Things that might help with a project like this: Rear Axle Seal: amzn.to/2CR2Q3N Spindle Nut Socket: amzn.to/2CMRHRE Gallon Lucas: amzn.to/2MCFpQf This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Great vid. As a heavy duty mechanic I would have suggested pre fill the hub with gear oil before pushing it all the way on the axle stub. One other way to get oil to that hub is to jack up the other side so the oil runs into the hub you just had off
Awesome, I pretty much already knew how to do this but, I am glad that I searched for a video and saw this one. This guy is a pro and the video is great because it's all business no bullshit and fluff. Probably the only person I have subscribed to on here.
I just got myself an 01' 2500HD extended cab last week. Traded a KZ1000 for it. I got a leaky seal so thank you for this video, doesnt look like too big of a pain.
Just finished my 2005 2500 hd 10.5 I should have watched the video again before I started. I forgot the gear before putting on the seal. Had to get another one. The original seal on mine is now different as I found out. All of this was on the video but I forgot. Very good video and something you can do with patients. Thanks again for showing me how.
Thanks for posting this video; I recently ran into an issue where I broke off two wheel studs when rotating my tires, and this process helped my light bulb come on for the hub removal/re-install process.
Thank you, I just noticed my passenger side leaking after pulling my rotors off to have them turned. I was dreading the idea of tearing this apart but you made it look pretty simple. I just called O'Reilly's they have all the parts in stock I'm attacking it tomorrow
Haha! My right one was leaking after I had to replace my parking brake shoes, and i replaced it, left was pefectly fine, until I drove from Illinois (where I live) to Phoenix AZ. Now left is leaking after being perfect all this time. SOL but, got some tools and a new seal. Bout to do this in a parking lot Edit: Got it done in a few hours. God bless autozone for letting me loiter in their parking lot to fix it. On the road again, thank ye
I had a shop in Georgia change the right rear axle seal on my 2013 Chevy 2500 hd and it was like being tortured watching the guy. He didn't have a spindle nut wrench or socket and he went to look for one and I took the retaining clip off and key way out and got the nut off before he returned. We struggled to get the hub off and seal broke and half of it stayed on the shaft. Got it all apart and there wasn't any damage to the shaft or bearings thank God. During this whole process I was calling everywhere trying to find a spindle nut socket with no luck. Got it all back together and I'm hoping for the best even though there's some brake noise from the pads for some reason. I was only in town to pick up a cargo trailer to deliver to a customer in Mississippi and I'll be keeping a really close eye on it to make sure it doesn't start heating up or anything. Not exactly a nightmare but, I never like it when a shop has that many problems with such a relatively easy job.
@@mossman381 Thanks, me too. I made the trip to Mississippi ok and checked it quite a few times when I first started and nothing was heating up. It was the right rear axle seal and when I turn left it makes a noise still. I was hoping it was just something on the pad that needed to wear off but I think something is out of alignment. Maybe the parking brake ? I don't know. Might have to take it apart and check it out. If I weren't pressed for time I was going to buy the couple of tools that I needed and just do it myself in a parking lot somewhere beside an auto parts store.
Great video, thank you! I love when the work is actually done, instead of just talking about it. Your video helped me show a customer what was broke in his truck, and may have saved his life because he didn't realize the axle shaft and the plate were one piece, and he was still driving it. We got him taken care of, thank you so much for the awesome video! -parts girl
I just replaced my seal. I didn't have any seal or rtv where my axle bolts to the hub and it didn't leak. Also, it's safe to say it was worked on before. The original seal was a different style than what yours had and the replacement was actually identical to the one on yours that was leaking. Also, yes. The nut was way too tight when you took it apart. Great video!
I had to remove the visor on my 03 duramax because whoever installed it used one screw that wasn't stainless and it finally started leaking, so I had to fix it. IDK how much the shipping cost would be but I'm not going to put it back on, so you could have it for free if you want it for you or your dads truck. You've helped me a ton and I appreciate it.
Thank you for the excellent video. I have a 1993 CK 3500. I'm not sure what type of Axle I have. I don't think it is floating but I will find out when I get the tires off. Thanks again.
@@mossman381 I've never done this before so if you have any advice I would appreciate it. I live in a very small town and I haven't found anyone who knows how. If I need the special socket if I can't rent it I will purchase it. I will start on it when it gets warmer. I really appreciate you replying.
Very helpful ,have one in the shop and doing it my first time was concerned when the seal stayed on the tube and the bearing was all loose in the hub! Thanks for clearing my head 👍
Did you have to drain any gear fluid before replacing the seal? im about to do mine and that is the only thing im unsure of. not sure if ill get a release and what to replace it with yet.
Iinteresting didnt know they bearing are sitting in oil bath. I would have very lightly packed that bearing and then drove it and changed diff fluid but thats just personal preference. Nice video.
...so at 9:16 you say "got the seal lubed up a little bit" - does that mean the seal get's grease or something to help it slide onto the spindle? - As I understand it is a two-piece seal (the actual 'seal' being inside the two-piece design and not like an old school one-piece type that seal against the spindle itself) and I've read that the seal is supposed to slide on 'dry', making a tight seal to the spindle. Are you saying it is supposed to be lubed?
Have a daully used an extra spindle nut to keep the key way in instead of the stupid c clip fits just right against the axle flange , new specs call for around 50 ish pounds for the spindle nut , one prob I think is the 2 part seal and the new seal , I think it’s not correctly made to take up the horizontal “ play “ ??
need limited slip additive ? how can i tell if i need it. visual signs if any .i know its 14 bolt 11.5 full floating duel wheel axle not original from junk yard is all i know for sure now on a 07 ram 3500 diesel 4x4 duelly HD?
Are the bearings and the seal the same for the 10.5” and 11.5”? I’m in sweden and hard to find parts over here, if so i need to order from the states! And really don’t now what bearing i should buy then
Any pointers I did this job last Friday and put new caliper on my truck as well and I’ve noticed today either my new caliper is sticking or my hub but is to tight but I torqued it to 50 ft pounds and backed it off a quarter turn and put the keeper back in. Hub turns freaked but noticed it’s smoking
Check to make sure your brake rotor isn't hitting the brake shield. I had new rotors do that one time and everything turned great until I torqued down my wheels. Had to turn down the brake rotors but I think the rotors were made wrong.
mossman381 I have read all over the internet and RUclips that they get plugged and then blow the axle seals. Wanting to do some Pre-maintenance before this happens. Truck is new to me. 2006 Duramax
I did both sides on my dually. One side on dads 04 awhile ago and one side on my 02. Seals get old and fail. I would have to see all these plugged vent lines. If you are worried you would have to pull the diff cover and blow out the vent hose. I really don't know how the vent would get plugged.
That seal is a two piece design so it doesn’t actually move on the spindle surface. It is fixed on the spindle and inside the hub. It is important to tighten the bearing nut first to something like 100 lb/ft and then back it off to seat the seal on the spindle and when you back it off you provide clearance between the moving parts of the seal.
@@thebrushhawg I would recommend checking the inner and outer bearing and their seating in the race of each. I replaced my axle seal last summer and it failed in the winter. The inner bearing, on my 2004 GMC 2500 4*4, must have been improperly seated or just plain bad. It was very lose on the second seal replacement job, which is likely why it failed in the winter. I have replaced 2 bearings and races and another seal and all the brake shoes again. I gave the hub a good smack on a 2*4 and then torqued it to 100lbs. I then backed it off, until I got a good position for the key installation. NO LEAKS! :) I also drained the rear differential again and filled again with synthetic 75w 90 Castrol gear oil. BG :)
@@BrianGallagherSylvanLk did the bearings being bad cause your abs light on and where did you find the bearings as every auto parts store I've checked are trying to sell me them and in the description of them it says for a 10.5" and I thought duramaxs are 11.5" axle I have a 2007.5 gmc sierra duramax lmm
When I did mine after the 50 pound torque and quarter turn back the hub would not spin at all? I had to loosen the nut back and tighten by hand. Hope it works
A leaking wheel seal is hard to see. It's not a hard job but you don't want the bearing too tight. It looked like someone had this nut too tight. I am thinking I should check the other side to make sure.
If anybody else ends up in the situation I would recommend replacing the emergency brakes you don't want to clean them don't ever be clean like they need to be replaced them
This truck is a 4x4. There will be no difference in the rear axle of a 4wd and 2wd truck. Probably have to do some checking online to find the parts you need for your truck.
So I let someone do my rear axle seal and I noticed they used grease on my bearings then the next day the seal busted and started pouring.Could the grease been the problem?Could it have caused anymore problems?
Not sure it would cause a seal to push out but you don't pack them with grease like some wheel bearings. I put some Lucas on them before install so they don't start dry but the grease from the rear end will lube them.
Hey mossman, my 03 duramax is pulling to the right pretty bad recently, can you point me in the right direction of what might need replaced before I get it aligned? Thanks
Thanks man, I'm subbed so if you find and fix your dads truck I'll know. I remember you fixing a steering box before. Is a steering box problem something that an alignment garage will be able to diagnose easily? I won't bug you anymore, thanks.
You would think an alignment guy would know what a bad steering box feels like but these days I can't find anybody working anywhere that seems to know anything. We have tried to get dads truck aligned 3 or 4 times now. Every time they say one part is bad and it needs to be replaced and charge $40 for putting it on the machine. They even told us that one of our new upper ball joints were bad. A brand new Moog ball joint is bad????? Honestly I don't trust them anymore. I am going to do my own alignment with string off the back tires from now on. I will use an angle gauge to adjust camber. I did Midnight that way and everything feels good and tires look like they are wearing good.
I showed how I did the string method at the end of the final lift kit install video. I haven't shown using the angle gauge. I will see if I can get some video when I do dads truck.
I like to coat mine with Lucas so they don't start dry. Have you checked your axle fluid? If you don't have enough fluid it won't make it to the outer bearings. And like I said driving in circles after install will force oil to them. Did you over tighten the nut? That could hurt your bearings.
The smaller outer bearing had oil. I changed the oil in pumpkin when I did the wheel seals and shoes. Took three quarts. The nut preload was set using a flat head and hammer. Cuz I didn't have the proper socket.
In this day and age why are pick-ups still using this antiquated rear suspension? I mean they still use a leaf spring suspension. Considering how much these trucks cost.
This truck was probably around $32k new. They are easily double that now. The leaf spring suspension is proven to work and last a long time. Considering this truck has over 260k miles I think they did a good job engineering it. Dad has over 300k miles on his 04.
Why make it more complicated? That would make it more expensive and more moving parts to wear out. Trucks haven't changed all that much. The front suspensions on the 1500's have changed but that's about it. They are adding computers, heated and cooled seats and better interior fit and finish. I don't like all the technology they are adding to the new trucks. I can check my own air pressure. I don't want to be told when my doors and hood are open. I know when they are open. So much wasted tech.
there is no need for a suspension that would corner better at speed. And this is much better at carrying loads without accumulating slack in many many parts. With all the money in the shipping industry you'd see independant suspension on big heavy truck if it had advantage and no drawbacks.
The full floating axle and leaf spring is a heavy duty design that doesn't wear out in 100,000 miles and can actually be serviced when needed. You little boys can run the coil springs on your 1/2 ton grocery getter with air conditioned seats, wood grain trim, and carpet that you want to have ride like a car... The coil spring rears are a step back into the 1960s. I'll keep my 3/4 ton with manual transfer case, manual locking hubs, manual transmission, insulated vinyl floor covering, leaf springs front and back, and full floating rear axle. It won't be used up in 200,000 miles.
If you put Lucas on them before installing they are not dry. Once the diff starts moving the fluid will flow everywhere. Driving in circles will just help move the fluid to the sides.
I feel that just wastes time telling people to jack it up and take the tires off. That should be obvious and simple if you are capable of doing this repair.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Things that might help with a project like this:
Rear Axle Seal: amzn.to/2CR2Q3N
Spindle Nut Socket: amzn.to/2CMRHRE
Gallon Lucas: amzn.to/2MCFpQf
This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Any thoughts on news bearings?
Great vid. As a heavy duty mechanic I would have suggested pre fill the hub with gear oil before pushing it all the way on the axle stub. One other way to get oil to that hub is to jack up the other side so the oil runs into the hub you just had off
Thanks, I coated my bearings with Lucas before install. Never thought about jacking one side up but it's a good idea.
Prefill and change out the 8 hole gasket, they're only a couple bucks.
I’ve watched several of these rear axle seal replacement videos on RUclips and this is by far the best one! Thanks!!
Awesome, I pretty much already knew how to do this but, I am glad that I searched for a video and saw this one.
This guy is a pro and the video is great because it's all business no bullshit and fluff.
Probably the only person I have subscribed to on here.
I just got myself an 01' 2500HD extended cab last week. Traded a KZ1000 for it. I got a leaky seal so thank you for this video, doesnt look like too big of a pain.
It's a pretty easy job with a floating axle.
Just finished my 2005 2500 hd 10.5
I should have watched the video again before I started. I forgot the gear before putting on the seal. Had to get another one. The original seal on mine is now different as I found out. All of this was on the video but I forgot. Very good video and something you can do with patients. Thanks again for showing me how.
Thanks for posting this video; I recently ran into an issue where I broke off two wheel studs when rotating my tires, and this process helped my light bulb come on for the hub removal/re-install process.
Thank you, I just noticed my passenger side leaking after pulling my rotors off to have them turned. I was dreading the idea of tearing this apart but you made it look pretty simple. I just called O'Reilly's they have all the parts in stock I'm attacking it tomorrow
This video will help a lot of people. Nice job with the steps involved.
Thanks
Great job, very helpful to the first timers. Thank You!
Haha! My right one was leaking after I had to replace my parking brake shoes, and i replaced it, left was pefectly fine, until I drove from Illinois (where I live) to Phoenix AZ. Now left is leaking after being perfect all this time. SOL but, got some tools and a new seal. Bout to do this in a parking lot
Edit: Got it done in a few hours. God bless autozone for letting me loiter in their parking lot to fix it. On the road again, thank ye
I had a shop in Georgia change the right rear axle seal on my 2013 Chevy 2500 hd and it was like being tortured watching the guy.
He didn't have a spindle nut wrench or socket and he went to look for one and I took the retaining clip off and key way out and got the nut off before he returned.
We struggled to get the hub off and seal broke and half of it stayed on the shaft. Got it all apart and there wasn't any damage to the shaft or bearings thank God.
During this whole process I was calling everywhere trying to find a spindle nut socket with no luck.
Got it all back together and I'm hoping for the best even though there's some brake noise from the pads for some reason.
I was only in town to pick up a cargo trailer to deliver to a customer in Mississippi and I'll be keeping a really close eye on it to make sure it doesn't start heating up or anything.
Not exactly a nightmare but, I never like it when a shop has that many problems with such a relatively easy job.
Doesn't sound like a very good shop. Hope your repair holds up.
@@mossman381
Thanks, me too. I made the trip to Mississippi ok and checked it quite a few times when I first started and nothing was heating up. It was the right rear axle seal and when I turn left it makes a noise still. I was hoping it was just something on the pad that needed to wear off but I think something is out of alignment. Maybe the parking brake ? I don't know. Might have to take it apart and check it out.
If I weren't pressed for time I was going to buy the couple of tools that I needed and just do it myself in a parking lot somewhere beside an auto parts store.
Thank you for taking the time to make this practical video.
Great video, thank you! I love when the work is actually done, instead of just talking about it. Your video helped me show a customer what was broke in his truck, and may have saved his life because he didn't realize the axle shaft and the plate were one piece, and he was still driving it. We got him taken care of, thank you so much for the awesome video! -parts girl
Glad to help.
I just replaced my seal. I didn't have any seal or rtv where my axle bolts to the hub and it didn't leak. Also, it's safe to say it was worked on before. The original seal was a different style than what yours had and the replacement was actually identical to the one on yours that was leaking. Also, yes. The nut was way too tight when you took it apart. Great video!
I like your drain pan in this video. Good idea!!
Agreed. One of those things you see and think "wow I wish I thought if that a LOOONG time ago"
Thank you! Just done it on my Duramax, easy with this video.
Thanks for the upload it helped me out a lot
Video was so good you heard nothing but crickets!
Great video, I use a small piece of 2x6 to drive the seal on.
I had to remove the visor on my 03 duramax because whoever installed it used one screw that wasn't stainless and it finally started leaking, so I had to fix it. IDK how much the shipping cost would be but I'm not going to put it back on, so you could have it for free if you want it for you or your dads truck. You've helped me a ton and I appreciate it.
Glad to help. I don't really like the visors. Thanks anyway.
Great job and commentary
Excellent video keep up the good work
Super helpful! Finished mine in a matter of minutes after renting the socket and torque wrench
Where did you rent the socket and torque wrench?
@@OsmanParvez
Oreilly Auto Parts or Autozone style places usually let you borrow them for a job.
Great video im just doing the rear on my 3500 duramax
Thank you for the excellent video. I have a 1993 CK 3500. I'm not sure what type of Axle I have.
I don't think it is floating but I will find out when I get the tires off. Thanks again.
I am pretty sure you will have a floating axle but it will have drum brakes. That changes a few things.
@@mossman381 I've never done this before so if you have any advice I would appreciate
it. I live in a very small town and I haven't found anyone who knows how. If I need the
special socket if I can't rent it I will purchase it. I will start on it when it gets warmer.
I really appreciate you replying.
Chunk of 4x4 works well for large seals like that to drive them straight
Very helpful ,have one in the shop and doing it my first time was concerned when the seal stayed on the tube and the bearing was all loose in the hub!
Thanks for clearing my head 👍
Nice, the torquing sequence will help me later when I do my SAS and get my 99-10 AMM 14 bolt. Found some cheap enough recently,.
Glad to help.
Tap the seal in with a piece of wood
Did you have to drain any gear fluid before replacing the seal? im about to do mine and that is the only thing im unsure of. not sure if ill get a release and what to replace it with yet.
A little comes out. Not enough to worry about but I’d definitely have some extra gear oil on hand and check level when you’re done.
Are you supposed to lubricate the inner seal before you install it? Or does it not matter?
Iinteresting didnt know they bearing are sitting in oil bath. I would have very lightly packed that bearing and then drove it and changed diff fluid but thats just personal preference. Nice video.
You don't pack oil bath bearings. I will coat them with Lucas so they aren't dry before reassembly.
...so at 9:16 you say "got the seal lubed up a little bit" - does that mean the seal get's grease or something to help it slide onto the spindle? - As I understand it is a two-piece seal (the actual 'seal' being inside the two-piece design and not like an old school one-piece type that seal against the spindle itself) and I've read that the seal is supposed to slide on 'dry', making a tight seal to the spindle. Are you saying it is supposed to be lubed?
Great work buddy 👍👍
Have a daully used an extra spindle nut to keep the key way in instead of the stupid c clip fits just right against the axle flange , new specs call for around 50 ish pounds for the spindle nut , one prob I think is the 2 part seal and the new seal , I think it’s not correctly made to take up the horizontal “ play “ ??
Use your old seal to drive it in
You are right, it WAS too tight. Might be why that seal didn't last. Did rear brakes recently so took both off. It's never that tight
Full floater, not semi. Nice Job.👍
I said it wrong in the video but the title is correct.
Good video. Thanks.
no C clip on axle in diff? i assume this is a limited slip differential
@@bradleystevens2956 No clip on a floating axle. The bolts on the outside hold the axle.
Looking good!
Thanks Rick.
Is axle shaft seal suppose to sit flat with emergency brake? And do you pack bearings with grease?
well done , it didn't look like the axle to hub had any sealant , did you notice any.
There was a gasket and a very small amount of rtv. I just used sealant and no gasket. Did the same thing on the dually with no problems.
need limited slip additive ? how can i tell if i need it. visual signs if any .i know its 14 bolt 11.5 full floating duel wheel axle not original from junk yard is all i know for sure now on a 07 ram 3500 diesel 4x4 duelly HD?
Are the bearings and the seal the same for the 10.5” and 11.5”?
I’m in sweden and hard to find parts over here, if so i need to order from the states! And really don’t now what bearing i should buy then
I didn't replace the bearings so I am not sure.
Never use your hand as a hammer. Something a wise old mechanic once said to me I'm guilty as charged.
What size axle nut socket did you use
Pry bar behind the hub, or even a screwdriver pops it right off
Any pointers I did this job last Friday and put new caliper on my truck as well and I’ve noticed today either my new caliper is sticking or my hub but is to tight but I torqued it to 50 ft pounds and backed it off a quarter turn and put the keeper back in. Hub turns freaked but noticed it’s smoking
Check to make sure your brake rotor isn't hitting the brake shield. I had new rotors do that one time and everything turned great until I torqued down my wheels. Had to turn down the brake rotors but I think the rotors were made wrong.
Jack one side up the the other if you can't find a little hill to sidle both directions.
Are the differential vents hard to diagnose and make sure they are venting? 6.6L Duramax
I have never heard of them plugging up. You have a reason you think it's plugged?
mossman381
I have read all over the internet and RUclips that they get plugged and then blow the axle seals. Wanting to do some Pre-maintenance before this happens. Truck is new to me. 2006 Duramax
I did both sides on my dually. One side on dads 04 awhile ago and one side on my 02. Seals get old and fail. I would have to see all these plugged vent lines. If you are worried you would have to pull the diff cover and blow out the vent hose. I really don't know how the vent would get plugged.
Was the axle nut socket for 2002 gmc a 6 point ?
Can't say that I remember.
do you have to lubricate the rubber side of the new hub seal before re-installing the hub onto the spindle, or does it just go on 'dry'?
I have heard the seals are installed dry.
That seal is a two piece design so it doesn’t actually move on the spindle surface. It is fixed on the spindle and inside the hub. It is important to tighten the bearing nut first to something like 100 lb/ft and then back it off to seat the seal on the spindle and when you back it off you provide clearance between the moving parts of the seal.
@@thebrushhawg I would recommend checking the inner and outer bearing and their seating in the race of each. I replaced my axle seal last summer and it failed in the winter. The inner bearing, on my 2004 GMC 2500 4*4, must have been improperly seated or just plain bad. It was very lose on the second seal replacement job, which is likely why it failed in the winter.
I have replaced 2 bearings and races and another seal and all the brake shoes again. I gave the hub a good smack on a 2*4 and then torqued it to 100lbs. I then backed it off, until I got a good position for the key installation. NO LEAKS! :) I also drained the rear differential again and filled again with synthetic 75w 90 Castrol gear oil. BG :)
@@BrianGallagherSylvanLk did the bearings being bad cause your abs light on and where did you find the bearings as every auto parts store I've checked are trying to sell me them and in the description of them it says for a 10.5" and I thought duramaxs are 11.5" axle I have a 2007.5 gmc sierra duramax lmm
@@thugthuggin69 I was doing the seals and it was apart so I did the bearings at the same time. The seal failed because it wasn't fully seated to axle
I have a dully, 2002 does this apply for a dully also?
should I repack the bearing with wheel bearing grease?
Thanks for sharing this video. I never had a press, did I used a vise. Don't know is that is acceptable, but I may have just been 🍀 lucky 😃
No press needed to do this repair. A big set of seal drivers would be a good idea.
Excellent, thanks.
When I did mine after the 50 pound torque and quarter turn back the hub would not spin at all? I had to loosen the nut back and tighten by hand. Hope it works
I had the same trouble when I did my dads Duramax. He has put a lot of miles on his and no issues so far.
No more dually?
That's exactly what happened to me this spring. Went to put my nice wheels on then it turned into a brake job then I found I had a bad seal
A leaking wheel seal is hard to see. It's not a hard job but you don't want the bearing too tight. It looked like someone had this nut too tight. I am thinking I should check the other side to make sure.
mossman381 that was the first time touching one on my truck since 2003
They don't go out very often. I had one on the dually start leaking. I changed that out before I was on RUclips.
If anybody else ends up in the situation I would recommend replacing the emergency brakes you don't want to clean them don't ever be clean like they need to be replaced them
Not sure I have ever used my parking brake on any 99-07 truck I have had. With an auto trans and park, it's almost never needed.
Is this truck 4x4 or 2wd? Is there a difference for socket I should use? Because all the spindle sockets I found were for front or 4x4
This truck is a 4x4. There will be no difference in the rear axle of a 4wd and 2wd truck. Probably have to do some checking online to find the parts you need for your truck.
So I let someone do my rear axle seal and I noticed they used grease on my bearings then the next day the seal busted and started pouring.Could the grease been the problem?Could it have caused anymore problems?
Not sure it would cause a seal to push out but you don't pack them with grease like some wheel bearings. I put some Lucas on them before install so they don't start dry but the grease from the rear end will lube them.
Will this work on a 2008?
Hey mossman, my 03 duramax is pulling to the right pretty bad recently, can you point me in the right direction of what might need replaced before I get it aligned? Thanks
Dads 04 is doing the same thing. I think it's the steering box but not positive.
Thanks man, I'm subbed so if you find and fix your dads truck I'll know. I remember you fixing a steering box before. Is a steering box problem something that an alignment garage will be able to diagnose easily? I won't bug you anymore, thanks.
You would think an alignment guy would know what a bad steering box feels like but these days I can't find anybody working anywhere that seems to know anything. We have tried to get dads truck aligned 3 or 4 times now. Every time they say one part is bad and it needs to be replaced and charge $40 for putting it on the machine. They even told us that one of our new upper ball joints were bad. A brand new Moog ball joint is bad????? Honestly I don't trust them anymore. I am going to do my own alignment with string off the back tires from now on. I will use an angle gauge to adjust camber. I did Midnight that way and everything feels good and tires look like they are wearing good.
Thanks again, when you do the string alignment, please please do a video, you've saved me a bunch of money and hassle with your how to videos.
I showed how I did the string method at the end of the final lift kit install video. I haven't shown using the angle gauge. I will see if I can get some video when I do dads truck.
My bearings I installed dry. And no oil ever made it to the bearings through the axel shaft. Bearings are now shavings....Smh
I like to coat mine with Lucas so they don't start dry. Have you checked your axle fluid? If you don't have enough fluid it won't make it to the outer bearings. And like I said driving in circles after install will force oil to them. Did you over tighten the nut? That could hurt your bearings.
The smaller outer bearing had oil. I changed the oil in pumpkin when I did the wheel seals and shoes. Took three quarts. The nut preload was set using a flat head and hammer. Cuz I didn't have the proper socket.
Factory service manual says to pack bearings with grease. It will just mix with oil and be fine
Thanks.
52ft lbs and a 1/4 turn off and Im still really tight and the hub does not spin freely. Brand new seals. 2005 Chevrolet 2500 DMAX.
50 ft lbs i meant
Although by other sources im told 52
Where did you get socket at
We already had a socket.
Perfect 🇺🇸
You called that a semi floating axle. That there is a full float!
I thought in a full float, the axle shaft splines into the hub axle cap thing rather than the cap being part of the axle shaft forging
What year is that truck?
BUDDY LIGHT 2002 from the description. 👍
Yes, 2002. I also said it in the beginning of the video.
Shouldn't use your torque wrench to loosen it back up.
I know but the torque wasn't that high. I would never break loose lug nuts or something like that with it.
In this day and age why are pick-ups still using this antiquated rear suspension? I mean they still use a leaf spring suspension. Considering how much these trucks cost.
This truck was probably around $32k new. They are easily double that now. The leaf spring suspension is proven to work and last a long time. Considering this truck has over 260k miles I think they did a good job engineering it. Dad has over 300k miles on his 04.
mossman381 I know but like I said trucks have become much more modern, the rear suspension not so much. You sound like Ford with the Model T.
Why make it more complicated? That would make it more expensive and more moving parts to wear out. Trucks haven't changed all that much. The front suspensions on the 1500's have changed but that's about it. They are adding computers, heated and cooled seats and better interior fit and finish. I don't like all the technology they are adding to the new trucks. I can check my own air pressure. I don't want to be told when my doors and hood are open. I know when they are open. So much wasted tech.
there is no need for a suspension that would corner better at speed. And this is much better at carrying loads without accumulating slack in many many parts. With all the money in the shipping industry you'd see independant suspension on big heavy truck if it had advantage and no drawbacks.
The full floating axle and leaf spring is a heavy duty design that doesn't wear out in 100,000 miles and can actually be serviced when needed.
You little boys can run the coil springs on your 1/2 ton grocery getter with air conditioned seats, wood grain trim, and carpet that you want to have ride like a car... The coil spring rears are a step back into the 1960s. I'll keep my 3/4 ton with manual transfer case, manual locking hubs, manual transmission, insulated vinyl floor covering, leaf springs front and back, and full floating rear axle. It won't be used up in 200,000 miles.
How much oil actually comes out? You cut that part of the video out...
Not a lot.
Dude! Stomp the shit outta that damn cricket.
They can hide pretty good.
Lol driving in circles. God I would like to see that. Why not lift the truck one side to the other so your not dry running them as much.
If you put Lucas on them before installing they are not dry. Once the diff starts moving the fluid will flow everywhere. Driving in circles will just help move the fluid to the sides.
Splitting hairs i know, but it's a full floating axle, not semi floating. 😏💇
First thing you do is jack it up.
I feel that just wastes time telling people to jack it up and take the tires off. That should be obvious and simple if you are capable of doing this repair.