That was the most short, sweet and amazingly still very clear and detailed rundown of troubleshooting a 7.3 that Ive yet to see. And ive seen a whole lot of them. Way to go dude, this is a "every owner or individual who works on a 7.3 should be required to watch this first "video.
I use your video every time I need to troubleshoot my 2000 t444e! Today your comment about checking the pre-filter (upstream from the fuel filter) led me to find a piece of something stuck in mine. Pulled it out and my bus runs without smoke in the exhaust!!! You saved my hundreds in diagnostics!
Covered a lot of good points, common problems (man, they must not have maintained yours at all!) I have a '96 7.3 with 263k..bought new and haven't had moßt of the problems you recount. I am an ASE cert. Diesel Bus master tech (retired x3) and have had some of those issues while maintaining a fleet of 27 busses, for 18 yrs. Still one helluva lot less problems than a B series Cummins, or God forbid, ANYTHING GMC has come out that burbs DIESEL!!
This is by far the best video working on any 7.3 from ford 250 350 450 and excursions.. the view and angle u shot it being on a bus is the very best. The 7.3 is all the way across and same exact problems but minor fixes are better then engine replacements on gas cars. U rock
My motor is slightly different from yours, your advice helped me a lot, my Engine light is now off after I was able to locate and change out the ICP Sensor. I Prayed to the God in Heaven about this one. At International, the cost of the ICP sensor was probably almost three hundred dollars or close to two hundred dollars and was under $30 on eBay or Amazon, which made me question the quality and durability of my less expensive part, its been a few years and the part has held up.
You have a big advantage over us pickup owners. You can tip that engine hood forward and get to the engine easily. For pickups, everything is buried under all sorts of lines.
Thanks for the video. Learned a lot. I have the same bus. Warning lights, buzzers, everything but a gong goes off. Gages show low oil pressure and overheating. Plenty of oil, water level is fine and not too hot. I love my bus. It is a '99 with only 112K miles! Unfortunately, I had a diesel mechanic who was supposed to be an expert on Powerstroke engines. After screwing me around for a couple of months, told me that it was ready to pick up. Got it home, parked it for three days. Went out and it wouldn't start. Called him... he skipped town. Again, unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined, but there is enough videos and info online that I believe I can do most anything I have to . Thanks again for the video. Poppy
Thank you, from 2020. This is so helpful to me, I recently found a nice little oil puddle under my engine, so i'm here now lol, this is going to be so helpful going forward, thank you so much!
Great vid! I used your vid to do preventative maintenance before my road trip from Phoenix to KY. Changed oil, ICP, CPS, IPR, Glow plug solenoid, coolant filter all good parts but I wanted no failures on the road and extra known good parts just in case. Great job thumbs up!!!!
Great Video. Hopefully this will help with my BUS being sluggish when starting up a hill from a stop. Took it for a spin today and it wouldn't go over 10 MPH up the hill.
You definitely want to refill the HPOP reservoir. It is common to the engine oil, but don't count on the oil being replenished. There is almost no cirulation from the engine block. I opened my 2000 superduty reservoir and after 100,000 miles of regular oil/filter changes, the oil in the reservoir was like mud. It should be pumped out and refilled when you change your engine oil. Fortunately I discovered this before my injectors were ruined. Their is nothing about this in the Ford truck manual or even in a Chilton repair manual.
JB Marker uh. Your low pressure oil pump pumps oil to the reservoir where the hpop uses the oil and is flowed through the injectors and back down. It has a huge part of oil circulation....
Tim Masincupp Tim my name is Ken I am having a serious problem with my 4700 I I I I have a international 2000 engine 7.3 T444E Roback flatbedIt takes off really great and as it gets 30 mph starts to slow down and lose compression or power inter-national dealer tells me I need A Nother motor but the problem just started happening out of nowhere I am in need of some serious advice!!
All 7.3's to my knowledge have two batteries. My 95 has two batteries in the engine compartment but the 2003 has one hidden down on the rail frame/rail. There's a decal in the engine compartment I found after I did a little cleaning
A other no start issue is a shorted fuel heater in the fuel bowl. It blows the 30 amp fuse that also powers other fuel system components... An easy indicator is absence of a wait to start light when trying to start....
I have the same bus motor- I had the fuel pump go bad twice, and the serpentine belt tensioner broke (easy fix) and the glow plugs were bad...but that only matters in cold weather. With theses big things it's better to fix in the driveway than on the highway...
Thank you so much for making this video does not a lot of videos concerning this motor in absolutely nailed everything from a newbie at like me new to these type of Motors to know what you go and check for first without dealing with slime balls and greedy people wanting money for things they don't even now
I may be soon to set foot in the Diesel world with a T444E in a bus/camper conversion.. This was great information! Much appreciated! If it happens I will be buying one of each of those parts and the tools you described, that I don't already have.
mororhead, true that the glowplugs will ignite starting fluid and blow up your engine, possibly... but in warm weather the 7.3 will stat and run with a bad relay, although it takes a minute for sure. I had thick oil in the 7.3 bus I bought, and the guy sold it to me cheap because it had a hard time starting. I changed my oil to a synthetic 5-40 and not it starts almost immediately. just my experience...
the newer style pistons don't like either and if you have to use either most either now is such low % of either just give it a sniff after you have pulled the relay or fuse for the glowplugs so they aren't hot but unless its below 50 degree's a 7.3 will fire up with out them it won't like it and may take a min to light all the holes but it will light but on these newer diesels either has been known to crack pistons in most cases because people using too much but still not worth it plus block heat is another option
Will, One thing you should do, remove that New Gray Colored CPS Cam Position Sensor and put the original Black CPS back in the bus. The old Black CPS was made with a USA Made Magnetic Hall Sensor and is the best units ever made. If it has the small circle in the center with the exposed magnetic sensor you are in luck. The new Sensors have a cheap offset Asian made Hall Sensor that throws the timing off and causes high EGT temps, and poor performance eating fuel. The CPS goes in with a single 10MM Bolt and you torque it at 18 ft. lbs. The CPS is one of the most important parts of your 7.3L engine, the old black CPS will make the engine run on all 8 cylinders.n The new gray CPS is a nightmare, besides the cheap Hall Sensor, it's offset and not centered. So when the flywheel spins it counts the largest tooth and the smallest tooth on the flywheel. A bad CPS will give the ECM a wrong count and screw-up the entire delivery system, Both the new gray Ford and the International Dark Blue CPS have the same faulty offset hall sensor and are wasting tens of thousands of gallons of fuel each day. I have an old Black CPS in my truck and I get 20-21 MPG on HWY and 17 City with a heavy foot. Here is a diagram to show you how the 7.3L PSD Works starting at the top left with the CPS (CAMP) Sensor. tinyurl.com/7-3L-Wiring-Diagram .
Where the oil filter located on this truck. I looked all over engine and thought it was the water oversteer at first until I wiped it down and saw it said coolant filter on it. My 2001 which is identical to this has been nothing but a nightmare and my tow costs have been killing me. Had to change the fuel pump 3 times before I got one that finally worked and haven’t had issues with it since.
You mention you got engine codes, but did you also get the "Check Engine" light, or was the only indication of a problem derived from the scan tool (and the problems running and starting).?
Is there a way of contacting you with a quick question about the 444e? Mine is dying when it's warmed up and put into gear. Replaced or serviced: ICP, IPR, CPS, H-pop, fuel pump. Probably stuff I'm forgetting. I'm getting code 42 from the scanguageD I bought that you suggested. Cleaned all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel filter, and inspected fuel tank, fuel pressure regulator, screen, bowl, and added a supplemental fuel pressure at the tank. It starts right up, just won't run under load once it warms up. Great Vid!
I used to have a 95 7.3, well still do an selling it now, bought a 7.3 idi that’s better for running more bio fuels. These 7.3s are a true pain in the ass to fix sometimes, but being that the valve covers are no buried between the truck where the passenger side one only comes off at a certain angle. For the 3/4ton trucks ford should’ve stuck w the 7.3 idi. Basically if you can afford it, change the factory valve cover gaskets, IPR, ICP, & CPS/ with a spare in the glovebox. The IPR moves in & out about a couple hundred times a decent to send the right amount of oil to the injectors. This is a part you want to get that’s genuine motorcraft, other sensors like the ICP just get after market, get motorcraft for the CPS as well. If it’s taken care of that is about the only real issues these things have. Just get ready to pull out the wallet for 1K in injectors, & $700 oil pump, & 1-$200 computer tho. I just found a bus w that engine in it that pas parked in a field, I’m 17 so hopefully I can get it pretty cheap.🤞
Just bought a 2000 Bluebird School bus... picked it up in Mississippi yesterday and drove it 500 miles. Everything seemed to be going well till about 300 miles into the trip. Stopped at a rest stop and when started the bus up again got oil/water warning lights. Oil check was good water was almost empty but no obvious leaks on the ground. Let it cool and put 4 gals of water in and drove it the rest of the way. Got home and checked the water... very low level. No water in the oil but noticed a leak on top of the motor towards the back ... explains why the floor area around the front of the cab was slippery, kind of oily. Any ideas where to start?
I have the same bus. Pretty bad oil leak can't really see where it's coming from. Near the filter on the driver side front of the motor. It's shooting out like a pulse. Any ideas before I take this thing apart.
Will Stone also there's a metal plate inside the bus in the middle of the floor between the door and the driver's seat that you can remove to get additional access to the engine bay - just in case you didn't know
I was experiencing the same issues. But....my bus would crank and crank and wouldn't start. I removed the rear heater, and in that process, cut the supply lines to shorten and hide them. Apparently I lost more coolant than I thought and i had NO clue that there is a low coolant sensor that prevents the motor from starting. I replaced the cam sensor and still had no luck. Once I filled the coolant to the "full" level on the container, the damn thing fired right up. I wasn't throwing any codes either. I talked to an old-timer that is a retired bus mechanic. He told me to add coolant. It's between "add" and "full" and that beast lives again. Much cheaper than replacing every sensor...
wgaca JR thanks for your story. Yes if I were to remake the video i would have included: 'make sure all fluid levels are good including coolant, transmission, oil, steering, brake, rear diff, etc.' but i guess i assumed most people would start there. Also if you do follow my advice in the video you would not replace every sensor you would start by reading your error codes which would indicate you should check coolant (in your case). Congratulations on getting it running again though that's always a satisfying feeling!
I have 2000 international 4700 the oil is being pulled from the engine into the fuel tank. Have not been able to find the problem any information will helpful thanks
also to check icp you can start the engine with it running disconnect the connector. the engine will give a quick hesatation and idle normal. but besure to disconnect the battery befor doing any work under the hood
So i have a 96 int 3800 bus with t444e and i cannot find the separator. have you ever seen them in strange places? ive traced down the framerail and i dont see it anywhere where i see fuel lines. i have a service panel inside the bus, could it be under there?
Next weeks video will cover the under valve cover harness, IDM, and HPOP....(which is what you unscrewed the IPR out of)... a weak HPOP can throw ICP codes and light up your CEL but usually only under a heavy load or going up a hill, also can cause hard starts..... lol
@@ttamn92 I've got a swamps high voltage high frequency idm and have been pretty happy with it. Haven't had a bad injector yet but religiously run archoil oil additive and fuel additive for anti stiction.
What could be the causes of mixture of water and diesel,cause I have one of the engine that I haven't figured out what causes the mixture. If you have any idea let me know.
Dude I need your help I bought a school bus and someone ripped all the wiring out of it and now it wont start. Can I replace the computer so the bus will start? So many safety stops in a bus. I would pay for your advise. Its a 2001 International 444e engine
I'm very sorry for the delayed reply - what an awful situation. Was this a thief, or the previous owner or something? Really depends what you mean by 'all the wiring' :/ You're gonna be best off visiting an International dealer or finding a local diesel shop. You can call and see who your local school district uses. If they have their own shop/mechanic, try to get put in touch 'just to ask a quick question'. To replace the computer you're gonna need some specifics that the dealer will be able to look up for you, or you might be able to find based on the VIN. But, yeah I'd seek IRL help asap if you haven't already - a bit difficult to help with that particular situation via interwebs
2000 4700 t444e here, jump in and start it first thing, the idle starts to climb gradually and stays at high idle until I tap the accelerator pedal. It calms down after that. Any ideas?
I've been looking for a 72 passenger bus myself. I'm partial to the DT466, but haven't totally ruled out the T444E. as an option - the high production numbers should make parts and boneyard scavenge readily available, but tell me, is it enough engine for comfortable highway cruising? What's the "top" speed of your bus (without beating it to death)?
We weigh 22,000 pounds and have additional drag from our roof deck and solar panels and can cruise at 61mph no problem. Mountain highways were troublesome until we replaced the water pump and cleaned the radiator in a commercial degreaser last month
what did you use for a water pump? I do have the issue in hot weather of mine running a bit warm... I had a bad fan clutch mine is not the nice horton like yours.. its an old-style viscous.. but now that works.. however it still likes to run about 212 or so on hot days at 65 on the freeway with my Air-conditioner on and heater valves closed... I really despise the OH split radiator.. both of my busses have the rad design.. when you say you cleaned your rad in degreaser.. the inside of it or just the outside fins?
Great information here! Will I am looking for a diesel p/u 1996 or earlier 12v Cummins or a 7.3 Power Stroke. In your opinion which is the most trouble free / durable / ease in working on in stock configuration/? Thanks
they made 12v up to 98. 24v are not bad motors if you put a lift pump before it destroys your injector pump. all diesels are expensive to maintain you can count on close to $100 every servicing. if you use quality oil and filters. they are all pretty much easy to work on if you buy a high mileage truck you can expect to replace all the o rings/ gaskets especiially if it has a little age on it. just my .02
Go with a 7.3 Ford or a 12v cummings. Durable and easy to work with. Of course maintanance is key on these engines. Expect to shell out $100 or a little bit more on each servicing. Lucas fuel additive goes a long way too, put in regularly. I have had my 7.3 for about 4 yrs now, and haven't had an issue with it. Always service it on time, replace all filters, and take it easy on her, she will last. 300k on the clock, and she takes me anywhere, anytime. No smoke or rattling noises.
hayden ingram and add fuel additives with lubrication properties because of the low sulphur diesel it doesn't provided enough luberication for the lift and injector pumps on the Cummins or any diesel as far as that goes thats the reason 2003 dodge Cummins injector pumps had a high failure rate because of lack of lubrication to the pumps
they had high failure rates due to low fuel pressure. because it has electric lift pump on the side of engine and after so much vibration they fail then the ip fails.
hayden ingram they put the electric fuel pump in the tank also and they still had issues with them even with the mechanical lift pump anyways got to love government take something simple and make it complicated
Thanks for the Video. I have a 7.3 with a Crank no start. Found the fuel bowl empty. I checked the Volts on the fuel pump and theirs 12v. Do you have any suggestions on what it could be ?
Could be a clog in the fuel line, a couple different sensors, or the fuel pump... just because it has power doesn't mean it's working. I would start by looking at the error code(s)
Will Stone hi. Im back. Just to let you know. I Replaced the IPR, ICP and the fuel pump. My truck did turned On. But after 5 minutes it turned off. My question is did that happened to the 7.3 engine after replacing all the sensors ?
I’ve been through all that, rebuilt the HPOP and replaced the IPR and several other things and checked everything else you mentioned, and more, and my truck still refuses to start. Any ideas? It’s really frustrating. The last time it ran was July and it did great on a trip, but a few days after the trip, and ever since then, it refuses to start.
I guess being so interested in that Bus Motor, I didn't really focus on your Nose, uh, I just wanted to know the common problems with The Engine. Good Video, very informative.
I HAVE A 2000 INTERNATIONAL 4600 DT466E, Truck wouldn't start due to fuel, Got the truck started and stay running but I'm not getting full power when I try to drive it, Do have any idea what could be wrong?
Great video. Im from holland. and i have the same bus. only from the year 1996. I have problems white the engine. Bud where can you find the cable for the scangauge. i cant find it. i have looking the hole day for it. i hope some 1 can help me. Sorry my english is not so verry good.
Cool vid, much appreciated. I have a 96 powerstroke and I'm having some issues of her dying here and there but starting right back up. The last time it was hard to restart so I guess I need to start figuring this out before I get stranded. Any suggestions where to start considering these syptoms?
On these things, it’s way easier to just change all the sensors/IPR, ICP, CPS, Mechaical fuel pump delete, valve cover harness update to the single plug instead of the factory defective dual plug design.
i just bought a 2001 international 4700 bucket truck with the t444e and it was about a 260mile trip 5hrs at 55-63mph, the truck runs and idles great but about 10-15times on the way back home it dropped from 2500rpms to 0 or 2000 rpm both 0 and 1500-2000 several times each, the truck did hesitate or jerk in a slowing down motion then regained rpm very quickly every time except for the time it did it for about 15-20seconds.....any ideas?? starts right up overtime and idles no problem...only did it in 6th gear going around 55-60 2000-2500rpms
look at the injector/glowplug harness where it goes over the valve cover. It is rubbing through and causing the injectors to short out. super common on those
Replace your cps. Cam position sensor. Front of engine, just above the harmonic dampener on the right side (passenger side). Should be one 10mm bolt and wiggle or pry it out with a screwdriver. Be sure to buy an OEM part from ford or international because the ones that napa and other chain aftermarket stores sell are trash and will fail right away. If you don't fix it, it'll keep getting worse intermittently especially in hot or wet weather. And eventually it won't work at all. When you get the part, buy two and keep a spare in the cab.
I have a different type of Code Reader from yours. The Code that comes up on my Code Reader is FMI=4 Voltage Below Normal, Or shorted to Low Source. Can you tell me what that means? Thank you.
ICP sensor needs to be replaced or the signal line has an open or short. Try replacing the ICP. Also, if you google "t444e fmi 4 error code voltage below normal" you'll see lot's of great info. GL!
hello, so I had a blown head gasket...I had a mechanic change out the t444e motor now new motor will not crank over...just cranks...any ideas? mechanic saying ecu needs programming or bad ecu?
I'm curious how this worked out. Just going off the comments my interpretation was that your mechanic was not up to the task, for whatever reason. It's step by step starting with fuel supply. Electric fuel pump putting fuel into the fuel filter housing?
does your oil pressure gauge "hunt" while on the road? I just picked up a 2000 Bluebird with a T444E... drove it 1050 miles home.. runs beautiful.. my fan clutch is bad so i ran about 210 temperature on the hot days but thats an easy fix.. it has the typical intermittent tap-tap at idle sometimes.. (LL #8 injector needed maybe...).... the one thing i notice us drivng down the road on the highway.. my oil pressure gauge hunts from say 48 down to 40 then back up again... repeats about every 10 seconds... just wondered if yours does the same thing.. what does your dash oil pressure gauge read after your engine hot and you are on the highway? I dont have a normal OBD-II port for a scanner on mine.. I have a scangauge 2 that i use on my cars but what did you use for a pinout to the connector to pull the codes? my bus has a round connector instead of the normal style, otherwise mine looks identical under the hood.. its a 190HP variant of the T444E, in a little 6 window, the bus has better pickup than my 7 row DT-360 bus has.
should me ntion the scangauge you use is a VR model... i ended up using the international software servicemaxx and running a J1708 adapter... one thing to note is that the fuel Pressure regulator nut on the older ones only ran at 47 PSI pressure .. its actually the spring in the regulator... that was replaced due to a TSB for late 99s.. (I noticed yours has the notched FPR nut which means it was updated to the 72 PSI).. others watching its a worthwhile upgrade.. quieted my engine right down form alot of the cackle.. my oil pressure still hunts, however is in range according to the books so I let it do its thing... the EBPV is another thing that will cost stalling or sometimes no-starts... many of the cold-weather busses had this on it as a war up device... it causes issues by sticking sometimes and blocking up the exhaust...
I got a 1984 s 1800 series and I just bought a 1998 diesel pusher will this engine fit into my Diesel Pusher? My Diesel Pusher has a t444 e? but I'm unsure of what my other bus has in it
One very important addition to this "things to look for video" that was well made I'd like to say. Also the UVC injector and glow plug harnesses. Aka under the valve cover.
hi will, excelent information , my name is miguel , have f350 7.3 model 2000 only 2 weeks ago not start, but i have a cuestion , my truck not start even smell gasoline or start fluid, i thinks the piston ring, are bad i am ready to pull out and repair do you have some trick to comfim about the rings? thanks
Hello, can you please write me a list what exactly I need everything? I report from Germany and unfortunately you got very little to spare part or help. Our school bus 1999 goes out during the trip and spring very badly again Filter we have already changed. At first we thought it was due to the defective diesel line and the engine draws air. We do not know. Can you tell us where to get help? Best regards Steffen
I would start by purchasing a code reader on Amazon called the 'scangauge d' the d stands for diesel version the normal one won't work. then use it to find out what errors the engine computer is reporting and fix them
what is the coolant capacity of these buses? I have a international 3400 w the t444e, its got a bad water pump that leaks, about to replace it, cant find the coolant capacity specs anywhere!?
Question, can you use an OBD2 reader to read the codes? I know you would need an adapter for the J1939 (or whatever plug it is), but I don't know if it would read international codes, as most of the scanners I see don't tell you truck models like International, Freightliner, etc. Does it just do a half job? Or will it read all the codes correctly? Thanks for this video, it seems like it's very helpful. I basically JUST got my 1st diesel ever, so I'm still learning all of this stuff, but it sounds like this is a great video. I even saved it to my computer just in case I couldn't find it on RUclips. In fact, thats how im here now, I couldnt remember the exact title, but I had saved the video and thus was able to get the exact title and get here, lol.
Will Stone yeah I ment that sorry I was beyond tired at that point and I did but than it still messed up I also checked the wire harness and I’m still getting the code
abrahan espinoza depends on the maintenance and if it's modified. If it's stock or mild tune and well taken care of it's a half a million mile engine. Pretty much guarantee 250k
Mine is a 2000 F350 7.3L, crewcab 4x4 dually....has 380,000 on original engine. Auto trans made it to 360,000. Had a straight pipe and Superchip tuner on it it's whole life. Still runs great!
Fantastically. Had her for 7 years now, only relatively major repair was replacing the water pump a few years back. Otherwise just a couple brake lines and rotors etc. Highway mountain passes are a little tough in the summer, other than that, no complaints.
@@WillStone Awesome. I am considering buying 2004 IC CE with the 444e. 10,000-14,000 GVWR. Will be doing a lot of CO,AZ, NM, NV driving. Hope this motor pushes us over all the mountains with grace as long as we take car of her. :)
Can you please show how and where the computer hook up is !!! I would be so thankful !!! Great video by the way !! Just got my bus and I'm wanting to get all info I can get and learn !!!
sounds like you already have a code reader, which codes exactly? i got a lot of stuff on amazon/ebay but the listings may have changed since then. any ford dealership should have most, and autozone sometimes has stuff (a lot of parts are shared with the regular ford 7.3L PSD so just have them look up one of those)
@@joetow100 I don't remember paying quite this much but it's prolly worth it. I use it permanently installed to view temp, rpm, mph, etc www.amazon.com/dp/B00VX2NP4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M8dxEbPJ8F6WB
Will, mind sharing the exact model of your diagnostic/code reader? I'm about to get a bus with the same engine and want the same reader you have. Thanks for the incredibly helpful video!
Andrew Motter glad it was helpful - sure, it's the 'Scangauge D' the d stands for diesel model. I would read you the numbers off the back but I permanently attached it to inside my dash because most of the oem gauges don't work. Pretty sure they just make an odbII (regular) and a combo Diesel (j1939 & j1708) version. Ours uses the j1708 pinout.
I have a 7.3 L powerstroke 444e 2000 International School Bus. This question stumps well known machanics I have to leave it plugged in 24/7 it will not start we use starter fluid than sound like it is going to blow a rod. Show me how smart you are please!
afaik that light goes off when the glow plugs get to temp. ours sometimes randomly turns on while driving and the beeping starts too... i think it's failing wiring somewhere, a bad connection, or a faulty sensor. if anyone knows, please share
dunno about international setups but ford trucks the tank selector leaks air in the fuel system a pickup in the fuel tank rotts off the fuel bowl screen gets clogged and the valve cover gaskets go bad these engines wont crank with a weak set of batterys either it actually needs a certain rpm before it will fire the injectors
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
That was the most short, sweet and amazingly still very clear and detailed rundown of troubleshooting a 7.3 that Ive yet to see. And ive seen a whole lot of them. Way to go dude, this is a "every owner or individual who works on a 7.3 should be required to watch this first "video.
I use your video every time I need to troubleshoot my 2000 t444e! Today your comment about checking the pre-filter (upstream from the fuel filter) led me to find a piece of something stuck in mine. Pulled it out and my bus runs without smoke in the exhaust!!! You saved my hundreds in diagnostics!
Covered a lot of good points, common problems (man, they must not have maintained yours at all!) I have a '96 7.3 with 263k..bought new and haven't had moßt of the problems you recount. I am an ASE cert. Diesel Bus master tech (retired x3) and have had some of those issues while maintaining a fleet of 27 busses, for 18 yrs. Still one helluva lot less problems than a B series Cummins, or God forbid, ANYTHING GMC has come out that burbs DIESEL!!
So what is the very most dependable diesel buses out there?
I seriously just want to thank you... im self employed and doing a lot of self taught. this video helped me out big time... thanks again bud cheers
This is the most time effective, To the point(s) video I've seen in a long while. Good show!!
This is by far the best video working on any 7.3 from ford 250 350 450 and excursions.. the view and angle u shot it being on a bus is the very best. The 7.3 is all the way across and same exact problems but minor fixes are better then engine replacements on gas cars. U rock
thedavidibarra papi 7.3 and 5.9 are kings among the diesels and if only Ford F Series had as much room to work with as that bus
The e350s are a bugger because everything is so damn tight!
My motor is slightly different from yours, your advice helped me a lot, my Engine light is now off after I was able to locate and change out the ICP Sensor. I Prayed to the God in Heaven about
this one. At International, the cost of the ICP sensor was probably almost three hundred dollars or close to two hundred dollars and was under $30 on eBay or Amazon, which made me question the quality and durability of my less expensive part, its been a few years and the part has held up.
thanks a ton man. been trying to figure out where that stupid glow plug relay for days... by far most informative video online. thanks again!
thats a really handy tool and work bench. I'm takin all my tools out to the curb
You have a big advantage over us pickup owners. You can tip that engine hood forward and get to the engine easily. For pickups, everything is buried under all sorts of lines.
You should try working on that 7.3 in an Econoline van!
Try working on the engine in a shuttle bus!
Thanks for the video. Learned a lot. I have the same bus. Warning lights, buzzers, everything but a gong goes off. Gages show low oil pressure and overheating. Plenty of oil, water level is fine and not too hot. I love my bus. It is a '99 with only 112K miles! Unfortunately, I had a diesel mechanic who was supposed to be an expert on Powerstroke engines. After screwing me around for a couple of months, told me that it was ready to pick up. Got it home, parked it for three days. Went out and it wouldn't start. Called him... he skipped town. Again, unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined, but there is enough videos and info online that I believe I can do most anything I have to .
Thanks again for the video.
Poppy
Awesome video! Thanks for putting this together and posting it online!
Thank you, from 2020. This is so helpful to me, I recently found a nice little oil puddle under my engine, so i'm here now lol, this is going to be so helpful going forward, thank you so much!
Great vid! I used your vid to do preventative maintenance before my road trip from
Phoenix to KY. Changed oil, ICP, CPS, IPR, Glow plug solenoid, coolant filter all good parts but I wanted no failures on the road and extra known good parts just in case. Great job thumbs up!!!!
Sounds like a AAA bus sale 😉
This was an incredibly informative video man. Like mandatory reading type stuff. Bravo!
Great Video. Hopefully this will help with my BUS being sluggish when starting up a hill from a stop. Took it for a spin today and it wouldn't go over 10 MPH up the hill.
Check fuel filter first, then lift pump
You definitely want to refill the HPOP reservoir. It is common to the engine oil, but don't count on the oil being replenished. There is almost no cirulation from the engine block. I opened my 2000 superduty reservoir and after 100,000 miles of regular oil/filter changes, the oil in the reservoir was like mud. It should be pumped out and refilled when you change your engine oil. Fortunately I discovered this before my injectors were ruined. Their is nothing about this in the Ford truck manual or even in a Chilton repair manual.
Even if you don’t believe it, do it as it’s cheap insurance.
JB Marker uh. Your low pressure oil pump pumps oil to the reservoir where the hpop uses the oil and is flowed through the injectors and back down. It has a huge part of oil circulation....
Wow you did great. I am about to get one of this buses. Learned a lot and very helpful. Thanks for the vid and all info
Great video! Lots of great information. Thanks! OK, breathe...
BRAVO!!!! Very well done and no time wasted on "I'm so cool". smart mechanics are few.
Tim Masincupp
Tim my name is Ken I am having a serious problem with my 4700 I I I I have a international 2000 engine 7.3 T444E Roback flatbedIt takes off really great and as it gets 30 mph starts to slow down and lose compression or power inter-national dealer tells me I need A Nother motor but the problem just started happening out of nowhere
I am in need of some serious advice!!
If anyone else have had this problem with is 7.3 international motor losing power after take off please reply
@@kenwilliams5281 what ever happened with your problem Ken?
Maybe it’s the transmission
Do you do caffeine introveniously
Just got the exact same bus at a auction... and I see you have 2 batteries mine only had one! Great video
All 7.3's to my knowledge have two batteries. My 95 has two batteries in the engine compartment but the 2003 has one hidden down on the rail frame/rail. There's a decal in the engine compartment I found after I did a little cleaning
A other no start issue is a shorted fuel heater in the fuel bowl. It blows the 30 amp fuse that also powers other fuel system components...
An easy indicator is absence of a wait to start light when trying to start....
Where is this located
Thank you Will, great info an a bunch of parts and topics for this engine!
I have the same bus motor- I had the fuel pump go bad twice, and the serpentine belt tensioner broke (easy fix) and the glow plugs were bad...but that only matters in cold weather. With theses big things it's better to fix in the driveway than on the highway...
Thank you so much for making this video does not a lot of videos concerning this motor in absolutely nailed everything from a newbie at like me new to these type of Motors to know what you go and check for first without dealing with slime balls and greedy people wanting money for things they don't even now
LOL, I loved the part where you said it works better if you use the same year vehicle LOL.
Thanks will stone did the icp two weeks ago I have the ipr and cam shaft in hand didnt know about the frp sensor but will look into it two thumbs up.
I may be soon to set foot in the Diesel world with a T444E in a bus/camper conversion.. This was great information! Much appreciated! If it happens I will be buying one of each of those parts and the tools you described, that I don't already have.
mororhead, true that the glowplugs will ignite starting fluid and blow up your engine, possibly... but in warm weather the 7.3 will stat and run with a bad relay, although it takes a minute for sure. I had thick oil in the 7.3 bus I bought, and the guy sold it to me cheap because it had a hard time starting. I changed my oil to a synthetic 5-40 and not it starts almost immediately. just my experience...
the newer style pistons don't like either and if you have to use either most either now is such low % of either just give it a sniff after you have pulled the relay or fuse for the glowplugs so they aren't hot but unless its below 50 degree's a 7.3 will fire up with out them it won't like it and may take a min to light all the holes but it will light but on these newer diesels either has been known to crack pistons in most cases because people using too much but still not worth it plus block heat is another option
Will,
One thing you should do, remove that New Gray Colored CPS Cam Position Sensor and put the original Black CPS back in the bus. The old Black CPS was made with a USA Made Magnetic Hall Sensor and is the best units ever made. If it has the small circle in the center with the exposed magnetic sensor you are in luck. The new Sensors have a cheap offset Asian made Hall Sensor that throws the timing off and causes high EGT temps, and poor performance eating fuel. The CPS goes in with a single 10MM Bolt and you torque it at 18 ft. lbs. The CPS is one of the most important parts of your 7.3L engine, the old black CPS will make the engine run on all 8 cylinders.n The new gray CPS is a nightmare, besides the cheap Hall Sensor, it's offset and not centered. So when the flywheel spins it counts the largest tooth and the smallest tooth on the flywheel. A bad CPS will give the ECM a wrong count and screw-up the entire delivery system, Both the new gray Ford and the International Dark Blue CPS have the same faulty offset hall sensor and are wasting tens of thousands of gallons of fuel each day. I have an old Black CPS in my truck and I get 20-21 MPG on HWY and 17 City with a heavy foot. Here is a diagram to show you how the 7.3L PSD Works starting at the top left with the CPS (CAMP) Sensor.
tinyurl.com/7-3L-Wiring-Diagram .
Where the oil filter located on this truck. I looked all over engine and thought it was the water oversteer at first until I wiped it down and saw it said coolant filter on it. My 2001 which is identical to this has been nothing but a nightmare and my tow costs have been killing me. Had to change the fuel pump 3 times before I got one that finally worked and haven’t had issues with it since.
You mention you got engine codes, but did you also get the "Check Engine" light, or was the only indication of a problem derived from the scan tool (and the problems running and starting).?
Is there a way of contacting you with a quick question about the 444e? Mine is dying when it's warmed up and put into gear. Replaced or serviced: ICP, IPR, CPS, H-pop, fuel pump. Probably stuff I'm forgetting.
I'm getting code 42 from the scanguageD I bought that you suggested. Cleaned all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel filter, and inspected fuel tank, fuel pressure regulator, screen, bowl, and added a supplemental fuel pressure at the tank. It starts right up, just won't run under load once it warms up. Great Vid!
sorry I missed this, you get sorted?
@@WillStone I don't have wait to start light or crank
I used to have a 95 7.3, well still do an selling it now, bought a 7.3 idi that’s better for running more bio fuels.
These 7.3s are a true pain in the ass to fix sometimes, but being that the valve covers are no buried between the truck where the passenger side one only comes off at a certain angle. For the 3/4ton trucks ford should’ve stuck w the 7.3 idi.
Basically if you can afford it, change the factory valve cover gaskets, IPR, ICP, & CPS/ with a spare in the glovebox.
The IPR moves in & out about a couple hundred times a decent to send the right amount of oil to the injectors.
This is a part you want to get that’s genuine motorcraft, other sensors like the ICP just get after market, get motorcraft for the CPS as well.
If it’s taken care of that is about the only real issues these things have.
Just get ready to pull out the wallet for 1K in injectors, & $700 oil pump, & 1-$200 computer tho.
I just found a bus w that engine in it that pas parked in a field, I’m 17 so hopefully I can get it pretty cheap.🤞
Don't forget the wiring issues and the IDM failures?
Just bought a 2000 Bluebird School bus... picked it up in Mississippi yesterday and drove it 500 miles. Everything seemed to be going well till about 300 miles into the trip. Stopped at a rest stop and when started the bus up again got oil/water warning lights. Oil check was good water was almost empty but no obvious leaks on the ground. Let it cool and put 4 gals of water in and drove it the rest of the way. Got home and checked the water... very low level. No water in the oil but noticed a leak on top of the motor towards the back ... explains why the floor area around the front of the cab was slippery, kind of oily. Any ideas where to start?
Mike & Cindy Jones, Realtors heater core.
What style air filter in there? Is it a big round hole or does it have like a neck on it with smaller hole
I have the same bus.
Pretty bad oil leak can't really see where it's coming from.
Near the filter on the driver side front of the motor.
It's shooting out like a pulse.
Any ideas before I take this thing apart.
what error code do you get? check the cps and the icp sensors. bad icp often does this (i've read).
Will Stone also there's a metal plate inside the bus in the middle of the floor between the door and the driver's seat that you can remove to get additional access to the engine bay - just in case you didn't know
I was experiencing the same issues. But....my bus would crank and crank and wouldn't start. I removed the rear heater, and in that process, cut the supply lines to shorten and hide them. Apparently I lost more coolant than I thought and i had NO clue that there is a low coolant sensor that prevents the motor from starting. I replaced the cam sensor and still had no luck. Once I filled the coolant to the "full" level on the container, the damn thing fired right up. I wasn't throwing any codes either. I talked to an old-timer that is a retired bus mechanic. He told me to add coolant. It's between "add" and "full" and that beast lives again. Much cheaper than replacing every sensor...
wgaca JR thanks for your story. Yes if I were to remake the video i would have included: 'make sure all fluid levels are good including coolant, transmission, oil, steering, brake, rear diff, etc.' but i guess i assumed most people would start there. Also if you do follow my advice in the video you would not replace every sensor you would start by reading your error codes which would indicate you should check coolant (in your case). Congratulations on getting it running again though that's always a satisfying feeling!
Never pre fill fuel filters and never wear a ring on your hand while you work on anything.
I have 2000 international 4700 the oil is being pulled from the engine into the fuel tank. Have not been able to find the problem any information will helpful thanks
Brilliant and VERY much needed. But please slow down the speeding camera - I nearly fell off my chair lol
also to check icp you can start the engine with it running disconnect the connector. the engine will give a quick hesatation and idle normal. but besure to disconnect the battery befor doing any work under the hood
what brand or model is that code reader i need to buy one
So i have a 96 int 3800 bus with t444e and i cannot find the separator. have you ever seen them in strange places? ive traced down the framerail and i dont see it anywhere where i see fuel lines. i have a service panel inside the bus, could it be under there?
I’m having a no start issue after changing icp and IPR truck was fine before any suggestions? It sound like it’s not getting fuel .
Sir.what is the firing order that bus and how inch.or mm valve clearance?
Next weeks video will cover the under valve cover harness, IDM, and HPOP....(which is what you unscrewed the IPR out of)... a weak HPOP can throw ICP codes and light up your CEL but usually only under a heavy load or going up a hill, also can cause hard starts..... lol
Whiskey Tango can you please write out what IDM and HPOP are?
Thanks
@@rogue1busintergalactic83 injector driver module and high pressure oil pump
I've replaced a lot of IDM's valve cover harnesses and injectors only a few HPOP but I hear about them failing alot also
@@ttamn92 I've got a swamps high voltage high frequency idm and have been pretty happy with it. Haven't had a bad injector yet but religiously run archoil oil additive and fuel additive for anti stiction.
thanks for sharing the video have a question where do you pick up that solenoid for $18 at?
What could be the causes of mixture of water and diesel,cause I have one of the engine that I haven't figured out what causes the mixture. If you have any idea let me know.
Dude I need your help I bought a school bus and someone ripped all the wiring out of it and now it wont start. Can I replace the computer so the bus will start? So many safety stops in a bus. I would pay for your advise. Its a 2001 International 444e engine
I'm very sorry for the delayed reply - what an awful situation. Was this a thief, or the previous owner or something? Really depends what you mean by 'all the wiring' :/
You're gonna be best off visiting an International dealer or finding a local diesel shop. You can call and see who your local school district uses. If they have their own shop/mechanic, try to get put in touch 'just to ask a quick question'. To replace the computer you're gonna need some specifics that the dealer will be able to look up for you, or you might be able to find based on the VIN. But, yeah I'd seek IRL help asap if you haven't already - a bit difficult to help with that particular situation via interwebs
2000 4700 t444e here, jump in and start it first thing, the idle starts to climb gradually and stays at high idle until I tap the accelerator pedal. It calms down after that. Any ideas?
Normal behavior to get the engine up to ideal temp. Let it happen, don't tap the accelerator
@@WillStone Ok, I appreciate the reply.
What’s the oil pipe/tube that runs from the front of the engine to the oil filter head? Mine is leaking like crazy. Is it an involved repair?
How do you translate scangauge codes? I'm having a really hard time finding information
I've been looking for a 72 passenger bus myself. I'm partial to the DT466, but haven't totally ruled out the T444E. as an option - the high production numbers should make parts and boneyard scavenge readily available, but tell me, is it enough engine for comfortable highway cruising? What's the "top" speed of your bus (without beating it to death)?
We weigh 22,000 pounds and have additional drag from our roof deck and solar panels and can cruise at 61mph no problem. Mountain highways were troublesome until we replaced the water pump and cleaned the radiator in a commercial degreaser last month
Thanks :)
what did you use for a water pump? I do have the issue in hot weather of mine running a bit warm... I had a bad fan clutch mine is not the nice horton like yours.. its an old-style viscous.. but now that works.. however it still likes to run about 212 or so on hot days at 65 on the freeway with my Air-conditioner on and heater valves closed... I really despise the OH split radiator.. both of my busses have the rad design.. when you say you cleaned your rad in degreaser.. the inside of it or just the outside fins?
Cuantos sensores controlan el motor el.ipr icp y map y donde van ubicados es q tengo un problema con un motor.dd.esos q.me.piede fuerza
Great information here! Will I am looking for a diesel p/u 1996 or earlier 12v Cummins or a 7.3 Power Stroke. In your opinion which is the most trouble free / durable / ease in working on in stock configuration/? Thanks
they made 12v up to 98. 24v are not bad motors if you put a lift pump before it destroys your injector pump. all diesels are expensive to maintain you can count on close to $100 every servicing. if you use quality oil and filters. they are all pretty much easy to work on if you buy a high mileage truck you can expect to replace all the o rings/ gaskets especiially if it has a little age on it. just my .02
Go with a 7.3 Ford or a 12v cummings. Durable and easy to work with. Of course maintanance is key on these engines. Expect to shell out $100 or a little bit more on each servicing. Lucas fuel additive goes a long way too, put in regularly. I have had my 7.3 for about 4 yrs now, and haven't had an issue with it. Always service it on time, replace all filters, and take it easy on her, she will last. 300k on the clock, and she takes me anywhere, anytime. No smoke or rattling noises.
hayden ingram and add fuel additives with lubrication properties because of the low sulphur diesel it doesn't provided enough luberication for the lift and injector pumps on the Cummins or any diesel as far as that goes thats the reason 2003 dodge Cummins injector pumps had a high failure rate because of lack of lubrication to the pumps
they had high failure rates due to low fuel pressure. because it has electric lift pump on the side of engine and after so much vibration they fail then the ip fails.
hayden ingram they put the electric fuel pump in the tank also and they still had issues with them even with the mechanical lift pump anyways got to love government take something simple and make it complicated
Thanks for the Video. I have a 7.3 with a Crank no start. Found the fuel bowl empty. I checked the Volts on the fuel pump and theirs 12v. Do you have any suggestions on what it could be ?
Which error codes are you seeing?
Will Stone None due to the battery was disconnected. Besides the fuel pump what electrical part should I check ?
Could be a clog in the fuel line, a couple different sensors, or the fuel pump... just because it has power doesn't mean it's working. I would start by looking at the error code(s)
Will Stone hi. Im back. Just to let you know. I Replaced the IPR, ICP and the fuel pump. My truck did turned On. But after 5 minutes it turned off. My question is did that happened to the 7.3 engine after replacing all the sensors ?
What about the fuel filter or the 2 screens in the fuel tank?
I have the same motor but oil keeps coming thru my turbo exhaust even after I changed turbos… any ideas
thank u for the video..helpful...I had a mechanic swap out my motor because of bad headgasket...now it cranks does not start any help would be great
What led you to believe the head gasket was bad?
I’ve been through all that, rebuilt the HPOP and replaced the IPR and several other things and checked everything else you mentioned, and more, and my truck still refuses to start. Any ideas? It’s really frustrating. The last time it ran was July and it did great on a trip, but a few days after the trip, and ever since then, it refuses to start.
What error codes do you have?
I guess being so interested in that Bus Motor, I didn't really focus on your Nose, uh, I just wanted to know the common problems with The Engine. Good Video, very informative.
I HAVE A 2000 INTERNATIONAL 4600 DT466E, Truck wouldn't start due to fuel, Got the truck started and stay running but I'm not getting full power when I try to drive it, Do have any idea what could be wrong?
Great video.
Im from holland. and i have the same bus. only from the year 1996. I have problems white the engine. Bud where can you find the cable for the scangauge. i cant find it. i have looking the hole day for it. i hope some 1 can help me.
Sorry my english is not so verry good.
It plugs in under the steering wheel between the steering wheel and the ignition
Cool vid, much appreciated. I have a 96 powerstroke and I'm having some issues of her dying here and there but starting right back up. The last time it was hard to restart so I guess I need to start figuring this out before I get stranded. Any suggestions where to start considering these syptoms?
What's the name of that tool you used for the trouble codes?
ScanGauge Diesel
Thank you for the video
My 7.3 does not want to accelerate on 4th 5th and 6th gear and it won't go past 45 mph
On these things, it’s way easier to just change all the sensors/IPR, ICP, CPS, Mechaical fuel pump delete, valve cover harness update to the single plug instead of the factory defective dual plug design.
Can the sensors cost the engine not starting
i just bought a 2001 international 4700 bucket truck with the t444e and it was about a 260mile trip 5hrs at 55-63mph, the truck runs and idles great but about 10-15times on the way back home it dropped from 2500rpms to 0 or 2000 rpm both 0 and 1500-2000 several times each, the truck did hesitate or jerk in a slowing down motion then regained rpm very quickly every time except for the time it did it for about 15-20seconds.....any ideas?? starts right up overtime and idles no problem...only did it in 6th gear going around 55-60 2000-2500rpms
Did you fix it? Have the same problem with mine in 6th gear.
Although you posted a month ago I'm curious what was your issue. Was it a bad battery or alternator
look at the injector/glowplug harness where it goes over the valve cover. It is rubbing through and causing the injectors to short out. super common on those
Replace your cps. Cam position sensor. Front of engine, just above the harmonic dampener on the right side (passenger side). Should be one 10mm bolt and wiggle or pry it out with a screwdriver. Be sure to buy an OEM part from ford or international because the ones that napa and other chain aftermarket stores sell are trash and will fail right away.
If you don't fix it, it'll keep getting worse intermittently especially in hot or wet weather.
And eventually it won't work at all. When you get the part, buy two and keep a spare in the cab.
Is the oil capacity 15 quarts like in a regular 7.3 f350
Umm I think depending on application's might have a deep oil sump.
Whut application is it in.
I have a different type of Code Reader from yours. The Code that comes up on my Code Reader is FMI=4 Voltage Below Normal, Or shorted to Low Source. Can you tell me what that means? Thank you.
ICP sensor needs to be replaced or the signal line has an open or short. Try replacing the ICP. Also, if you google "t444e fmi 4 error code voltage below normal" you'll see lot's of great info. GL!
Thank you
hello, so I had a blown head gasket...I had a mechanic change out the t444e motor now new motor will not crank over...just cranks...any ideas? mechanic saying ecu needs programming or bad ecu?
+Jalal Nasir Sounds like it's your mechanic's problem. He should figure it out, or pay to have it fixed by someone more qualified.
+Ryan Detwiler yes should have
I'm curious how this worked out. Just going off the comments my interpretation was that your mechanic was not up to the task, for whatever reason. It's step by step starting with fuel supply. Electric fuel pump putting fuel into the fuel filter housing?
does your oil pressure gauge "hunt" while on the road? I just picked up a 2000 Bluebird with a T444E... drove it 1050 miles home.. runs beautiful.. my fan clutch is bad so i ran about 210 temperature on the hot days but thats an easy fix.. it has the typical intermittent tap-tap at idle sometimes.. (LL #8 injector needed maybe...).... the one thing i notice us drivng down the road on the highway.. my oil pressure gauge hunts from say 48 down to 40 then back up again... repeats about every 10 seconds... just wondered if yours does the same thing.. what does your dash oil pressure gauge read after your engine hot and you are on the highway? I dont have a normal OBD-II port for a scanner on mine.. I have a scangauge 2 that i use on my cars but what did you use for a pinout to the connector to pull the codes? my bus has a round connector instead of the normal style, otherwise mine looks identical under the hood.. its a 190HP variant of the T444E, in a little 6 window, the bus has better pickup than my 7 row DT-360 bus has.
should me ntion the scangauge you use is a VR model... i ended up using the international software servicemaxx and running a J1708 adapter... one thing to note is that the fuel Pressure regulator nut on the older ones only ran at 47 PSI pressure .. its actually the spring in the regulator... that was replaced due to a TSB for late 99s.. (I noticed yours has the notched FPR nut which means it was updated to the 72 PSI).. others watching its a worthwhile upgrade.. quieted my engine right down form alot of the cackle.. my oil pressure still hunts, however is in range according to the books so I let it do its thing... the EBPV is another thing that will cost stalling or sometimes no-starts... many of the cold-weather busses had this on it as a war up device... it causes issues by sticking sometimes and blocking up the exhaust...
I have a question I have 1996 international, it my first time doing oil change in this truck how much oil I need to put in side the oil filter..
thx
fill her up till oil runs out the valve covers...that will fuck'n do it bruh!
Damm, you need to PM me your weed guy cause you must be couch locked and completely incoherent in your moms basement no doubt
12-14 etc depending on yr/mod tot, fill new oil filter before installation(all diesels)
@@mashed-out ridiculous
Hey man I've got a few questions about this same kind of bus and want to connect with you for some insight
My first question is if the code reader has a round plug or if I need an adapter
I got a 1984 s 1800 series and I just bought a 1998 diesel pusher will this engine fit into my Diesel Pusher? My Diesel Pusher has a t444 e? but I'm unsure of what my other bus has in it
One very important addition to this "things to look for video" that was well made I'd like to say. Also the UVC injector and glow plug harnesses. Aka under the valve cover.
Any word on where to get a fuel filter receiver? Mine is rare and discontinued. It has a major crack. :-(
David Hereaux find a machine shop or a reputable fabrication shop to TIG weld the crack closed.
do u know if the school bus turbo is more powerful than the cab and chassis t44e turbo
Gerald Adler same turbo
I hope everyone's still firing up and rolling!
Best video for the 7.3
hi will, excelent information , my name is miguel , have f350 7.3 model 2000 only 2 weeks ago not start, but i have a cuestion , my truck not start even smell gasoline or start fluid, i thinks the piston ring, are bad i am ready to pull out and repair do you have some trick to comfim about the rings? thanks
Hello, can you please write me a list what exactly I need everything? I report from Germany and unfortunately you got very little to spare part or help. Our school bus 1999 goes out during the trip and spring very badly again Filter we have already changed. At first we thought it was due to the defective diesel line and the engine draws air. We do not know. Can you tell us where to get help? Best regards Steffen
I would start by purchasing a code reader on Amazon called the 'scangauge d' the d stands for diesel version the normal one won't work. then use it to find out what errors the engine computer is reporting and fix them
Hello Will, I bought it and have to wait a bit. I am registering Greeting Steffen
write it donw yourself , holy talk about asking someone to do too much, watch the video and write it down..
what is the coolant capacity of these buses? I have a international 3400 w the t444e, its got a bad water pump that leaks, about to replace it, cant find the coolant capacity specs anywhere!?
we just did the water pump ourselves, I can check the receipt if you still need it?
What about the MAP sensor? Weak power is also a common issue with these engines
Question, can you use an OBD2 reader to read the codes? I know you would need an adapter for the J1939 (or whatever plug it is), but I don't know if it would read international codes, as most of the scanners I see don't tell you truck models like International, Freightliner, etc. Does it just do a half job? Or will it read all the codes correctly?
Thanks for this video, it seems like it's very helpful. I basically JUST got my 1st diesel ever, so I'm still learning all of this stuff, but it sounds like this is a great video. I even saved it to my computer just in case I couldn't find it on RUclips. In fact, thats how im here now, I couldnt remember the exact title, but I had saved the video and thus was able to get the exact title and get here, lol.
Afaik there isn't an adapter unfortunately
@@WillStone
There is adapters listed on Amazon. They wouldn't sell them if they didn't work, right? Or is that just a naive assumption?
@@alericjohansen6775 yeah afaik it won't work but please let me know if you find out otherwise
My bus doesn't start, I've change the selenoid ignition, change oil, filters. What could be the problem? Someone can help me i'll appreciate. Thanks
What error code? How's the battery voltage? Is it trying to start?
@@WillStone Yes its start
But don't turn over
Ok so I Replaced the crankshaft potion sensor now I have 0 power when I accelerate it I’m stuck
you mean cam position sensor? why did you replace it? sounds like the new one is bad, try another?
Will Stone yeah I ment that sorry I was beyond tired at that point and I did but than it still messed up I also checked the wire harness and I’m still getting the code
Hi! I'm going to get a f250 with a navistar 7.3 with 80k miles . How many miles can this engine's run for?
abrahan espinoza depends on the maintenance and if it's modified. If it's stock or mild tune and well taken care of it's a half a million mile engine. Pretty much guarantee 250k
Mine is a 2000 F350 7.3L, crewcab 4x4 dually....has 380,000 on original engine. Auto trans made it to 360,000. Had a straight pipe and Superchip tuner on it it's whole life. Still runs great!
How's this bus and 444e running today? :) I'm thinking of buying a 2004 444e shortish bus.
Fantastically. Had her for 7 years now, only relatively major repair was replacing the water pump a few years back. Otherwise just a couple brake lines and rotors etc. Highway mountain passes are a little tough in the summer, other than that, no complaints.
@@WillStone Awesome. I am considering buying 2004 IC CE with the 444e. 10,000-14,000 GVWR. Will be doing a lot of CO,AZ, NM, NV driving. Hope this motor pushes us over all the mountains with grace as long as we take car of her. :)
@@WyattBrown awesome! good luck. the limiting factor for ours is the transmission.
@@WillStone Are you running the 1000 or 2000 series Allison?
@@WyattBrown at545
Can you please show how and where the computer hook up is !!! I would be so thankful !!! Great video by the way !! Just got my bus and I'm wanting to get all info I can get and learn !!!
I wish u showed us the part # for that cam shaft sensor.
Do you or anyone on here have links to the parts you bought? I’d really appreciate it. Been dealing with some of the same codes.
sounds like you already have a code reader, which codes exactly? i got a lot of stuff on amazon/ebay but the listings may have changed since then. any ford dealership should have most, and autozone sometimes has stuff (a lot of parts are shared with the regular ford 7.3L PSD so just have them look up one of those)
It’s the code for icp low I forget the number off hand. Kind of a rough idle not rolling but chugging. Fine on the highway.
olive jalopy what’s the name of the code reader I couldn’t find it on amazon
@@joetow100 I don't remember paying quite this much but it's prolly worth it. I use it permanently installed to view temp, rpm, mph, etc www.amazon.com/dp/B00VX2NP4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M8dxEbPJ8F6WB
Can you make a list of the parts plz
Just there name so I know what to buy
DO YOU HAVE A LINK TO THE SCANNER
www.scangauge.com/
Will, mind sharing the exact model of your diagnostic/code reader? I'm about to get a bus with the same engine and want the same reader you have. Thanks for the incredibly helpful video!
Andrew Motter glad it was helpful - sure, it's the 'Scangauge D' the d stands for diesel model. I would read you the numbers off the back but I permanently attached it to inside my dash because most of the oem gauges don't work. Pretty sure they just make an odbII (regular) and a combo Diesel (j1939 & j1708) version. Ours uses the j1708 pinout.
I have a 7.3 L powerstroke 444e 2000 International School Bus. This question stumps well known machanics I have to leave it plugged in 24/7 it will not start we use starter fluid than sound like it is going to blow a rod. Show me how smart you are please!
change your oil to 5w 40.... Simple. ...
Tammy Ramsey glow plug relay don't use starting fluid. Motor will not run without glow plugs cycling continuously until motor is hot.
If it sounds like your blowing a rod ( knocking) it could be your ipr valve
Why do my wait to start light come on while I am driving my bus ??
afaik that light goes off when the glow plugs get to temp. ours sometimes randomly turns on while driving and the beeping starts too... i think it's failing wiring somewhere, a bad connection, or a faulty sensor. if anyone knows, please share
dunno about international setups but ford trucks the tank selector leaks air in the fuel system a pickup in the fuel tank rotts off the fuel bowl screen gets clogged and the valve cover gaskets go bad these engines wont crank with a weak set of batterys either it actually needs a certain rpm before it will fire the injectors
i also keep a spare crank sensor and of course i my ipr is acting up as well still cheaper to maintain than a chevy diesel though
Como puedo acelerar el pedal de aceleracion? O que escaner debo usar para este tipo de motores.