Great video! Thank you for saving me money partner. 12ton harbor freight press, harbor freight bearing puller, and a 1-1/2 pvc pipe from Home Depot. I only removed the 2 bolts on the carrier and it slide out. First time 2hr job
i have been researching replacing these and I think you are the first person that showed a way to not take it to a shop to get it pressed on and the old one taken off or someone just taking a grinder after it
Great video! No BS and straight to the point on how to do a complete job including the little stuff like the clamp and rotating driveshaft. Thank you Sir!
Your video was the first ever watched regarding changing out the carrier bearing... I watched about 10 more videos and everybody looks like savages removing the drive shaft and banging away and cutting with all types of tools. I'm going to link your video and everybody else's video because people need to know that there is an easier way to do it rather than being a Savage. LOL
TCF my bearing was in good shape,it was the rubber bushing that failed. I can't really complain at close to 300,000 and the truck is used to pull a 40'gooseneck loaded and over several mountain passes every week up here in Wyoming an Idaho country. Ps freezing the Carrier and any U-joints may make installation a bit easier. Thanks for the detailed information 👍👍🇺🇲
Thanks for the video, I attempted this on my vehicle and the bearing wouldn’t budge. We tried several different ways to get it off with no success until we cut it. Unfortunately in the process of cutting it we did damage the metal underneath the bearing(can’t remember the name for it 😅) I filled the marks with some JB weld in hopes that’ll be enough. Using the pvc pipe worked like a charm though until it got stuck in the new bearing collar… 🙄 so make sure your pvc pipe goes in and out real easy before pounding on it. My truck has like 250k on it so maybe that why it was so hard to get off. Going to reinstall everything here soon and hopefully everything works ok. I bought the AC Delco gold part off Amazon for $36. My local Chevy dealer wanted $360 for the OE part so at ten times the cost I figure the cheaper part was worth a shot. If I had to do this again I might just spend the money to buy a press, if the damage to my driveline makes it fail then I won’t have saved any money and will have to buy a new driveline. Just my 2 cents. Good luck
The only thing I would add to this video. Which note you did a great job showing people that they can change this at home. Is I pull both driveshafts as a whole. Then take a marker drawing a straight line between the two. Making it seamless to re time the shafts
Delco is better - but make sure you get the right one. A lot will fit but a particular one came with your truck. Here is what I would do - go to gm parts and put in your vin number to search for your part/part number. It will give you the intended part for your vehicle. I then used the supplied part number to get the same AC Delco part from Summit - $47.50 with tax and shipping.
Yours has a nice little boot to cover the slip joint, yet here mine has a cap that I had to knock off to separate the two halfs and is now in the way of the bearing coming off. Do I just cut it and put a sleeve in its place or what? Ps. It has rubber on the inside of it and is smaller than the end of the driveshaft.
@@TigerCreekFarm i may have managed to do this. Carrier bearing is broken and currently I’m still able to drive with a nasty noise but no vibrations. Would removing and repositioning fix or is it to late?
Replacing the carrier bearing should fix your noise issue. The older spines were not "keyed" and you needed to mark each side so they would be reassembled correctly. If not aligned correctly the drive shaft will have a serious wobble. If you managed to install a keyed spline wrong you will probably have a difficult time separating it. Many, many hits with a dead blow hammer will do the job.
Not sure. To be safe paint/mark a line from the spline to the coupler before disassemble. That way you will have the known correct reassembly position.
If you still have the truck, I'd check your driveshaft geometry. That doesn't sound good that it dies quickly. See if the rear end isn't cocked to one side or like the engine and transmission are straight. Also if the driveshaft isn't bent, that one would seem more obvious because it probably shake the truck apart. Also the drive shaft angles too, your ujoints would probably cack it after that too and also shake the truck too. Just ideas.
One possible point of failure is Kroil penetrating oil getting into the new bearing and breaking down the grease. Can't tell for sure in this video but it's a possibility.
probable cause of part failure may be that you didn't mark the two parts and reassemble as they were taken apart and now the driveshaft is no longer balanced they are balanced at the factory as one unit
So much of the parts sold aftermarket lack basic quality and this is by design. Many times I have experienced new parts that simply didn’t work right out of the box. The last was a oil pressure sending unit I purchased on line because it was sold as OEM and was packaged accordingly. Before I retired the fleet shop I worked in got several front hub bearings that failed in record time, first set in less than 20 miles second set less than 100 yards third set as the truck was being backed out of the shop. Never experienced this 20 years ago with the frequency it seems to be occurring in these strange times. U tuber I believe he is known as uncle Tony did a video on this , a new rotor totally separated that could have been lethal .
I have the perspective of a year later, we're seeing an epidemic of bad parts including OEM. The common factor is they are made in low cost countries, even OEM. Reman GMC engine was so far out of spec that the mechanic had sense to get his supervisor, this is a GM dealership, 23 service bays. Had to order another engine, all the time transferring accessories was lost.
The reason your carrier bearings failed is because they are made in China. The genuine GM parts should be fine. Dont confuse the AC Delco "Gold" replacement parts with genuine GM OE parts. Most AC Delco Gold replacement parts are just repackaged aftermarket, and much of it is Chinese crap. I just bought a carrier bearing for an old square body crew cab, and of course no OE GM parts are still available. I found that the National Bearings brand unit is made in Mexico, but the good news is that the bearing itself that resides in the assembly is made in USA! So, if you want a US made bearing and a North American made/assembled unit, check out the National parts.
Not a great start saying that this is your 3rd one in 30,000 MI. Also you fail to mention that you need to mark your spine so that it lines up properly for balance. Some drive shafts are self-aligning, but some can be misaligned because there are two slots instead of one. This will cause your carrier bearing to fail
Mine has the slotted spline which I talk about in the video - so it self aligns. Absolutely correct about marking your shaft for realignment with other types of drive shafts.
They are premature failing because of how you are installing the new one. I’d bet money on it bud. You aren’t suppose to hit the bearing or race of a bearing with any force. Can easily cause failure. Which makes sense as to why yours has so much play in them. Otherwise good video
Not sure about that. The first failure after the original carrier bearing went out was replaced using a press - but using a lifetime warranty off brand bearing. Replaced this bearing three more times, using my method and getting a warranty replacement bearing. This last time I gave up on the inferior part and got an AC Delco. So far no failure. As long as you are sensible and strike only the inner race of this sealed bearing you should be ok. It's when you strike unevenly or use any of the cage you run into problems. That being said, the press is the best way to install a bearing.
Being a former Ford owner I like to spend my time doing other things than constantly working on my truck..... Switched to Chevy and lo and behold I've been able to fish five times a week instead of five times a month.
I was quoted $450 at a drive shaft shop to change my 2007 GMC2500hd Classic. I think your video just saved me $450, thank you very much.
Is that with you taking off drive shaft and drop it off? Or have them?
@@spin_tires_on_pavement-s.t5760 probably so
Thanks for the lesson! Great information and real easy to follow. I have a 2001 GMC 2500HD 4x4 and my carrier just went out at 222,000 miles.
Mine made it to just shy of 300,000
Great video! Thank you for saving me money partner. 12ton harbor freight press, harbor freight bearing puller, and a 1-1/2 pvc pipe from Home Depot. I only
removed the 2 bolts on the carrier and it slide out. First time 2hr job
i have been researching replacing these and I think you are the first person that showed a way to not take it to a shop to get it pressed on and the old one taken off or someone just taking a grinder after it
It can be done. A large vise to help hold things is very beneficial.
Great video..I'm going to tackle this tomorrow. SO GLAD it popped in feed..
Good luck!
Great video! No BS and straight to the point on how to do a complete job including the little stuff like the clamp and rotating driveshaft.
Thank you Sir!
Appreciate it
Other videos I’ve seen use a press I thought I would need too but after watching your video I am confident in doing it myself
Just make sure you are only hitting the inner race of the bearing.
You are the best sir this method will work for my c10 I’m gonna try it out today
Good luck!
Ole timer😉..... you just taught me something !! I really appreciate that help there sir....
Your video was the first ever watched regarding changing out the carrier bearing... I watched about 10 more videos and everybody looks like savages removing the drive shaft and banging away and cutting with all types of tools.
I'm going to link your video and everybody else's video because people need to know that there is an easier way to do it rather than being a Savage. LOL
Great video .Good demonstration and detail.
Best video for this component on YT. Two thumbs up. 👍👍 And thanks for making it!
Thank you too!
Need to do this to a 06 3500 but im gonna apply everything in this video inwtead it teying to sawzall like everyone else on youtube. Great video!
TCF my bearing was in good shape,it was the rubber bushing that failed. I can't really complain at close to 300,000 and the truck is used
to pull a 40'gooseneck loaded and over several mountain passes
every week up here in Wyoming an Idaho country. Ps freezing the Carrier and any U-joints may make installation a bit easier. Thanks for the detailed information 👍👍🇺🇲
Appreciate it.
Thanks for the video, I attempted this on my vehicle and the bearing wouldn’t budge. We tried several different ways to get it off with no success until we cut it. Unfortunately in the process of cutting it we did damage the metal underneath the bearing(can’t remember the name for it 😅) I filled the marks with some JB weld in hopes that’ll be enough. Using the pvc pipe worked like a charm though until it got stuck in the new bearing collar… 🙄 so make sure your pvc pipe goes in and out real easy before pounding on it. My truck has like 250k on it so maybe that why it was so hard to get off. Going to reinstall everything here soon and hopefully everything works ok. I bought the AC Delco gold part off Amazon for $36. My local Chevy dealer wanted $360 for the OE part so at ten times the cost I figure the cheaper part was worth a shot. If I had to do this again I might just spend the money to buy a press, if the damage to my driveline makes it fail then I won’t have saved any money and will have to buy a new driveline. Just my 2 cents. Good luck
Nothing like the satisfaction you get by doing it yourself. Also, I think you made the right decision to go with OEM part.
The only thing I would add to this video. Which note you did a great job showing people that they can change this at home. Is I pull both driveshafts as a whole. Then take a marker drawing a straight line between the two. Making it seamless to re time the shafts
I don’t think you can put them back together wrong I
Unless you force a single spline over a double spline
Great video. Thanks for the information. Very useful.
Thanks for the good video, in the process of doing mine right now lol
I got one from my local parts store. It has a Steel brace across the bottom the one the transmission shop put in only lasted about 15,000 miles
Excellent idea with the metal plate. ❤✔ AND the plastic pipe. See guys, you gotta be creative.
Cool video brother. Stay safe.
thank you !!!!!! I was up and going in a hour.
Very helpful video thanks a lot brother!
6:41 I would thinks this method would dent or damage the drive shaft???
Nope. You're simply holding the shaft firmly in a vise and striking the inner race of the bearing - not the shaft.
@@TigerCreekFarm yeah but isn’t that metal plate slapping the drive shaft end when he hammers it ?
Nope. It's only hitting the race of the bearing and using the end of the shaft as a guide.
Jan 4 2024. Need to replace mine. What brands were junk and did the ac Delco work out better?
Delco is better - but make sure you get the right one. A lot will fit but a particular one came with your truck. Here is what I would do - go to gm parts and put in your vin number to search for your part/part number. It will give you the intended part for your vehicle. I then used the supplied part number to get the same AC Delco part from Summit - $47.50 with tax and shipping.
It's been working fine since?@@TigerCreekFarm
Yours has a nice little boot to cover the slip joint, yet here mine has a cap that I had to knock off to separate the two halfs and is now in the way of the bearing coming off. Do I just cut it and put a sleeve in its place or what? Ps. It has rubber on the inside of it and is smaller than the end of the driveshaft.
I'm not sure - never encountered that before.
Wondering if you could tell me what would happen if you installed the spline wrong. Like forcing it in?
It would be difficult to do but it would be hard to remove and out of balance.
@@TigerCreekFarm i may have managed to do this. Carrier bearing is broken and currently I’m still able to drive with a nasty noise but no vibrations. Would removing and repositioning fix or is it to late?
Replacing the carrier bearing should fix your noise issue. The older spines were not "keyed" and you needed to mark each side so they would be reassembled correctly. If not aligned correctly the drive shaft will have a serious wobble. If you managed to install a keyed spline wrong you will probably have a difficult time separating it. Many, many hits with a dead blow hammer will do the job.
Thank you, very much! It's the best video for do it yourself.
Very helpful. Need to change mine.
Do you know if the 2005 Chevy Express 1500 cargo van has the double spline in both the trans and rear end?
I don't know.
Thanks for the video it worked for me just the way you said 👍
Would the double spline be the same on a ford?
Not sure. To be safe paint/mark a line from the spline to the coupler before disassemble. That way you will have the known correct reassembly position.
Chevy calls those "carrier bearings"? I only knew the ones in the diff called that. Really helpful video regardless.
Do you remember the part number by chance?
GM 12472452
@@TigerCreekFarm great thanks 🙌🙏
If you still have the truck, I'd check your driveshaft geometry. That doesn't sound good that it dies quickly. See if the rear end isn't cocked to one side or like the engine and transmission are straight. Also if the driveshaft isn't bent, that one would seem more obvious because it probably shake the truck apart. Also the drive shaft angles too, your ujoints would probably cack it after that too and also shake the truck too. Just ideas.
Is the bearing still hanging in there?
Yep. No problems so far.
Hi what carrier brand did you use oringal or acdelco etc .Ty.
Factory GM this time. So far so good.
@@TigerCreekFarm ok Ty.
One possible point of failure is Kroil penetrating oil getting into the new bearing and breaking down the grease. Can't tell for sure in this video but it's a possibility.
Didn’t work without a press, but the PVC work for install.
Great video good sir!!!
Good Video. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome job
Need to get the drive shaft balanced. If the gm bearing goes out aswell
I've got to Install one on my 74 C10... Thanks for easier way.
probable cause of part failure may be that you didn't mark the two parts and reassemble as they were taken apart and now the driveshaft is no longer balanced they are balanced at the factory as one unit
These shafts are key splined and can only be put together one way so there is no need to mark the shaft.
That's how I was taught. Mark both ends for exact replacement location
Too bad they're keyed shafts 🤦
@@AsaSpadeSS He obviously fell asleep and missed the thorough discussion of the double spline. Attention span measured in fractions of a second.
What is the part number on that
GM Genuine 12472452
So much of the parts sold aftermarket lack basic quality and this is by design. Many times I have experienced new parts that simply didn’t work right out of the box. The last was a oil pressure sending unit I purchased on line because it was sold as OEM and was packaged accordingly. Before I retired the fleet shop I worked in got several front hub bearings that failed in record time, first set in less than 20 miles second set less than 100 yards third set as the truck was being backed out of the shop. Never experienced this 20 years ago with the frequency it seems to be occurring in these strange times. U tuber I believe he is known as uncle Tony did a video on this , a new rotor totally separated that could have been lethal .
I have the perspective of a year later, we're seeing an epidemic of bad parts including OEM. The common factor is they are made in low cost countries, even OEM. Reman GMC engine was so far out of spec that the mechanic had sense to get his supervisor, this is a GM dealership, 23 service bays. Had to order another engine, all the time transferring accessories was lost.
This video was very amazing, and I saw that I have the same badass truck. Fucking mint 👌
you are absolutely correct I had U joints on my brain my apologies
The problem is they're not putting enough grease in prepacked bearings. They're designed to go out sooner.
Thanks for sharing
Awesome!!
Good man, replacing one beside the road sucks
C10 guy it doesn’t have one, solid shaft, not split shaft lol
very possible driveshaft needs balance have to balance both sections that's way bearings not lasting
Looks more like a 1/4” plate from here.
That's what I was thinking.. I just did mine and ³/16 did the trick
Thanks
Helpful. Thank you... But RTV for the boot and a chisel to seat a bearing...bro!
Thanks your very through
What size are your tires?
265 75 16
@@TigerCreekFarm did you also a leveling kit
Oh and yeah new parts can be trash too. Like another guy here on the tube says "you know what new means? It means never ever worked" lol.
someone worked on that center support before and left the splash shield off
The reason your carrier bearings failed is because they are made in China. The genuine GM parts should be fine. Dont confuse the AC Delco "Gold" replacement parts with genuine GM OE parts. Most AC Delco Gold replacement parts are just repackaged aftermarket, and much of it is Chinese crap.
I just bought a carrier bearing for an old square body crew cab, and of course no OE GM parts are still available. I found that the National Bearings brand unit is made in Mexico, but the good news is that the bearing itself that resides in the assembly is made in USA! So, if you want a US made bearing and a North American made/assembled unit, check out the National parts.
You didn't put inside dust shield it going to go in another 30.000 miles.
That would be "it's" ;-)
Shaft vibration.may be need be rebalance. Wore out the bearing.
Not a great start saying that this is your 3rd one in 30,000 MI. Also you fail to mention that you need to mark your spine so that it lines up properly for balance. Some drive shafts are self-aligning, but some can be misaligned because there are two slots instead of one. This will cause your carrier bearing to fail
Also, I see that your old bearing does not have the spacer, another possible cause
Mine has the slotted spline which I talk about in the video - so it self aligns. Absolutely correct about marking your shaft for realignment with other types of drive shafts.
Can't you just push out and replace the bearings
Not sure what you mean.
Don't clamp the tube in a vise for gods sake
its called master spline
That would be "it's" ;-)
Factory gm is just as crappy as cheap chinese stuff. Why? Because it IS the same stuff.
its not called carrier bearing, its called "center support bearing" okay!
That would be "it's" ;-)
They are premature failing because of how you are installing the new one. I’d bet money on it bud. You aren’t suppose to hit the bearing or race of a bearing with any force. Can easily cause failure. Which makes sense as to why yours has so much play in them. Otherwise good video
Not sure about that. The first failure after the original carrier bearing went out was replaced using a press - but using a lifetime warranty off brand bearing. Replaced this bearing three more times, using my method and getting a warranty replacement bearing. This last time I gave up on the inferior part and got an AC Delco. So far no failure. As long as you are sensible and strike only the inner race of this sealed bearing you should be ok. It's when you strike unevenly or use any of the cage you run into problems. That being said, the press is the best way to install a bearing.
@@TigerCreekFarm the press applies pressure on the race, frequently using a short length of pipe, same as the hammer method shown.
Should have bought a Ford.
Ouch
He likes working on things but a Ford would keep him too busy!
@@robertgibson2800 driving.
I don’t think he flies the rainbow flag 🏳️🌈 🌈 that is required by Ford owners
Being a former Ford owner
I like to spend my time doing other things than constantly working on my truck.....
Switched to Chevy and lo and behold I've been able to fish five times a week instead of five times a month.