By far the soffit ladders were the toughest part of the framing for me. I used 2x2 thinking it would be lighter and easier to handle. That was true, but I had to battle bowing of the wood. When I put up the dry wall I'll have to shim some spots to make the drywall plumb in some spots. Tough lesson learned.
yeah someone had given me a heads up to build the soffits as strong as possible by using 2x4. i only did one small section using 2x2 but that was only one side of a soffit and it was due to the small area where it could attach to the joist
I got all of my lumber from Lowes. My longest bottom plate was 9 feet long because I built all of the walls myself and didn't want to try and stand up 12-16 foot sections and move them into place. good luck, you can do it!
I mean cool and all... But, there's these fancy inclined planes wrapped around a nail called screws, they're used for things like screwing soffits to ceilings so there's no chance of ever coming apart. You wouldn't nail drywall to a ceiling, so why nail a soffit?
I spent a good bit of time drawing out where I wanted to put walls and then calculated linear feet of walls. I then used that number to estimate the number of 2x4s and how many treated boards. The last part was when I estimated the soffits, basically using the same scheme. At the end of all that, I took the final numbers of 2x4s and added 10% to that 😂
I'm in the mid-atlantic region. so I'd say it's moderate, we get all 4 seasons here. I'm not putting down a subfloor. Part of the basement will be LVP and the remainder will be carpeted.
2:47 why is that steel beam so close to the exterior wall. What is the point of using a beam that is so close to the exterior wall. Exterior wall is better at carrying loads than any beam out there.
Not sure. The home builder designed it and built it that way. I suspect it is built that way because that area is a 4 foot bump out and is where the original foundation wall would have been without the bump out. So maybe structurally the floors above are counting on having support in that area
Pretty smart using the clamps to do this solo. 👍🏼 good video!
Thanks 👍
By far the soffit ladders were the toughest part of the framing for me. I used 2x2 thinking it would be lighter and easier to handle. That was true, but I had to battle bowing of the wood.
When I put up the dry wall I'll have to shim some spots to make the drywall plumb in some spots. Tough lesson learned.
yeah someone had given me a heads up to build the soffits as strong as possible by using 2x4. i only did one small section using 2x2 but that was only one side of a soffit and it was due to the small area where it could attach to the joist
.. thanks for the tip!
Good job sir, I enjoyed watching your video.
Glad you enjoyed it
I LOVE THE VIDEO WELL DONE..
Thanks for watching
For the first 10 seconds I was like “Pedro Pascal does reno videos on YT??” This is the way…
This is the way
Thanks for the video. How did your project turn out? I’m JUST ABOUT ready to begin my soffit ladder framing stage
turned out great, i have a couple of videos on my channel of the finished product
Do u put plywood on the soffit or not a good idea since it's a basement?
You can do either, I've seen people do both ways. I did not wrap the soffit with plywood, only drywall
Where did you get your lumber. And what is your longest bottom plate. Getting ready to start my basement
I got all of my lumber from Lowes. My longest bottom plate was 9 feet long because I built all of the walls myself and didn't want to try and stand up 12-16 foot sections and move them into place.
good luck, you can do it!
What size of the lumber you use?
there is a mix of 2x4x8' and some 2x4x104 5/8". vertical wall studs use the 104 5/8"
I mean cool and all... But, there's these fancy inclined planes wrapped around a nail called screws, they're used for things like screwing soffits to ceilings so there's no chance of ever coming apart. You wouldn't nail drywall to a ceiling, so why nail a soffit?
The soffits are nailed both vertically and laterally
Did you do duck pipe work for heating/cooling yourself?
No, I ended up subbing out the HVAC work
Was the first-level ductwork shared with the basement ductwork? Thank you !
How did you estimate how much wood to buy?
I spent a good bit of time drawing out where I wanted to put walls and then calculated linear feet of walls.
I then used that number to estimate the number of 2x4s and how many treated boards.
The last part was when I estimated the soffits, basically using the same scheme.
At the end of all that, I took the final numbers of 2x4s and added 10% to that 😂
@@PlatoonGarage thank you
Are you located in a warm climate? Are you planning on doing a subfloor?
I'm in the mid-atlantic region. so I'd say it's moderate, we get all 4 seasons here.
I'm not putting down a subfloor. Part of the basement will be LVP and the remainder will be carpeted.
@@PlatoonGarage I also get four seasons in Toronto. I was looking at the dricore subfloor panels for my basement.
@@phumes4783 can't go wrong with that
@@PlatoonGarage take a look at dmx airflow, I'm putting in down now and really like it
2:47 why is that steel beam so close to the exterior wall. What is the point of using a beam that is so close to the exterior wall. Exterior wall is better at carrying loads than any beam out there.
Not sure. The home builder designed it and built it that way. I suspect it is built that way because that area is a 4 foot bump out and is where the original foundation wall would have been without the bump out.
So maybe structurally the floors above are counting on having support in that area