Full Smog Deletion 5.8l Windsor 1994 Ford Bronco/F-150: What it Takes
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- Опубликовано: 17 ноя 2018
- How to remove smog components on Ford Bronco/F-150
Links to everything you need to do this:
Resistors: amzn.to/3bqH4nK
Head Plugs: amzn.to/2XVVI2q
Vacuum Plugs: amzn.to/2VPPNce
Vacuum Lines: amzn.to/3eQ3W26
Smog Pump Dummy Pulley Bracket: www.ebay.com/itm/68110-Ford-M...
(The pulley is 1" smaller than the original, you can either get a smaller belt or do what I did and buy this AC delete bracket and pulley: amzn.to/2VMdzGi and swap pulleys onto the bracket that you buy. This will allow you to stay OEM sized belt and keep tensioner at OEM level).
EGR Block off Plate:
www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Blank-...
EGR CEL Plug: www.egrperformance.com/produc...
I hope this video helps someone out! If I'm missing any links, please let me know and good luck!
Thank you so much for your love and support guys! Every view, like, comment, sub, etc helps out so much and I hope you enjoy the content! 
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I just added a link to every part in the description under the video! I hope this helps everyone who is needing part numbers and what not!
Don't forget to Subscribe if this video helped you out! :)
P.S. Sorry I took so long to get back to you guys! Didn't realize this video reached so many people and I hope it helped! Feel free to email me if you need help with anything!
I just bought a 5.8 bronco yesterday for my son's first vehicle and a project for him and I. Almost every vacuum line needs to be replaced so I planned on doing this. Thank you for making it that much easier! Did it help it run any better? Or just got rid of some if the complexity?
@@bglenn2222 it wasn't much faster but 100% drives better, no CEL, and much much cleaner
That's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you for the response! Just ordered all the parts on your list to do this with my son!
@@bglenn2222 good luck! You'll need it on the backside of the engine, maybe have him do it if he's smaller than you haha
He's certainly smaller, but it isn't going to be fun... I'm aware of that. Lol I ordered headers as well that include the EGR delete so there's no welding required
For anyone wondering about the resistors. The ones listed that were 75ohm 1/4 watt kept burning up. I got 75ohm 3watt resistors recommended from a forum and so far they are working fine.
Good info, it's so interesting because I'm still on the same resistors. I'll have to upgrade for the peace of mind!
@@AlphaTube Also, for anyone who just wants to plug and play fiveologyracing makes a "THERMACTOR (TAB/TAD) ELIMINATOR KIT" which are plugs that are about $40.
@@kjb6684 have you seen their MAF conversion kit? I want to buy it sooooo bad
@@AlphaTube Yeah, I'm just finishing up a rebuild of my 93 5.8 w/ gt40 heads, comp cams, edelbrock intake, jba headers. Once I get the bugs worked out I may swing back around at some point and do the MAF conversion to get all the hp I can get out of it.
@@kjb6684 really sweet build, I have a 93 regular cab. Trying to make a lighting replica. You should upload a video of yours .
Thanks for the links to the parts and the excellent breakdown. I've been dealing with this f'in smog pump and pulley for years, but didn't know how to get around it.
Best Video of the SMOG delete process on RUclips hands down!!. Thanks for all your hard work and research to show us it can be done. My '88 E350 Motorhome is impossible to work on with all the air injection garbage in the way.
Thank you! I spent a lot of time figuring out how all the systems operate together and how to make it all work after removal!
Thanks for this, sounds like a good winter project for me. Appreciate all the links. Makes it much easier.
I have a 1995 5.8 that I was planning to do this all too because it’s cheaper and easier than replacing the pieces that need it. By far the best video out there, I’m sure I’ll have some questions when I get to doing it. But thanks for the video!
Feel free to contact me if you need help! Sorry for the late response!
Hey yall. I almost followed the whole thing. I was lost. I still have vacuum lines that I have no idea where they go. Somebody please help me finding what vacuum lines I. Eed and where the hell they go
@@AlphaTube
I did what u did one day and started cutting shit out the way. I don't know what vacuum lines that I need or where they go. Can u help me figure this out?
This link should help, it's a diagram of the vacuum lines and some other info. I'd suggest Googling "19xx Ford bronco vacuum diagram" and use what works best for you. This one helped me understand the vacuum pretty well. www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/1995-5-8-vacuum-lines.510045/
There is also a full breakdown of vacuum lines in guides like the Chilton guide too, hope this helps!
You rock. Thanks for doing the hard part and figuring it out. Great video.
Great informational video narrated perfectly. Smog pump is one of Ford biggest F-ups. Glad there’s guys like this around to fix that shit.
I've been having a 95 for four or five yrs and the smog pump pipe going into the back of the exhaust crossover tin pipe was unhooked when I got it. I stuck a wooden drawer knob in there to plug it. I've thought about wanting to get rid of the catalytic converter and world be nice I believe. I just changed the timing chain on the truck which had been needing it and the timing cover since Ford had a little trick on it. Thanks for the info.
Been wanting to do this for the longest this video has been so informative i couldnt appreciate you more rn!
Heck yeah! Good luck and get some beer haha
I'm in the process of doing the smog delete right now and I ended up taking the whole TB and intake plenum off to clean everything better but also to make getting to the back of the motor easier and it helped A LOT!! Not very hard to take all that off and it make sit SOO much easier!
I wish I had done this when I did mine! There was a literal rat nest under mine, I cleaned it out well but would have been much easier lol
Got my upper off found a rat nest acorns etc. Went ahead and took valve covers off too driver side not bad, pass side was terrible black carbon. It had set up a 8 yrs b4 I got it running again so got some cleaning and painting to do had already ordered gaskets. Then to get it back together it should run like a new bronco. Will be back for more info/help thanks a bunch glad I'm doing this.
I also had a literal rat nest under my intake manifold and had to remove it because I was worried it would start a fire! I'm happy the vid helps out, my pleasure!
This is awesome. We were looking for what we could delete. This couldn't be more perfect!
I welded the top of the pipe after removing the valve where it comes up from behind the back of the engine instead of plugging the holes. Worked great 👍🏽
I changed my smog pump twice on my daily driver 1995 F350 crew cab 5.8 125k ... Thanks for sharing 🛠🤳🤗
I use on my "90 - 84 1/2 belt w no dummy pulley
Thanks so much! I know I've never said this before, but... I love you
Hey my man, found the video I know it’s old but it severely helped me. I just gotta put new lines for my MAP and FPR. Really helped man thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m about to buy a 1994 5.8 Bronco as well found this by total chance and will definitely be following this !
Thanks man just did this to my 93 f250
Great overview. This is 100% the exact same setup & components on the 1993 5.8L in our F350 - if that's helpful for anyone.
This is a great video and awesome that you left links for parts used! Appreciate it!
I hope it helps out with your build!
Thanks much for the full video with links!
bro you the real MVP this video/parts/links are golden. thank you so much
Got you brother!
Thank you so much for this video, I’ve watched a bunch of videos that sucked. This is the best one I’ve seen.
Also your engine bay is super clean 👍
Thank you! I made it because I had the exact same problem!
i think im gonna do this in the spring. ill have a secondary gas getter by then and have some time to source parts/info while I wait. restoring a 95 f150 ext cab sb with the 5.8. this would clean up my engine bay so much.
Been wanting to do this to my f150 thank you so much!!
Thank you thank you thank you
You made my project so much easier
The holes on the back of the head can also be plugged by using 1" long 5/8 11 tpi bolts. That's what I did on my convsersion, I torqued them down to 80 ft lbs.
Thank you for listing the bolt size and thread. I'm working on this right now if you have any tips
It was 9/16 for my e150
I know this post is a year old now. Hoping you will still be able to reply. I purchased the head bolts suggested in post and did not fit. Than purchased these 5/8 11tpi bolts and there the same size as the head bolts. Still do not fit??
Like the plugs for the back of the head? I recall them being really really tight when screwing them in. Like almost felt like it wasn't threading but it kept going and wasn't a strip. Haven't heard of them not fitting for anyone else yet boss
@@AlphaTube Yea the plugs. The drivers side I was able to get the thread start and like you said they are super tight almost making me nervous. I'm using the 1" long but havnt got it all the way . Should it go all the way? The passenger side I'm dreading cause there no room lol.
Thank you for adding the links to your description. I had the worst time trying to find the EGR plug for some reason. Now I know where to get it!
Got you my guy!
Where did you get your egr plug
Link in bio brother!
Great video. Answered a lot of questions I had. By far the best video on the topic.
Thank you, it took me a lot of time to figure out all the systems and how they operate amongst each other!
@@AlphaTube Yea its a pretty elaborate system. I got a 95 f150 with a 5.0 about a year ago that already had the smog pump deleted but nothing else so I've spent a lot of time researching what to remove, disconnect, or plug.
What is the wattage and the resistors you put in your plug for the the smog pump removal
Great Job, I have a 93 f250 with 5.8 ... same set up. I did a frame off restoration and I have to say... most of my problems came from what you deleted.. the canister, vacuum lines, egr, tab,tad, lines to the cat, I am definitely doing this. Thanks for the quick informative video.
Absolutely! I hope it helps, and yes there was literally a rat's nest built under my tad and tab connectors, like a legitimate rat home lol I wore gloves and then super cleaned that whole area afterwards
Got any video or pics of your frame-off?
Thinking about swapping frames. How difficult was the frame off job?
Very nicely done. Great video
Great video thanks for doing all the hard work for us
Just a guy that wants a reliable and strong running bronco! Glad it is helpful for you boss
The 'soup can' is the vacuum reservoir. The smog pump is for emissions. Neither have anything to do with EGR.
This helpt me a lot 👍
I’m in Texas. I have a 1990 Eddie Bauer Bronco I bought new. Just found out once they are 25 years old you can remove every bit of emissions control if you wish. I am in the process of taking everything off including the EFI system. Replacing camshaft, installing aluminum heads, and Edelbrock pro flow 4
EFI. It has its own computer that you set up with a tablet you should check into it.
I'm moving to Texas in a few months so this excites me! I've been wondering about smog laws there and I'm hoping I don't run into any issues with registering it. Mines a 1994 so also 25 years old +. I've been looking into converting to MAF but it's so pricey.
absolutely perfect vocabulary kick ass video man ima certified ford man i don’t think i could have said it better i just bought a 95 F150 5.8 4x4 step side as a project one owner truck taken great care of till the ole man died that owned it then it sat for ten years got it for a 1,000 dollars window sticker and all records of service in the folder from the dealer his son-in-law sold it to me he wasn’t a car guy at all
Dang man that's a gem! I flew out to Colorado to pick mine up and drove it all the way back to California! And yeah it was A LOT of work learning all the systems and piecing it all together to do a full removal. I originally was going to replace all the lines but it was in such bad shape and it bothered me that it was near impossible just to change put the plugs with the smog lines running down the side of the motor
Only thing I wouldn’t delete is the fuel tank purge. I like to keep the tank pressure steady.
I was wondering where he ran those lines because the switch is still hooked up. Maybe I will just put the purge back in with new lines.
Iam dealing with those crapy vacum llnes. 94 5.8 BRONCO . I Started with replacing fuel pressure reg . easy fix .2 bolts V- line..ran fine for 2days. .Things went south from there..at stated up one morining it went 1500 RPM & stayed .. sure enough it's that mess inthe back.
. WHO WAS THE MORON at ford design THAT SIGNED OFF ON ""PLASTIC ."" VACUM LINES..
I LOVE YOUR SOLUTIONS. Outstanding WELL DONE.. THANKS FOR POSTING IT.
You're welcome and I hope you get this all sorted out!
Thank you! I am getting ready to pull a 351W out of my beloved truck that tragically has irreparable frame damage and put into another 95 F150 with a blown 302. I will be able to remove all the smog get up when doing this. If I can I am going to video the whole process from start to finish. Wish me luck. :)
That sucks but there's always a positive to everything! Good luck and I hope my video helps out, those back smog plugs will be a breeze with the motor out of the truck too!
3 years late but I also have a beloved 1995 f150 with a "blown" 302. I'm putting in a 460 zf5 and Dana's.
I'm here for my other obs ford...yes I have a problem.
My MAN, this is what i needed
Got you!
After all of this does the truck run any different? Better or worse mileage-wise?
I have a 1997 F-250HD 5.8L with 186K on it as a daily driver.
Good work bro, quick question, what size plugs did you use for the intake manifold and tank fuel return line. Also where did you purchase them? Thx in advance.
I purchased them on eBay, message me if you still need this info and I'll get it to you!
It’s a 5/8” bolt with coarse thread, or you can get a threaded plug with the same size and threads. Any Ace hardware will have them
Really appreciate all the links and help.
Thank you so much for the super thanks! Happy to help other get there 5.8l running "clean"! Haha
What was the part number for the egr sensor thing that you plugged in?
i have done most of that on my 93 302 (which is exactly thesame) luckily i did it all when i installed a new crate motor. i cant image doing those plugs on the back of the heads with the engine in the truck!!. i still have to get rid of those relays,ect. good job and thanks for the video. there is always someone talking shit about wanting to keep all that stuff,but they can keep it.i will take the extra room and less clutter,and weight. look at that useless pile of shit on the floor,lol
EXACTLY MY THOUGHT PROCESS
Thank you. I have a 95 302 and as wondering if the removal was the same.
that "thing that goes to your fuel tank" is a gas tank vent and prevents it from becoming a bomb. the carbon canister reroutes the vapors into your throttlebody to be burned. its an improvement on any engine, regardless of smog regulation. It has nothing to do with smog, the valve simply regulates it based on manifold vacuum.
There is a vent on the tank itself and if pressure becomes too high will default through the cap all that system does it keep the expanding pressure from entering the atmosphere not if both the tank and cap vents fail then that's a possibility
Thanks, you helped me determine what some of the codes I am receiving are related too
Happy to help!
Thanks for the information brother.
did you say a 75om resister?
75 ohm resistor
Could you post links to any products you needed to by for plugs. Also did it improve the performance any?
Message me if you still need this info! And I wouldn't say that it made it faster, but definitely smoother and more efficient. I'll be installing maf conversion very soon too!
@@AlphaTube what is the wattage on the resistors of a 75 ohm
@@AlphaTube what's the maf conversion consist of? And I'm doing this to my truck rn could you assist me if I have some questions
@@troynelson9026 it's a full harness and CPU conversion that includes MAF sensor and a new air intake would have to be installed. Over $1000 :/ but planning to do it this year
@@AlphaTube what's the benefits of the maf?
Thanks! How did you handle the AC Blend door vacuum? I saw your post saying the T thing didn't work out. I don't have any AC diagram under the hood anymore. :(
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!! Ive been screwing around with my in the weeds find 88 f250. Got the 351w running great but i know it would do better with all that shit gone its all deteriorated. Now i know exactly what parts to order before beginning
Hope it helps and good luck on your build! 🤘
75 ohm resistor. How many watts?
Looks like 1/4 watt resistors and the ones he linked in the description from Amazon are 1/4 watt.
I want to do the same thing to an 88 F-150 I've got, going carb as well...
Make sure you do not have a automatic transmission with electric solenoids in it because it has to be hooked up to the throttle body and everything
@@gordonboehm2530
It does, but I've got a pre efi 4x4 C6
In my shop waiting for me to get to it.
What thickness is the new rubber vacuum lines? i need to go pick some up before I tackle this.
go into to start working on my 95 Eddie Bauer and hopefully this weekend and was thinking of doing this to it thanks for the info
How did this go on the 95
I fill you I'll have to do that to my 96 f250 ketchinhell thanks
why do you want to delete a mass air setup? a map setup I understand deleting that(speed density)
This is called "IDK WTF" Hahahaha LMAO! I'm about to take all that shit off my truck too nice video thanks!
where did u get the can p plugs
So what do I do with the canister purge valve? Is there a dummy plug or leave it ? Thanks
Did you see a noticeable power and mileage difference?
I'm curious as well! I have a 94 with a 5.0l that has always been pretty sluggish and gotten fairly horrible fuel economy.
I did this on a 91 with a 5.0. Maybe get a little better mileage, but nothing noticeable on power.
I own an 88 bronco (full size) and it's just a plow rig. I would love to do the same thing to it. Has a 5.0 V8 and all the crap you took off looks bad on mine. It looks like it's hard to do.
It's not too bad, just tackle it carefully and strategically! I like to make a list of each system and cross off as I go so I don't miss anything
Could you use the part you took off the back of the motor to make the plugs? (the thing behind the manifold by the firewall.) And if not how did you plug the two holes?
so on my 91 5.0 there are no threads in the holes in the back of the heads, so plugs don't work. also the egr tube goes from the egr valve back under the upper intake and into the actual intake, impossible to remove without takin the upper intake off. Oh and the resistors that you put in the 3 little connectors well they just literally fried as soon as I cranked it up??
All I can say F'n California. And its DMV money skeems. Thanks for showing 👍
Fucking liberals
If you guys are interested in having block off plates for the cylinder heads, LMR offers them for 5.0, 5.8, and 4.6L engines.
Where do you put the resistors? More specifically what slots? I am in the same boat
The "soup can" is your vacuum reservoir
That soup can has nothing to do with vacuum. It part of the fuel system
I'm having issues finding the EGR plate. And computer dummy plug. Any suggestions. I tried using the link provided and it's a dead end
Whe to the 75 ohm resistors that you used? Mine keeps burnimg up the 1/4 watt resistors.
What did you use to plugs the holes on the back of the head ?
What did you do to seal the canister purge?
Do you have another link for the egr block off plate?
The heater core hoses. One goes to the water pump and the other goes where? To the intake on the temp sensor right?
Did this engine have the air inner head or air inner manifold
any improvement on mpg? Hp? Anything???? Also does this require a reprogramming for the computer?. I have a 92 f150 xlt lariat 5.8l 4x4 flareside that I want to do this and remove ac.
1 issue with this is if you remove the Vacuum can the A/C will blow to the windshield every time you accelerate. You need a vacuum reservoir for that. Great job on the rest!!
Yeah I was already having that problem because of all of my broken up vacuum lines, I put in an aftermarket vacuum reservoir and it's fixed now!
Hey man curious about the resistors you used. I’m getting a thermactor code triggering check engine light
I just got a 94 Bronco not too long ago, and definitely want to do this at some point. That is a giant pile of stuff to get out of the engine bay lol
Does the dummy pulley allow you to use the same belt?
Where did u buy the egr delete plate frm? The one I bought frm Ebay was the wrong size.
what did you do with the egr / any parts used part # and supplier would be helpful
Helpful video. I’ve got a 97 f-250 and nearly all of that stuff was already missing, but the smog pump was still there (although not connected). This clears up a lot of questions that I had as to what went where, and what might be required but missing. Looks like I can just rip more stuff out rather than trying to get all the parts and rebuild that part of the system. Fuel pressure regulator is throwing me off as my truck has an aftermarket one and there’s no info I can find on its setup. Thanks for the nice video.
Thanks for this, I have a 1997 F250HD Reg Cab Long bed XL 351w ZF-5 S47. I already cut off the cat and single exhaust, ran it true dual with a pair of glass packs, 160 t stat, cap+rotor, new 130amp alternator. I am adding a C+L Blue Thunder coil, MSD 8mm wires, Motorcraft plugs+O2 sensor, electric fan, under drive pullys, already was A/C delete, smog pump delete, new idler pullys, I am going to try just sandwiching a plate between the EGR and intake, I am going to block off the backs of all the AIR injection lines and unneeded vacuum lines to start. Will probably get everything off the way you have. I am going to create a cold air intake also. Was looking at eBay headers also. Should be getting as much as I can out of this engine for now, eventually I want to put a 393/408/418/427/434 stroker kit in it, big roller cam, aluminum heads, single plane and a carb conversion. Long travel suspension, 35-39" tires, open up and widen the fenders, have a poor man's PreRunner. Might even cut the back of the cab and the front of the bed out modify a cap to fit snug with the cab and have a LWB Bronco.
I wanted to do a 4 linked LWB too dude! Maybe one day when I'm rich haha
O-Riely's RUBBER PLUGS WILL ROT AND FAIL AFTER 1 YEAR !! Those left-over O-E vacuum connectors w a screw plug works good. EGR w a block off plate , It and other Electrical plugged in and un-plumbed= no idiot light. Running an 84 1/2" belt without dummy pulley. 35 lbs lighter and runs great! Heavy '90 - F250 Z5spd 3.55gears gets 15 mpg and 10 overloaded..
'86 5.0 smog delete is about the same too. . Great Vid !!
Thanks for getting back, now doing the 75ohm 3watt resistors, do they have to be 1% tolerance or can I use the 5% tolerance which I have?
Where the plugs go you had to tap? What size tap is it?
Do you know which Egr plug you bought that made it perform flawlessly ?? Thank you !!
what did you do exactly to plug the 2 holes In the back of the motor?
Not to sound stupid or anything but can you still pass smog after or as soon as you do it you can kiss passing smog behind? I still have everything on my bronco but I can't pass smog because of this smog system, so just thought about getting rid of it altogether.
I can’t find an oring for the dipstick, do you have a size?
Think you just answered my question. You ran the AC and heat box to positive vacuum off the plenum spitter?? Is that right and it worked fine?
Just wondering if you put the small vacuum line check valve that was on the AC blend door (big black AC box) back on? or did you just run two fresh vacuum lines or a single T'd off line from the tree to each spot you pointed out?
Any other issues these past several months relating to all this?
Thanks!
Everything has been working perfectly since posting the video :) and the AC vacuum lines, they have to be separated from what I've found. I tried to T them and it didn't work correctly. There is a vacuum line diagram specifically for the AC unit under the hood that is perfect for this. Sorry for the late response!
Thank you for the awesome video, I have a 1992 F150 XLT with a headache of problems. I've already spent a lot of money on these parts un needed. O well. Cool video.
That was exactly what made me want to do what I did! Still driving this every day with the changes I made in this vid 🤘
Where did you get the dummy pulley
I am building a new motor do you have a list of things and instructions to follow particularly what to do with oxygen sensor on the y pipe?
How did y’all plug the two holes in the back? Set screws in tephlon tape?
Awesome !!! Thank you !!!
What did put on the egr Harness
Great video. I have a 94 Lincoln Mark VIII with the 32v DOHC 4.6. I want to cap off the egr port on the intake manifold and cap the egr tube. If I connect a 75 Ohm resistor across the pins on the plug that connects to the old EGR valve, will that help prevent the CEL light from coming on?
The 75ohm resistors are for the TAD and TAB harnesses. Nothing else. And I'd try to find a video or how to guide for that specific engine!