LB7 Duramax | GMC Sierra 3500 Drive Shaft Center/Carrier Bearing Install (Without a Press)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- LB7 Duramax | GMC 3500 Crew Cab Long Bed Dually: Drive Shaft Center/Carrier Bearing Install (DIY driveway mechanic special). I used basic tools I had laying around the shop to remove and tap on the bearing. Removal would have been a bit easier had I found my chisel earlier in the video!
Parts:
🔴Driveshaft Center Bearing - Genuine GM Parts 88934865: amzn.to/3gvw3qi
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Symptoms of Bad Carrier Bearings and U-Joints
Vibration Under Acceleration. If the carrier bearing loosens, it can separate from the bracket and clunk as the driveshaft spins. ...
Spinning or Grinding Noise Under the Vehicle.
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#lb7duramax
#gmcsierra
#chevysilverado
#driveshaftcarrierbearing
Switch to a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and call it a day. Never deal with those carrier bearings again! what a difference!
@CoolCarsKJ I've been thinking about this conversion very intently for a while now. I bet it would drive smooth as butter with a one piece. I'm not sure I'm ready to lose that clearance just yet though. Maybe if I put on taller tires. I get down and dirty with some nasty old logging roads and figure if I bang up my drive shaft, the stocker would easier to swap out. Idk though, the 1 piece aluminum has a lot of upsides
Looks like a ton of work. I admire your persistence. I do most of my own vehicle maintenance, but I watched one video where the guy really struggled with a 20 Ton press and I decided I’d let the guys that do it day in and day out handle it.
Heard ya on that. There are some things I probably will not attempt on this truck until/unless I invest in some heavy equipment such as swapping the transmission. For larger bears like that I'll take it to someone will proper tools. For everything else, where there is a will there is a way :) Kind of like the projects you do on your channel. Good stuff btw, we need more DIY this day in age!
Luv it when the FSM sez “remove center carrier bearing”. 😀
Lol, for real! 😆
awesome video. im dealing with the same thing. Thanks for sharing. shalom.
Thank you for watching and best of luck with your project! 🍻
Your chisel was hiding... trying to convince you to pay the lil bit of money to have the thing removed by a press. Hahaha
haha, they are devious like that :D The job would have went so much smoother if I knew where the dang thing was from the start - Should have known it was tucked in my travel bag from my overland trip. As Grandpa Rex would say "Well...That's life". lol
Thanks bro I just did my 2008 2500HD and used the identical carrier bearing that you used-I’ve watched a few of your videos for reference over the last year or two when doing work on my truck-very helpful when one ordinary guy with ordinary tools can watch another ordinary guy get the job done 👍🏼
Hell yeah Stacy, you hit the nail on the head "ordinary guy with ordinary tools". We are all DIY weekend warrior driveway mechanics! Tanks brotha 🍻
Thank you, just did my center support bearing and replaced my u joints with grease able joints. Your video helped. Had to custom make a boot as well, mine had no boot to start off
@barnyard_fab heck yeah man, glad you got er fixed!
That wasn’t bad video, but you forgot to tell them to be careful you don’t cut into the bear surface on the drive shaft, that will make for a bad days work and drive line service is expensive! All in all not bad, did it with out expensive and specialty tools 👍
I'm curious, how bad did the vibration and shuddering get ???
When you FIRST, FIRST started to. Súspect a issue what did you 1st suspect ?? I'm right at the door of 200,000 and it's towed ALL its life since I drove it off the lot. But I can b sure of what I'm feeling know verse's what I felt back new in 03 !!!!
It was knocking pretty good. With mine it was a combination of rubber deterioration and u joints going back which caused enough vibration to weaken the rubber in the carrier bearing even more. If I were you I'd check all your u joints for play, give them some grease and see if it makes a difference for ya. Also if you shake the driveshaft by the carrier bearing and there's a lot of play then that's a good indication it needs to be changed. With new u joints and new carrier bearing your ride will be pretty smooth 😊🍻
Awesome job, thanks for sharing
Thanks Rich 🍻
I accidentally nicked the driveshaft ever so slightly taking that race off the bearing goes over gonna slap a new carrier bearing on and send it thanks again for this video mine was way worse even the mounting bolts had to be cut on mine
@@johnsshenanigans6566 glad ya got it back together!
When putting the bearing on its better to get a pipe with an ID big enough to match up with the bearing race, then you can pound down from the top instead of the side to side pounding down motion in the video. What you did could screw up the bearing ID.
Heard that man. Wish I had a pipe with a big enough ID to fit around the race. I was pretty careful though and didn't bring the hammer down with the might of Thor. Light taps all the way around did the trick. Sometimes you gotta work with the tools you have and not the ones you want, eh? 🙂 Cheers 🍻
People just don’t realize how hard it is to do this kind of work yourself.
you spelled easy wrong
I was told, by a professional, that after replacing the carrier bearing to start the 2 bolts but leave em loose. Then go back and forth a few times, then tighten the bolts. It sets the bearing straight. I had some noise after replacing mine, did that, and everything is fine now.
Thanks for the Tip Terry! That makes a lot of sense to get proper alignment. I will absolutely keep that in my back pocket. 🍻
Great video! Impressed with that sawzall blade cutting into a bearing race…
I’ve got a plasma cutter I’ll use for mine. Not for cutting but to heat it up red hot and slide it off. We’ll see if that works
That should work well enough! Lol, yeah I picked up an angle grinder not too long after I filmed this video but the sawzall came in clutch. "I get it one piece at a time" 😁 best of luck 🍻
Don't use the cheap carrier bearings out there, or there's a good chance you will be doing this job again in 5k miles. Maybe even less? I've replaced mine twice this past year, and I'm gonna have to do it again. Just as soon as it gets here. I bought the more expensive one this time with the high carbon steel bearings. Hopefully, this one lasts a long time. My truck is weak,only 146 hp to the rear tires. 4.3L S-10 pickup. A friend of a friend has a shop with a Dyno. We just put it on there for the heck of it. I think it's sposta make 175hp at the Flywheel. It's all stock w/ Remanufactured engine. Manual transmission.
Very helpful
Thank you for the information bro I’m about to change my
@@StacyRodriguez-o4b you are very welcome. Good luck, you got this!
Nice video sir! May i ask how did you noticed the vibration back when you had that bad center bearing or the rubber that surrounds it, was it during high speeds or low speeds? I'm suspecting that part of the driveshaft of our old van because i felt vibration recently. But i only felt it when i give it a heavy/sudden acceleration. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you Salvador! I noticed the vibrations at higher speeds. You might also check the play in your U-joints too. I had a pretty bad u joint that bounced the driveshaft around so bad that it destroyed what was left of that carrier bearing.
Thank you for showing this
Thank you for watching!
Thought you were loading a gun to shoot it at 8:00.
Sawzall solves everything. :-)
A good piece of advice for getting that driveshaft cold for the new bearing, take a can of keyboard duster, hold the can upside down and spray the driveshaft. I'll save you the science because I'm lazy but it will cause only the liquid to spray out of the can causing the driveshaft to instantly freeze. Be careful as you can get frost bite and dont breathe it in.
Ah man, yeah that's a great idea. Thanks for the suggestion!
What kind of vibrations did you have? I'm getting them when I first start driving to about 15 mph and then again at 55-70mph but after 70 it goes away
When the carrier bearing went out it was very noticeable at 15-20 mph. Ultimately I think it was bad u joints that wrecked the carrier bearing so you might want to check those for play then give your oil seal on your transfer case output shaft an inspection just to cover your bases.
good ideal to check driveshafts and have both balance give longer u-joint and bearing life
Is driveshaft aluminum?
It is stock.
I was worried the trans fluid was going come out
Sir my trailblazer 2014 has no cross joint fittings, how can I put grease on it, please help
Hello Jun del Rosario, and thank you for your question! Are you talking about the U-joints? It sounds like they are sealed so you don't have to grease them because the grease is contained in there. Cheers 🍻
great video! im putting a one piece driveshaft in this weekend so i never deal with the bearing going out again lol
I hear good things about the one piece driveshaft, I may invest in one the next go around. Thanks Richard!
@@KooshdaakaaGarage i installed it today i really like it
Wow your video helped me a lot !! Thank you so much
Absolutely! Glad it helped 🙂👍
Great Video. I'm slowly cutting away that last piece w/ a grinder using Diablo wheels & it's not even budging yet, I do not want to cut into the shaft lol.
You'll get it with the grinder for sure man! Best of luck 🍻
You are not going to hurt that shaft if you nick it, use the grinder and be careful. It's a chunk of steal. Just think the drive shafts of the 70's never had any issues with balancing. Nicks can be filled with JB weld if you think it needs it.
Good video and dug the heavy music. Do you think a steel rated hacksaw would cut through when taking off the old bearing? Of course I would get a couple of extra blades in case they are needed. I just do not trust my hand grinder or a sawsall...afraid I will hit the shaft itself no matter how careful I might be...grind disc or might slip or something. Exactly how long did all of this take you btw?
Thanks David! Man, I was sawing for well over an hour with the sawzal and ultimately after cutting a trench it was the chisel and hammer that busted through. If you are going to try a hack saw be prepared to be there for a while. That said, I think the metal is so hard that the grinder won't slice through like a hot knife through butter so I would go with the grinder if I were you. You can try a similar approach to what I did and cut a deep trench with the grinder use the chisel and hammer to bust it the rest of the way. Cheers 🍻
@@KooshdaakaaGarage I was more afraid of the grinder disc slipping and hitting the shaft itself....but I may try
Nice video good info and thorough thanks
Thank you Charles!
15mm, 11mm for rear U joint. Check rear U joint for wear. My forward two joints were good. grease them while out, they have fittings for grease service. Use a thin cutoff disc and cut bearing off. easier than a saw saw. you only have to cut the bearing on one side then it will hammer off easily. At least he showed you how he got the bearing off. other videos fail to show you the most difficult part of the job. No torch you will cook the seal, bad idea. Use a piece of pipe when hammering on the bearing. put the transition in neutral you can rotate the shaft an line it up. Good video.
Dang bro you earned that1
BY THE TIME YOU PAY FOR THE BLADES GO BUY A CHEAP HARBOR FREIGHT GRINDER
Heard that. I picked up an m18 fuel grinder shortly after this video 🥳 one of those things that once you have one it's hard to imagine living without all those years 🍻
How has that bearing head up still look good?
It was holding up great until recently when the rear driveshaft u joint strap failed which caused the u joint to knock around violently. Took a while for me to fix it and by then it took the rubber part of the bearing out. I replaced it with the same one after I fixed the strap and it's been holding strong the past few months 💯
Small War
Looked like a fun pain in the ass!
It was!
next time that bearing goes, get your local driveline shop to make you a custom 1 piece aluminum shaft. best thing i ever did to my truck. waaay smoother especially on take off if your towing huge loads.
Good to hear positive reviews on the 1 piece. I've been looking at those for a while and it seems like the way to go 🤘 light weight, more stable, less moving parts to consider, overall stronger make. Thanks!
How much did it run you for the 1 piece shaft?
@@shawn3957 $1500 Canadian. New u joints, reused slip yoke, and rear flange.
@@ohnij3d221 I just paid $700 2 weeks again to have my 2 piece rebuilt and balanced by a machine shop. I have less than 200 miles on it and I just noticed a sleeve slid out from the center of the rear spline side of the carriage bearing. And, the rubbers pushing out of the top of the new carrier bearing. It’s a Spicer brand too. Everything else is new, including the transfer case. I don’t know what the hells going on, maybe it’s a sign that I should have went with the 1 piece.
@@shawn3957 how's the angles? Truck lifted?