thank you, I had a great laugh at your vests choices, again. and also due to the entertaining content. Can one realy blame crazy on someone else, if one feels it so bad, It's probably in one's head too .
@@joelnichols9055 Are you suggesting plastic pedals are going to be less cold through my boots than alu? I feel you'd have to wear pretty thin soles for it to be noticeable.
I'm afraid I have to give a very German answer here: with mountain bike flat bars that are over 70 or 80 cm wide, the damping actually makes a difference compared to the aluminum handlebars. Provided, of course, that the flatbar is designed to be flexible enough to flex at all and not as stiff as a solid steel tube. Coming back to drop bars, you can actually say that the wider they are, the more comfortable they are - simply because the lever for the suspension is much wider. The longer the lever, the more flex - in the end, even a railroad track will be sagging if it's long enough. And now I've somehow lost the thread. But I ride carbon. And please keep on with your tests. I like it a lot!
Alloy takes away the anxiety of needing to tighten your stem face plate bolts to the specified torque. Very overlooked pain in the ass with carbon. In my opinion
I had the same dilemma on my last build, ironically with the same bars. But regardless of the cost, the longevity of the alloy on a "daily driver" and weekend bikepacking rig made clear sense. Bike falls over and clips a curb or awkwardly placed rock - have no fear. Adding/removing aero bars all the time also worry free. Some carbon bar warranties are void if add aero bars.
One thing to note about carbon bars. Few of them are certified for use of clip-on aero bars (TT bars) and the ones that are tend to be a lot more expensive.
@@qfudgedoggy you can make your own with a 2nd stem on top of your main one & a short section of 32mm aluminium tube. Difficulty is finding the space to install a second stem at the top of your steerer. But there are some low stack height stems out there.
just retired an aluminum frame with a cracked chainstay. did try to braze it, but the aluminum was too thin. got 150000km out of it, road and mixed terrain riding
@ it was a Neuvation ( John Neugent’s) house brand fabricated in Taiwan. It was everything a good road bike should be. The crack was radial, near the bottom bracket and more than 50% around.
I appreciate the amount of faffing that you had to do to make this video. Also, I completely agree about the emotional response to “feeling” the difference, and that perception is a key component. I have plenty of bikes but only one is carbon from top to toe and I feel like the mutts nuts when I ride it, even though I know I’m not
My hot take (or rather small pet peeve) is that alloy does not equal aluminum. Steel is an alloy too! I think Big Al used alloy as a marketing term cause it sounds cool. Anyways thanks for the comparison. Do seat posts next!
As someone with a degree in welding technology….. I agree. (Nickel) alloy handles could cost thousands of dollars and weigh more than Carbon. Alloy is intentionally used for its ambiguity.
Fully integrated cockpits are the pits! I can live with internal, downtube routing for brakes and shifters. But I need flexibility around the bars, for adjustments, part swaps and travel. Cheers
Carbon can be formed into more shapes than alloy. That can be good or bad depending on your personal fit. If special and slight weight savings is your thing, go for carbon. If you are bikepacking and headed into the deep, backcountry you may wish to look at alloy. Strong if you happen to dump your heavy bike and don’t want a broken bar to contend with.
@davehoover8853 the idea that carbon can take more complex shapes than metal(of any kind) is proven untrue by 3d printing tech. 3d printing is far more exact than the human error involved in carbon layup and the shapes metal can be printed in are becoming limitless.
I was doored by a car on my carbon frame bike and it split the frame nearly in half and absorbed a lot of the impact into the carbon. I flew on my back but ended up being okay. I think I would have been far more seriously injured on my titanium bike because it would not have crumpled and I would have taken a lot more of a beating. It's not always a good thing depending on the type of crash to have a very durable frame. It's the same reason that automobiles have crumple zones.
@@MikeMPharmaCyclistfair point, but have to admit my Titanium just rides sweet and won’t buy based on an accident like that. But it is a fair point. I do a lot of bike packing and carbon issues seem to happen at every event I go to and never see any with metal of any significance. Stay safe out there.
One additional thing to consider: the way both materials fail are different. Aluminium usually just bends, Carbon cracks and looses lots of its integrity in this
Ok, so the concept of good enough is just good enough is absolutely true. Most of us will never race or ride professionally where a difference would be noticed. Most of the time alloy is good enough for what it's for. That's having a good time on a bike. However, I did find a carbon handlebar/stem combo from Bontrager for $200 and it saved 250 gr. off the Tom Ritchey alloy stem and handlebar that came on the bike. That's half a pound and that kinda matters. Truth is that I can't really feel a difference BUT they're sexy as hell and I simply love them. To your point, they do make me feel warm and fuzzy. The next 100 mile ride that I do might be faster and a little more comfortable but I still love the things just for there looks. Is it worth it? Debatable.
"Truth is that I can't really feel a difference BUT they're sexy as hell and I simply love them. To your point, they do make me feel warm and fuzzy. The next 100 mile ride that I do might be faster and a little more comfortable but I still love the things just for there looks. Is it worth it?" Same "logic" back-in-the-day with Spinergy Rev-X. Despite so many of them shattering into pieces I had a customer insist on a replacement pair when the alloy rim separated from the carbon. When asked if he would keep riding them until one exploded and injured him, I got "the look". Then there were the titanium stems..and the CNC'd aluminum seatposts... it was time to get the f__k out of bike retail for me!
I picked up some carbon riser bars for my commuter. I’ve always had alloy bars for the past 35 years. I really like the carbon feel, just a slight flex and dampening of the vibrations. For me, they are money well spent, and the torque wrench to properly tighten was worth buying too
I had a rigid MTB back in the day that I put a set of carbon bars on, they gave the ride a subtle muted quality. These days, I'm extremely judicious about where I spend money on bike parts. Carbon bars are among the worst uses of money on a bike.
Let’s do the math! Carbon fiber is a petroleum product, AL is mined, processed and the bars manufactured using petroleum products throughout… where’s the environmental savings???
@@DaneKromer Al is recyclable, that's the main difference. (and is one of the few materials that is actually recycled in practice) CF once its trash is going to be in a landfill for centuries.
Alu is recyclable? I mean your right, more energy goes into mining and refining but once it's out it's nearly possible to melt down an old alu bar and remold it into a new.
I've ridden both before on MTB, but honestly I couldn't tell you a massive difference. Certain carbon bars have *slightly* more flex, but you can also achieve that with 31.8 aluminum bars (or the vibracore bars that have foam inside). I saw a Seth's bike hacks video many years ago of his friend crashing and getting stabbed with the snapped carbon bar end, which has kinda spooked me from riding them ever since. Honestly ride whichever you prefer! I'm glad to save a little money and not worry too much about marginal vibration damping (tires and wheels probably make a bigger difference in these areas anyway).
For real, one of my friends snapped not just his Whisky No.7 seat-post during normal pavement riding, even though it was trail rated. Unlike some of their bars, these were not subject to recall and he installed it with a torque wrench. It cracked diagonally towards the top, razor sharp edge, could have sent him to the ER if things shook out different.
Ritchey Corralitos Comp 50s good enough for me on the roadish bike. Short drop, short reach and they are wide. Now spend a lot more time in the drops and it's fun.
I’m running: Joseph Kuosac Handlebar for Bromptons - Mid Rise - 25.4mm Clamp - Silver. Originally, 600mm wide but cut to 560mm, oh and they’re aluminium. Love your creativity input & music choices ❤
Aluminum cowchippers here. The only difference I’ve noticed from carbon bars is a lot less anxiety about failure. I know carbon bars are strong, but my irrational brain trusts the metal.
I would love to see two whole bikes set up (frame + finishing kit) where one is carbon and one is not like with the handlebars in this video but extended to the whole bike. I think it would be interesting to see the difference.
I just sold my first bike on buycycle (based on the recommendation of this channel) and I have to say, it was shockingly easy. I will definitely do it again. Also, love me some Forrest Park.
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 Ah, that side of the experience I cannot speak to. Sorry you had a bad one. Nothing like a sucky transaction to ruin a good time.
If you're an athlete, trained to the max, competing against others who ride the sponsored very best they can get, it makes sense to grab even the small margins at the diminishing returns end of the spectrum. And rich people can just throw money at fancy stuff for the bragging rights. But for most people carbon for this part is going to be a waste of money and resources.
Speaking of cold. Aluminum will definitely remove heat from your hands way faster than carbon. I really notice the effect from my brake levers since they are not covered by bar tape. Thanks for the great video!!😎👍🏻
FWIW I replaced the 4 year old aluminum bar on my mass market German bike with a cheap carbon bar and it was a notable improvement. The dampening effect was definitely noticeable on chattery sections and I was able to ride them faster and with more comfort, no question.
I have 42cm Ritchey Ergomax Comps on my Norco Search XR Steel. Got them for like $45 and love them. I like the slight rise & backsweep plus the more flat tops. Tough to beat around $50
I was really surprised by your results and feel like it depends a lot on different factors. For example, I commute to work by a road/endurance bike. My old bike had 28mm tires, tubes (so higher pressure) and the only carbon part (from stock) was the fork. Changing the seat post from aluminum to a really cheap "china" seatpost from amazon, made out of carbon made a really big difference in comfort immediately. Maybe it depends on what's your staring point is. The more "damp" your bike already is (tubeless, Big Tires, Carbonwheels, amount of spokes etc.) the less value you get from certain carbon parts. I'am not a scientist, but I could also see one reason, why it Made a bigger difference in my case, that most of my weight is sitting on the saddle, compared to the handlebars.
Crit racing, alloy all day. I've snapped carbon bars on sprints, and I've snapped carbon bars on collisions, couldn't finish the race. Never had this problem with aluminum. I run the ritchey 18 degree flared which is actually about 16 degree flared , 38cm hoods to 42cm drops.
Until recently, I also had the same Ritchey handlebar installed. I have to say that I initially found it quite comfortable. However, I noticed that when riding in the drops and holding the brakes for an extended period, the raised section presses quite strongly into the palm. My hands would regularly go numb with that handlebar.
The spirited cyclist :) With my gravel bikes I tend to go aluminum, road bikes mostly fancy carbon, depending on the build and purpose. I fall a lot more often on my gravel rides, hence the alu bars.
I am running alloy Cowchippers on my dropbarmtb and love them. I have actually stopped buying CF for frames or parts all the same. The cost to value just doesn't add up to me as a recreational rider.
Takes about 500g to feel a small difference when I was fit, sprint/climbs/efficiency etc. Also switched from cheap carbon to cheap alloy forks, couldn’t feel a difference. Tyre width/pressure/bar tapes made a real difference.
I am using VentureMax WCS Al (Two tape layer for cushioness, 52cm at bottom) and then some no name Aero carbon bars (only one tape layer, 42 or 44 cm) on my second gravel . Weight wise, does not matter much but I swear the carbon ones MUCH MORE comfy due flexibility and vibration absorbtion. I think the more pressure you use for your tires, the more differences you will feel riding.
On vibration damping, specifically, I doubt one can tell any difference off road; it's the low amplitude, high frequency road vibration that would be absorbed. Personally, I'm sticking with alloy drop bars for both cost and durability.
You can live 1,000 lives turning down single use plastics at every turn and it wouldn’t offset even 20 minutes of the plastic waste produced in a place like, say, the Changning District in Shanghai
I run the alloy venturemax on my soma buena vista. I love them, they’re so comfortable! Carbon wouldn’t be worth it for my heavyish steel frame, plus I avoid putting large chunks of plastic on my bike. I want it to feel sturdy-not ‘cheap’ and disposable
To add to the equasion...There's also two aloy versions of this bar. The cheaper one makes even more sense per dollar spent :) Its slightly heavier...but a LOT cheaper.
love those bars...sold them to buy the ergomax carbon...Expensive! but I found them on some obscure but legit German website for 50% off. But! internal routing for cables/brakelines mean more $ at the bike shop unless you are comfortable doing it yourself
Also, watch out for damage at metal-carbon interfaces. Much more particular about avoiding overtightening. Interface damage is the number one thing that kills or damages carbon frames and carbon parts are more vulnerable too.
I think as tires get fatter, the comfort advantages of carbon fiber become much less noticeable, since fat tires absorb so much of the harsh vibration to begin with. Beautifully made review, however I would be interested if you could tell the difference on a skinnier tire bike. All roads are not smooth, back in the day I noticed a huge difference when I went from Italian steel to carbon fiber. Some road imperfections that would completely catch me off guard on my steel bike were hardly noticeable with my carbon fiber bike. But this was also a time when everyone was running very skinny tires compared to today.
It was necessary to test and compare on the aluminum frame and fork and the difference would be much more noticeable, since the carbon frameset has already extinguished most of the vibrations that do not reach the handlebar
On my full squish trail bike, I swapped the One Up carbon 20mm rise bars for the same bars in aluminum and 35mm rise, I did notice a little more vibration with the aluminum after a full day of riding, but it wasn't a big difference.
FSA Wing Pro Compact has to be one of my favorite bar shapes ever. Never had an issue with the alloy. On a race bike I’d probably go for integrated + aero carbon, but elsewhere? Like, whatever man. Whatever is cheap and decent.
The all-cardboard recycle-friendly packaging brings attention to the eco-friendly creds of these bars. 100% totally recyclable alloy versus 100% totally polluting carbon. Ive got Richey alloy bars and they are excellent. Am I missing out on carbon bars? No. But I have upgraded my rear mech with the money I saved and I DO notice that.
I don't like the modern gravel style gravel bars. I've spent an entire 40 years on road bars. After 1000 miles putting up with the rediculous flare pushing my elbows out, I bent them square. Another 1000 miles later, I ditched the 48mm bars for 42mm road bars. Wide bars feel sluggish and slow response even for my Adventure/ really road touring bike. Anatomical bars always looked hideous to me! Alloy only guy for aluminum bike. Carbon can be cracked much more easily, leaving you stranded. 80grams saved won't help much with loaded panniers! 105 kg rider.
I hope you recycled the aluminum bars you "bent square" so some poor guy didn't end up with them on his bike!!! I hate all that flare, sweep, rise, etc too so they get replaced with aluminum road handlebars with a decent bend, shape and drop.
$40 carbon gravel bars off AliExpress… I wasn’t sure they were gonna hold up or even feel that good but I’ve extremely happy with them after 2500ish miles
My thoughts on finishing kit is…. Buy the cheapest deda/fizik I can get my hands on, usually. But then my entire winter bike - a 105/ultegra equipped Fairlight Strael was a bargain basement parts bin special which cost me £650 to put together. An entire bike, or two handlebars? Hmm….
Thank you for this timely video Dustin. I have been thinking about swapping my alloy seatpost to the fancy carbon version that comes on the more higher end versions of my current ride. Now I'm not!
8:24 yes??? Because the thing (IMO) that can make the biggest difference in compliance and vibration dampening is the suppleness of tires. The whole bike is like a spring with variable compression rates and the tires (on a rigid bike) amount for the biggest factor when it comes to the “spring”. All other bits like handlebars, forks, seat posts and even frame material are marginal to the change you get from the tires themselves.
I have heard talk that Alloy bars will be a bit more comfortable on long rides. I was told this after buying a used bike with lots of upgraded carbon parts, brake calipers, cranks, etc but the bars and stem were alloy. What I'd don't get is why major brands have all decided that carbon bars cost at least $300.
Месяц назад
Nice video. I never noticed difference either. It's just fancier. You mention it in the end and it's the same as with the packaging: aluminium can be recycled endlessly and carbon fibre...well...that will just be another addition to a landfill somewhere in the future...
815 Yes you will be able to tell the difference on a road bike. And yes, it's going to be slight difference in dampening, specially if travelling on higher pressure tires (25, 23 mm or even narrower ones).
I have Bontrager Carbon bars with gel inserts on a GT Grade carbon elite. I figured with rear compliance it would be good to match the front. They won't expensive £90ish off Ebay. I suspect the compliance is marginal. Mind you we have very nobbly harsh tow paths. Gel inserts are good.
Yes Dustin, another emotive subject.!! With my background of motor vehicles and construction,I am aligned with the traditional materials for my choice,so I leave the plastic for TV and Audio equipment...just go with what you can afford and durability should be part of that decision as you pointed out I think you gonna be busy with this Blog
you totally miss the reason why people go carbon bars. if you're trying to bring your weight down to a certain number, say the UCI limit of 6.8kg for road bikes. then you HAVE to go carbon bars. you can reduce weight only so much per component so 85grams is HUGE. if you're just looking to change one part of the bike, 85g won't make a big difference. but if you're bringing down the weight below 7kg, every little bit you save per component matters critically.
Only matters to pro racers though. Which is the real big point. And you have to spend a LOT all over the bike to make that slight in total difference. Most of us could leave seva pound or two off our bodies. There are ways to do that and it keeps us more healthly. Like Bryan Johnson's low energy density diet.
I've got the aluminum version of these bars on my gravel rig and I absolutely love 'em. I blame the weight weenies for the whole everything has to be carbon thing. Sure, if you have a carbon fiber bike, you want everything to be carbon. However, I don't think carbon is such a wise choice for off road. Maybe I"m wrong on this, but I feel aluminum wheels and components are much safer and durable on sketchy terrain.
I ride Ritchey Beacons XL in aluminum. Can clamp aerobars on without having to worry about damaging the handelbar. I want to try narrower Venturmax next because they have less flare.
My opinion: If I were a professional racer the carbon would be worth the extra. Otherwise, use whatever makes you happiest. I recently picked up a 30 year old Tour Easy recumbent and a Schwinn Super LeTour 12.2. Both great classics, for different uses. There's room for multiple options in your life.
For bars, I'm definitely going with alloy, but those cheap aliexpress seatposts help me save about 100g compared to similarly priced alloy parts and that's where I'm going with carbon. Basically, it's all about comparing how many grams per buck you save.
I'm a total convert to carbon as a frame material but bars.... bars take a beating when you deck the bike, so i went alu when building my giant xtc advanced. Smart. 😂
I have beat the absolute shit out of my Enduro. Including watching it bounce down a 50' tall cliff (funny getting that back). All the carbon bits, including bars, are fine. I send that bike HARD.
Alloy bars do not last forever - if you are sweaty they can corrode under the bar tape. If you don’t crash them the carbon has a significantly longer lifespan. Carbon bars normally have more complicated shapes to enhance comfort. Most pros will run alloy bars - because when you crash them they are much more likely to be rideable afterwards…
totally made up. pros get free equipment because teams are sponsored. if you dont have sponsors paying for equipment THEN YOU'RE NOT A PRO.. that's a perk of being a pro. none of them care about stuff being rideable after a crash, teams will have many replacement bikes.
I have long thought that CF was overrated for recreational riding. Agree it's cool and makes your bike more "pro". I've been riding for almost sixty years. Steel, aluminum, carbon fiber. Haven't tried Ti however. Now riding aluminum and probably will stick with it. And definitely not dropping big $ on carbon bars or a seat post.
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thank you, I had a great laugh at your vests choices, again.
and also due to the entertaining content.
Can one realy blame crazy on someone else, if one feels it so bad, It's probably in one's head too .
@@EverythingsBeenDone Too late. I’m already subscribed for your informative content, careful, multi-shot cinematography, and quirky humor.
I’m miss “And the ride, by the numbers.” Anybody else?
Totally
Yep!
Yes !!
100%
yep
It's sort of a weird benefit, but I like carbon bars in the winter because they don't suck the heat away from your hands as quickly.
that's why I like carbon lever blades. Spent many winters freezing my fingers to alu lever blades.
I just got pogie lites. They’re a game changer for the winter since your hoods will stay insulated from the cold. Super warm.
Not weird at all...
Same goes for pedals btw.
@@joelnichols9055 Are you suggesting plastic pedals are going to be less cold through my boots than alu? I feel you'd have to wear pretty thin soles for it to be noticeable.
I'm afraid I have to give a very German answer here: with mountain bike flat bars that are over 70 or 80 cm wide, the damping actually makes a difference compared to the aluminum handlebars. Provided, of course, that the flatbar is designed to be flexible enough to flex at all and not as stiff as a solid steel tube. Coming back to drop bars, you can actually say that the wider they are, the more comfortable they are - simply because the lever for the suspension is much wider. The longer the lever, the more flex - in the end, even a railroad track will be sagging if it's long enough. And now I've somehow lost the thread. But I ride carbon.
And please keep on with your tests. I like it a lot!
Alloy takes away the anxiety of needing to tighten your stem face plate bolts to the specified torque. Very overlooked pain in the ass with carbon. In my opinion
torque wrench
It's not so hard
Dude I live for that level of OCD assembly.
I had the same dilemma on my last build, ironically with the same bars. But regardless of the cost, the longevity of the alloy on a "daily driver" and weekend bikepacking rig made clear sense. Bike falls over and clips a curb or awkwardly placed rock - have no fear. Adding/removing aero bars all the time also worry free. Some carbon bar warranties are void if add aero bars.
One thing to note about carbon bars. Few of them are certified for use of clip-on aero bars (TT bars) and the ones that are tend to be a lot more expensive.
Good point! I have the aluminum bar reviewed here and I slapped extensions on without actually checking if that's allowed. Thanks for the reminder😅
Fred bar.
If you're in it for distance comfort & not just aerodynamics you should be running a Fred bar anyway.
@@skyriminspace Thanks...never heard of it. I look into that one.
@@qfudgedoggy you can make your own with a 2nd stem on top of your main one & a short section of 32mm aluminium tube.
Difficulty is finding the space to install a second stem at the top of your steerer. But there are some low stack height stems out there.
just retired an aluminum frame with a cracked chainstay. did try to braze it, but the aluminum was too thin. got 150000km out of it, road and mixed terrain riding
you didn't recycle it!? GASP! (i am kidding, btw)
150k is ok for a car
The thin aluminium requires a repair with carbon, a bit weird with this video.... What brand was your frame?
@ it was a Neuvation ( John Neugent’s) house brand fabricated in Taiwan. It was everything a good road bike should be. The crack was radial, near the bottom bracket and more than 50% around.
7:28 DK walking up stairs rounding the corner was hella convincing. Kudos for the creativity!
I loved that move too, top class 😂👌
I appreciate the amount of faffing that you had to do to make this video. Also, I completely agree about the emotional response to “feeling” the difference, and that perception is a key component. I have plenty of bikes but only one is carbon from top to toe and I feel like the mutts nuts when I ride it, even though I know I’m not
My hot take (or rather small pet peeve) is that alloy does not equal aluminum. Steel is an alloy too! I think Big Al used alloy as a marketing term cause it sounds cool. Anyways thanks for the comparison. Do seat posts next!
Aluminum could be pure but steele is by definition an alloy.
And a lot of people forget about magnesium bikes too.
As someone with a degree in welding technology….. I agree. (Nickel) alloy handles could cost thousands of dollars and weigh more than Carbon. Alloy is intentionally used for its ambiguity.
@@MegaSpartan007 I would buy a VAAST if an A/1 frameset was available.
I honestly did not know this. Thank you
7:32 .... proceeds to walk "upstairs" like we wouldn't notice hahaha
Ergon gravel bar tape for actual damping…so amazing
Fully integrated cockpits are the pits!
I can live with internal, downtube routing for brakes and shifters.
But I need flexibility around the bars, for adjustments, part swaps and travel.
Cheers
I'm on the alloy Ritchey on my carbon Giant cyclecross bike. Love the bars. But I'm not obsessed with weight. Great video comparison Amigo!
I’m running aluminum Nitto noodle 48s on all my bikes. I’ve tried other bars, but this is my jam.
If your Noodles aren't 48s, idk wtf u're doing
noodles are the shit
"are you an alloy warrior or a carbon fiber... fill in the blank?" Fiend. Fiend is the word you're looking for
im deff a fiend
Alloy flat bars on all five of my bikes (two folders, two hybrids, and one hybridized steel roadie.) They work for me, period.
Carbon can be formed into more shapes than alloy. That can be good or bad depending on your personal fit. If special and slight weight savings is your thing, go for carbon. If you are bikepacking and headed into the deep, backcountry you may wish to look at alloy. Strong if you happen to dump your heavy bike and don’t want a broken bar to contend with.
@davehoover8853 the idea that carbon can take more complex shapes than metal(of any kind) is proven untrue by 3d printing tech. 3d printing is far more exact than the human error involved in carbon layup and the shapes metal can be printed in are becoming limitless.
Alloy. Richey has an even cheaper venturemax model that lacks the top aero grip. I rock the Corralitos which has an even more shallow drop. Chef kiss!
I have never snapped an allow bar. Can't say the same for carbon. The durability for me is always the winning argument.
I was doored by a car on my carbon frame bike and it split the frame nearly in half and absorbed a lot of the impact into the carbon. I flew on my back but ended up being okay.
I think I would have been far more seriously injured on my titanium bike because it would not have crumpled and I would have taken a lot more of a beating. It's not always a good thing depending on the type of crash to have a very durable frame.
It's the same reason that automobiles have crumple zones.
I have... catastrophic!
@@MikeMPharmaCyclistfair point, but have to admit my Titanium just rides sweet and won’t buy based on an accident like that. But it is a fair point. I do a lot of bike packing and carbon issues seem to happen at every event I go to and never see any with metal of any significance. Stay safe out there.
One additional thing to consider: the way both materials fail are different. Aluminium usually just bends, Carbon cracks and looses lots of its integrity in this
Ok, so the concept of good enough is just good enough is absolutely true. Most of us will never race or ride professionally where a difference would be noticed. Most of the time alloy is good enough for what it's for. That's having a good time on a bike. However, I did find a carbon handlebar/stem combo from Bontrager for $200 and it saved 250 gr. off the Tom Ritchey alloy stem and handlebar that came on the bike. That's half a pound and that kinda matters. Truth is that I can't really feel a difference BUT they're sexy as hell and I simply love them. To your point, they do make me feel warm and fuzzy. The next 100 mile ride that I do might be faster and a little more comfortable but I still love the things just for there looks. Is it worth it? Debatable.
"Truth is that I can't really feel a difference BUT they're sexy as hell and I simply love them. To your point, they do make me feel warm and fuzzy. The next 100 mile ride that I do might be faster and a little more comfortable but I still love the things just for there looks. Is it worth it?"
Same "logic" back-in-the-day with Spinergy Rev-X. Despite so many of them shattering into pieces I had a customer insist on a replacement pair when the alloy rim separated from the carbon. When asked if he would keep riding them until one exploded and injured him, I got "the look". Then there were the titanium stems..and the CNC'd aluminum seatposts... it was time to get the f__k out of bike retail for me!
I’m currently running the aluminum Velo Orange Granola Bars and couldn’t be happier.
I picked up some carbon riser bars for my commuter. I’ve always had alloy bars for the past 35 years. I really like the carbon feel, just a slight flex and dampening of the vibrations. For me, they are money well spent, and the torque wrench to properly tighten was worth buying too
When I feel road chatter in hands than I'd expect I immediate know pressure in tires is too high.
I had a rigid MTB back in the day that I put a set of carbon bars on, they gave the ride a subtle muted quality. These days, I'm extremely judicious about where I spend money on bike parts. Carbon bars are among the worst uses of money on a bike.
AL is slightly more environmentally friendly? No dude, AL is infinitely more environmentally friendly.
lol right?
Let’s do the math! Carbon fiber is a petroleum product, AL is mined, processed and the bars manufactured using petroleum products throughout… where’s the environmental savings???
@@DaneKromer Al is recyclable, that's the main difference. (and is one of the few materials that is actually recycled in practice)
CF once its trash is going to be in a landfill for centuries.
Alu is recyclable? I mean your right, more energy goes into mining and refining but once it's out it's nearly possible to melt down an old alu bar and remold it into a new.
@@DaneKromer Aluminium can be recycled nearly infinitely. Carbon is one use only.
Excellent comparison DK ! I’m All alloy , all the time !!
Thanks Chuck!
Alloy warrior. Ritchey on road and gravel, so comfortable. Then again, both the road and gravel bike are an alloy frame aswell.
I've ridden both before on MTB, but honestly I couldn't tell you a massive difference. Certain carbon bars have *slightly* more flex, but you can also achieve that with 31.8 aluminum bars (or the vibracore bars that have foam inside). I saw a Seth's bike hacks video many years ago of his friend crashing and getting stabbed with the snapped carbon bar end, which has kinda spooked me from riding them ever since.
Honestly ride whichever you prefer! I'm glad to save a little money and not worry too much about marginal vibration damping (tires and wheels probably make a bigger difference in these areas anyway).
For real, one of my friends snapped not just his Whisky No.7 seat-post during normal pavement riding, even though it was trail rated. Unlike some of their bars, these were not subject to recall and he installed it with a torque wrench. It cracked diagonally towards the top, razor sharp edge, could have sent him to the ER if things shook out different.
Ritchey Corralitos Comp 50s good enough for me on the roadish bike. Short drop, short reach and they are wide. Now spend a lot more time in the drops and it's fun.
I’m running: Joseph Kuosac Handlebar for Bromptons - Mid Rise - 25.4mm Clamp - Silver. Originally, 600mm wide but cut to 560mm, oh and they’re aluminium.
Love your creativity input & music choices ❤
Your bike collection is spectacular….the Wiilier and Salsas…omg…my vision blurs out with envy and disbelief 😂
Aluminum cowchippers here. The only difference I’ve noticed from carbon bars is a lot less anxiety about failure.
I know carbon bars are strong, but my irrational brain trusts the metal.
I would love to see two whole bikes set up (frame + finishing kit) where one is carbon and one is not like with the handlebars in this video but extended to the whole bike. I think it would be interesting to see the difference.
I just sold my first bike on buycycle (based on the recommendation of this channel) and I have to say, it was shockingly easy. I will definitely do it again. Also, love me some Forrest Park.
Buycycle might be good to SELL, but it sucks to BUY from them. Never again! How long before they tank?
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 Ah, that side of the experience I cannot speak to. Sorry you had a bad one. Nothing like a sucky transaction to ruin a good time.
I run the Ritchey Comp Venturmax. All the same features as the regular plus flat tops for aer... for comfort. Its nice on the hands.
If you're an athlete, trained to the max, competing against others who ride the sponsored very best they can get, it makes sense to grab even the small margins at the diminishing returns end of the spectrum.
And rich people can just throw money at fancy stuff for the bragging rights.
But for most people carbon for this part is going to be a waste of money and resources.
I have the first gen on my CX bike and second gen on my adventure bike. Both are aluminum . LOVE those bars. Especially second gen with the wide top.
STEEL is also alloy, dont use alloy as a short term for aluminum.
But carbon is not an alloy so for this comparison it is accurate enough...
Steel is also carbon
@@MsFinkxzSteel contains carbon (tiny percentage). It is mostly iron.
@@oerthling oh wow I had no idea
Alloy is two or more metals. Steel is iron mixed with carbon, so not an alloy
Speaking of cold. Aluminum will definitely remove heat from your hands way faster than carbon. I really notice the effect from my brake levers since they are not covered by bar tape.
Thanks for the great video!!😎👍🏻
Gloves?
@@DR_1_1 And pogies.
Just got some carbon Bullhorn bars, And I love the compliance over the rough Bay area roadways
You are so rad, running a Wahoo insert with the Coros Dura
Alloy is all I’ve known but have always wanted to try carbon. So this video will help
Me greatly.
🤜❤️🤛
FWIW I replaced the 4 year old aluminum bar on my mass market German bike with a cheap carbon bar and it was a notable improvement. The dampening effect was definitely noticeable on chattery sections and I was able to ride them faster and with more comfort, no question.
I have 42cm Ritchey Ergomax Comps on my Norco Search XR Steel. Got them for like $45 and love them. I like the slight rise & backsweep plus the more flat tops. Tough to beat around $50
you asked.....bars are as follows.....Nitto/Sim Works Little Nick--Crust/Nitto Shaka--RedShift Kitchen Sink--Crust Nullar--All Aluminum.
I was really surprised by your results and feel like it depends a lot on different factors. For example, I commute to work by a road/endurance bike.
My old bike had 28mm tires, tubes (so higher pressure) and the only carbon part (from stock) was the fork.
Changing the seat post from aluminum to a really cheap "china" seatpost from amazon, made out of carbon made a really big difference in comfort immediately.
Maybe it depends on what's your staring point is. The more "damp" your bike already is (tubeless, Big Tires, Carbonwheels, amount of spokes etc.) the less value you get from certain carbon parts. I'am not a scientist, but I could also see one reason, why it Made a bigger difference in my case, that most of my weight is sitting on the saddle, compared to the handlebars.
Crit racing, alloy all day. I've snapped carbon bars on sprints, and I've snapped carbon bars on collisions, couldn't finish the race. Never had this problem with aluminum. I run the ritchey 18 degree flared which is actually about 16 degree flared , 38cm hoods to 42cm drops.
Until recently, I also had the same Ritchey handlebar installed. I have to say that I initially found it quite comfortable. However, I noticed that when riding in the drops and holding the brakes for an extended period, the raised section presses quite strongly into the palm. My hands would regularly go numb with that handlebar.
32 mm tires + carbon handlebar + carbon stem is a dream combo.
The spirited cyclist :) With my gravel bikes I tend to go aluminum, road bikes mostly fancy carbon, depending on the build and purpose. I fall a lot more often on my gravel rides, hence the alu bars.
I am running alloy Cowchippers on my dropbarmtb and love them. I have actually stopped buying CF for frames or parts all the same. The cost to value just doesn't add up to me as a recreational rider.
Is that Mass Effect background music?
Alloy bars. Kitchen sink with all the fixin's. A sofa for my hands
Takes about 500g to feel a small difference when I was fit, sprint/climbs/efficiency etc. Also switched from cheap carbon to cheap alloy forks, couldn’t feel a difference. Tyre width/pressure/bar tapes made a real difference.
I am using VentureMax WCS Al (Two tape layer for cushioness, 52cm at bottom) and then some no name Aero carbon bars (only one tape layer, 42 or 44 cm) on my second gravel . Weight wise, does not matter much but I swear the carbon ones MUCH MORE comfy due flexibility and vibration absorbtion. I think the more pressure you use for your tires, the more differences you will feel riding.
Alyouminium - Loving your vids man
Mush respect! 🤜❤️🤛
Consider the Coefficient AR Handlebar. The shape of the "flats" of the bars is huge improvement in riding comfort.
On vibration damping, specifically, I doubt one can tell any difference off road; it's the low amplitude, high frequency road vibration that would be absorbed. Personally, I'm sticking with alloy drop bars for both cost and durability.
Certified scientist here. Important question, what glasses/shades are you riding in? They're epic.
should do the same for an identical frame such as Chekpoint SL vs ALR
This is an awesome idea! I'll see if I can figure out how to make this happen but I really like this one
I second this
Carbon is, ultimately, single use plastic - so that’s a no from here.
Just been searching to find someone commenting on the most important difference. Thank you.
I love my 2020 Scott Addict RC20 carbon
You can live 1,000 lives turning down single use plastics at every turn and it wouldn’t offset even 20 minutes of the plastic waste produced in a place like, say, the Changning District in Shanghai
Carbon fiber can be recycled through chemical digestion or pyrolysis. The organics can be recovered and down cycled or used to generate energy.
A point that I have been making every chance I get, thanks!
Running Redshift Kitchen Sinks, I dig em.
I run the alloy venturemax on my soma buena vista. I love them, they’re so comfortable! Carbon wouldn’t be worth it for my heavyish steel frame, plus I avoid putting large chunks of plastic on my bike. I want it to feel sturdy-not ‘cheap’ and disposable
I really wanted you to hit the bars with a wet sponge when you said 'dampening' 😄
To add to the equasion...There's also two aloy versions of this bar. The cheaper one makes even more sense per dollar spent :) Its slightly heavier...but a LOT cheaper.
love those bars...sold them to buy the ergomax carbon...Expensive! but I found them on some obscure but legit German website for 50% off. But! internal routing for cables/brakelines mean more $ at the bike shop unless you are comfortable doing it yourself
Also, watch out for damage at metal-carbon interfaces. Much more particular about avoiding overtightening. Interface damage is the number one thing that kills or damages carbon frames and carbon parts are more vulnerable too.
I think as tires get fatter, the comfort advantages of carbon fiber become much less noticeable, since fat tires absorb so much of the harsh vibration to begin with. Beautifully made review, however I would be interested if you could tell the difference on a skinnier tire bike. All roads are not smooth, back in the day I noticed a huge difference when I went from Italian steel to carbon fiber. Some road imperfections that would completely catch me off guard on my steel bike were hardly noticeable with my carbon fiber bike. But this was also a time when everyone was running very skinny tires compared to today.
It was necessary to test and compare on the aluminum frame and fork and the difference would be much more noticeable, since the carbon frameset has already extinguished most of the vibrations that do not reach the handlebar
On my full squish trail bike, I swapped the One Up carbon 20mm rise bars for the same bars in aluminum and 35mm rise, I did notice a little more vibration with the aluminum after a full day of riding, but it wasn't a big difference.
FSA Wing Pro Compact has to be one of my favorite bar shapes ever. Never had an issue with the alloy. On a race bike I’d probably go for integrated + aero carbon, but elsewhere? Like, whatever man. Whatever is cheap and decent.
The all-cardboard recycle-friendly packaging brings attention to the eco-friendly creds of these bars. 100% totally recyclable alloy versus 100% totally polluting carbon. Ive got Richey alloy bars and they are excellent. Am I missing out on carbon bars? No. But I have upgraded my rear mech with the money I saved and I DO notice that.
I don't like the modern gravel style gravel bars. I've spent an entire 40 years on road bars. After 1000 miles putting up with the rediculous flare pushing my elbows out, I bent them square. Another 1000 miles later, I ditched the 48mm bars for 42mm road bars. Wide bars feel sluggish and slow response even for my Adventure/ really road touring bike. Anatomical bars always looked hideous to me! Alloy only guy for aluminum bike. Carbon can be cracked much more easily, leaving you stranded. 80grams saved won't help much with loaded panniers! 105 kg rider.
I hope you recycled the aluminum bars you "bent square" so some poor guy didn't end up with them on his bike!!! I hate all that flare, sweep, rise, etc too so they get replaced with aluminum road handlebars with a decent bend, shape and drop.
$40 carbon gravel bars off AliExpress… I wasn’t sure they were gonna hold up or even feel that good but I’ve extremely happy with them after 2500ish miles
My thoughts on finishing kit is…. Buy the cheapest deda/fizik I can get my hands on, usually. But then my entire winter bike - a 105/ultegra equipped Fairlight Strael was a bargain basement parts bin special which cost me £650 to put together. An entire bike, or two handlebars? Hmm….
Thank you for this timely video Dustin. I have been thinking about swapping my alloy seatpost to the fancy carbon version that comes on the more higher end versions of my current ride. Now I'm not!
8:24 yes??? Because the thing (IMO) that can make the biggest difference in compliance and vibration dampening is the suppleness of tires. The whole bike is like a spring with variable compression rates and the tires (on a rigid bike) amount for the biggest factor when it comes to the “spring”. All other bits like handlebars, forks, seat posts and even frame material are marginal to the change you get from the tires themselves.
I have Venturemax Comp which are only about £40 and only slightly heavier - never felt the need to buy anything more expensive.
Got the same and they are just great....wish I'd gone for the 400 and not 420s but they are so comfy on the drops and hood angle is spot on.
Liking the Willy Wonka glasses! Nice video 👍
I have heard talk that Alloy bars will be a bit more comfortable on long rides.
I was told this after buying a used bike with lots of upgraded carbon parts, brake calipers, cranks, etc but the bars and stem were alloy.
What I'd don't get is why major brands have all decided that carbon bars cost at least $300.
Nice video. I never noticed difference either. It's just fancier. You mention it in the end and it's the same as with the packaging: aluminium can be recycled endlessly and carbon fibre...well...that will just be another addition to a landfill somewhere in the future...
815 Yes you will be able to tell the difference on a road bike. And yes, it's going to be slight difference in dampening, specially if travelling on higher pressure tires (25, 23 mm or even narrower ones).
I have Bontrager Carbon bars with gel inserts on a GT Grade carbon elite. I figured with rear compliance it would be good to match the front. They won't expensive £90ish off Ebay. I suspect the compliance is marginal. Mind you we have very nobbly harsh tow paths. Gel inserts are good.
wheels and seat post, those are the only parts on my adventure rig that are carbon.
And the bars I run are the widest model of the Dajia far bar.
Yes Dustin, another
emotive subject.!!
With my background of motor vehicles and construction,I am aligned with the traditional materials for my choice,so I leave the plastic for TV and Audio equipment...just go with what you can afford and durability should be part of that decision as you pointed out
I think you gonna be busy with this Blog
I think I just kicked the hornets nest...🫣
you totally miss the reason why people go carbon bars. if you're trying to bring your weight down to a certain number, say the UCI limit of 6.8kg for road bikes. then you HAVE to go carbon bars. you can reduce weight only so much per component so 85grams is HUGE. if you're just looking to change one part of the bike, 85g won't make a big difference. but if you're bringing down the weight below 7kg, every little bit you save per component matters critically.
Only matters to pro racers though. Which is the real big point. And you have to spend a LOT all over the bike to make that slight in total difference. Most of us could leave seva pound or two off our bodies. There are ways to do that and it keeps us more healthly. Like Bryan Johnson's low energy density diet.
bruh - it you are a pro racer and you are buying ritchey venture-max, what planet are you living upon??
Flatbar test next? with the width and hand position you would notice more?
I've got the aluminum version of these bars on my gravel rig and I absolutely love 'em. I blame the weight weenies for the whole everything has to be carbon thing. Sure, if you have a carbon fiber bike, you want everything to be carbon. However, I don't think carbon is such a wise choice for off road. Maybe I"m wrong on this, but I feel aluminum wheels and components are much safer and durable on sketchy terrain.
I ride Ritchey Beacons XL in aluminum. Can clamp aerobars on without having to worry about damaging the handelbar. I want to try narrower Venturmax next because they have less flare.
Cool! Can you do seat posts next please?
Carbon only on MTBs. The vibration reduction is crucial.
Never tried carbon on road.
6'6 , 225lbs.
My opinion: If I were a professional racer the carbon would be worth the extra. Otherwise, use whatever makes you happiest.
I recently picked up a 30 year old Tour Easy recumbent and a Schwinn Super LeTour 12.2. Both great classics, for different uses. There's room for multiple options in your life.
For bars, I'm definitely going with alloy, but those cheap aliexpress seatposts help me save about 100g compared to similarly priced alloy parts and that's where I'm going with carbon. Basically, it's all about comparing how many grams per buck you save.
I'm a total convert to carbon as a frame material but bars.... bars take a beating when you deck the bike, so i went alu when building my giant xtc advanced. Smart. 😂
I have beat the absolute shit out of my Enduro. Including watching it bounce down a 50' tall cliff (funny getting that back).
All the carbon bits, including bars, are fine.
I send that bike HARD.
Ritchey wcs components are the best and usually a first and final choice. Love Tom Ritchey
Alloy bars do not last forever - if you are sweaty they can corrode under the bar tape.
If you don’t crash them the carbon has a significantly longer lifespan.
Carbon bars normally have more complicated shapes to enhance comfort.
Most pros will run alloy bars - because when you crash them they are much more likely to be rideable afterwards…
totally made up. pros get free equipment because teams are sponsored. if you dont have sponsors paying for equipment THEN YOU'RE NOT A PRO.. that's a perk of being a pro. none of them care about stuff being rideable after a crash, teams will have many replacement bikes.
@@bulbangs I think the point about the bars surviving a crash was that you can actually finish the race on your bike.
I have long thought that CF was overrated for recreational riding. Agree it's cool and makes your bike more "pro". I've been riding for almost sixty years. Steel, aluminum, carbon fiber. Haven't tried Ti however. Now riding aluminum and probably will stick with it. And definitely not dropping big $ on carbon bars or a seat post.
Carbon bars are for dentists and professional racers
Im running redshift kitchen sink (no loop) its all about positions on long rides. More positions i can change to helps with fatigue.
..if you ride free-handed you could spend all the money in chocolatebars..🍫🍫🍫…
You have now officially been appointed as my shamanic advisor
@@EverythingsBeenDone i‘ll be there for you..