the side plate and cam wear out as quickly as possible. Yes the grigri+ has an added (steel?) plate, but for experienced users I feel the additional features on the + are of no added value.
Am I the only one disrupted by the fact that several of those close shots were upside down? Do not know why, but it irritates me, the thing is hanging to the top, not down as it should be.
I'm happy that the Click-up gets mentioned, I've been using it for almost a year and very happy about it! Much safer than a ATC while still good for lead climbing unlike the Gri-gri.
I don't like the click up at all. When you give out rope fast, it's most likely to click and jam. Your climber has to wait while clipping and wait for you to let go of the upper rope in order to unclick the device. It all takes ages. I don't know anybody who uses it anymore. And I would even go that far to say I would refuse to have anybody use it on me.
Once you get used to it its amazing. When you aren't used to it, its one of the worst devices out there. This applies to every assited belay device ever, but especially with the clickup
@@benschuster9792 why bother to learn the fine art of not clicking up? And how is it actually done? Can you gently jam the click up function when fiercely giving out slack?
I have it, I see four disadvantages with the Revo. The biggest one is that it has a lot of small moving parts, so I’m concerned with the reliability (especially if dirt gets into the mechanism). The other disadvantages are that you can’t easily lock it on purpose (which is annoying when your climber is projecting), it’s heavy and it’s expensive. Apart from those disadvantages it really offers the best, smoothest and safest belaying action.
@@iain_nakada Do you mean the Revo? If you somehow manage to stay below 4m/s even with no hand on the device then it won’t lock but will also not injure the climber.
People have to understand one day that the grigri and these tube devices are just not the same kind of devices. This is dangerous and for retailers like epictv dubious and just bad purchase advice!
@@iclimb-servicefurkletterha5347 Why would it not be a belay device? "LOV3 is a *fall arrest* and descender device which operates on normal vertical ropes or tensioned and diagonal ropes." "The ultimate in self arrest / rope solo devices and still *works as a belay device too*"
@@SonnyKnutson you are right AND wrong: It has the norm for climbing belay devices, but you can't use it for lead or toprope climbing. It is only for belaying a second from the top. Therefor it shouldn't be listed in a best of "Assisted Braking Devices for Rock Climbing Video".
@@SonnyKnutson OK, you are right. I double check the instructions and it is for lead and toprope as well. My first impression for giving slack: Your braking hand can easily hold the LOV3 down. In a panic situation your hand will move to your body and will hold the device in an open position. Seems to be a risky device for lead belays. It seems to have some flaws for lowering heavy loads as well...
@@iclimb-servicefurkletterha5347 Fair points. I thought it was a lot more like a GriGri but you questioning me made me look into it a bit more and I think you are correct in saying that it is probably better used for it's intended use. And the GriGri will fill the belay role ^^
No edelrid products? In the US you never see the click up. You occasionally see the Pilot. Every gym and crag I am at always has at least one MegaJul or GigaJul. I am a big fan of the versatility and durability of these products. I wish they paid me to shill for them but they never will because I keep doing it for free.
The megajul has a nice corner of the market as one of 2 (?) ABDs for double ropes. That’s a big pro to it. Otherwise I find it a little more finicky than the click-up and grigri
Gigajul is probably the device of choice for cragging for a lot of ice climbers!
I live in the southeast US and I love my click up +
Hands down the megajul is lighter, more versatile, and lower cost then the grigri.
Thank you for your feedback Arnold!
Been using the Edelrid Gigajuhl for the past 3 years. Indoor, outdoor, multipitch, guide mode, rappelling, and works well on wet icy ropes as well. Highly recommended
Thank you for your feedback Tom!
i love my megal jul
Can't believe the giga jule wasn't mentioned in either of these videos.
I know! It's the belay device I use and it's so versatile.
Another +1 for the GigaJul, it's so versatile, and not too difficult to use (the only gotcha is making sure the correct mode is selected). Use it for belaying from bottom or top, or rapelling in manual mode. It's the only belay device I carry now.
Grigri will always have a place in my bag, but it's weight makes it undesirable for long multi-pitches.
I've had so many rope twisting issues with the click-up, not to mention it's really limited in it's function. Used mine twice and now it just sits in my closet gathering dust.
I prefer the normal GriGri over the + because the panic handle flips over way to soon. It takes forever to lower someone because of that.
I totally agree with that, and that’s the reason why I much prefer also the normal grigri
Agreed. I tried out both a regular grigri (3rd ed) and grigri+ on my chunky 10mm sport rope for a trip. The + really didn't work that well, really slow lowering and constantly locked when I tried to slowly and carefully move it further open. Might be ok with a 9.5 or thinner. Regular grigri worked a lot better but I still prefer my pilot.
No mention of the Beal Birdie, just as good as Grigri or possibly better?
No edlerind giga jul? It's so versatile!
Looking at the German fail case numbers of the Clickup I wouldn’t recommend it at all. Way too risky if the brake rope is above the belay device compared to literally any other assisted device.
The Edelrid Jul2 should definitely be a part of this video!
Do you have a link to something that shows this? I've just downloaded and translated the 2012, 2017 and 2018 DAV reports and the click-up shows consistently low rates of incidents on all reports. Curious to read a more recent report if there has been a change and happy to translate if you have the German links. They do mention in 2012 that they saw the lowest amount of user errors of any device in 2012, though do attribute 17% of these to 'unnecessary length of time of the brake hand above the device when paying out rope'.
I saw mention of this on a UKC forum or something some time ago, but again nobody was able to post public links to substantiate the claim.
Not doubting at all, just would like to see the actual data
I agree with that. Instead the fish from austrialpin should have been mentioned. As handling is intuitive for beginners, even for kids and handling is much smoother than with a mammut smart, plus it comes with a lower-down handle. ruclips.net/video/dO6DTtSnyUE/видео.html
@@joepesci420 Adherence to the brake hand principle is, however, absolutely compulsory. Because without a brake hand on the rope the device will only lock in the event of a violent impulse. Once blocked, the device remains in this position and has to be actively brought back into "operating mode".The following dangers must be taken into account: At
the brake hand position up, the blocking mechanism does not engage. It is problematic that the blocking function depends on the shape and thickness of the karabiner. With strongly curved D-carabiners the device does not block.
If you use a karabiner that is too thin, the rope will get jammed in the event of a hard fall, so that it is no longer possible to be released. The safety carabiner then has to be forced up again.
According to the manufacturer HMS carabiners with a cross-section of more than 12 mm.
mm may be used for belaying. The manufacturer recommends the use model "Mini".
I have to disagree with you on the GriGri+. The vast majority of climbers in the market for a Grigri should just get the Grigri 2. The smaller finger catch and the anti-panic feature on the + get annoying very quickly, even for newer belayers.
As for lowering on a Grigri that doesn't have a anti-panic feature safely... It's simple. Instead of wrapping your hand around the handle and/or using your thumb to grip the handle, instead just use half a pad of either your index and middle finger (2 half pads) or add in half a pad of your ring finger (3 half pads) for extra leverage. That way if you panic on a lower, your fingers will slip off the handle if you cam the device fully open with too much force. Not sure why this isn't SOP for Petzl, but it should be.
I have used the Black Diamond Pilot extensively. I very much like the feel, the simplicity, and the smooth handling. HOWEVER, it should only be considered an assistance with most ropes. The rope runs through when you let go of the break hand side. Albeit slowly in most cases, but it does run through. You also need to have a carabiner that matches the device (e.g. Black Diamond carabiners).
The Edelrid Megajul is more fidly when it comes to handling (mostly when lowering) but will lock down the rope reliably and completely.
I have a grigri and a Clickup. I find the second smother when lead belaying 😊
I prefer normal grigri than + version (I tried both)
Been using singing rock rama over 1 year now , like it a lot.
I use the mammut smart, but with how thick our gym ropes are, I find it catches a lot and makes belaying a lot of work. I like the safety of it though as I am a new to rope climbing (and left handed, so gri gri is out!).
Any recommendations for an assisted device that works well on thicker gym ropes?
I use Jul2 and it works great with tick ropes. In my opinion, the best replacement for GriGri. It is rated for up to 11mm ropes, smooth for lead and toprope, indestructible and dirt cheap. There is also "Mega jul Sport" that I didn't try which also goes up to 11mm and is capable of using double ropes
The jul2 works well, but I can also recommend the pilot and the salewa ergo for gym use.
The last version of the Grigri (the third, released in 2019) is everything you need to climb sport routes, you just need some training to get into it.
But if you are confident with the Grigri when you belay a lead climber, and you want to try something else, the Mammut Smart is your next toy. Smooth and fast when you give slack, funny and solid when you are lowering the climber.
The functioning is almost the same as the Grigri, you'll understeand how to use in 10 minutes.
It requires a better rope menagement, it's not a newbie device imo (like the Pilot and every other assisted tuber).
If you are a new climber, grab a Grigri (not plus).
Is there a reason you prefer the smart over the pilot? I've used grigri, jul, clickup and pilot and the last came out on top for me. Actually, the clickup has a nice smooth lower, but can lock while feeding slack quickly which isn't ideal. The lower on the pilot is almost as nice, and feeding slack on it is lovely, for a whole range of ropes.
Grigri's not bad, I don't love it for heavier climbers though and performance drops off at the top and bottom range of rope diameter.
@@iain_nakada I haven't tried it yet (I don't think I will buy it).
The Grigri is an evergreen if you know how to use it
Why would you use the normal verison over the plus version? I'm totally new intoo climbing and dont know what to buy. My near selection is: Grigri, Grigri+, Gigajoule and Mammut smart. What would you buy for longterm use and easienes and felibility?
@@engineeringjoe the fact is you need just some practice to be confident to use the grigri. I'm talking about some weeks, not month or years. The grigri is a long lasting device, it could be used over and over for years. If you aren't a pro climber or an agonist, how much you will climb, 1 or 2 times per week if you're lucky? It could last for 10 years, maybe more. So, the plus version is very resistant but it is very annoyng to use it, for something that you can learn in 2\3 weeks, you will spend 100 or more euros\dollars for what?
If you are just a sport climber, get you standard grigri and enjoy it. When you will be very confident with it (very confident to belay a lead climber), and this could take a longer time, months, you can think to try\buy something else.
If you have the right training or even just not to be so stupid to do lock the cam (except for the Petzl-method), you won't have any problem.
I really love the mammut smart, but it requires a good rope menagement to the belayer and it consumate its carabiner over time (the grigri doesn't consume it). Another thing is when you will be a good belayer and you'll have two or more devices, it's always a good idea to have a grigri with you imo.
actually the Clickup and the Grigri do not have the same operating principle. Grigri has a brake cam - Clickup not. Birdie and Grigri for example work with the same principle. The Clickup works with the Autotube- principle like the Smart 2.0 or the ATC-Pilot, only with an additional 'click'.
As long as you are not used to them, any of these devices can be a bit 'fiddly'. Each device has its advantages and disadvantages. Getting used to it properly is is the key to success.
For years I was a big fan of the Grigri in sport climbing. Since i got to know the Birdie, I even prefer it.
You were walking on the bike lane, weren't you? 😏
ropes and grigri... well, last week i was on a almost new 9.2mm rope, friend used a grigri for belaying... was tired, so i had a unexpected fall just before clipping... well, a good amount of rope slipped (rope on the brake side was a bit relaxed and in a loop to hand out some rope)... i personally don't use the grigri often, but with well used 10mm ropes i start to struggle with the grigri blocking all the time when i try to give some rope...
yeah, people tend to trust the grigri too much... it's a good device and for toprope it's perfect, but it has some flaws...
i personally use the munter hitch for belaying... while i don't recommend it to others (you should still know it) it's how i learned to belay, how i always did it and how i can catch falls the smoothest... -> that's a disadvantage on all autoblocking devices: you can't catch a fall smoothly when you stand near the wall -> you have to move...
but yeah, i still recommend the grigri to new climbers, but would let them belay the first few routes with a normal tuber and the munter hitch with a second backup belayer...
The premise of this video is flawed. The best belay device is all about you, how you climb and what you're used to. I don't thing the "top 3 x" format helps anyone find what they need.
Don't get the grigri +. Too difficult to lower, especially if there is already a lot of friction in the system. I always recommend learning on a non assist device. Its better to learn on a regular tube device like the ATC or Reverso and then move onto the gri gri or other assist device. It makes you a more attentive and safer belayer. Starting with a gri gri is not the safest approach in my opinion.
Absolutely agree! The principles of using a tube style belay device are all transferable to every assisted belay device - definitely worth learning the basics and then applying on whatever gear you have available!
Great comparative, guys! ongrats!
You're missing a big disadvantage of these devices, you can't rappel on them. In some countries, for safety reasons, we always rappel. For that, I prefer the megajul instead
ATC pilot all the way
The sample pool looks a bit too small.
Not sure why "fiddly" always seems to be mentioned about certain devices as a drawback. Belaying is fiddly, and every single device has some learning, even switching from a Reverso to an ATC there is a slight change or even between ropes. Some have legitimate flaws, and the GriGri is price point and heft as well as only being right handed (the left handed belay is subpar), while the + tacks on further both of those negatives with a needless knob and a panic lever which in short order you do not want in exchange for a steep wear plate. The Click Up also has a somewhat higher price but more the assisted brake action is harder to override than almost any other device when engaged, which means a slight short can be a hard stop to climbing/clipping.
Even my preferred device, the Smart 2.0, has a more limited range of ropes to feed smooth while still locking out without assistance from the brake hand. Fortunately, I always use ropes in that range, while Juls and Pilots have different ranges.
Everything is fiddly.
I love the Smart! Not my personal choice for assistance belay device, but I carry one as a spare because it’s the easiest ABD (in my opinion) to hand someone that’s only used an ATC with very little explanation.
No Gigajul?
Though I have tried and used several other types of belay devices, the grigri is hands down the best device when belaying someone who is working a route. What hugely bothers me - with a lot of Petzl products - is the very obvious design descicions to make the product anything but durable. Petzl obviously sells this under the 'being light' argument, but who honestly cares about the weight of a grigri?
Comparing the old grigri (1), the newer grigri2 and the current grigri, Petzl has gone through great lenghts ensuring the side plate and cam wear out as quickly as possible. Yes the grigri+ has an added (steel?) plate, but for experienced users I feel the additional features on the + are of no added value.
I agree with you. It's the reason I'm going to buy the Edelrid Pinch.
Am I the only one disrupted by the fact that several of those close shots were upside down? Do not know why, but it irritates me, the thing is hanging to the top, not down as it should be.
I’ve asked this before I believe…do you have a US based store?
Its online. They ship pretty much everywhere.
I'm happy that the Click-up gets mentioned, I've been using it for almost a year and very happy about it! Much safer than a ATC while still good for lead climbing unlike the Gri-gri.
I don't like the click up at all. When you give out rope fast, it's most likely to click and jam. Your climber has to wait while clipping and wait for you to let go of the upper rope in order to unclick the device. It all takes ages. I don't know anybody who uses it anymore. And I would even go that far to say I would refuse to have anybody use it on me.
Once you get used to it its amazing. When you aren't used to it, its one of the worst devices out there. This applies to every assited belay device ever, but especially with the clickup
@@benschuster9792 why bother to learn the fine art of not clicking up? And how is it actually done? Can you gently jam the click up function when fiercely giving out slack?
@@SteveMcMief you just need to feed with the brake hand rather than pulling with the other hand
Didn't the guy from hard is easy almost fall to the ground because of the clickup?
Edit: found the video. Belayer tried to take in slack during the fall which prevented the clickup from braking -> ground fall
It was a grigri, not ckickup
True, but he also once said something about a clickup
if u can afford it, the Revo is amazing. Hands free, smooth as it comes .
I have it, I see four disadvantages with the Revo. The biggest one is that it has a lot of small moving parts, so I’m concerned with the reliability (especially if dirt gets into the mechanism). The other disadvantages are that you can’t easily lock it on purpose (which is annoying when your climber is projecting), it’s heavy and it’s expensive.
Apart from those disadvantages it really offers the best, smoothest and safest belaying action.
Would have loved to see the Taz 3 Lov in the mix too.
I wouldn't advise it for top ropes. Particularly thick gym ones. The extra friction means it sometimes doesn't lock...
@@iain_nakada Do you mean the Revo? If you somehow manage to stay below 4m/s even with no hand on the device then it won’t lock but will also not injure the climber.
People have to understand one day that the grigri and these tube devices are just not the same kind of devices. This is dangerous and for retailers like epictv dubious and just bad purchase advice!
Would have loved to see the Taz 3 Lov in the mix too.
The TAZ isn´t a belay device: It is for rappelling and positioning for rope access.
@@iclimb-servicefurkletterha5347 Why would it not be a belay device?
"LOV3 is a *fall arrest* and descender device which operates on normal vertical ropes or tensioned and diagonal ropes."
"The ultimate in self arrest / rope solo devices and still *works as a belay device too*"
@@SonnyKnutson you are right AND wrong: It has the norm for climbing belay devices, but you can't use it for lead or toprope climbing. It is only for belaying a second from the top. Therefor it shouldn't be listed in a best of "Assisted Braking Devices for Rock Climbing Video".
@@SonnyKnutson OK, you are right. I double check the instructions and it is for lead and toprope as well. My first impression for giving slack: Your braking hand can easily hold the LOV3 down. In a panic situation your hand will move to your body and will hold the device in an open position. Seems to be a risky device for lead belays. It seems to have some flaws for lowering heavy loads as well...
@@iclimb-servicefurkletterha5347 Fair points. I thought it was a lot more like a GriGri but you questioning me made me look into it a bit more and I think you are correct in saying that it is probably better used for it's intended use. And the GriGri will fill the belay role ^^
I guess Petzl paid for this episode as its basically a GriGri ad