Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! I replaced the cam position sensor and pigtail but still no start. Found your video disconnected the ipc and it just fired right up. Running like a champ with the much needed cam sensor. Bless you.
Another place to check on a no start is the HPOP oil reservoir that can drain all oil from a bad check valve. No oil to the injectors and you will have a no start. After an hour of interstate driving I stopped to get fuel and after filling up had a no start. Had to get towed. Days later I was given a suggestion to check the reservoir which was empty, filled it with a quart of oil and it started.
@@whocares5188 I should have mentioned the recommended procedure is to use a vacuum pump to suck out all the black nasty oil first then add one quart of regular oil. No need to fill it up to the threads. It may be that your losing oil from your HPOP and its draining your reservoir so your injectors wont get the oil they need to function. The best of luck to you.
Awesome! I changed the IPR and ICP and the truck started like nothing happened, thanks a lot! My truck had been parked for 4 years when I bought it, I had to replace the fuel injector cups because it was mixing fuel and water (after 1 week running) and also replaced all o-ring injectors, after 3 o 4 weeks driving it shut off while driving and parked again for about 8 months until I found your video. Now it runs like monster.
Just wanted to mention. If you put any sensors on your 7.3 make sure you get OEM Ford parts. I learned that the hard way. I put an icp sensor on my truck from the local parts store and it didn't work right immediately out of the box. Same with the CPS
I used 3 oem crank sensors, bought an aftermarket one and no issues since ( 140,000 miles ago) i keep one in the glove box. Just in case. Have helped a couple folks stranded for the same reason. Evidently there was a bad run on them...
I learned the hard way also especially with lift pumps. Aftermarket ones lasted from 1 month to 5 months. Now I got everything from International and so far so good.
A shared tidbit (didn't even watch this) but I figure some viewers might be searching for solutions to 'non start' problems, although this one seems rather rare. In 2018, I bought a low mileage 2003 F250 w/ 7.3 mainly because I got a good deal and did have a legit use - never owned a diesel before but every knowledge acquaintance raved about my purchase. Right out of the gate it had the following issue. After driving it any distance, short or long, the truck would fail to start after a brief stop such as running into a store. After sitting for 30 to 60 minutes, it would start right up and run great. This problem had the seller (non mechanic, but extremely knowledgable) and a local diesel mechanic (specializing in small diesels of this class and an owner of the same) both scratching their heads. The seller suggested not making brief stops, or leaving it running (you make the call as to how useful that advice is??). The mechanic wanted to perform a series of various diagnostic teardowns probably $500 just to get started on that road. My niece who is an avid gear head and works on diesels in the Army Reserve had no suggestions. ANY GUESSES ON THE SOLUTION FROM YOU EXPERIENCED DIESEL HEADS? Another acquaintance (non mechanic) who is a internet bulldog of all sorts of knowledge (yes, there is good info out here, occasionally) convinced me (provided links to various web posts) that I should put new batteries. I was skeptical as the batteries had already been bench tested 'good' at local parts store. ALSO, the starter always cranked strong, just wouldn't light up and plug in diagnostic lap top software showed no out of spec electric parameters. I bought new batteries and BINGO - problem solved. No where did I read of this problem specifically and, of course, not a directly suggested solution. I hope this finds its way to at least one person who has this problem.
I have a 01 7.3 that's been cutting out, then starts back up (for now). I have been reading forums for days. I wish I started my research with this video. You get 5 stars in my book. Thanks Stephen!!
I know it's been four months but if you are still having trouble there is a fuel pickup inside the tank that can break off making it so that air can get in, you always have to have more than a quarter tank that is where the break happens it looks like an upside down funnel with a screen. So keep the tank half full until you can work on it. this happens to older 7.3s mine is an 02
Mines be doing the same thing. Been keeping the tank at least half full. But I’m getting check engine light and other warning lights engaging when it stutters or completely dies
Follow up to previous comment: You called the item you replaced the ICP, when in fact when looking up a replacement for my truck the IPR is what you replaced in this video. You might mention that and clarify for us week end wrenches out here please. Thanks.
Handy pointer, on the pass side fender there is a cable, single wire with a weird bullet connector in the middle, that's the starter trigger wire, you can disconnect it and it'll just reach the bolt on the pos battery cable and you can crank the engine without the key. Certain you've mentioned that before, gonna watch this one, have a 99 7.3. Nifty tool for IPR but could you weld a 3.4 nut on one side to let you bite it with a combination wrench, just thinking out loud.
Nice video, but one AR correction. The slot cut through the threads running to the hole is to relieve pressure on the back side of the pintle. Without it, oil will leak past the pintle to the back side, build up and hydrolock it so the pintle won't move.
Awh yes the Candy Store. It use to be on the edge of PHX, it didn't move the city did. In the 80s I use to give a couple of dancers a ride to work. I had a mobile fleet repair biz and one of my customers was a landscape company across the street from it. Those girls would now be in their 50/60s. 😀
That`s a good informative video, My 7.3 just cuts off and dies then a in few minutes it will start up and die in 5 to 10 seconds. When it`s cold it runs till about when the t/stat opens, that tells me it`s heat related and coils are sensitive to heat. I bought it brand new in 1997 and only put glow plugs in it. I think i have the same problem as you had, Tach works while cranking , wont start with ICM unplugged. Yep I think you helped me a TON! Thanks
tured out to be the wires were arcing in the ipr solenoid plug and being the ipr is controlled (straight wired )to the ecm it was hurt too by the shorted wires@@n.m.mn.m.m2078
Well explanlation. Iam having a bit of a strugle with my 7.3 diesel without powerstroke. Seems to have the same problem as yours but i think it works different on the 1993. Appriciate the help.
FYI...tow truck drivers aren't ASE Certified mechanics. Dealers note that driveshaft strap bolts must be inspected AND torqued to specs. Failure wil void warranties and any further damage is liability issue. Your mechanic or dealer is responsible for torque and making sure bolts aren't stripped. Strap not cracked. Otherwise, its on you. Keep that in mind. Thanks for your video.
Best one-handed repair I've ever seen! Can I get info on that diagnosis app you were using? Seems like I need that. Also, after replacing injectors / glow plugs / fuel filter / oil / manifold gaskets (new 1 piece upgrade), I'm getting cranking and fumble but no start. Error code p12093 (high side open bank 1) it ran great for 1 mile and then fumbled and nearly stalled, had to limp it home. Measuring 2.6 ohms to each Motorcraft injector at the 42-pin harness connector, and I've triple checked the injector and manifold gasket connections and they're solidly connected. My hunch is my IDM is cooked?
Hey great video there. Appreciate your knowledge and skills. Thankfully I haven't experienced that issued yet, but my 73 does idle a little rough like yours and I've been trying to figure that one out. Now I noticed you had mentioned towards the end something about air being in the injectors and letting it bleed out. I was wondering if you can make a video to get more into that part of the deal? I've noticed my idle would smooth out after a while of warming up in the past, but that hasn't been the case lately and especially after I did an oil change and that's why I'm very interested to understand how that works. I'd greatly appreciate it if you can explain that a bit as I'm still learning about this wonderful motor. Much appreciate it and thank you for your time.
One of the best videos and most informative i have watched. ive watched several and this is the only one that told me that oil would run out and down the back. i thought i would be laying in the snow bank. i have the icp and ipr on order. any more information on the app you use would be greatly appreciated. thanks
I thought my icp was bad rough idle sometimes not all the time so I changed it, thinking irp becouse it shuts off every now and then for some reason I think now my boost gets to high and it decreases fuel pressure and stalls motor got a reader and gave me a 1249 &1211 code thinking a boost fooler. I'm not you but I'm trying to fix my beloved Nelly bell 99 f250 7.3 I really like your videos and hope to see more!
Lots of good info here but kinda hard to follow with all the self generated distractions. Like, in the middle of repair and diagnosis, you introduce your friend and kids and then how to make a tool to facilitate easier repair. Talk through the prob. then do the how to make the tool,. Intro kids and friend at one end or the other of the video, then and talk about side issues like chugging idle, and HPOP oil leak etc…it will be much easier to follow what you are doing. Much appreciate all your knowledge.. .
I have a 7.3 powerstroke I got from my uncle right before he passed away. I know it’s probably time to let it go but I can’t make myself do it. I have replaced the CPS and the ICP and went for a test drive today and it lost completely power running 65 mph. It’s done this three times and left me stranded. The other two times I let it sit for an hour and it cranked right up and I made it home. But today I couldn’t get it to restart. I don’t have all the tools or the money at the moment to pay a professional to figure it out for me. Would a bad IPR make it shut off after running for 5-10 minutes then no start for an hour. Then after sitting start back up? I’m so close to giving up. Idk what to do.
Hey steve i been watching your videos for a while. I was wondering how did you use your tablet i need a scanner but they are expensive. Is using the tablet cheaper? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Do i get the odb 2 adapter and download the app?
What should the exhaust back pressure on a 7.3 be? Just curious cuz I saw what yours was that but I'm going down the road mine's at like 40 PSI. Not sure if that's good or bad LOL
My 99 7.3 just lost all power and couldn't get out of its own way so I towed it home. It didn't stall just no power. I dropped the tank to clean screens but they were perfect, changed fuel filter and air filter. I guess tomorrow I will try this off valve deal and see if she runs. I don't have a scanner so just hoping I get it right
@@stitchthisditchthat259 yes, I had a lot of small issues with sensors but that wasn't the problem either. It was a bad fuel injector. Once I replaced that she was all good.
What is the device you plugged into your obd port? It sounded like you said "e.l.m. device?? Any info about that device would be helpful so I can buy one because I own a 2000 f250 powerstroke that has 209,000 mi and I know right now I'm having an issue where it cuts out within 10 seconds of first starting it. So I'm trying to diagnose that but have no diagnostic tools such as this device you plugged into your OBD port.
So currently on the side of the road from this very same problem. I have question, I saw no signs except loss of power a couple minutes down the road before the shut off. And my boost gauge showed zero the whole time. So my question is, is having the turbo unresponsive part of this issue? Or am I looking at a whole different problem in itself. I’m new to the diesel game, 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 powerstroke.
Hey there I have the same no start problem and when I revved the engine oil came out of the ICP valve.. what would be the next step after that? Would I have to check the HPOP now?
Should oil come shooting out of the hole for the Icp or just kind of ooze out? My truck died suddenly now it won’t fire, it has a new icr on it but new doesn’t always mean good.
@@Realofficialdee never did. I ended up replacing icp and cps with oem Ford and sold the truck. Hopefully it was fixed but I didn’t find out. It started consistently for 10-15 times after replacing the sensors.
I have an early 99, with no wait to start light. Came on longer than usual. Now, it no longer comes on. No fuel pump, I swapped the fuel pump relay with a known good one, nothing. I checked the pin #101 for glow plug controller output, and there was no power. It does have a TS chip in it. Any ideas on what's wrong with this truck?
I’m having a similar issue, no wts and no tach on a 97 f-250 7.3. I am stumped. I have replaced the PCM with a new flashed one, CPS, fuses and all the above. I am getting oil out the ICP hole. Do you think it could still be the IPR? That’s the last thing on my list before I fork out some money to take it to the shop.
@@lnsuvasquez2466 check fuse #22 in the underhood fuse box( power distribution block) if that fuse is good probe the red wire on the pcm and see if you get 12v.
Any idea if I’m getting a little bit of oil flowing out? It doesn’t seem to be spraying at 6-700 psi while cranking. I just replaced the icp and have a reman hpop so I don’t think it’s that. I wonder if it’s still the ipr
I would say a cranking and you have your IPR out, and you have a gauge hooked up and you're reading manual pressure directly from your cylinder heads.... I would think that whatever is generating that hi injection oil pressure is the culprit.... there's a high injection oil pressure pump somewhere you have to look for it and see what it's called.
My F350 7.3 died while driving and would not start. It was the first fuse to the left under the hood not the dash, a very small fuse. I believe it went to my fuel pump, this would be where I start before buying a camshaft position sensor
Your selecer switch... chip I need to know how and what to do to put in I don't know nothing about them but I have one on my truck trying to figure out how it works and So fourth and thank you
My same motor starts and runs good until motor gets hot,then it either will suddenly shut down or if I turn engine off,it will not start until it cools down,then will start and run again with same results,,any idea why it won't run hot? Could solenoid be shutting it down temporarily?
!['01 POWERstroke - No START [IPR]](/img/1.gif)
The best no start video on the 7.3L on the internet! Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! I replaced the cam position sensor and pigtail but still no start. Found your video disconnected the ipc and it just fired right up. Running like a champ with the much needed cam sensor. Bless you.
Same here. Did you replace IPC? Mine has engine light on with it disconnected but it runs and got me home.
@@joelbell1360 Yes. 2 years later I haven't had any problems.
Also, got the "blue" 99 and later cam position sensor. For some reason it runs way better.
Thanks for this walk through! If nothing else it’s a great introduction to some of the components of the 7.3 🙏🏼🙌🏼
My service truck suddenly died today with the crane out. Your video helped me get going again. Thanks for the video!
Another place to check on a no start is the HPOP oil reservoir that can drain all oil from a bad check valve. No oil to the injectors and you will have a no start. After an hour of interstate driving I stopped to get fuel and after filling up had a no start. Had to get towed. Days later I was given a suggestion to check the reservoir which was empty, filled it with a quart of oil and it started.
I can see the oil below the threads if I add oil it just keeps taking it. Should I keep adding till it can't old anymore?
@@whocares5188 I should have mentioned the recommended procedure is to use a vacuum pump to suck out all the black nasty oil first then add one quart of regular oil. No need to fill it up to the threads. It may be that your losing oil from your HPOP and its draining your reservoir so your injectors wont get the oil they need to function. The best of luck to you.
That's a good tip thanks
Awesome! I changed the IPR and ICP and the truck started like nothing happened, thanks a lot! My truck had been parked for 4 years when I bought it, I had to replace the fuel injector cups because it was mixing fuel and water (after 1 week running) and also replaced all o-ring injectors, after 3 o 4 weeks driving it shut off while driving and parked again for about 8 months until I found your video. Now it runs like monster.
This video helps a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make and post it.
Just wanted to mention. If you put any sensors on your 7.3 make sure you get OEM Ford parts. I learned that the hard way. I put an icp sensor on my truck from the local parts store and it didn't work right immediately out of the box. Same with the CPS
I used 3 oem crank sensors, bought an aftermarket one and no issues since ( 140,000 miles ago) i keep one in the glove box. Just in case. Have helped a couple folks stranded for the same reason. Evidently there was a bad run on them...
I learned the hard way also especially with lift pumps. Aftermarket ones lasted from 1 month to 5 months. Now I got everything from International and so far so good.
A shared tidbit (didn't even watch this) but I figure some viewers might be searching for solutions to 'non start' problems, although this one seems rather rare. In 2018, I bought a low mileage 2003 F250 w/ 7.3 mainly because I got a good deal and did have a legit use - never owned a diesel before but every knowledge acquaintance raved about my purchase. Right out of the gate it had the following issue. After driving it any distance, short or long, the truck would fail to start after a brief stop such as running into a store. After sitting for 30 to 60 minutes, it would start right up and run great. This problem had the seller (non mechanic, but extremely knowledgable) and a local diesel mechanic (specializing in small diesels of this class and an owner of the same) both scratching their heads. The seller suggested not making brief stops, or leaving it running (you make the call as to how useful that advice is??). The mechanic wanted to perform a series of various diagnostic teardowns probably $500 just to get started on that road. My niece who is an avid gear head and works on diesels in the Army Reserve had no suggestions. ANY GUESSES ON THE SOLUTION FROM YOU EXPERIENCED DIESEL HEADS? Another acquaintance (non mechanic) who is a internet bulldog of all sorts of knowledge (yes, there is good info out here, occasionally) convinced me (provided links to various web posts) that I should put new batteries. I was skeptical as the batteries had already been bench tested 'good' at local parts store. ALSO, the starter always cranked strong, just wouldn't light up and plug in diagnostic lap top software showed no out of spec electric parameters. I bought new batteries and BINGO - problem solved. No where did I read of this problem specifically and, of course, not a directly suggested solution. I hope this finds its way to at least one person who has this problem.
I have a 01 7.3 that's been cutting out, then starts back up (for now). I have been reading forums for days. I wish I started my research with this video. You get 5 stars in my book. Thanks Stephen!!
I know it's been four months but if you are still having trouble there is a fuel pickup inside the tank that can break off making it so that air can get in, you always have to have more than a quarter tank that is where the break happens it looks like an upside down funnel with a screen. So keep the tank half full until you can work on it. this happens to older 7.3s mine is an 02
Mines be doing the same thing. Been keeping the tank at least half full. But I’m getting check engine light and other warning lights engaging when it stutters or completely dies
Check your cam position sensor.
Dude that recommended your video wasn't lying. Great job explaining the process brother.
Excellent video! I'll be doing some troubleshooting on my 1999 PSD this weekend (Purchased as a non-runner for cheap) and I appreciate the tips!
4:40 Those sound effects are literally on point
Follow up to previous comment: You called the item you replaced the ICP, when in fact when looking up a replacement for my truck the IPR is what you replaced in this video. You might mention that and clarify for us week end wrenches out here please. Thanks.
I like the gauges on your talblet. Nice job man!
Handy pointer, on the pass side fender there is a cable, single wire with a weird bullet connector in the middle, that's the starter trigger wire, you can disconnect it and it'll just reach the bolt on the pos battery cable and you can crank the engine without the key. Certain you've mentioned that before, gonna watch this one, have a 99 7.3. Nifty tool for IPR but could you weld a 3.4 nut on one side to let you bite it with a combination wrench, just thinking out loud.
Thank You so much!!!!! My ICP sensor went out and your video was the only real help I got fixing it.
I miss these old mechanic videos of yours. Currently rewatching to get my OBS running.
Nice video, but one AR correction. The slot cut through the threads running to the hole is to relieve pressure on the back side of the pintle. Without it, oil will leak past the pintle to the back side, build up and hydrolock it so the pintle won't move.
Awh yes the Candy Store.
It use to be on the edge of PHX, it didn't move the city did.
In the 80s I use to give a couple of dancers a ride to work.
I had a mobile fleet repair biz and one of my customers was a landscape company across the street from it.
Those girls would now be in their 50/60s. 😀
Deserve a like 👍 and suscripción. Straight to the point. thank you
Has anyone else noticed that he says to ask your questions in the comment section, but never bothers to answer any of them...WTH?
7 year old video boss. Things change. Life changes.
That`s a good informative video, My 7.3 just cuts off and dies then a in few minutes it will start up and die in 5 to 10 seconds. When it`s cold it runs till about when the t/stat opens, that tells me it`s heat related and coils are sensitive to heat. I bought it brand new in 1997 and only put glow plugs in it. I think i have the same problem as you had, Tach works while cranking , wont start with ICM unplugged. Yep I think you helped me a TON! Thanks
Was it ipr?
tured out to be the wires were arcing in the ipr solenoid plug and being the ipr is controlled (straight wired )to the ecm it was hurt too by the shorted wires@@n.m.mn.m.m2078
Great video. I like the option to make your own socket. I am a fan of making something yourself.
Well explanlation. Iam having a bit of a strugle with my 7.3 diesel without powerstroke. Seems to have the same problem as yours but i think it works different on the 1993. Appriciate the help.
FYI...tow truck drivers aren't ASE Certified mechanics. Dealers note that driveshaft strap bolts must be inspected AND torqued to specs. Failure wil void warranties and any further damage is liability issue. Your mechanic or dealer is responsible for torque and making sure bolts aren't stripped. Strap not cracked. Otherwise, its on you. Keep that in mind. Thanks for your video.
Why would the drive shaft have to be disconnected on a manual trans.
Wow really thankful you posted this, I think the same thing happened to me
Best one-handed repair I've ever seen! Can I get info on that diagnosis app you were using? Seems like I need that. Also, after replacing injectors / glow plugs / fuel filter / oil / manifold gaskets (new 1 piece upgrade), I'm getting cranking and fumble but no start. Error code p12093 (high side open bank 1) it ran great for 1 mile and then fumbled and nearly stalled, had to limp it home. Measuring 2.6 ohms to each Motorcraft injector at the 42-pin harness connector, and I've triple checked the injector and manifold gasket connections and they're solidly connected. My hunch is my IDM is cooked?
Thanks for making the video, & explaining during your diagnoses.
ANOTHER GREAT HELPFUL VIDEO.....GOOD SOUND.....GREAT INFORMATION ON TESTING BEFORE WASTING MONEY ON JUST THROWING PARTS AT IT.....THANKS.....
Beautiful Video Brotha" U help me Understand quit a bit"....Thank You"
Great no start video...Easy to understand....
Appreciate your time in this video. Question will the hpop be low on oil when removing that plug?
Hey great video there. Appreciate your knowledge and skills. Thankfully I haven't experienced that issued yet, but my 73 does idle a little rough like yours and I've been trying to figure that one out. Now I noticed you had mentioned towards the end something about air being in the injectors and letting it bleed out. I was wondering if you can make a video to get more into that part of the deal? I've noticed my idle would smooth out after a while of warming up in the past, but that hasn't been the case lately and especially after I did an oil change and that's why I'm very interested to understand how that works. I'd greatly appreciate it if you can explain that a bit as I'm still learning about this wonderful motor. Much appreciate it and thank you for your time.
One of the best videos and most informative i have watched. ive watched several and this is the only one that told me that oil would run out and down the back. i thought i would be laying in the snow bank. i have the icp and ipr on order. any more information on the app you use would be greatly appreciated. thanks
What is the blue tooth diesel engine analyzer module you used?
Where can I get that analyzer ?
Nevermind saw it
Where did you get your program from... I see you're on Verizon, is it a down load app
torque pro app
What are you using for diagnostic tablet and adapter? I'm looking to buy something to diagnose my 01 F350
9:13 I appreciate the appearance of Gutter Beer, it's one of my favorite brands.
At 10:50 Collin down the road likes his Shinerbock, lol..... So do I. Great video, thanks for posting.
I thought my icp was bad rough idle sometimes not all the time so I changed it, thinking irp becouse it shuts off every now and then for some reason I think now my boost gets to high and it decreases fuel pressure and stalls motor got a reader and gave me a 1249 &1211 code thinking a boost fooler. I'm not you but I'm trying to fix my beloved Nelly bell 99 f250 7.3 I really like your videos and hope to see more!
Lots of good info here but kinda hard to follow with all the self generated distractions. Like, in the middle of repair and diagnosis, you introduce your friend and kids and then how to make a tool to facilitate easier repair. Talk through the prob. then do the how to make the tool,. Intro kids and friend at one end or the other of the video, then and talk about side issues like chugging idle, and HPOP oil leak etc…it will be much easier to follow what you are doing. Much appreciate all your knowledge..
.
I have a 7.3 powerstroke I got from my uncle right before he passed away. I know it’s probably time to let it go but I can’t make myself do it. I have replaced the CPS and the ICP and went for a test drive today and it lost completely power running 65 mph. It’s done this three times and left me stranded. The other two times I let it sit for an hour and it cranked right up and I made it home. But today I couldn’t get it to restart. I don’t have all the tools or the money at the moment to pay a professional to figure it out for me. Would a bad IPR make it shut off after running for 5-10 minutes then no start for an hour. Then after sitting start back up? I’m so close to giving up. Idk what to do.
Hey steve i been watching your videos for a while. I was wondering how did you use your tablet i need a scanner but they are expensive. Is using the tablet cheaper? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Do i get the odb 2 adapter and download the app?
Very good video, probably going to pick up that used truck and it sounds like the problem they ran into thanks
Good video, thank you, very informative.
What app and or program are you using on your tablet? Do you need to hook it up to something?
excellent work you are the man
Thank you sir. Very very helpful.
Good learning for you is very specific.... what is the name of your scanner?
Hey I have a bunch of oil on the icp connector but yet when I unplugged it still cranks but won’t start (even with new cps). Any thoughts?
What should the exhaust back pressure on a 7.3 be? Just curious cuz I saw what yours was that but I'm going down the road mine's at like 40 PSI. Not sure if that's good or bad LOL
Good work thank you god bless you
My 99 7.3 just lost all power and couldn't get out of its own way so I towed it home. It didn't stall just no power. I dropped the tank to clean screens but they were perfect, changed fuel filter and air filter. I guess tomorrow I will try this off valve deal and see if she runs. I don't have a scanner so just hoping I get it right
Check your turbo connection boots/ clamps they are known for popping off and causing that problem. Hopefully that’s all it is.
Did you fix it
@@stitchthisditchthat259 yes, I had a lot of small issues with sensors but that wasn't the problem either. It was a bad fuel injector. Once I replaced that she was all good.
What kind of diagnostic tool are you running or what do you recommend that won’t break the bank? Thanks for sharing this video🙏
He is using tourqe pro and a obd2/elm device
Thanks for sharing! Got to get torque!
What is the device you plugged into your obd port? It sounded like you said "e.l.m. device?? Any info about that device would be helpful so I can buy one because I own a 2000 f250 powerstroke that has 209,000 mi and I know right now I'm having an issue where it cuts out within 10 seconds of first starting it. So I'm trying to diagnose that but have no diagnostic tools such as this device you plugged into your OBD port.
what is the diagnostic tool and app are you using?
So currently on the side of the road from this very same problem. I have question, I saw no signs except loss of power a couple minutes down the road before the shut off. And my boost gauge showed zero the whole time. So my question is, is having the turbo unresponsive part of this issue? Or am I looking at a whole different problem in itself. I’m new to the diesel game, 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 powerstroke.
Hey there I have the same no start problem and when I revved the engine oil came out of the ICP valve.. what would be the next step after that? Would I have to check the HPOP now?
where did you purchased the plug device for diagnostics
When my 7.3 died on the freeway it was fuel pump! This other guy his truck died and it was his injectors!
I recognize the AVE language lol
,Pixies and Electrocity . Nice to hear it haha
What device are you using to diagnose this ford
Should oil come shooting out of the hole for the Icp or just kind of ooze out? My truck died suddenly now it won’t fire, it has a new icr on it but new doesn’t always mean good.
Figured it out?
@@Realofficialdee never did. I ended up replacing icp and cps with oem Ford and sold the truck. Hopefully it was fixed but I didn’t find out. It started consistently for 10-15 times after replacing the sensors.
Are you using the 327 car sacaner and toque pro app ?
Stephen,
Based on your experience, what year is the best for 7.3 engine?
Early 2000s with forge rods
What obd2 reader do you use to get the info... I heard you use the torrent app. But didn't catch which reader . Thanks
My cousin has two sons and there names are ethan and Caleb.
What OBD sensor and app do you use for that diagnosis?
I'm wondering the same thing
Where can I get that app? and what type of tablet do I get?
Torque app, elm OBD2 Bluetooth adapter, Android tablet 4.4 or higher
Cool
What scan tool are you using?
What is that chip tuner you talked about and where can I find it, your videos have helped me big time, thanks
probably the ts 6 position tuner. Think they are only $250. Older technology, but it does the trick.
Man it just happened to me as well about an hour ago but, I think it's the ICP sensor because it's full of oil in the plug
The candy store is a strip club in north Phoenix. I laughed when. I heard you and your child went there.
And Tucson. 😊
I buy that ipr sensor and nothing.any tips.is my service truck has the 7.3 1999 f250.i chance the pushing fuel pump and nothing.
what is a good device like your elm 327 for a iphone? Please help.
Thanks for telling us how to close the app.. ive been force stopping it through settings lol
What plug in device are you using to scan with
Hey, what scanner do you suggest for a Ford OBS to have on hand?
What app are you using and what Bluetooth adapter are you using cause every scan tool don't work on my diesel trucks but it works on my cars
Torque pro app
Hi Stephen would you be willing to listen to this F550 power stroke run on a short video maybe give me your best guess it’s surging up and down
I have an early 99, with no wait to start light. Came on longer than usual. Now, it no longer comes on. No fuel pump, I swapped the fuel pump relay with a known good one, nothing. I checked the pin #101 for glow plug controller output, and there was no power. It does have a TS chip in it. Any ideas on what's wrong with this truck?
This is great and helpful
I’m having a similar issue, no wts and no tach on a 97 f-250 7.3. I am stumped. I have replaced the PCM with a new flashed one, CPS, fuses and all the above. I am getting oil out the ICP hole. Do you think it could still be the IPR? That’s the last thing on my list before I fork out some money to take it to the shop.
We have no WTS and no scanner readings replaced with a new programmed PCM today. No start. 2000 7.3
Did you figure out yours?
@@lnsuvasquez2466 check fuse #22 in the underhood fuse box( power distribution block) if that fuse is good probe the red wire on the pcm and see if you get 12v.
@@johndowe7003 thanks. It was the whole fuse box under the drivers dash. It got bumped and when we bumped it again (accidentally) she fired right up.
@@lnsuvasquez2466 loose wires or how was the fuse box loose?
Any idea if I’m getting a little bit of oil flowing out? It doesn’t seem to be spraying at 6-700 psi while cranking. I just replaced the icp and have a reman hpop so I don’t think it’s that. I wonder if it’s still the ipr
I would say a cranking and you have your IPR out, and you have a gauge hooked up and you're reading manual pressure directly from your cylinder heads.... I would think that whatever is generating that hi injection oil pressure is the culprit.... there's a high injection oil pressure pump somewhere you have to look for it and see what it's called.
Hi , can you tell me .....at 20:21 the videos show black cycle knot , What's that ? where to buy it ?
I have a f-350 6.2 Shut off In the middle of the highway, but after it sits a minute, it will start back up, what causes that?
If that part is out on the 73 , would it still start with starting fluid
What set uo are you running to be abke to see that all on a tablet
A little tip I saw recently on yt is to buy a shower socket for about 8.00 and it is perfect for changing the ipr.
Excellent job
I can tell you live in texas because of those damned grackles in the background.
I would really appreciate the video on how you did the selector dial you show in this video thank you
Baby ruth candy bars are definitely hard to find.
hey stephen, how can i get a torque app ireall like ur video
Great video budd
My F350 7.3 died while driving and would not start. It was the first fuse to the left under the hood not the dash, a very small fuse. I believe it went to my fuel pump, this would be where I start before buying a camshaft position sensor
Your selecer switch... chip I need to know how and what to do to put in I don't know nothing about them but I have one on my truck trying to figure out how it works and So fourth and thank you
How much was the system you are using?
My same motor starts and runs good until motor gets hot,then it either will suddenly shut down or if I turn engine off,it will not start until it cools down,then will start and run again with same results,,any idea why it won't run hot? Could solenoid be shutting it down temporarily?