Watching Bill work on a 7.3 again is a dream come true for me. Wish he would do a whole series of 7.3 backyard barn find videos. 7.3 fans would love it.
@@onehappyfarmer3461 I wouldn't let this guy work on a lawn mower. There is a check ball in the block that keeps oil from draining back out of the reservoir. The low pressure pump could be completely worn out and would fill the reservoir in 3 seconds when cold. I can't believe people believe this guys bs. This is as bad as telling you to change the reservoir oil with oil change. There is about 1 pint of oil in there, and 2 qts left in each head. Why not pull the heads and drain them every oil change. What a fool. All these people on here have made themselves believe they start and run better and quieter after doing that. Another one is the crank case vent. He says it will cause the turbo to leak. Uh huh, ok.
Just did this repair/swap and worked out exactly how Bill said. Perfect. Really sad to hear of his passing. He was absolutely in my thoughts during the entire time I changed out the LPOP the other day. He is going to be missed on so many levels...
My '96 f250 super duty almost has half a million miles on it! I just wish diesel was a bit cheaper so I could afford to get to a million miles sooner! One trick I learned a while ago is that these engines do not like the ultra low sulfur diesel fuel as it has a lot less lubricity than old school diesel fuel, so add a bit of 2-stroke oil to the diesel when you fuel it up, makes the engine run a lot smoother and keeps the fuel system lubed.
Same here, several 7.3’s on our farm. 00 - 03’s with most having about 190k on them, they’ll still be running when I take my 6.4L to the scrapper and might just out live the 6.7s too. Biggest issue now is getting parts, anything body related is getting harder to find and you can practically forget finding a take-off bed that’s any good. Ours are all (but 1) flat beds now.
There is a trick to get the fan on. Tape a string to the fan nut and wind the string around it. (Think of it as a pull string to lawn mower). When you get the fan nut just started, slowly pull the string and it will wind right on. This is an old BMW e30 trick. Works like a charm.
This is absolutely right, and to help you illustrate and diagnose this, one of the criteria that need to be met for the oil pressure gauge to move to the normal position(It doesn't represent the actual oil pressure) is that the sensor at the top of the HPOP reservoir he pointed out has to receive pressurized oil. That means the reservoir has to be filled to the top, and if your low pressure pump is worn and allowing excessive drainback, it can take an extremely long time to fill. Combine this with the fact that the injectors will not fire until the reservoir is filled and the high pressure oil system has been sufficiently pressurized (I believe 4-500 PSI is required) can make it near impossible to start without correcting these conditions. Also, this means the engine must crank fast enough that the high pressure oil pump produces sufficient pressure, as it's driven directly from the geartrain. In either case the computer will not throw a diagnostic code because the sensors themselves are accurately measuring what they are designed to. Cat and international HEUI injected engines are a different sort of beast to understand, but once you do, they can be quite potent and reliable early high pressure injection diesel engines
I have watched a lot of these powerstrokehelp videos, and this simple well down video just helped my son and I get a 99 7.3 powerstroke running. This truck was my brother's truck and last fall as it got cooler the truck wouldn't start. He bought a 2021 Ford and sold me his older 7.3 to me. My son and I replaced the low pressure oil pump in about 2hrs, and it starts and runs great now. Going to do some of the fuel mod grades Bill has shown in some other videos. Good teacher, and appreciate his veterans support
Thank you again for helping us out with our bad ass 7.3’s !! You make me want to keep mine forever when I watch your videos, when sometimes I get down on myself because my girl’s suspension is so damn rough and I see folks out there with new trucks
Just remember for the cost of one monthly payment of those brand new shiny trucks with all their useless cameras and whatever you could dang near overhaul the entire suspension on your 7.3. I love my 7.3 515k still going strong
@@wcpportfolio If you have a 7.3 DON'T EVERY TEST DRIVE A NEW TRUCK, AND REFUSE YOUR BUDDYS LETTING YOU, I still have my 7.3 but I now drive a 6.7 because it's soo much more refined and powerful and effortless when towing, plus the brakes are so much better.
Bill, you are always so helpful, and I love your stories to break up the RUclips PowerStroke classes. It looked like the truck had over 300k on it already, so it’s just getting broke in 😀
I'll tell you what I have watched a lot of RUclips videos about working on vehicles and this guy by far explains everything thoroughly and simple. And his happy-go-lucky attitude really helps the stress level thank you so much sir I guess your name is bill God bless you.
Love my 97 7.3, she has 428,000 miles and no glo plugs, injectors or Hipop! She still cranks well in cold, I just Waite about 15 to 20 seconds after lite goes out, she fires right up! I know I'll have to do something sooner or later but for now she's OK! Plan on driving her for another 22 years if possible!
After spending 10 grand at a technical school, you'll be lucky if anything remotely close to what this man just taught....is shared in a classroom. Thank you PSH!! 🇺🇸 🇺🇲
Tech school grads are no more than dealer employees called parts changers lmfao....ask a Chevy guy to fix a BMW or a Ford tech to fix anything the first time lmao
@@christopherparis6841 and then ask them to repair anything that doesn’t require proprietary diagnostic tools. But that’s just on average. There are some exceptional young folks out there who can fix anything but they’re a challenge to find.
thoroughly enjoy any and all series getting put out...just bought a supposedly dead 01 F350 7.3...getting it back to a stock config as much as possible for a baseline diagnostic...your videos are extremely helpful...experienced various gas motor repairs but limited in diesel...love it...thanks
Great info Bill, makes me sick that I traded in a very nice 2000 f-350 4x4 in 2005 because my Ford dealer kept replacing fuel injectors at 480.00 each, and could not find the issue, this had to be the cure.
Seen this dozens of times. Most dealers throw injectors and icp sensors along with the occasional high pressure pump. Great video Bill from one tech to another!
Don't forget to change the check ball and seat. And yes there is a check ball. It's in the front of the block behind the timing cover on the left side of the center gally. It's the pressure relief valve for the lpop
Thank you for all the infor you you provide in your vidoes on the 7.3, I'm a fairly new owner of an 01 dinosaur, but it's been the best dinosaur I've owned over the years and plan on keeping it until vehicles fly.
Great video! Love my 7.3's! Right now both of my trucks are running 7.3's from CoPart wrecks. The high mileage one is hard to start cold. I replaced the glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo while the cab was off the truck and also verified the GP relay. I assumed it was low compression or stiction, but I'll have to check the oil in the HPOP reservoir to see if it's draining back thru the pump.
Here I am 6 months later watching this video again. The weather has been warm and the truck always starts when it's warm. Now, it's gotten Georgia cold again and my daily driver needs some help. I really need to see if this is the cause and fix it. I already have the Harbor Freight puller and can confirm that it really does work. One note: loosen the fan clutch BEFORE removing the belt or loosening the fan shroud. Makes it easier. As I spin off the fan clutch, I keep one hand on the blade from the front side of the shroud so when it comes loose you just lift the fan and shroud together without damaging the radiator.
I've done this job a fair amount of times myself and I still watched this from start to finish to learn from the best. Great video and I really love the little facts on top of the main content
320K Miles and its has began, one thing that helps starting until you have time to change the oil pump is to restart it cold in evening after running it for the day. Then the next day your starter will certainly thank you for not making it work to hard. Starter is also new since 75K. Cold (29-32) morning start can test your batteries. Still gets 14 mpg same as at 70K when bought truck. PowerStrokeHelp as always the Best of the Best !!!
There is a reservoir above the HP oil pump to feed it oil during start up. There is a ball check valve in the passenger head that feeds the reservoir. Normally the LP oil pump does not need to feed the reservoir during start up. I would check that the ball check valve is not leaking, causing the reservoir to drain down. The other potential cause of hard start due to lack of high pressure oil is a leaking poppet valve on one of the injectors. If an injector O Ring wears out, debris can get into the poppet valve and cause it to leak.
Hmm contradictory info. He just said the opposite but you’re very specific. Let me ask you. Just bought a 99 7.3 dirt cheap for some body parts for my 02 7.3 story was it got impossible to start in cold weather despite having starter and new HIGH pressure oil pump mechanic told him low compression not worth rebuilding engine on such rough truck. Not sure why high pressure pump was replaced if was just dead or an attempt at solving cold start. Anyway watching this thought maybe there’s life in that $1000 parts truck after all but then your comments dashed my hopes of getting it running w low pressure pump. Any insight appreciated.
Ya I mean that makes perfect sense... If that was true then you'd clearly not see any difference with him replacing the low pressure pump so imma call bullshit on your theory he just supplied you with truth and you're still to blind to see 🙈
The Check Valve (Ball, Spring) is on the Driver's Side Timing Cover area, 1996+ 1994-1995, Check Valve is on the HPOP. If the problem is bleeding HPOP Reservoir overnight, it's the Check Valve, Not LPOP! If HPOP is not pumping up properly while running, then LPOP is the problem 👍
I always recommend your sight when it comes to the Ford Diesels trucks . Even how you test head gaskets , the caster shake , death wobble or what ever folks call it . Your sight helped me fix my friends 6 .0 egr cooler problem. I remember and passed on to my friends how you suggested on the oil change ect . Thanks for all you do . Jim
good to see this video! my 2002 has 434,000 miles on original oil pump and it takes a longer than usual time to start. thanks for sharing this!! I'll be installing a new pump on my ole faithful superduty. (and still running original oem stock injecters)
ive owned my 7.3 since new in 2001. To make a LONG story short, truck looks new in and out with 350+000. miles pulling 10k lb trailer toting a mini ex. Anyway I NEVER knew about this pump. Ill be damned. Shazamm. Mine is not hard to start but if it does i know another possible place to look to R&R. THANK YOU for this video. Hell you guys taught me a lot so far this is just another episode of knowledge
Tip: in case you don’t have an impact or don’t want to remove the radiator, you can hold the flywheel with two vice grips and the use the puller with hand tools. Also the Melling instructions state to soak the pump in oil but I’m sure the grease is no problem. Thanks for the video Bill!
Very informative! I have been fighting a similar symptom with my 1996 F350 7.3L for a year. Last year in the Midwest on some cold days it would start right off, then let it set for a day and it would take a lot of cranking to get it started. I put new glow plugs in it and had the rely and low oil pressure pump checked checked, but that had no effect on curing the problem. Finally, a few weeks ago it started right off with temps in the teens, but all of the dash warning lights came on. I drove it a few blocks down the street to my auto service station. The starter was still running and they had to disconnect the alternator to shut down the engine. They replaced the rack in the steering column and now this truck starts consistently on the second revolution down into the low teens. I am wondering if the wires in the steering column were intermittently fouling up the relay or timing on the glow plugs. I had noticed that the column shifter (automatic) was getting a bit stiff starting last year and the cruise control would be intermittent. If the dash lights would not have all come on who knows how long it would have taken to find the problem. Last year during cold weather I would take it to the Ford garage and let it set over night. As it would be the truck would start just fine. But a few days later I would end up with these long cranking sessions to get it started at even 30 to 40 degree temps. I hope his information is helpful.
I just bought a 1996 F-250 with a 7.3 yesterday. It is my first diesel truck. It has 180,000 miles and long cranks before it starts. I thought it was just the fuel system because I had no idea about the oil pressure controlling the injectors. Thanks for the info.
Wow thank you so much for this video. I have a 2002 with 30K mile on it and I think I read the odometer on your truck to have 130+K miles on it. Probably will not need this video for a while but now I know how to do the job. Thank you for your time to come out with the video
I'm pretty sure it had like 313K miles on it. I am almost to 500,000 miles on mine, but diesel has gotten so expensive it's hard to justify just driving it to try to hit half a million miles now.
The old 250 I recently bought has pretty much exactly this cold start symptom, and I was starting to notice that it wasn't really about cold but rather how long it had sat since last run - if it's been started within 8 hours or so it kicks right over. I just checked it and the complete no start transitioned to trying to kick over right when the oil pressure on the cluster goes up after several cranks, it then runs REALLY rough for 10-15 seconds before suddenly smoothing out and running great. This fits in really closely with what I've been observing and gives me another thing to investigate.
I understand it calls for the old green coolant but if a late model 7.3 then it can take ELC and you don’t have to monitor which almost everyone doesn’t do properly. Seen cavitation multiple times because coolant wasn’t properly maintained.
Thank you Bill. One guy told me I was going to have to put a new plate on behind the oil pump. He said scratches in that plate allowed the oil to leak out of the reservoir. Mark of a mechanic: blood at 7:16. I wear leather gloves now when I can. No torque on the harmonic balancer bolt?
Great video but there is a check ball in the system which almost never goes bad but possible for crap to get stuck in it to keep it open. It’s in the block on the driver side behind The front engine cover reservoir and SIDE OF pump. The Allen head bolt is accessible from the top. Need to remove some stuff out of the way and drain the reservoir first. A bad high high pressure oil leak can also drain your reservoir like a stuck open IPR.
Great information! I have the long crank every time i start it unless i shut it off and then start it back up immediately. Injector orings didnt fix it, lpop didn't fix it. What are the high pressure oil system parts that can cause the resevior to drain? Im goind to do the ipr valve and that check ball this week.
Kinda an ole school video but .... Bill is the school master in any day. I love my two 7.3s. Give me simplicity in this f'nnn complex world! Thank you Bill! God bless you family and all.
I am a 2002 F350 XLT 4x4 3rd owner..no rust well maintained (Oregon) , she has over 200.000.00 miles and running great, You and your channel has helped me so much become my own Diesel Mechanic, Thank You sir....Q: thoes coolant bottles..where can i get a good make ..so many bad comments on ordering them and failing...do you have any good used or ?? and what also is a recommended water pump...i want whats right not a fancy color or name. BTW i did replace the cap you recommended in a previous video.
RIP Bill Another reason for this to happen (probably more common than a low pressure oil pump failure) is failed injector O-rings. My truck had these symptoms. Many of the O-rings had failed which required a long crank to build up enough oil pressure to operate the injectors.
Might be doing this to mine soon, just as soon as I figure out how coolant is getting into the oil pan. If it's the front cover, then I'll be replacing the front pump as well. Thanks, Bill.
I miss my old 7.3. But then MN/ND winters come around and I appreciate my 6.7. Twice the stock power of a 7.3 and starts every time no matter how low the temperature is, as long as it has good batteries and number 1 diesel.
Sometimes I feel like I should buy a bunch of extra parts before this stuff is not available other than some duralast junk. I keep extra sensors and lines in the truck now but I feel like I should stock critical parts for the future.
3:24 has me concerned. From a couple of oil changes ago I’ve been running T6, when you said not to use synthetic oil I almost shit my pants. Is it a problem switching back?
Why couldn't someone tap into the plug there at the top of the upper reservoir and run a feed line with check valve in from the oil pan so Every time you go to start the truck it pushes oil into it while you're waiting for the glow plug light to turn off?
I would recomend lubriplate not redn tacky thats not the greateast to be raming into bearings and hpop systems lubriplate does same thing and its ment for bearings wen you assemble and engine thoughts on this ?
Thank you so much for this video!! I have one of these dinosaurs yet and it's awesome to see you working on one! Mines bout to cross 200k. I did a cylinder contribution test and codes came up for cylinder 3 and 8. Truck runs good and has good power tho. I'm fixin to haul a tractor with it this weekend or sometime soon. Could injector seals cause them codes? Seems like I have just a slight bit more blowby then I use to
Great work, information and video. Have a 99.5 F350 7.3, with 277000 miles looking for a scan tool but one that will all the vehicles we have. What do you recommend.
'01 7.3 dually. on cold mornings around 40f, mine turns over and over with no start. I always hear a relay clicking under dash area behind dash at ashtray/floorboard area. When relay stops clicking, she'll start.
If my 02 7.3 cranks for a long time in the morning is clicks too when trying to start. That probably because the battery voltage is going to low while cranking and relays and what not are kicking in and out. How old are your batteries?
I've got the long cranking cold starts , never thought to look at the oil pressure on dash . Now if my motor wasn't currently locked up from previously starting it . Began to crank over and stopped . Now to pull injectors , yippee.
I think my truck may have same issues. 2000 7.3 550 with just under 200k. Been playing hell and it still is having issues starting. Was thinking could be lower in engine like this. Though got some work done all around. May run great after I do this.
Watching Bill work on a 7.3 again is a dream come true for me. Wish he would do a whole series of 7.3 backyard barn find videos. 7.3 fans would love it.
No kidding, I have a 7.3 and his informative videos are great to watch.
@@onehappyfarmer3461
I wouldn't let this guy work on a lawn mower.
There is a check ball in the block that keeps oil from draining back out of the reservoir.
The low pressure pump could be completely worn out and would fill the reservoir in 3 seconds when cold.
I can't believe people believe this guys bs.
This is as bad as telling you to change the reservoir oil with oil change.
There is about 1 pint of oil in there, and 2 qts left in each head.
Why not pull the heads and drain them every oil change.
What a fool.
All these people on here have made themselves believe they start and run better and quieter after doing that.
Another one is the crank case vent.
He says it will cause the turbo to leak. Uh huh, ok.
@@alhanes5803 check ball is the shortcut circuit, but I agree there is no way the lp pump is the cause of no oil in the rez
Just did this repair/swap and worked out exactly how Bill said. Perfect. Really sad to hear of his passing. He was absolutely in my thoughts during the entire time I changed out the LPOP the other day. He is going to be missed on so many levels...
This man is doing God's work. Diesel Tech Ron is smiling down knowing you're still helping keep these old trucks alive.
Diesel Tech Ron is my hero, tragedy struck when he left too soon.
#keeptheolddawgsrollin
THANK YOU RON
Peg from Zip Ties would be mighty proud of you for that cold start redline at 21:00 👌🤣
I'm glad others here watch that legend
Keep up the 7.3 videos! We love them. Not everyone can afford the new trucks. I have a 2002 Super Duty.
My '96 f250 super duty almost has half a million miles on it! I just wish diesel was a bit cheaper so I could afford to get to a million miles sooner! One trick I learned a while ago is that these engines do not like the ultra low sulfur diesel fuel as it has a lot less lubricity than old school diesel fuel, so add a bit of 2-stroke oil to the diesel when you fuel it up, makes the engine run a lot smoother and keeps the fuel system lubed.
I’ve got a 2001 with a manual trans . I’ll never sell that thing . I’ve test drove new trucks and I can’t justify another mortgage payment 😂😂.
Same here, several 7.3’s on our farm. 00 - 03’s with most having about 190k on them, they’ll still be running when I take my 6.4L to the scrapper and might just out live the 6.7s too. Biggest issue now is getting parts, anything body related is getting harder to find and you can practically forget finding a take-off bed that’s any good. Ours are all (but 1) flat beds now.
@@johnbrizendine7716
I dump a qt of dextron 2 tranny fluid in every fill up.
Poor man's injection clean and lube.
There is a trick to get the fan on. Tape a string to the fan nut and wind the string around it. (Think of it as a pull string to lawn mower). When you get the fan nut just started, slowly pull the string and it will wind right on. This is an old BMW e30 trick. Works like a charm.
This is absolutely right, and to help you illustrate and diagnose this, one of the criteria that need to be met for the oil pressure gauge to move to the normal position(It doesn't represent the actual oil pressure) is that the sensor at the top of the HPOP reservoir he pointed out has to receive pressurized oil. That means the reservoir has to be filled to the top, and if your low pressure pump is worn and allowing excessive drainback, it can take an extremely long time to fill. Combine this with the fact that the injectors will not fire until the reservoir is filled and the high pressure oil system has been sufficiently pressurized (I believe 4-500 PSI is required) can make it near impossible to start without correcting these conditions. Also, this means the engine must crank fast enough that the high pressure oil pump produces sufficient pressure, as it's driven directly from the geartrain. In either case the computer will not throw a diagnostic code because the sensors themselves are accurately measuring what they are designed to. Cat and international HEUI injected engines are a different sort of beast to understand, but once you do, they can be quite potent and reliable early high pressure injection diesel engines
I have watched a lot of these powerstrokehelp videos, and this simple well down video just helped my son and I get a 99 7.3 powerstroke running. This truck was my brother's truck and last fall as it got cooler the truck wouldn't start. He bought a 2021 Ford and sold me his older 7.3 to me. My son and I replaced the low pressure oil pump in about 2hrs, and it starts and runs great now. Going to do some of the fuel mod grades Bill has shown in some other videos. Good teacher, and appreciate his veterans support
Praise the Lord for Bill and all his help over these years. RIP, my friend.
Thanks Bill. Excellent video. No bs. Straight to the point. Love my 7.3s!
Thank you again for helping us out with our bad ass 7.3’s !!
You make me want to keep mine forever when I watch your videos, when sometimes I get down on myself because my girl’s suspension is so damn rough and I see folks out there with new trucks
Just remember for the cost of one monthly payment of those brand new shiny trucks with all their useless cameras and whatever you could dang near overhaul the entire suspension on your 7.3. I love my 7.3 515k still going strong
@@wcpportfolio If you have a 7.3 DON'T EVERY TEST DRIVE A NEW TRUCK, AND REFUSE YOUR BUDDYS LETTING YOU, I still have my 7.3 but I now drive a 6.7 because it's soo much more refined and powerful and effortless when towing, plus the brakes are so much better.
@@7.3powerstroke6 oh I agree they’re lovely .. I drive plenty of brand new fleet trucks at work but I’m not the one paying for them 😄
Don't do it I did and it's been about 13 years of kicking myself
Bill, you are always so helpful, and I love your stories to break up the RUclips PowerStroke classes. It looked like the truck had over 300k on it already, so it’s just getting broke in 😀
I'll tell you what I have watched a lot of RUclips videos about working on vehicles and this guy by far explains everything thoroughly and simple. And his happy-go-lucky attitude really helps the stress level thank you so much sir I guess your name is bill God bless you.
Love my 97 7.3, she has 428,000 miles and no glo plugs, injectors or Hipop! She still cranks well in cold, I just Waite about 15 to 20 seconds after lite goes out, she fires right up! I know I'll have to do something sooner or later but for now she's OK! Plan on driving her for another 22 years if possible!
After spending 10 grand at a technical school, you'll be lucky if anything remotely close to what this man just taught....is shared in a classroom.
Thank you PSH!! 🇺🇸 🇺🇲
Tech school grads are no more than dealer employees called parts changers lmfao....ask a Chevy guy to fix a BMW or a Ford tech to fix anything the first time lmao
@@christopherparis6841 and then ask them to repair anything that doesn’t require proprietary diagnostic tools. But that’s just on average. There are some exceptional young folks out there who can fix anything but they’re a challenge to find.
So nice to see a good Ol’ 7.3 video. Thanks Bill!
thoroughly enjoy any and all series getting put out...just bought a supposedly dead 01 F350 7.3...getting it back to a stock config as much as possible for a baseline diagnostic...your videos are extremely helpful...experienced various gas motor repairs but limited in diesel...love it...thanks
Great info Bill, makes me sick that I traded in a very nice 2000 f-350 4x4 in 2005 because my Ford dealer kept replacing fuel injectors at 480.00 each, and could not find the issue, this had to be the cure.
I love my old loud 7.3 . Hasn’t let me down ever in 17yrs. They can keep the new fragile diesels.
7.3l video and Bill doing all of the work while video recording. This is right up there with the video you did with a black eye. An instant classic 👍🏼
Great video Bill. Always enjoy the content. Especially when a 7.3 is involved 😉
Seen this dozens of times. Most dealers throw injectors and icp sensors along with the occasional high pressure pump. Great video Bill from one tech to another!
Don't forget to change the check ball and seat. And yes there is a check ball. It's in the front of the block behind the timing cover on the left side of the center gally. It's the pressure relief valve for the lpop
Yep I was going to say the same thing..especially if you have no start when truck is on an incline
I just found out that Bill passed away on October 10th
Thank you for all the infor you you provide in your vidoes on the 7.3, I'm a fairly new owner of an 01 dinosaur, but it's been the best dinosaur I've owned over the years and plan on keeping it until vehicles fly.
Great video! Love my 7.3's! Right now both of my trucks are running 7.3's from CoPart wrecks. The high mileage one is hard to start cold. I replaced the glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo while the cab was off the truck and also verified the GP relay. I assumed it was low compression or stiction, but I'll have to check the oil in the HPOP reservoir to see if it's draining back thru the pump.
Here I am 6 months later watching this video again. The weather has been warm and the truck always starts when it's warm. Now, it's gotten Georgia cold again and my daily driver needs some help. I really need to see if this is the cause and fix it. I already have the Harbor Freight puller and can confirm that it really does work. One note: loosen the fan clutch BEFORE removing the belt or loosening the fan shroud. Makes it easier. As I spin off the fan clutch, I keep one hand on the blade from the front side of the shroud so when it comes loose you just lift the fan and shroud together without damaging the radiator.
Wow, I’m surprised how easy that pump was to change. I figured you’d have to remove the front cover and oil pan.
yep very good desing.....7.3 is a wonderful engine my 2 cents
I was expecting as much labor involved as dismantling a Moose or Bear.
I've done this job a fair amount of times myself and I still watched this from start to finish to learn from the best. Great video and I really love the little facts on top of the main content
Thanks for this video Bill..I've got two of these 7.3s still working and will keep this in mind if they become stubborn starters.
320K Miles and its has began, one thing that helps starting until you have time to change the oil pump is to restart it cold in evening after running it for the day. Then the next day your starter will certainly thank you for not making it work to hard. Starter is also new since 75K. Cold (29-32) morning start can test your batteries. Still gets 14 mpg same as at 70K when bought truck.
PowerStrokeHelp as always the Best of the Best !!!
Loving these recent 7.3 vids. Thanks, Bill!!!
There is a reservoir above the HP oil pump to feed it oil during start up. There is a ball check valve in the passenger head that feeds the reservoir. Normally the LP oil pump does not need to feed the reservoir during start up. I would check that the ball check valve is not leaking, causing the reservoir to drain down.
The other potential cause of hard start due to lack of high pressure oil is a leaking poppet valve on one of the injectors. If an injector O Ring wears out, debris can get into the poppet valve and cause it to leak.
Hmm contradictory info. He just said the opposite but you’re very specific. Let me ask you. Just bought a 99 7.3 dirt cheap for some body parts for my 02 7.3 story was it got impossible to start in cold weather despite having starter and new HIGH pressure oil pump mechanic told him low compression not worth rebuilding engine on such rough truck. Not sure why high pressure pump was replaced if was just dead or an attempt at solving cold start. Anyway watching this thought maybe there’s life in that $1000 parts truck after all but then your comments dashed my hopes of getting it running w low pressure pump. Any insight appreciated.
Ya I mean that makes perfect sense... If that was true then you'd clearly not see any difference with him replacing the low pressure pump so imma call bullshit on your theory he just supplied you with truth and you're still to blind to see 🙈
The Check Valve (Ball, Spring) is on the Driver's Side Timing Cover area, 1996+
1994-1995, Check Valve is on the HPOP.
If the problem is bleeding HPOP Reservoir overnight, it's the Check Valve, Not LPOP!
If HPOP is not pumping up properly while running, then LPOP is the problem 👍
I always recommend your sight when it comes to the Ford Diesels trucks . Even how you test head gaskets , the caster shake , death wobble or what ever folks call it . Your sight helped me fix my friends 6 .0 egr cooler problem. I remember and passed on to my friends how you suggested on the oil change ect . Thanks for all you do . Jim
good to see this video! my 2002 has 434,000 miles on original oil pump and it takes a longer than usual time to start. thanks for sharing this!! I'll be installing a new pump on my ole faithful superduty. (and still running original oem stock injecters)
ive owned my 7.3 since new in 2001. To make a LONG story short, truck looks new in and out with 350+000. miles pulling 10k lb trailer toting a mini ex. Anyway I NEVER knew about this pump. Ill be damned. Shazamm. Mine is not hard to start but if it does i know another possible place to look to R&R. THANK YOU for this video. Hell you guys taught me a lot so far this is just another episode of knowledge
Thank you for this Sir. I've really enjoyed your videos. I am a steady customer of Archoil products now too!
Been having this problem. Just ordered the pump and some arch oil, been watching your videos for a long time. Thanks
Thank you Bill. I have learned so much from you. My Six liter runs great because I always do what you say. Thanks
Awesome.
Love learning about these trucks... This is priceless information... Currently learning about rebuilding the E4OD... Thanks for sharing...
Tip: in case you don’t have an impact or don’t want to remove the radiator, you can hold the flywheel with two vice grips and the use the puller with hand tools. Also the Melling instructions state to soak the pump in oil but I’m sure the grease is no problem. Thanks for the video Bill!
Very informative! I have been fighting a similar symptom with my 1996 F350 7.3L for a year. Last year in the Midwest on some cold days it would start right off, then let it set for a day and it would take a lot of cranking to get it started. I put new glow plugs in it and had the rely and low oil pressure pump checked checked, but that had no effect on curing the problem. Finally, a few weeks ago it started right off with temps in the teens, but all of the dash warning lights came on. I drove it a few blocks down the street to my auto service station. The starter was still running and they had to disconnect the alternator to shut down the engine. They replaced the rack in the steering column and now this truck starts consistently on the second revolution down into the low teens. I am wondering if the wires in the steering column were intermittently fouling up the relay or timing on the glow plugs. I had noticed that the column shifter (automatic) was getting a bit stiff starting last year and the cruise control would be intermittent. If the dash lights would not have all come on who knows how long it would have taken to find the problem. Last year during cold weather I would take it to the Ford garage and let it set over night. As it would be the truck would start just fine. But a few days later I would end up with these long cranking sessions to get it started at even 30 to 40 degree temps.
I hope his information is helpful.
I just bought a 1996 F-250 with a 7.3 yesterday. It is my first diesel truck. It has 180,000 miles and long cranks before it starts. I thought it was just the fuel system because I had no idea about the oil pressure controlling the injectors. Thanks for the info.
Wow thank you so much for this video. I have a 2002 with 30K mile on it and I think I read the odometer on your truck to have 130+K miles on it. Probably will not need this video for a while but now I know how to do the job. Thank you for your time to come out with the video
I'm pretty sure it had like 313K miles on it. I am almost to 500,000 miles on mine, but diesel has gotten so expensive it's hard to justify just driving it to try to hit half a million miles now.
Im impressed!!!
You learn something new everyday!
If you ever start teaching classroom, and hands on.. besides your videos.
I'm enrolling..!!!
Shocked to see some ‘ole 7.3 content on here 💯👍
The old 250 I recently bought has pretty much exactly this cold start symptom, and I was starting to notice that it wasn't really about cold but rather how long it had sat since last run - if it's been started within 8 hours or so it kicks right over. I just checked it and the complete no start transitioned to trying to kick over right when the oil pressure on the cluster goes up after several cranks, it then runs REALLY rough for 10-15 seconds before suddenly smoothing out and running great. This fits in really closely with what I've been observing and gives me another thing to investigate.
Thank u bill from powerstroke help your one of my favorite RUclips people
Also helps to lookup torque specs for the balancer and any accessories for more peace of mind
I understand it calls for the old green coolant but if a late model 7.3 then it can take ELC and you don’t have to monitor which almost everyone doesn’t do properly. Seen cavitation multiple times because coolant wasn’t properly maintained.
Thank you for the informative video as always. Can you please put in the description what's needed for this job? Thank you.
Thank you Bill. One guy told me I was going to have to put a new plate on behind the oil pump. He said scratches in that plate allowed the oil to leak out of the reservoir. Mark of a mechanic: blood at 7:16. I wear leather gloves now when I can.
No torque on the harmonic balancer bolt?
Nice...How fortunate that truck owner is.
Diagnosis is the hardest part of any profession.
Great video but there is a check ball in the system which almost never goes bad but possible for crap to get stuck in it to keep it open. It’s in the block on the driver side behind The front engine cover reservoir and SIDE OF pump. The Allen head bolt is accessible from the top. Need to remove some stuff out of the way and drain the reservoir first. A bad high high pressure oil leak can also drain your reservoir like a stuck open IPR.
Great information! I have the long crank every time i start it unless i shut it off and then start it back up immediately. Injector orings didnt fix it, lpop didn't fix it. What are the high pressure oil system parts that can cause the resevior to drain? Im goind to do the ipr valve and that check ball this week.
That's a right-hand thread on the fan clutch, not reverse...
Thanks for another great vid Bill !
Kinda an ole school video but .... Bill is the school master in any day. I love my two 7.3s. Give me simplicity in this f'nnn complex world! Thank you Bill! God bless you family and all.
I'm sure you have more "pro grade" tools but the testimony of knowing what you're doing over buying exspensive tools is amazing
My man you make the things look easy great job!!
Thank you!!!
This has to be my issue sir.
The Lord, is good.
God bless you.
I am a 2002 F350 XLT 4x4 3rd owner..no rust well maintained (Oregon) , she has over 200.000.00 miles and running great, You and your channel has helped me so much become my own Diesel Mechanic, Thank You sir....Q: thoes coolant bottles..where can i get a good make ..so many bad comments on ordering them and failing...do you have any good used or ?? and what also is a recommended water pump...i want whats right not a fancy color or name. BTW i did replace the cap you recommended in a previous video.
Nice to know, my 400k mile truck 7.3l runs fine but I will be sure to take care of this if it ever starts getting hard to start. She just keeps going.
Awesome video. I just stumbled across your video and just so happens that my truck is starting to do this exact issue. Thank for sharing.
RIP Bill
Another reason for this to happen (probably more common than a low pressure oil pump failure) is failed injector O-rings. My truck had these symptoms. Many of the O-rings had failed which required a long crank to build up enough oil pressure to operate the injectors.
Sweet. Thanks for the share sir. Keep that one on the back burner!
There is an anti drainback checkball in top of block that has oring under cap the checkball keeps hpop reservoir from draining.
Thank you for this concise video. I don't even own a 7.3, but really like videos like yours.
Might be doing this to mine soon, just as soon as I figure out how coolant is getting into the oil pan. If it's the front cover, then I'll be replacing the front pump as well. Thanks, Bill.
Most likely either head gasket or injector cups.
Oil cooler gasket
Thank you so much. You should be an auto tech teacher!!
Great video. Original owner of 1996 7.3, 300,000 miler that currently won't start. Going to have to investigate this. Thanks...I never knew.
Pretty cool to see bill out there willing to do some hands on work and tel each us for free at the same time.
I did all of Bill's 7.3 Power Mods on my 7.3 6 years ago, and she still PURRS!
Great video bro love the 7.3 content
Algorithm bump: thanks for the help and the commentary with a twang.
As usual great information Bill
Awesome Bill, great information.
I miss my old 7.3. But then MN/ND winters come around and I appreciate my 6.7. Twice the stock power of a 7.3 and starts every time no matter how low the temperature is, as long as it has good batteries and number 1 diesel.
4kw highspeed denso starter and good 5w40 diesel oil makes a huge difference in winter
@@jamesringler987 n
I’ve used archoil 9100 on every 7.3’s,one of my trucks have over 700k miles on it still going strong
These motors are dam near bulletproof. I have over 470,000 miles on my 2001 Excursion. You take care of it and they will last.
Great video man! Long live the 7.3
The best ford motor, 7.3 is a beast, never die, 💯❌💯👌
Thanks, Bill. Good stuff.
How about slide a piece of card board down against the radiator before removing the fan clutch ?
Good to see ole bill working on 7.3s again I know he likes the 6.0s a lot and there great but a 7.3 and Bill is just a perfect fit
Thanks for the video 📹, about the 7.3 cranking !
Sometimes I feel like I should buy a bunch of extra parts before this stuff is not available other than some duralast junk.
I keep extra sensors and lines in the truck now but I feel like I should stock critical parts for the future.
3:24 has me concerned. From a couple of oil changes ago I’ve been running T6, when you said not to use synthetic oil I almost shit my pants. Is it a problem switching back?
Why couldn't someone tap into the plug there at the top of the upper reservoir and run a feed line with check valve in from the oil pan so Every time you go to start the truck it pushes oil into it while you're waiting for the glow plug light to turn off?
You made a comment saying not to use SYNTHETIC oil in the 7.3.. Why is this? I have run T6 Rotella for about 7 years in my 2003 7.3..
Even if he doesn't answer...when he speaks I WOULD LISTEN. Change it out to dino oil
Agree 💯 on the cleaner. That one step can save you thousands of dollars if you get dirt or foreign materials is side your oil gallery of the engine!
Thanks be to Jesus for men like Bill and DT Ron for explanation of 7.3 and 6.0 repairs!
I would recomend lubriplate not redn tacky thats not the greateast to be raming into bearings and hpop systems lubriplate does same thing and its ment for bearings wen you assemble and engine thoughts on this ?
Thank you so much for this video!! I have one of these dinosaurs yet and it's awesome to see you working on one!
Mines bout to cross 200k.
I did a cylinder contribution test and codes came up for cylinder 3 and 8. Truck runs good and has good power tho. I'm fixin to haul a tractor with it this weekend or sometime soon.
Could injector seals cause them codes? Seems like I have just a slight bit more blowby then I use to
I cut my fan shroud in half putting back that fan is so much easier
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing!
I need a video of this man working on a 12 valve 🔥
Great work, information and video. Have a 99.5 F350 7.3, with 277000 miles looking for a scan tool but one that will all the vehicles we have. What do you recommend.
Great and very helpful info here. Curious if this is the problem, is there enough oil dropping back to show up as too much oil on the dipstick?
'01 7.3 dually. on cold mornings around 40f, mine turns over and over with no start. I always hear a relay clicking under dash area behind dash at ashtray/floorboard area. When relay stops clicking, she'll start.
If my 02 7.3 cranks for a long time in the morning is clicks too when trying to start. That probably because the battery voltage is going to low while cranking and relays and what not are kicking in and out. How old are your batteries?
@@Tempshobatteries are most likely just out of warranty. I think you are correct though, once I put a quick charge on it, it starts faster.
Not gona lie i love tbis channel
I've got the long cranking cold starts , never thought to look at the oil pressure on dash . Now if my motor wasn't currently locked up from previously starting it . Began to crank over and stopped . Now to pull injectors , yippee.
I think my truck may have same issues. 2000 7.3 550 with just under 200k. Been playing hell and it still is having issues starting. Was thinking could be lower in engine like this. Though got some work done all around. May run great after I do this.