I worked as a Union carpenter on commercial jobs for most of my career in the trade. You are making this way more difficult than needed. Skip the OSB and just use the drywall in its place. It is plenty strong enough. Use framing angle or 1-5/8” metal studs in place of the 2x2 or 2x4. Also, to ensure the finished bottom surface is level, hang the rips of drywall a couple of inches wild, get your laser or water level elevation marks at each end. Snap a chalk line, cut the drywall off, fasten the angle or 1-5/8” stud horizontally and it’s ready for the bottom piece. No wood needed at all. Cheaper and much faster. You don’t need all that structure behind the drywall. It is a waste.
Wish you would explain in a little more detail. I really like your idea but what how do you attach the Sheetrock to the 1 5/8” metal studs? Thank you! Asking for my son who will try this for the first time
Sorry, I just saw this. I hope it’s not too late. When you use metal framing, you attach everything with drywall screws. For 1/2” drywall you can use screws as short as 1” but your best all around length that works for everything is 1-1/8” to 1-1/4”. I haven’t found that the big box stores carry the 1-1/8” but if you see them, grab some. Metal to metal uses 3/8” mini screws, preferably self tapping. Once you use metal framing and see how fast it goes up, you won’t go back to wood. Everything but heavy gauge material cuts with a tin snips. The studs are always perfectly straight, no culling for usable product. Good luck!
When I did previous basements, I build laddered boxes out of 2x2 to frame around the duct or plumbing that needed to be enclosed/built around. I think I may try your method when I tackle my next job, as it looks easier and possibly a little less $$ needed. Thanks for the vid!
OMG! I have to do this on a job tomorrow and couldn’t figure it out. But thanks to you I now know. This is the best way for me as I don’t want to frame under the duck work. Just hang the board. Nice!
As the AC units get more efficient and output colder I would not recommending sealing a duct in wood/drywall in a basement without insulating the metal duct first. Due to high humidity below ground basements tend to be more humid, this humidity leads to condensation which will rot your wood and can cause mold in drywall. I am currently working on a home built in the 60's with a Geothermal system that is putting out 40-45 degree air and causing the ducts to sweat profusely. I have had to remove all the duct surrounds and insulate the metal ducts to stop this. Additionally we added a few return lines in the basement to help too.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: [00:00] 🔨 This video will show you how to frame around HVAC ducts or pipes in your basement. [00:35] 🔨 Attach a mounting rail to the bottom of the floor joist parallel to the duct. [00:49] 📐 Measure the distance the HVAC duct extends from the floor joist and rip a piece of OSB to be 1 inch longer than that distance. [02:42] 🪛 Attach drywall directly to the OSB on the vertical sections and to the mounting studs on both sides of the duct for the bottom section. [03:10] 🛠️ Alternative framing method: Use metal studs attached every 16 inches on center and mount drywall like any other wall. This works for pipes as well. Made with HARPA AI
I watch your videos only for satisfaction not for learn how you do that if you make videos like the first video i will deafenatly i will be your biggest fan
I want to finish my basement. New homeowner.. we have an oil tank in the back right corner and our furnes/ Ducts and water heater is in the dead center of the room. We want it completely open when finished but would like to hide that stuff. Yet we want it to be accessible Incase of emergency. I don’t know how to do that or can’t find any videos summary to our set up.
I worked as a Union carpenter on commercial jobs for most of my career in the trade. You are making this way more difficult than needed. Skip the OSB and just use the drywall in its place. It is plenty strong enough. Use framing angle or 1-5/8” metal studs in place of the 2x2 or 2x4. Also, to ensure the finished bottom surface is level, hang the rips of drywall a couple of inches wild, get your laser or water level elevation marks at each end. Snap a chalk line, cut the drywall off, fasten the angle or 1-5/8” stud horizontally and it’s ready for the bottom piece. No wood needed at all. Cheaper and much faster. You don’t need all that structure behind the drywall. It is a waste.
Wish you would explain in a little more detail. I really like your idea but what how do you attach the Sheetrock to the 1 5/8” metal studs? Thank you! Asking for my son who will try this for the first time
Sorry, I just saw this. I hope it’s not too late. When you use metal framing, you attach everything with drywall screws. For 1/2” drywall you can use screws as short as 1” but your best all around length that works for everything is 1-1/8” to 1-1/4”. I haven’t found that the big box stores carry the 1-1/8” but if you see them, grab some. Metal to metal uses 3/8” mini screws, preferably self tapping. Once you use metal framing and see how fast it goes up, you won’t go back to wood. Everything but heavy gauge material cuts with a tin snips. The studs are always perfectly straight, no culling for usable product. Good luck!
I need you to post a video 😂
Do u need to wrap ducts work in insulation to prevent condensation on ducts n metal studs?
Nope
When I did previous basements, I build laddered boxes out of 2x2 to frame around the duct or plumbing that needed to be enclosed/built around. I think I may try your method when I tackle my next job, as it looks easier and possibly a little less $$ needed. Thanks for the vid!
OMG! I have to do this on a job tomorrow and couldn’t figure it out. But thanks to you I now know. This is the best way for me as I don’t want to frame under the duck work. Just hang the board. Nice!
Glad I could help! Hope it went well
My basement looks almost exactly like yours! Thanks for the video as it is perfect for my basement renovation project!
Great video bro!. I’m already experienced builder and I must say you explained all the good tips needed Very Well..Thanks!
Simple solution!!
Several have asked if the duct needs insulation to avoid sweating, etc
You are always busy Andrew! Happy New Year, 🎆🎊🎈 All the best in the new Year! Thomas!
Appreciate it, Thomas. Happy New Year to you as well!
Great job Andrew; you make it easy to follow. Happy New Year to you and B.
Appreciate it, Patrick! Happy New Year to you and your family as well!
As the AC units get more efficient and output colder I would not recommending sealing a duct in wood/drywall in a basement without insulating the metal duct first. Due to high humidity below ground basements tend to be more humid, this humidity leads to condensation which will rot your wood and can cause mold in drywall. I am currently working on a home built in the 60's with a Geothermal system that is putting out 40-45 degree air and causing the ducts to sweat profusely. I have had to remove all the duct surrounds and insulate the metal ducts to stop this. Additionally we added a few return lines in the basement to help too.
@Budweiser this man need a truck delivered to his home today . Great work
Do u need to wrap ducts with insulation to prevent condensation? especially with metal studs.
Nice technique.
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
[00:00] 🔨 This video will show you how to frame around HVAC ducts or pipes in your basement.
[00:35] 🔨 Attach a mounting rail to the bottom of the floor joist parallel to the duct.
[00:49] 📐 Measure the distance the HVAC duct extends from the floor joist and rip a piece of OSB to be 1 inch longer than that distance.
[02:42] 🪛 Attach drywall directly to the OSB on the vertical sections and to the mounting studs on both sides of the duct for the bottom section.
[03:10] 🛠️ Alternative framing method: Use metal studs attached every 16 inches on center and mount drywall like any other wall. This works for pipes as well.
Made with HARPA AI
I watch your videos only for satisfaction not for learn how you do that if you make videos like the first video i will deafenatly i will be your biggest fan
will this prevent Ducts from sweating in humid enviroment when duct run AC?
Thanks this was really help
Why didnt you just use the drywall directly unto the framing around the HVac instead of OSB and drywall ?
Should there be in clearance between the drywall and duct? is there chance for condensation.
What was the span between both sides of the hvac duct? I saw you didn’t support both vertical pieces of osb to prevent rocking. Was this not needed?
Oh, one more thing. Use fine thread, bugle head drywall screws on metal suds. Coarse threads are a fail.
Are you using 7/16 OSB?
Odd question. Could I buy your old nikes/adidas shoes?
Did you pick this method up from the Home RenoVision guy?
0:08 those pipes are something.
No insulation needed? Mine in sweating. 🤷♂️
Nice nailing on the beat 0:18
I want to finish my basement. New homeowner.. we have an oil tank in the back right corner and our furnes/ Ducts and water heater is in the dead center of the room. We want it completely open when finished but would like to hide that stuff. Yet we want it to be accessible Incase of emergency.
I don’t know how to do that or can’t find any videos summary to our set up.
now I just need a video on how to get HOA to let me replace all the duct work XD
HOA is only for outside the house. You can do whatever inside the door.
@@STILLPHENOM deletes all the walls, ceiling an floors into Cob an sounds like a unwritten violation thou lol
Good videos but slow it down on the ffwds it’s tough to pause it on time to clarify stuff
Fire blocking..?
What a train wreck. Dude, skip the OSB. No need. Just frame and drywall. You made this much more complicated then needed.