thanks for making this. I like that you built one ladder in place and will add the bottom layer. makes a lot of sense for one I will have to do. now I can plan for materials
Another great video my friend. Love ALL of your content and I'm really glad I found your channel. Keep up the amazing work.!! I know it's been awhile since your videos on your subflooring for your basement, but do you care to share where you got those hurricane clips to hold each of your 4x8 Advantec sheets together
Thanks for the comments. Those are framing straps which should be available in any home improvement store which sells framing lumber and materials. I bought mine at Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Building-Hardware-Metal-Straps/N-5yc1vZaqta
This is really informative. For something like the gas pipe or copper water lines that run perpendicular to the floor joist, we conventionally use 1x3 strapping perpendicular to floor joist and then hang the sheetrock on that. I wanted to ask you how close the sheetrock can be to the pipes - is it okay if they are literally touching?
Thanks for the feedback and patience in reply. I did the same, and ran 2x2 strapping simply to ad a little more depth to allow space for the gas line and other utilities which ran under the joists above.
Fair point and agreed as long as you calculate the total suspended load of the soffit materials, drywall, etc. All depends on the load and construction method.
Thanks for the comment but not with this design. If you were using 2x connected to 2x then you would normally butt the cross members which gives you at least 3/4" thk. material when fastened with nails or screws through the ladder and into the end-grain of the cross member. In this case we are using 1x to save as much overhead as possible: if those were butted then you are fastening into the 3/4" total material giving only 3/8" thk. only each side of the fastener. With the weight of the drywall this will support we want to nail/screw through the face of the 1x and into the 2x bottom rail of the ladder for added strength. If you are thinking this is any issue for finishing it is not at all. This soffit is purely decorative and when you lap the drywall at the corners and then also reinforce with corner bead it is well more than rigid and durable.
@@Buffalo-J Yep, you are correct. It amazes me how sometimes people don't think things through these days and just go with status quo. It appears you have done your homework, and from one engineer to another, good work!
Good observation and point, and I should have explained this more in the video so maybe I'll do a follow-up. Generally the rules in framing is "do not end nail in a suspended load". In principle I completely agree and this as a general rule is what jobsite crews and construction managers are taught so they do not need to think or worry about how I need to nail this particular piece; "just do it this way all the time". However, end nailing is well known and studies for decades and can easily be applied to any design if it's designed properly (there's many resources available in this with original formulations going back to the 1930s). In this case, I calculated the design loads for the project with the results as follows so I have absolute confidence. In short, with three ladders built with 16" stud spacing supporting each 60"x40"x1/2" suspended drywall section, this equates to a load of 2.67lb/nail. I also used annular thread (ring shank) nails which give 1.5X the withdrawal force of smooth nails, so using the empirical formulations for end grain in a dry SPF wood product with worst case SG=0.35, and the 3" ring shank nails I have a safety factor of 37 which is massive. I did not want to get into this in the video as many would probably be bored with this, but maybe a good idea as a follow up. Thanks!
thanks for making this. I like that you built one ladder in place and will add the bottom layer. makes a lot of sense for one I will have to do. now I can plan for materials
Love this makes a big difference
Another great video my friend. Love ALL of your content and I'm really glad I found your channel. Keep up the amazing work.!! I know it's been awhile since your videos on your subflooring for your basement, but do you care to share where you got those hurricane clips to hold each of your 4x8 Advantec sheets together
Thanks for the comments. Those are framing straps which should be available in any home improvement store which sells framing lumber and materials. I bought mine at Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Building-Hardware-Metal-Straps/N-5yc1vZaqta
@Buffalo J thanks again for the information. I really do appreciate it.
Great information that should translate to lots of different situations. What about the black pipe outside the ladder?
The gas pipe is covered by the ceiling. It's only about an inch diameter so was easily concealed with the sleepers I used.
Awesome content!
Glad you enjoyed it
This is really informative. For something like the gas pipe or copper water lines that run perpendicular to the floor joist, we conventionally use 1x3 strapping perpendicular to floor joist and then hang the sheetrock on that. I wanted to ask you how close the sheetrock can be to the pipes - is it okay if they are literally touching?
Thanks for the feedback and patience in reply. I did the same, and ran 2x2 strapping simply to ad a little more depth to allow space for the gas line and other utilities which ran under the joists above.
@@Buffalo-J thanks. Ending up using 2x4 throughout
Awesome
Thanks.
what will you do with the gas pipe which is out of soffit while installing drywalls?
It is under the ceiling as are other lower hanging utilities. That will be shown in another video.
You can frame soffits with one by fours. 2x4’s are a waist of money and overkill for soffits
Fair point and agreed as long as you calculate the total suspended load of the soffit materials, drywall, etc. All depends on the load and construction method.
Are you in Canada or USA?
When building your soffits with the nailing gun, what size nails did you use?
3" ribbed shank framing nails. My soffit frame was end-nailed so ribbed shank here as opposed to smooth shank.
Your ladder is wrong over duct! The 1x’s need to be nailed flush to the 2x’s!
Thanks for the comment but not with this design. If you were using 2x connected to 2x then you would normally butt the cross members which gives you at least 3/4" thk. material when fastened with nails or screws through the ladder and into the end-grain of the cross member. In this case we are using 1x to save as much overhead as possible: if those were butted then you are fastening into the 3/4" total material giving only 3/8" thk. only each side of the fastener. With the weight of the drywall this will support we want to nail/screw through the face of the 1x and into the 2x bottom rail of the ladder for added strength. If you are thinking this is any issue for finishing it is not at all. This soffit is purely decorative and when you lap the drywall at the corners and then also reinforce with corner bead it is well more than rigid and durable.
@@Buffalo-J Yep, you are correct. It amazes me how sometimes people don't think things through these days and just go with status quo. It appears you have done your homework, and from one engineer to another, good work!
You end nailed a ladder that's going to have something hanging off it? you realize nails have very poor pull out strength
Good observation and point, and I should have explained this more in the video so maybe I'll do a follow-up. Generally the rules in framing is "do not end nail in a suspended load". In principle I completely agree and this as a general rule is what jobsite crews and construction managers are taught so they do not need to think or worry about how I need to nail this particular piece; "just do it this way all the time". However, end nailing is well known and studies for decades and can easily be applied to any design if it's designed properly (there's many resources available in this with original formulations going back to the 1930s). In this case, I calculated the design loads for the project with the results as follows so I have absolute confidence. In short, with three ladders built with 16" stud spacing supporting each 60"x40"x1/2" suspended drywall section, this equates to a load of 2.67lb/nail. I also used annular thread (ring shank) nails which give 1.5X the withdrawal force of smooth nails, so using the empirical formulations for end grain in a dry SPF wood product with worst case SG=0.35, and the 3" ring shank nails I have a safety factor of 37 which is massive. I did not want to get into this in the video as many would probably be bored with this, but maybe a good idea as a follow up. Thanks!
Or you could use wood screws