I'm a framer/general contractor Do alot of additions and remodels what have you. This is pretty much how we always do fur downs it's so much faster and easier and personally I think this it looks way better. Also you save alot of lumber and cutting work.
I agree it's easy than building a ladder. After all it's all going to be hidden by a drywall so how really knows or cares if it's a ladder or plywood. The homeowner wants it to be laser straight & ascetic. Saves you the hassle of cutting lumber. Thanks boss
@@falsealarmno 1x4 tend to sag over time especially with 2ft centers and wide span. 2x4s give you more meat to fasten to . That being said you could use 1x4s but 2x4s are the better choice in most cases
Just used this method in a pretty difficult situation and it turned out good. Very good in fact and way faster than the alternative which is very good for me. Especially when time is money. Thanks for your insight.
Best feature was showing how you nailed the 2 x 2 or stapled it to the OSB 11 inches wide and then nailed that to the 2 x 2 nailed to the floor joists above. A lot to remember.
Dude! Awesome. I've use OSB before but I attach both the top and bottom 2x2's to it then try to secure to the ceiling, not fun. The way you do by attaching the top 2x2 to the ceiling first make so much easier.
Very nice video. I plan on doing something similar in my basement, but my dilemma is that it’s one of those partially finished basements with drywall on the ceiling and a couple walls, and the ductwork outside of the ceiling drywall. Would I need to remove all of the drywall from the entire ceiling, or just around the ductwork? Trying to minimize drywall demoing as much as possible.
Great video. My plan is to build a wall (probably 2x6 framing) directly under part of the steel I-beam in our basement. Using your technique should I first encase the I-beam with the 1/2 inch OSB and then build the wall directly under it? The wall will then be drywalled and I want to make sure it looks smooth and straight.
Awesome vid! Would it make sense to snap the line measuring from the metal I beam vs the wall you built instead? Wouldn't that be more accurately straight?
I measured off the wall because of the drop ceiling that's going in that space. A small difference in square would be more noticeable on drop ceiling panels than on the drywall drop👍
I really like your technique for enclosing ductwork and other obstacles. I plan on doing this around a steel I beam. Would 1/4" OSB be sufficient to cover the I beam and make a nice smooth run? Thanks
Hi. Currently getting basement finished and installing new hvac system. I will have to box-in/frame the new main duct and was wondering can pressure treated wood be used to frame the duct? I have a lot left over from the rennovation. Thanks all.
They both do the same thing. This way easier to build, easier to handle, takes less material, takes up less space. I prefer this way myself, others prefer the other
I’d love to do this method. But I’m worried the drywall screws will then pierce the ductwork. How long is a standard drywall screw? I’m assuming you use shorter screws on the soffit to ensure it doesn’t pierce? Will my drywall guys be smart enough to not put a hole in my trunk?
The 2x2 is going to already bring your plywood minimum 1.5” away from the ducting. Plus your thickness of the plywood and drywall, i don’t think you’re going to come close to piercing the ductwork. Stick to 1-1/4 drywall screws and you’ll be fine
It's not my ceiling but I have another video titled ...how to install drop ceiling(layout/tips)...that's from the same job that has footage of that drop after its been drywaller and painted
@@GetToThePointplz123 ok thanks. My previous house had a drop ceiling in the basement and the ac ducts sweated above that and stained through the tiles. Maybe just something with that house. About to box in the ones in my current basement.
Did you also install the drywall on top over the osb? If I don't have framing nailer, can I use screw driver instead? and what size of screw for this framing? Many thanks in advance.
3-1/4 inch gun nails straight thru osb and 2x2 into 2x4, you could toe nail if you have to ...doing it the way I said helps keep things tight and typically no wood splitting
Never have, Wouldn't be very strong cause the weight of the bottom would be on that... osb gives it strength and something solid for ceiling grid or crown molding
Your title includes a qualifier (easy way) that implies that this is not the typical method for doing this. Can you expound on why you chose this method, why it is preferable, and why everyone else doesn't do it this way? Is the main driver for the difference just the cost?
I've built these every which way, I find this is the easiest , less time consuming and takes up less space. Never did the math to figure out if its cheaper though.
@Mikey33yo Anyone who's spent any time in general construction will call these 2x2s. But feel free to walk into a lumber yard or home depot and ask where the 1-1/2 x 1-1/2s are and give them a good chuckle.
When you framed around the spot in the duct where the vent is going to go there now a few inches of wood between the opening and the where the vent cover will be. Do you need to put anything in between there?
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I'm a framer/general contractor Do alot of additions and remodels what have you. This is pretty much how we always do fur downs it's so much faster and easier and personally I think this it looks way better. Also you save alot of lumber and cutting work.
Thx. Exactly what I needed to watch. Can’t wait to try it out. Watching from Ontario Canada
Very well explained.. I'm finishing my basement and your video is going to really help me. Thank you
Is it done yet 😂😂
I agree it's easy than building a ladder. After all it's all going to be hidden by a drywall so how really knows or cares if it's a ladder or plywood. The homeowner wants it to be laser straight & ascetic. Saves you the hassle of cutting lumber. Thanks boss
Just as straight, just as strong for what it does
You saved me a headache. Thanks a ton
You’re a lifesaver man!! This so well done and easily explained!! Thank you so very much 🙏🏽
Awesome
@@GetToThePointplz123 Nice VID. But why did you use 2×4 instead of 1 ×4 at the bottom edge of the duct?
@@falsealarmno 1x4 tend to sag over time especially with 2ft centers and wide span. 2x4s give you more meat to fasten to . That being said you could use 1x4s but 2x4s are the better choice in most cases
@@GetToThePointplz123OK. Thanks man.
Just used this method in a pretty difficult situation and it turned out good. Very good in fact and way faster than the alternative which is very good for me. Especially when time is money. Thanks for your insight.
Get to the point! Straight to the point! Good work!
Thnx brother 👍
Hell yeah i see so many janky ass drops, i was wondering how many people do it the same. You sir know wtf your doing
Best feature was showing how you nailed the 2 x 2 or stapled it to the OSB 11 inches wide and then nailed that to the 2 x 2 nailed to the floor joists above. A lot to remember.
Thank you for this video going to be trying this tonight. I am going to use my nail gun to assemble them. Would 2.5 in nails be ok or too long?
I recommend whats in the video
Simple and to the point. Really appreciate it!
Nice👍
Dude! Awesome. I've use OSB before but I attach both the top and bottom 2x2's to it then try to secure to the ceiling, not fun. The way you do by attaching the top 2x2 to the ceiling first make so much easier.
Love the video. You make it look clean and simple.
Very nice video. I plan on doing something similar in my basement, but my dilemma is that it’s one of those partially finished basements with drywall on the ceiling and a couple walls, and the ductwork outside of the ceiling drywall. Would I need to remove all of the drywall from the entire ceiling, or just around the ductwork? Trying to minimize drywall demoing as much as possible.
I wouldn't demo anymore than you have too
Great video. My plan is to build a wall (probably 2x6 framing) directly under part of the steel I-beam in our basement. Using your technique should I first encase the I-beam with the 1/2 inch OSB and then build the wall directly under it? The wall will then be drywalled and I want to make sure it looks smooth and straight.
How did your plan pan out? Wouldn't you just skip the OSB and just frame your wall all the way to the floor joists which does the same thing?
Thank you very much for your soon reply. Much appreciated!
wat
Excellent solution, nicely explained. Thank you.
Awesome vid! Would it make sense to snap the line measuring from the metal I beam vs the wall you built instead? Wouldn't that be more accurately straight?
I measured off the wall because of the drop ceiling that's going in that space. A small difference in square would be more noticeable on drop ceiling panels than on the drywall drop👍
I really like your technique for enclosing ductwork and other obstacles. I plan on doing this around a steel I beam. Would 1/4" OSB be sufficient to cover the I beam and make a nice smooth run? Thanks
I wouldn't use 1/4 inch anything for this type of drop construction, its not strong enough and will have too much give...minimum 1/2 osb or plywood
Great work. When do you put in the bulk head. Before or after framing the walls of your basement?
I do all the walls 1st
Why did you use the plywood on the sides of the drop? Rather then letting dry wallers cover the drop in? Looks like a nice job, 👍
It's in place of 2x material ,to hold the top to the bottom
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
What kind of gun & staples did you use to staple your 2x4’s like that? That definitely seems easier than toenailing !
Used a framing stapler for osb with an 1-1/2" staple and a nail gun with 3-1/4" nails for nailing 2x2 and 2x4
Well done Sir, Thank You for Your Time.
It’s a very well done,you didn’t mention the thickness of the THD in this video, thanks for the answer in advance
Osb sheets are 1/2" or 7/16" either works
Thank you so much and last thing could I use my air gun for the nails and which size you recommend in OSD for better grip
2inch
Thanks 👍
Hi. Currently getting basement finished and installing new hvac system. I will have to box-in/frame the new main duct and was wondering can pressure treated wood be used to frame the duct? I have a lot left over from the rennovation. Thanks all.
Pressure treated shrinks when it dries, it could crack drywall . I think I would return pressure treated and get white pine... its a lot cheaper.
Thank you very much for your video and instructions. Very useful and very informative!
Is there a way to run soffits perpendicular to the floor joists where the soffits are not under the joists?
Yes
This vs the ladder way of doing things. Pros and cons?
They both do the same thing. This way easier to build, easier to handle, takes less material, takes up less space. I prefer this way myself, others prefer the other
I’d love to do this method. But I’m worried the drywall screws will then pierce the ductwork.
How long is a standard drywall screw? I’m assuming you use shorter screws on the soffit to ensure it doesn’t pierce?
Will my drywall guys be smart enough to not put a hole in my trunk?
1-1/4" is pretty standard for drywall
The 2x2 is going to already bring your plywood minimum 1.5” away from the ducting. Plus your thickness of the plywood and drywall, i don’t think you’re going to come close to piercing the ductwork. Stick to 1-1/4 drywall screws and you’ll be fine
do you have any way I can see what your ceiling looks like now? is it finished yet?
It's not my ceiling but I have another video titled ...how to install drop ceiling(layout/tips)...that's from the same job that has footage of that drop after its been drywaller and painted
Do you recommend using 2x4’s for the ceiling portion under the ductwork ?
I do but if you need that Xtra little bit you can use 1×4 's...just watch you don't span to far, they will sag over time
Do you not need to insulate the trunk supply duct to keep from sweating when a/c is running through?
I've never seen one sweat because of the a.c.
@@GetToThePointplz123 ok thanks. My previous house had a drop ceiling in the basement and the ac ducts sweated above that and stained through the tiles.
Maybe just something with that house.
About to box in the ones in my current basement.
@@understandthepeaches1025 yeah, never had that happen, maybe if its touching?...All ways leave a gap between framing , drywall and ducts
Did you also install the drywall on top over the osb? If I don't have framing nailer, can I use screw driver instead? and what size of screw for this framing? Many thanks in advance.
Yes drywall over everything, I would use 1-1/4 drywall screw on the osb and 3in screw on the 2x2 and 2x4 parts
@@GetToThePointplz123 Many thanks for your soon reply. Much appreciated!
Just curious what is the clearance under the finished soffit with drywall over it?
This bs mnt maybe 6ft 2in? Bsmnt wall height and duct size will determine finish clearance underneath
can you do this with 3/4 mdf? i only ask because there is a 4x8 dinged piece on clearance near me for 20 dollars or half as much as plywood right now.
I think 7/16 osb is less than that, mdf would be a little heavy but will work
Awesome stuff man! Thank you so much!
what is the thickness of your osb please? what side of osb be faced outside please?Thank you very much in advance
I use 7/16"or 1/2", doesn't really matter which side is out
Can you frame walls under the bulkhead?
Yes
You are using 2x4s for the cross supports? Is that really necessary? I have an awful lot of 2x3s.
Perfect, 2x4s are alittle more ridgid if you have a larger span...because they're laid flat, I would use a 16oc layout for 2x3s
@@GetToThePointplz123 Thanks!
Good job guy
What was the reasoning for using particle board?
Cost, space saving,easy to work with, easy to construct, plenty strong enough for drywall
Did you put drywall onto plywood/obs as well or only on the bottom?
Yes drywall over top
So did you toe nail the 2X4s to the 2X2?
3-1/4 inch gun nails straight thru osb and 2x2 into 2x4, you could toe nail if you have to ...doing it the way I said helps keep things tight and typically no wood splitting
Thanks so much.
How do you know that both sides are the same height?
I measured both sides and go with the lowest point
Have you ever hung it with drywall instead of osb?
Never have, Wouldn't be very strong cause the weight of the bottom would be on that... osb gives it strength and something solid for ceiling grid or crown molding
Smart idea lol
Your title includes a qualifier (easy way) that implies that this is not the typical method for doing this. Can you expound on why you chose this method, why it is preferable, and why everyone else doesn't do it this way? Is the main driver for the difference just the cost?
I've built these every which way, I find this is the easiest , less time consuming and takes up less space. Never did the math to figure out if its cheaper though.
👷♂️👍🏼
that isn't plywood, it is OSB. totally different.
I misspoke...both will work
Um those are 1 by 2s buddy not 2 bv 2s lol
Just to clarify a 1x2 is 3/4"×1-1/2" and a 2x2 is 1-1/2" × 1-1/2"
@@GetToThePointplz123 still not 2x2
@@mikey33yooh Just like a 2x4 is not a 2x4 lol. duh.
@Mikey33yo Anyone who's spent any time in general construction will call these 2x2s. But feel free to walk into a lumber yard or home depot and ask where the 1-1/2 x 1-1/2s are and give them a good chuckle.
When you framed around the spot in the duct where the vent is going to go there now a few inches of wood between the opening and the where the vent cover will be. Do you need to put anything in between there?
I use aluminum tape to seal the opening or gap between wood and ductwork