For the ubar, which way is it being placed into the tracks? The angle aspect of it throws me off a bit. Thanks so much! Also, the self tapping metal screws would hold well in the joists and studs? Do you mind sharing a link to those screws you'd use? Thank youu!
The self tapping screws are only about a 1/4". You want to use fine thread drywall screws to attach to the framing. www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin--6-x-1-1-4-inch-flat-head-phillips-drive-coarse-thread-drywall-screws-8000pcs/1000105722 I'll post a pick of the ubar in the community page.
When you secure the first steel track on the ceiling do you make sure it is same distance from wall all along? What if wall is crooked? Take same measure on both ends and laser in between?
It depends on what you’re using as your bench mark. Yes, you laser it equal distance from both ends but you may want to go off the opposite wall of it is straight. I’ll put something together this week and post it for you either in the community post or on Shorts.
So, if you have your side piece cut extra long and fastened at the top doesn't it wiggle when you cut it to the final size? If you score it with a knife do you need to support the backside?
If you leave it so it hangs 2.5" or 3" down from your laser line and score it with a new blade it will break easier. You want to be sure you have a screw in on the top piece of steel track every 12" - 16". I've got a bunch of footage on doing bulkheads but it's not fully together. I'm going to build almost like a mock up wall section in my garage next month and bulkheads/soffitts will be part of it.
Someone once told my your hands are only doing what your eyes tell them. So, I keep my eye on the line but also cut the initial piece of board about 2-3” past what I need and keep my index finger on the board while I’m running the knife to steady it while cutting. Lots of practice helps too.
Hello, thanks for the advice. My stee ' I ' beams are 32' long. For bulkhead walls (perpendicular to the ceiling) they will be horizontal 12' x 8.5 inches, do I need to screw 24" on centre or the top and the bottom track screws would be sufficient with only stud at 12 feet on centre? Thanks🙏
Thanks for the reply, I am using method 2 which you explain from 8:45 onwards . Thanks for the info I was a little confused, I get it now no ladders required, only the bulkhead bottom will require extra support for over 24". Thanks again. An actual video of the method would really help. Thanks. 👍
Thank you. It was very helpful.
I'm hopefully going to do another video that demonstrates it in real life after Xmas.
Excellent explaination! Finishing my basement utility room now to make an office for myself. This was even better than Jeff from Home RenoVision! ;)
Wow, I appreciate the compliment. Eventually, I'll get around to making a live action part 2 of this.
Seeing what the materials you are talking about would have been nice. This doesn't sound like it would be any faster than just framing it up.
I’m hoping to do a demonstration tutorial of it over the summer. That’ll provide more clarity. Thanks for your insight.
11:26
I would hang wires from the hat track in the middle for support similar to acoustic tile ceiling grid.
That’s an interesting idea!
For the ubar, which way is it being placed into the tracks? The angle aspect of it throws me off a bit. Thanks so much! Also, the self tapping metal screws would hold well in the joists and studs? Do you mind sharing a link to those screws you'd use?
Thank youu!
The self tapping screws are only about a 1/4". You want to use fine thread drywall screws to attach to the framing.
www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin--6-x-1-1-4-inch-flat-head-phillips-drive-coarse-thread-drywall-screws-8000pcs/1000105722
I'll post a pick of the ubar in the community page.
When you secure the first steel track on the ceiling do you make sure it is same distance from wall all along? What if wall is crooked? Take same measure on both ends and laser in between?
It depends on what you’re using as your bench mark. Yes, you laser it equal distance from both ends but you may want to go off the opposite wall of it is straight. I’ll put something together this week and post it for you either in the community post or on Shorts.
Awesome video thanks for the great advice.
Thanks Patty!
So, if you have your side piece cut extra long and fastened at the top doesn't it wiggle when you cut it to the final size?
If you score it with a knife do you need to support the backside?
If you leave it so it hangs 2.5" or 3" down from your laser line and score it with a new blade it will break easier. You want to be sure you have a screw in on the top piece of steel track every 12" - 16". I've got a bunch of footage on doing bulkheads but it's not fully together. I'm going to build almost like a mock up wall section in my garage next month and bulkheads/soffitts will be part of it.
How are you accurately cutting the first piece of drywall along the laser line?
Someone once told my your hands are only doing what your eyes tell them. So, I keep my eye on the line but also cut the initial piece of board about 2-3” past what I need and keep my index finger on the board while I’m running the knife to steady it while cutting. Lots of practice helps too.
Hello, thanks for the advice. My stee ' I ' beams are 32' long. For bulkhead walls (perpendicular to the ceiling) they will be horizontal 12' x 8.5 inches, do I need to screw 24" on centre or the top and the bottom track screws would be sufficient with only stud at 12 feet on centre? Thanks🙏
Hmmm, are you building the bulkhead walls like a ladder? I feel like I may have failed in describing my method.
Thanks for the reply, I am using method 2 which you explain from 8:45 onwards . Thanks for the info I was a little confused, I get it now no ladders required, only the bulkhead bottom will require extra support for over 24". Thanks again. An actual video of the method would really help. Thanks. 👍
Should the steel track be 25-Gauge? Al so what size u-bar should be used?
Hi Robert, shoot me an email at basementcoach@gmail.com. I'll send you links to what I use. Cheers, Bill
Confused, would be better with short track pieces screwed together instead of drawings.
I’m going to do a part 2 that shows the actual construction of it in a few weeks.
Here's a video that shows the actual process in a real build: ruclips.net/video/jcwaI18ngeY/видео.html
It’s similar in idea but not the same execution. What we have posted is what’s done in custom homes. I’ll have another video up in the coming months.
Im using wood
The old fashion way still works pretty good.
@@basementcoach
Your explanation was very detailed but confusing for this old man