This Trick Will Make Your Bulkheads (Or Soffits) Look Intentional
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Today we're drywalling around lateral sewer line because you can't finish a basement ceiling without finishing around your mechanical systems. This is easier than you think when you use flexible aluminum framing to support your drywall. Watch the entire basement series 👉🏼 • Finish Your Basement S...
Thank you to Craftsman, the sponsor of today's video. Because of our sponsor we are able to renovate our friends Sam and G's basement while testing out Craftsman’s V20 complete tool line, specifically made for the DIYer. Sam and G built their beautiful home but after the lockdowns over the past few years their business suffered and as a result they were unable to finish their basement. We're super happy we could help them out AND film this awesome basement finishing series. You are going to love it!
Check out the Craftsman tools I am using on this project bit.ly/3T00HrC
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Adding a step bench like he uses in the video is one of the best tool investments I ever made. Being able to work off a flat surface instead of a ladder and reach a much larger work area without moving the ladder is incredibly helpful. They are not all that expensive in comparison to step ladders. Get yourself one that has adjustable legs so you can us it in stairwells and other uneven surfaces. Some even have outrigger legs that extend from the bottom of the ladder legs to give you extra lateral support so your platform does not tip over.
As always, great content! I used your framing system for bulkheads when I did my basement last year. People always comment how sharp it looks - nice straight lines and fits into the overall design. Thanks Jeff!
That’s awesome! Cheers
Always BRILLIANT Jeff!!! Your the greatest instructor. I’m a seasoned Journeyman carpenter and I learned more through you than anyone else. Cheers
Great Career choice my friend. Cheers!
I like to think that Jeff is a mythological being. He can't rest, until everything has been given his seal of approval. Thanks to the internet, he can make these videos and may one day finally rest.
In all seriousness, great video and great content. You're an inspiration on work ethic and working with positive outlooks.
Watching Jeff, it's like I'm watching myself. He talks to himself as much as I do while doing great work.
here's a tip for cutting steel studs - mark both sides as you did, then score the metal on the flat side with a utility knife, cut the edges, and then bend the stud back and forth to snap.
It's a lot of fun watching your videos! I'm a drywaller in Portugal, and you ROCK!
Thank you very much! Cheers to Portugal!
I've totally walked off the end of my work platform before and wondered what the hell was happening the entire time I was falling off of it! 🤣
happens to me all the time. Cheers!
I'm not planning on installing drywall ever... but this is so entertaining to watch! And to see all of the little tips and tricks if just mesmerizing. Really cool content as always!
This helps with repair as well.
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers!
Do the box all the way around the room and you've got yourself a fancy coffered ceiling
If you threw some cheap molding on top of that then people will think you're rich
Definitely an option. in this case we are finishing the same as the upstairs to create continuity. Cheers!
I want to build trey or coffered ceilings in my master bedroom and formal dining room
I was thinking this would be a great way to accomplish the task.
Yeah, if you have to have a drop ironically making it bigger or wrap around is often a better solution because then it looks purposeful!
I had a really ugly ceiling box in one room that I extended to the other end and put recessed lighting in. A bit of decorative molding and now it looks like a nice light bar instead of an eye sore.
Long time watcher! Always good content some of which I can use in my new log home
Once again another great video Jeff! Ingenuity at its finest!
Wow, thanks! Cheers David!
FX6 and falcon Eyes LED mats. Nice kit. Soffit build was also great ;-)
Great editing recently. It might seem more jumpy, but I appreciate the concise presentation.
I'd like to see how you finish out the septic clean out to make it look decent.
I have to drywall my whole attic, just had it insolated with Canadian Icynene, yes sir, and the tape looks great to use.
Ah well first the strapping and making it all straight.
You certenly apear to be much more relaxed, and thats good to see.
Life has been very stressful off camera lately, so I am glad to be on the other side of all that stress for sure. Cheers!
This is so relaxing to watch...and educational!
Very helpful and informative Jeff. I’ve used a few of your videos for my DIY projects!
Glad to help, Cheers!
I used your 2x2 method and it worked out great and made a very straight bulk head that is 30 ft long. Just curious when you would use aluminum studs over your old 2x2 method. Thanks for the videos, keep it up!
Quoting DMX lyrics up in here! 😂😂😂
You CAN have long runs of corner bead match up perfectly. It's real easy. I always keep scrap pieces of corner bead from cutoffs, cut them around 4 inches long, cut each end to a point/arrow, and snip along the edge so it is about half the normal width, slide it under the end of your first piece of corner bead, and when you put the next piece on, that scrap piece will keep them perfectly in line.
Beautifully done 😊❤
Thank you
If you're going to use metal, grab yourself some 2x2 angle for the bottom track and screw studs that span from one to the other to the hard side of your studs
I prefer accidental bulkheads. Give your house that " lived in, no idea what I am doing" look that makes homes so valuable!
😅😅😅
I can absolutely relate to this.
Cheers Sophia!
This is perfect timing. I see less yellow tools are you finding similar quality with the craftsman?
So the steel stud crimper tool simply secures the steel studs to make installing the peanut screws easier, correct?
If don't have time to wait for the PL to gule to the beam, you can dry fit some wood in there. You just cut the corners off the wood at teh back to account for the curve in the steel, and use a sledge hammer to whack them in. I use this when attaching joist to the sides of I-beams. Easy easy and takes just a few minutes cutting wood to the right size and shape.
I stead of making ladders, cut OSB panels on a table saw to the depth of the bulckhead: you can cut it a bit short and use the level. Screw the OSB panel to your 2x4 you attached to the floor joists, and now you have your sides done. Last set is to attach a metal stud to the inside of the OSB panel. There you can make everything perfectly level and straight. Attach the horizontal drywall the same was as in the video. Makes everything straght and solid. I also can add curves to the bulckheads: makes it look real nice.
Cut a strip of drywall to create the drop then another piece of 1”5/8 track for the bottom edge
Take that trowel off at Hawk you will cut your self open with it and only take a little bit of mud off from under the tape and by putting the extra coat on when it’s wet will let the tape move around and after it’s dry it will look wavy when you look down at edge !!
When I did my total renovation and addition to my house I used some metal studs but mostly 1 1/2 matal angle iron same gage as the metal studs but in boxing in a beam or ductwork horizontal and vertical I just attached the one in the corner to the drywall no studs between the angle iron the drywall can hold the weight as for those pan head screws they started out with one name and switched back and forth with waffer head on the box and it has always been hard to find them because you ask for one and it's called the other the new guys and most are new don't know what you want they come in 2 length 5/8 and. 1 5/8 5/8 is the usual size for joining metal studs and angle but I keep both in my truck as both are so handy I've used both in so many different situations even building my first motor home addition and later my quick budget handy bus conversion to a camper
great video
I really like your previous way of building bulks.
it works great for tough short spaces. this is better for 30' runs. Cheers!
I needed this video! 🙏 ❤
love you man!
I see you're promoting Craftsman products LOL
How do you recommend dealing with a bulkhead and a drop ceiling ?
Not a fan of steel studs but I get the benefits. I have my doubts that crimping for attaching studs is to code everywhere in NA.
i like it looks good man i do think i would've went 23 1/2 or 23 3/8 for the the finish 2 ft :)
i need to install a door frame under a soffit but i only have 83" from the floor up to the soffit can i just put a 2X4 for my header?
I thought you'd want to keep the drywall from touching the beam when you run it underneath so the sound energy doesn't transfer from the drywall directly into the beam.
In this case we have an open stairwell so not going to make any difference trying to use sound control measures other than impact noise from above. Cheers!
I used to build recording studios. In a residential situation, the transfer of sound energy would be negligible since anything with high mass (like steel beams) require enormous amounts of energy to be put in motion and transfer those vibrations elsewhere. Also, sound travels through various mediums differently. While diaphragmatic transfer can be significant with some noises like foot falls or lower frequency sounds, air leakage is also a huge culprit. It's a matter of chasing the weaker links first.
How would you fix directly into concrete? My ceiling and walls are concrete… how can i box directly onto them without using rawl plugs?
Awesome video, this is great timing for me! What kind of spacing do you need to do with this method around a heating or return duct?
only enough to add insulation if that is needed for sound control.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY perfect thanks much!! I wasn't sure if you had to worry about more space so the drywall doesn't heat up.
The steel I beam is clearly 250mm (9-13/16) tall. It only doesn't make sense if you don't use metric system.
Are you using USG Plus 3 for taping? This video came at a great time... I've been planning on a bulkhead project in my garage!
Great video Jeff as usual! What’s your opinion on installing bathroom ceramic ceiling tile? Wondering if you can do a video on it one of these days? Cheers
Hows those new craftsman drill n impacts im a makita guy I have some m12 tools from milwaukee but i just bought a new battery powered craftsmans sliding wet saw an shes beautiful batteries seem good really thinking about getting craftsman tools all my others have a few good years on them still strong but everyone knows how that goes
Thanks for sticking that song in my head.... ♫♪ y'all gon make me act a FOOL - up in HERE... up in here ♪♫
Weirdly I am framing a bulkhead tomorrow and just bought some of this stuff.
Basement
Did craftsman sponsor you or are you just trying their line ? Basically the same as DeWalt but DeWalt has been my trusted line for so long
I just recently finished my basement as well. For the bulkheads (ladders), i built them all on the floor in 8’ sections, and just lifted them into place and secured them. Looks great and lets you do most of the work on the floor instead of on a ladder. Mine are framed with wood.
Where are the dewalt drills
Why not use 2x4s "wood" inside the steel stud channel...just cut on a chop saw and install with drywall screws..way faster
"Tight to the steel" is more important than you think in 7' high basements with big steel beams bringing it down to 6-4 or even lower. That is talking as one who is 6-4 and has seen guys 6-5 or maybe taller bouncing their noggins on crazy low box-ins built by shorter humans. And believe it or not - partition walls and even doors added in below that make for even greater 3 stooges slapstick routines.
Great video, tons of good info Jeff. Question: my bulkhead happens to be 60" wide, inlcudes heat, return and HRV hard piping. I was going to use your old system with OSB, 2x2 as I only have 3" between the hvac runs. Could I use steel on either side and OSB in the middle?
When your putting on the 2nd coat of mud before letting it dry, doesn't your outside corner do some crazy stuff, flatten out, ect.?
sometimes , however if you want perfect corners use the 45 mud to cover and then a second coat. Cheers!
Great Video and tips! Are you using 1/2" or 5/8" drywall? We use 5/8 " firecode for ceilings and especially around structural - is that required for your work too? Thanks for all the tips - great content. Cheers.
Hmm... I always thought one should put up the ceiling first, then walls.
Double snap the line bro
Where did u get the hawk tool?
I’d love a link for that tool as well. Haven’t been able to find anything via browser searches.
Been loving the content, Jeff! My hot & cold ducting are too close together to fit any support between them for my basement finish project. I am looking at an almost 6' wide soffit to hide them. What should I do to avoid sagging drywall underneath for such a big span with no midline support? Thanks and keep it up!
Did you find a solution?
@@jpjp3873 I am going to run 2x4's across the bottom every 16". It may be overkill but I have leftover lumber from framing walls.
@@tomd3022 is there any room at all between ducts? I saw a great solution by cutting 7/16 osb and nailing 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 material to form a kind of I beam that can slide up between and screw into floor joists with a long extension. It worked out great for my basement.
wait wait wait... that 45* wall, did I see the outside corner of the drywall itself cut to a 45 degree angle!? If so, I'd REALLY like to see how to do that!
The easiest thing is to leave the sheet longer and flush cut it with an oscillating tool
What would be the negative of using that mud tape everywhere. Not just the corners. Other than price of course.
Seeing your video, I feel very professional. We have a ceiling fan lamp (you can see his appearance on my homepage). If you can use it in the process of introducing decoration, we will send it to you for free. Hope to get you introduction
More DMX please haha
Beginning: Don’t need a laser, it’s steel, it’s perfectly flat.
4:00 it’s not perfectly straight. If there’s steel there, there’s going to be movement. It only took him four minutes to get back to reality, lol.
There are no straight lines in nature. Making things look straight is an art that some guys have from continued attempts over years of hard work. Us DIY types just have to do our best.
13:55 LMAO!
How are the Craftsman tools working? My uncle was a higher up at one point and we kinda joke in our family if he was part of the reason they went out of business.
What were those giant scissors you used?
Looks like normal old-school snips to me.
At around 24:15
@@YellowBunchofBananas yeah they are old-style tin snips. you can find modern aviation snips that do the same.
seems like a lot of work compared to wood and metal corner beads
why not just build the bulkheads out of 2x4 and 7/16 osb? would have taken you half the time and just use a ramset to fasten to the beam. You can make sure its straight by using a chalk line on the edge.
12:52 lol
When you mark measurements on drywall ONLY USE PENCIL ✏️ if you use marker or pen it will bleed through the primer and paint
(Please don’t ask me how I know this.)
That’s why you hit it with Killz primer. Stops it from bleeding through. Works every time.
Craftsman sponsorship Jeff? No Dewalt😢
I bet you are a very costly contractor but a neat one
You get what you pay for.
Bulkheads. Why are we wasting money on bathroom vanity lights? Could I not build a bulkhead with slim recessed lights over my bathroom vanity mirror? The idea is simplistic/minimalist, modern, easy to clean, and never outdated.
Did Craftsman take offence at your safety squints 😆
Why didn’t just use rivets ?
To eliminate extra steps of drilling then riveting, requiring more stuff to be bought and kept stocked up. Saves money and hassle in the end since you'll already have screws on hand.
Paper tape on an outside corner?? WTH ??
***Sponsored by craftsman***
14:03 i downloaded the wrong Bulk head video 😫
Soffit is the underside of your roofs overhang 🙄
Those Milwaukee bits are weak and strip out more than a lot others
👍👍
Ok so at the 20:00 mark, you say the name of the tape you're going to use, but you talk too fast and it's hard to hear what you said. You also didn't list in the description what tape you used or, surprisingly,y where you could get it.
Stop stringing is along
I thought you were supposed to add drywall to the ceiling before the walls, so that the walls help hold the ceiling corners? I feel like I remember you mentioning that in other videos. Is there a reason you did the walls first?
Cheers, thanks for the video!
I believe it's because of the smaller pieces, he does recommend full spans of ceiling first when starting in the other drywall video mentioned just before this one.
In this case the ceiling will be finished with wood so that explains that! Cheers!
Another fantastic video! As luck would have it, I am tackling this exact same project in my basement. I have already started the framing and took a chance and went with aluminum studs. This video reassured me that the work I have done is on the right path and solved 2 big pain points/blockers for me: 1) Securing the bulkhead framing to a wall 2) Making the corners look good. Between this and your soundproofing videos, I have a lot to go on. Thank you very much as always, Jeff!
What width of steel did you use? My basement beam is about 30 foot length so i need three 10 foot lengths, just not sure of the width to use
hey where did you get that hawk from,,,make it? or buy it?
Happy New Year Jeff and Family :)
May you never have to have to use that clean out. As a former Sewer Company owner. I would never open that cleanout. Simply from its location it would be an absolute nightmare to clean. I would leave that one to another company who enjoys taking a ummmm shower. You need to put a clean out from the floor above. Since your line will be full of sewage you open that cleanout which looks like its below grade...you will fill up your basement with sewage...
Since I am not on location. I may be wrong.
The Master of Plaster, Lord of dry wall, the King of Ceilings!!!
Jeff!!!!!
That's way too complicated.
I don't like how flimsy the metal framing is for bulkheads. I understand that it's okay and works but I prefer forking over a bit more cash and have the framing done with wood. This is especially true for areas where the bulkhead might go over a gym and you might want to hang things solidly on the side of the bulkhead, like pull up bars. Otherwise, having it solid is also useful for hanging other things like TV's as well, or shelves, etc.
I was just wondering if you ever walk off the end of the ladder when you said to watch out for that HAHA I hate mudding because my mind goes numb and I do walk off the end HAHA
Very helpful with great tips as always! 👍👍
I watched your videos back in 2019-2020 when working on my last house - it turned out great! We're about to close on the next one, and it's another fixer - couldn't do it without you. Thanks!
Where do you get the HAWKMATE in Canada?
I got mine at Gratien Proulx in Ottawa. they have a great drywall showroom there. Cheers!
“This $20 tool replaces the need to hire someone…” that is one reason I love Thorman videos! Another reason…Jeff talking to himself is worth a dozen books on the subject. Brilliant.
"up in here up in here...
I'm about to blow your mind"
Never thought I'd be getting DMX lyrics here 😳
I'm a Carpenter and I can tell you all this guy is proper tradesman.