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Thank you so much! I plan on finishing my basement this year. I have all your basement videos saved in a folder. I promise to do before and after photos.
Jeff!! My name is also Jeff! Now that we have that out of the way, THANK YOU. You’ve validated everything I’ve watched or heard on this subject in the past few weeks. I’m half way through ripping my basement apart , built in the 80s and you’re exactly right. No vapour barriers of any kind. And it’s surprisingly dry but musty lately. A few signs of mould starting. Time to make some big changes. I’ll keep you posted on progress
When I was learning renovation work, I was told to treat the concrete itself as liquid. I see that forgotten often in many situations. I love your explanation and system as it accounts for this. If you have no vapor/moisture barrier under your slab or outside your walls, then moisture will wick through your walls and floor. If you have a vapor barrier and insulation outside, then moisture in the concrete needs to go somewhere, and since it cannot go out, it's going to go in.
Valuable information on insulating a basement. One thing I would like for you to mention is egress. I know this really is about the finish product, but in most local building codes, basement living space requires 2-forms of egress; stair case and windows (this is not for walk out basements). DYI, please keep this in mind before deep investments of finishing off the basement. The foam board is such an advantage to finishing off basement walls these days. I love Rockwool insulation in the framing bays (agree cost is more expensive). I love the ease of installment, fire proof and holds up great if you have a flood. Great video!
Love your videos. I used those drycore floor squares and had a beam pocket leak. It made its way down the wall and under the floor and in a low spot, then soaked up the seam and swelled the wood. Not a full water proof system like when you rolled out the dimple sheet.
Great content, thanks Jeff! Would you consider also doing a video on how to frame floating basement walls (required in places like Colorado with expansive soils), and also touching on how to solve tricky floating issues around doors, floor cabinets and tub/shower bases?
I used the foam wall system about 10 years ago on my previous home and it works wonderfully. Just started at our new home and I'm using the exact system here. Bonus points, if you are in Canada the system shown will get you about $1700 in rebates and the insulation for the walls is almost free in the end. Priced out the materials to do this and it will be
Man, I was literally just thinking of finding a vapor barrier and installing LVP over my concrete floor in the basement of my 1968 home ... Glad I found this video and did my research on it.
I'm about 75% done finishing my basement out, and your videos have been a Godsend! I've probably watched 80+ hours of them over the past 6 months! As this is my first real home improvement project, it's been unbelievably helpful walking me through all the various processes (And helping me decide when getting a professional was the right choice haha). My Question is - I'm deciding to cheat and not do a subfloor system as my townhome is only about 5 years old. I'm in Utah. Do you have an LVP underlayment system that you heavily prefer?
best choice is anything with a cork backing. floor and decor sells a cork underlayment in a roll. 2nd option 3mm eva underpad for sound control. Cheers!
I have superior walls in my home. Built in 98. I didn't realize I could use fiberglass in between studs. Didn't know it had a vapor barrier in concrete. Thank you!
really wish basements were more commonly added to new housing, but then again not like i can afford a house as a mid 20s man of only one salary in Oregon. When the time comes all the videos I binge of yours will come in handy for sure.
I did a dritek floor system or something. Cleated 2x2 osb board basically. I couldn't get a contractor to do them, so I did...pretty easy project to be honest. Definitely worth it too in terms of warm floors all year long.
Thanks Jeff! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a 1950s house on Long Island, NY and while not looking for a heavy use living space in the basement, I want a nice option to throw some darts and bang on a drum kit. Cheers
The house I bought had that type of insulation (what I call as roofing I insulation) and it got wet and smelly. Threw it all out, threw the cheap picture paneling out too. Put in styrofoam insulation, painted the walls with waterproof paint n sealer. Then put up nice 1/4” thick real wood paneling. 💯 better basement now. And and a good dehumidifier!
Thanks, im currently doing a makeover of the basement and these are great tip. im halfway done (subfloor with thermal barrier, and rigid insulation on the wall so far) and can already feel a big difference. one issue i ran in were the Tapcon screw snapping on me. i first used the 3/16 3inch screw and before i could get any compression (head of screw inbedding inside the osb) it would just snap off, so i went back to buy 1/4 3 inch screw instead and they worked much better. Overall this system seems to works great so far, cant wait to be all done.
This is explained in a way even I understand it. 🙂 I have a ranch style home in Virginia built in the early 1970's. I'm going to be finishing the basement so I can have that added value when I go to sell it in a few years. Thanks for this video, it's just what I needed!!!
Hey ! We actually went a slightly different route at the end of the day but most of it still applies. We installed the subfloor of dimpled membrane with 5/8” OSB on top about 1” to the concrete wall (different everywhere cause the concrete is not straight at all!). Then, built the 2x4 wall, 2” from the concrete (again not consistently since we used a laser level to ensure a perfectly straight wall; highly recommend this) and hired a company to spray foam 3” of closed cell spray foam. This obviously got rid of the moisture issues potentially hitting the wood as the spray foam went to the floor but what we were likely planning on doing otherwise is doing a vapour barrier around the OSB and tucking is under the walls sill plate to prevent any moisture issues down the road. Just have to say though that the method of using simple membrane with OSB on top is unbelievably genius! The floor is significantly warmer and nice to walk in similar to a ground or second floor with a bit of cushion; unlike concrete.
I’m a new member here, and wow - great stuff! We live in Winnipeg, house built in 1949 and we’re looking at a similar approach having a 3rd party spray foam the basement’s concrete foundation walls. Jeff, I’ve seen you talk about the wall insulation solution where 2” R-10 rigid foam is attached with blobs of LePage PL 300 to the concrete, then walls are framed and insulated with pink fibreglass, which leaves an air gap between the concrete wall and rigid foam, allowing moisture from the under the subfloor to travel up the walls to evaporate. No mould! Question for Jeff: With a raised subfloor option like Dricore or “dimpled membrane with OSB” that provides an air gap along the floor and allows moisture to travel underneath, what is the impact when spray foam covers the walls and seals at the floor, thereby eliminating the air gap along the wall?
I’ve been watching your videos off and on now for the last few months and have found them to be incredibly informative and well explained. I’m going to start work on my basement this year using your videos. I plan on becoming a member of your website to take advantage of the Q&A. Keep up the great work!
Hi Jeff, thank you soooo much for all your content. It really helps to know what's going on, whether I do it myself or end up hiring somebody out. Are you going to do a video on a basement subfloor for an old house when the basement is extremely uneven, especially near a floor drain(3-5 in slope)? Most the videos that I've seen you do, the concrete appears relatively level and could be adjusted using a grinder or leveling compound.
I recently did a mold remediation job on a basement that had drainage mat and plywood. The water had gotten higher than the mat was essentially turning it into a thousand tiny swimming pools that never drain. It also soaked the plywood causing it to rot and mold. I tell people all the time if they want bomb proof flooring in a basement tile is the only way to go. You can install vinyl planks and when the water comes, and it will, your at the mercy of whatever untrained monkey is going to trying to dismantle your planks to try to "save" them. The newer system seems to make more sense only for the fact that its a smaller product and in the event it gets wet there would be less to replace. Just my 2 cents though. Thanks for the vid and looking forward to watching the water testing.
I'm glad you mentioned this. Since basement floors have high and low spots once water gets in the low spot I suspect it will remain there. Example: One third of my floor pitches towards the sump pump. the other third is relatively flat while the remainder dips towards the corners and perimeter. I don't see how these areas could ever dry out. And it's amazing how much water is in those low areas. Don't ask how I know!
Agreed I did cheap planks in my basement got semi flooded and had to tear it all out. I replaced it with tile if it ever gets wet or water it's soaks it right up.
Pls add small pics of the products u give examples of as u speak of them e.g vapour barrier , waterproof membrane, subfloors etc . Love your videos. Keep ‘em coming.
I love the explanation and watching this channel. Since I am not that good at construction projects and very impatient, I am spending the extra money on the Dricore system.
This is so different than what our basement company did here in the North East. We have a 1950's basement and they used 6" steel studs with R19 throughout. They also just laid the vinyl plank flooring directly to the slab. The space is conditioned with a mini split unit that does heating, cooling and dehumidification. Time will tell how it holds up. Basement has no indication of moisture or musty smell. I can confirm no water events since 2003.
It's great to see that a lot of my plan for my basement office is consistent with your advice. But it looks like I can butt the framing right up against the foam board and not leave a half inch gap which I had initially planned.
If you are an engineer building a new house, consider insulating outside the foundation and under the floor. This makes the concrete an asset rather than a liability by adding thermal mass inside the home making it more passive. Materials vary by climate and the amount of foundation exposed, but it is essential to put a metal termite barrier at the top.
You are a god when it comes to building these things out. Please dont leave youtube behind and please continue to teach us about this realm!!! With the way the world is hiking up inflation and the housing market I literally have to build my own house when we move because itll be cheaper. I and we appreciate your videos, keep'em coming!
Hey Jeff big fan of your channel, I work in new home construction and with the builders I've worked for and the others I have observed they do not install vapour barrier underneath the basement concrete. Unless a client/purchaser asks for it but its not a common thing I've seen in the industry.
A video on Basement steps would be great. I Recently bought an older home (1960s) and a few steps are loose/split. Looking to replace the planks or even redo the whole staircase if materials are priced decent.
Jeff I have been a fan for many years. This is my first comment ever - I just could not keep silent. The advice on finishing the basement wall you provide is plain dangerous. The warm air will come into the gap at the top cool down as it passes the cavity and move down to exit at the bottom as it becomes heavier. While that is happening moisture from the warm air will condense on the cold concrete wall. There will be a waterfall between the concrete and the insulation in winter. The only way to not have condensation in winter is to isolate warm air from the cold concrete wall. That can be done with continuous spray foaming or a tightly applied foam board with foamed joints and no gap at the top or slab. While you are correct about the minimum building code in cold climates the advice you are giving is to be avoided!
if you install the rigid foam all the way up to the joists and them lay r20 batt on the sill plate and 2 layers of rigid on the rim with foam you seal out warm air from having access in the winter. your thoughts on waterfall only happen if you fail to continue the insulation and vapor barriers. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY You are now talking about preventing the air from going in between the foam and the concrete wall. That's exactly my point. Why the whole story about intentionally leaving a gap? You are literally talking about air moving through that gap in the video...
I am saying that the air space will come into contact with the framing of the house which will then transfer it to the outside of the main floor and balance out the relative humidity. wood transfers water. Cheers!
Looking to re do my basement, have a handful of questions. I just joined and hoped we can converse soon. Have a great day! My wife and I enjoy your videos
basements in the Midwest here are not a lousy investment..When its always cold out its a great place to hang out and adds much value on one that is done right.Sold our last house about 5 years ago and i did an "open" concept basement.finished it all myself other than the finish of the drywall..We did nothing fancy,had good carpet,etc...People couldnt believe it and was one of the main reasons our house sold for asking and fast..Now if you pay someone to do all of it...then the return is not there but doing it yourself and doing it right it can really pay off. like reinventing the wheel with all you have going on there with the subfloor and foam board and then framing..suddenly your house just became smaller!wow..not saying there isnt a place for this,just saying its not reality and economical..
Ty very clear and to the point video. I will be doing exactly this in my basement. I really appreciate you for making this video and will now be a sub of your channel. Looking forward to watching more great videos like this.
Thanks for the video, Jeff - great content as always! What about for areas like steel columns? Would you use pressure treated plates around them directly on the concrete and then have the subfloor product abut against the pressure treated lumber? Or would you just bring the subfloor as close to the column as possible and then frame directly on top of the subfloor?
I'm planning on renovating the basement in my 1950 built house. no sump pump, no exterior water protection. Also haven't had water in the basement in the 10 years I've been there. Planning on Dricore subfloor and foam board on the exterior walls. To prevent damage from potential water events, I'm using as little organic materials as possible. I'll be steel studs, vinyl flooring, and rockwool in the stud bays. I think I'll be a winning combination. Only thing I have to figure it is synthetic alternatives to osb subfloor and drywall.
Do you have a floor drain? If there's a flooding event, the water should travel under the osb and drywall to the floor drain. You could also dig a sump pit and pump. Its involved obviously, and hauling dirt and concrete sucks, but it's not particularly difficult. There's a good This Old House episode on digging your own sump pump pit.
I had basically settled on following this exact plan before I even saw this. Grateful for the validation. One question: when framing out the walls onto the subfloor panels, should I just nail them to the subfloor panels? Or should I Tapcon or Ramset the bottom plates all the way down into the concrete?
Dricore recommends screwing the bottom plate to the subfloor with 2" wood screws and then tapcon/ramset through the bottom plate into the concrete with 3" anchors every 4'.
The Dricore product Insul-Armor looks to be a pretty solid product. Doesn’t need plywood/osb which saves money and precious height. Limits flooring options to only floating floors though.
did this a year and a half ago step for step, its great. suggested on NRCAN -keeping the heat in site as well. note for exterior walls. may want to treat with borax before. had ants get in somehow and they didn't eat but tunneled in a section. made it Swiss cheese. had to make tiny hole and spray/fill with insecticide. uncommon, seems to work though
I love the way you frame with the two types of insulation, but the thing I don’t like about that is it makes your windowsills a foot and a half deep by the time you’re all said and done.
I did this in my basement 15 years ago simply because 'it seemed like the best way to do it'. Everyone laughed at me and still do when I tell them the foundation is completely covered with foam board, then 2x4 studs and fiberglass insulation. Thanks for the validation with this video. Maybe I'm not an idiot after all! No subfloor for me as I don't see the benefit.
Did you also use the plastic vapour barrier behind the drywall. Because pink xps rigid foam is a vapour retarder. By doing Jeff's way your are sandwiching the fiberglass insulation between a vapour retarder and a vapour barrier.
my way is not creating a sandwich. since the barriers are not in touch with each other they do not cause condensation. Your understanding of building science is wrong. the wall stays completely dry!. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Jeff I think you are making bold statements against the building science. Don't get me wrong i know building science can be wrong at times but common logic says this is a bad idea. I would really like you to prove it wrong by doing a tear out of a wall system exactly like this. if you get a chance.
I just bought a house where half the basement is blanketed and half is framed. And I live in Ontario. Was clueless where to start. Couldn't be more relevant!
So I finished my basement 4 days ago and now we have drywall up. I did a ton of research and it seems like everyone has a different opinion, I talked to 4 local contractors, then did research online for my climate zone. I'll let you know in a few years if I have moisture issues. We did firing strips on concrete (it's a half wall concrete and then studs above) and filled that with rigid foam insulation with foil backing. Faced the foil to Interior of home. Firing strip rests just above concrete. No subfloor system, did carpet with vapor barrier pad. And LVP with padding. Fingers crossed, you have me all worried now.
there are plenty of ways to finish a basement that are good. this is just the best design I have found out there that solves a large number of problems no matter how old or new a house is and it does not have a down side in any situation. Cheers!
I have watched many of your videos on basement finish. What if you have in floor heat and icf in the basement? Would you finish that differently? I am working on finishing my basement and your videos are very helpful! I also live in Canada.
Hi Dan, new construction allows for ICF R 20 to 30 depending on your block. Radiant heating in floor means you also have a vapor barrier under the slab and probably insulation there as well. in your case you should simply install a vinyl plank with cork directly on the floor.
Question- my floor in the basement has an epoxy layer. Would it still be recommended to us the subfloor system or can I just lay the vynil floor on top ?
Hi Jeff, great video!! Thanks for making it. I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it better to waterproof the wall with DRYLOK extreme and then follow all the instructions in this video? 2. How do we install frame on top of the subfloor as you mentioned in the video? Thanks I’m advance!
I just became a member and love your video above. I have a few questions: 1) Does the Foam Board need to be 2" R10 or can it be 1.5" R7.50 2) Should I tape the foam board to the Dri-Core or use Great Stuff Insulating Foam 3) you mention using a vapour barrier, but the government site says I should use a Smart Barrier. Should I use one and if so which should I buy? P.S. I will be using Rockwool R14 between the studs.
all you need is r 7.5 for the rigid. and for best results in older houses use the subfloor and then install the rigid on top or leave a gap to slide it under. seal with a thin window foam so seal and not fill the air cavity. Not sure where you live so I can't comment on the barrier. always follow local building code. Cheers!
Thanks for the updated video Jeff !!! This makes a lot of sense... even for a French guy !hahaha ... so the question remains... If I want to install a subfloor in the basement but the walls are already finished... do I still leave a 1/4" gap between the subfloor and the drywall ? Thanks again and sorry for all the questions in multiple videos ! Best!
Hi Carl if you have walls already and you have a waterproofing system on the exterior then try the new dricore thermal panel . it is lightweight and has no osb on it. install like an underlayment and lay flooring directly on top. Cheers!
Jeff great video. I have a 1950’s rambler in Washington State that someone converted a slab on grade garage to a master bedroom, so no vapor barrier,They put vinyl plank flooring with cork backing no pad/vapor barrier underneath. 6 months after moving in we moved decorative rug in the room and noticed mold growing in straight lines on the underside that matched joint lines of the plank floor below. Now ripping out the floor leaving the exposed 74 year old concrete slab. I love your option of the dry core panels. My two questions are. 1. Is there no epoxy or painted vapor barrier that could down under the dry core? 2. The walls are finished …If I put the dry core subfloor in and leave it 1/2” from the walls, how does the moisture dissipate from the room? I don’t have AC and the house is heated with electric wall blowers in each room. Thanks in advance if you have time to answer this. I trust and appreciate your advice.
Hi Jeff, If a newer house has been settled for several years and no sign of water leaks or cracks, what is the risk of not ripping out the blanket insulation from 1-10 scale? Do you have a plan to make a video just to talk about building permit for finishing basement? maybe use Ontario as talking point? I think that will help a lot of DIYer who may not know all the details. Thanks!
Hi, I watched one of your videos where you expressed the importance of putting up foam board against the foundation of a new house before framing it out and installing the fiberglass insullation between thr studs. I took your advice and bought 15 8×4 pannel thus far of the 25 I think ill need. In preparation of buying the lumber i did some further research on metal vs wood studs to discover using metal studs is a far more attractive alternative to wood. With that said, I watched one of your videos on framing metal studs and it appeared as though the rigid foam board may no longer be neccessary. If you wouldnt mind clarifying if im still on the right track with using faom board behind metal studs with fiberglass between them I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks ,Chris
You should still use foam boards, as it will add extra R value and will partially act as a vapor barrier (not to compromise fiberglass insulation's R value due to wetness). Disclaimer: I am not a licensed contractor but a home DIYer.
Absolutely still use the foam board. The rigid foam is there to provide insulation. The type of stud you use will not impact this, and fiberglass insulation directly against concrete is a no-no.
Do you recommend waterproofing Walls and floors first? Necessary or Not? Radeon gas from the ground may pass through cracks on the basement floor with cracks.
Finally someone answered this question. So many time at the hardware store got different answers... would I need to alert the city when starting my basement project or wait until I'm at the electrical stage??
Hi Jeff, I live in Ottawa area and love your channel. This is the first time I ever logged in to actually comment on UTube, so hoping I do this correct. My question is the same as another person here regarding the top of your solution where it meets the rim/floor joist. How is it finished? I can't visualize the flow of air up there and am leaning to just sealing it all the way out of the cavity until it is flush with the foam board. Thoughts? Anyone? I watched a similar video where there is no gap between the foam and the concrete and it is sealed basically from floor to ceiling. Then the wall is built in front sitting on the foundation using pressure treated lumber (no sub floor under the wall). This is an 80s home and seems to be dry. There is also a sump in a far corner that has a little standing water but never seems to change so I am guessing there is generally no exterior water issues.
I have a hard time deciding how to insulate my basement walls in my 74 house (no insulation or vapour barrier on outside) since there's a lot of different views on the vapor barrier in a basement. Some say it's a big no no and some day you need one... I love in northern climates (often -20/-15°c in the winter) and my basement is i would say 50/50 under and above ground
Question 6:29. How does the bottom of the wall look in this setup? Does the foam board sit on the concrete? Does it sit on part of the frame? The subfloor isn't installed first right?
Hey Jeff, thanks for awesome videos! Quick question before I start on my basement using your guidance. Can I use a Ramset to secure subfloor panels to concrete or does it have to be Tapcon screws? Also there’s no concern with moisture getting through said hole in the subfloor panel?
Have you looked at Dricore's Insul-Armor product? It's 4'x2' sheets of rigid foam, no OSB. Much lighter, easier to cut. Tong and groove. Dricore says you can frame on top of it.
Would have been nice if DMX told us they're changing the blue One Step underlayment format to much larger dipples. Now I have to hope that the flooring will be compatible with old and new DMX
When finishing a basement do you do that subfloor first and then build the interior walls on top of that or do you do the interior walls first and then the floor?
Hi, I like the idea of putting 4 globs of sealant on the foam board. 2 questions: How do you keep the air gap behind the foam board even? Should you use some type of spacer? We are having a basement waterproofing installed with the wall wrap. Does this adhesive sick to the wall wrap, or will I need to do something different?
you dont need to keep the air gap even, it doesnt really matter. but if you do want to, just stick some sort of spacer on the back, like a plastic or pressure treate woo spacer, dont stick foam board to wall wrap. you use one or the other. they both do the job of keeping water out.
Anymore thoughts on offsetting the stud wall from concrete; seemed like a great idea, especially when building your stud wall on dri-core, creating a continuous air envelope (concrete floor and wall) to allow dispersion (my basement is somewhat dry...no real intrusions, but you can't leave things on the basement floor or they'll start smelling moldy....hence loved the idea of the continuous air space)....i keep reading though this is a terrible idea due to convection looping. Q1 - Is it better to do a flash & batt style insulation where you offset your stud wall an inch or so from the wall, spray foam 1 inch to act as a vapour/moisture barrier then insulate with batt in the walls? Q2 - I was thinking to still use dri-core on the floors, but leave a 1/4 inch out from walls and somewhat of an airspace to allow the concrete floor to breath, but perhaps a tight but to seal is also the way to go.
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Cheers!
Thank you so much! I plan on finishing my basement this year. I have all your basement videos saved in a folder. I promise to do before and after photos.
Cheers Joe, Happy to be of help! Enjoy the project!
SENDITTTT
How'd it go?
@guitarchitectural I got slowed down by undiagnosed and untreated diabetes. I am about 1 week from final inspection for half the basement.
@@joet3935hope it went well! Take care
Jeff!! My name is also Jeff! Now that we have that out of the way, THANK YOU. You’ve validated everything I’ve watched or heard on this subject in the past few weeks. I’m half way through ripping my basement apart , built in the 80s and you’re exactly right. No vapour barriers of any kind. And it’s surprisingly dry but musty lately. A few signs of mould starting. Time to make some big changes. I’ll keep you posted on progress
When I was learning renovation work, I was told to treat the concrete itself as liquid. I see that forgotten often in many situations. I love your explanation and system as it accounts for this. If you have no vapor/moisture barrier under your slab or outside your walls, then moisture will wick through your walls and floor. If you have a vapor barrier and insulation outside, then moisture in the concrete needs to go somewhere, and since it cannot go out, it's going to go in.
Valuable information on insulating a basement. One thing I would like for you to mention is egress. I know this really is about the finish product, but in most local building codes, basement living space requires 2-forms of egress; stair case and windows (this is not for walk out basements). DYI, please keep this in mind before deep investments of finishing off the basement. The foam board is such an advantage to finishing off basement walls these days. I love Rockwool insulation in the framing bays (agree cost is more expensive). I love the ease of installment, fire proof and holds up great if you have a flood. Great video!
Planing for this as material is not cheap these days…. Lool about 1500 sqf basement!!! You guys are awesome!
This might be the best, most informative and interesting home reno video I've ever watched. Thank you.
I’m sure glad I found this video, I’m in the process of redoing my basement. My house is where I grew up and it just turned 125 years old. 👍
I'm a newby home owner in an older home and your content is very good! Just wanted to say thank you. Cheers!
I appreciate that! Cheers!
Wow This video has got to be super helpful for any DIY'er that wants to finish their basement and just get it done right the first time
Cheers!
Love your videos. I used those drycore floor squares and had a beam pocket leak. It made its way down the wall and under the floor and in a low spot, then soaked up the seam and swelled the wood. Not a full water proof system like when you rolled out the dimple sheet.
Dude, thank you so much. You present the info in a way that is easy to follow and understand, and I feel like I've really learned some things!
Great content, thanks Jeff! Would you consider also doing a video on how to frame floating basement walls (required in places like Colorado with expansive soils), and also touching on how to solve tricky floating issues around doors, floor cabinets and tub/shower bases?
I used the foam wall system about 10 years ago on my previous home and it works wonderfully. Just started at our new home and I'm using the exact system here. Bonus points, if you are in Canada the system shown will get you about $1700 in rebates and the insulation for the walls is almost free in the end. Priced out the materials to do this and it will be
that is great to hear, thanks for the hint.
Thanks for sharing. Under what program do you get the rebates? Does it work for finishing the basement of a newer home as well?
@@chadiverson9291 I believe he is talking about Canada Greener Homes Grant
Did you put a vapor barrier on top of the studs and insulation?
@@Dannyryan73No. The foam layer takes care of that.
Man, I was literally just thinking of finding a vapor barrier and installing LVP over my concrete floor in the basement of my 1968 home ... Glad I found this video and did my research on it.
How is it you always deliver exactly the content I need EXACTLY when I need it? 😻😻
I have no idea. Cheers!
I'm about 75% done finishing my basement out, and your videos have been a Godsend! I've probably watched 80+ hours of them over the past 6 months! As this is my first real home improvement project, it's been unbelievably helpful walking me through all the various processes (And helping me decide when getting a professional was the right choice haha).
My Question is - I'm deciding to cheat and not do a subfloor system as my townhome is only about 5 years old. I'm in Utah. Do you have an LVP underlayment system that you heavily prefer?
best choice is anything with a cork backing. floor and decor sells a cork underlayment in a roll. 2nd option 3mm eva underpad for sound control. Cheers!
This was one of the best videos I have ever watched on “how to”.
Wow, within the first 5 mins, you perfectly described my basement and what is wrong with it!
Thanks Jeff love all you help, and appreciate your time.
I have superior walls in my home. Built in 98. I didn't realize I could use fiberglass in between studs. Didn't know it had a vapor barrier in concrete. Thank you!
really wish basements were more commonly added to new housing, but then again not like i can afford a house as a mid 20s man of only one salary in Oregon. When the time comes all the videos I binge of yours will come in handy for sure.
I did a dritek floor system or something. Cleated 2x2 osb board basically. I couldn't get a contractor to do them, so I did...pretty easy project to be honest. Definitely worth it too in terms of warm floors all year long.
That was great information Jeff. All makes sense. Thanks!!
Cheers john!
Thanks Jeff! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a 1950s house on Long Island, NY and while not looking for a heavy use living space in the basement, I want a nice option to throw some darts and bang on a drum kit. Cheers
I went to Homedepot today and found this panel, $8.4 per panel. hope worth the money.: ) Thank you Jeff
The house I bought had that type of insulation (what I call as roofing I insulation) and it got wet and smelly. Threw it all out, threw the cheap picture paneling out too. Put in styrofoam insulation, painted the walls with waterproof paint n sealer. Then put up nice 1/4” thick real wood paneling. 💯 better basement
now. And and a good dehumidifier!
Thanks, im currently doing a makeover of the basement and these are great tip. im halfway done (subfloor with thermal barrier, and rigid insulation on the wall so far) and can already feel a big difference. one issue i ran in were the Tapcon screw snapping on me. i first used the 3/16 3inch screw and before i could get any compression (head of screw inbedding inside the osb) it would just snap off, so i went back to buy 1/4 3 inch screw instead and they worked much better. Overall this system seems to works great so far, cant wait to be all done.
You are so knowledgeable and generous! Thank you!
Thank you so much for explaining clearly enough so a soccer mom can follow! Love your channel and your content.
Cheers to soccer mom's.
This is explained in a way even I understand it. 🙂
I have a ranch style home in Virginia built in the early 1970's. I'm going to be finishing the basement so I can have that added value when I go to sell it in a few years. Thanks for this video, it's just what I needed!!!
Cheers to Virginia!
Any thoughts on doing an epoxy floor in an older home's basement?
Hey ! We actually went a slightly different route at the end of the day but most of it still applies. We installed the subfloor of dimpled membrane with 5/8” OSB on top about 1” to the concrete wall (different everywhere cause the concrete is not straight at all!). Then, built the 2x4 wall, 2” from the concrete (again not consistently since we used a laser level to ensure a perfectly straight wall; highly recommend this) and hired a company to spray foam 3” of closed cell spray foam. This obviously got rid of the moisture issues potentially hitting the wood as the spray foam went to the floor but what we were likely planning on doing otherwise is doing a vapour barrier around the OSB and tucking is under the walls sill plate to prevent any moisture issues down the road. Just have to say though that the method of using simple membrane with OSB on top is unbelievably genius! The floor is significantly warmer and nice to walk in similar to a ground or second floor with a bit of cushion; unlike concrete.
I’m a new member here, and wow - great stuff! We live in Winnipeg, house built in 1949 and we’re looking at a similar approach having a 3rd party spray foam the basement’s concrete foundation walls. Jeff, I’ve seen you talk about the wall insulation solution where 2” R-10 rigid foam is attached with blobs of LePage PL 300 to the concrete, then walls are framed and insulated with pink fibreglass, which leaves an air gap between the concrete wall and rigid foam, allowing moisture from the under the subfloor to travel up the walls to evaporate. No mould! Question for Jeff: With a raised subfloor option like Dricore or “dimpled membrane with OSB” that provides an air gap along the floor and allows moisture to travel underneath, what is the impact when spray foam covers the walls and seals at the floor, thereby eliminating the air gap along the wall?
I’ve been watching your videos off and on now for the last few months and have found them to be incredibly informative and well explained. I’m going to start work on my basement this year using your videos. I plan on becoming a member of your website to take advantage of the Q&A. Keep up the great work!
I'd have itchy fingers after tapping my hands that insulation so much! Great info, boss! Thank you
Hi Jeff, thank you soooo much for all your content. It really helps to know what's going on, whether I do it myself or end up hiring somebody out. Are you going to do a video on a basement subfloor for an old house when the basement is extremely uneven, especially near a floor drain(3-5 in slope)? Most the videos that I've seen you do, the concrete appears relatively level and could be adjusted using a grinder or leveling compound.
I recently did a mold remediation job on a basement that had drainage mat and plywood. The water had gotten higher than the mat was essentially turning it into a thousand tiny swimming pools that never drain. It also soaked the plywood causing it to rot and mold. I tell people all the time if they want bomb proof flooring in a basement tile is the only way to go. You can install vinyl planks and when the water comes, and it will, your at the mercy of whatever untrained monkey is going to trying to dismantle your planks to try to "save" them. The newer system seems to make more sense only for the fact that its a smaller product and in the event it gets wet there would be less to replace. Just my 2 cents though. Thanks for the vid and looking forward to watching the water testing.
I'm glad you mentioned this. Since basement floors have high and low spots once water gets in the low spot I suspect it will remain there. Example: One third of my floor pitches towards the sump pump. the other third is relatively flat while the remainder dips towards the corners and perimeter. I don't see how these areas could ever dry out. And it's amazing how much water is in those low areas. Don't ask how I know!
Agreed I did cheap planks in my basement got semi flooded and had to tear it all out. I replaced it with tile if it ever gets wet or water it's soaks it right up.
Or polished cement
Pls add small pics of the products u give examples of as u speak of them e.g vapour barrier , waterproof membrane, subfloors etc . Love your videos. Keep ‘em coming.
I love the explanation and watching this channel. Since I am not that good at construction projects and very impatient, I am spending the extra money on the Dricore system.
This is so different than what our basement company did here in the North East. We have a 1950's basement and they used 6" steel studs with R19 throughout. They also just laid the vinyl plank flooring directly to the slab. The space is conditioned with a mini split unit that does heating, cooling and dehumidification. Time will tell how it holds up. Basement has no indication of moisture or musty smell. I can confirm no water events since 2003.
It's great to see that a lot of my plan for my basement office is consistent with your advice. But it looks like I can butt the framing right up against the foam board and not leave a half inch gap which I had initially planned.
best to have the gap behind the rigid foam. no value if it is between the framing and foam.
If you are an engineer building a new house, consider insulating outside the foundation and under the floor. This makes the concrete an asset rather than a liability by adding thermal mass inside the home making it more passive.
Materials vary by climate and the amount of foundation exposed, but it is essential to put a metal termite barrier at the top.
What you are describing is ICF construction, Insulated Concrete Forms,R-30, with no thermal bridging.
Excellent content, great delivery of information. Keep up the stellar work!!! 👍👍👍👍
You are a god when it comes to building these things out. Please dont leave youtube behind and please continue to teach us about this realm!!! With the way the world is hiking up inflation and the housing market I literally have to build my own house when we move because itll be cheaper. I and we appreciate your videos, keep'em coming!
Cheers Nico...not going anywhere!
Hey Jeff big fan of your channel, I work in new home construction and with the builders I've worked for and the others I have observed they do not install vapour barrier underneath the basement concrete. Unless a client/purchaser asks for it but its not a common thing I've seen in the industry.
A video on Basement steps would be great. I Recently bought an older home (1960s) and a few steps are loose/split. Looking to replace the planks or even redo the whole staircase if materials are priced decent.
Jeff I have been a fan for many years. This is my first comment ever - I just could not keep silent. The advice on finishing the basement wall you provide is plain dangerous. The warm air will come into the gap at the top cool down as it passes the cavity and move down to exit at the bottom as it becomes heavier. While that is happening moisture from the warm air will condense on the cold concrete wall. There will be a waterfall between the concrete and the insulation in winter. The only way to not have condensation in winter is to isolate warm air from the cold concrete wall. That can be done with continuous spray foaming or a tightly applied foam board with foamed joints and no gap at the top or slab. While you are correct about the minimum building code in cold climates the advice you are giving is to be avoided!
This makes sense to me...I feel like someone needs to do like a torture test video for all these different techniques
if you install the rigid foam all the way up to the joists and them lay r20 batt on the sill plate and 2 layers of rigid on the rim with foam you seal out warm air from having access in the winter. your thoughts on waterfall only happen if you fail to continue the insulation and vapor barriers. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY You are now talking about preventing the air from going in between the foam and the concrete wall. That's exactly my point. Why the whole story about intentionally leaving a gap? You are literally talking about air moving through that gap in the video...
I am saying that the air space will come into contact with the framing of the house which will then transfer it to the outside of the main floor and balance out the relative humidity. wood transfers water. Cheers!
Looking to re do my basement, have a handful of questions. I just joined and hoped we can converse soon. Have a great day! My wife and I enjoy your videos
If renovation was a martial art, this man is a 7th degree black belt!
basements in the Midwest here are not a lousy investment..When its always cold out its a great place to hang out and adds much value on one that is done right.Sold our last house about 5 years ago and i did an "open" concept basement.finished it all myself other than the finish of the drywall..We did nothing fancy,had good carpet,etc...People couldnt believe it and was one of the main reasons our house sold for asking and fast..Now if you pay someone to do all of it...then the return is not there but doing it yourself and doing it right it can really pay off.
like reinventing the wheel with all you have going on there with the subfloor and foam board and then framing..suddenly your house just became smaller!wow..not saying there isnt a place for this,just saying its not reality and economical..
Ty very clear and to the point video. I will be doing exactly this in my basement. I really appreciate you for making this video and will now be a sub of your channel. Looking forward to watching more great videos like this.
Outstanding video! 🎉
Learned a lot. Thanks for posting
Thanks for the video, Jeff - great content as always!
What about for areas like steel columns? Would you use pressure treated plates around them directly on the concrete and then have the subfloor product abut against the pressure treated lumber? Or would you just bring the subfloor as close to the column as possible and then frame directly on top of the subfloor?
Fantastic! Makes making the basement a kids space easier. Money up front,but return overall. Appreciate you and your family / team!
Thank you Joshua. Happy to help!
Great video, thank you Jeff, I learned a lot
I'm planning on renovating the basement in my 1950 built house. no sump pump, no exterior water protection. Also haven't had water in the basement in the 10 years I've been there.
Planning on Dricore subfloor and foam board on the exterior walls.
To prevent damage from potential water events, I'm using as little organic materials as possible.
I'll be steel studs, vinyl flooring, and rockwool in the stud bays.
I think I'll be a winning combination.
Only thing I have to figure it is synthetic alternatives to osb subfloor and drywall.
Do you have a floor drain? If there's a flooding event, the water should travel under the osb and drywall to the floor drain.
You could also dig a sump pit and pump. Its involved obviously, and hauling dirt and concrete sucks, but it's not particularly difficult. There's a good This Old House episode on digging your own sump pump pit.
so many gems , THANK YOU!
I had basically settled on following this exact plan before I even saw this. Grateful for the validation. One question: when framing out the walls onto the subfloor panels, should I just nail them to the subfloor panels? Or should I Tapcon or Ramset the bottom plates all the way down into the concrete?
Dricore recommends screwing the bottom plate to the subfloor with 2" wood screws and then tapcon/ramset through the bottom plate into the concrete with 3" anchors every 4'.
Best video on this subject. Thank you
The Dricore product Insul-Armor looks to be a pretty solid product. Doesn’t need plywood/osb which saves money and precious height. Limits flooring options to only floating floors though.
This was amazingly helpful. Thank you!
did this a year and a half ago step for step, its great. suggested on NRCAN -keeping the heat in site as well. note for exterior walls. may want to treat with borax before. had ants get in somehow and they didn't eat but tunneled in a section. made it Swiss cheese. had to make tiny hole and spray/fill with insecticide. uncommon, seems to work though
dealing with ants means you have wet exterior wood. best to find out why your exterior isn't staying dry. Chjeers!
I love the way you frame with the two types of insulation, but the thing I don’t like about that is it makes your windowsills a foot and a half deep by the time you’re all said and done.
I did this in my basement 15 years ago simply because 'it seemed like the best way to do it'. Everyone laughed at me and still do when I tell them the foundation is completely covered with foam board, then 2x4 studs and fiberglass insulation. Thanks for the validation with this video. Maybe I'm not an idiot after all! No subfloor for me as I don't see the benefit.
Did you also use the plastic vapour barrier behind the drywall. Because pink xps rigid foam is a vapour retarder. By doing Jeff's way your are sandwiching the fiberglass insulation between a vapour retarder and a vapour barrier.
my way is not creating a sandwich. since the barriers are not in touch with each other they do not cause condensation. Your understanding of building science is wrong. the wall stays completely dry!. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Jeff I think you are making bold statements against the building science. Don't get me wrong i know building science can be wrong at times but common logic says this is a bad idea. I would really like you to prove it wrong by doing a tear out of a wall system exactly like this. if you get a chance.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ THIS GUY!
I just bought a house where half the basement is blanketed and half is framed. And I live in Ontario. Was clueless where to start. Couldn't be more relevant!
Cheers Mike.
Come Reno my basement.. my house build in 1992. It funny just told my lady how our downstairs is cooler then upstairs. The temperatures are different.
So I finished my basement 4 days ago and now we have drywall up. I did a ton of research and it seems like everyone has a different opinion, I talked to 4 local contractors, then did research online for my climate zone.
I'll let you know in a few years if I have moisture issues.
We did firing strips on concrete (it's a half wall concrete and then studs above) and filled that with rigid foam insulation with foil backing. Faced the foil to Interior of home. Firing strip rests just above concrete.
No subfloor system, did carpet with vapor barrier pad. And LVP with padding.
Fingers crossed, you have me all worried now.
there are plenty of ways to finish a basement that are good. this is just the best design I have found out there that solves a large number of problems no matter how old or new a house is and it does not have a down side in any situation. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY and I for one appreciate your attention to detail and willingness to share your knowledge with all of us =)!
I have watched many of your videos on basement finish. What if you have in floor heat and icf in the basement? Would you finish that differently? I am working on finishing my basement and your videos are very helpful! I also live in Canada.
Hi Dan, new construction allows for ICF R 20 to 30 depending on your block. Radiant heating in floor means you also have a vapor barrier under the slab and probably insulation there as well. in your case you should simply install a vinyl plank with cork directly on the floor.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!
I gutted my basement and left it bare concrete for almost a year. I used this system to finish it and the results are night and day! So warm and dry
Question- my floor in the basement has an epoxy layer. Would it still be recommended to us the subfloor system or can I just lay the vynil floor on top ?
Love you Jeff!
Awesome video, thanks Jeff! One question, would adding a vapor barrier not run the risk of creating a double vapour barrier with the foam board?
Great episode! Detailed explanation
Cheers Thanks Frank!
I love your channel SO MUCH!!! Thank you so much for everything that you have taught me and everyone else
thermal bridging. nice. like the term
Hi Jeff, great video!! Thanks for making it. I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it better to waterproof the wall with DRYLOK extreme and then follow all the instructions in this video? 2. How do we install frame on top of the subfloor as you mentioned in the video? Thanks I’m advance!
I just became a member and love your video above. I have a few questions: 1) Does the Foam Board need to be 2" R10 or can it be 1.5" R7.50 2) Should I tape the foam board to the Dri-Core or use Great Stuff Insulating Foam 3) you mention using a vapour barrier, but the government site says I should use a Smart Barrier. Should I use one and if so which should I buy? P.S. I will be using Rockwool R14 between the studs.
all you need is r 7.5 for the rigid. and for best results in older houses use the subfloor and then install the rigid on top or leave a gap to slide it under. seal with a thin window foam so seal and not fill the air cavity. Not sure where you live so I can't comment on the barrier. always follow local building code. Cheers!
Thanks for the updated video Jeff !!! This makes a lot of sense... even for a French guy !hahaha ... so the question remains... If I want to install a subfloor in the basement but the walls are already finished... do I still leave a 1/4" gap between the subfloor and the drywall ? Thanks again and sorry for all the questions in multiple videos !
Best!
Hi Carl if you have walls already and you have a waterproofing system on the exterior then try the new dricore thermal panel . it is lightweight and has no osb on it. install like an underlayment and lay flooring directly on top. Cheers!
Jeff great video. I have a 1950’s rambler in Washington State that someone converted a slab on grade garage to a master bedroom, so no vapor barrier,They put vinyl plank flooring with cork backing no pad/vapor barrier underneath. 6 months after moving in we moved decorative rug in the room and noticed mold growing in straight lines on the underside that matched joint lines of the plank floor below. Now ripping out the floor leaving the exposed 74 year old concrete slab. I love your option of the dry core panels. My two questions are. 1. Is there no epoxy or painted vapor barrier that could down under the dry core? 2. The walls are finished …If I put the dry core subfloor in and leave it 1/2” from the walls, how does the moisture dissipate from the room?
I don’t have AC and the house is heated with electric wall blowers in each room.
Thanks in advance if you have time to answer this. I trust and appreciate your advice.
Hi Jeff, If a newer house has been settled for several years and no sign of water leaks or cracks, what is the risk of not ripping out the blanket insulation from 1-10 scale? Do you have a plan to make a video just to talk about building permit for finishing basement? maybe use Ontario as talking point? I think that will help a lot of DIYer who may not know all the details. Thanks!
Hi, I watched one of your videos where you expressed the importance of putting up foam board against the foundation of a new house before framing it out and installing the fiberglass insullation between thr studs. I took your advice and bought 15 8×4 pannel thus far of the 25 I think ill need. In preparation of buying the lumber i did some further research on metal vs wood studs to discover using metal studs is a far more attractive alternative to wood. With that said, I watched one of your videos on framing metal studs and it appeared as though the rigid foam board may no longer be neccessary. If you wouldnt mind clarifying if im still on the right track with using faom board behind metal studs with fiberglass between them I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks ,Chris
You should still use foam boards, as it will add extra R value and will partially act as a vapor barrier (not to compromise fiberglass insulation's R value due to wetness).
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed contractor but a home DIYer.
Absolutely still use the foam board. The rigid foam is there to provide insulation. The type of stud you use will not impact this, and fiberglass insulation directly against concrete is a no-no.
Do you recommend waterproofing Walls and floors first? Necessary or Not? Radeon gas from the ground may pass through cracks on the basement floor with cracks.
Finally someone answered this question. So many time at the hardware store got different answers... would I need to alert the city when starting my basement project or wait until I'm at the electrical stage??
You should apply the permit before you start anything or you never.
always get the permit first. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks
Hi Jeff, I live in Ottawa area and love your channel. This is the first time I ever logged in to actually comment on UTube, so hoping I do this correct. My question is the same as another person here regarding the top of your solution where it meets the rim/floor joist. How is it finished? I can't visualize the flow of air up there and am leaning to just sealing it all the way out of the cavity until it is flush with the foam board. Thoughts? Anyone?
I watched a similar video where there is no gap between the foam and the concrete and it is sealed basically from floor to ceiling. Then the wall is built in front sitting on the foundation using pressure treated lumber (no sub floor under the wall). This is an 80s home and seems to be dry. There is also a sump in a far corner that has a little standing water but never seems to change so I am guessing there is generally no exterior water issues.
Great video 👍
I have a hard time deciding how to insulate my basement walls in my 74 house (no insulation or vapour barrier on outside) since there's a lot of different views on the vapor barrier in a basement. Some say it's a big no no and some day you need one... I love in northern climates (often -20/-15°c in the winter) and my basement is i would say 50/50 under and above ground
Great video Jeff.
Thanks Larry, glad you liked it! Cheers!
Informative video as always. Now I just need a basement. 🤪
Loving it!
Watched this just after I finished my basement. What have I done...
How did you do.i am yet to do. What you suggest
You done messed up like i did the first time in my 20's. Now in my 40's I'm tearing it all out and doing it right
Yea same here! I wish Ai would have been a little quicker on showing me this video.
Question 6:29. How does the bottom of the wall look in this setup? Does the foam board sit on the concrete? Does it sit on part of the frame? The subfloor isn't installed first right?
Great as always!
Cheers Matthew!
今度、自分の家でもやってみたいと、思います。👍
Suggest making a video on garage to ADU conversion. Thanks.
Hey Jeff, thanks for awesome videos! Quick question before I start on my basement using your guidance. Can I use a Ramset to secure subfloor panels to concrete or does it have to be Tapcon screws? Also there’s no concern with moisture getting through said hole in the subfloor panel?
Have you looked at Dricore's Insul-Armor product? It's 4'x2' sheets of rigid foam, no OSB. Much lighter, easier to cut. Tong and groove. Dricore says you can frame on top of it.
What do you do for the rim joists and the space above your wall? Insulate? Rigid foam?
Would have been nice if DMX told us they're changing the blue One Step underlayment format to much larger dipples. Now I have to hope that the flooring will be compatible with old and new DMX
When finishing a basement do you do that subfloor first and then build the interior walls on top of that or do you do the interior walls first and then the floor?
Hi, I like the idea of putting 4 globs of sealant on the foam board. 2 questions:
How do you keep the air gap behind the foam board even? Should you use some type of spacer?
We are having a basement waterproofing installed with the wall wrap. Does this adhesive sick to the wall wrap, or will I need to do something different?
you dont need to keep the air gap even, it doesnt really matter. but if you do want to, just stick some sort of spacer on the back, like a plastic or pressure treate woo spacer,
dont stick foam board to wall wrap. you use one or the other. they both do the job of keeping water out.
Anymore thoughts on offsetting the stud wall from concrete; seemed like a great idea, especially when building your stud wall on dri-core, creating a continuous air envelope (concrete floor and wall) to allow dispersion (my basement is somewhat dry...no real intrusions, but you can't leave things on the basement floor or they'll start smelling moldy....hence loved the idea of the continuous air space)....i keep reading though this is a terrible idea due to convection looping.
Q1 - Is it better to do a flash & batt style insulation where you offset your stud wall an inch or so from the wall, spray foam 1 inch to act as a vapour/moisture barrier then insulate with batt in the walls?
Q2 - I was thinking to still use dri-core on the floors, but leave a 1/4 inch out from walls and somewhat of an airspace to allow the concrete floor to breath, but perhaps a tight but to seal is also the way to go.