Life Long Wooden Fence Posts! NOT Your Typical Build!
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2022
- This fence post video is different from what you normally see. I wanted a fence post that lasts for decades, looks good and is different from the norm. This is an different DIY way to replace your wooden fence posts. This is part 1 of a 3 part wooden fence replacement.
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This is one of the best wooden fencing videos I've ever seen. A couple of things I like to do are to put a few inches of gravel at the bottom of the post so if water works its way down the post it can sink below the wood. The second thing I like to do on the poured concrete is to slope it away from the post so water will never sit on the poured concrete next to the wooden post. Blessings to folks like yourself that enlighten the rest of us!
Thanks 👍
yes gravel at the bottom and if you are in clay soil concrete is not necessary just take a 2 x 4 and pack that soil as you back fill. Fence does not need to stop a truck.
I agree! Great video.
The worse I’ve seen never follow this idea it’s just a guy that don’t know
@@Grggeorge the post gets wet from rain and dew and absorbs water, but can't dry itself fast enough because the bottom is tarred up. Not sure how these guys think the added gravel will absorb water past the tar coating and drain...
Instead of all that extra work, why not just stick a simpson post base into the concrete to elevate the post out of ground contact.
I typically overkill on my projects. But you take overkill to a whole new level. Great job. The fence will last longer than the house.
The concrete will last longer than the house. The wood will need to be replaced several times. Sometimes overkill is not a good thing.
Well since you’ve already said it, I’ll simply says: bravo
if the house is built with bulsa wood . LMAO
@@bobbyadamo152 that’s funny. Still an ugly friken fence I thought it was gonna be a wo4k of art wood proj3ct. My wife says tar destroyers the organic material of soil. Nothing can grow…..dude you better watch out some KARENGONNA C@NCEL YOUR POST BUILDING APOCALYPTIC F3NCE POSTS…..
@@firecloud77if you plane the concrete appropriately then Jesus will come as a carpenter and be like well done good and faithful servant
If it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing. It does my heart good to see such craftsmanship and attention to detail. Very well done.
Thank you so much, glad you liked it and thanks for watching
Yes indeed - this looks like something I would do. You have to do this work yourself, because no one will care enough
I was so engrossed in the video that you didn’t need to say “hang with me “! So well done and narrated. Tipping my hat.
Well thank you and glad you liked it! Thank you for watching.
I built a 4 foot fence back in 1982 using treated 4 x 4 posts, 2 x 4 stringers, and 5/4 decking boards . When I set the posts, I just carefully tamped the dirt back around the posts. No concrete needed. Very sturdy over 40 years later and when I needed to replace 2 posts a few years ago they were easy to remove.
How often snow or rain in the area you put the fence and 4x4 post?????
That's the way I did it, too, in the PNW, I just hate concreted-in posts, they usually rot right at the base, then you're screwing around trying to dig up all the old concrete. My old fence had 2 and 3 feet of concrete surrounding the post, could not believe the amount, OMG
The right answer -thank you
@@edwinmiranda8174 We have average rainfall and snow here in the Midwest US.
In 1982 those were creosote posts. Those are no longer available. The salt packed stuff these days are worthless.
I can't believe how incredibly thorough and patient you are about your work.. to the average Joe this is a fence..to the construction inclined individual this is art...!!
Thank you very much. My OCD plays a big part in all these renovations. Much appreciated. Thanks for watching.
I totally agree. My boss tries to get on me about taking longer when I do my type of work, but he knows that because of my OCD, my kind of work will last for a lot longer than what the normal person would do.
@@OakleysDIYHomeRenovation101 Keep up the great work and let your OCD be your superpower.
Old school, is usually more detailed. The water hose method is important for removal
I disagree. Its an ugly common fence. Not a fancy woodworker, finish carpenters fence. He made it for the posts to withstand a hurricane in Florida coast. Tar poisons the earth around the post . Not environmentally sound. A building inspector would stop his work in the west coast got that. Tar is toxic chemical petroleum based, all outlawed 20 yrs ago by EPA. Pressure treated wood ok’d by epa.
Outstanding! My grandad built a fence in '74 that is still solid and has outlived him by two decades so far. I take great pride in his workmanship, something your progeny will likely do of yours.
Thank you. Wow that's great that the fence lasted that long. Thanks for watching
@@OakleysDIYHomeRenovation101😅
I nominate you for the official title of Bunker Design Engineer!
I know this is a day late and dollar short but thought some of your viewers might be interested. You are right about the plastic sleeves, they don't really look nice and I am not sure it will completely keep the treated wood from soaking up rain water. I like the tar coating idea, I think it is good. But I will add to it. I have seen another RUclipsr (farmer) replacing fencing post and he used an old farmers trick. Mixed a 50/50 solution of burnt motor oil (free) and diesel fuel as the intial coating and then applied tar over that. The mixture also gives the wood a nice stained look. He filled a 5 gal bucket with the solution and stood the bottoms of the 4x4 post in the bucket and let them sit in the solution overnight. So the posts actually soaked up the solution by wicking. On the posts that I have done, I also added the mix solution to the top of the post. Yes you can protect the post tops with covers or cut them at and angle so the water would run off. Even at that I would still cover the post tops with the solution. I do like the over engineering. It will probably be there long after you are moved or gone. Good Luck
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Our original wooden fence lasted 22 years without all these extra measures. That fence will outlive the house for sure! Maybe outlive the owner too! Excellent work! I myself wouldn't do all that.
Neither would I. I don't have a fence-building fetish - just want a barrier between "them" and me.
How would you like to be the next homeowner who thinks fences are not for her. So she decides to whip out the old come-along and pull out all these posts ? 🤣
As a serious diy,er myself I am totally impressed with the quality of your work and the fact you work alone. There’s nothing more satisfying than doing home projects at a high level. It’s the details that separate an average job from an excellent one. It takes time, knowledge and patience. Nice work.
Wow, thank you! Glad you liked it and thanks for watching
This has got to be the best planned fence in Texas. I love it when people like yourself show so much love in what they do
As a Texan, I take aFence to that. Best planned fences here in Texas are planned for hurricanes and high winds. No matter how big the footing, they can snap. A well planned fence is one you can take out of the ground if needed. This is way overkill and over built. Not to mention all that he did and yet NO PEA gravel on the bottom. Drainage goes a long way to having a long lasting post. He also painted the bottom. Now any moisture that seeps into the bottom(from splits in the post) is retained in the post.
ANd that monstrosity of a top on those footings. Notice he doesn't show the trouble he surely had with putting on the sacrificial kick boards. Those things go as close to the ground and when you got concrete eve a bit above the ground you have to notch the shit out of them, making the weak.
And also his neighbor is going to have to deal with the crap on their side too.
Best thing to do is get some roofing flashing and bend it around the post in a U shape. Tack it and paint over it. If you don't want to do all that you can buy premade post guards.
Last finish the tops below ground level and make a crown from post down. I can guarantee those "flat" tops are sunk in just a bit to the center.
He did state that he put about 2" of leftover gravel in the bottom of each post hole before setting posts for first measurement. On 1 hole, it was still too low, so he added more gravel & tamped it all down...
@@kaythegardener timestamps...
Hi thanks for the video sweet, Gary here from the UK,
I have an idea for you see what you think, When I do fencing I do the holes then I drop in a preeminent cut piece of 4 inch plastic soil pipe level with the ground, then concrete around the outside of the pipe, the next day just slide the post into the pipe and start fencing. I never had a problem or replaced a post
Just want to say thank you for sharing jobs like these, I appreciate the no bs do it right!
You are welcome. Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Your work is second to none may God continue to bless you and your family outstanding work.
Just pulled out 35+yo 4x4 pool fence posts. SE Pennsylvania. They were 2 feet deep, in clay soil. No concrete... No ROT. The post above ground was rotted wherever there were nail penetrations. If you wanna save yourself Alot of work, dig the hole, place the post, and tamp(firmly) the soil back around the post. And yes, they are strong enough.
Agree with you and just set half a dozen 4x4 PT fence posts in clay with tamped gravel, no concrete. BUT today's PT doesn't have arsenic and those 35yo posts did, so I'm giving my fence maybe 10-15 years before the posts are rotted. But then at least I won't be pulling 400lb concrete slugs!
Excellent work, Good to see a proper thorough job with Dedication and attention to detail. :)
I thought that you were not supposed to tar the bottom end grain of the post so that accumulated water can make its way out via gravity. By taring the whole thing you make a water proof "bucket" that moisture can't escape out of except to wick back upwards. Also, did you seal the tops of the posts to keep rain and bird poop out?
You have a point here. It appears decay is only promoted when water AND air are available to the decay bacteria so tarring the post is needed from 2" above ground surface to about 14" below ground.
I favour putting a bed of free-draining aggregate immediately under the post to allow any water percolating between post and soil to dissipate.
If you put dry wood in wet concrete the wood will swell as it absorbs the water out of the concrete making it Crack the concrete. Then water will follow the cracks and rot out the wood. Another way is to put the post in a heavy garage bag so that the concrete doesn't touch the post.
I loved watching this video. To the viewers that are criticizing the effort that went into this fence build, you simply don’t understand this man. He takes great pleasure in doing things a certain way. And for him, there is no other way. He will feel great every time he looks at this fence for years and years to come. He would feel awful looking at that same fence if he “took shortcuts”.
Having said that, I do want to point out what I believe is a very significant mathematical error. If the post hole is supposed to be “3.5 times the size of the post” that doesn’t mean 3.5 X 3.5”. It means 3.5 X the AREA of the post in square inches. The AREA of the post is 12.25 square inches and 3.5 X 12.25 is 42.875. A post hole with a diameter of 7.38” would have been adequate. That means smaller auger, less work, less concrete, less rebar, less work to remove in 30 years, etc, etc.
Still loved the video though!
Glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for watching. You are right I enjoy looking at it every day.
You are my spirit animal.
Not sure if there's a fence builder that is 1/32 off.
Everytime i think you cant be more acurate you make a unnecessary jig just to get a little more accurate.
There are foundations to homes with less rebar.
You did a great job and do things the way I do. My momma taught me to do everything as if I am doing it for God and at the end of every day I lay my head down in peace. I do absolutely everything as good as I can. Some days what I can do on Tuesday may not be what I can do on Thursday. I am 67 and have been building, remodeling, owning multiple businesses designing, fabricating and installing everything from Canvas and upholstery on boats, planes, automobiles, residential/commercial/hospitality/ custom window treatments to Commercial and Residential Awnings which required getting my Commercial Contractors License and the list goes on and on. I do my best. I do things 3 times if that’s what it takes to get it right. I greatly appreciate seeing someone have something called integrity and who counts the cost to do something right. Something sadly lacking if one reads all the comments of your doing way too much….No you’re not. Do it right.
Thank you very much, glad you liked the content. Glad to see someone else who likes to do it right. Thanks for watching.
Handling concrete without a helper is risky. You definitely need to take a vacation after this project. Great job !!!
Your a man after my own heart. I myself love doing things right the first time. I dont like doing a crappy job. You can guarantee your fence wont ever come down. Nice touch with the tar.
Thank you, I am just a little OCD about things. Thanks for watching.
I have pulled a lot of posts in my days and found quite a variety of prevention that never worked. The only thing I'd say about your set up is not to cover the entire bottom of the post with tar. Rather, two inches above the concrete to two inches below the concrete only, leaving the bottom open to allow moisture to escape into the ground.
Great detail and very good vid.
Yeah, maybe. I use a 2'' gravel footing and oil diesel mix on the post. most peeps don't know how to pound the dirt in to make the post tight.
Very true on both!
You may have OCD. But You have my respect sir. Carry on with your quality workmanship. You are a post warrior.
Nice job, you just got yourself a new subscriber.
I redid my fence about two years back, l also did tar in the hole, and the top two inches of each post , along with the ends of each 2x4.
FWIW: I apply a coat of linseed oil to the entire post: Paint & then apply the asphalt coat. The linseed oil will add additional protect for both below & above ground as the Oil helps keep water\moisture out of the post if the paint or asphalt is compromised
Does the paint apply okay to the oiled post?
@@lukerobeson9957 Yes, Its dry to the touch the next day, I usually apply during a sunny day.
This is an amazing project! Perfection to the next level and you have shown a whole lot to learn, thank you so much for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing your RUclips about Life Long Wooden Fence Posts! NOT Your Typical Build!❤👌👌👌
No it isn't. Thanks for watching and glad you liked it
This guy should be the head of all DOT projects
He says, "It's very easy," as he is trying to catch his breath. Lol... I don't believe in overkill if you can afford it.. good work 👍
Thank you!!! You remind me of my dad
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Nice video. One thing that I noticed. I learned that we shouldn't tar the bottom part of the post and to leave as is. The reason is that, If we seal the bottom the tar makes a "cup" around the post. Meaning that water that seeps in from the top part of the post gets trapped inside without it able to escape. If we don't sealed the bottom, water is in theory able to escape out. I see that you have a lot of clay where it collects a lot of water so I'm not sure if this idea is good or not.
It would be interesting to see if you made an update video from this project.
Yes you are correct. If he wants it to last longer, the only option is something like a Simpson metal post bracket. It'll keep the timber from wicking moisture from the ground and also be opened to the air to dry naturally. If you insist on using timber post of course, otherwise a steel post is best.
thank you very much for thinking and doing this project out loud.. well done..
Thank you for watching and glad you liked it.
In my younger years I built a stockade fence in my moms back yard. I used 4x6 posts, set in concrete. The fence was subject to bit of wind and snow plowing in winter (also thawing of large snow piles), I built in 1996, and it's still straight today. I simply set them in concrete. I did build up a rectangular apron 2 inches above grade around each post base. I didn't treat the wood, other than the PT from lumber mill. I integrated a 9 ft swinging fence that had a stacked truss made of PT 2x4, and liquid nails. I put one 2x4 diagonal in tension from top of hinge post to base of neighbor. Doubt I'd have it in me to do it again today, but I was able to drive cars in and out as needed. When closed, the gate vanished into fencing. Now I get to do it all again at my new house. lol.
An alternate to the tar: roll-on bed-liner which can be painted later. You need dry wood and fully encapsulate the post with the liner to deter termites and carpenter bees. I used to use creosote when I was a kid but think the EPA took that off the market.
Yup. Creosote is no longer an option. But when I was a kid I used to help my father build wood fences and we used cedar posts whose bases were soaked overnight in creosote. They still rotted off in ten years. I remember being really ticked off because replacing them was a huge pain. I don't know the answer.
didn't think of the bed liner. Thanks for watching.
50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel fuel is what a lot of people are using. That will penetrate deeper than tar.
Make sure your posts are DRY so the oil/diesel mix will soak in. Overnight soak recommended. Coat bottom of post to 6" above ground
I'm over the top, too..... but I'd love to see the finished project and how you worked around all the concrete...... well done, sir 👍
Great, glad you enjoyed the project. I am currently working on a A-Z fence build video, hopefully out in the next month. Thanks for watching.
Excellent sir. I have not seen a fence post being constructed with this meticulous detailed and strong build. 👍👍
The fence I redid last summer I liquid rubbered 2 1/2 feet of the bottom even though I only placed 2 feet into the ground. I also used treated landscape timbers as the posts. Then painted the posts so no black rubber would show that's above ground. Also place them 4 feet instead of 8 feet so not to add to much pressure on the posts due to wind and time.
Great job, thanks for the idea and taking the time to make the video!
You are quite welcome, glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Holy shit sir!! Next time my crew moans about me being too picky (thorough), I'm gonna make then watch this. Not sure how, you managed to see that one thru. Your patience is admirable. Great job!
PS You should pretend to do a small project, for example new mall box or a birdhouse, but make it seem drawn out throughout the next five years. You could have all the seasons changing in the background while you explain one tedious thing after another. I know I would enjoy it. 😂
LOL glad you liked it. Thanks for watching. My OCD takes over too much!
Happy DIY 👍
Hey DIY dude. Incredible build. I own a farm and I live to fence…LOL. Those posts are set so incredibly solid they’ll last forever. Great build. A little OCD…but we are all in a world where everyone else is okay with mediocre…we are not. Thanks
thank you, yes many do like mediocre but I do not. Thanks for watching.
Tip for digging in clay. It’s easy when the clay is wet. While that’s not convenient when the weather is dry, it’s fairly easy to remove a little at the surface and fill the hole with water. Maybe a few times depending on the depth of excavation.
Another tip for digging in clay... make a 1.5 to 2 inch hole with a bulb ($10) drill bit, then use the two handle post hole digger. It is much easier to collapse the dirt around a hollow core than around a solid core.
How about a clay blade on a hammer drill.
@@AMC-eq3jr Those tools are often larger than the hole, and they still don't get the dirt out of the hole.
@@mikegrok Thanks.
Great job, and I'm glad you mentioned you're in Texas. Why? Because if you were way, way, up North, your posts wouldn't last 2 years, as the frost would push up the square concrete base off the ground. I am also impressed with the detailed calculations and extra, extra work you've put into this, which leads me to suspect that you are retired and you are looking for things to do. Overall rating, I give you an A+
He drilled his posts 3 feet down...that's well below the frost line even in Alaska...
Ive replaced fences a few times . Always worked to get old concrete out but sometimes would have helped if i used that method of of jacking them out . We get hurricanes in my neighborhood so i use concrete to set posts. About 50 lbs each does the trick 10 foot posts . 6 foot tall fence. Nice trick for keeping the posts from getting chewed up from line trimmer. Thanks for posting the vid. Lots of good construction tips
Very professional job for a long last sturdy fence. I learned a few things. Thanks.
Thank you, glad you learned something. Thanks for watching.
Im all for over engineering but the pocket holes for the concrete forms had my arms in the air! Good job :)
I have only built fences on my property, but every fence post I have ever had to replace was encased in concrete and had rotted out at the ground level. I like the tar sealing the part of the post in contact with the concrete. Concrete holds the moisture against the wood accelerating the rot. Proper home construction limits water intrusion but makes sure that if water does get somewhere you don't want it, it can drain away from the structure. I think the same should go for wood in the ground. I place the rocks I pulled out of the hole, 24 - 30 inches deep, in the bottom of the hole and around the post as I back fill. The water drains away and the wood can dry out after being wet. I bevel the top of the post at 45°and paint to prevent wicking from pulling water in through the end grains, it lasts longer than water seal.
Gravel is a better option than concrete as it always water to escape. Gravel can lock posts in the ground pretty good.
Post caps work better to keep water from wicking in the top...
in terms of over engineering i give you full marks sir. well done. will outlast us all
Good Job....That's a lot of work! It's good to overkill, but only when/where it should be!
😯😳 WOW!!!!!!! Now that's the BABYBOOMERS Process. Hard work and no BS. Just get it done no matter what. Why? because I'm doing it myself. You never see that anymore
Excellence excellence. I appreciate your attention to detail and your commitment to precision in your project. Subscribed!!
Thank you so much, and thank you for the subscription. Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
The best way to explain this leaving ect. Good teacher
Lots of good ideas: I really like the coating on the bottom of the posts for sure-that is a must where I live...will use that one! Otherwise....WOW! You got lots of work into every one of those Posts! I think I will just replace mine every 15-20 years and be happy with that and forget the Life Long Posts!
Now you can build forms to pour concrete between all of the post boxes! 😜 Great Job!
TIP: To ensure a good finish on all the tops of the footings, the first pour should be about 1" short of the top of the form. Then pour all the other posts to the same level and it won't matter if the concrete starts to set up. The last concrete will easily bond to the still "wet" concrete below. When all the footings are filled ( to 1" below forms ) , you can then do your final mix and finish all the footings within a short time ( less than an hour ) so that gives you a chance to provide a nice finish to all the post footings. Also sloping the top of the concrete away from the post base lets water drain away. 🙂
You don't want an interface like you describe, it's stronger to do it all in one pour.
@@thereplacementfordisplacement If the concrete is all cast within 2 hours there is no difference in strength.
It will all bind together.
That’s how high rise buildings are made, except their concrete pours are SEVEN DAYS apart
High rise concrete works because of rebar.
@@plumbobmillionaire6246 Concrete binds to itself and other concrete quite effectively. Pouring a base layer followed by a second topcoat in less than two hours provides the same if not better adhesion than does DRY concrete block ( or brick ) with the mortar that binds the masonry units together - all without the use of reinforcing bars.
@@robertchoutka3191 Not only that, but that top inch is not about strength, it's purely aesthetic/decorative. Doesn't matter as long as it bonds to the previous pour. Good advice
I admire your meticulous work.. I did the same on one of my rentals
Thank you. Glad to hear you went the trouble on your project. Thanks for watching.
We replaced our back grape sake fence with a slightly raised concrete footing, similar to yours. We used a bracket for the uprights with the 4x4s raised slightly to allow for drying, and ease of replacement (2 through bolts at the base). The concrete has a very slight crown to allow water to quickly drain off.
This is the way I plan on doing it when I buy a house and eventually have to replace or build a fence. Wood will always rot, no matter how you try to prevent it. It is wise to just make it easy to replace.
I remember my dad used to set posts just like this when he built our backyard fence. Looks great.
Thank you, thank you for watching
I have never seen any fence been built as complex and thorough as this one, it will probably last longer than the house!!
Thank you it has been awhile since I have seen somebody take pride in the work they were doing. Now I can only hope you would do others the same way you did yours. From what I have seen in the video I believe you would.
Your welcome and glad you liked it. While I don't do others work yes I would strive to do it with this kind of detail but of course it would cost more than someone who just slaps it together to get paid. Thanks for watching.
@@OakleysDIYHomeRenovation101 You are correct but it goes with this old saying "You get what you paid for.".
I really enjoyed watching this video. You did a fantastic job!
Great to hear. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video Great work !
Thanks a lot! Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
Great job!
Very good video. Thank you
Holy moly that's a lot of yakking about a fairly simple job.
dang! dont forget to initial it!! lol nice work .
A real cliff-hanger of a video! Thanks, learned a lot.
Glad you liked it. I have the whole fence build in the outdoor projects playlist. Thanks for watching
thank u so much for detailed info . ty ty ty !
You are very welcome. glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.
Yup It always amazes me the confidence that DIYers have, almost alarming to a true tradesman. Not all but most. Go out and make a living on your genious techniqes.
That’s one hell of a fence 💪🏼
Thank you, thanks for watching
Very impressive, Sir!
In Australia we use a "Wallaby Jack" to remove posts. Very similar approach to what you did.
Wow good job
Thank you! that was hilarious!!!
Great job !!
Thank you, glad you liked it, thanks for watchinhg.
Love the detail and thought you put into this. With all the expense, why didn't you use 4x6 posts? I see the old fence just had two 2x4s between posts. For durability, I'd use three 2x6s. The old fence also had no stain & sealer on it which would have greatly extended the life of the fence. What I've also wondered about is instead of using cement, why not just use round river rock in the post holes? That would allow excellent drainage and any expansion of the soil would just cause the rock to settle down to fill any gaps. Since there would be no soil in contact with the wood posts, rotting should not be an issue.
Wow! Nice Job. Respect...🏆🏆🎖🎖
I loved this video, you said things l have only heard my dad say, god bless you both 👍
Great, glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
MR. YOU DO THE PROFESSIAL JOB. I REALLY LIKE YOUR METHOD . The important purpose is you so enjoy your work, but I will build the jig to make the cement poles so I won't be worried about the rotten pole forever and also no termit problem
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video. Have fun making your concrete posts. Thanks for watching.
"Hang with me!" And I did. And it was really worth it! 👍
It looks amazing! I wonder if you ever consider the metal posts since you poured concrete the whole base ?
As long as yer happy Bro, that's what matters. 👍☺
Glad you coated the new posts. I am finding that the new CCA wood treatment is good for 15 years tops. Nice work.
thanks for watching.
Why didn't you cut the sod first then drill the holes?
That is cool my friend.
👍👍🇺🇸👍👍
Beautiful
Thank you
Mike Holmes don't even get this carried away lol. This will still be standing after tornado lol.
A Perfectionist, I like that. Excellent job with extra work for sure and materials as well. Will last longer than any neighbors fence by years. Do the job right the first time and one will not have to do it again plus no wind worry as well. A fence is easy to repair as long as the post stay put especially the corners. I like to use 4 X 6 treated post for the corners. A good quality treated 4x4 post is a must (yellowwood) as cheap ones will cure out crooked with time.
thank you, glad you liked the video and thanks for watching.
Excellent job!!! I'd like to see the fence after it's 'hung'. Trying to figure out how the fence interacts with and is located on or around the cements bases.
I suspect he'll backfill the trench with all that dirt he previously removed. But I'd like to see it, as well.
Lol awesome! Built like a tank!
Yes, these won't be leaning anytime soon like the old ones. Glad you liked it, thanks for watching.
Some ppl would probably say this will be me when I’m older. I can see it a little. Let’s give a hand to this guy and his age and be able to do this and do it to the extreme. You can see a little bit of arthritis getting him on the way up and down but he’s not letting it stop him and to every one out there that’s what you do when arthritis is trying to turn you into stone and live your life by the saying -“Don’t ever sit down-you might never get back up” This is major overkill and that’s fine it’s his,there’s a ton of people who have tried to beat the system but it never works lol. I’ve been predicting just about everything this dude was going to add as he went. This will be solid and nice but probably add 1-2 yrs or longer depending on many factors. There’s a reason it eventually goes back to the old easy way because you don’t gain much for all your effort-nature wins. Those pound in metal posts I’m going to try on one side of my yard and see how long they last. There’s a hand held machine that pounds them in 3-4 feet and they’re heavy duty-easy to replace if something went wrong and you don’t use cement. Just so ppl know i live in Florida and we have sandy soil-we on,y set them down in 2 feet and most ppl only cement the end posts or gate posts. I cement about every 4-5 posts. Both fences last the same thru nature and storms and we get major storms. In a crazy storm there might be one panel that has issue and that’s just if the storm is wild. So it doesn’t take what you think it does. Sometimes the stiffer something is the more the wind pushes it. That’s why palm trees don’t fall they flex and big oak trees don’t flex and so they fall. A little flexing actually helps. Just think of your body-you stiffen up someone can push you over or you have some give to you and you will absorb them pushing on you. This guy must be bored AF because I’m typing this as he talks and i can’t believe how little he’s actually done and all the unnecessary work but I’m all for him trying all this with his time ,money and back so I’ll watch the whole thing because he deserves it for all this effort-his wife must be shaking her head inside the house and probably heard 17 versions of this project and how he’s going to do it and then changed it and runs it by her and she has to pretend to be into it. lol. Anyway I’m curious and he’s now put a lot of pressure on himself to have this be perfect. It will barely last longer but don’t tell him. Let the country boy science think it beat the system.
Fantastic!!!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
My ADD saves me from my OCD 😂. OCC PERFECT 😁
If you built pianos they would be the best instruments ever made. Great RUclips!
Nice work and I'll try it 😊
thank you for watching
I've used heavy mil trash bag to wrap before concrete. Works great.
Thank you for sharing this. I need to replace some gate posts at my front gate and this gives me a good idea for how to do it. One is wobbly and might be able to be re-used but am not certain. The other snapped off just above the ground level when it got hit by high winds in a hurricane. We didn't do the tar stuff on any of our posts and a lot of the wooden fence posts rotted from the ground up-- despite being treated lumber. I guess they weren't ground rated or just wore out over time.
I'm very familiar with the rebar ties. We used them to secure similar mesh fencing to what you used here to metal posts when putting up fences. Got the hook/twisting tool around somewhere.
I wonder if you could solder/weld stuff together instead of using the ties.
I really like that you numbered all of the posts.
I've never used pocket screws but I've seen a lot of videos where they were on the inside instead of outside. I like that you explained why its better to do it on the outside.
Ooh, I like the jig for drilling straight. Do you have a link to that?
I really appreciate that you took your time to do things meticulously. It may take longer in some regards, but you'll have longer lasting fence as a result. The attention to detail may seem tedious to some, but it is worth it.
I know there is a type of concrete that you pour in the hole and then just add water after. Probably not as stable, but I wonder if that could have worked in this case.
here is a link for the drill guide. Drill Guide: amzn.to/45zCoaQ If you know how to weld yes you could weld the rebar. I don't know how to weld, if I did I would have done that instead. Glad you liked the video and gave you ideas on how to fix your fence. Thanks for watching. There is a playlist on the rest of the fence build if you want to watch.
If someone worked with him and got paid by the hour they would make a lot of money !😆