Having done over 100 oil changes, mostly Toyota's, I thought I'd seen it all. Leave it to Toyota's last service tech to over-torque the oil filter plastic housing. After the 3/8" ratchet didn't provide enough torque, I resorted to a 1/2" ratchet handle just to get it to loose. Not realizing the plastic housing cracked under that extreme torque, I re-installed it and ended up spraying a few quarts of fresh synthetic oil over my garage floor. I purchased the aluminum alternative and this video did a great job explaining everything I needed to know including placement of the large o-ring and lubricating the top and bottom of the filter. Time and time again, I'm reminded that most techs can't be trusted to torque things properly. I've had the drive-through oil and lube businesses strip oil drain plug threading on two different cars (one a Cadillac and Toyota pickup) and now this. Cadillac wanted $1800 to replace the oil pan which I re-tapped myself for $35 for a tap set and new bolt. Sometimes it can't be helped that you have to rely on a tech to do things, but I do my best to keep mechanics away from my cars and find good DIY videos like this one to do it right. Thanks for a great video!
I'm glad you did the swap Koz. Sorry to hear about the fresh synthetic spraying everywhere. I've been there dozens of times with removing over torqued filters. Glad the video helped.
Yes, I'm just past the Toyota complimentary services" and paid over $200 for the last one. I will be doing my own from now on as I have for over 40 years on all my vehicles. I'm worried that the last service the "brand new" Toyota Tech ( the ones who usually do oil changes ) may have over tightened the housing as I am over 100 miles from the Toyota Dealership. The plastic housings more often than not, will crack ( hard to notice until your vehicle has leaked all over the place hopefully in the driveway or garage and not after10-20 miles of driving "down the highway. Where did you get the housing you mentioned and what part number / model was it?
Thanks Bub ( call my 31 year old son ) this 63 year old Memaw is changing the oil tomorrow on my new Taco. Been changing oil since my first VW Super Beetle. You've got the best mist comprehensive video out. Thank you!
Barbara I've also been changing my own oil since my first car (a 1961 VW bug). In fact I don't believe anyone else has changed the oil on any vehicle while I've owned it.
The oil drain plug should have a crush washer that should be replaced each oil change. Also start the car when everything is closed up and check for leaks . Oil pressure on guage or dash light should take less than a few seconds to indicate it's ok.
I use a kit purchased from Amazon that includes a metal drain valve (like the brass one in your video) with longish hose, and a threaded funnel that screws into the oil fill neck, using the threads that secure the oil fill cap. Really cut back on spilled oil, both used and new. I use the same filter cartirdege removal tool as your video and always torque the cartridge body and the drain cap, as well as the pan plug, with a new crush washer (OEM) each time. My preference is OEM filter cartridge, and Penzoil Platinum. 3.5L in a 2015 RX 350 F Sport.
The plastic drain plug comes with all replacement oil filters, as well as the O rings. I attach a hose to the bottom of the plastic drain plug to the oil collecting pan. It does drain the oil from the canister so when the canister is removed there is very little mess. HOWEVER, I HATE THIS TYPE OF OIL CHANGE CANISTER. GIVE ME BACK THE STANDARD SCREW-IN FILTER SYSTEM ANYTIME.
After changing the oil twice on our recently acquired 2009 RAV4, I experienced a problem trying to remove the drain plug from the oil filter cap. The entire cap would come off when trying to remove the drain plug. Seems I over-torqued the drain plug after installing the new filter in the filter cap. I now understand that 18 ft.lb. is recommended for the filter cap and only 9 ft.lb. for the drain plug on the filter cap.
I have the same problem every time I do the oil change. I always tighten to specs with torque wrenches. It should happen with the drain plug having less torque but it does every time. I just have to hold the whole canister while removing drain plug.
@@sd906238 It's time to do ours again before the end of this month. Well see what happens. If I still have a problem I'll just tighten the oil filter cap and then try removing the drainplug.
I like using at Fumoto valve on the drain plug but if your drain plug is vertical on the bottom of the pan then maybe you wouldn’t be able to completely drain the pan.
i have the brass drain with hose not sure it is better than push in plastic ones that come with Toyota filters i cut hose short, so it drains easier and does not get tangled trying to turn brass fitting on i like to put silicone grease on end of housing threads and o rings seems to make it go on and come off easier
When I look up that metal housing part number, it lists many toyota vehicles it fits, but no tacomas are listed. Why would that be unless it should NOT be used on the tacoma.
I think some people look at it differently. When I look up part numbers online, I'm sure the applications that show up are the ones that this part (and part number) comes with OEM.
@@diyautotech9113 I actually did but the metal housing, after doing the oil change I comapred the two. The plastic housing's threads are twice as long as the metal housing, even the 0ring is in a different location. not a good idea to use the metal housing.
Thanks, you answered some questions, why Toyota abandoned the canister filter is beyond me. But this doesn't look too terribly bad. At least if you have the correct tools.
He mentioned that but the one that came with his Mobil Oil Filter was a "screw in" one ( he actually showed how it screws in) and he mentioned how he didn't like it at all. They don't "go bad" so when you use a push in one, keep it for the next oil change and just in case the oil filter you buy comes with the screw in type. The brass one he showed is interesting and I'm curious to know how well they "hold up" over time ( if they leak after a while or fail completely. The draining of the oil isn't absolutely necessary but makes the whole process a little less messy as removing the oil filter housing without draining it first requires that you are very careful to not "tip" it at all or at the very last you will spill a little oil and at worst you will spill about 1/3 of a liter / quart of hot oil. You can never reach every nook or cranny to clean the spilled oil up. Oh and just remember after draining the oil from the housing to use a fresh "O Ring" on that drain hole plug and DON'T over tighten it ( I think the torque is only about 11-12 foot lbs nut don't quote me on that.
when removing the drain plug and/or before re-installing the drain plug @ 15:05 make sure that the crush-washer is present, or better yet install a new one each time the oil is changed
Aluminum oil filter cap $18 on amazon, if you go to Toyota to buy a replacement plastic one because your old one cracked $54 and that's after military discount... if you ask if they carry an aluminum cap for the Tacoma they look at you crazy, however if you ask for an oil filter cap for the newer Avalon with the 3.5L then they will bring you the aluminum one you seek. But don't buy from dealer because the markup is insane.
@@hitran1913 From my experience the plastic gets so brittle that it damages every single time it is serviced. The metal might get slightly corroded and stuck, but at least you arent breaking it every time you wrench to get it unstuck. If it wasnt a viable design they wouldn't make it OEM for certainlixury models. The plastic is just a cost saver.
@@hitran1913 Why would it when it's on the Avalon and when there's an O-ring between them. Torque the cap to 18 foot pounds and the drain plug on the cap to 9 ft.lbs. The drain plug on the engine to 30 ft.lbs.
@ianjsutt You don't think it's possible because whoever is changing it is over-torquing the oil filter cap assembly... Anyway I'm not sure what it is that I said that you are reacting to and I never claim to be absolutely 100% right about anything. I could in fact be hallucinating...😉😁
@ianjsutt I agree... Very rare for a dealer to have a low price on anything. Actually, Walmart has the K&N filter for even less. I was going to switch to the aluminum filter cap but decided to stay with the plastic one and just be careful not to over-torque it (I'll use a torque wrench). I've read about some folks who switched to aluminium and then switched back to plastic..
Toyota dealer over-tightened my filter housing on my 2017 Tacoma. Just do this service myself. If you torque to specs... you will not have any problems with the plastic housing? Any advantages to the Aluminum housing??
Sorry for such a late reply Stephen, you make a great point about the importance proper torquing. I see the advantage of using the aluminum housing because after the hundreds of heat cycles plastic parts experience, even with proper torquing, they are more prone to cracking. I guess I just don't want to chance that happening when I can prevent it with a $40-60 upgrade. Thank you for the question.
Where did you find that this Metal Oil Filter housing was a Replacement part for the OEM Plastic part ????? I have been searching for over a week and find no TOYOTA part made that is a replacement part for the Gen 3 Tacoma.....
Thank you for the encouragement to make more videos. There are a bunch of great videos out there already on Tacoma repairs/upgrades so I really would prefer to make videos that I feel the Tacoma community doesn't have already.
@@diyautotech9113 I understand the logic in your thinking, but at the same time, i just feel like binging all the tacoma content I can. Oil change went super smooth by the way, thanks in part to your video. 👍
I hate to ask stupid questions, I just installed this filter with the stamp on the filter facing upwards, you installed it facing down 12:43, both sides looked identical to me, does it matter which way the filter goes in?
I just followed the reverse of removal technique. I agree with you, the filter looks identical to me on both sides and I wouldn't hesitate to install it either way. Thanks for the question Fady!
It might be metal to metal but you can over tighten it. In fact, that is what causes the most problems with this system. The torque specs should be followed. Oil pan drain plug torque: 40 N•m/30 ft lbs Oil filter cap torque: 25 (±5) N•m/18 (±3.5) ft lbs Oil filter drain plug torque: 13 N•m/10 ft lbs I believe the oil filter drain attachment that comes with the $2.97 Supertech oil filter also screws in. Actually used a hook to remove the o-rings is not recommended.
What is the diameter of the oil filter drain hole in canister housing? I want to purchase a valve and replace that plug, then I can just open it when I change the oil.
I bought an Amsoil oil filter for my 2016 Tacoma and it had the same threaded filter drain... Hated it. Too easy to cross thread, as you stated. Luckily I had the regular factory plug and used that
MrHeepspo why mess with it? Just pull the housing off and pour the oil out. I didn’t see the need to worry about draining such a small amount of oil out.
Ok geniuses, there are reasons that someone may want to remove the filter cap ahead of their next oil change. What if you just changed the oil a couple weeks ago and a small leak has developed at the filter cap? The oil is basically brand new...do you want to dump out $30 worth of oil just to fix a $2 O-ring? Also, there are many people out there who replace the synthetic oil at 10K intervals, but replace the filter every 5K. Anyway OP, there is no issue removing the filter cap without draining the oil. You will loose only what is in the cap.....half a quart or so. In fact, I believe they swapped the cap and filter before draining the oil even in this video.
Rapid one yah, wait until it's damaged to replace it, that's really smart. You just drained all the oil out of your truck and have no way to fill it up and drive it due to the damaged filter housing, really smart, dumbass.
I never mess with that filter drain plastic thing! Just pull the filter housing off and turn it over into a drain bucket. One less o-ring to mess with also!
I bought a 2022 Tacoma TRD Sport 4 months ago. If i had seen this video….it would have been relegated to my second or third choice. It is 2022…..why is Toyota making it more difficult and costly to perform an oil change?
Oh man Balli, don't say that :D. These are the best trucks out there. I love my 2017 Tacoma more everyday. You made a great choice. This oil filter thing is "small potatoes."
Thanks for bring this to my attention. Rookie RUclips mistake on my part. I fixed it. Please go the video description and click "Show More" to reveal the details of the parts used. Thanks again for the feedback! -Greg
Not sure about the "A" in your part number, but this is the filter I purchased: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FJICOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Toyota should have just used a regular style oil filter the way it use to be they come up with the extra junk as a drain plug in a housing can a paper cartridge all just to make tons of extra money off the consumers they already make tons of money for the prices of the tacomas absolutely outragesally greedy...
I didn't get a chance to watch the whole "video" but I have a few things to mention. Some people have bought some ( not all ) "metal" ( aluminum ) oil filter housings off of Amazon and had "issues" with the part. A very common problem with this rather silly Toyota oil filter system is that do it yourselfers and even "quick oil change" places over tighten the oil filter housing. I believe it only requires 17-18 lb feet of torque which is not very much at all. same with that drain plug on the bottom and I believe that one is even less torque????? I wouldn't suggest using an oil that says it is good for one year or 20,000 miles???? or is it kms? It is better to use the mileage or time that is suggested in the owners manual which is usually 16,000 kms and I would suggest it's cheap insurance to replace it sooner than that 8000 to 10000 kms or 5000 -6000 miles or 6 months max. Mobil Oil filters are probably good but there are some "fake" Toyota Oil Filters available I believe "online" that are notorious for failing. They even have TOYOTA stamped on one of the fins but are made of cheaper, flimsy "paper". Use Toyota oil filters or a reputable brand there's no point in saving a couple bucks on an oil filter that may fail and cause thousands of dollars in repairs. It baffles me that Toyota has gone to plastic for such crucial engine components to "save a few bucks?????" It's even more confusing as Toyota makes a metal oil filter housing to replace the plastic ones ( probably over $30 at Toyota and under $20 "online" at Amazon etc. but there are counterfeits out there ( Toyota only sells their Genuine Toyota Parts through Dealerships because of the Franchise agreement that Toyota has with all their Dealerships) I also believe there are 2 different sizes of oil filter housings and i have no idea which models or years have which size. that Oil Filter housing removal tool looks pretty nice, the plastic ones ones "slip" and or round off especially if the housing was previously overtightened. If you replace the plastic one with a metal one keep the plastic one around just in case it's needed again.
I asked Toyota if this housing will fit my 2019 TRD off-road and they said no. I'm wondering if they are full of shit like when you want to order the pro grill but will only let you if you have the Vin for the pro.
Don't just take my word for it, but I believe that the TRD off-road has the same motor as the 2WD 4.0 V6. Look it up to confirm. Another thing you can do to confirm, is wait till you do your oil change and see for your self if your filter canister look similar to the one I show in the video. I hope this helps.
Good job on the video. As I have been changing my oil on my Tacoma’s for over 20 years now and currently own a ‘17 with the 3.5 liter engine I’m compelled to comment. I do not see any advantage to installing an aluminum filter housing-none. Also, OEM filters work as good as any aftermarket available and the filter you installed is much different than the OEM part. I would not use it because of that. Lastly, your trucks warranty will most likely be voided if you go over the 10,000 mile recommended change interval.
Everything you said is true. There is nothing wrong with the OEM plastic oil filter cap. The problem is the mechanics who obviously can't even read the torque specs printed on the cap. Tighten to 25 N•m which is equal to 18 ft.lbs. Don't put it on with an impact tool and don't hand tighten it like some muscle bound jock whose job it is to just pick things up an put them down. 18 ft.lbs. will not cause any damage.
No need to use a pic to remove the old o ring. Just use your thumb and forefinger to push it giving slack on the other side that you can grab with your fingers
It's my opinion that the aluminum oil filter assembly is actually not a good idea. You only have to torque the plastic one to 18 lb.ft. Also, if not threaded carefully, the aluminum ones have the potential of stripping and damaging the threads, where the plastic ones never will. As long as you do your own oil changes and torque everything yourself to the proper specs, this doesn't pose any problems. That's just my 2 cents.
Thanks for comment Matt, I always appreciate a different perspective. I totally agree with your comment on torquing your own parts; it's one of the reasons I still do my own oil changes.
Why don't we just admit that if mechanics would stop using an impact wrench to put on the oil filter assembly cap and DIYers would also follow the torque specifications, there would be no problem with the OEM plastic part
Hi Steve, I read all your previous post and I learned and agree with your emphasis on proper torque because my time repairing jets in the USAF. I think what most of us working on vehicles are trying to overcompensate for variables we can't control (e.g. previous techs over torquing, plastic material failure, etc.).
I just bought a brand new 2019 Toyota Tacoma SR 4X4 with a 2.7 liter, 4-cylinder engine. It being a 4-cylinder engine, it appears to have a normal spin on canister. My engine is referred to as a: 2TR-FE. Is this correct? A reply would be much appreciated.
I don't trust any advertised claim for oil, spark plugs, etc. I plan to change oil at 10,000 miles, half of the claimed 20,000 miles. I also encourage checking oil level and topping off every couple of months. I agree that oil should be changed earlier than 20,000, that is why I went with the matching filter. We'll just have to see how well it holds up.
I'd like to know why some engineer laid awake at night dreaming how to complicate an already simple task on many vehicles such as changing out an oil filter. What a bunch of Bull S@*^.
First if you buy the brass fitting to drain the oil out of housing, the metal on metal can cross thread. That’s why they give you a plastic one with the filter. And if you cross thread the aluminum aftermarket oil housing it’s gonna cost a whole lot more time and money to replace the female side of it. If you ask me after your last free oil change from the dealer and you decide to change your own oil. Pick up an oem plastic house as insurance before you start. Ask me why I know. Lol. Good luck 👍
Some may use their vehicle to travel across the states. Theyre just saying that so theyre not accountable. But their oil is fully capable if you want to use your vehicle to travel across the states. To me, the interval you should follow are the ones that arent engine oil related. Especially the 4WD system.
I did 16000 to 18000 mile oil changes on my 16 Maxima. Using this oil and Archoil 9100. I did do oil analysis with Blackstone and my numbers were fantastic
Having done over 100 oil changes, mostly Toyota's, I thought I'd seen it all. Leave it to Toyota's last service tech to over-torque the oil filter plastic housing. After the 3/8" ratchet didn't provide enough torque, I resorted to a 1/2" ratchet handle just to get it to loose. Not realizing the plastic housing cracked under that extreme torque, I re-installed it and ended up spraying a few quarts of fresh synthetic oil over my garage floor. I purchased the aluminum alternative and this video did a great job explaining everything I needed to know including placement of the large o-ring and lubricating the top and bottom of the filter. Time and time again, I'm reminded that most techs can't be trusted to torque things properly. I've had the drive-through oil and lube businesses strip oil drain plug threading on two different cars (one a Cadillac and Toyota pickup) and now this. Cadillac wanted $1800 to replace the oil pan which I re-tapped myself for $35 for a tap set and new bolt. Sometimes it can't be helped that you have to rely on a tech to do things, but I do my best to keep mechanics away from my cars and find good DIY videos like this one to do it right. Thanks for a great video!
I'm glad you did the swap Koz. Sorry to hear about the fresh synthetic spraying everywhere. I've been there dozens of times with removing over torqued filters. Glad the video helped.
If it's a concrete floor, Brakekleen will evaporate the oil out.
Sad but true !
Yes, I'm just past the Toyota complimentary services" and paid over $200 for the last one. I will be doing my own from now on as I have for over 40 years on all my vehicles. I'm worried that the last service the "brand new" Toyota Tech ( the ones who usually do oil changes ) may have over tightened the housing as I am over 100 miles from the Toyota Dealership. The plastic housings more often than not, will crack ( hard to notice until your vehicle has leaked all over the place hopefully in the driveway or garage and not after10-20 miles of driving "down the highway. Where did you get the housing you mentioned and what part number / model was it?
Thanks Bub ( call my 31 year old son ) this 63 year old Memaw is changing the oil tomorrow on my new Taco. Been changing oil since my first VW Super Beetle. You've got the best mist comprehensive video out. Thank you!
Barbara
I've also been changing my own oil since my first car (a 1961 VW bug). In fact I don't believe anyone else has changed the oil on any vehicle while I've owned it.
The oil drain plug should have a crush washer that should be replaced each oil change. Also start the car when everything is closed up and check for leaks . Oil pressure on guage or dash light should take less than a few seconds to indicate it's ok.
I use a kit purchased from Amazon that includes a metal drain valve (like the brass one in your video) with longish hose, and a threaded funnel that screws into the oil fill neck, using the threads that secure the oil fill cap. Really cut back on spilled oil, both used and new. I use the same filter cartirdege removal tool as your video and always torque the cartridge body and the drain cap, as well as the pan plug, with a new crush washer (OEM) each time. My preference is OEM filter cartridge, and Penzoil Platinum. 3.5L in a 2015 RX 350 F Sport.
Funny you mentioned the RX 350. I just did this same swap on my wife’s RX350. Thanks for the tips man! -Greg
Check out the Baxter TS-301-BK adapter allows you to install a spin on oil filter.
The plastic drain plug comes with all replacement oil filters, as well as the O rings. I attach a hose to the bottom of the plastic drain plug to the oil collecting pan. It does drain the oil from the canister so when the canister is removed there is very little mess. HOWEVER, I HATE THIS TYPE OF OIL CHANGE CANISTER. GIVE ME BACK THE STANDARD SCREW-IN FILTER SYSTEM ANYTIME.
Thank you,you speak where it makes sense.thanks again for the lesson.
After changing the oil twice on our recently acquired 2009 RAV4, I experienced a problem trying to remove the drain plug from the oil filter cap. The entire cap would come off when trying to remove the drain plug. Seems I over-torqued the drain plug after installing the new filter in the filter cap. I now understand that 18 ft.lb. is recommended for the filter cap and only 9 ft.lb. for the drain plug on the filter cap.
I have the same problem every time I do the oil change. I always tighten to specs with torque wrenches. It should happen with the drain plug having less torque but it does every time. I just have to hold the whole canister while removing drain plug.
@@sd906238
It's time to do ours again before the end of this month. Well see what happens. If I still have a problem I'll just tighten the oil filter cap and then try removing the drainplug.
try some silicone grease it keeps things from getting stuck much better than some oil
I like using at Fumoto valve on the drain plug but if your drain plug is vertical on the bottom of the pan then maybe you wouldn’t be able to completely drain the pan.
i have the brass drain with hose not sure it is better than push in plastic ones that come with Toyota filters i cut hose short, so it drains easier and does not get tangled trying to turn brass fitting on i like to put silicone grease on end of housing threads and o rings seems to make it go on and come off easier
When I look up that metal housing part number, it lists many toyota vehicles it fits, but no tacomas are listed. Why would that be unless it should NOT be used on the tacoma.
I think some people look at it differently. When I look up part numbers online, I'm sure the applications that show up are the ones that this part (and part number) comes with OEM.
@@diyautotech9113 I actually did but the metal housing, after doing the oil change I comapred the two. The plastic housing's threads are twice as long as the metal housing, even the 0ring is in a different location. not a good idea to use the metal housing.
Wow that’s great! Hopefully I can find them parts for my Tundra. Great video. I wish they had a metal one compatible with Filtmag magnets.
Thanks, you answered some questions, why Toyota abandoned the canister filter is beyond me. But this doesn't look too terribly bad. At least if you have the correct tools.
FourQed
The plastic drain nipple is a push-in device (not a screw-in) and works wonderfully to drain from housing.. No mess when removing the filter housing!
He mentioned that but the one that came with his Mobil Oil Filter was a "screw in" one ( he actually showed how it screws in) and he mentioned how he didn't like it at all. They don't "go bad" so when you use a push in one, keep it for the next oil change and just in case the oil filter you buy comes with the screw in type. The brass one he showed is interesting and I'm curious to know how well they "hold up" over time ( if they leak after a while or fail completely. The draining of the oil isn't absolutely necessary but makes the whole process a little less messy as removing the oil filter housing without draining it first requires that you are very careful to not "tip" it at all or at the very last you will spill a little oil and at worst you will spill about 1/3 of a liter / quart of hot oil. You can never reach every nook or cranny to clean the spilled oil up. Oh and just remember after draining the oil from the housing to use a fresh "O Ring" on that drain hole plug and DON'T over tighten it ( I think the torque is only about 11-12 foot lbs nut don't quote me on that.
when removing the drain plug and/or before re-installing the drain plug @ 15:05 make sure that the crush-washer is present, or better yet install a new one each time the oil is changed
Aluminum oil filter cap $18 on amazon, if you go to Toyota to buy a replacement plastic one because your old one cracked $54 and that's after military discount... if you ask if they carry an aluminum cap for the Tacoma they look at you crazy, however if you ask for an oil filter cap for the newer Avalon with the 3.5L then they will bring you the aluminum one you seek. But don't buy from dealer because the markup is insane.
@@hitran1913 From my experience the plastic gets so brittle that it damages every single time it is serviced. The metal might get slightly corroded and stuck, but at least you arent breaking it every time you wrench to get it unstuck. If it wasnt a viable design they wouldn't make it OEM for certainlixury models. The plastic is just a cost saver.
@ianjsutt
Actually my local dealer sells the oil filter element for less than Walmart does!
@@hitran1913
Why would it when it's on the Avalon and when there's an O-ring between them. Torque the cap to 18 foot pounds and the drain plug on the cap to 9 ft.lbs. The drain plug on the engine to 30 ft.lbs.
@ianjsutt
You don't think it's possible because whoever is changing it is over-torquing the oil filter cap assembly...
Anyway I'm not sure what it is that I said that you are reacting to and I never claim to be absolutely 100% right about anything. I could in fact be hallucinating...😉😁
@ianjsutt I agree... Very rare for a dealer to have a low price on anything. Actually, Walmart has the K&N filter for even less.
I was going to switch to the aluminum filter cap but decided to stay with the plastic one and just be careful not to over-torque it (I'll use a torque wrench). I've read about some folks who switched to aluminium and then switched back to plastic..
Toyota dealer over-tightened my filter housing on my 2017 Tacoma. Just do this service myself. If you torque to specs... you will not have any problems with the plastic housing? Any advantages to the Aluminum housing??
Sorry for such a late reply Stephen, you make a great point about the importance proper torquing. I see the advantage of using the aluminum housing because after the hundreds of heat cycles plastic parts experience, even with proper torquing, they are more prone to cracking. I guess I just don't want to chance that happening when I can prevent it with a $40-60 upgrade. Thank you for the question.
Thanks for taking time to do this video
What is the part number for the Tacoma v63.5 metal oil filter
18 ft/lb on the filter housing
10 ft/lb on the filter housing drain plug
Where did you find that this Metal Oil Filter housing was a Replacement part for the OEM Plastic part ????? I have been searching for over a week and find no TOYOTA part made that is a replacement part for the Gen 3 Tacoma.....
I forget where I found it. It might have been on the TacomaWorld site. I cannot take credit for it, it was not my discovery.
Very informative video. Im about to do my first oil change on my 2021 tacoma. Kinda sad though that this is the only tacoma video you ended up making.
Thank you for the encouragement to make more videos. There are a bunch of great videos out there already on Tacoma repairs/upgrades so I really would prefer to make videos that I feel the Tacoma community doesn't have already.
@@diyautotech9113 I understand the logic in your thinking, but at the same time, i just feel like binging all the tacoma content I can.
Oil change went super smooth by the way, thanks in part to your video. 👍
Considering what little oil you lose, you could actually swap the aluminum filter housing with the plastic between oil changes?
Yes you can. You only lose about 1/3 of a quart.
I hate to ask stupid questions, I just installed this filter with the stamp on the filter facing upwards, you installed it facing down 12:43, both sides looked identical to me, does it matter which way the filter goes in?
I just followed the reverse of removal technique. I agree with you, the filter looks identical to me on both sides and I wouldn't hesitate to install it either way. Thanks for the question Fady!
keep up the good work hope you get somewhere with this channel. have a good day : ]
: ]
Would know if I can swap the plastic assembly on my 2021 Tacoma V6 4x4 for the aluminum one?
Sorry Ray, I don't know enough about the 2021s. I can't give you an educated opinion. Please post your findings though. Thank you
It might be metal to metal but you can over tighten it. In fact, that is what causes the most problems with this system. The torque specs should be followed.
Oil pan drain plug torque: 40 N•m/30 ft lbs
Oil filter cap torque: 25 (±5) N•m/18 (±3.5) ft lbs
Oil filter drain plug torque: 13 N•m/10 ft lbs
I believe the oil filter drain attachment that comes with the $2.97 Supertech oil filter also screws in.
Actually used a hook to remove the o-rings is not recommended.
Now I'm waiting for all those videos of how to remove stuck aluminum filter housing that would be even more difficult to remove than plastic one.
What is the diameter of the oil filter drain hole in canister housing? I want to purchase a valve and replace that plug, then I can just open it when I change the oil.
That's not going to work. Not if you plan on using the proper tool to get the oil filter assembly cap off to chance the element.
www.amazon.com/MOCW-Filter-Draining-Compatible-Toyota/dp/B08C5F5FQP/ref=sr_1_33?dchild=1&keywords=toyota+Lexus+2.5+5.7+oil+drink+tool&qid=1630468212&sr=8-33
Great thorough video!!
I bought an Amsoil oil filter for my 2016 Tacoma and it had the same threaded filter drain... Hated it. Too easy to cross thread, as you stated. Luckily I had the regular factory plug and used that
MrHeepspo why mess with it? Just pull the housing off and pour the oil out. I didn’t see the need to worry about draining such a small amount of oil out.
with mobile 1 how often are you changing your oil ?
Mobile 1 has different grades and formulas of engine oil. Read the recommended milage for which every oil you choose.
It’s cool to remove the filter housing without draining all the oil in the engine? I just want to replace the housing without having to buy new oil
Mr. Morningstar better yet just keep the factory one until you damage it
Ok geniuses, there are reasons that someone may want to remove the filter cap ahead of their next oil change. What if you just changed the oil a couple weeks ago and a small leak has developed at the filter cap? The oil is basically brand new...do you want to dump out $30 worth of oil just to fix a $2 O-ring? Also, there are many people out there who replace the synthetic oil at 10K intervals, but replace the filter every 5K.
Anyway OP, there is no issue removing the filter cap without draining the oil. You will loose only what is in the cap.....half a quart or so. In fact, I believe they swapped the cap and filter before draining the oil even in this video.
You won't lose anywhere near 1/2 qt when only changing the filter.. Maybe a 10th of a qt.
Rapid one yah, wait until it's damaged to replace it, that's really smart. You just drained all the oil out of your truck and have no way to fill it up and drive it due to the damaged filter housing, really smart, dumbass.
@Your moms HITACHI
I agree but there's no reason to resort to obscenity.
Love the wheels. What Model and specifications? Thanks
They are from a Toyota 4Runner.
Can’t find brass part your talking about on amazon
www.amazon.com/MOCW-Filter-Draining-Compatible-Toyota/dp/B08C5F5FQP/ref=sr_1_33?dchild=1&keywords=toyota+Lexus+2.5+5.7+oil+drink+tool&qid=1630468212&sr=8-33
Why did you swap to an aluminum oil filter? I the a problem with the OEM?
Redirect No. 10’s of Millions of Toyota’s have the stock composite oil filter housing.
Actually the plastic housing is not a problem if people replacing the oil filter element would simply follow the torque specifications.
You should still torque that to spec that way it ensures you're not over or under tightening. Snug to one person does not in the same to another LOL
Does this fit on the 2020 trd off road?
david anthony yes
I never mess with that filter drain plastic thing! Just pull the filter housing off and turn it over into a drain bucket. One less o-ring to mess with also!
James Wuertele that’s what the techs at Toyota do
Think I would have put some fresh oil in that canister filter before I spun it up to the block
On the old 4.0 that was necessary, but on the 3.5, since it's on the bottom and upside down, gravity takes care of it for you.
I bought a 2022 Tacoma TRD Sport 4 months ago. If i had seen this video….it would have been relegated to my second or third choice. It is 2022…..why is Toyota making it more difficult and costly to perform an oil change?
Oh man Balli, don't say that :D. These are the best trucks out there. I love my 2017 Tacoma more everyday. You made a great choice. This oil filter thing is "small potatoes."
Well done video ! I don't see the link to the parts on Amazon though.
Thanks for bring this to my attention. Rookie RUclips mistake on my part. I fixed it. Please go the video description and click "Show More" to reveal the details of the parts used. Thanks again for the feedback! -Greg
Can I use M1C 251 A for this
Not sure about the "A" in your part number, but this is the filter I purchased: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FJICOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Great video
why can't they just fuckin make this engine use a spin-on filter like the 4cyl
Toyota should have just used a regular style oil filter the way it use to be they come up with the extra junk as a drain plug in a housing can a paper cartridge all just to make tons of extra money off the consumers they already make tons of money for the prices of the tacomas absolutely outragesally greedy...
Engineer must be dump or crazy?
Thanks, I just purchased a 2018 Tacoma and will be changing my own oil. Been changing my oil since 1974. Best video I've seen!
those spin on spin off filters were way to easy
The spin-on filters cost more money so, duh.
Do they make aluminum oil filter housings for the newer RAV4's ?
The latest models have reverted to a spin-on filter.
At 6:40 of the video mention the oil filter drain can valve but never provide a part # but the diameter would be more helpful.
www.amazon.com/MOCW-Filter-Draining-Compatible-Toyota/dp/B08C5F5FQP/ref=sr_1_33?dchild=1&keywords=toyota+Lexus+2.5+5.7+oil+drink+tool&qid=1630468212&sr=8-33
What size it the oil cap remover??
Just get one designated for your year, engine and model. You do not want the one that fits a 1.8 liter Corolla unless that's what you have.
I didn't get a chance to watch the whole "video" but I have a few things to mention. Some people have bought some ( not all ) "metal" ( aluminum ) oil filter housings off of Amazon and had "issues" with the part. A very common problem with this rather silly Toyota oil filter system is that do it yourselfers and even "quick oil change" places over tighten the oil filter housing. I believe it only requires 17-18 lb feet of torque which is not very much at all. same with that drain plug on the bottom and I believe that one is even less torque????? I wouldn't suggest using an oil that says it is good for one year or 20,000 miles???? or is it kms? It is better to use the mileage or time that is suggested in the owners manual which is usually 16,000 kms and I would suggest it's cheap insurance to replace it sooner than that 8000 to 10000 kms or 5000 -6000 miles or 6 months max. Mobil Oil filters are probably good but there are some "fake" Toyota Oil Filters available I believe "online" that are notorious for failing. They even have TOYOTA stamped on one of the fins but are made of cheaper, flimsy "paper". Use Toyota oil filters or a reputable brand there's no point in saving a couple bucks on an oil filter that may fail and cause thousands of dollars in repairs. It baffles me that Toyota has gone to plastic for such crucial engine components to "save a few bucks?????" It's even more confusing as Toyota makes a metal oil filter housing to replace the plastic ones ( probably over $30 at Toyota and under $20 "online" at Amazon etc. but there are counterfeits out there ( Toyota only sells their Genuine Toyota Parts through Dealerships because of the Franchise agreement that Toyota has with all their Dealerships) I also believe there are 2 different sizes of oil filter housings and i have no idea which models or years have which size. that Oil Filter housing removal tool looks pretty nice, the plastic ones ones "slip" and or round off especially if the housing was previously overtightened. If you replace the plastic one with a metal one keep the plastic one around just in case it's needed again.
Alex, thanks for taking the time to write your advice and opinion man!
I asked Toyota if this housing will fit my 2019 TRD off-road and they said no. I'm wondering if they are full of shit like when you want to order the pro grill but will only let you if you have the Vin for the pro.
Don't just take my word for it, but I believe that the TRD off-road has the same motor as the 2WD 4.0 V6. Look it up to confirm. Another thing you can do to confirm, is wait till you do your oil change and see for your self if your filter canister look similar to the one I show in the video. I hope this helps.
@@diyautotech9113 well mine is a 4x4 3.5L V6. Still looks the same. I still think it should be fine but not sure 😅
Good job on the video. As I have been changing my oil on my Tacoma’s for over 20 years now and currently own a ‘17 with the 3.5 liter engine I’m compelled to comment. I do not see any advantage to installing an aluminum filter housing-none. Also, OEM filters work as good as any aftermarket available and the filter you installed is much different than the OEM part. I would not use it because of that. Lastly, your trucks warranty will most likely be voided if you go over the 10,000 mile recommended change interval.
Everything you said is misguided and stupid. Best keep quiet if you don't know anything
Everything you said is true. There is nothing wrong with the OEM plastic oil filter cap. The problem is the mechanics who obviously can't even read the torque specs printed on the cap. Tighten to 25 N•m which is equal to 18 ft.lbs. Don't put it on with an impact tool and don't hand tighten it like some muscle bound jock whose job it is to just pick things up an put them down. 18 ft.lbs. will not cause any damage.
No need to use a pic to remove the old o ring. Just use your thumb and forefinger to push it giving slack on the other side that you can grab with your fingers
It's my opinion that the aluminum oil filter assembly is actually not a good idea. You only have to torque the plastic one to 18 lb.ft. Also, if not threaded carefully, the aluminum ones have the potential of stripping and damaging the threads, where the plastic ones never will. As long as you do your own oil changes and torque everything yourself to the proper specs, this doesn't pose any problems.
That's just my 2 cents.
Thanks for comment Matt, I always appreciate a different perspective. I totally agree with your comment on torquing your own parts; it's one of the reasons I still do my own oil changes.
Well done
I swap my but my is Titanium
Why don't we just admit that if mechanics would stop using an impact wrench to put on the oil filter assembly cap and DIYers would also follow the torque specifications, there would be no problem with the OEM plastic part
I do my oil changes and some how it cracked when I went to losen it. Going aluminum.
@@wannabecarguy
Probably from all the oil changes in the past when it was over-torqued. ?
Don’t buy the cheap housing tool. It’s bad like use standard socket with metric. Ask me why I know
Hi Steve, I read all your previous post and I learned and agree with your emphasis on proper torque because my time repairing jets in the USAF. I think what most of us working on vehicles are trying to overcompensate for variables we can't control (e.g. previous techs over torquing, plastic material failure, etc.).
and it's an aluminum oil filter housing, not an aluminum oil filter.
I just bought a brand new 2019 Toyota Tacoma SR 4X4 with a 2.7 liter, 4-cylinder engine. It being a 4-cylinder engine, it appears to have a normal spin on canister. My engine is referred to as a: 2TR-FE. Is this correct?
A reply would be much appreciated.
Yes, the 2.7 is an old engine, and old filter.
Do u think that oil last that long????I did not sure about keep 1 year in there?? too long for oil and filter???? What do you think? Thanks
I don't trust any advertised claim for oil, spark plugs, etc. I plan to change oil at 10,000 miles, half of the claimed 20,000 miles. I also encourage checking oil level and topping off every couple of months. I agree that oil should be changed earlier than 20,000, that is why I went with the matching filter. We'll just have to see how well it holds up.
I meant "I agree that the oil FILTER should be changed earlier..."
ThepDenNgoaiBien SAT THAT SAT CONG If you're going that long, but AMSOIL.
Toyota really fucked up an oil change, all this shit instead of easy spin on filter! this sucks
I'd like to know why some engineer laid awake at night dreaming how to complicate an already simple task on many vehicles such as changing out an oil filter. What a bunch of Bull S@*^.
PLEASE DO NOT GO 20,000 MILES,
5,000 MAX, THAT ENGINE COST A LOT.
"1 full year protection" XD
First if you buy the brass fitting to drain the oil out of housing, the metal on metal can cross thread. That’s why they give you a plastic one with the filter. And if you cross thread the aluminum aftermarket oil housing it’s gonna cost a whole lot more time and money to replace the female side of it. If you ask me after your last free oil change from the dealer and you decide to change your own oil. Pick up an oem plastic house as insurance before you start. Ask me why I know. Lol. Good luck 👍
It would be nice if Toyota provided an adapter so a regular spin on would work as to avoid this bs.
I learned that some Toyota owners wouldn't buy a Toyota if they learned about this (5 piece oil filter) in the first place.
Mobile one advertises 15k miles but they say follow your recommend oil change intervals so I think it’s a wast in my opinion
Some may use their vehicle to travel across the states. Theyre just saying that so theyre not accountable. But their oil is fully capable if you want to use your vehicle to travel across the states. To me, the interval you should follow are the ones that arent engine oil related. Especially the 4WD system.
I did 16000 to 18000 mile oil changes on my 16 Maxima. Using this oil and Archoil 9100. I did do oil analysis with Blackstone and my numbers were fantastic
Use AMSOIL
Stupid to change your oil once a year or 20k . Oil is cheap
plastic oil cap is better than aluminum cap do scratch easy on oil filter housing, o ring seal leaks ..
Huh?