@@danhodgkiss9798 Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
Nothing at all wrong with using body filler on your repair, that's exactly the purpose it was designed for. If you follow the directions and properly prep and clean your surfaces and don't glob it on there too thick, the repair will outlast the life of the vehicle.
I am a noob doing close to a half ass job of fixing up my old 66 c10 fleetside that I have had since 68. Back in the 80's I was backing down a dirt driveway to get some firewood and the drivers door opened past its stop. That door got a nasty dent that has had me down for decades. Today miged 3 pulls to it. I used some 1"x3.5" 1/8" metal and drilled a hole for a bolt on the pull end That I fasted to a 2x4 that had a drilled hole for a bolt also. Ran a chain between the bolts and leveraged against the heavy top door hinge and was I pleased with the results. Worked the 3 studs and wala 90% pretty. Very nice. Thanks for helping me do this. It means considerable. Soon I will prep for mud and then primer..... 😊👍
I am so happy to hear that - made my day! Keep at it and you'll never know that dent was there. Nice job. Let me know how it turns out with the filler. Jerry
Watching your videos makes me want to go back to 12 hours a day 6 days a week working my ass off. Love you videos brings me back to when I had to do it for a living and makes me want to get back into it again
My boss used to say a mechanic can fix an engine but a body man can fix any thing. I loved the trade , the guys I worked with, the smell, the sense of confidence and pride you got from the finished job. One guy was whacking at his foot one day with a little sledge hammer - I'm like "wtf are you doing?" Turns out he had a fake foot/leg but you'd never have known it - funny/fun people. JV
Great work I’m recently took a step back from my barbering career to pursue my automotive paint and restoration work. I did 3 years in school for it , and I’m Ready to get back at it This video was 100% helpful great god bless you
you did good , and im not even a body man but i could see your confedence in doing what you do , i just wished i could do that ......thanks for taking time to upload this vedio and showing how its done ......AHO !!!
Will be very happy to work with you guys Still working for Japan motors for 5 years as auto body technician and I will be very happy to work with you to learn more
Ty again, how long is your airfile and what brand is it? I'm watching your videos and I feel like I am in a classroom learning. Giving me confidence i can do this as well. I know it takes practice and lots.. but I really want to learn. Thanks again.
Feel free to always ask questions - I get to them every day. The file is a Viking V100 but I would trust a Astro 888C - they're less $ but work fine - all their air tools work just fine :)
I'm getting ready to use a stud welder for the first time; I remember drilling holes for the slide hammer. Iol. I feel more confident tackling this job after watching the videos on your channel. The take line is a must for me after learning this from you. Thank you,
Here's a good example of what I mean by block sanding - ruclips.net/video/S8OzM13iwHA/видео.html Generally for small areas you'll block sand with anything from 120-180. You can even use 80 grit for super big areas and then move to a finer grit when you get close to finishing. Then you prime again, finish sand with 320-400 and paint :)
Good work, right at the very end you said you would block it and fill any imperfections . What grit do you block with and what do you fill the imperfections with? And do you put more of the same primer over that filler? By the way, what body filler and what primer are you using? Thanks, Tom
On large dents I block with 80 grit on a long board then prime again block with 120 or 150 then prime again finish sand with 220 on a DA or 320-400 wet sand. Some would disagree but in all the body shops I've worked in this was par for the course. You can fill imperfections with old school red putty in the tube, body filler, or 2 part putty. Real small spots I use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty 907 'cause it's readily available - bigger spots I use body filler. I don't use expensive putty. I use lacquer primer just cause it's cheap and it works just fine. Feel free to ask more ?s if I missed any.
Glad to help - I have another detailed video on this topic coming up a week from now - all similar vids like that will be listed under the "bodywork" playlist
Good demonstration Working on recreating a body line on my fox b. Mustang. I'm a little off right now, looks like i'll need to tape and fill again and see if I can get er straighter this time. Appreciate the videos as always👍👍👍
I have a whole door with a convex horizontal body line theat was destroyed with a long dent/scrape. I hammered it out from inside as much as I could and then started filling. I have a flat door panel but the body line is pretty much gone. How do I rebuild a 36” ridge w filler that’s straight? Maybe should have let a pro do this dent but I thought I could handle it. BTW for me I like using a 12-14” block w 40 grit aluminum oxide- I could really use one of those air files!!
First, let me ask if you can somehow come close to the shape of the old panel just with metal. Usually you would make sure all body lines and edges are very very close and not worry about the open flat areas too much. It's good to have the "frame work" there.
Without being insulting or sounding negative, that damage was a great candidate for Paintless Dent Repair. PDR retains factory finishes. It is completely environmentally friendly. Not to mention the same repair would take approximately 1 to 2 hours to complete.
Thanks - I appreciate that. Anything that makes pulling easier is good. I have a few using a stud welder - here's one: ruclips.net/video/MTJrlUDzwaU/видео.html
Great video I like the way you use heavy heavy grit paper 40 and 80 I never knew that I was for people just used like 80 to start with but it works great I tried it myself save so much time thanks
Here's a price list from Parts Galore in Detroit - www.parts-galore.com/parts-price-list/ at least it will give you an idea of the cost - this place has good prices though :)
Yes but try to knock it down a bit with a punch or something to get some thickness in the filler. Best to knock it down, weld it and fill but you can tap it down and fill also :)
Hi Bud what size compressor do you use? What type of set up do you have for water and oil extraction? I as well love doing bodywork. It’s an Art Form and enjoy it a lot. The only thing I worry about a lot is the painting. Making sure it’s mixed right, proper gun set up. So much time goes into doing the bodywork. Then when it comes to painting you don’t want to screw it up and have to start over so that’s always been my biggest issue is gun set up paint mixture there’s all kinds of different paints they all get mixed differently and I guess I just get worried that it’s not mixed right it won’t turn out right etc. I use to use a single stage with a gloss hardener. But now there’s DuPont, PPG, House Of Color etc. My saying is if the Bodywork ain’t right, Paint it White. Lol. Well thanks for the info on the compressor if you can get it to me I live in the Northeast Ohio and I just get a lot of water coming out of my airline and into my air tools I don’t have a lot of water in the compressor itself so I’m just kind of confused on where all the waters coming from and don’t want to be spraying and have water come out onto my worksurface so if you could just give me that certain information maybe that’ll just kind of give me a Headstart as far as what to look for and how to set it up. Thanks Again Big Jim
Hi Jim, I use a 1 HP Sears (US made Campbell H.). Here's a video on that topic - ruclips.net/video/53miAObOdVY/видео.html As for water, I drain the tank after every use. Then only when I paint I use an in line water trap like - www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html?cid=paid_google|||68224&gclid=CjwKCAjw4871BRAjEiwAbxXi2-qFuTaOL4cDFV285s4rBIufALskjFaU8ugYG72n6l6I1AOOPzlDaRoC6I4QAvD_BwE or this work really well but $ - mastertoolrepair.com/motorguard-toiletpaper-filter-m60-12in-s1136-p-4039.html And for painting try not to worry about it. Always plan on a problem - that's what I do - bugs, dust, runs, dry areas, sags, missed areas, mottling, etc. For fool proof painting use BC/CC and just plan on doing a little buffing on the problem spots or lightly wet sand and buff the whole thing. It's good for your arms anyway :)
Lakeside Autobody Lol Thanks. I just annoyed when I am using air tools, ratchets, impacts, spray guns. I have a nice HVLP Gun with a Regulator and Filter on the gun itself. But for some reason I get so much water out of the airline and into my tools. So I might try a trans cooler, with PTFE Hose, and I have a couple other filters that I’ve had I might just throw on. I have a Coleman 30 Gal Single Stage. I will definitely look into what you sent. I appreciate you responding. By the way you do nice work. And to the standards I do. You got one shot to make it right. Thanks Bud
I’m sure the repair came out ok, but I would have buzzed the grinding edges with a D.A & feather the paint edges first before filling. Could you not gain access from inside to lever the dent out ?, did you prime straight over bare metal without using an etch primer first ?
Never do that because it actually shines the bare metal and nothing likes to stick to smooth surfaces. You can DA painted surfaces and apply filler but not metal - the paper dulls then rubs and shines. That's what gives filler a bad name. On metal - only apply filler over 36 grit scratches from a new 36 grit fiber resin disc. The filler will be there forever.
Dude, if you read this, don't freak out. You know how you start to really love a nurse that takes care of you, no matter what she looks like? I'm getting the same feeling for you...
That's funny 'cause I was in the hospital once for three months and loved it! The nurses treated me so well - I felt like I had three shifts of moms coming to see me. Glad you feel that way though - that's a good thing to have in life :)
On this project I used a pogo stick - like this - Keysco Tools 77175 The Hustler Stick Alignment Bar I also use a Champ 10 ton frame puller for bigger stuff. Glad you enjoy the videos my friend - have a good week :)
Good thinking - I like it. When you pull huge dents big tabs work real well as compared to a stud welder. You can then grab them with a Mo-Clamp or something similar
I also tried with my floor jack as someone else suggested welded a couple of hooks to the handle worked excellent pulled a 2 foot cease in a tailgate no problem.
Lakeside Autobody I have a magnetic ground clamp. So I clean off an area a little bigger where the repair is gonna be. And stick it to it. It’s right there next to where I’ll be welding so it will have a good ground for sure.
Now for the ones doing this at home. They could buy the tabs ect but what you are not showing them is how you are pulling that keeping tension for newbies ect. Video gets a c +
Thanks - you can use a stud welder on a lot of stuff but when it comes to very large dents it's best to spread the pulling out by using pieces of sheet metal or really, we used to use those "U" shaped shims - real handy, clean and ready to use.
Pin holes will bubble the paint and primer (pinholes that penetrate the steel). If it's just pits from rust that were sand blasted but not through - yes. Scratches may or may not show through eventually if the primer and paint shrinks into them. I've had them show up down the line and sometimes got away with it. Might depend on the quality of the primer and paint. Best to be safe and sand those scratches out. Jerry
In a body shop it would be pretty expensive - $500 and up because they would want to blend onto the adjacent panels to match paint. In a home shop it's really a 1 day job so 100 for materials (paint and hardener alone is around 75) and 100 for labor? - around 200 bucks would be on the cheap side.
If you were to straighten out an "S" shaped piece of metal you would pull on the low spot and push on the high spot at the same time. This is what I'm doing with the hammer - as I pull on the low spot, I hit the high areas - I works the dent out very nicely using that method. Hope that helps - Jerry
Jason B , the problem is there aren't good PDR techs just everywhere. I have seen some people that claim to be PDR techs that made a mess of things! Really good PDR techs are really hard to find in smaller towns. Some decent ones travel to the smaller dealerships every couple of weeks if you can catch them there.
@@jasonb4614 I don't see to many PDR vids taking out serious creases or stretched metal - just nice rounded dents that looks like they created it. In a real shop the paint is always marred.
I had pdr to fix hail damage, guess what, some of the dents re-appeared so pdr is only as good as the tech and only useful if the metal hasn't stretched
Sometimes yes 'cause the video would then be longer and I try to keep them short to hold the viewers interest. I can't stand watching long drawn out videos - I'll just move on.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the response I know people are always in a hurry I try to get everything I can even how tools are held and worked thanks again for the vids
Not true at all - (Not trying to be mean, but just so that people who really want to learn this will know). A guy in a body shop who plays with the dent all day to save the paint (which 99% of the time is damaged anyway) will take forever, not make any money, the manager will be upset, the customer will be angry, and he/she wont last long. Just curious - what body shops have you worked in that they use PDR - paintless dent removal for all the dents? Jerry
If you want to work at a dealership, independently owned body shop, even MACCO, you better know how to do this. If you can't get filler straight, you're done. No playing around with PDR either - they won't stand for that :)
Your number one priority is getting the damage straight - don't worry about the size - most of the time you end up blending and clearing at least 2 panels anyway. Also, it's very rare that a panel comes in dented w/o paint damage so PDR is usually out of the ?. Just out of curiosity, how would you have gone about metal finishing this - would you push or pull the dent?
@@LakesideAutobody I'm not saying you did it wrong it is certainly one approach but the finished size is excessive and I would never sacrifice quality for size. I would've pulled it much in the same fashion but wouldve used wiggle wire and spent a little more time working it as opposed to just setting the brows in and filling it up with mud. And good painters aren't going to need two panels to blend a door... if it was at my shop our painter panel matches the paint provided you keep your work no larger than necessary depending on location of dent of course. And by the way you should get a smaller grinder man this is 2020 lol.
Wooow! Amazing way to fix a simple dent in a hard work... so it's more easy broke the door than repair it.... hahaha man you most better buy a new one😂😂😂😂
Then he must use new panels. Ask him to do this repair w/o filler. ruclips.net/video/36zkc9UQaTs/видео.html - Trust me they use filler too- even thick primer is considered filler.
Lakeside Autobody No it is hand dollied, hand shrunk, file finished, joints lead filled, etch primed, thin coat of 2 part primer, sanded and painted. No body filler, or I don’t pay.
@@bentaxelrod The point I'm trying to make is there is a lot of fantasy out there like folks can fix stuff without filler. Yes you can - tiny to moderate dings and dents. In a body shop you have to be able to fix anything and I mean anything. Semi tires that come over guard rails and hit cars in the windshield, rollover accidents, serious rust damage and demolished quarter panels, etc. They are not doing the rust damage and collision damage that regular body shops do. If they are stating that they butt weld rust repairs and metal finish beware! See this video and what Eastwood has to say about it - ruclips.net/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/видео.html Just saying 'cause so many folks say "no filler, no filler" that's leading folks in the wrong direction.
Lakeside Autobody Oh come on. We have a large smash repair shop around the corner from the restoration company who does just that. I’ve stood there and watched them do it. They lead fill only and they have always been flat out. They are quick, accurate and the largest in the city. There’s not a sniff of body filler in the whole place. I restored a car in 1978. Where I lead filled, it is still perfect. Where I used body filler it needs to be redone.
@@bentaxelrod First let me say, "Nice talking to you - I enjoy the debate" Next, a lot of shops do not apply filler in the correct way. Have to use a fresh fiber resin disc 36-40 grit on a grinder made for body work (can't be high speed and shine the metal). Also it has to be put over a solid metal surface (no thin rusty, holes, etc). See these vids - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html That Charger's paint job was done in early 1990's - looks perfect more than 25 years later -driving in Detroit (salted roads) Again, nice talking to you. Funny, my dad was a lead guy and I used to play with those lead sticks - bend them around. No lead poisoning :) Jerry
I do auto body repair and I find so many things wrong with what this man is doing ... He did not need to grind off all the paint and use that tool for the body line and since he did that why not attach the tool to the other two dents below and above the body line and pull them out to use very minimal filler but yet he filled in those two dents... Can you use the grinder which leaves very big gashes in the middle making your job a lot harder he could have use 80 grit and take down the paint.. He did not use any etching primer from what we could tell I'm more than sure he would have mentioned it if he did. I still don't understand what all the hammering was about when the dent was still in you don't Hammer a dent out without a dolly pressing against the inside panel also if he was pulling on those two dents from the top of the body line and bottom then I could see using the hammer we all know this message but without putting any pressure on that dent there's no reason for the hammer it doesn't make any sense...👎
The hammering is knocking down the high spots as you pull on the low spots ( I'm pulling at the same time as hammering) It doesn't matter how deep scratches are from a grinder This is really how it is done in a body shop some use a stud welder but when the dent is huge you weld shims of sheet metal to the panel for pulling more surface area Forget about getting behind with a dolly as most of the times it's not accessible - just start pulling right away and you'll be faster than anyone in the shop - while they play around taking the inside of the car apart to get the dolly in there - you'll be done already Finally self etching prime is not used in a body shop - just regular old primer surfacer - goes right over bare metal - same with filler - right over bare metal
Now I know everybody has there own way of pulling a dent out with a body line etc but dude the make slide hammers and stud guns with studs that you can just twist off now you gotta grind down the tac welds you just did
This is just a demo on a little dent using this method. When you're pulling huge dents a stud gun doesn't cut it. I used to repair dents in Lincoln quarters and truck bed sides where you'd need 3 or 4 inch sheets of metal welded on to pull from. I'd spread the filler with an 8 inch piece of card board :) You had to use a Kansas jack to pull some of the dents - slide hammers and little studs would not suffice.
Do you mean strip the car? If so, you only have to do that if the original paint is damaged in some way or too many layers of paint. Otherwise it acts as a good primer.
That body line looks like dog the way to do it is use a flexible plastic or small black rubber squeegee and wipe the bondo horizontally bending the squeegee to match the curve you can tape half of it off only doing one side than come back and bondo the other side that way you can get it super smooth obviously wiping it vertically leaves it lumpy making it much harder to sand it right. Think about it apply the bondo lumpy like he does and you make your job harder, Put it on smooth is 50% of the straightening process and if your a rookie you have a better chance not to F up while sanding smooth bondo than you do sanding bondo that looks like the surface of the moon
If you get one to look like this, I'd love to see your work. ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html Instead of constant negativity, upload some of your work to the "Your Projects" page. discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu
If you really want to learn how to get filler straight - fast and efficient watch a few more videos on this channel under the dent repair playlist. You want to get your filler straight in 1 shot - not in multiple apps - remember in collision shops you get paid by the job - speed = money. Here's a job that should take one day - ruclips.net/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/видео.html
Your boss would be very angry with you if you did that as it is not an accepted practice in a body shop. It leave little volcano type holes and unfortunately the hole is the highest part. When you put filler over it you have a hole very near the surface.
It's painful to watch... Obviously you're a professional in what your'e doing BUT It's JUST a tiny dent! You either ignore it or get it fixed with PDR, which would not cost more than $200 max and 2 hours of work. (I'm not even a pro but I do PDR on my own dents with great results. What people don't realize is that NO PAINT JOB comes even close to the factory paint. NO PAINT JOB can ever match the color of other panels, no matter what anyone says, it's just impossible to color match a factory paint. People, please don't destroy your cars.
In the real world it's pretty hard to come across a perfect dent for PDR - no creases, no scratches, no marred paint, no stretched metal, nice and smooth. You almost have to carefully create it yourself in order to demonstrate PDR or make videos on it - Jerry
@@DrCeramicDallas I've seen plenty of PDR videos - in fact my dad was pretty good at it and taught me a little bit about it in 1979 - he had the picks, etc. and even used a propane torch sometimes real light to bring up a ding. In a real shop setting though there is no time to fiddle around with a dent for too long - boss says, "How long are you going to play around with that thing?" I've heard that a few times and it don't feel good. Again - I've seen a few dents that could be fixed using PDR but generally they need to be bumped, and filled. Not too much metal finishing going on either - metal's too thin and springy for that. Maybe back in the old days.
With respect, he only thing that has the possibility of shrinking is when folks are bad at getting their filler straight and then try compensating by spraying tons of lacquer primer surfacer over it in order to have something to block sand or to help them get it straight. 2K (two part) materials never shrink and filler is 2 part. Things that don't shrink are filler, 2K urethane primer surfacer, and polyester primer which is also 2K - If you use lacquer primer in the right way it will never shrink either. Just can't bury the scratches and poor filler work with tons of primer to hide it - those are the facts :)
My old man had a body shop and I went to tech school for auto body and this is text book auto body repair. You're the man.
Thank you so much. Have a great week end. Jerry
Dan Hodgkiss why is it going to crack.
I want now how do I will remove the dents and do the pint
@@danhodgkiss9798 Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
Nothing at all wrong with using body filler on your repair, that's exactly the purpose it was designed for.
If you follow the directions and properly prep and clean your surfaces and don't glob it on there too thick, the repair will outlast the life of the vehicle.
Finally someone that does it from start to finish. Step by step great video
You're welcome
I am a noob doing close to a half ass job of fixing up my old 66 c10 fleetside that I have had since 68.
Back in the 80's I was backing down a dirt driveway to get some firewood and the drivers door opened past its stop.
That door got a nasty dent that has had me down for decades.
Today miged 3 pulls to it.
I used some 1"x3.5" 1/8" metal and drilled a hole for a bolt on the pull end That I fasted to a 2x4 that had a drilled hole for a bolt also. Ran a chain between the bolts and leveraged against the heavy top door hinge and was I pleased with the results. Worked the 3 studs and wala 90% pretty. Very nice.
Thanks for helping me do this.
It means considerable.
Soon I will prep for mud and then primer.....
😊👍
I am so happy to hear that - made my day! Keep at it and you'll never know that dent was there. Nice job. Let me know how it turns out with the filler. Jerry
Watching your videos makes me want to go back to 12 hours a day 6 days a week working my ass off. Love you videos brings me back to when I had to do it for a living and makes me want to get back into it again
My boss used to say a mechanic can fix an engine but a body man can fix any thing. I loved the trade , the guys I worked with, the smell, the sense of confidence and pride you got from the finished job. One guy was whacking at his foot one day with a little sledge hammer - I'm like "wtf are you doing?" Turns out he had a fake foot/leg but you'd never have known it - funny/fun people. JV
Once again, patents makes perfect. To correct that body line, the lighter alloy's require a gentle well placed tap or two. My hats off to you.
Thanks Mike - I appreciate the support :)
Sir! I love to watch and learn from your video lessons! Old school is best school! Thank you!
You're welcome. So glad to hear you enjoy them. Have a good new year :)
Great work I’m recently took a step back from my barbering career to pursue my automotive paint and restoration work. I did 3 years in school for it , and I’m Ready to get back at it
This video was 100% helpful great god bless you
God bless you too. Feel free to ask any ?s - doesn't matter what video or what ?. I answer 1-2 times a day - Jerry
I liked doing body work as a youngster and got lots of satisfaction when completed. Stay healthy!
You too :)
you did good , and im not even a body man but i could see your confedence in doing what you do , i just wished i could do that ......thanks for taking time to upload this vedio and showing how its done ......AHO !!!
I appreciate that - thanks for the support :)
Will be very happy to work with you guys
Still working for Japan motors for 5 years as auto body technician and I will be very happy to work with you to learn more
I appreciate that Ebenezer - What is Japan motors ?
Ty again, how long is your airfile and what brand is it? I'm watching your videos and I feel like I am in a classroom learning. Giving me confidence i can do this as well. I know it takes practice and lots.. but I really want to learn. Thanks again.
Feel free to always ask questions - I get to them every day. The file is a Viking V100 but I would trust a Astro 888C - they're less $ but work fine - all their air tools work just fine :)
i have learn more from you in 30 minutes then years any other way thanks!!!!!!!!!
That makes my day Charles - thanks and have a good weekend :)
I'm getting ready to use a stud welder for the first time; I remember drilling holes for the slide hammer. Iol. I feel more confident tackling this job after watching the videos on your channel. The take line is a must for me after learning this from you. Thank you,
You're welcome Jon - ask questions as you go if you need :)
You said that you have to block sand it. Is that wet sanding? Also, what grit paper do you use to block sand primed surfaces?? Thanks.
Here's a good example of what I mean by block sanding - ruclips.net/video/S8OzM13iwHA/видео.html Generally for small areas you'll block sand with anything from 120-180. You can even use 80 grit for super big areas and then move to a finer grit when you get close to finishing. Then you prime again, finish sand with 320-400 and paint :)
Good work, right at the very end you said you would block it and fill any imperfections . What grit do you block with and what do you fill the imperfections with? And do you put more of the same primer over that filler? By the way, what body filler and what primer are you using? Thanks, Tom
On large dents I block with 80 grit on a long board then prime again block with 120 or 150 then prime again finish sand with 220 on a DA or 320-400 wet sand. Some would disagree but in all the body shops I've worked in this was par for the course. You can fill imperfections with old school red putty in the tube, body filler, or 2 part putty. Real small spots I use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty 907 'cause it's readily available - bigger spots I use body filler. I don't use expensive putty. I use lacquer primer just cause it's cheap and it works just fine. Feel free to ask more ?s if I missed any.
Thanks for sharing I learned and gained knowledge on my build body line repair done right!!!
Glad to help - I have another detailed video on this topic coming up a week from now - all similar vids like that will be listed under the "bodywork" playlist
Sweet sweet sweet. You make it look to easy man. Great tips and great job
Thank- have a great week
Good demonstration
Working on recreating a body line on my fox b. Mustang. I'm a little off right now, looks like i'll need to tape and fill again and see if I can get er straighter this time.
Appreciate the videos as always👍👍👍
Let me know how it goes for you - if you have any ?s, just ask - Jerry
I have a whole door with a convex horizontal body line theat was destroyed with a long dent/scrape. I hammered it out from inside as much as I could and then started filling. I have a flat door panel but the body line is pretty much gone. How do I rebuild a 36” ridge w filler that’s straight? Maybe should have let a pro do this dent but I thought I could handle it. BTW for me I like using a 12-14” block w 40 grit aluminum oxide- I could really use one of those air files!!
First, let me ask if you can somehow come close to the shape of the old panel just with metal. Usually you would make sure all body lines and edges are very very close and not worry about the open flat areas too much. It's good to have the "frame work" there.
Your videos are really good and on point
Glad you like them - thanks for the support :)
I always use a paint stick to stir the bondo. That way it does not get all over the plastic spreader and onto the thumb and fingers
Without being insulting or sounding negative, that damage was a great candidate for Paintless Dent Repair. PDR retains factory finishes. It is completely environmentally friendly. Not to mention the same repair would take approximately 1 to 2 hours to complete.
No problem - thanks for the comment Nicholas - have a good weekend :)
this video was made 3 years ago bro pdr wasn’t as big as it is now
Nice and skilfully done, bravo, enjoyed the video
Thanks Salvatore - have a good weekend :)
Great job i enjoyed how you showed how to do it
Thanks DR - glad you enjoyed it :)
Hi I know your old school have thought about buying a gyspot weld puller really good prices now .Thanks great content
Thanks - I appreciate that. Anything that makes pulling easier is good. I have a few using a stud welder - here's one: ruclips.net/video/MTJrlUDzwaU/видео.html
Great video! Subscribed. Could a stud gun be used if I don't have a welder?
Yes
Great video I like the way you use heavy heavy grit paper 40 and 80 I never knew that I was for people just used like 80 to start with but it works great I tried it myself save so much time thanks
You're welcome. Every body shop I worked at started with 36 or 40 grit paper, then finished with 80 and primed :)
How much was a junk yard door in excellent condition for the same make and model year?
Here's a price list from Parts Galore in Detroit - www.parts-galore.com/parts-price-list/ at least it will give you an idea of the cost - this place has good prices though :)
Very good job...learned something new. Thanks!
You're welcome :)
What if u had a tear in the metal right at the body line about 6-8 inchs long ..u could still bondo it right ?
Yes but try to knock it down a bit with a punch or something to get some thickness in the filler. Best to knock it down, weld it and fill but you can tap it down and fill also :)
Great info! Nice tips and pointers.
Glad it was helpful
Hi Bud what size compressor do you use? What type of set up do you have for water and oil extraction? I as well love doing bodywork. It’s an Art Form and enjoy it a lot. The only thing I worry about a lot is the painting. Making sure it’s mixed right, proper gun set up. So much time goes into doing the bodywork. Then when it comes to painting you don’t want to screw it up and have to start over so that’s always been my biggest issue is gun set up paint mixture there’s all kinds of different paints they all get mixed differently and I guess I just get worried that it’s not mixed right it won’t turn out right etc. I use to use a single stage with a gloss hardener. But now there’s DuPont, PPG, House Of Color etc. My saying is if the Bodywork ain’t right, Paint it White. Lol. Well thanks for the info on the compressor if you can get it to me I live in the Northeast Ohio and I just get a lot of water coming out of my airline and into my air tools I don’t have a lot of water in the compressor itself so I’m just kind of confused on where all the waters coming from and don’t want to be spraying and have water come out onto my worksurface so if you could just give me that certain information maybe that’ll just kind of give me a Headstart as far as what to look for and how to set it up.
Thanks Again Big Jim
Hi Jim, I use a 1 HP Sears (US made Campbell H.). Here's a video on that topic - ruclips.net/video/53miAObOdVY/видео.html
As for water, I drain the tank after every use. Then only when I paint I use an in line water trap like - www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html?cid=paid_google|||68224&gclid=CjwKCAjw4871BRAjEiwAbxXi2-qFuTaOL4cDFV285s4rBIufALskjFaU8ugYG72n6l6I1AOOPzlDaRoC6I4QAvD_BwE or this work really well but $ - mastertoolrepair.com/motorguard-toiletpaper-filter-m60-12in-s1136-p-4039.html
And for painting try not to worry about it. Always plan on a problem - that's what I do - bugs, dust, runs, dry areas, sags, missed areas, mottling, etc. For fool proof painting use BC/CC and just plan on doing a little buffing on the problem spots or lightly wet sand and buff the whole thing. It's good for your arms anyway :)
Lakeside Autobody Lol Thanks. I just annoyed when I am using air tools, ratchets, impacts, spray guns. I have a nice HVLP Gun with a Regulator and Filter on the gun itself. But for some reason I get so much water out of the airline and into my tools. So I might try a trans cooler, with PTFE Hose, and I have a couple other filters that I’ve had I might just throw on. I have a Coleman 30 Gal Single Stage. I will definitely look into what you sent. I appreciate you responding. By the way you do nice work. And to the standards I do. You got one shot to make it right. Thanks Bud
I’m sure the repair came out ok, but I would have buzzed the grinding edges with a D.A & feather the paint edges first before filling. Could you not gain access from inside to lever the dent out ?, did you prime straight over bare metal without using an etch primer first ?
Never do that because it actually shines the bare metal and nothing likes to stick to smooth surfaces. You can DA painted surfaces and apply filler but not metal - the paper dulls then rubs and shines. That's what gives filler a bad name. On metal - only apply filler over 36 grit scratches from a new 36 grit fiber resin disc. The filler will be there forever.
Good stuff! I'd like to se this done, say for instance, if a guy only had a slide hammer.
Dude, if you read this, don't freak out. You know how you start to really love a nurse that takes care of you, no matter what she looks like? I'm getting the same feeling for you...
That's funny 'cause I was in the hospital once for three months and loved it! The nurses treated me so well - I felt like I had three shifts of moms coming to see me. Glad you feel that way though - that's a good thing to have in life :)
Subbed! Got your message I'll be looking for the next one. Thank you sir!
Thanks for subscribing. Feel free to ask any question on any video. Your specific ? doesn't have to relate to the video. Have a great weekend :)
Just the video I was looking for good info
Glad you found it useful. Have a good week Shooter :)
Number one operator to good 🇦🇺👍🏽
Thank you - glad you liked it
Love your videos. What are you using to pull?
On this project I used a pogo stick - like this - Keysco Tools 77175 The Hustler Stick Alignment Bar I also use a Champ 10 ton frame puller for bigger stuff. Glad you enjoy the videos my friend - have a good week :)
Since it was a door I figured you would just knock it out from the other side. That’s a neat trick
It saves from having to take the door apart - breaking clips, cold plastic, time, etc - Happy New Year.
Wow that little dent turned into the whole door paint job, thanks
You're welcome
A little dent can raise a lot of the metal around the dent. It's usually not noticeable until you start working on it. Thanks for the video.
Great work Jerry!
Thanks Curtis :)
Very nicely done!
Thanks G&S - glad you liked it :)
Something I just figured out ... always looking for someplace to ground the mig .... use your ground clamp to hold the tab your welding on
Good thinking - I like it. When you pull huge dents big tabs work real well as compared to a stud welder. You can then grab them with a Mo-Clamp or something similar
I also tried with my floor jack as someone else suggested welded a couple of hooks to the handle worked excellent pulled a 2 foot cease in a tailgate no problem.
Lakeside Autobody I have a magnetic ground clamp. So I clean off an area a little bigger where the repair is gonna be. And stick it to it. It’s right there next to where I’ll be welding so it will have a good ground for sure.
Now for the ones doing this at home. They could buy the tabs ect but what you are not showing them is how you are pulling that keeping tension for newbies ect. Video gets a c +
Here's a better explanation on this pulling method - ruclips.net/video/2ruWMV85DUw/видео.html
Great video mate.
Thanks - have a good week
@@LakesideAutobody you too!
Excellent. 👍
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Awesome keep up the good work
Thanks, Happy Holidays.
Great job thank you for sharing
You're welcome Bill :)
Very nice job, thank you.
Thanks - you can use a stud welder on a lot of stuff but when it comes to very large dents it's best to spread the pulling out by using pieces of sheet metal or really, we used to use those "U" shaped shims - real handy, clean and ready to use.
Can you spay primer over guide coat pin holes and scratch s
Pin holes will bubble the paint and primer (pinholes that penetrate the steel). If it's just pits from rust that were sand blasted but not through - yes. Scratches may or may not show through eventually if the primer and paint shrinks into them. I've had them show up down the line and sometimes got away with it. Might depend on the quality of the primer and paint. Best to be safe and sand those scratches out. Jerry
Thanks
What bondo do you use?
Anything cheap but right now _ autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=1868 19-20 bucks/gallon
Can you use a magnet?
Do you mean will a magnet stick to it now after filler or will a magnet pull the dent?
Cheese grater is so good. I'm getting a couple.
Save your lungs!
I like this idea too ... not seen it before
Great job
Thanks Virgil - glad you liked it. Have a good weekend :)
What make of air sander are you using.
The air file is VIking and the Hog is National Detroit - both very good tools
Nice job
Thanks
Brotha how much would you charge for a job like that 2019 ?
In a body shop it would be pretty expensive - $500 and up because they would want to blend onto the adjacent panels to match paint. In a home shop it's really a 1 day job so 100 for materials (paint and hardener alone is around 75) and 100 for labor? - around 200 bucks would be on the cheap side.
@@LakesideAutobody wow! . Thank you so much for the information.
@@visaj2125 You're welcome
what is the hammering for? thanks
If you were to straighten out an "S" shaped piece of metal you would pull on the low spot and push on the high spot at the same time. This is what I'm doing with the hammer - as I pull on the low spot, I hit the high areas - I works the dent out very nicely using that method. Hope that helps - Jerry
I would have loved to seen a good PDR man go at that dent
Watch a PDR video then. This is how auto body really is really done.
Me too. I do PDR, and I cringed when he took that grinder to the paint. PDR would have been a much better solution for that.
Jason B , the problem is there aren't good PDR techs just everywhere. I have seen some people that claim to be PDR techs that made a mess of things! Really good PDR techs are really hard to find in smaller towns. Some decent ones travel to the smaller dealerships every couple of weeks if you can catch them there.
@@jasonb4614 I don't see to many PDR vids taking out serious creases or stretched metal - just nice rounded dents that looks like they created it. In a real shop the paint is always marred.
I had pdr to fix hail damage, guess what, some of the dents re-appeared so pdr is only as good as the tech and only useful if the metal hasn't stretched
I love the metal spreaders but the plastic ones work better for a repair like this.
I use both kinds - depends on the surface like you say :)
Thank you.
You're welcome.
Disaster all that mess for such a small dent , are you serious..??
That's how it's done in a shop. They don't paly around with PDR in high volume shops - takes too long. Jerry
I wonder if a dentless repair could have got that dent out.
If the paint isn't damaged at all, a good PDR guy/gal could get that out.
I notice on these videos there's always more work done when it comes back from a cut
Sometimes yes 'cause the video would then be longer and I try to keep them short to hold the viewers interest. I can't stand watching long drawn out videos - I'll just move on.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the response I know people are always in a hurry I try to get everything I can even how tools are held and worked thanks again for the vids
@@tantaluss68 You're very welcome - good to hear. have a good week :)
amazing
Thanks:)
@@LakesideAutobody you are welcome, do you recommend this method over a stud welder puller?
Also its time you get with new fillers that you dont need bare metal to get adhesion that is only for dura glass
I'm not real clear on what you said but here's a good video on fillers on bare metal vs primer - ruclips.net/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/видео.html
They dont use this method anymore this is really old hat. The dent can be pulled out without respraying
Not true at all - (Not trying to be mean, but just so that people who really want to learn this will know). A guy in a body shop who plays with the dent all day to save the paint (which 99% of the time is damaged anyway) will take forever, not make any money, the manager will be upset, the customer will be angry, and he/she wont last long. Just curious - what body shops have you worked in that they use PDR - paintless dent removal for all the dents? Jerry
I wouldn't let this guy repair the small dent if I were d owner!
If you want to work at a dealership, independently owned body shop, even MACCO, you better know how to do this. If you can't get filler straight, you're done. No playing around with PDR either - they won't stand for that :)
You must get a lot of sandscrach swelling after painting.
I don't - why would you think that?
yeah super old school man way to much fill couldve metal finished that all day long and kept it smaller or PDR
Your number one priority is getting the damage straight - don't worry about the size - most of the time you end up blending and clearing at least 2 panels anyway. Also, it's very rare that a panel comes in dented w/o paint damage so PDR is usually out of the ?. Just out of curiosity, how would you have gone about metal finishing this - would you push or pull the dent?
@@LakesideAutobody I'm not saying you did it wrong it is certainly one approach but the finished size is excessive and I would never sacrifice quality for size. I would've pulled it much in the same fashion but wouldve used wiggle wire and spent a little more time working it as opposed to just setting the brows in and filling it up with mud. And good painters aren't going to need two panels to blend a door... if it was at my shop our painter panel matches the paint provided you keep your work no larger than necessary depending on location of dent of course. And by the way you should get a smaller grinder man this is 2020 lol.
Wooow!
Amazing way to fix a simple dent in a hard work... so it's more easy broke the door than repair it.... hahaha man you most better buy a new one😂😂😂😂
Good job.....i hate Body Lines..........pain n the ass.....
Thanks - I have a few videos coming up on body lines.
That is what we call a bog artist.
Thought they’d disappeared.
My car restorer doesn’t need to use body filler.
Then he must use new panels. Ask him to do this repair w/o filler. ruclips.net/video/36zkc9UQaTs/видео.html - Trust me they use filler too- even thick primer is considered filler.
Lakeside Autobody
No it is hand dollied, hand shrunk, file finished, joints lead filled, etch primed, thin coat of 2 part primer, sanded and painted.
No body filler, or I don’t pay.
@@bentaxelrod The point I'm trying to make is there is a lot of fantasy out there like folks can fix stuff without filler. Yes you can - tiny to moderate dings and dents. In a body shop you have to be able to fix anything and I mean anything. Semi tires that come over guard rails and hit cars in the windshield, rollover accidents, serious rust damage and demolished quarter panels, etc. They are not doing the rust damage and collision damage that regular body shops do. If they are stating that they butt weld rust repairs and metal finish beware! See this video and what Eastwood has to say about it - ruclips.net/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/видео.html
Just saying 'cause so many folks say "no filler, no filler" that's leading folks in the wrong direction.
Lakeside Autobody
Oh come on.
We have a large smash repair shop around the corner from the restoration company who does just that.
I’ve stood there and watched them do it.
They lead fill only and they have always been flat out.
They are quick, accurate and the largest in the city.
There’s not a sniff of body filler in the whole place.
I restored a car in 1978. Where I lead filled, it is still perfect.
Where I used body filler it needs to be redone.
@@bentaxelrod First let me say, "Nice talking to you - I enjoy the debate" Next, a lot of shops do not apply filler in the correct way. Have to use a fresh fiber resin disc 36-40 grit on a grinder made for body work (can't be high speed and shine the metal). Also it has to be put over a solid metal surface (no thin rusty, holes, etc). See these vids - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html That Charger's paint job was done in early 1990's - looks perfect more than 25 years later -driving in Detroit (salted roads) Again, nice talking to you. Funny, my dad was a lead guy and I used to play with those lead sticks - bend them around. No lead poisoning :) Jerry
I do auto body repair and I find so many things wrong with what this man is doing ...
He did not need to grind off all the paint and use that tool for the body line and since he did that why not attach the tool to the other two dents below and above the body line and pull them out to use very minimal filler but yet he filled in those two dents...
Can you use the grinder which leaves very big gashes in the middle making your job a lot harder he could have use 80 grit and take down the paint..
He did not use any etching primer from what we could tell I'm more than sure he would have mentioned it if he did.
I still don't understand what all the hammering was about when the dent was still in you don't Hammer a dent out without a dolly pressing against the inside panel also if he was pulling on those two dents from the top of the body line and bottom then I could see using the hammer we all know this message but without putting any pressure on that dent there's no reason for the hammer it doesn't make any sense...👎
The hammering is knocking down the high spots as you pull on the low spots ( I'm pulling at the same time as hammering)
It doesn't matter how deep scratches are from a grinder
This is really how it is done in a body shop some use a stud welder but when the dent is huge you weld shims of sheet metal to the panel for pulling more surface area
Forget about getting behind with a dolly as most of the times it's not accessible - just start pulling right away and you'll be faster than anyone in the shop - while they play around taking the inside of the car apart to get the dolly in there - you'll be done already
Finally self etching prime is not used in a body shop - just regular old primer surfacer - goes right over bare metal - same with filler - right over bare metal
@aaron anderson Negative.
Now I know everybody has there own way of pulling a dent out with a body line etc but dude the make slide hammers and stud guns with studs that you can just twist off now you gotta grind down the tac welds you just did
This is just a demo on a little dent using this method. When you're pulling huge dents a stud gun doesn't cut it. I used to repair dents in Lincoln quarters and truck bed sides where you'd need 3 or 4 inch sheets of metal welded on to pull from. I'd spread the filler with an 8 inch piece of card board :) You had to use a Kansas jack to pull some of the dents - slide hammers and little studs would not suffice.
Why didn't you grind the paint off all over the car
Do you mean strip the car? If so, you only have to do that if the original paint is damaged in some way or too many layers of paint. Otherwise it acts as a good primer.
This video should have been done in black an white because that's how bodywork was done in the 1960's, big grinders and lots of bondo
See these videos for the longevity of this type of repair: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
Did you notice that at 18:44 the light dark pattern looks like a zombie head?
I see it! I see it! It also looks like Bevis.
I like to feather the paint with my hog before the filler lol
You're right - sounds like it's from the Urban Dictionary :)
That body line looks like dog the way to do it is use a flexible plastic or small black rubber squeegee and wipe the bondo horizontally bending the squeegee to match the curve you can tape half of it off only doing one side than come back and bondo the other side that way you can get it super smooth obviously wiping it vertically leaves it lumpy making it much harder to sand it right. Think about it apply the bondo lumpy like he does and you make your job harder, Put it on smooth is 50% of the straightening process and if your a rookie you have a better chance not to F up while sanding smooth bondo than you do sanding bondo that looks like the surface of the moon
If you get one to look like this, I'd love to see your work. ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html Instead of constant negativity, upload some of your work to the "Your Projects" page. discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu
Is he laying bondo or decorating a birthday cake? Put it on quick and knock it down!
If you really want to learn how to get filler straight - fast and efficient watch a few more videos on this channel under the dent repair playlist. You want to get your filler straight in 1 shot - not in multiple apps - remember in collision shops you get paid by the job - speed = money. Here's a job that should take one day - ruclips.net/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/видео.html
Yo just drill a hole in the middle and pull it with a pulling tool no need for All that boss man
Your boss would be very angry with you if you did that as it is not an accepted practice in a body shop. It leave little volcano type holes and unfortunately the hole is the highest part. When you put filler over it you have a hole very near the surface.
Get yourself a gys system
Thanks for the tip :)
It's painful to watch... Obviously you're a professional in what your'e doing BUT It's JUST a tiny dent! You either ignore it or get it fixed with PDR, which would not cost more than $200 max and 2 hours of work. (I'm not even a pro but I do PDR on my own dents with great results. What people don't realize is that NO PAINT JOB comes even close to the factory paint. NO PAINT JOB can ever match the color of other panels, no matter what anyone says, it's just impossible to color match a factory paint. People, please don't destroy your cars.
In the real world it's pretty hard to come across a perfect dent for PDR - no creases, no scratches, no marred paint, no stretched metal, nice and smooth. You almost have to carefully create it yourself in order to demonstrate PDR or make videos on it - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Sorry but that's simply not true. Watch the video I posted.
@@DrCeramicDallas I've seen plenty of PDR videos - in fact my dad was pretty good at it and taught me a little bit about it in 1979 - he had the picks, etc. and even used a propane torch sometimes real light to bring up a ding. In a real shop setting though there is no time to fiddle around with a dent for too long - boss says, "How long are you going to play around with that thing?" I've heard that a few times and it don't feel good. Again - I've seen a few dents that could be fixed using PDR but generally they need to be bumped, and filled. Not too much metal finishing going on either - metal's too thin and springy for that. Maybe back in the old days.
We may have to fill it .. again ................ Bahaaa , Bahaaa
Awesome. 80 yr grtgrndma.....
Thanks
It will shrink 100 percent
With respect, he only thing that has the possibility of shrinking is when folks are bad at getting their filler straight and then try compensating by spraying tons of lacquer primer surfacer over it in order to have something to block sand or to help them get it straight. 2K (two part) materials never shrink and filler is 2 part. Things that don't shrink are filler, 2K urethane primer surfacer, and polyester primer which is also 2K - If you use lacquer primer in the right way it will never shrink either. Just can't bury the scratches and poor filler work with tons of primer to hide it - those are the facts :)