Handyman videos really are one of those things that restores one's faith in humanity. It's just people being helpful. No clickbait. No gimmick. Just raw kindness.
Joe, I must say that I have seen many videos on how to install vinyl flooring and I found none as good as your videos. You explain the jigs that you use to lay down you’re flooring. The jig set-up you use to secure the floor down. The reference line you use to check for straighten the planks. All this little know-how helps someone to install their vinyl floor with ease. All your videos are great, very infirmity and great to watch. If you are looking to learn.
I learned a lot from watching these and I’m in the trades. We went with a 12 mm wood composite flooring. The thin vinyl seems too cheap to us. Joe taught me the best way to layout a floor.
My buisness i work for used spc vinyl flooring from 5mm to 8mm and it's too hard it never bends. Every video I've seen looks flimsy which is odd. But great instructions from this man.
@@philtucker1224 that's great to know now I know lol I've always wanted to work with the ones where I can score and snap because it'd be faster but it makes sense now. On the box says stone composite polymer but pretty non bendy board.
I appreciate the videos over the years. Your vids are the best over all the others. imo. I'm finally doing my floors. About 75% done atm. Burned through the last of jigsaw blades. I ended up using an angle grinder with a metal concrete blade. Definitely easier/quicker and a lot straighter cuts than the jigsaw. Also didn't have a good tapper block. Just the generic black tapping block and hammer. After smashing my fingers a couple times and slipping and ruining a couple pieces..... Ended up just using a speed square. I was using it to cut end pieces using a utility knife so its right there and handy. Works well. For the long cuts I am using my table saw.
Perfect timing! I am about to start laying planks in my kitchen after having watched most of your videos. With you expertise, I feel confident that this is a job that I can do, and do well. Thanks!
Excellent video. I’ve used your videos as a guide when I did the second floor of my daughter and son in laws home. Made a world of difference after watching your videos, thanks again! 👍
I did three rooms by following these instructions and it turned out great! The best tips are how to plan out the first row and plan out how NOT to have a small sliver opening at the other end of the room. It also helped since I had a doorway at the first row, and needed to cut the first row back so the first row would go into the doorway about an inch or so. Joe really knows what he is doing. Thanks Joe!
I just want to say thank you I've watched all of your laminate University videos it's helped me tremendously in my business I was a newbie when I moved to Georgia when it come to plank flooring your videos help me become a professional and only say professional because I've seen a lot of flooring that other people has done and does not look as good as what you taught me thank you so much again
This video completely changes the whole game. If you have never installed this flooring watch this video! It will save you so much time & make the installation a whole lot easier
I am so grateful for your videos! I've watched several of your videos, and with your help, I was able to feel confident in laying laminate flooring for the first time. I had done a SMALL bathroom in vinyl plank before watching this, and got SO frustrated, didn't really get quite the finish I wanted, which is what drove me to RUclips. So glad that I found your channel!! It made the project so much easier; it went together fairly flawlessly! I do wish I'd went ahead and ordered the Plank Hammer...it would have made the project a little easier, I am sure. THANK YOU for teaching in such a clear way, and giving us all the tips for easy installation!
3 месяца назад+1
Great video!! Gluing sacrificial pieces on the first row worked wonderfully for my install on concrete. I snapped a chalk line but my room was almost perfectly square so the chalk line was really used as a nice check of my work when my planks reached the line. I recommend planning how your last row will meet the opposite wall so you aren’t left with a thin strip.
I love your guides and tips Joe, you explain processes extremely well. Much appreciated! Starting line for my project is the one that is making me nervous - because opposite my preferred starting wall, I have a stair going down (so essentially that main floor is a giant 'landing' level and needs a stair nosing strip to finish it). Between this video and the one from about a year ago (measuring from door transition back to the starting point) that will give me good confidence to start it in the right location. It's a very wide section, so the 10 plank trick is essential to get the layout width exact. I'm a convert to Flooret after seeing your reviews on their products, but important to note their stated width on Silvan spec sheet is NOT correct, so measuring 10 planks is definitely good way to go for anyone. I'm planning to give myself an extra 1/4" over, since it HAS to overhang the edge - It can be long but absolutely cannot be short! :)
That measurement is relative and is determined by multiplying the width of your flooring planks and where u want them to start or stop, that line can literally be anywhere in the room.
If I may add, that line determines where you can get a full width plank, as and already said, can be anywhere, long as it is a straight line. You can design the width of the 1st row, when you decide where to snap your line,
Man, you sure make that look a lot easier than I've had experience wise. Your first row stop block is a game changer for sure, that is (one of) the areas I struggled with in the past, getting that darn first row to stay where it needs to be while the rest are seated up against it. It also seems your planks go together way easier than those I've purchased from Home Depot, those darn things, at least for me, need to be jammed together pretty hard to get them to lock in place. I like your way of starting at the far end of the plank and walking backwards to seat it down towards the preceding but joint. I'd be curious to learn more from you about how you level your sub floor before putting down planking, and how you cut the long edge of a plank. Thanks for your great videos.
Good video, I wish you explained your chalk line measurements and how to deal with not square walls more. Maybe that wasn't your intention but you are a good teacher to learn from.
Great video for a newbie. At the end of the video you needed long, thin strips of vinyl board for the small gap against the wall. How did you cut the vinyl length wise? Table saw?
Excellent video. Getting that first row set is very overwhelming for many of us diyer's, it takes a lot of second guessing and self confidence before I can get started on my projects, but once I get rolling it goes like clockwork. It just takes so long to get started because I'm constantly measuring and worried about getting it straight. This will be a game changer for me. Thanks and keep the tips coming!
Been a while, BUT I will circle back with you Joe to share pictures and facts about the project, but it went well and a lot of that had to do with Joe and his mentoring solution.. If you have a big job and want to do it well then it is worth the money to include Joe.. If you are on a really tight budget Joe gives you the skills here to do a good job, But it is worth it to have him to ensure the outcome. Not like you can erase and start all over again. At least not cheaper than Joe's mentoring This is NOT A PAID AD. WE PAID FOR JOE'S VALUABLE SERVICE AND ARE HAPPY WE DID. i JUST HAPPENED TO SEE HIS RUclips VIDEO TODAY SO I THOUGHT I WOULD SAY HI,
Used your videos before starting my own project. I watched every video. I used your method with the screw down pieces, glue down on concrete and your cheater board. It couldn't have worked out better. My finishing row was within an eighth of an inch on a 30 foot span. All the 45 degrees worked out mint. It was perfectly squared to the house and I can't thank you enough. I wish I could share pictures because it turned out epic. Now I am going to start my own sude hustle 💪
My man, I’m just looking at videos the day before I start my job, and need a tapping block today! If I could wait for shipping I definitely would have bought yours (and the pull bar).
At the end, when you remove the nailed-down guide pieces, couldn't you just push all the floor panels up against the wall? Actually, here's another idea, since the planks at the edge are going to be hidden by the wall trim anyways, why not just nail down a full size plank down at the edge?
@@N0Lif3 Because, not all walls are straight, & that (first/last) piece has to be traced out to match. Also, you don't want a small 2" strip at an edge along the wall, or in a transition, so you split the difference between the beginning & end. Plus, you want all your planks straight, & not Cockeyed through the room, so he lines it out to be squared up first, (since not all rooms are always square), and then brings it up to the edge starter he wants, & builds off a solid straight foundation.
@@mariatorres9789won’t you end up having a lot of length wise boards to cut if you end up with really off walls that are no where straight like they’re supposed to be? My outer wall is so off and I have no idea what to do. 😢
Love the video. My one question, and maybe I didn't catch it in the beginning, is when you did your chalk lines how did you determine/measure so those first set of planks are squared up straight with the wall? 🤔
Hi! New to the channel, and I am loving it! I am learning a lot since I plan to replace my floors with LVP. So I have a BIG BIG question. I have tile floors and really don’t want to remove them. And using a self leveler scares me! Do I need to use a self leveler if I am use pads under the LVP? And I am doing it myself! Yeah! Scary! lol. Thanks in advance
Joe! Your videos have helped me take on the flooring of a 960 square foot 'cabin' in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. How did you come up with the spacing of 1 to 1 1/2 inches away from the wall? I have cut 1/4 in thick scrap pine to act as spacers, using blue painter's tape to hold in place. I buy in to using the chalk line. I did laminate flooring four summers ago in my Littleton, CO 'Watson Gulch' home but was using 20 some year old laminate flooring from Lowes. The big mistake was allowing dogs in every evening... The click together flooring does not lock in place when the groove has dirt and dog hair. I am doing one room at a time and I am the doing the project 'solo'
Your videos have been GREAT. We are about to buy the tools pack. ;-) (I kind of want the hoodie also). Do you have any experience installing LVP over warm boards or eco warm (that is what we are currently installing). We knew you could put LVP over radiant, but missed the memo that you may have to add another layer (argh) - probably just going to put durock down - but it impacts now the height of our floor (mostly towards a step is the major issues). We were pretty set up on Flooret Signature, but now think we should look for something thinner -- would could go Flooret base or other brands. We have searched high and low looking for someone who has put it directly on top (this is not concrete radiant), and can't find find a definite answer whether we need the extra layer between. We know it can't be above 85 - we are just wondering if the radiant folks are CYA and the LVP are CYA and no one wants to say it is ok - although it probably is....if anyone has any thoughts or experience we would love to hear it - the Ecoboards and the tubing has already been installed os that is not changing.
Great tutorial. Wish I had watched this one before I did a poor installation where gaps magnified and flooring didn't lock together well. Might take it up and start over. Other videos just showed the basic cheap spacers against longest wall, and that was a mistake for my situation.
Hello Joe, thanks so much for all your effort in putting together these straight forward easy to understand videos you have been putting out, (I've been following for sometime). Quick question for you, - do you think it's better to take down high spots or fill & level low spots ? I did watch your videos about using filler (feather light I think ) ...also due to watching your videos on which are the best vinyl planks out there I've decided to go with the Flooret Modin line. Thanks again. PS ~ I'm doing about 1400 sq ft in a new build.
This is so helpful thank you!! When you put the last piece in, it seems it’s going flush against the wall - is this not supposed to be your expansion area? From watching other videos, it seemed people left that space blank and applied the baseboard to cover it. I would really appreciate your insight!
Hi Joe, love your videos! Would you recommend or is it ok to put a layer of 6mm blk poly under a mohawk plank that has a padded back? I'm over a crawlspace with plywood sub, black felt, and topped with plywood under layment. I notice you like the plank to be able to move. Thanks for your help 👍
I use the same method. But I use two screws in the blocks at the butt joints,so the blocks don't twist. On concrete I use tapcons because I don't have the glue gun.
Another great vid. Can I use vinyl plank on a concrete basement floor that gets some water every 3 or years or so after a torrential rain. Would plastic underneath the flooring help?
We've been watching your vids so we can learn to lay LVP and replace the nasty carpet in our newer house. We laid bamboo in our other house, and may have gotten spoiled with the quality! The vid where you show the hallway to start as your guide, you mentioned how to make the outside edges at least a ½ plank instead of the small tiny pieces. Is that only with hallways? Now this video, the edge is smaller. I don't understand how small is too small? We finished room 1 with 4 more rooms to go. While my husband was at work yesterday, I set it up the room the way you showed how to do the hallways. That first 3 rows were so hard because the room had a bow and a closet in the middle. This video shows starting from left to right. I missed the part about using 10 planks. I'm assuming the 10 planks are key to everything in a room? I'll have to search your vids to understand how to use the 10 planks when laying LVP. If someone knows the name of the video explaining this, would you mind posting it here? Thank you. I'm dreading the next room tomorrow!!😢
just found your channel. A lot of great info. I want to put vinyl plank in my camp that is not heated in the winter. I live in Maine. What concerns should I have with the great temperature fluctuations here in Maine? Thanks keep up the great work.
I’m in the middle of a start and just finding this video so any help asap would be great as it’s my day off & trying this for DAYS. The screwed in piece, if it’s a 1/4”, what if your wall ends up not being able to fit in some of the pieces because it’s not straight? I already have baseboard & was told / hoped to leave it.
Is it OK to put kitchen Appliances on the vinyl plank flooring like stove, side-by-side refrigerator and a washing machine... also is it OK to lay 1/2 the floor then put the appliances back on the new plank floor.. I worry about the refrigerator.. Can I just lay down scrap piece's down to roll the refrig. then lifting like the back of the refrigerator to get the wheels on the scraps pieces then to roll onto the new floor without breaking locking mechanism..... Thank's for any info..
The company I bought my lvp from only has flush mount stair noses. I saw your other video that said you should not use at the top where it meets the floating floor. What do you recommend that I do? Do a glue the first plank in addition to the stairnose and pray for the best? Should I use a t-molding at the top? Please let me know. Thank you.
I am going to use the same click flooring from the living room into the front hallway. Can I continue the flooring from the living room to the hallway or would I need to put a threshold door bar at the door? If the flooring needs to be climatised and I am thinking that because the front hall is generally cooler it would be best to put a threshold bar as there will be less expansion?
I notice when you start with your 8 cut spacers they look about 1-1/2" to 2" which means when you finish and remove the screws, the real planks must be cut to that 1-1/2" width. I'm going to be using 7-1/2" wide planks. What's the reason you don't make those spacers more like 5" or 6"? Also, you said you always start with the tongue against the wall long ways and width ways. Do you cut the tongue off against the wall so when you push to the wall you can more easily get the pull bar between the plank and the wall? I hope that's clear enough for you to get what I'm asking. Thanks for the great videos. Maybe I won't cuss and throw things as much, cause I get real frustrated when I do something stupid.
Thank you so much for sharing this video and the information. I'm about to lay plank in my bathroom and was wondering how in the world I was going to get that first row done because there is a bulge in one spot of the tub so using that cheater plank will work great. I bought the cheaper tools and I may buy the ones on your site because I plan on doing the kitchen and washroom too. If the budget committee (the wife) allows me the funds that is.
What did you measure off of to snap your chalk line? I’m ready to install my floor the only thing I can’t figure out is how to make sure my floor goes in square. Can you help me learn how to make sure it goes in square? I can’t seem to find any videos about it
If the extra width needed is less than half a board wide do you still center and split the difference? I end up with two long strips down the exges if my hallway that are only 2.5" wide. Using 7.17" wide planks. Hall is 84" not counting 2 doors on both sides.
Is it always necessary to remove a sheet vinyl floor before laying vinyl plank? My subfloor in 1/2" particle board over 3/4 plywood and it's only about 10 years old so it's in good condition. We're doing the entire house so it's a mix of sheet vinyl and carpet, carpet's worn out so I'm going to have to lay another layer of subfloor to make up the difference between the carpeted area and old vinyl.
Just started laying my floor today. Finally got enough subfloor refinished to start installing. I used your method for the cheater board and the screening down of the second row with scraps to keep it from moving. But I am still using spacers at the wall I'm talking towards since I want a right seam with my planks. Everything's going great so far. I wish I would have watched this one first though because it would have helped with my staggering pattern. But mine still turned out great. Just took longer. Thanks for all your videos. They are exceptional compared to most. Shout out to Jeff over at renovision too. You and him are awesome.
I have a situation where I will be laying the flooring in a large rom but there are areas that are connected such as closets and a bathroom. How do I start? Can I establish the line in the main room and work in both directions from there?
Im having an issue with starting even after watching... I want to run the same lvp through the house..my hall way is the center point and measures 33.5, my planks nominal is 7 inches, that leaves me with 2 3/4 on either end of the hall. My jambs are around 4.25 so i can just about fall in the jamb without having to cut wach side. My problem is the skinny side pieces, if i move over and not aplit the middle i just get skinnier on one side....what should i do?
I don't like that tiny row you ended with. The planking I use requires at least 3 or 4 inches of width and it looks like you only have about 2 inches, unless you have massive hands. I also find that measuring isn't the easiest way to do this for a single room. I find it best to just lay out a single column from wall to wall and then use the remaining space to figure out your gap. Being able to see how much of a gap is there really helps me with planning how wide my first row needs to be. If it is more than 3/4 the with of a plank, I just start with a full plank.
I'm wondering how to use this technique if you have a door casing already in place. How to get the plank under the casing once the other planks are in place? I really don't want to remove the casing.
@@kibubkibub it’s gotta have room for expansion and contraction is the summer it’ll expand and in the winter it’ll contract that’s why you leave the 1/4 inch gap between the wall and the flooring ends
I wish you spent more time showing how the last piece went in tight to the wall and how you managed to get the tongue and groove clicked together when trying to slide the groove under the tongue. That's the tricky part.
Great video. Learned a lot. However, my biggest problem/frustration is connecting the butt joints. I angle the board slightly and when I drop the board down it either doesn't go in or it bends or breaks the tongue. I try to tap it in and it breaks for sure. This happens 95% of the time. Any suggestions?
@@sothatshowyoudothat Thanks. Let me give that a try. I think my biggest challenge is installing over a ceramic tile floor and the tiles are not flat, they have a "wavy" contour to them. Everyone I've talked to even Home Depot says that shouldn't be a problem. I don't agree.
You'd think with all the new cordless tool technology out there, someone would have come up with a "power" cutter. At the end of the day, it would save a lot of spent energy.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Handyman videos really are one of those things that restores one's faith in humanity. It's just people being helpful. No clickbait. No gimmick. Just raw kindness.
It's not kindness lol, it's just good honest business. Which is still rare nowadays.
I absolutely love the fact that you don’t have any stupid music playing in the background!!
Great job!!
Worse is when the music is in the foreground so you can't here what they're saying.If it's a how-to I don't need a soundtrack.
lmao
Or we have to set threw a stupid music intro and then listen about their life for the last 3 weeks
Watching your videos gave me the confidence to vinyl plank my 1,200' house. It came out perfect, thanks to your help. Thanks Joe!
Joe, I must say that I have seen many videos on how to install vinyl flooring and I found none as good as your videos. You explain the jigs that you use to lay down you’re flooring. The jig set-up you use to secure the floor down. The reference line you use to check for straighten the planks.
All this little know-how helps someone to install their vinyl floor with ease. All your videos are great, very infirmity and great to watch. If you are looking to learn.
I learned a lot from watching these and I’m in the trades. We went with a 12 mm wood composite flooring. The thin vinyl seems too cheap to us. Joe taught me the best way to layout a floor.
I use all types but vinyl flooring is handy when you don’t want thickness.
My buisness i work for used spc vinyl flooring from 5mm to 8mm and it's too hard it never bends. Every video I've seen looks flimsy which is odd. But great instructions from this man.
@@-SLEAZY- vinyl is quite soft so if the one you mentioned is very hard or rigid it’s probably mainly made of a predominantly plastic material…
@@philtucker1224 that's great to know now I know lol I've always wanted to work with the ones where I can score and snap because it'd be faster but it makes sense now. On the box says stone composite polymer but pretty non bendy board.
I appreciate the videos over the years. Your vids are the best over all the others. imo. I'm finally doing my floors. About 75% done atm. Burned through the last of jigsaw blades. I ended up using an angle grinder with a metal concrete blade. Definitely easier/quicker and a lot straighter cuts than the jigsaw. Also didn't have a good tapper block. Just the generic black tapping block and hammer. After smashing my fingers a couple times and slipping and ruining a couple pieces..... Ended up just using a speed square. I was using it to cut end pieces using a utility knife so its right there and handy. Works well. For the long cuts I am using my table saw.
Perfect timing! I am about to start laying planks in my kitchen after having watched most of your videos. With you expertise, I feel confident that this is a job that I can do, and do well. Thanks!
Excellent video. I’ve used your videos as a guide when I did the second floor of my daughter and son in laws home. Made a world of difference after watching your videos, thanks again! 👍
Just wanted to thank you I watched some of your videos and was able to install a few rooms of LVP. Most important is a solid, flat/level subfloor.
Joe this tip saved the day when I had a wavy wall yesterday!!! Can’t thank you enough!! No tears today 🤣🤣
I did three rooms by following these instructions and it turned out great! The best tips are how to plan out the first row and plan out how NOT to have a small sliver opening at the other end of the room. It also helped since I had a doorway at the first row, and needed to cut the first row back so the first row would go into the doorway about an inch or so. Joe really knows what he is doing. Thanks Joe!
I just want to say thank you I've watched all of your laminate University videos it's helped me tremendously in my business I was a newbie when I moved to Georgia when it come to plank flooring your videos help me become a professional and only say professional because I've seen a lot of flooring that other people has done and does not look as good as what you taught me thank you so much again
This video completely changes the whole game. If you have never installed this flooring watch this video! It will save you so much time & make the installation a whole lot easier
I am so grateful for your videos! I've watched several of your videos, and with your help, I was able to feel confident in laying laminate flooring for the first time. I had done a SMALL bathroom in vinyl plank before watching this, and got SO frustrated, didn't really get quite the finish I wanted, which is what drove me to RUclips. So glad that I found your channel!! It made the project so much easier; it went together fairly flawlessly! I do wish I'd went ahead and ordered the Plank Hammer...it would have made the project a little easier, I am sure.
THANK YOU for teaching in such a clear way, and giving us all the tips for easy installation!
Great video!! Gluing sacrificial pieces on the first row worked wonderfully for my install on concrete. I snapped a chalk line but my room was almost perfectly square so the chalk line was really used as a nice check of my work when my planks reached the line. I recommend planning how your last row will meet the opposite wall so you aren’t left with a thin strip.
A tape measure may come in handy
I love your guides and tips Joe, you explain processes extremely well. Much appreciated!
Starting line for my project is the one that is making me nervous - because opposite my preferred starting wall, I have a stair going down (so essentially that main floor is a giant 'landing' level and needs a stair nosing strip to finish it). Between this video and the one from about a year ago (measuring from door transition back to the starting point) that will give me good confidence to start it in the right location. It's a very wide section, so the 10 plank trick is essential to get the layout width exact. I'm a convert to Flooret after seeing your reviews on their products, but important to note their stated width on Silvan spec sheet is NOT correct, so measuring 10 planks is definitely good way to go for anyone. I'm planning to give myself an extra 1/4" over, since it HAS to overhang the edge - It can be long but absolutely cannot be short! :)
Screwed in stops is a game changer!
What determined where you snapped your chalk line?
I second this question. That 41-1/16" measurement had me lost as a result of this I believe.
That measurement is relative and is determined by multiplying the width of your flooring planks and where u want them to start or stop, that line can literally be anywhere in the room.
If I may add, that line determines where you can get a full width plank, as and already said, can be anywhere, long as it is a straight line.
You can design the width of the 1st row, when you decide where to snap your line,
Man, you sure make that look a lot easier than I've had experience wise. Your first row stop block is a game changer for sure, that is (one of) the areas I struggled with in the past, getting that darn first row to stay where it needs to be while the rest are seated up against it. It also seems your planks go together way easier than those I've purchased from Home Depot, those darn things, at least for me, need to be jammed together pretty hard to get them to lock in place. I like your way of starting at the far end of the plank and walking backwards to seat it down towards the preceding but joint. I'd be curious to learn more from you about how you level your sub floor before putting down planking, and how you cut the long edge of a plank. Thanks for your great videos.
Good video, I wish you explained your chalk line measurements and how to deal with not square walls more. Maybe that wasn't your intention but you are a good teacher to learn from.
There is a video before this that explains that.
This one - ruclips.net/video/gmFr5k3IkV4/видео.html
very informative,always appreciate seeing real craftsmanship. well done
Great video for a newbie. At the end of the video you needed long, thin strips of vinyl board for the small gap against the wall. How did you cut the vinyl length wise? Table saw?
Using the tapping block to set the planks is genius and just mad my life so much easier. - Guy who may have taken on too much of a home project.
Excellent video. Getting that first row set is very overwhelming for many of us diyer's, it takes a lot of second guessing and self confidence before I can get started on my projects, but once I get rolling it goes like clockwork. It just takes so long to get started because I'm constantly measuring and worried about getting it straight. This will be a game changer for me. Thanks and keep the tips coming!
Been a while, BUT I will circle back with you Joe to share pictures and facts about the project, but it went well and a lot of that had to do with Joe and his mentoring solution..
If you have a big job and want to do it well then it is worth the money to include Joe.. If you are on a really tight budget Joe gives you the skills here to do a good job,
But it is worth it to have him to ensure the outcome. Not like you can erase and start all over again. At least not cheaper than Joe's mentoring This is NOT A PAID AD. WE PAID FOR JOE'S VALUABLE SERVICE AND ARE HAPPY WE DID. i JUST HAPPENED TO SEE HIS RUclips VIDEO TODAY SO I THOUGHT I WOULD SAY HI,
I enjoy your videos. The layout video helped with the floor job and the shower tile. In this world, you have to think outside the box.
Great tips. Really appreciate the time it takes to put these videos together. Thanks and God Bless.
Used your videos before starting my own project. I watched every video. I used your method with the screw down pieces, glue down on concrete and your cheater board. It couldn't have worked out better. My finishing row was within an eighth of an inch on a 30 foot span. All the 45 degrees worked out mint. It was perfectly squared to the house and I can't thank you enough. I wish I could share pictures because it turned out epic. Now I am going to start my own sude hustle 💪
My man, I’m just looking at videos the day before I start my job, and need a tapping block today! If I could wait for shipping I definitely would have bought yours (and the pull bar).
At the end, when you remove the nailed-down guide pieces, couldn't you just push all the floor panels up against the wall? Actually, here's another idea, since the planks at the edge are going to be hidden by the wall trim anyways, why not just nail down a full size plank down at the edge?
@@N0Lif3 Because, not all walls are straight, & that (first/last) piece has to be traced out to match. Also, you don't want a small 2" strip at an edge along the wall, or in a transition, so you split the difference between the beginning & end. Plus, you want all your planks straight, & not Cockeyed through the room, so he lines it out to be squared up first, (since not all rooms are always square), and then brings it up to the edge starter he wants, & builds off a solid straight foundation.
@@mariatorres9789won’t you end up having a lot of length wise boards to cut if you end up with really off walls that are no where straight like they’re supposed to be? My outer wall is so off and I have no idea what to do. 😢
Great video, Joe!
Great video, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience
I used your method to do the LVP floor in my bathroom. Worked like a charm especially for walls that were a little wonky.
Love the video. My one question, and maybe I didn't catch it in the beginning, is when you did your chalk lines how did you determine/measure so those first set of planks are squared up straight with the wall? 🤔
Thanks for this series and your page! All of your videos are excellent, but this one is the absolute best! Thanks again
Hi! New to the channel, and I am loving it! I am learning a lot since I plan to replace my floors with LVP. So I have a BIG BIG question. I have tile floors and really don’t want to remove them. And using a self leveler scares me! Do I need to use a self leveler if I am use pads under the LVP? And I am doing it myself! Yeah! Scary! lol. Thanks in advance
Joe! Your videos have helped me take on the flooring of a 960 square foot 'cabin' in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. How did you come up with the spacing of 1 to 1 1/2 inches away from the wall? I have cut 1/4 in thick scrap pine to act as spacers, using blue painter's tape to hold in place. I buy in to using the chalk line. I did laminate flooring four summers ago in my Littleton, CO 'Watson Gulch' home but was using 20 some year old laminate flooring from Lowes. The big mistake was allowing dogs in every evening... The click together flooring does not lock in place when the groove has dirt and dog hair. I am doing one room at a time and I am the doing the project 'solo'
Nice, screws to hold temporary. Love it. Thank you, brother.
How did you decide where to pop the chalk line? How far off the wall? Why?
@@demguiz944 my question exactly lol did you ever figure it out ?
Your videos have been GREAT. We are about to buy the tools pack. ;-) (I kind of want the hoodie also).
Do you have any experience installing LVP over warm boards or eco warm (that is what we are currently installing). We knew you could put LVP over radiant, but missed the memo that you may have to add another layer (argh) - probably just going to put durock down - but it impacts now the height of our floor (mostly towards a step is the major issues). We were pretty set up on Flooret Signature, but now think we should look for something thinner -- would could go Flooret base or other brands. We have searched high and low looking for someone who has put it directly on top (this is not concrete radiant), and can't find find a definite answer whether we need the extra layer between. We know it can't be above 85 - we are just wondering if the radiant folks are CYA and the LVP are CYA and no one wants to say it is ok - although it probably is....if anyone has any thoughts or experience we would love to hear it - the Ecoboards and the tubing has already been installed os that is not changing.
Great tutorial. Wish I had watched this one before I did a poor installation where gaps magnified and flooring didn't lock together well. Might take it up and start over. Other videos just showed the basic cheap spacers against longest wall, and that was a mistake for my situation.
Hello Joe, thanks so much for all your effort in putting together these straight forward easy to understand videos you have been putting out, (I've been following for sometime). Quick question for you, - do you think it's better to take down high spots or fill & level low spots ? I did watch your videos about using filler (feather light I think ) ...also due to watching your videos on which are the best vinyl planks out there I've decided to go with the Flooret Modin line. Thanks again. PS ~ I'm doing about 1400 sq ft in a new build.
This is so helpful thank you!! When you put the last piece in, it seems it’s going flush against the wall - is this not supposed to be your expansion area? From watching other videos, it seemed people left that space blank and applied the baseboard to cover it. I would really appreciate your insight!
What determined the chalk line measurement and how did you determine the 41 inch measurement?
Hi Joe, love your videos! Would you recommend or is it ok to put a layer of 6mm blk poly under a mohawk plank that has a padded back? I'm over a crawlspace with plywood sub, black felt, and topped with plywood under layment. I notice you like the plank to be able to move. Thanks for your help 👍
I use the same method. But I use two screws in the blocks at the butt joints,so the blocks don't twist. On concrete I use tapcons because I don't have the glue gun.
Thank you for your time and effort 👍
Great video! the little tips add a lot to this project!
Another great vid. Can I use vinyl plank on a concrete basement floor that gets some water every 3 or years or so after a torrential rain. Would plastic underneath the flooring help?
Thumbs up! Great work, efforts and results..however, very confusing for a DIYer like me
Thank you. Loved your video. I learned something today
We've been watching your vids so we can learn to lay LVP and replace the nasty carpet in our newer house. We laid bamboo in our other house, and may have gotten spoiled with the quality!
The vid where you show the hallway to start as your guide, you mentioned how to make the outside edges at least a ½ plank instead of the small tiny pieces. Is that only with hallways? Now this video, the edge is smaller. I don't understand how small is too small?
We finished room 1 with 4 more rooms to go. While my husband was at work yesterday, I set it up the room the way you showed how to do the hallways. That first 3 rows were so hard because the room had a bow and a closet in the middle.
This video shows starting from left to right. I missed the part about using 10 planks. I'm assuming the 10 planks are key to everything in a room?
I'll have to search your vids to understand how to use the 10 planks when laying LVP. If someone knows the name of the video explaining this, would you mind posting it here? Thank you. I'm dreading the next room tomorrow!!😢
just found your channel. A lot of great info. I want to put vinyl plank in my camp that is not heated in the winter. I live in Maine. What concerns should I have with the great temperature fluctuations here in Maine? Thanks keep up the great work.
Hi Joe! Any ideas how to start the first row if there is a concrete slab underneath? Thank you!
I’m in the middle of a start and just finding this video so any help asap would be great as it’s my day off & trying this for DAYS. The screwed in piece, if it’s a 1/4”, what if your wall ends up not being able to fit in some of the pieces because it’s not straight? I already have baseboard & was told / hoped to leave it.
Is it OK to put kitchen Appliances on the vinyl plank flooring like stove, side-by-side refrigerator and a washing machine... also is it OK to lay 1/2 the floor then put the appliances back on the new plank floor.. I worry about the refrigerator.. Can I just lay down scrap piece's down to roll the refrig. then lifting like the back of the refrigerator to get the wheels on the scraps pieces then to roll onto the new floor without breaking locking mechanism..... Thank's for any info..
The company I bought my lvp from only has flush mount stair noses. I saw your other video that said you should not use at the top where it meets the floating floor. What do you recommend that I do?
Do a glue the first plank in addition to the stairnose and pray for the best?
Should I use a t-molding at the top?
Please let me know. Thank you.
I am going to use the same click flooring from the living room into the front hallway. Can I continue the flooring from the living room to the hallway or would I need to put a threshold door bar at the door? If the flooring needs to be climatised and I am thinking that because the front hall is generally cooler it would be best to put a threshold bar as there will be less expansion?
I notice when you start with your 8 cut spacers they look about 1-1/2" to 2" which means when you finish and remove the screws, the real planks must be cut to that 1-1/2" width. I'm going to be using 7-1/2" wide planks. What's the reason you don't make those spacers more like 5" or 6"? Also, you said you always start with the tongue against the wall long ways and width ways. Do you cut the tongue off against the wall so when you push to the wall you can more easily get the pull bar between the plank and the wall? I hope that's clear enough for you to get what I'm asking. Thanks for the great videos. Maybe I won't cuss and throw things as much, cause I get real frustrated when I do something stupid.
Thank you so much for sharing this video and the information. I'm about to lay plank in my bathroom and was wondering how in the world I was going to get that first row done because there is a bulge in one spot of the tub so using that cheater plank will work great. I bought the cheaper tools and I may buy the ones on your site because I plan on doing the kitchen and washroom too. If the budget committee (the wife) allows me the funds that is.
What did you measure off of to snap your chalk line? I’m ready to install my floor the only thing I can’t figure out is how to make sure my floor goes in square. Can you help me learn how to make sure it goes in square? I can’t seem to find any videos about it
What make/model cutter is that you’re using and does it work with rigid core? Thanks
Please,Why did not you leave space between the wall and Plank vinyl? thank you in advance for answer
I watched a video of yours I’m subscribed learned a lot looking forward to watch your videos very informative thank you
If the extra width needed is less than half a board wide do you still center and split the difference? I end up with two long strips down the exges if my hallway that are only 2.5" wide. Using 7.17" wide planks. Hall is 84" not counting 2 doors on both sides.
Is it always necessary to remove a sheet vinyl floor before laying vinyl plank? My subfloor in 1/2" particle board over 3/4 plywood and it's only about 10 years old so it's in good condition. We're doing the entire house so it's a mix of sheet vinyl and carpet, carpet's worn out so I'm going to have to lay another layer of subfloor to make up the difference between the carpeted area and old vinyl.
So when starting... that gap from the planks to the wall will be covered by the base board and quarter round?
Just started laying my floor today. Finally got enough subfloor refinished to start installing.
I used your method for the cheater board and the screening down of the second row with scraps to keep it from moving. But I am still using spacers at the wall I'm talking towards since I want a right seam with my planks.
Everything's going great so far. I wish I would have watched this one first though because it would have helped with my staggering pattern. But mine still turned out great. Just took longer.
Thanks for all your videos. They are exceptional compared to most.
Shout out to Jeff over at renovision too. You and him are awesome.
So clear and helpful
My vinyl sensei, what do you think about the planks offered by Sam’s Club? They are 9mm thick…..
I missed the part where you said why you put your chalk line where you did, or why you put 10 boards together and measured it.
I think it's to the centre of the room, as this makes sure the spacing is even either side.
Lol
I have a situation where I will be laying the flooring in a large rom but there are areas that are connected such as closets and a bathroom. How do I start? Can I establish the line in the main room and work in both directions from there?
Great video!
I have a 3’ entrance into my guest bedroom. Do I have to stagger those in the entrance?
Im having an issue with starting even after watching...
I want to run the same lvp through the house..my hall way is the center point and measures 33.5, my planks nominal is 7 inches, that leaves me with 2 3/4 on either end of the hall. My jambs are around 4.25 so i can just about fall in the jamb without having to cut wach side.
My problem is the skinny side pieces, if i move over and not aplit the middle i just get skinnier on one side....what should i do?
I had the one that if you lift it enough, it jumps in by itself, no need for hammer or banging on it.
So how did the plank go together going through the door way ? You can’t tip it up at an angle ?
Thank you for all yiur vids. BEST
I have concrete floors but need to use underlayment. How would I use stops in this situation?
I don't like that tiny row you ended with. The planking I use requires at least 3 or 4 inches of width and it looks like you only have about 2 inches, unless you have massive hands.
I also find that measuring isn't the easiest way to do this for a single room. I find it best to just lay out a single column from wall to wall and then use the remaining space to figure out your gap. Being able to see how much of a gap is there really helps me with planning how wide my first row needs to be. If it is more than 3/4 the with of a plank, I just start with a full plank.
This is a full house layout. Watch this video and you will understand why i did this. ruclips.net/video/gmFr5k3IkV4/видео.html
I'm wondering how to use this technique if you have a door casing already in place. How to get the plank under the casing once the other planks are in place? I really don't want to remove the casing.
But how did you get the line square?
I have carpet in my family rooms want to the plank next to the carpet is there a transition piece to put to make it a nice look thank you in advance
Alu Transition Profile or Compensation Profile
I need one of the flooring cutters
I see you didn't screw or glue the floor, and since you leave 1/4" gap will the floor move after time? what keep the floor in place?
@@kibubkibub it’s gotta have room for expansion and contraction is the summer it’ll expand and in the winter it’ll contract that’s why you leave the 1/4 inch gap between the wall and the flooring ends
Cool trade skills. A hunk too my gawd
Does it matter not to install a moister barrier under wooden subfloor?
What if you want to go next to other hallway in the parallel of the first line and wall.. a door and want to go to Hallway? With this small thin cuts?
You made me a better floor guy
That last row you install that Cheater board how do you get the right size board for that final measurement
What kind of glue are we using there (4:57)?
Great video
I wish you spent more time showing how the last piece went in tight to the wall and how you managed to get the tongue and groove clicked together when trying to slide the groove under the tongue. That's the tricky part.
nice video thank you
Can the planks be glued down also?
Great video. Learned a lot. However, my biggest problem/frustration is connecting the butt joints. I angle the board slightly and when I drop the board down it either doesn't go in or it bends or breaks the tongue. I try to tap it in and it breaks for sure. This happens 95% of the time. Any suggestions?
What brand of plank?
@@sothatshowyoudothat 4 mil Traffic Master from Home Depot
Sounds like you need to get a higher angle to lock in butt joint then get the long joint locked in.
I show how to install this here - ruclips.net/video/HQlNnsNV7ZA/видео.html
@@sothatshowyoudothat Thanks. Let me give that a try. I think my biggest challenge is installing over a ceramic tile floor and the tiles are not flat, they have a "wavy" contour to them. Everyone I've talked to even Home Depot says that shouldn't be a problem. I don't agree.
Have anyone use Cali brand lvp from lowes?, are tongue and grove or drop and tap butt joints lock better?
You'd think with all the new cordless tool technology out there, someone would have come up with a "power" cutter. At the end of the day, it would save a lot of spent energy.
First row cut out for the door how would that work ?
Thanks!