@@rq38hq55 junkyard ones are decent depending on the vehicle. I got a used one for like 20$ in decent condition (I visually inspect it before installing/removal)
Love you talking to me (us newbies) like we are 5 years old. I knew nothing about this 2000 7.3 engine, now i have been able to replace injector cups and everything elseshort of total rebuild. Engine runs like new
Lol enjoyed this and following. My first 7.3 and love this truck. I ordered the new wire harness and IPR. I was in the middle of a 3 lane highway at a light yesterday and truck stalled and would not start. While waiting for AAA. A guy pulled in front and waived me over from the sidewalk and he pulled me off the road. A few min later I tried to start and it started. I called my neighbor who has all 3 gen 7.3 trucks . He said, sometimes you can just unplug the ICP and get home so i unplugged it and it had oil on the terminal. He said the voltage could’ve been disrupted causing the truck to stop. Anyway, he mentioned changing a few other parts, including the wire harness, cam positioning sensor and IPR. Looking forward to reviewing your videos. Thanks
Same thing happens to my 7.3. Starting up in the morning, It runs for about 20 miles and then dies. After about 10 minutes, it starts for a few minutes and then dies. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. I've been towed twice. I am going to change out al the fuel system sensors.
Thx much for your excellent channel. I will not touch my 2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 without checking your channel. Excellent info, simply stated. Followed your instructions on rebuilding my IPR. Engine more responsive and the hesitation is eliminated.
I'm a believer , great information , just picked up a IPR at a Whopping $324.49 and the ICP was all oily inside so I figured I'll do that one to . I do have my concerns about the wiring . I am a non talented electrician . I usually make smoke , sparks or fire , of course not intentionally . But I will also look into a wiring harness being this truck has been butchered . I know what your thinking , maybe I should have looked at the wiring first . Long story short , I think I might be an idiot with a very low iq. I hope I spelled that right . .... Thank you for the information . I think I can start my journey with my newly acquired non starting 7.3 Now .
Another thing to add there is a serious counterfeit issue with IPR for ford 7.3. Online you can get 7.3 IPR, oil pressure sensor and pig tails for under $50 there's a 100% chance they will be counterfeit. They may even come in what looks like an OEM bag. Look at it closely, it'll have errors such as instead of "trademark" it'll say "trademart". If you got one, it's counterfeit and will have rather questionable performance. If it works at all. Just a heads up. That shaft the coil sits on the IPR is a relatively thin walled tube. It can be easily bent, if you slip, or even drop a socket on it. If that happens there's a high likelihood the IPR is shot. I've straightened them out by disassembling it successfully, but it's not easy.
Clint you have amazing content and have been a massive resource to me. I have three 7.3 work / welding trucks and you've helped me keep them on the road. one of my trucks has had a romping cold start problem I've been trying to solve for over a year and a half now. I am at my absolute wit's end with this truck. I am sure you are a very busy guy but I was hoping I could get in contact with you to discuss the issue. I have corresponded with a few 7.3 gurus as well as had a few look at it and no one seems to be able to figure out the problem, this issue seems to be quite unique but I have a strong feeling that a man of your knowledge base could solve the mystery with ease. Please let me know if you'd be interested in having a chat.
Clint has the Best Professional 7.3 videos on RUclips! My absolute go to for accurate and trustworthy information! Since you mentioned Forscan, RUclips is seriously missing a good breakdown of how to use forscan in-depth abilities strictly for the 7.3 It would be great if Clint did a playlist for it.
Thank you for what you do. I bought my first 7.3 3 weeks ago and it starts now after learning from your videos. I’m rewatching a rewatching trying to soak in the knowledge.
Ok here’s what I have to do to start my truck. I disconnect the ipr . I have a separate connection to connect up that has 12 v and ground crank the truck over it starts shut the truck off reconnect the truck harness after disconnect the jump . Now crank it over truck starts right up . Crank pressure 480-490 . Replaced high pressure pump, pcm , ipr etc . Now it runs great starts easy if I start it only for a minute every 5 hours. It’s only cold start . The relay and glow plugs and wires have also been replaced.
I recently replaced the lift pump and rebuilt the fuel bowl but when I unplugged the harness the plug for ipr was in terrible shape. I put it back together against my better judgement and had a no start. I now have a new ipr and harness sitting on the counter. Waiting to go in. What you didn't cover was the easy way to replace the ipr 😂 I'll probably end up pulling the fuel bowl back out unfortunetly. Not sure I want to buy a socket to destroy and use a punch like I've seen.
Great video,i have a crank no start,this all happened after i installed a new hpop and new valve cover gaskets and fuel bowl also new wiring harness and new ipr and icp truck wont start it was running and died goin down the road and wont start. I havent checked for injector blowout
Great video. I had a no start “hot” situation. Truck start cold ran good but on restart while hot it would crank and crank. I pulled IPR and 1 of 2 orings on the end was damaged. Replaced it and now starts at all situations. Was frustrated with all the time I messed around with checking different parts. Everything was checking out until I dug in and actually pulled the IPR and saw the little oring damaged.
Clint I'm having trouble with my 01 - 7.3.. Removed the IPR and cleaned it up a bit & reinstalled original IPR valve & it ran like the low mile engine it is (95,000 original miles).. Wow, that's helped out a lot..! However the next time i started the engine it reverted to idling rough surging & it stalled. I figure it will be worth taking the IPR apart one more time and cleaning it again -- just in case i missed something -- since it made such a big improvement the first time i tried. My question: what other sensors - or parts - might be affected by bad oil change intervals? BTW my idle issues began when I added Seafoam and left it in there far too long - probably causing my oil to become a viscous sludge? Okay Clint -- thanks for another well edited training video with in-depth explanations! 👍😀
Two times over the past year I have had my '03 7.3 (Excursion) shut off unexpectedly. Both times in a drive thru line, and both times it started right back up. No other issues or symptoms, and these events were probably 6 month sapart. This past week it shut down while my wife was driving it (probably going 30 mph thru a residential area). She was only about 5 minutes from the house, and it had not had a chance to get warmed up as she had just started it and left for the store. It would not restart right away. I was home so I went to meet her to see what I could do, but before I got there she tried it again and it started just fine. She made it to her destination, and I switched cars with her and brought the Excursion home (no problems). I am leary now to take it out until I figure out what might be wrong/failing. (It had just completed 1k mile trip the week before with zero issues.) I am going to load up the ForScan app and see what the beast will tell me. Anything I should be looking for a very intermittent issue? It's not a true crank no start situation in the traditional sense imo. Thanks!
clean the IPR also The IPR coil when hot test the coil the IPR video I have shows how to do that and Check hot the CPS I have a video showing that also
Might want to add a blurb regarding the differing IPR types (edge filter vs non-edge filter). Granted, the edge filter types were only use on 94.5 - 95 engines up to engine serial number 187099. Early edge filter IPRs have a flat closed end, while the later non-edge filter IPRs have an end that looks like a gun barrel. Cheers!
Hi, I've got a early '99 F250 and have replaced pretty much every sensor, rebuilt injectors, etc. The truck cranks and runs fine cold but as soon as it starts to get a little warm, it'll have a very slight fluctuation(surge up & down) in rpm where the needle barely moves but is noticeable. The ICP is a new aftermarket brand, no oil in connector, and pressures seem fine (around 700psi cold then slowly drops to around low 500's range warming up) but when I unplug the ICP before cranking and try to start, the truck will have a hard time starting, wildly surge if it does fire off, and have to hold the accelerator pedal down at least half way just to maintain 1500 or so RPM and as soon as I let off the pedal, the truck dies. I've watched a lot of videos and checked all the normal things and have no idea what else it could be. I'm also getting no CEL. I do have forscan and a programmer that shows the IPR, also an aftermarket brand and new, is around 25% cold then slowly goes down as it gets warmer. I can't seem to find anywhere else talking about the truck not starting at all with the ICP unplugged as the PCM should have a default parameter.
Did you figure it out? I had to get mine towed last week. My 2003 7.3 starts and runs fine when completely cold, then soon as it warms up, it sounds like it is only running on 2 cylinders with no power at all.. The engine light comes on, but can't get any codes. Any help appreciated.
During the rebuild, you didn't appear to disassemble the tip of the IPR (the area that has the spring in it). On the earlier models (94.5-95.5), isn't it especially important to take apart and clean because there's supposed to be a "filter" in there? Also, if you have a recommendation for a different OBDII interface, I would appreciate knowing what you think. The one referenced in the video is not currently available.
I don’t know much about these trucks but I do know I like international engines it’s hard to find a place to put a new oil pan gasket but she’s pretty mint for a grand
I did the fuel bowl delete for my 1997 OBS .The kit still keeps the Mechanical fuel pump. With the fuel bowl gone it makes getting to the IPR so much easier. One time the pigtail connection went bad ,intermittent no start issue . Easy access with no fuel bowl
I just got a 7.3 f350 Centurion and it's stalling but it fires right back up so I'm thinking it's this. I ordered one but I'm about to rebuild the valve that's in it now and see if i can get it running smooth while i wait for the part to come in. Might as well order a wiring harness as well.
Clint, I love your videos. I know you get tons of questions from viewers but I'm stuck with a unique situation. I have a engine vibration on my 95' 7.3 that goes away at a certain engine temp. Its been going on for sometime now. Idles fine but engine shakes at ambient temp goes away at about the "O" in normal then returns at operating temp. Anyone eles experience this. I'm pretty familiar with my truck and have tried everything. Good oil New CPS New fuel filter Pass buzz test Ohm injector harness all 3.0 All injectors make a noticeable difference when unplugged while running ICP unplugged idle gets worse No smoking Fuel PSI at idle 40-50 PSI Sometimes hard starting but I'm due for batteries in this Phoenix heat.
Been troubleshooting wo use of obd. Cannot start it. Well over 500 psi oil the car gauge goes to bout 700 well above the 500 standard. Sounds like it catches but won't go. New ipr cheap but got the pressure. Icp seems bad as it's new but truck doesn't catch with it plugged in. Changed filters in tank, bout to change heater in bowl which seems unnecessary and also bowl filter
Only thing I missed is, what if a shade tree mechanic pulls the non-servicable plug out of the hpop never sees it and either it falls out or it rolls somewhere else in the pump. Either way this could cause a no start bad ipr read.
Hey Clint! Since you are the only guy I'll trust 100% of the way when it comes to the 7.3 I have a question for you. Just started my truck up and noticed an erradic idle. Saw it reflecting in my hpop gauge (spliced into the ICP sensor wires) after driving home and idling again, idle was smooth, however I could see the HP oil pressure fluctuating a little (but it sounds like that's normal) Recently replaced the IPR valve w/motorcraft a few months ago. Think it got something stuck in it?
I got rid of that steel nut and put a Real nut on and has NOT backed off since. I was having problems of that nut Always backing out and dropping off and dropping into the valley.
Hey Clint. If I traveled and needed some tools to repair something that might go faulty. What would you carry in the tool bag and what parts would you carry? Thanks for your input.
High Clint I have a quick question for you maybe a stupid question. So I am looking at buying a 1998 international that has the 444T engine which is basically the same as the ford 7.3 powerstroke Both made by Navistar. The truck I am looking at has a problem that it will start up but won,t stay running. Will the Test you said to do be a good indicator follwing the ordered you laid out be a good cause of the issue. Thank you for your time sincerely, Brad
Thank you Clint Another very informative video If it is not a problem can you please tell me where you are physically located besides U tube Again thank you very much and have a great day
Wen I’m full throttle and go throw the gears I get 65% ipr duty cycle an throwing a p1211 icp reading good no oil in my icp so do u think it the ipr I think it by watch the pids on my edge cts2 and truck starts right up in cold weather and hot I’m in Cail I’ve have her for 2 years
@@MikeConner.akaRadio a hot tune the oem hpop can’t keep up that’s it took off the tune and she good so it the tune and it has 297k so time for a new pump soon to get more oil to the injectors
@fuelup7504 that makes since. When I'm full throttle, I'm only getting a reading of just under 40% on my IPR no higher. Using forscan live feed to see this. Trying to figure out what it should read under normal stop and go conditions as well as wide open throttle. Trying to figure out if mine is good or not, it just doesn't seem to have the power that it did. Ive just rebuilt the injectors had to replace 2 of them, new IDM, I dont have any boost leaks, tightened the waste gate a small smidgen, used to be able to power brake spool it up a bit and launch spinning the 37" tires it won't do that anymore just feels low on power. Oh and new IPR as well. Turbo inspected good, although forscan says my turbo speed is about 150 rpms, I know that's not right and don't know how it can even pick up my turbo speed or rpms in general.
I've found them at Tasca and other Ford parts websites. $250 and up. Anyone know if the Alliant part works the same? I think that's AP63402 for International. About $250 also.
I have an OBS 7.3 and randomly started have a mis and loss of power while driving. I pulled the lines off the lift pump and blew them out. Even put a feed line into a can of diesel and can’t get the truck to fire now. Fuel bowl stays empty unless I fill it manually. Do you think the lift pump would be the cause possibly?
Clint, need help! When the oil is below 160 degrees (start up or restarting after cooling down) the motor will run fine and then idle up 1000 rpm’s and settle back down. On Forscan I can watch the IPR build % until it reaches 40-42% and crash again. It does this until the oil heats up. I’ve changed out (with Ford parts $$$) ICP, CPS, EOT, IPR, UVCH, main harness, New Fuel pump, stage 1 HPOP, High voltage IDM, not sure where to go from here. Not sure why the IPR would cycle like that? Any help would be appreciated. Once the oil heats up, it’s a dream to drive. Thanks so much
Location, location :) So there's my 1972 F-250 behind ya A, at the 1:02 mark, But the the IPR ain't behind my distributor... A :) But! I found the Bugger hiding under my Fuel Bowl on the hpop on my 2000 7.3 Grocery Getter :)
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Really! Then please by all means use Big Blue's picture in your videos as you see fit! BTW... I keep spares in the glove box, ICP, IPR, and of course plenty of or inges :)
Hot no start issue today. 12 minutes it died. Crank no start. Hpop res. Full and fuel bowl full. Disconnect newer motorcraft ICP no difference. Wait 2 hours fored right up. Drove 6 miles and died again. Wait 2 hours and starts right up. This is definitely a pattern now. I read somewhere that the magnet solenoid on the IPR can fail with heat. I will ohm test when cold then ohm test once hot and failed. Any experience with a situation similiar?
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD waited for it to die again in driveway. About 12 minutes exactly. Slowly poured cold water directly onto IPR. Hopped in cab and it fired right up. New ipr ordered.
My 7.3 does the same routine. Starts up fine in the morning. Runs fine for about 20 miles and then dies. Wait about 10 minutes and it starts up for about two minutes and then dies. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. I have been towed twice. Going to change out cam sensor. Also, change out IPR and other related sensors.
I find Riff Raff diesel has great prices along with fairway ford there on ebay and both are oem We tried a really cheap one from Amazon its was like 280.00 it worked just fine we have had it as a test for quality in one of our trucks going on a year now no issues So in this case read all the comments for reviews The 280 dollar one had no negative reviews
so, is there different IPR'S for the 7.3? i ordered a motorcraft part number (cm-5013) and it has a different piston in it, and right at start have max oil pressure. pulled apart and compared to your video. looks identical, exept for the pison inside the barrel.
There is a early IPR that went into the 15 degree pump and the one I show is for the 17 degree pump If your is a OEM 17 degree it would look like the video You could have a knock off (fake OEM ) unless I see it this is the best info I can give
Hi I have been researching many of your videos since I recently purchased a 97 7.3. I have a long crank issue (approx 10 sec cold or hot). Low ICP pressure when cranking. Once I get it started, it runs fine. If I turn off the engine and then turn the key back to the run position immediately, it will start back up without the long cranking time. (even if I let it sit like this with engine off/key on for several minutes). By keeping power to the IPR this way, does it somehow prevent oil pressure from bleeding back to the pump from the heads? It doesn't make sense to me that putting the key back on would make my long cranking issue disappear
Injector o rings, pop the valve covers off and have someone crank the engine over . Check the injectiors to see if any oil is coming out the sides. Oil should only come out the oil deflectors on the injector
why did you not mention the rough idle and die until the engine warms up or if you leave it plugged in overnight? Mine would start and idle extremely rough and die for several start ups until the oil warmed or l left it plugged in over night-once it was warmed up it ran fine-I replaced the IPR and have not had any trouble since
Typically that could also be injectors slowly going out. Mine acted like that and I needed to really get on it to force the oil through the injectors and warm them up. Ended up taking out my forward clutches one day because it was not happy one bit.
Hey Clint , what's a good reputable place to order a Adreneline High pressure Oil pump for my '95 Powerstroke truck wood really appreciate your inpute thanks Carlos
I'm not Clint but the past two I've ordered have shipped from DieselSite, even though I ordered through a third party website like DieselPowerProducts. From what I can see they are the main producers of them, but you can order them through various other sites. I go through DPP cause they have a point system and vet discount.
Thanks Gage. I'm ready to order one , back when Clin mentioned them he stress to make sure to order from a Reputable place I'll do some checking and make sure do it right thanks again pal !
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks for the reply. I can’t find much information at all about this issue anywhere and I replaced the entire fuel bowl back in December 2020 with a Motorcraft one from RiffRaff. I’m pretty sure that would take the fuel spring and restriction sensor out of the list of possibilities. I guess the next step is a fuel pressure gauge.
Thanks. Great content. Maybe I missed it, but that tiny pin is hard to see. If you didn't say so, can you tell us which direction the tiny tiny end of the tiny pin goes?
go back to 2:09 and 23:05 this will give you a visual , The pin has a tapered tip that end goes into or direction to the HPOP The non tapered goes the direction of the solenoid
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you! I had found other images suggesting the same. And if one looks very closely, they'll see that the tip of the thin stub on that pin has a conical shape. One that would work to close that little micro-valve. All good!
I have a 97 f250 with the 7.3 power stroke diesel. I start it up it idles at between 600 and 700 rpmsand sounds good no miss I hit the throttle up to 2000 rpms with no problem no miss no smoke all day I can do it but when I drive down the road soon as I hit 40 mph the check engine light comes on and the runs rough and slow or no throttle the engine will stall if I don't shut the ignition off and I restart the engine runs rough and no throttle. If I turn the ignition off and restart it it runs great until I drive down the road and hit 40 mph and the same thing happens. Please help. PS I watch all of your videos and theres nothing on this problem.
I have a 95 e350 7.3l with very low power, very slow acceleration, all I've done is fuel filter relocation and electric fuel pump and regulated return. I have 65psi of fuel pressure, 600-1300 psi oil pressure, map is new from Ford with the hose, New Baro Sensor, ebpv delete, 4inch inch exhaust. Cel on for p1111 I don't know where to go from here.
Don't use sea foam in the oil on a 7.3 its to hard on the injector O rings This is what we have always used it slowly removes all the build up amzn.to/3r3dUYA 1 time a year normal 5k interval
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks man your awesome.. just started having some problems with my 7.3 today so I'm scanning your page to see it I can find the problem. Started randomly cutting off on me and jerking really bad when I hit the fuel pedal.
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I'm thinking it's the ipr the motor only has 160k on it so all the wires look good. I have a scanner you recommended coming in today I will download torque and see if everything looks good. You should do a series on problems and problem solving with all known 7.3 problems. And you should do a video on the 02 dashboard lights and what they mean couldn't find nothing on RUclips about it really.
My 1996 F350 isn't compatible with the ATS3 Monitor, would the OBD II reader work? I'm guessing no, because my truck is like OBD 1.5, it has the connector for OBD 2 but it has very few contacts.
You can have your set up brought up to obd 2 there are companies that do this We are working on a video to explain the hows and whats it will be part of our forscan how to video in the future
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you! I'll be watching for that video. You've convinced me with my build/restoration I need to just pony up and replace that 26 year old writing harness.
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD just put a new hpop new ipr new lpop new icp injector orings are about 2000 miles old changed the oil too what else could this be ?
My van runs fine but i have a code P1211 the only thing i noticed it does cracks a little more when starting than before do you know what could my problem be?
the best way is with a scanner or forscan or like apps ///7.3 IPC pressure at idle. Warmed up, your 7.3 diesel's ICP pressure at idle should be close to 480-500psi with about 8-12% IPR duty cycle.
Thanks, I have forscan and I have not found these symptoms talked about anywhere. Cold start at an idle, readings are 3650 psi at the ICP and the IPR. I have my 5VDC at the ICP and have found no open or shorted wires and nothing obvious wrong with a connector. I replaced the ICP and IPR and a new wiring harness on the way. I hate throwing parts at it. Maybe I bought a bad ICP?
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD @CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD 1 day ago go back to 2:09 and 23:05 this will give you a visual , The pin has a tapered tip that end goes into or direction to the HPOP The non tapered goes the direction of the solenoid
@Custom Works thanks! I’m getting 10.27 volts with fully charged battery’s at the IPR connector with key on engine off. It starts on then cycles duty cycle down to 4.6% at idle and injector pressure is 980 psi at idle (too high) and throws a check engine light. I’m going to replace the wires and then I’ll check the pcm output. Any other thoughts?
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD dude I wish I could talk to you about this ordeal. It's this guys baby brand new paint job $5000 and I just changed his IPR and goes straight to 5000 psi. Both parts brand new.
Hello, my name is jay and I work as a mobile diesel mechanic in California. And few weeks ago I was call out to check out a 1997 ford 7.3 For a stalling and hard restart sometime would not start till next day. And before I was called out I was told the truck was at two different shops trying to figure it out, and many new parts thrown at it ( all dealer parts ) icp,camshaft sensor, injector seals, hpop , ipr, fuel pump. I was able to duplicate the issues, to me I was almost 100% it was the cam sensor because it would almost stall then turn it self back on in a split second or just stall as if u turned the off the ignition With no sign of fuel starvation or oil. After it stalls it’s very hard to restart most of the time or sometimes it will fire right back up. But when it wouldn’t fire I’m not getting no high pressure build up past 190 psi, now I got 20psi on the low oil pressure side, oil reservoir full, fuel pressure at 55 psi cranking , when I put a pressure gauge in two the high pressure oil rail I can see it’s matching the scanner more less at 190psi. I got battery voltage at the ipr red wire with signal never dropping out. And from what I can see the computer seems to be sending the duty cycle the yellow/red wire when I hook up my power probe Duty cycle jumps from 20%-80%. If i disconnect the icp sensor still no start. What I do is ran a jump wire from battery to the ipr valve and truck starts right way. Now I do see that I’m getting a duty cycle on the yellow wire but I guess is there another way to confirm I might have a bad Pcm I hooked up a light bulb from the red to yellow wire to see if the tone of light will flash but when I connect the bulb in it stalls the truck. So please if u can get back to me on guidance on a proper diagnosis from here thank you
Check resistance in the wires... my power distribution harness is severely dry rotted causing many issues including not getting an accurate reading to the cps. Anything greater than .5 ohms replace the cable. I'd be much more comfortable at 0 ohms but I don't know what spec is for the system
Couple items , even the best parts can have issues it just happens you may need to get a replacement, I have found in several occasions you tripped into a bad plug or wire issue start it up and move the plug around and see if it goes away same with the wire slowly move it up n down around back and forth , also make sure its plugged in and the contacts are not over opened and making poor contact Give these a try
Riff Raff diesel, Fairway ford (ebay) and there are some cheap ones on Amazon stay clear of those But there are OEM quality ones on Amazon as well Just have to read the descriptions closely Some manual trans are not available but if you get the same year for automatic its just a matter of adding 2 extra wires to the extra temp sensor You just follow back your old harness and match the new harness and get the new pig tail and new wires Ya a pain but it is what it is
You should put all your material on a thumb drive or a DVD and sell it.. if RUclips ever goes away so does your material that we can get access to
I’d buy it
Me 2
@@oscarjones5773 this the Oscar Jones from mt Vernon
Same!
Me too
I have started replacing the engine harness as one of my routine fixes/repairs for my fleet of 7.3s. Clint, you made me a believer!
Where are you getting the Harness ? I have the OBS 1997 model .Original owner
@@rq38hq55 RiffRaff Diesel has Ford 7.3 harness in stock!
@@danielmcqueen1024
Thanks my friend ✅
@@rq38hq55 junkyard ones are decent depending on the vehicle. I got a used one for like 20$ in decent condition (I visually inspect it before installing/removal)
@@johndowe7003 thanks for the reply. Mine is for the OBS 1997 .Hard to find , but I’ll look a bit for it 👍
Loved the clapping sheeps!! Great personality, content, and sense of humor, Clint! Top channel on RUclips IMO!!!
Love you talking to me (us newbies) like we are 5 years old. I knew nothing about this 2000 7.3 engine, now i have been able to replace injector cups and everything elseshort of total rebuild. Engine runs like new
Incredible 7.3 videos, your explanations are awesome. My f250 is 99' cc xlt 4wd lb she's all stock and a daily driver. Thank you Mr. Allen
Lol enjoyed this and following. My first 7.3 and love this truck. I ordered the new wire harness and IPR. I was in the middle of a 3 lane highway at a light yesterday and truck stalled and would not start. While waiting for AAA. A guy pulled in front and waived me over from the sidewalk and he pulled me off the road. A few min later I tried to start and it started. I called my neighbor who has all 3 gen 7.3 trucks . He said, sometimes you can just unplug the ICP and get home so i unplugged it and it had oil on the terminal. He said the voltage could’ve been disrupted causing the truck to stop. Anyway, he mentioned changing a few other parts, including the wire harness, cam positioning sensor and IPR. Looking forward to reviewing your videos. Thanks
Same thing happens to my 7.3. Starting up in the morning, It runs for about 20 miles and then dies. After about 10 minutes, it starts for a few minutes and then dies. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. I've been towed twice. I am going to change out al the fuel system sensors.
Thx much for your excellent channel. I will not touch my 2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 without checking your channel. Excellent info, simply stated. Followed your instructions on rebuilding my IPR. Engine more responsive and the hesitation is eliminated.
I'm a believer , great information , just picked up a IPR at a Whopping $324.49 and the ICP was all oily inside so I figured I'll do that one to . I do have my concerns about the wiring . I am a non talented electrician . I usually make smoke , sparks or fire , of course not intentionally . But I will also look into a wiring harness being this truck has been butchered . I know what your thinking , maybe I should have looked at the wiring first . Long story short , I think I might be an idiot with a very low iq. I hope I spelled that right . .... Thank you for the information . I think I can start my journey with my newly acquired non starting 7.3 Now .
Another thing to add there is a serious counterfeit issue with IPR for ford 7.3. Online you can get 7.3 IPR, oil pressure sensor and pig tails for under $50 there's a 100% chance they will be counterfeit. They may even come in what looks like an OEM bag. Look at it closely, it'll have errors such as instead of "trademark" it'll say "trademart". If you got one, it's counterfeit and will have rather questionable performance. If it works at all. Just a heads up.
That shaft the coil sits on the IPR is a relatively thin walled tube. It can be easily bent, if you slip, or even drop a socket on it. If that happens there's a high likelihood the IPR is shot. I've straightened them out by disassembling it successfully, but it's not easy.
YES and its getting really maddening !
Clint you have amazing content and have been a massive resource to me. I have three 7.3 work / welding trucks and you've helped me keep them on the road. one of my trucks has had a romping cold start problem I've been trying to solve for over a year and a half now. I am at my absolute wit's end with this truck. I am sure you are a very busy guy but I was hoping I could get in contact with you to discuss the issue. I have corresponded with a few 7.3 gurus as well as had a few look at it and no one seems to be able to figure out the problem, this issue seems to be quite unique but I have a strong feeling that a man of your knowledge base could solve the mystery with ease. Please let me know if you'd be interested in having a chat.
Clint has the Best Professional 7.3 videos on RUclips! My absolute go to for accurate and trustworthy information!
Since you mentioned Forscan, RUclips is seriously missing a good breakdown of how to use forscan in-depth abilities strictly for the 7.3
It would be great if Clint did a playlist for it.
its in the making Time has been a premium lately
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I work 8 days in a 7 day week. I completely understand 👍
Another informative video! Great charts , you make this so easy to understand 👏
Keep up the great work 👍
Thank you for what you do. I bought my first 7.3 3 weeks ago and it starts now after learning from your videos. I’m rewatching a rewatching trying to soak in the knowledge.
Ok here’s what I have to do to start my truck. I disconnect the ipr . I have a separate connection to connect up that has 12 v and ground crank the truck over it starts shut the truck off reconnect the truck harness after disconnect the jump . Now crank it over truck starts right up . Crank pressure 480-490 . Replaced high pressure pump, pcm , ipr etc . Now it runs great starts easy if I start it only for a minute every 5 hours. It’s only cold start . The relay and glow plugs and wires have also been replaced.
Another QUALITY video. Thanks sir!
this is Guatemala 🇬🇹 bless you America 🇺🇸 nice video I, like 👍🏼 thank you so much
#1 subscriber and will follow you for ever 🎉🎉🎉🎉
I recently replaced the lift pump and rebuilt the fuel bowl but when I unplugged the harness the plug for ipr was in terrible shape. I put it back together against my better judgement and had a no start. I now have a new ipr and harness sitting on the counter. Waiting to go in. What you didn't cover was the easy way to replace the ipr 😂 I'll probably end up pulling the fuel bowl back out unfortunetly. Not sure I want to buy a socket to destroy and use a punch like I've seen.
"You're still here, it's over." Pretty funny outro.
Great video,i have a crank no start,this all happened after i installed a new hpop and new valve cover gaskets and fuel bowl also new wiring harness and new ipr and icp truck wont start it was running and died goin down the road and wont start. I havent checked for injector blowout
Great video. I had a no start “hot” situation. Truck start cold ran good but on restart while hot it would crank and crank. I pulled IPR and 1 of 2 orings on the end was damaged. Replaced it and now starts at all situations. Was frustrated with all the time I messed around with checking different parts. Everything was checking out until I dug in and actually pulled the IPR and saw the little oring damaged.
Sometimes in that situation pour ice cold water on ipr. If it starts bingo replace ipr.
Thanks for sharing
Clint I'm having trouble with my 01 - 7.3.. Removed the IPR and cleaned it up a bit & reinstalled original IPR valve & it ran like the low mile engine it is (95,000 original miles).. Wow, that's helped out a lot..!
However the next time i started the engine it reverted to idling rough surging & it stalled.
I figure it will be worth taking the IPR apart one more time and cleaning it again -- just in case i missed something -- since it made such a big improvement the first time i tried.
My question: what other sensors - or parts - might be affected by bad oil change intervals?
BTW my idle issues began when I added Seafoam and left it in there far too long - probably causing my oil to become a viscous sludge?
Okay Clint -- thanks for another well edited training video with in-depth explanations! 👍😀
Great video!
I support this content.
Thanks for sharing buddy! Love your tutorials! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Two times over the past year I have had my '03 7.3 (Excursion) shut off unexpectedly. Both times in a drive thru line, and both times it started right back up. No other issues or symptoms, and these events were probably 6 month sapart.
This past week it shut down while my wife was driving it (probably going 30 mph thru a residential area). She was only about 5 minutes from the house, and it had not had a chance to get warmed up as she had just started it and left for the store. It would not restart right away.
I was home so I went to meet her to see what I could do, but before I got there she tried it again and it started just fine.
She made it to her destination, and I switched cars with her and brought the Excursion home (no problems).
I am leary now to take it out until I figure out what might be wrong/failing.
(It had just completed 1k mile trip the week before with zero issues.)
I am going to load up the ForScan app and see what the beast will tell me.
Anything I should be looking for a very intermittent issue?
It's not a true crank no start situation in the traditional sense imo.
Thanks!
loose or bad connection in wire/connector at IPR CPS FUSE BOX or LOOSE FUSE this is where I would start in diagnosing
clean the IPR also The IPR coil when hot test the coil the IPR video I have shows how to do that and Check hot the CPS I have a video showing that also
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks! I'll be looking at it this weekend
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks I really appreciate your videos
Might want to add a blurb regarding the differing IPR types (edge filter vs non-edge filter). Granted, the edge filter types were only use on 94.5 - 95 engines up to engine serial number 187099. Early edge filter IPRs have a flat closed end, while the later non-edge filter IPRs have an end that looks like a gun barrel. Cheers!
Excellent info thanx cheers 😊
Hi, I've got a early '99 F250 and have replaced pretty much every sensor, rebuilt injectors, etc. The truck cranks and runs fine cold but as soon as it starts to get a little warm, it'll have a very slight fluctuation(surge up & down) in rpm where the needle barely moves but is noticeable. The ICP is a new aftermarket brand, no oil in connector, and pressures seem fine (around 700psi cold then slowly drops to around low 500's range warming up) but when I unplug the ICP before cranking and try to start, the truck will have a hard time starting, wildly surge if it does fire off, and have to hold the accelerator pedal down at least half way just to maintain 1500 or so RPM and as soon as I let off the pedal, the truck dies. I've watched a lot of videos and checked all the normal things and have no idea what else it could be. I'm also getting no CEL. I do have forscan and a programmer that shows the IPR, also an aftermarket brand and new, is around 25% cold then slowly goes down as it gets warmer. I can't seem to find anywhere else talking about the truck not starting at all with the ICP unplugged as the PCM should have a default parameter.
Did you figure it out?
I had to get mine towed last week.
My 2003 7.3 starts and runs fine when completely cold, then soon as it warms up, it sounds like it is only running on 2 cylinders with no power at all.. The engine light comes on, but can't get any codes.
Any help appreciated.
During the rebuild, you didn't appear to disassemble the tip of the IPR (the area that has the spring in it). On the earlier models (94.5-95.5), isn't it especially important to take apart and clean because there's supposed to be a "filter" in there?
Also, if you have a recommendation for a different OBDII interface, I would appreciate knowing what you think. The one referenced in the video is not currently available.
Hello Clint
Another helpful video.
Thank you sir.
I don’t know much about these trucks but I do know I like international engines it’s hard to find a place to put a new oil pan gasket but she’s pretty mint for a grand
Wow! Great video!
I did the fuel bowl delete for my 1997 OBS .The kit still keeps the Mechanical fuel pump. With the fuel bowl gone it makes getting to the IPR so much easier. One time the pigtail connection went bad ,intermittent no start issue . Easy access with no fuel bowl
Link for the kit? I wanna keep the mechanical pump but all the ones I find are electric ⚡️
@@carlitob3091 just do the tightwad mod and add your own fuel filters on the frame. Those kits are overrated
I just got a 7.3 f350 Centurion and it's stalling but it fires right back up so I'm thinking it's this. I ordered one but I'm about to rebuild the valve that's in it now and see if i can get it running smooth while i wait for the part to come in. Might as well order a wiring harness as well.
Clint, I love your videos. I know you get tons of questions from viewers but I'm stuck with a unique situation. I have a engine vibration on my 95' 7.3 that goes away at a certain engine temp. Its been going on for sometime now. Idles fine but engine shakes at ambient temp goes away at about the "O" in normal then returns at operating temp. Anyone eles experience this. I'm pretty familiar with my truck and have tried everything.
Good oil
New CPS
New fuel filter
Pass buzz test
Ohm injector harness all 3.0
All injectors make a noticeable difference when unplugged while running
ICP unplugged idle gets worse
No smoking
Fuel PSI at idle 40-50 PSI
Sometimes hard starting but I'm due for batteries in this Phoenix heat.
Been troubleshooting wo use of obd. Cannot start it. Well over 500 psi oil the car gauge goes to bout 700 well above the 500 standard. Sounds like it catches but won't go. New ipr cheap but got the pressure. Icp seems bad as it's new but truck doesn't catch with it plugged in. Changed filters in tank, bout to change heater in bowl which seems unnecessary and also bowl filter
New harness, almost new everything. Adrenaline hpop, etc as infinitum
Only thing I missed is, what if a shade tree mechanic pulls the non-servicable plug out of the hpop never sees it and either it falls out or it rolls somewhere else in the pump. Either way this could cause a no start bad ipr read.
Hey Clint! Since you are the only guy I'll trust 100% of the way when it comes to the 7.3 I have a question for you.
Just started my truck up and noticed an erradic idle. Saw it reflecting in my hpop gauge (spliced into the ICP sensor wires) after driving home and idling again, idle was smooth, however I could see the HP oil pressure fluctuating a little (but it sounds like that's normal)
Recently replaced the IPR valve w/motorcraft a few months ago. Think it got something stuck in it?
I got rid of that steel nut and put a Real nut on and has NOT backed off since. I was having problems of that nut Always backing out and dropping off and dropping into the valley.
Can you buy a rebuild kit for the IPR
Hey Clint. If I traveled and needed some tools to repair something that might go faulty. What would you carry in the tool bag and what parts would you carry? Thanks for your input.
Seconded. I’d buy an emergency “tool bag” for these
I keep a new ICP and CPS sensor in my glove box with the tools to remove them. Also tools to do a fuel filter change.
MASTER 7.3 MECHANIC, THANK YOU.
Where are you getting your wiring harnesses?
Great content, thanks for the hard work on getting this info out to us 7.3 owners
Try Riff Raff diesel.
Riff Raff diesel, Fairway ford (ebay) and Amazon has some sellers of OEM just don't get a knock off from there the ones under 250 bucks
High Clint I have a quick question for you maybe a stupid question. So I am looking at buying a 1998 international that has the 444T engine which is basically the same as the ford 7.3 powerstroke Both made by Navistar. The truck I am looking at has a problem that it will start up but won,t stay running. Will the Test you said to do be a good indicator follwing the ordered you laid out be a good cause of the issue. Thank you for your time sincerely, Brad
Thank you Clint Another very informative video If it is not a problem can you please tell me where you are physically located besides U tube Again thank you very much and have a great day
Wen I’m full throttle and go throw the gears I get 65% ipr duty cycle an throwing a p1211 icp reading good no oil in my icp so do u think it the ipr I think it by watch the pids on my edge cts2 and truck starts right up in cold weather and hot I’m in Cail I’ve have her for 2 years
Did you figure your issue out?
@@MikeConner.akaRadio a hot tune the oem hpop can’t keep up that’s it took off the tune and she good so it the tune and it has 297k so time for a new pump soon to get more oil to the injectors
@fuelup7504 that makes since. When I'm full throttle, I'm only getting a reading of just under 40% on my IPR no higher. Using forscan live feed to see this. Trying to figure out what it should read under normal stop and go conditions as well as wide open throttle. Trying to figure out if mine is good or not, it just doesn't seem to have the power that it did.
Ive just rebuilt the injectors had to replace 2 of them, new IDM, I dont have any boost leaks, tightened the waste gate a small smidgen, used to be able to power brake spool it up a bit and launch spinning the 37" tires it won't do that anymore just feels low on power. Oh and new IPR as well.
Turbo inspected good, although forscan says my turbo speed is about 150 rpms, I know that's not right and don't know how it can even pick up my turbo speed or rpms in general.
@@MikeConner.akaRadio it seem time for a new hpop how meany miles on the truck
@@fuelup7504 160,000
Could you please let me know where to buy the IPR from I called the Ford dealership and they said it was $700
I've found them at Tasca and other Ford parts websites. $250 and up.
Anyone know if the Alliant part works the same? I think that's AP63402 for International. About $250 also.
$850 Canadian at the Ford dealership for a motorcraft IPR 🤑🤑🤑
I have an OBS 7.3 and randomly started have a mis and loss of power while driving. I pulled the lines off the lift pump and blew them out. Even put a feed line into a can of diesel and can’t get the truck to fire now. Fuel bowl stays empty unless I fill it manually. Do you think the lift pump would be the cause possibly?
If you jumped a new tube from the pump and no flow on crank with out being there it would come off to me the pump has seen its days
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks so much for the reples and love the videos! I'm newer to 7.3s. I've owned mine for about 6 months but absloutley loving it!
I plan on using it as a cruiser maybe do something to boost a bit of mpg it already gets better then my 97 Tahoe with mud terrains
Clint, need help! When the oil is below 160 degrees (start up or restarting after cooling down) the motor will run fine and then idle up 1000 rpm’s and settle back down. On Forscan I can watch the IPR build % until it reaches 40-42% and crash again. It does this until the oil heats up. I’ve changed out (with Ford parts $$$) ICP, CPS, EOT, IPR, UVCH, main harness, New Fuel pump, stage 1 HPOP, High voltage IDM, not sure where to go from here. Not sure why the IPR would cycle like that? Any help would be appreciated. Once the oil heats up, it’s a dream to drive. Thanks so much
Location, location :) So there's my 1972 F-250 behind ya A, at the 1:02 mark, But the the IPR ain't behind my distributor... A :) But! I found the Bugger hiding under my Fuel Bowl on the hpop on my 2000 7.3 Grocery Getter :)
LOL I think I have your 2k in my truck pic file
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Really! Then please by all means use Big Blue's picture in your videos as you see fit! BTW... I keep spares in the glove box, ICP, IPR, and of course plenty of or inges :)
Where on the FORScan app did you find the option to see the hpop? I have everything but when I plug my 01 in.
I noticed that HPOP pressure wasn't available on the app either.
Right on
Hot no start issue today. 12 minutes it died. Crank no start. Hpop res. Full and fuel bowl full. Disconnect newer motorcraft ICP no difference. Wait 2 hours fored right up. Drove 6 miles and died again. Wait 2 hours and starts right up. This is definitely a pattern now. I read somewhere that the magnet solenoid on the IPR can fail with heat. I will ohm test when cold then ohm test once hot and failed. Any experience with a situation similiar?
Not a uncommon issue, It just sucks we can't just buy a new solenoid.
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD waited for it to die again in driveway. About 12 minutes exactly. Slowly poured cold water directly onto IPR. Hopped in cab and it fired right up. New ipr ordered.
My 7.3 does the same routine. Starts up fine in the morning. Runs fine for about 20 miles and then dies. Wait about 10 minutes and it starts up for about two minutes and then dies. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. I have been towed twice. Going to change out cam sensor. Also, change out IPR and other related sensors.
Is there a after market top engine harness you would buy? Or just get the OEM from Ford?
I find Riff Raff diesel has great prices along with fairway ford there on ebay and both are oem We tried a really cheap one from Amazon its was like 280.00 it worked just fine we have had it as a test for quality in one of our trucks going on a year now no issues So in this case read all the comments for reviews The 280 dollar one had no negative reviews
so, is there different IPR'S for the 7.3? i ordered a motorcraft part number (cm-5013) and it has a different piston in it, and right at start have max oil pressure. pulled apart and compared to your video. looks identical, exept for the pison inside the barrel.
There is a early IPR that went into the 15 degree pump and the one I show is for the 17 degree pump If your is a OEM 17 degree it would look like the video You could have a knock off (fake OEM ) unless I see it this is the best info I can give
Hi I have been researching many of your videos since I recently purchased a 97 7.3. I have a long crank issue (approx 10 sec cold or hot). Low ICP pressure when cranking. Once I get it started, it runs fine. If I turn off the engine and then turn the key back to the run position immediately, it will start back up without the long cranking time. (even if I let it sit like this with engine off/key on for several minutes). By keeping power to the IPR this way, does it somehow prevent oil pressure from bleeding back to the pump from the heads? It doesn't make sense to me that putting the key back on would make my long cranking issue disappear
Injector o rings, pop the valve covers off and have someone crank the engine over . Check the injectiors to see if any oil is coming out the sides. Oil should only come out the oil deflectors on the injector
why did you not mention the rough idle and die until the engine warms up or if you leave it plugged in overnight? Mine would start and idle extremely rough and die for several start ups until the oil warmed or l left it plugged in over night-once it was warmed up it ran fine-I replaced the IPR and have not had any trouble since
Typically that could also be injectors slowly going out. Mine acted like that and I needed to really get on it to force the oil through the injectors and warm them up. Ended up taking out my forward clutches one day because it was not happy one bit.
Hey Clint , what's a good reputable place to order a Adreneline High pressure Oil pump for my '95 Powerstroke truck wood really appreciate your inpute thanks Carlos
I'm not Clint but the past two I've ordered have shipped from DieselSite, even though I ordered through a third party website like DieselPowerProducts. From what I can see they are the main producers of them, but you can order them through various other sites. I go through DPP cause they have a point system and vet discount.
Thanks Gage. I'm ready to order one , back when Clin mentioned them he stress to make sure to order from a Reputable place I'll do some checking and make sure do it right thanks again pal !
I am working my way threw a p1211 and after watching this I realized my syloniod is mounted backwards do you think that would cause it
7.3 noob question. What year was the first year of OBD II on the 7.3?
Hi, is the HPOP pid available in the light version of FORScan? I can’t seem to find it. Using ODB2 Wi-Fi reader. Thanks!
Hey Clint, Any tips for a sudden Fuel Filter light flickering about 2k RPM? The filter was changed not too long ago.
sucking air , restriction switch going, fuel spring
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks for the reply. I can’t find much information at all about this issue anywhere and I replaced the entire fuel bowl back in December 2020 with a Motorcraft one from RiffRaff. I’m pretty sure that would take the fuel spring and restriction sensor out of the list of possibilities. I guess the next step is a fuel pressure gauge.
Why does my 1997 f350 call for ipr 2C3Z9C968BA ....1994.5-1995.5 style ipr valve when I call the dealer to buy a replacement?
Thanks. Great content. Maybe I missed it, but that tiny pin is hard to see. If you didn't say so, can you tell us which direction the tiny tiny end of the tiny pin goes?
go back to 2:09 and 23:05 this will give you a visual , The pin has a tapered tip that end goes into or direction to the HPOP The non tapered goes the direction of the solenoid
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you! I had found other images suggesting the same. And if one looks very closely, they'll see that the tip of the thin stub on that pin has a conical shape. One that would work to close that little micro-valve. All good!
clint can you tell me how to join this forum. where do i get to buy an engine harness for the 2000 7.3 power stroke
I changed my ipr valve and it’s sensor… now the service light is on… was not on before… what did I do wrong
I have a 97 f250 with the 7.3 power stroke diesel. I start it up it idles at between 600 and 700 rpmsand sounds good no miss I hit the throttle up to 2000 rpms with no problem no miss no smoke all day I can do it but when I drive down the road soon as I hit 40 mph the check engine light comes on and the runs rough and slow or no throttle the engine will stall if I don't shut the ignition off and I restart the engine runs rough and no throttle. If I turn the ignition off and restart it it runs great until I drive down the road and hit 40 mph and the same thing happens. Please help. PS I watch all of your videos and theres nothing on this problem.
that issue is covered in the HPOP video But any howze your truck is OBD2 so stop at a auto store and have them pull the code
Did you figure it out ?
I have a 95 e350 7.3l with very low power, very slow acceleration, all I've done is fuel filter relocation and electric fuel pump and regulated return. I have 65psi of fuel pressure, 600-1300 psi oil pressure, map is new from Ford with the hose, New Baro Sensor, ebpv delete, 4inch inch exhaust. Cel on for p1111 I don't know where to go from here.
Anyone have a link for the scanner? It’s not available for the link provided. Thank you
Where is a good place to buy?
Do you recommend a obd2 scan tool that isn’t the one in the video I can’t find that one sold anywhere and the link you have says unavailable
Can you please throw a link in for where to get a replacement harness.
Can you run seafoam in the engine to help clean everything on the 7.3?
Don't use sea foam in the oil on a 7.3 its to hard on the injector O rings This is what we have always used it slowly removes all the build up amzn.to/3r3dUYA 1 time a year normal 5k interval
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks man your awesome.. just started having some problems with my 7.3 today so I'm scanning your page to see it I can find the problem. Started randomly cutting off on me and jerking really bad when I hit the fuel pedal.
@@2alawabidingcitzen IPR, or ICP, or CAM sensor or rubbed through wire
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I'm thinking it's the ipr the motor only has 160k on it so all the wires look good. I have a scanner you recommended coming in today I will download torque and see if everything looks good. You should do a series on problems and problem solving with all known 7.3 problems. And you should do a video on the 02 dashboard lights and what they mean couldn't find nothing on RUclips about it really.
My 1996 F350 isn't compatible with the ATS3 Monitor, would the OBD II reader work? I'm guessing no, because my truck is like OBD 1.5, it has the connector for OBD 2 but it has very few contacts.
You can have your set up brought up to obd 2 there are companies that do this We are working on a video to explain the hows and whats it will be part of our forscan how to video in the future
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you! I'll be watching for that video. You've convinced me with my build/restoration I need to just pony up and replace that 26 year old writing harness.
2002 7.3 What is the hpop psi on idle 300psi or 500psi?
avg 680 to 820 on scanner always moving at idle
When the oil is hot my hpop psi goes down to low 300’s any ideas way
@@malditosilva6551 failing hpop or lpop or injector seals
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD just put a new hpop new ipr new lpop new icp injector orings are about 2000 miles old changed the oil too what else could this be ?
My van runs fine but i have a code P1211 the only thing i noticed it does cracks a little more when starting than before do you know what could my problem be?
Hallo can you help me?
I have changed the IPR 2 times I still have about 2000psi according to forescan what can it be please help.
Martin
Clint, is there a way to bench test the IPC Sensor?
the best way is with a scanner or forscan or like apps ///7.3 IPC pressure at idle. Warmed up, your 7.3 diesel's ICP pressure at idle should be close to 480-500psi with about 8-12% IPR duty cycle.
Thanks, I have forscan and I have not found these symptoms talked about anywhere. Cold start at an idle, readings are 3650 psi at the ICP and the IPR. I have my 5VDC at the ICP and have found no open or shorted wires and nothing obvious wrong with a connector. I replaced the ICP and IPR and a new wiring harness on the way. I hate throwing parts at it. Maybe I bought a bad ICP?
Oh, psi goes down to 2600 after warming up.
witch way does the SMALLpin go into the ipr , one end has a point on it ??
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
1 day ago
go back to 2:09 and 23:05 this will give you a visual , The pin has a tapered tip that end goes into or direction to the HPOP The non tapered goes the direction of the solenoid
What should the ipr % be while cranking?
Can't find Bafx products, any sugestions
WHERE CAN I FIND A NEW HARNESS FOR MY 96 F350 7.3??? ALSO LOOKING FOR A HARNESS FOR MY 2000 E350 7.3 ???
He answered that in the comments so maybe look there.
Does the upper wiring harness replacement connect to IPR on an OBS truck?
If you have a HPOP it has a IPR and 2 wire connector that has to be connected to it If you mean the rail injection then no
@Custom Works thanks! I’m getting 10.27 volts with fully charged battery’s at the IPR connector with key on engine off. It starts on then cycles duty cycle down to 4.6% at idle and injector pressure is 980 psi at idle (too high) and throws a check engine light. I’m going to replace the wires and then I’ll check the pcm output. Any other thoughts?
My ipr the ohm is reading 30.2 is this a bad ipr coil?
Brand new Oem Ford Icp and brand new Ipr ford oem. Icp pressure goes straight to 5000 psi???
IPR is stuck open it happens or the computer is getting a incorrect reading or output
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD dude I wish I could talk to you about this ordeal. It's this guys baby brand new paint job $5000 and I just changed his IPR and goes straight to 5000 psi. Both parts brand new.
If this is the issue will it start most of the time and only not start about 20% of the time?
IPR can cause this along with the plug going bad or wires But a Leaking injector , bad wire or connect or failing CPS ICP can also do this
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSDsearching for a WiFi obdII reader online and it seems out of stock. Do you have a second recommendation?
BAFX Products Wireless WiFi (OBDII) OBD2 no longer available. any other option
amzn.to/46RpR4p
haahhahha i like this guy thank you!!!
Hello, my name is jay and I work as a mobile diesel mechanic in California. And few weeks ago I was call out to check out a 1997 ford 7.3
For a stalling and hard restart sometime would not start till next day. And before I was called out I was told the truck was at two different shops trying to figure it out, and many new parts thrown at it ( all dealer parts ) icp,camshaft sensor, injector seals, hpop , ipr, fuel pump. I was able to duplicate the issues,
to me I was almost 100% it was the cam sensor because it would almost stall then turn it self back on in a split second or just stall as if u turned the off the ignition With no sign of fuel starvation or oil. After it stalls it’s very hard to restart most of the time or sometimes it will fire right back up.
But when it wouldn’t fire I’m not getting no high pressure build up past 190 psi, now I got 20psi on the low oil pressure side, oil reservoir full, fuel pressure at 55 psi cranking , when I put a pressure gauge in two the high pressure oil rail I can see it’s matching the scanner more less at 190psi. I got battery voltage at the ipr red wire with signal never dropping out. And from what I can see the computer seems to be sending the duty cycle the yellow/red wire when I hook up my power probe
Duty cycle jumps from 20%-80%. If i disconnect the icp sensor still no start. What I do is ran a jump wire from battery to the ipr valve and truck starts right way. Now I do see that I’m getting a duty cycle on the yellow wire but I guess is there another way to confirm I might have a bad Pcm
I hooked up a light bulb from the red to yellow wire to see if the tone of light will flash but when I connect the bulb in it stalls the truck. So please if u can get back to me on guidance on a proper diagnosis from here thank you
Check resistance in the wires... my power distribution harness is severely dry rotted causing many issues including not getting an accurate reading to the cps. Anything greater than .5 ohms replace the cable. I'd be much more comfortable at 0 ohms but I don't know what spec is for the system
Ipr gets constant 12v that passes through to the pcm. The pcm commands ground to complete the circuit. Resistance is very crucial in these operations
So where do I get a wiring harness.
Can my ipr be going bad and the truck run rough with no codes
Yes very common issue it can be diagnosed by a head pressure test at the oil rail
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD ok great thanks for the info and the super fast response! Ur videos have been a big help for me and my 7.3
How much does the wiring harness cost?
Where can I buy a new wiring harness for my 2001 7.3?
Amazon has em for 200$
He answered this in the comments so look through them.
changed IPR- now it's hard to start and runs very very rough. OEM part ( not cheap or fake) ...
Couple items , even the best parts can have issues it just happens you may need to get a replacement, I have found in several occasions you tripped into a bad plug or wire issue start it up and move the plug around and see if it goes away same with the wire slowly move it up n down around back and forth , also make sure its plugged in and the contacts are not over opened and making poor contact Give these a try
Where can a person find a new engine wiring harness?
Riff Raff diesel, Fairway ford (ebay) and there are some cheap ones on Amazon stay clear of those But there are OEM quality ones on Amazon as well Just have to read the descriptions closely Some manual trans are not available but if you get the same year for automatic its just a matter of adding 2 extra wires to the extra temp sensor You just follow back your old harness and match the new harness and get the new pig tail and new wires Ya a pain but it is what it is
Thanks
Where do you get wiring harness from
You can order them from ProSourceDiesel, I also sent my VIN# and they responded with the exact one I need.
Is 4-6% at a hot idle normal for ipr percentage?
relaxed idle 12 to 16 make sure the solenoid is in spec