7.3 hard start or even no start due to no pressure, leaky o-rings, bad hpop pump or bad IPR Valve?
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- 7.3 hard start or even no start due to no pressure, leaky o-rings, bad hpop pump or bad IPR Valve?
Some information I learned after posting this video, thanks to (NoRalPh on the powerstroke.org forum).
"The IPR is Always OPEN and bleeding-off some of the pressure the HPOP is making. To increase pressure when needed it CLOSES and reduces the amount of bleed (when you turn the key on, and the IPR is being commanded to 14%, it is Open for 86% of the % cycle from on-to-off). Also the default the PCM sets for the IPR when the ICP is unplugged is much higher than 700psi, it usually reads between 21-2300." - NoRalPh
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Where is this other video?
Here: ruclips.net/video/0jiJaZHTdRE/видео.html
@@1D10CRACY thanks
Dude, I have watched hours upon hours of 7.3 videos through the years. Yours is easily the top channel I will come to from now on. You explain things so easily. I am no mechanic but I work on all my own equipment. You make it much easier to understand 👍💪
Thanks simply good
Awesome tech advice. I bit the bullet and opted to buy new injectors, new fuel pump, fuel tank pick up delete (sumped it), new IPC & IPR, new HPOP for this exact malfunction because my 7.3 has 250k on it with all stock parts. Three months worth of mortgage payments for these parts but I should be good for another 200-250k once I receive the parts and install them.
I literally made a youtube account just to tell you how great this video is. So articulate and informative and you just keep pressing forward with rationality extremely quickly thank God!
WAW!!! You are almost as good sensei Diesel Tech Ron (RIP)... YOU EXPLAINED EVERYTHING VERRY WELL AND EXPLAINED ALOT QUICKLY. GOOD JOB.
Good vid and explanation of the operation -- couple of things to note tho -- the IPR is a dump for the high pressure pump oil flow, so it has to close (rather than open) to build pressure -- the other thing is there is no need to test each high pressure hose as they share a common inlet port in the pump, testing one with the other deadheaded is good enough. -- not a commonly used test on the 7.3 (for sure on the 6.0) is using air to test for high pressure leaks -- You are correct in mentioning that the IPR will be damaged by 12 v for longer than 30 seconds at a time -- you can use a 9 volt battery to close the valve longer with no damage to the valve coil -- the system uses 12 volts, but with a PWM output to control the position of the valve
I love a good running 7.3. Sounds like a _REAL_ Diesel.
No replacement for displacement
Great video, one of the most informative and easy to follow 7.3 videos I've watched !! Thank you !!
Your explanation is precise and to the point. One of the best videos I have watched of many. Just a great video! Thanks for sharing.
Yep. By far the best at breaking the whole operation of how the motor operates. Talk about helpful!!
Can't wait to see the injector tear down. thanks.
Probably the best video on RUclips not joking you explained everything really well .
Your speech skills are very good you explain your self very well and the content is superior to many other platforms.👍👍👍👍👍
Great description of 7.3 injectors and pressure problems, everything associated with hard & no start possibilities. The original hoses tend to leak, the ICP's (and pigtail) go out (I carry a spare) or work loose and leak. Seems weird that the injector leak fixed itself, definitely causes hard starts (seen it cause reservoir leak down overnight). I've been more concerned that leaking injector orings would leak oil into the cylinder and potentially cause a dangerous hydro lock scenario, what do you think? A good understanding of the injector operation (and leaks) is essential to keeping this motor running. Having the injectors rebuilt (incl new orings) solved my resv leak down problem, replacing the quick connect oil hoses with jic fittings and hoses got rid of the leaks, which can be a pain to figure out.
Thanks for this video. My skoolie is going through this right now. I appreciate you sharing this. My o rings aren’t leaking but my oil pressure sensor was full of oil and failing. Hopefully replacing that will help. Appreciate this video 🤙
Did it help? Tia
That's great vídeo .here i have these problema..left SIDE losses presssure from de Rail..it beggins to climb over 2000 PSI and turns down suddenly to 0. .rigt SIDE shows 3500 PSI...your video gives me now Lot of things to do dignose ir better
Thanks for the video👍 helped me figure that my problem was my fuel bowl harness, I made the jumper wire put 12v and fired right up👌👍
Which wire are you talking about?
Great video very informative very detailed very... you know what you're doing! Thank you!
Thankyou its good to know this as im looking to get a powerstroke soon cheers 👍🇦🇺
Good batteries are also important for the starter, not just for the obvious reasons, but because electric motors are designed to run at a certain voltage. Low volts of spec raise amps. High amps burn motors. And the cycle of breakdowns continues
Great video! I'm still diagnosing a crank no start. *1996 7.3 F250 4x4 Supercab, 318k miles, #4 injector recently replaced, all others are original.. I've replaced my vc gaskets and wiring harnesses, cps, icp, brand new adrenaline hpop and Ford Motorcraft ipr, I have irate diesel e fuel system reading 70 psi, and finally removed all 8 injectors and replaced all o rings and put shims on each injector....
All of that and I am still not starting due to a lack of high pressure oil...
I've connected a hydraulic gauge to my hpop and getting ~3k psi, but when reconnecting the hpop lines to each head, then connecting the gauge to each head separately, I'm only reading ~100 psi on the passenger side oil rail and ~200 psi on the driver side oil rail....
I've removed the valve covers and cranked, but I don't see oil spilling from any injector... would I be losing pressure at the injectors even though I can't see any oil coming out while cranking??? I'm at a loss, not sure how to positively identify this problem/solution....
Last thing I want to do is buy a set of injectors and still have a crank no start/lack of high pressure oil issue.
Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
I’m having the same problem I changed my hpop and my truck won’t start did you figure out what ur problem was
@@jamesmclellan8768 I'm wondering if maybe your oil rail drain plugs are leaking past? I recently changed injectors and am having a similar problem. I've read to only use orings from Alliance but that seems like a stretch. I'm going to try an air test
Hey Ryan, I realize this post is a couple years old, but was wondering if you ever figured out what your problem was. I'm having similar issues with my 7.3 at the moment. Thanks, if you can help any at all it'd be appreciated.
Very informative, nice pace. Thank you!
Great explanation of each part. Thanks.
Man, that was a great video..thanks.
HELP!!!!
Great video...thank you it helped a lot...
I took off the I.c.p. to check hpop pressure...3 second crank and it just oozes...but the truck will run🤦...i don't understand...it chugs at idle....new ipr valve....rebuilt ipr....and still...it ran fine with a few hiccups before I rebuilt the ipr....and fuel bowl....
I have no computer only volt meter...12.5v and reversed 12.8v on the ipr..
8omms ipr....
New icp...great continuity...
Not sure of volts...i will check tomorrow but I don't think that matters right now...
Any ideas...i have done my research...ive posted on Facebook for help....all I get is get a regular job and pay a mechanic...i own my own company but the truck is broke😭....thank you
This is a great video. Point on best I have watched by far.
I have a major issue with my truck. I have changed everything I can think of except my hpop. My truck runs poorly, then don't start. Unplug the ICP sensor and it will run. It throws me a secondary fuel pump circuit low code.
Things I have changed
Icp sensor
Ipr sensor
Frame rail fuel pump
All 8 injectors
Turbo
Oil pressure sensor
Relays for both pcm and fuel pump
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Did you ever figure it out?
Did you figure it out?
Lower oil pump
Damn great vid.
great video, thank you so much for the video
Great vid sir !
Wonderful job 👏
I have a 7.3 and I am interested in how to fix the injectors on it.
Good video, my 2003 7.3 start with ether and the rest of day runs fine, but 2 or 3 day not runs again 😓
Should I see oil coming out of the ports while cranking the engine over and no start? Juat cranking it I have no oil in the top end. As in pulled the valve cover and no oil anywhere
Awesome video bud! I really enjoyed the video and education, super job Thumbs Up! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Great vedeo and great explanation 👍 👏 you have a 1more subscriber cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 👍 😀
also as a follow up, I just bought a quality idm - the thing cranks beautifully, and I get a great oil pressure reading, or at least looks to be decent. I noticed your oil guage didn't do anything. I don't really know what else I could be looking at given my oil pressure while cranking.
I did the dead head oil pressure check on my truck and only get 135 psi cranking on it with the starter. Would that signal the HPOP being bad?? The truck died at an intersection the last it ran. Help please 🙏🙏
That’s good information ran
Mines doing the exact same thing
Went through lpop and all
Did this fix your problem
Amazing! Do you have a shop and if so where? I’m looking for a good diesel mechanic in Orange County CA area.
How did you adapt your Gauge to the hose? Also how did you make the adapter to Deadhead the other line?
My 7.3 f50 has a huge puddle of oil on it. First time working on a diesel
Nice explanation , When you mentioning "oil pressure sensor ", "high pressure oil pump", "oil pressure". , here is my question : when you are using the "OIL" word , it means "engine oil" or "diesel fuel " ? In order words is the OIL term another way to name Diesel ? Injector rails runs oil inside to feed the injectors (unlike gasoline engines) is that engine oil or diesel fuel . Sorry for my silly question , but I am new on owing a diesel engine, trying to figure out how it works
Thank you in advance
When I use the term oil, I really mean engine oil. The injectors are actuated using oil pressure.
It's a cam position sensor. Not crank.
Right.
hi you explain many things!! my excursion 7.3 started really hard! but after a while stopped! when the engine is running looks like some cilinder not working! he stayed parking long time ago! the last time I driving everything is ok 👌 I replaced a fuel filter and still the same and now not started!! when I opened the fuel filter looks like the level fuel is lower! any one passed a same sintomas? i apreciat if someone can help me! cheers from Norway
.Har prøvd å ringe deg. Det er heller ingen mulighet til å sende deg en PM.
@@helgaairhead hi you have a same problems?
@@jorgekazachek6514 No Mate I do not - I live in Norway and work as a 7.3 tech and tried calling you in order to get you some help. The problem you describe can get real deep fast or can just be a simple thing like UVCH coming appart. To me starting doing diag without knowing your capability and understanding of the HEUI system and also not knowing the state of your vehicle - could be a very time consuming rodeo. Send me a PM with you ph number and I will give you a call.
@@helgaairhead RH85488
@@jorgekazachek6514 Mate - that's the plate numbers - is this your phone: 94xx21x16
So if I apply 12v + dc to my IPR the wire immediately gets super hot and I mean melting wire coating burning finger hot... That's shorted out correct? Meaning a bad IPR?
On a side note, this is my first diesel and I'm no good for but now I'm one. I learned more from you in this video than hours of watching other weirdos videos. So thanks and job well done. Keep on doing it!
I believe the IPR valve operates via Pulse Width modulation and that is why it is getting hot when you directly power it with 12v. I'm also afraid you may have burnt out your IPR valve by doing so. You may want to replace it and see if it fixes it. Thanks for the nice compliment BTW.
@@1D10CRACY the truck became sluggish while driving and died. After an hour or so later it restarted. Very quickly it began to lose power and sided again. Since then I have only gotten it to start and immediately die. FOR OHMS OUT AT 10.6 WHICH IS WITHIN SPEC. My wife was pinched and I didn't notice it. Keep in mind in on the side of the road day 3 and 12 hours from home. With wife and dog, so this isn't fun anymore. So I applied the 12v with the ipc removed from the left head also I crank the truck over and oil trickles out. Not as expected for said 20-3k oil pressure. I'm in belief that my hpop has crapped out. And other suggestions before I spend 600$?
You can unplug the icp sensor and the truck should still run. It won't run right, but it will run. The icp sensor tells the computer what signal to send the IPR and the IPR controls your pressure. So technically if the IPR valve is working, you should have pressure. If you have not replaced the IPR valve yet, I would try that first. I also wouldn't replace the hpop without looking under the valve covers for oil leaks around the injectors. The o-rings are prone to failure and eventually leak bad enough the engine will fail to run.
@@1D10CRACY On the Injection Pressure Regulator or IPR . I have had the coil go bad to where the truck will start and run and go maybe 2 miles to 20 miles and the coils resistance gets high enough that it drops out. Let the truck sit for a couple hours and the coil cools off and it will go back to working for awhile. I was pretty frustrated with this truck as it left me stranded 5 or 6 times on the side of the road. Went to get it with a trailer and it would start right back up like nothing was wrong with it till the coil would get heat into it again.
I'm having cold start issues I checked all the glow plugs injectors are all good, runs perfectly after it starts, has new batteries HELP
Help, I changes my LPOP bc it was leaking. I put the truck back together and it dies. I filled up the hpop reservoir and tried again and same thing. Is there a correct way to prime the system?
My truck has no power in the cold morning. I have it plugged up and let it warm up. Still go to take off and has no power. Any idea
So is there not supposed to be oil dripping off the bolt in between the springs?
No oil psi on dash have changed ipr IPC fuel gauge etc injectors only have 4k miles . Hpop is full. Any way lpop is bad?m motor only has 50k on rebuild
Can i ask did the new injector orings fix this long start problem completely
The long start problem is gone, I suspect the shim kit took care of that problem.
@@1D10CRACY
Thanks for replying
I take it you did an o ring change also correct
I did, I did the orings and while I was there I did the shim kit. The truck runs and starts like it should.
What would you direct your attention to if it starts and, for about 20 minutes, show 1,000lbs at idle and 2,000lbs at 24,000 RPMs but dies the moment I either come to a stop or start a hill? The engine responds to break fluid; otherwise, it has to sit and cool down for a while to go back to normal.
1996 T444E. Working on it now. Any response is appreciated!
What did you use for a scan tool? My truck is doing the same thing. Once in a while it will start and idle fine for a bit but then die. IPR, CPS and ICP are new
A mini Blue tooth ODB2 reader, an android phone and an app called FORScan. amzn.to/3hVHhVr
@@1D10CRACY ty, I have the obd2 device and an android but I was using the torque app and it tells me little to nothing. Appreciate the info Sir.
Mine wouldn't start but turned over. Two new batteries and it fired right up. Both batteries must be good or it can't crank and support starting systems at once.
Correct! The computer starts to fail just under 9.5 volts and weak batteries can have a pretty bad voltage sag while cranking the starter.
Have u try Archoil. Heard it works all some in the7.3 and 6.0L.
I got a 2000 ford f250 with the 7.3 mine cranks but wont turn on only with starting fluid what you think it might be?
Could be clogged screens in the tank, a bad lift pump, hpop failure, ipr valve issue, a bad ICP sensor or even faulty orings in the injectors. The good news is the 7.3 is super easy to troubleshoot. The bad news is you need to troubleshoot and not throw parts at it.
@@1D10CRACY damn that sucks. Thank you brother ill see what i can do
Could bad springs cause stalling?
cam position sensor
Isn't fuel going down into your oil pan and mixing with the oil?
The leak is a high pressure oil leak, not a fuel leak. Its one of the top orings, so the oil is leaking into the valve covers. These injectors are hydraulically actuated using oil pressure. So far I do not have a diesel leak, or at least I hope not.
@@1D10CRACY Cool. Got it. Thanks.
I’ve been having a problem with my 03 7.3 getting a rough idle only when hot. Does not smoke. I was thinking it’s injectors. It’s got 202k original everything.
Sounds like injector seals. Did you find the problem?
Check the injector harness
What scan tool do you use? Mine just shows no stored codes
Forscan on Android.
What kind of scanner can I buy to check the pressure if the hpop thanks
And elm327 obd2 dongle along with ForSCAN (for Android) will do it. amzn.to/3qDrEno
Did this symptom throw any codes?
It did not. It ended up being leaky orings on the injectors.
New o rings new hpop and now won’t start
👍💯
If it was a o ring in the hoops you would have a bad oil leak