I've never seen someone put so much time effort and attention to details in a fence! Great job!! Thanks for sharing. I'll be doing my fence fairly soon and this has given me better ideas.
very good, I have a 3 ft chain link fence and i've been racking my brain how to upgrade to a 6 ft wood fence, I almost cut the post until I did some research and saw pictures and read instructions on how to use the existing chain link posts, I noticed one of my neighbors used the metal chain link posts. I hate chain link fence, I would never use it unless it was just to keep animal in or out. I found your video and I thought that is totally doable, my local HD doesn't carry all the supplies, but I think I can find them online. I've built a couple of wooden fences and honestly I would never use concrete, but having an already built chain link fence has been a challenge. I could dig them out, but they are cemented right next to a sidewalk and my concrete driveway, so that's not an option. I appreciate you putting this video together for the benefit of us all.
On Amazon: *STAINLESS 2" SCREWS: amzn.to/31B4RNG *STAINLESS 1-5/8" SCREWS: amzn.to/2S17h4T *STEEL BRACKETS: amzn.to/2SCeDKe *TWP1500 STAIN: amzn.to/2EG9fRc *POSTMASTER (no need for brackets with these!): amzn.to/2PxedX7 *TORCH FOR SHOU SUGI BAN BURNING: amzn.to/2YOTsHg *WESTERN RED CEDAR PICKETS: amzn.to/2QvusC9 RELATED VIDEOS: ~BEST WAY TO BUILD A CEDAR FENCE: ruclips.net/video/KYNQV0MglAI/видео.html ~HOW TO TRIM THE BOTTOM OF PICKETS: ruclips.net/video/poDbYEXMrHI/видео.html ~12ft NO SAG GATE: ruclips.net/video/Ih4mm3IzrYQ/видео.html ~CEDAR FENCE AFTER 2 YEARS: ruclips.net/video/glQahKbGevk/видео.html
Amazing fence! Coming from someone that owns a professional fencing company. You really did everything pretty much perfect! Very impressed. Only thing I would’ve done differently was used a thicker cut picket. A 3/4” thick western red cedar is our standard. Beautiful job.
That's the nicest fence I've ever seen. I'm about to try and build my first fence, and I'm trying to figure out what to do. You just set the bar pretty high with this masterpiece.
LOL, thanks man! I've definitely seen much nicer fence. I guess it all depends on how big your wallet is. Even with trying to sourceout good deals for the materials, this one still set me back pretty good. Good luck on your fence! And thanks for commenting
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Hi. Just watched the video. I saw that you butted the boards up next to each other. I'm wondering how much of a gap you ended up with?? Were the boards dried or green before install ?? Thanks
I dried them for a week or so in my carport. I don't remember exactly how long. So they definitely still had some moisture content to them. About a year later when the weather is dry for a few weeks, they have 1/8" gaps at most. Although if we get several days of rain, those gaps seal up
@@normal_norm2627 no problem man. And no not really, it really all depends on how big your budget is. If I had a larger budget I would have done something more extravagant. Something with more artistic features and contrast
Thanks for the quick response! I really like your workmanship. I am building the same style fence now with steel posts. Post depth 48 " due to frost line. As my property is not completely level if I put all the posts in at the same depth the post tops will not be level (2 or 3" variation) This is why I asked about using a string line to level the height of the inside posts. Sorry I'm a newbie with fence building.
No problem in thanks. Yeah I shoot to build things that will last. That's great that you're going down 48". Now that you mention it, that was actually one of the reasons I chose to go down so deep as well. That way the fence doesn't heave in the future. And oh I see what you're saying now. No I didn't worry about leveling the top. I actually went back with a pipe cutter and made them all level after the fact. I have a heavy duty rigid that cuts them like butter
Hey great video. I am building a very similar fence - same posts, same hardware, all cedar. I have not done extra prep on the lumber, however, but I did protect the bottom with a rock bed. Just wanted to point out a very big advantage to this construction - when the time comes to replace the lumber this will be easy-peasy.
it’s a beautiful fence. i will be fencing in my new backyard. i have to go to a fence company and i hope they have someone as informative as you and will do the best work . i am doing it for my two pups, one is a beagle and he likes to run. thank you .
You saved my life. Thank you for making this video. I tried getting the Postmaster but it was sold out everywhere. Then I saw your video and now I know I can do it with a common metal post. You the man.
Getting ready to install about 90 ft. of fence. Thanks for all the tips....nice job on the "over-kill," that's a good thing my friend! Hope mine turns out half as nice.
Thanks for your comment, and I'm glad to hear you found the video useful. Good luck on your project! I'm sure it will turn out amazing if you take your time.
Excellent tutorial on putting up cedar fence--ive been looking for just the right you tube vid. to show me how to put up a Pickett fence--and this was it. great job! Jon in Sonora ca.
My neighbor was cool with the bad side. 😊 i got samw concept ,but use 2x4 PT rails, cut top on 45 for water 💧. I also stain the rails BEFORE i screw the native rough pine pickets. Pine just needs 😂 quicker replacement
Actually I remember the main reason I didn't do something like that. I wanted the fence to be as low profile as possible because it's very tight backing into my yard
Awesome vid- direct and to the point. You didn't talk about the birds, the trees, and other philosophical "sht". My hero..lol..I have to do a shadow box fence due to HOA...but was wondering if the steel pole would work in the shadow box style.
Thanks man. And yes you could definitely do a shadow box style using steel poles. You might have to custom make some brackets though or you could Mount the two by threes going flat instead of vertically in between them.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow That is great news...and a key note for the installer....i'll have to translate because his English is not too good. ;-) Great insight...!
I have a cedar fence and the posts are rotting. I tried the metal repair plates.I have driven galvanized corner posts and attached them to the cedar posts and now I see flat metal posts from Menards and I will try that.
Thanks for not talking slow, quick succinct delivery, great techniques but I came for one question. The crimp on one end of the posts I think is to accept the cap. My boss says it's to go in the concrete. The label is on the crimped side so if you set the post the way I want to, the label is right side up which I figured was an indication of how to set the post. Correct me if I am wrong?
There are special problems IF you can't work from both sides, for example, if your neighbors will not allow you on their side to affix the brackets. Then you need to pre-drill and attach with screws so that you don't have to back the up with washers/nuts. Make sure it is a super tight fit, even consider glue on the screws so they don't back out later.
Awesome video. Thank you. Liked the idea to raise the grade instead of lowering the fence. Where can we get the kind of western cedar boards that you got?
Thanks and I got it from a local fence supplier in Trenton New Jersey. Best to just call around a few local suppliers. Some places it's much easier to get. Like out west
There are two issues with this otherwise bulletproof fence - 1) the most important place to put wood stain for longevity is on the ends of the fibers. In the tree, wood is nothing but a series of straws that allow moisture to go from roots to leaves. If you cut off the bottoms and didn't restain you lost most of your effort with the 360 degree stain. Stain looks good but its primary purpose is clogging the tree pores to keep moisture from transmitting and rotting. 2) Stainless steel screws are great against the wood but when used against the galvanized steel you are going to get galvanic corrosion between the zinc and stainless steel. Other than that this fence is still in the 1% of fences I've seen, I will be using it as inspiration!
Thanks Tom and I appreciate your input. I did restain the bottoms, I just failed to mention that in the video. Truth of it though, the average penetrating wood stain really only last for maybe a year at most before its waterproofing abilities have been depleted. Cedar seems to hold up pretty well sealed or not. As far as the stainless and galvanic corrosion. I don't think this is going to be an issue. I've used stainless against galvanized in many other situations where it hasn't been a problem many years later. Maybe down the beach with salt water hitting it it could be more of an issue though
just finished doing a 75' section of cedar fence in my back yard. AND I THOUGHT I WAS ANAL RETENTIVE!!!! I bow down to your excessive overbuild, sir. :) I did the same steel posts, but due to subterranean rock (12" below the surface), I had to drill holes and drive in 1/2" rebar, then pour concrete. One thing I did differently on this fence as opposed to others I've done in the past is I let the posts run approximately 6' 4 1/2" and put the top rail all the way to the top. That way, for the first time ever, I didn't have a string at the top (since the post tops and then the stringer) formed a nice straight line from end to end) and just raised the cedar pickets all the way to the top. Then, with the ground clearance, I ran the bottom rail all the way to the bottom of the pickets. The middle rail was approximately half way between the other two. I did go with nails since I had the nail gun and needed to get done in one day (well... brought in a crew to remove the old (cough, gag) basket weave fence, which was practically a condemned eyesore) on day one, then got the holes dug, drilled, and reinforced, posts set in concrete day two). One thing I didn't hear you mention was whether or not you used a level at all. I would level anyplace from about every sixth or seventh up to about every tenth board. That way, I didn't end up with a pie wedge piece at the end. Well, again, my hat's off to the great job you did, and the excellent video. Edit: on, one additional note. In our neck of the woods, the current style is to put a bottom trim piece running horizontally, a top piece also running horizontally, and a top plate. I used 1X6 cedar pickets with the dogears cut off for all three of these applications. The bottom rail allowed me to not have to follow the terrain with the vertical pickets (I live on a sloping hill), and the top plate gives the coons, possums, squirrels, and cats a safe place to walk.
Appreciate you sharing your story. Sounds like you built a top-notch fence. Yes you're right I forgot to mention the level. I used a level as I was putting the pickets up. I pulled it out every like 5 pickets or so to make sure that they were staying vertical. Had to rip a few along the way to get things squared up again.
@@stevenkyin4393 Part II shows the completed project. Part I just shows bare dirt and one post set in concrete. This link ruclips.net/video/UaCkx5dPSQM/видео.html is for Part II. Thanks for asking.
Love the over building! did you restail the boards after circular saw? just checking dont want all your good efforts undone with bottom end exposed. love the metal brackets I have to redo my old fence going to use your ideas. thanks
The only thing I can critique on this would be that having all your screw holes inline runs the chance of a linear crack in the board behind it it may be better to stagger drill each board in stacks at 3?
Good point! I don't think it will be an issue. This Western red cedar is pretty soft stuff. And the fact that I pre drilled the holes will also help reduce linear cracks
Pimp fence... You know it's pimp, good ideas for the money spent, you bring a great fact base to your build... Can't touch it really... Nice, I'm stealing this lol Building a rammed earth tire and sand bags home and property my second, I'm trying to smarsh the current status quo... This is something I think I likey...
The fence and video are amazing! I am back and forth on cedar or pressure treated, but where did you get the post? I can't find anywhere that sells them and I'd really prefer steel post
Thanks for this video! Not quite as crafty as you - and having a company put in a cedar fence with steel posts. However, after it is done, I'd like to box in the posts myself without messing up the integrity of the fence. You mention boxing in the posts in this video - do you have something that shows you doing it? or pointers you can share?
Glad you found the video informative and appreciate you commenting. I never ended up boxing mine in so I couldn't really give you too many pointers on it. I think every case is a little bit different. There are several ways to do it. But I'm sure if you look up some photos on Google you will get some great ideas. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
I'm honestly not that crafty and getting this fence built straight/ true was a struggle like most other projects. That's part of the reason I don't film while doing projects because it really just adds to the frustration
Great video. I'm planning on doing a fence like this but the Amazon galvanized fence post adapter is pretty pricey ($14.95 each). Lowes has a version that is currently $2.48 each Item#552310 Model #59040007
Great video! Think I might my street side fence with metal post. I have a question, why do builders always put the top 2x4 flat so they can warp? Is it better to have all 3 running vertical? Here in Texas we are putting a 2x6 treated on the bottom so the pickets don’t rot and get hammered by the weed eater. What do you do for the corners. Is there a special bracket? Thanks for the great video.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow the top one is horizontal and sits on top of the 4x4 and the bottom one sits vertical. They only use two. Maybe they do it so you can set your beer can on the fence
How is it holding up so far? I see the video is 4 years old. I put in fencing including wood fence. I might try that shou sugi just to see what happens.
Hey really enjoyed this video, it's the most inspiring fence video I've watched yet, I also like to overkill my builds. I'm getting ready to do a similar build but I'm thinking about doing Shou Sugi Ban for the pickets as well. I'm planning on brushing and sanding then sealing. Any vague guesstimate how many feet of fence a 5 gal of that twp could get me?
Great to hear you enjoyed the video. Five gallons will get you pretty darn far. Depends on how liberally you apply it though. But honestly no I'm not sure about how many feet
No I was never in the military. Always wanted to join but never pulled the trigger on it. Thank you for your service though! Over engineering is the only way to go.
Thank for sharing the video! Where did you get the SCH40 posts and how much did they cost? I can't find them at the big box stores. I'm the Los Angeles area. Thank you!
Do they make a bracket for the end post. Like my first post is going to go up against the house or do you offset the post and just start the the 2x4 up again the house and offset the first pole? ITs easier with a 4x4 post. Thanks for the advice.
Here is a question. Here in South Texas we have High Heat, Humidity and about 50" rain a year. I could see where the 6ft poles would help with the distortion of the wood. The home builders do not use treated 2x4 for cost reasons. The 15ft return to house makes a interesting problem. Do i put poles at 0ft, 3ft, 6 ft and then 15ft to start the long run or 1ft, 7 and then15?
Where did you get the metal post to 2x4 bracket? I have 2x2 medal posts already in the ground and cant find any brackets to attach the 2x4 runner to. the one you have at least hast flat sides. Thanks Steve
How is that shou sugi ban holding up? And would you use twp1500 again? I'm seeing alot of advice for just tung oil. I'm sure you did alot of research, I'd appreciate any input you have. Thank you and nice Job!
Shou Sugi ban is holding up great. And I've had great luck with TWP 1500. I used to use TWP 100 but can't get it anymore due to the laws. I haven't used tung oil so I couldn't really give my two cents on that. But yeah based on all my research TWP 1500 is an excellent product. And it's lived up to his expectations for me. For flat surfaces like a deck I wouldn't recommend it as much though. But for vertical services no problem
How tall are the galvanized post? I have a 5' chain link and i want to covert to 6' privacy fence, I'm basically wondering if I can use my current post, thoughts?
My posts are 9 foot. And stick out of the ground 6 foot. I had heard of guys reusing chain link post for a wood fence so you could definitely give it a go. However a lot of time they are spaced out 10 foot on Center which is too far. I mean you could still do it but you wouldn't be able to use store-bought panels because they are only eight foot
Ok I went to your links & I need pics of the torch, pine, & wood at bottom of fence uk a diy for dummies please & tia ( to purchase from Amazon & BTW they as in Amazon should sponsor u)
Hi. Do I really need to embed the galvanized steel posts in concrete? What if I pounded them down 3 or 4 feet into the soil/clay/limestone? What do you think? It should still hold up better than wooden posts in concrete as the freezing ground will not pop them out, right? Please let me know if you (or anyone) had experience with galvanized steel posts pounded to the ground without concrete/cement.
Yeah if it's good firm soil and you can get them in a few feet I'm sure it will hold up fine. But they might settle over time and the fence contact the ground. Causing rot and an uneven top line on the fence
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Wow, that was a fast response. Thanks! Yeah, I have hard clay/limestone. As for settling, I can always leave a gap at the bottom and/or adjust the panels later. I'm in no rush so maybe I could install posts one summer, and then wait a year to install the actual wooden fence. Either way, good video! I'm still debating between round steel posts like yours, or those square (or U-shaped with ears) PostMaster predrilled posts. Either way, I still need to figure out how to drive them 4 feet into the ground. It seems like I'll need one of these gas powered drivers.
I’ll never use a wood post again. When I discovered the clamps, some thirty years ago, I stopped putting wood in the ground. I’ve never had a rusting problem, either.
Yeah I'll never put wood in the ground either. Unless it's something I only want to last 10 or 15 years. Galvanized posts last wayyyy longer! Certainly not as attractive looking though
Looking for advice and your thoughts.... Building a 8 ft high fence in Florida (10 miles from the coast) using galvanized post like y'all did. Do you think 2 3/8" schedule 40 on 6' centers would be strong enough for our wind loads? Or should i bump up to 3 1/2 Schedule 40? Did you ever consider the OZ brackets? Any thoughts on brackets that clamp the post as opposed to set screws? Lastly... Thought of using a pneumatic post driver on 13' post driving them in the ground a little over 5' with no concrete.... Again thank you so much for and your time!-Travis
Hi Travis Hastings ; I’m out in Southern California, we don’t get hurricanes, but we do get these seasonal Santa Ana winds - 50-60 mph with higher gusts. Wood fence on 8’ 2 3/8” with 6’ spacing is working out well. I like the Simpson branded clamp brackets. Haven’t seen those with set-screws, but I imagine as long as the downward load isn’t heavy there should not be a problem. I set some 20’ 2 3/8” poles in my orchard to support fruiting limbs. I drove them into the ground five feet, no concrete. It’s working well too. I have sandy soils, so it wasn’t hard to do. Hopefully someone from Florida sees this posting and can offer help. Cheers
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Have done many pressure treat posts in the ground/concrete here in the rainy PNW and always hated the idea of the rain rotting out the posts.... but my wife hates the look of these rounded steel posts. Have you see any black/square steel posts that could be used as an alternative?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thank you for the replay. I saw those extra rails on some fences, but not quite sure about the purpose of it. I think they are to prevent rot on the bottom of the pickets. Probably I'll go without them, how it was on the original design. I'm just switching pickets for new ones.
I see your American Flag. Were you in the Military? I really enjoyed your video, you're highly skilled, so I will assume that you were in the Engineers; if you were in the military-uncle Sam really trained you well in the construction of fence building. I was in the US Army Engineer's however I was in Support, but, wished I had learned how to build things, instead of pushing paperwork.
Unfortunately no I was never in the military. But I'm a huge fanand thank anybody who has or is serving. Thank you for your service Edward! I'm certainly a patriot at heart and I fly the American flag proudly. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and I really appreciate you commenting.
Looking for advice and your thoughts.... Building a 8 ft high fence in Florida (10 miles from the coast) using galvanized post like y'all did. Do you think 2 3/8" schedule 40 on 6' centers would be strong enough for our wind loads? Or should i bump up to 3 1/2 Schedule 40? Did you ever consider the OZ brackets? Any thoughts on brackets that clamp the post as opposed to set screws? Lastly... Thought of using a pneumatic post driver on 13' post driving them in ground a little over 5' with no concrete.... Again thank you so much for your video and your time! - Travis
I'm really not sure how well the 2 3/8" would hold up during a hurricane. 3.5" would be nice, but I'm sure it's very pricey and kind of Overkill. I like the set screw brackets that I used better since they have a portion that allows the two-by-four to rest on top of them instead of just relying on screws only.
Driving the posts in without concrete should suffice for most soils however it's certainly not going to have the pull-out protection of a concreted post.
You can always use 16 foot stringers and start the middle one off with an 8 foot stringer to eliminate each post having end to end stringers thus making it pretty damn strong!
Dude immaculate attention to detail. You’re definitely a man that believes that you get what you work for. This was impressive.
I've never seen someone put so much time effort and attention to details in a fence!
Great job!! Thanks for sharing. I'll be doing my fence fairly soon and this has given me better ideas.
Thanks. And glad to hear the video gave you some insight and ideas. Appreciate you dropping a comment
Good luck on your fence project!
Attention to detail and your time can do amazing things as you have shown...... store bought can never match that
Yeah for sure! Sometimes it makes sense you go with store-bought. Especially for people who don't have the time messing with pickets.
very good, I have a 3 ft chain link fence and i've been racking my brain how to upgrade to a 6 ft wood fence, I almost cut the post until I did some research and saw pictures and read instructions on how to use the existing chain link posts, I noticed one of my neighbors used the metal chain link posts. I hate chain link fence, I would never use it unless it was just to keep animal in or out. I found your video and I thought that is totally doable, my local HD doesn't carry all the supplies, but I think I can find them online. I've built a couple of wooden fences and honestly I would never use concrete, but having an already built chain link fence has been a challenge. I could dig them out, but they are cemented right next to a sidewalk and my concrete driveway, so that's not an option. I appreciate you putting this video together for the benefit of us all.
I like the clamps for the fence posts. That was genius.
Where can I find those post clamps??
On Amazon:
*STAINLESS 2" SCREWS: amzn.to/31B4RNG
*STAINLESS 1-5/8" SCREWS: amzn.to/2S17h4T
*STEEL BRACKETS: amzn.to/2SCeDKe
*TWP1500 STAIN: amzn.to/2EG9fRc
*POSTMASTER (no need for brackets with these!): amzn.to/2PxedX7
*TORCH FOR SHOU SUGI BAN BURNING: amzn.to/2YOTsHg
*WESTERN RED CEDAR PICKETS: amzn.to/2QvusC9
RELATED VIDEOS:
~BEST WAY TO BUILD A CEDAR FENCE: ruclips.net/video/KYNQV0MglAI/видео.html
~HOW TO TRIM THE BOTTOM OF PICKETS: ruclips.net/video/poDbYEXMrHI/видео.html
~12ft NO SAG GATE: ruclips.net/video/Ih4mm3IzrYQ/видео.html
~CEDAR FENCE AFTER 2 YEARS: ruclips.net/video/glQahKbGevk/видео.html
you got another link for the steel brackets?
you got another link for the steel brackets?
Amazing fence! Coming from someone that owns a professional fencing company. You really did everything pretty much perfect! Very impressed.
Only thing I would’ve done differently was used a thicker cut picket. A 3/4” thick western red cedar is our standard.
Beautiful job.
Thanks man I really appreciate that. These pickets were technically called a 3/4 picket where I bought them from. But they were just under 3/4
Austin Garland sweet thx for that Info
I have a similar fence I put up 6 years ago I made my posts 4.5 ft apart and 4 string. Extremely strong
That's the nicest fence I've ever seen. I'm about to try and build my first fence, and I'm trying to figure out what to do. You just set the bar pretty high with this masterpiece.
LOL, thanks man! I've definitely seen much nicer fence. I guess it all depends on how big your wallet is. Even with trying to sourceout good deals for the materials, this one still set me back pretty good. Good luck on your fence! And thanks for commenting
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Hi. Just watched the video. I saw that you butted the boards up next to each other. I'm wondering how much of a gap you ended up with?? Were the boards dried or green before install ?? Thanks
I dried them for a week or so in my carport. I don't remember exactly how long. So they definitely still had some moisture content to them. About a year later when the weather is dry for a few weeks, they have 1/8" gaps at most. Although if we get several days of rain, those gaps seal up
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks for the reply bud. 👍😎
Can you think of anything that you would do differently?
@@normal_norm2627 no problem man. And no not really, it really all depends on how big your budget is. If I had a larger budget I would have done something more extravagant. Something with more artistic features and contrast
Thanks for the quick response! I really like your workmanship. I am building the same style fence now with steel posts. Post depth 48 " due to frost line. As my property is not completely level if I put all the posts in at the same depth the post tops will not be level (2 or 3" variation) This is why I asked about using a string line to level the height of the inside posts. Sorry I'm a newbie with fence building.
No problem in thanks. Yeah I shoot to build things that will last. That's great that you're going down 48". Now that you mention it, that was actually one of the reasons I chose to go down so deep as well. That way the fence doesn't heave in the future. And oh I see what you're saying now. No I didn't worry about leveling the top. I actually went back with a pipe cutter and made them all level after the fact. I have a heavy duty rigid that cuts them like butter
Hey great video. I am building a very similar fence - same posts, same hardware, all cedar. I have not done extra prep on the lumber, however, but I did protect the bottom with a rock bed. Just wanted to point out a very big advantage to this construction - when the time comes to replace the lumber this will be easy-peasy.
it’s a beautiful fence. i will be fencing in my new backyard. i have to go to a fence company and i hope they have someone as informative as you and will do the best work . i am doing it for my two pups, one is a beagle and he likes to run. thank you .
Thank you Sharon. Good luck on your fence and backyard! I'm sure your pups will love it
Wow very impressive. Alot of time put in but we'll worth it!
You saved my life. Thank you for making this video. I tried getting the Postmaster but it was sold out everywhere. Then I saw your video and now I know I can do it with a common metal post. You the man.
No problem buddy! Glad to hear the video was helpful and thank you for commenting!
Starting my fence build tomorrow. Thanks for this video.
You should be proud of yourself. It’s looking great 😊
Looks great, man. Yeah, A bit expensive for my budget, but would def like to do galv posts instead of 4x4s
Getting ready to install about 90 ft. of fence. Thanks for all the tips....nice job on the "over-kill," that's a good thing my friend! Hope mine turns out half as nice.
Thanks for your comment, and I'm glad to hear you found the video useful. Good luck on your project! I'm sure it will turn out amazing if you take your time.
Nice fence bro. You really went all out and your fence is something to be proud of.
Thanks Karl, I appreciate that
Excellent tutorial on putting up cedar fence--ive been looking for just the right you tube vid. to show me how to put up a Pickett fence--and this was it. great job! Jon in Sonora ca.
My neighbor was cool with the bad side. 😊 i got samw concept ,but use 2x4 PT rails, cut top on 45 for water 💧. I also stain the rails BEFORE i screw the native rough pine pickets. Pine just needs 😂 quicker replacement
You had me at shou sugi ban !
Way to go with that technique 👏 👌 😎
AND your attention to details !
My god 36" that is about twice as deep as I have been told 18-21" depending on how hard the digging is lol. Great job!
Super impressive! Great work!
Beautiful fence. Good fences make great neighbors.
Just simply beautiful! BB🧐
Love the bottom board for weedeating so you don't destroy your pickets.
Yeah I definitely the way to go. You get a little bit extra height out of the fence too
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow So those boards are not screwed in, at all??
My goodness, you are a perfectionist. To put into perspective how long is the fence and how much would that cost?
You’re a machine, man! Like the predrill.
great vid but where did you purchase all the metal for your fence gate?
looks awesum
Awesome and impressive work there. Really loved seeing the American Flag……
Thanks man
Awesome looking great eye for detail.
Dude 😳 woah thats beautiful
Great job!...thank you for all the great tips.
What perfectionist!, I'm surprised that you did not add a top trim board and also a top cap board, would really make your fence look high end
Yeah looking back I should have done something like that. Not sure if it would look good if I added it now
Actually I remember the main reason I didn't do something like that. I wanted the fence to be as low profile as possible because it's very tight backing into my yard
Love when I meet somebody who likes overkill there projects
Me too!
This is awesome!!! I like the attention to details
Very nice, I over build everything myself. Each post has 2 bags at my house.
Hey man glad to hear I'm not the only one!
Very nice, good job.
overkill rules....love your work and excellent video presentation!!!!
Thanks man appreciate the encouraging words
Looks great!!
Bad ass fence
Absolutely outstanding!
Thanks John Lee I appreciate the positive feedback!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow You bet!
Awesome vid- direct and to the point. You didn't talk about the birds, the trees, and other philosophical "sht". My hero..lol..I have to do a shadow box fence due to HOA...but was wondering if the steel pole would work in the shadow box style.
Thanks man. And yes you could definitely do a shadow box style using steel poles. You might have to custom make some brackets though or you could Mount the two by threes going flat instead of vertically in between them.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow That is great news...and a key note for the installer....i'll have to translate because his English is not too good. ;-) Great insight...!
Great job!
Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
I have a cedar fence and the posts are rotting. I tried the metal repair plates.I have driven galvanized corner posts and attached them to the cedar posts and now I see flat metal posts from Menards and I will try that.
It looks great!
Love Your Flag, Patriot! 🇺🇸 ❤️ 🇺🇸
Thanks for not talking slow, quick succinct delivery, great techniques but I came for one question. The crimp on one end of the posts I think is to accept the cap. My boss says it's to go in the concrete. The label is on the crimped side so if you set the post the way I want to, the label is right side up which I figured was an indication of how to set the post. Correct me if I am wrong?
Thanks for your comment. I'm not sure which crimps you are referring to? I cut these posts from 24 foot length that I got at a Stockyard.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow We just had some home depot precut posts.
There are special problems IF you can't work from both sides, for example, if your neighbors will not allow you on their side to affix the brackets. Then you need to pre-drill and attach with screws so that you don't have to back the up with washers/nuts. Make sure it is a super tight fit, even consider glue on the screws so they don't back out later.
Awesome video. Thank you. Liked the idea to raise the grade instead of lowering the fence. Where can we get the kind of western cedar boards that you got?
Thanks and I got it from a local fence supplier in Trenton New Jersey. Best to just call around a few local suppliers. Some places it's much easier to get. Like out west
@@NoNonsenseKnowHowthank you
Great looking fence! Appreciate the tips, also.
Good job looks nice
Thanks
There are two issues with this otherwise bulletproof fence - 1) the most important place to put wood stain for longevity is on the ends of the fibers. In the tree, wood is nothing but a series of straws that allow moisture to go from roots to leaves. If you cut off the bottoms and didn't restain you lost most of your effort with the 360 degree stain. Stain looks good but its primary purpose is clogging the tree pores to keep moisture from transmitting and rotting. 2) Stainless steel screws are great against the wood but when used against the galvanized steel you are going to get galvanic corrosion between the zinc and stainless steel.
Other than that this fence is still in the 1% of fences I've seen, I will be using it as inspiration!
Thanks Tom and I appreciate your input. I did restain the bottoms, I just failed to mention that in the video. Truth of it though, the average penetrating wood stain really only last for maybe a year at most before its waterproofing abilities have been depleted. Cedar seems to hold up pretty well sealed or not. As far as the stainless and galvanic corrosion. I don't think this is going to be an issue. I've used stainless against galvanized in many other situations where it hasn't been a problem many years later. Maybe down the beach with salt water hitting it it could be more of an issue though
After watching this video doyou REALLY think he would not stain the picket bottoms after cutting them? No way.
very good info. I am no expert on this. thanks.
Thanks buddy
For more overkill magic you could have cut a 30 degree slant on the runner to force rain water to run off further increasing the fence life!
That's a great idea! I actually thought about using aluminum runners as well. Another guy mentioned putting a cap over top of it to act as a roof
Yep! I did that.
just finished doing a 75' section of cedar fence in my back yard. AND I THOUGHT I WAS ANAL RETENTIVE!!!! I bow down to your excessive overbuild, sir. :) I did the same steel posts, but due to subterranean rock (12" below the surface), I had to drill holes and drive in 1/2" rebar, then pour concrete. One thing I did differently on this fence as opposed to others I've done in the past is I let the posts run approximately 6' 4 1/2" and put the top rail all the way to the top. That way, for the first time ever, I didn't have a string at the top (since the post tops and then the stringer) formed a nice straight line from end to end) and just raised the cedar pickets all the way to the top. Then, with the ground clearance, I ran the bottom rail all the way to the bottom of the pickets. The middle rail was approximately half way between the other two. I did go with nails since I had the nail gun and needed to get done in one day (well... brought in a crew to remove the old (cough, gag) basket weave fence, which was practically a condemned eyesore) on day one, then got the holes dug, drilled, and reinforced, posts set in concrete day two). One thing I didn't hear you mention was whether or not you used a level at all. I would level anyplace from about every sixth or seventh up to about every tenth board. That way, I didn't end up with a pie wedge piece at the end. Well, again, my hat's off to the great job you did, and the excellent video.
Edit: on, one additional note. In our neck of the woods, the current style is to put a bottom trim piece running horizontally, a top piece also running horizontally, and a top plate. I used 1X6 cedar pickets with the dogears cut off for all three of these applications. The bottom rail allowed me to not have to follow the terrain with the vertical pickets (I live on a sloping hill), and the top plate gives the coons, possums, squirrels, and cats a safe place to walk.
Appreciate you sharing your story. Sounds like you built a top-notch fence. Yes you're right I forgot to mention the level. I used a level as I was putting the pickets up. I pulled it out every like 5 pickets or so to make sure that they were staying vertical. Had to rip a few along the way to get things squared up again.
Jason, love to see a few photos of your fence.
@@stevenkyin4393 Part II shows the completed project. Part I just shows bare dirt and one post set in concrete. This link ruclips.net/video/UaCkx5dPSQM/видео.html is for Part II. Thanks for asking.
Love the over building! did you restail the boards after circular saw? just checking dont want all your good efforts undone with bottom end exposed. love the metal brackets I have to redo my old fence going to use your ideas. thanks
Thanks man! I'm glad you found the information helpful. Yes I made sure to restain all edges after trimming anything.
Look great man!
Really great video, thanks!
Thanks man. And no prob
The only thing I can critique on this would be that having all your screw holes inline runs the chance of a linear crack in the board behind it it may be better to stagger drill each board in stacks at 3?
Good point! I don't think it will be an issue. This Western red cedar is pretty soft stuff. And the fact that I pre drilled the holes will also help reduce linear cracks
Good advice,
Dope Fence!!!
Thanks man
Wow that is nice!
Thanks Randy!
Pimp fence... You know it's pimp, good ideas for the money spent, you bring a great fact base to your build... Can't touch it really... Nice, I'm stealing this lol
Building a rammed earth tire and sand bags home and property my second, I'm trying to smarsh the current status quo... This is something I think I likey...
Thanks, and awesome, sounds like you have some pretty sweet projects going on!
Looks good.👍🇺🇸
Thanks buddy
Nice job. I guess you could have beveled top of horizontal 2 x 4 so weather doesn’t rest on it.
The fence and video are amazing! I am back and forth on cedar or pressure treated, but where did you get the post? I can't find anywhere that sells them and I'd really prefer steel post
Great vid lil' dicky, love your fence and your raps!
LMAO
I was thinking he look like dicky to just a little bit
Thanks for this video! Not quite as crafty as you - and having a company put in a cedar fence with steel posts. However, after it is done, I'd like to box in the posts myself without messing up the integrity of the fence. You mention boxing in the posts in this video - do you have something that shows you doing it? or pointers you can share?
Glad you found the video informative and appreciate you commenting. I never ended up boxing mine in so I couldn't really give you too many pointers on it. I think every case is a little bit different. There are several ways to do it. But I'm sure if you look up some photos on Google you will get some great ideas. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
I'm honestly not that crafty and getting this fence built straight/ true was a struggle like most other projects. That's part of the reason I don't film while doing projects because it really just adds to the frustration
Looks really good. Maybe more expensive but I’d rather do it right instead of re-doing it later.
That's it. Do it right do it once
Holy! Thats a fence!!!
Nice work
Thanks Jose
Nice job!
Great video. I'm planning on doing a fence like this but the Amazon galvanized fence post adapter is pretty pricey ($14.95 each). Lowes has a version that is currently $2.48 each Item#552310 Model #59040007
Great video! Think I might my street side fence with metal post. I have a question, why do builders always put the top 2x4 flat so they can warp? Is it better to have all 3 running vertical?
Here in Texas we are putting a 2x6 treated on the bottom so the pickets don’t rot and get hammered by the weed eater. What do you do for the corners. Is there a special bracket?
Thanks for the great video.
Thanks. And I'm not sure I understand your question. I don't think I've seen the 2x4s put on flat
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow the top one is horizontal and sits on top of the 4x4 and the bottom one sits vertical. They only use two. Maybe they do it so you can set your beer can on the fence
Great fence. One of the best I have seen. How long did you let the pickets dry before you stained and installed them?
Thanks. I had them drying for about 3 weeks
This is exactly what i was looking for. Whats the diameter and gauge of the posts you used?
How is it holding up so far? I see the video is 4 years old. I put in fencing including wood fence. I might try that shou sugi just to see what happens.
It's holding up awesome!
love your flag brother
Hey really enjoyed this video, it's the most inspiring fence video I've watched yet, I also like to overkill my builds. I'm getting ready to do a similar build but I'm thinking about doing Shou Sugi Ban for the pickets as well. I'm planning on brushing and sanding then sealing. Any vague guesstimate how many feet of fence a 5 gal of that twp could get me?
Great to hear you enjoyed the video. Five gallons will get you pretty darn far. Depends on how liberally you apply it though. But honestly no I'm not sure about how many feet
Good work 👍🏽
Thanks Ricardo
Im betting you were former military like me! I love to over-engineer everything!
No I was never in the military. Always wanted to join but never pulled the trigger on it. Thank you for your service though! Over engineering is the only way to go.
Thank for sharing the video! Where did you get the SCH40 posts and how much did they cost? I can't find them at the big box stores. I'm the Los Angeles area. Thank you!
I got them from a fence supplier in Trenton, NJ. Suburban fence. Not sure about the LA area though. Definitely not any big box stores
I honestly don't remember the price.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thank you for the info and fast reply! Thank you again for the informative videos, keep up the great work!
@@hikariscissors no problem man. And thanks, will do! Good luck on the build
How concerned should you be with warping/bending of the picket if I take your advice semi dry and then stain so the gaps are not as wide later? Thanks
Obviously you fence in immaculate, I assume not much problem just curious
The bending and warping is more a problem with pine or Douglas fir from my experience. The cedar doesn't seem to Warp anywhere as much.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow sweet, thanks for the post and for the speedy reply! Overkill or not better overkill than under anyday.
Do they make a bracket for the end post. Like my first post is going to go up against the house or do you offset the post and just start the the 2x4 up again the house and offset the first pole?
ITs easier with a 4x4 post.
Thanks for the advice.
Yes they do make end post brackets. Or you can offset the post like you mentioned. I've used both methods
Here is a question. Here in South Texas we have High Heat, Humidity and about 50" rain a year. I could see where the 6ft poles would help with the distortion of the wood. The home builders do not use treated 2x4 for cost reasons. The 15ft return to house makes a interesting problem. Do i put poles at 0ft, 3ft, 6 ft and then 15ft to start the long run or 1ft, 7 and then15?
Where did you get the metal post to 2x4 bracket? I have 2x2 medal posts already in the ground and cant find any brackets to attach the 2x4 runner to. the one you have at least hast flat sides. Thanks Steve
How is that shou sugi ban holding up? And would you use twp1500 again? I'm seeing alot of advice for just tung oil. I'm sure you did alot of research, I'd appreciate any input you have. Thank you and nice Job!
Shou Sugi ban is holding up great. And I've had great luck with TWP 1500. I used to use TWP 100 but can't get it anymore due to the laws. I haven't used tung oil so I couldn't really give my two cents on that. But yeah based on all my research TWP 1500 is an excellent product. And it's lived up to his expectations for me. For flat surfaces like a deck I wouldn't recommend it as much though. But for vertical services no problem
Awesome can't wait to try it thanks again!!
@@frisko6445 no problem! Good luck
How tall are the galvanized post? I have a 5' chain link and i want to covert to 6' privacy fence, I'm basically wondering if I can use my current post, thoughts?
My posts are 9 foot. And stick out of the ground 6 foot. I had heard of guys reusing chain link post for a wood fence so you could definitely give it a go. However a lot of time they are spaced out 10 foot on Center which is too far. I mean you could still do it but you wouldn't be able to use store-bought panels because they are only eight foot
In addition, a lot of time the newer chain link fences don't use a thick wall pipe. I used schedule 40 pipe for this project
Mr. Miyagi just got put to shame!
Ok I went to your links & I need pics of the torch, pine, & wood at bottom of fence uk a diy for dummies please & tia ( to purchase from Amazon & BTW they as in Amazon should sponsor u)
Please share the JIG used to Pre-Drill the Pickets - Cool StandUp Ject Ski - I ride as well ;-)
It was just a pick it with the holes drilled in it where I want them to be. Nothing fancy
Impossible to find 3 1/2" brackets!
All my corner posts are 3 1/2"
Hi. Do I really need to embed the galvanized steel posts in concrete? What if I pounded them down 3 or 4 feet into the soil/clay/limestone? What do you think? It should still hold up better than wooden posts in concrete as the freezing ground will not pop them out, right? Please let me know if you (or anyone) had experience with galvanized steel posts pounded to the ground without concrete/cement.
Yeah if it's good firm soil and you can get them in a few feet I'm sure it will hold up fine. But they might settle over time and the fence contact the ground. Causing rot and an uneven top line on the fence
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Wow, that was a fast response. Thanks! Yeah, I have hard clay/limestone. As for settling, I can always leave a gap at the bottom and/or adjust the panels later. I'm in no rush so maybe I could install posts one summer, and then wait a year to install the actual wooden fence. Either way, good video! I'm still debating between round steel posts like yours, or those square (or U-shaped with ears) PostMaster predrilled posts. Either way, I still need to figure out how to drive them 4 feet into the ground. It seems like I'll need one of these gas powered drivers.
I’ll never use a wood post again. When I discovered the clamps, some thirty years ago, I stopped putting wood in the ground. I’ve never had a rusting problem, either.
Yeah I'll never put wood in the ground either. Unless it's something I only want to last 10 or 15 years. Galvanized posts last wayyyy longer! Certainly not as attractive looking though
Looking for advice and your thoughts.... Building a 8 ft high fence in Florida (10 miles from the coast) using galvanized post like y'all did. Do you think 2 3/8" schedule 40 on 6' centers would be strong enough for our wind loads? Or should i bump up to 3 1/2 Schedule 40? Did you ever consider the OZ brackets? Any thoughts on brackets that clamp the post as opposed to set screws? Lastly... Thought of using a pneumatic post driver on 13' post driving them in the ground a little over 5' with no concrete.... Again thank you so much for and your time!-Travis
Hi Travis Hastings ; I’m out in Southern California, we don’t get hurricanes, but we do get these seasonal Santa Ana winds - 50-60 mph with higher gusts. Wood fence on 8’ 2 3/8” with 6’ spacing is working out well. I like the Simpson branded clamp brackets. Haven’t seen those with set-screws, but I imagine as long as the downward load isn’t heavy there should not be a problem. I set some 20’ 2 3/8” poles in my orchard to support fruiting limbs. I drove them into the ground five feet, no concrete. It’s working well too. I have sandy soils, so it wasn’t hard to do. Hopefully someone from Florida sees this posting and can offer help. Cheers
@@DanielinLaTuna Thank You!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Have done many pressure treat posts in the ground/concrete here in the rainy PNW and always hated the idea of the rain rotting out the posts.... but my wife hates the look of these rounded steel posts. Have you see any black/square steel posts that could be used as an alternative?
What is the exact name of that black paint on the rails? Thank you for the informative film.
It's Rust-Oleum satin black. Brush on. And no problem! Glad you found it helpful
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thank you for the replay. I saw those extra rails on some fences, but not quite sure about the purpose of it. I think they are to prevent rot on the bottom of the pickets. Probably I'll go without them, how it was on the original design. I'm just switching pickets for new ones.
Because you charred it using Shou sugi ban wood preservation, it’s black and therefore you stained it w/ TWP 1500 clear, right?
I see your American Flag. Were you in the Military? I really enjoyed your video, you're highly skilled, so I will assume that you were in the Engineers; if you were in the military-uncle Sam really trained you well in the construction of fence building. I was in the US Army Engineer's however I was in Support, but, wished I had learned how to build things, instead of pushing paperwork.
Unfortunately no I was never in the military. But I'm a huge fanand thank anybody who has or is serving. Thank you for your service Edward! I'm certainly a patriot at heart and I fly the American flag proudly. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and I really appreciate you commenting.
Looking for advice and your thoughts.... Building a 8 ft high fence in Florida (10 miles from the coast) using galvanized post like y'all did. Do you think 2 3/8" schedule 40 on 6' centers would be strong enough for our wind loads? Or should i bump up to 3 1/2 Schedule 40? Did you ever consider the OZ brackets? Any thoughts on brackets that clamp the post as opposed to set screws? Lastly... Thought of using a pneumatic post driver on 13' post driving them in ground a little over 5' with no concrete.... Again thank you so much for your video and your time! - Travis
I'm really not sure how well the 2 3/8" would hold up during a hurricane. 3.5" would be nice, but I'm sure it's very pricey and kind of Overkill. I like the set screw brackets that I used better since they have a portion that allows the two-by-four to rest on top of them instead of just relying on screws only.
Driving the posts in without concrete should suffice for most soils however it's certainly not going to have the pull-out protection of a concreted post.
You can always use 16 foot stringers and start the middle one off with an 8 foot stringer to eliminate each post having end to end stringers thus making it pretty damn strong!
@@liverpoolreds948 Thanks for the Advice👍
Nice