I checked out your blog!! I am in the process of gathering supplies to start on my basement. Really great stuff man!! I love all the insight and instructions!
I would strongly recommend some type of non-organic subfloor under the LVP. Ideally something that has a grid pattern with cleats that would allow any moisture to dissipate. All basement floors will have moisture of some amount.
If the living room is in the basement or any case where installing on concrete. If it's on a regular floor (plywood, hardwood, etc) then it wouldn't be necessary.
I’m going to start doing this professionally so I was watching some vids. I’ve got 5 drywall T-squares, I think I’m going to cut one or two of them down to like 18” or so and use them for a straight edge at the end of rows. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and getting right into the content. 👍
I would suggest if you have a high traffic area or if you are putting a lot of weight on the floor even level the boards will compress and then it will not disapate moisture correctly, even with a rating I would error on the side of adding at the very least a vapor barrier underneath to avoid any potential unseen mold buildup. Something with foam will work, but something with channels will work better. Believe me I got the whole spiel about how the floor will dissipate moisture just fine, but here we are replacing our sewer line and I am finding not standing water but damp spots under couches and chairs.
Andrew that is one beautiful floor! It is amazing what science has brought us to these days. Long ago I would have had to lay 9 inch or 12 inch tiles with black goo to adhere to the subfloor. Then wax it twice a year!!!. alas, there are no basements here in SE Louisiana, as you probably know. On a separate matter (flooring), I saw where a bare concrete floor not unlike yours, was covered with a thin, self leveling liquid and let to dry, then another coating of colored material was poured, leveled and allowed to settle ( 5 day dry time) then an acid wash with colors etc. Beautiful too but not a do it oneself project. Thank you. I hope your suppliers realize what a treasure they have when you feature their products and add to your 'treasure' :).
Appreciate it, Patrick! And you're not kidding - so simple, so durable, so easy to install. I feel for you and the "old" products and install methods. Thanks for supporting the channel!
My existing floor has one of those square tile carpets that are glued to the concrete sub floor. I ripped one of them off and noticed that there will be adhesive/glue residue on concrete sub floor when are removed. If I want to install LVP for this floor which will still be sticky due to the adhesive/glue residue, would I need to install underlayment first? If so, would I need to remove adhesive/glue residue before installing the underlayment?
So satisfying to watch all the pieces fit perfectly together. Well done! Looking to do it myself, but I live in a condo, so I need extra underlayment (cork) for sound proofing.
Looks great Andrew! I put the same type of flooring down in a basement room that I finished a couple years ago. Did the stairs and landings with it too. Still looking good.
Appreciate it, John! And yea I hope this holds up a good long time. I wish I followed your example and installed it on the stairs too…that might be future project. Thanks for watching!
I am about to DIY a custom door on a bare concrete floor. Not long after, LVP will be next. My question is: How much gap between the door & floor be? It will be a hidden slat door so the smaller the gap the better. Thx.
I am putting lvp flooring in a garage apt. with a concrete slab floor. I bought lvp tile for the bathroom & it seems that the attached underlayment is good enough, but plan on doing 6mil plastic in the bed & living room. Is that ok? Anyone know what I can tape it down with? (One of the flooring companies told me to use 6mil.)
Just curious, but how come no subfloor? I'm considering finishing my basement and most other places I've looked they install a subfloor first regardless of flooring type
I've found that too. Any moisture of any kind through that floor, no matter how little, will affect that flooring and the air quality in the basement. Small amounts of organic material, being food being dropped, dust, dried skin(gross I know), can get below the planks and there's your food source for mold. Should always use a subfloor with an air gap to allow moisture to dissipate.
I installed free-floating snap together vinyl tiles in my basement utility room. Didn't need a vapor barrier but they have a polymer subfloor grid design underneath allowing any moisture to dissipate. I will be installing LVP in the rest of my basement, but I have purchased a similar subfloor material with a grid pattern underneath. The LVP can be installed directly on that.
You still need a another solid vapor barrier. The moisture will still come up through the cracks. Most do a vapor barrier then underlayment for cushioning. Time will tell. 😬Rest of video is well done but I would always do extra protection against moisture on concrete as all that work will be ruined over time with warping/smell from moisture 🤞🏻
This is new to me. So a silly question. There is nothing like glue you need to put under the planks? What to do if it feels like a cushion when walking? I can see the pressure of my feet when I walk on the vinyl. Any ideas as to why? Is that normal?
Andrew, in the video there’s a pic of the different transitions & I was hoping it would be on your blog but I didn’t see it. I need help trying to figure out the best way to transition between 4.4mm lvp floors to 9mm lvp tiles in a doorway.
100% agree. Unless you are in a really high end house, it's hard to justify laminate (or even hardwood) at this point - especially in a basement. Thanks for watching!
Not sure if you still respond to this video. I had someone install LVP in my home and it has a pattern similar to a block wall. AKA the lines match up in a pattern. Your floor didn’t do that, but I thought it looked great. Are LVP floors supposed to have a uniform pattern? Great video!
1:43 isn't a floating floor the only kind that doesn't require expansion? Solid hardwood floors are not floating and they require room for expansion. But you can argue whether or not a plastic floor would need an expansion gap. Also, I am pretty sure you want to hit each LVP with the rubber mallet + tapping block on the long AND short side when connecting them to reduce the gap between your LVPs. I only really saw you do this on the long edge so I just want to clear that up.
Plastic doesn't expand or contract. Don't really need spacers with the product only comp products expand and contract. The first mistake you made when you started the installation of the product is you are not wearing kneepads on hard surfaces. The rest of your installation is good.
Please do not install vinyl plank like this. This is not the correct way to install it. 1. Vapor barrier needed, 2. When you cut a piece to fit in the doorway PLEASE lay it down the line and tap into place with the proper tools, 3. Well... just talk with an actual pro before you attempt this. There are MANY other things you must know before installation such as acclimation of the flooring, how to ensure you have quality flooring over 15 mil rigid core and how to ensure a good connection between planks without breaking the tongue or groove.
A vapor barrier is not always needed. That depends on the condition of the concrete, where it is in relation to the ground and what material is being laid. In my case my concrete is at ground level and has no mold or any type of organic growth and hardly any moisture. Hence for my project I don't need vapor barrier. In addition vapor barrier may cause more harm than good by trapping water to concrete if people use a non-breathable material. I'll say you're right about parts 2 and 3, and acclimation is so critical as you said. Done right it could take over a week to ensure the planks each absorb enough moisture to match the room
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video
You make it look so easy
But you do this every day.
I can do this after watching you.
Thank you. I was going to pay around $ 13k to remodel the basement, but I changed my mind. I will do it slowly myself
I checked out your blog!! I am in the process of gathering supplies to start on my basement. Really great stuff man!! I love all the insight and instructions!
Thanks.....I am working to renovate my basement and this video will be very very usefull. Greetings from Michigan!!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and good luck with your basement Reno!
I would strongly recommend some type of non-organic subfloor under the LVP. Ideally something that has a grid pattern with cleats that would allow any moisture to dissipate. All basement floors will have moisture of some amount.
Do we have to do the same if we are applying to a living room?
If the living room is in the basement or any case where installing on concrete. If it's on a regular floor (plywood, hardwood, etc) then it wouldn't be necessary.
I’m going to start doing this professionally so I was watching some vids. I’ve got 5 drywall
T-squares, I think I’m going to cut one or two of them down to like 18” or so and use them for a straight edge at the end of rows. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and getting right into the content. 👍
what bout a large speed square?
Why did you need the transition strip when its the same type of flooring, couldn't you have just continued the flooring into the other room?
I'm curious too
Nice work! There's no reason to put the transition strip between rooms unless the flooring type is changing. If all will be LVP just keep it going!
good call
That’s all dependent on if you have something to tie into in the next room, transition strips allow you to re adjust in your next area as needed.
Thanks for this!!!! Plan to finish my basement ! All thanks to you !
I would suggest if you have a high traffic area or if you are putting a lot of weight on the floor even level the boards will compress and then it will not disapate moisture correctly, even with a rating I would error on the side of adding at the very least a vapor barrier underneath to avoid any potential unseen mold buildup. Something with foam will work, but something with channels will work better. Believe me I got the whole spiel about how the floor will dissipate moisture just fine, but here we are replacing our sewer line and I am finding not standing water but damp spots under couches and chairs.
Andrew that is one beautiful floor! It is amazing what science has brought us to these days. Long ago I would have had to lay 9 inch or 12 inch tiles with black goo to adhere to the subfloor. Then wax it twice a year!!!.
alas, there are no basements here in SE Louisiana, as you probably know. On a separate matter (flooring), I saw where a bare concrete floor not unlike yours, was covered with a thin, self leveling liquid and let to dry, then another coating of colored material was poured, leveled and allowed to settle ( 5 day dry time) then an acid wash with colors etc. Beautiful too but not a do it oneself project. Thank you. I hope your suppliers realize what a treasure they have when you feature their products and add to your 'treasure' :).
Appreciate it, Patrick! And you're not kidding - so simple, so durable, so easy to install. I feel for you and the "old" products and install methods. Thanks for supporting the channel!
My existing floor has one of those square tile carpets that are glued to the concrete sub floor. I ripped one of them off and noticed that there will be adhesive/glue residue on concrete sub floor when are removed. If I want to install LVP for this floor which will still be sticky due to the adhesive/glue residue, would I need to install underlayment first? If so, would I need to remove adhesive/glue residue before installing the underlayment?
Your videos are so thorough - appreciate EVERY little step explained. Thank you Andrew!
I appreciate you watching! I’m glad they help.
Your tips and tricks were very helpful... You have motivated me... To tackle my last room in my house...Thanks for taking the time to share...
So satisfying to watch all the pieces fit perfectly together. Well done! Looking to do it myself, but I live in a condo, so I need extra underlayment (cork) for sound proofing.
Thank you. I'm about to do this, it was helpful to watch your process before buying the flooring.
Looks great Andrew! I put the same type of flooring down in a basement room that I finished a couple years ago. Did the stairs and landings with it too. Still looking good.
Appreciate it, John! And yea I hope this holds up a good long time. I wish I followed your example and installed it on the stairs too…that might be future project. Thanks for watching!
I am about to DIY a custom door on a bare concrete floor. Not long after, LVP will be next. My question is: How much gap between the door & floor be? It will be a hidden slat door so the smaller the gap the better. Thx.
About time for a new video! Cheers! Thomas!
Haha I'm trying to crank out 1 per week! Thanks for watching Thomas!
@@AndrewThronImprovements your welcome 🙏 mate! You are up late tonight! Hope you are doing well, and living the life! Cheers!
what made you skip the vapor barrier?
I am putting lvp flooring in a garage apt. with a concrete slab floor. I bought lvp tile for the bathroom & it seems that the attached underlayment is good enough, but plan on doing 6mil plastic in the bed & living room. Is that ok? Anyone know what I can tape it down with? (One of the flooring companies told me to use 6mil.)
What color is the flooring? Looks great !! Great job. Thank you
Just curious, but how come no subfloor? I'm considering finishing my basement and most other places I've looked they install a subfloor first regardless of flooring type
I've found that too. Any moisture of any kind through that floor, no matter how little, will affect that flooring and the air quality in the basement. Small amounts of organic material, being food being dropped, dust, dried skin(gross I know), can get below the planks and there's your food source for mold. Should always use a subfloor with an air gap to allow moisture to dissipate.
Thanks for sharing. Great job on the floor.
No vapor barrier underlayment?
I installed free-floating snap together vinyl tiles in my basement utility room. Didn't need a vapor barrier but they have a polymer subfloor grid design underneath allowing any moisture to dissipate. I will be installing LVP in the rest of my basement, but I have purchased a similar subfloor material with a grid pattern underneath. The LVP can be installed directly on that.
Why didn’t you just run the flooring into the second room? Why did you split with a molding?
Great job! One suggestion is to center the transition strip directly under the door, NOT centered in the doorway frame.
You still need a another solid vapor barrier. The moisture will still come up through the cracks. Most do a vapor barrier then underlayment for cushioning. Time will tell. 😬Rest of video is well done but I would always do extra protection against moisture on concrete as all that work will be ruined over time with warping/smell from moisture 🤞🏻
Facts!!
This is new to me. So a silly question. There is nothing like glue you need to put under the planks? What to do if it feels like a cushion when walking? I can see the pressure of my feet when I walk on the vinyl. Any ideas as to why? Is that normal?
Andrew, in the video there’s a pic of the different transitions & I was hoping it would be on your blog but I didn’t see it. I need help trying to figure out the best way to transition between 4.4mm lvp floors to 9mm lvp tiles in a doorway.
A reducer
Its good stuff! I did a video on it last month. So easy to install! Nice video!
100% agree. Unless you are in a really high end house, it's hard to justify laminate (or even hardwood) at this point - especially in a basement. Thanks for watching!
How long did that take, start to finish, on your own?
I just wonder WHY you set that transmission molding. There’s was not needed of that.
Award winning video nice job.
20 ml thick are the best,strong and water proof?
Your videos are the most detailed I have seen. Love it
Not sure if you still respond to this video. I had someone install LVP in my home and it has a pattern similar to a block wall. AKA the lines match up in a pattern. Your floor didn’t do that, but I thought it looked great. Are LVP floors supposed to have a uniform pattern? Great video!
Love the look of that! What is the name of the color of the floor you used from Metroflor?
Why would he need a transition strip if the floor is level and the same floor throughout?
For some products the manufacturer says one is needed every so often.
why would you need transition molding from one room to another if it is going to be the same material?
For some products the manufacturer says one is needed every so often.
Are you doing that on the concrete floor?
Awesome job! And great tips!
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
No Vapor barrier?
What about if I have flooding basement?
Definitely don't add vinyl flooring. Your foundation needs work to drain water away from the basement.
Why the transition strip?
1:43 isn't a floating floor the only kind that doesn't require expansion? Solid hardwood floors are not floating and they require room for expansion. But you can argue whether or not a plastic floor would need an expansion gap.
Also, I am pretty sure you want to hit each LVP with the rubber mallet + tapping block on the long AND short side when connecting them to reduce the gap between your LVPs. I only really saw you do this on the long edge so I just want to clear that up.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for watching!
Noticed you did not use an underlayment... Is it needed?
If you look at 4:04 it looks like his planks already have an underlayment layer.
How thick were these planks ?
Great video! thanks! I just have a recommendation and it's only two words... knee pads! lol
Aw man… no vapor barrier on the floor?
It was on the bottom of the planks
Worst comment award😂
Doesn’t need it on the plank 🙄
Bro came in here and clearly didn’t watch the entire video. Lol
My LVP with attached underlayment instructions still requires at least 6mil. vapor barrier
very good looking
good job
Why do you make everything so easy 😭 me and my bf is renovating the whole basement. And we’re kinda stuck but it’ll be okay. We’re trying
Plastic doesn't expand or contract.
Don't really need spacers with the product only comp products expand and contract.
The first mistake you made when you started the installation of the product is you are not wearing kneepads on hard surfaces.
The rest of your installation is good.
So pretty what’s the name of the Flooring?? What store Home Depot or Lowe’s ??? Please and thanks
It’s from MetroFlor! I forget the actual color but I’m sure you will see it on their website
I need this kind of husband 😅
Uhhhhh what? No vapor barrier or subfloor? Enjoy taking that up in ~10 years because of mold???
Please do not install vinyl plank like this. This is not the correct way to install it. 1. Vapor barrier needed, 2. When you cut a piece to fit in the doorway PLEASE lay it down the line and tap into place with the proper tools, 3. Well... just talk with an actual pro before you attempt this. There are MANY other things you must know before installation such as acclimation of the flooring, how to ensure you have quality flooring over 15 mil rigid core and how to ensure a good connection between planks without breaking the tongue or groove.
A vapor barrier is not always needed. That depends on the condition of the concrete, where it is in relation to the ground and what material is being laid. In my case my concrete is at ground level and has no mold or any type of organic growth and hardly any moisture. Hence for my project I don't need vapor barrier. In addition vapor barrier may cause more harm than good by trapping water to concrete if people use a non-breathable material.
I'll say you're right about parts 2 and 3, and acclimation is so critical as you said. Done right it could take over a week to ensure the planks each absorb enough moisture to match the room
Y would u need a vapor barrier with water resistant flooring???
Most modern basements are built to be finished meaning the concrete slab has a vapor barrier installed when the house was built.
Great point @@alxfort39
@@alxfort39 what classifies as a "modern" basement? Mine was built in the 60's.
why would you use a transition from room to room if the flooring is going in the same direction?