I successfully built a 12-foot double gate using your techniques, and the old Amish method, where you build the gate in place, including hinges on both sides, with 12-foot lumber across, and then cut it in half. Stainless truss rod instead of the diagonal braces, on each side. I added threaded bolt studs to accept a temporary 10-foot SuperStrut bar to brace for hurricane winds.
So much fun to watch your videos. Dan keeps up the interest while imparting some sage knowledge. I loved his first gate video. This one is close to the same and funny to boot.
I just finished doing two cedar gates and I have to say this in place method was so much easier, the gates hung and swung perfectly after. I would suggest when using this latch before installing the verticals on that side grab the latch and make sure it fits the gap. Dummy me, on the first gate I didn't do this only to find the gap was just a little too narrow, so of course I had to take it off the hinges and trim it down. The second gate of course went faster and all, no bonehead moves either.
So I did this today.. It DID NOT take me 20 mins lol.. It took me 5 hours... Of course I had a longer trip to get around the other side of the gate.. But wow you guys are good.. It took me forever.. But I could NOT have done it without your help!!! Do you have a video on double swing gates? Thats my next project...
Your videos are so helpful! Is there a way to install hinges on postmaster so that the gate would swing inward? As it is the gate rails and post aren't flush on the backside with the decorative picket on the post, but I'd still like that picket there
I’m wanting to also build a 10-12ft 2 door gate. Would you recommend to build in place for that as well?? Or what do you recommend? Appreciate the help!
Saw guide for your circ. Don’t need a table saw for pickets. Also do you have any info on compression brace vs tension brace? Also, do you guys use pencils to hold the guide forward on the circ saws in tight cuts, or something else? Sorry for all the pestering questions.
I wish you guys would do a video on the postmaster plus gate build using the new black postmaster plus gate posts. Master helco does not do a good job explaining the install process. Thanks for your alls videos super helpful
I believe that, I’m putting in 4 gates with the post master plus gate posts and wish you guys would do a strength comparison between the regular and these see if it’s worth it. Was worth a shot asking , surprised no videos on them at all.
About to tackle my first gate with your technique. My gate height is 8’ (50” wide) Do you recommend 3 hinges? Also, do I do 2 compression angled rails or 1 if still under 45 degrees?
You got this! 👍🏻 We never recommend more than two hinges. It creates binding issues and headaches. Anything 45 degrees or less (thinking of 0 as straight up and down) only needs 1 compression brace.
Thanks. I got it done! Worked great except I didn’t leave quite enough gap on latch side and needed to trim a little off. I bought an anti-sag kit as well but the package said it was for gates 6’ tall and 48” wide. Since mine is 8’ tall I didn’t use. Any recommendations?
@ 14:51, Mark says a minimum of (3) 5/16 x 1-1/4 carriage bolts are needed, if using carriage bolts on each of the hinges. I see a single carriage bolt being used for each of the 2 hinges. ***What is the 3rd carriage bolt for?***
Question on that "gap filler": @2:30 it looks like you are using the edge of the flange on the post as a straightedge to draw your cut line. However, once they are installed, it looks like (@3:08) there's in fact about a half inch or so hanging past the steel flange. What's up with that?
Eagle eye there, Ted! You're actually looking at two different posts. The hinge side of the gate we drew the line off of the post flange and it is indeed flush. The post on the latch side was actually already built from another video, and the gap fillers in that post are wider so they could accommodate the width of one picket. (Because it's a demo fence that side of the gate is only 1-picket wide.) Anyway, sharp eye!
Great video, thanks for the info. Which size stainless screws do you use for attaching the rails to the postmaster posts? Which screws would you recommend for redwood picket? Thank you
Thank you! We use 1 5/8 long stainless steel screws for attaching to the postmaster. Never used red wood but would imagine you’d be just fine to use stainless steel screws.
You would need to use hot-dipped galvanized screws meeting ASTM A 153/A specification. Might be easier to just go with stainless steel. I'd stay away from coated screws.
So you HAVE to remove the gate by removing the hinge pins so you can cut the rails to the correct gap on both the hinge and latch sides as there is no way to do the hinge side if it's left in place, right?
You can trim the rails using a sawzall. We only removed the gate pins to trim the bottom 1". If we hadn't needed to do that we could have left the gate hinged and sped up the process.
Needed this video, I just put post master posts in the ground and master halco is terrible for instructions. Question also, I used 8’ posts and dug 24” deep. So now my posts are as tall as my pickets and top rail will be just under top of pickets.. is that an issue? Or just a cosmetic thing
It’s not an issue just a cosmetic thing. If you cover the post with a picket on the back side you no one will be the wiser. However, this is why their number one seller is the 7’6”
If you have a gate with postmasters and the hinge side of the gate cannot be connected to an adjacent post do you have any recommendations on how to reinforce it so it doesnt bend when opening?
Those snacks reminded me of Something that will never ever change..Fencers ALWAYS will stop at the corner store for snacks before heading to job. It’s one of those unwritten rules
Looks good. Except, I want to be able to lock it from the back side, with the pickets facing the front. (side gate of my house) For security reasons. So, your method would not work in my situation. But, I can figure it our from here.
Call me stupid but couldn't you leave the nailer on the side the gate close away and use it as a stopper for the gate ?? So the gate has more place to distribute the force of strong wind ??
I don't think I'm following because what I'm picturing doesn't look great. We want the gate to close flush. And when this method is done right things turn out pretty sturdy as-is.
@@SWiFence thank you very much! I been using adjust a gate gate frames but still getting lots of sag in my double gates just trying to better my way of building them
Why not any forethought about the handle height and the latch placement? If I’m the customer, I would not like the latch below the handle. It would look to me like my contractor is just “winging it.” Just saying...otherwise, keep up the good work!
Thanks! 👍🏻 The handle placement for this was more about what you have to do if you don't have a nailer in the back to receive the lag bolt--for DIY folks that are fine with that look. We certainly do it differently for folks that want it otherwise. 👍🏻
@@SWiFence My fence faced the same issue. Rotating the postmaster 180 degrees wasn't an option. I wanted my cleanest side of the fence facing the street. My solution was to rip a 2x4 down to fill the middle gap of the postmaster. My posts were postmaster pluses, so that was about 2" wide. I used a high quality construction adhesive to fix my filler. Then I mechanically fixed it in with a screwed picket over the top of the postmaster. Then I was able to fasten the hinges in with the 2" carriage bolts through the picket and into the 2" material that is now in the middle of the postmaster. Using a few bolts to fasten the filler to the postmaster would have been better, but it is a bear to drill through the postmasters. It took me more effort than anticipated to drill through the postmaster to fasten the latch to the postmaster on the other side. The end result has been a really solid gate. I do wish I had put some threadlocker on the bolts that connected the latch. It won't be the worst thing ever if I have to pull the picket covering them and tighten the connection. If that becomes necessary, I will definitely use threadlocker.
rail spacing 26 and 27 center to center what the heck is with all these videos showing gate build without proper framing . no-one uses doweled rails with uprights . imagine if the door in your house looked like this. . point of order your cut down pickets should have looked like one big picket not 2 pickets. what's with the Home Depot hardware
If this was on the front of the property mounting the hinges and latch on the opposite side would be ideal with the gate swinging in. Even though Post Master recommends using a double post on the hinge side of the gate I really don't think it's it necessary.
I successfully built a 12-foot double gate using your techniques, and the old Amish method, where you build the gate in place, including hinges on both sides, with 12-foot lumber across, and then cut it in half. Stainless truss rod instead of the diagonal braces, on each side. I added threaded bolt studs to accept a temporary 10-foot SuperStrut bar to brace for hurricane winds.
So much fun to watch your videos. Dan keeps up the interest while imparting some sage knowledge. I loved his first gate video. This one is close to the same and funny to boot.
Thanks!
You certainly make it look easy.
There's SO many extra JUICY tips and tricks added into this one gate build video, it's ridiculous.
I just finished doing two cedar gates and I have to say this in place method was so much easier, the gates hung and swung perfectly after. I would suggest when using this latch before installing the verticals on that side grab the latch and make sure it fits the gap. Dummy me, on the first gate I didn't do this only to find the gap was just a little too narrow, so of course I had to take it off the hinges and trim it down. The second gate of course went faster and all, no bonehead moves either.
So I did this today.. It DID NOT take me 20 mins lol.. It took me 5 hours... Of course I had a longer trip to get around the other side of the gate.. But wow you guys are good.. It took me forever.. But I could NOT have done it without your help!!!
Do you have a video on double swing gates? Thats my next project...
We don't but we should add it to the list.
Your videos are so helpful! Is there a way to install hinges on postmaster so that the gate would swing inward? As it is the gate rails and post aren't flush on the backside with the decorative picket on the post, but I'd still like that picket there
Would a 50' length of Postmaster posts fence wobble/sway in the wind? Any video showing that? Need an answer asap...
I’m wanting to also build a 10-12ft 2 door gate. Would you recommend to build in place for that as well?? Or what do you recommend? Appreciate the help!
Saw guide for your circ.
Don’t need a table saw for pickets.
Also do you have any info on compression brace vs tension brace?
Also, do you guys use pencils to hold the guide forward on the circ saws in tight cuts, or something else?
Sorry for all the pestering questions.
I wish you guys would do a video on the postmaster plus gate build using the new black postmaster plus gate posts. Master helco does not do a good job explaining the install process. Thanks for your alls videos super helpful
Believe it or not we just don't use the gate posts. The regular ones work fine for us.
I believe that, I’m putting in 4 gates with the post master plus gate posts and wish you guys would do a strength comparison between the regular and these see if it’s worth it.
Was worth a shot asking , surprised no videos on them at all.
About to tackle my first gate with your technique. My gate height is 8’ (50” wide) Do you recommend 3 hinges? Also, do I do 2 compression angled rails or 1 if still under 45 degrees?
You got this! 👍🏻
We never recommend more than two hinges. It creates binding issues and headaches.
Anything 45 degrees or less (thinking of 0 as straight up and down) only needs 1 compression brace.
Thanks. I got it done! Worked great except I didn’t leave quite enough gap on latch side and needed to trim a little off. I bought an anti-sag kit as well but the package said it was for gates 6’ tall and 48” wide. Since mine is 8’ tall I didn’t use. Any recommendations?
Z frame gate built in place, exactly how I also build them. Works every time.
Yes also in Holland this is a pretty common habit.... Cool video btw guys!
Thanks! 😃
is one post strong enough for a 5ft gate(6ft tall fence)?
Maybe a stupid question but can you build both a compression and tension brace on the same gate to make it stronger or will they over ride each other?
Yes, you can and we do. They'd run opposite of each other and make everything that much stronger.
Great job. I love using the GForce hinge really simple to use.
well done, very good details
Many thanks!
@ 14:51, Mark says a minimum of (3) 5/16 x 1-1/4 carriage bolts are needed, if using carriage bolts on each of the hinges. I see a single carriage bolt being used for each of the 2 hinges.
***What is the 3rd carriage bolt for?***
I would say that is called rough as guts you do have skills mate but you should have done it on your own that's the one man job all day
Great work and teaching I mean! Would like to know what's the drill tool used?
I think it's just a DeWalt impact driver.
@@SWiFence Thanks I figured out that after watching the video closely and ordered one 😊
Question on that "gap filler": @2:30 it looks like you are using the edge of the flange on the post as a straightedge to draw your cut line. However, once they are installed, it looks like (@3:08) there's in fact about a half inch or so hanging past the steel flange. What's up with that?
Eagle eye there, Ted! You're actually looking at two different posts. The hinge side of the gate we drew the line off of the post flange and it is indeed flush. The post on the latch side was actually already built from another video, and the gap fillers in that post are wider so they could accommodate the width of one picket. (Because it's a demo fence that side of the gate is only 1-picket wide.)
Anyway, sharp eye!
Great video, thanks for the info. Which size stainless screws do you use for attaching the rails to the postmaster posts? Which screws would you recommend for redwood picket? Thank you
Thank you! We use 1 5/8 long stainless steel screws for attaching to the postmaster. Never used red wood but would imagine you’d be just fine to use stainless steel screws.
I am looking to make a gate with horizontal panels using metal post. Can you do a video showing how to build one
C'mon now, did you even look? 😏😆 ruclips.net/video/lucaRaDp0C0/видео.html
New to your channel, thxs for link
Swi do you recommend building in place for first time DIY???
I don't know why not. Take your time and don't rush it.
@@SWiFence thanks! You guys have some great content!
Great video Gentlemen. What kind of hinges do you use on gates if doing a wooden privacy using 2 3/8 steel post? Thanks in advance
Typically if we are using a metal round post we will use a bulldog hinge. 👍🏻
Great job nice fixtures
Why is the support under 45 deg. cut? why not run it all the way without the center board Thank you
Awesome gate..what size screws yall use.. thanks for sharing
3” on the frame work 👍🏻
Stainless steel nails -- would galvanized screws solve the same bleeding problem? Or coated deck screws?
You would need to use hot-dipped galvanized screws meeting ASTM A 153/A specification. Might be easier to just go with stainless steel. I'd stay away from coated screws.
Inch 78 R ring shrink nails… what gun are you guys using or suggest
We like this one: bit.ly/swimagnum
So you HAVE to remove the gate by removing the hinge pins so you can cut the rails to the correct gap on both the hinge and latch sides as there is no way to do the hinge side if it's left in place, right?
You can trim the rails using a sawzall. We only removed the gate pins to trim the bottom 1". If we hadn't needed to do that we could have left the gate hinged and sped up the process.
T&T Fencing likes to do lap joints with an X brace do you guy do that on some of your gates
This is basically how we build all of our cedar gates.
What’s the story/plan on the old ford service truck in the back??
All 2x4 's flat internal brace , twenty 10 inch 1/4inch structural screws.
You can add weight until the hinges break.
I'm three sheets... post master post. *drinks shot*.
I love how everyone thinks I'm drinking in my videos! 🤣🤣
Definitely not a negative thing! I was saying if I played the drinking game Id be 3 sheets easy. Lol
Needed this video, I just put post master posts in the ground and master halco is terrible for instructions. Question also, I used 8’ posts and dug 24” deep. So now my posts are as tall as my pickets and top rail will be just under top of pickets.. is that an issue? Or just a cosmetic thing
It’s not an issue just a cosmetic thing. If you cover the post with a picket on the back side you no one will be the wiser. However, this is why their number one seller is the 7’6”
@@SWiFence yeah I realized that after I set them lol, rookie mistake 🤣, forgot that the top rails suppose to sit 8” lower
If you have a gate with postmasters and the hinge side of the gate cannot be connected to an adjacent post do you have any recommendations on how to reinforce it so it doesnt bend when opening?
Double up a postmaster and either both them together or weld them
Those snacks reminded me of Something that will never ever change..Fencers ALWAYS will stop at the corner store for snacks before heading to job. It’s one of those unwritten rules
Priorities! 😆
.Excellent, and you're Pro's... but you wouldn't get me dangerclose downrange of that nailer !
How would you brace for a shadow box gate. As far as tension bracing
What do you do when, you want a gate but it can’t open out. It has to open in? And you can’t get post master posts? 😢.
I see you guys like Dewalt. I've pretty much the same setup.
Could have only dog eared the outsides of the riped pickets it would have blended togerher looking like a single picket
This is something I just learned 👍
@@SWiFence i learned it moments ago when i seen your two small pickets the idea came just then.
Where are you getting 1 7/8" stainless ring shank nails from for a nailer? ty
Um, seriously? 😶 we get them from the SWI store. Where are YOU getting them from? 😨😁 bit.ly/1-7-8ringshank
them Olson Brothers are really Really REALLY ....Good at building them fences ! .. eh hem .
Aw shucks!
Is it just me or does he sound like Billy Bob Thornton. Great job Btw.
It’s a lot faster to build on the ground and it’s the right way to get the boards tighter. I’ve done them hanging before just wasted time.
To each his own I guess.
Love these guys. Are some of them half drunk? Maybe. But this is a no nonsense explanation of how to hang a perfect gate on an imperfect span.
Nobody is drunk or half drunk. 🤣
Looks good. Except, I want to be able to lock it from the back side, with the pickets facing the front. (side gate of my house) For security reasons. So, your method would not work in my situation. But, I can figure it our from here.
Yep--not hard, just tweak a few things. 👍🏻
Call me stupid but couldn't you leave the nailer on the side the gate close away and use it as a stopper for the gate ?? So the gate has more place to distribute the force of strong wind ??
I don't think I'm following because what I'm picturing doesn't look great. We want the gate to close flush. And when this method is done right things turn out pretty sturdy as-is.
Did I miss you cutting the gate from the fence or did you not show it
Taking the screws out? It went by fast. ruclips.net/video/g9XIsuiERJs/видео.html
Mark, try not to cut the dog ear on the cut off to make it look like one single picket
Great tip!
Can you post a video on how you do double gates
We've actually been talking about that and have it on the list. 👍🏻
@@SWiFence thank you very much! I been using adjust a gate gate frames but still getting lots of sag in my double gates just trying to better my way of building them
Theses guys are too funny!
We have fun!
I didn't see any test... 😢
Demonstration. I should've said demonstration. You just watched it. 🙂
How about saw horses... they work really well ...😅
Always trim each gate board 3/4 inch b4 installing, never need to remove after.
Do you mean the pickets? People with dogs may require the pickets to end as close to the ground as possible.
I like it but why not ust use a gate kit. Cheaper and seems easier. But this seems more sturdy.
Sturdier, better built, and fits the dimensions of your opening exactly. 👍🏻
Animal crackers and juice pouches. Lol.
There is one very important item missing from that lunch.... A Lunchables!
So true...
What kind of nail gun is that?
bit.ly/swimagnum
If that was for my house I’d cut pickets so it blended better
Agreed. So do we. That wasn't the main point of the video and we wanted to keep moving--but you're not wrong.
Larry Curly and Moe could not have done it better
Tell us how you really feel. 🙄🤣
Personally I think Larry is a pretty handy guy.
Why not any forethought about the handle height and the latch placement? If I’m the customer, I would not like the latch below the handle. It would look to me like my contractor is just “winging it.” Just saying...otherwise, keep up the good work!
Thanks! 👍🏻 The handle placement for this was more about what you have to do if you don't have a nailer in the back to receive the lag bolt--for DIY folks that are fine with that look. We certainly do it differently for folks that want it otherwise. 👍🏻
0:38 😂 animal crackers and a juice box. 🧃 I love this video already.
How do you set the hinges if the gate needs to swing inward?
Just set them to the inside if you’re using a postmaster post you can also Rotate it 180° so it’s easier for you to use your hinges on the inside.
@@SWiFence My fence faced the same issue. Rotating the postmaster 180 degrees wasn't an option. I wanted my cleanest side of the fence facing the street. My solution was to rip a 2x4 down to fill the middle gap of the postmaster. My posts were postmaster pluses, so that was about 2" wide. I used a high quality construction adhesive to fix my filler. Then I mechanically fixed it in with a screwed picket over the top of the postmaster. Then I was able to fasten the hinges in with the 2" carriage bolts through the picket and into the 2" material that is now in the middle of the postmaster. Using a few bolts to fasten the filler to the postmaster would have been better, but it is a bear to drill through the postmasters. It took me more effort than anticipated to drill through the postmaster to fasten the latch to the postmaster on the other side.
The end result has been a really solid gate. I do wish I had put some threadlocker on the bolts that connected the latch. It won't be the worst thing ever if I have to pull the picket covering them and tighten the connection. If that becomes necessary, I will definitely use threadlocker.
Cool buddy thanks, can I guess that you had a liquid lunch?
Haha! No, actually. I should tone down my personality because that's actually a common misconception... but no. 🙂
Legend
It's all an act, just like Dean Martin.
👌
There’s no need to do all that extra work like removing the whole gate
Well that saved my but!
Great!
Where 2 smalls look ok 3 look better, 4 look best and 5...ok no I've never done 5.
Agreed. I always measure the overall width and rip all the pickets to match, i.e. a 36 inch gate would use seven 5 1/7" pickets.
@@andrewc9790 See you next Thursday. Hopefully you're finished by then.
3 guys to build a gate, a good wood worker would build a complete frame with ship lap joints to avoid warping...
Remember we are focused on the process not production. In the field we have a much more streamlined setup.
rail spacing 26 and 27 center to center what the heck is with all these videos showing gate build without proper framing . no-one uses doweled rails with uprights . imagine if the door in your house looked like this. . point of order your cut down pickets should have looked like one big picket not 2 pickets. what's with the Home Depot hardware
I LUH these metal posts! Homeowners, 99% of fence FAILS is using wooden posts. I know. I have livestock. Enough said.
Boys why u cut on ground when there's a desk right there lol
🤣
dan looks drunk
I wasn't I can promise you.
@@SWiFence Well who started the fire then
🤣
Total dorks
What a little ray of sunshine you are!
I know you are.
If this was on the front of the property mounting the hinges and latch on the opposite side would be ideal with the gate swinging in. Even though Post Master recommends using a double post on the hinge side of the gate I really don't think it's it necessary.
We haven't found it necessary either.