7.3 POWERSTROKE DEBUNKING HPOP OIL CHANGE....
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 июл 2024
- SEE HOW THE OIL RESERVE TANK ON THE 7.3 HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP ACTUALLY WORKS ,,,, PART BY PART ,,,, NOT EVER SHOWN THIS WAY
#7.3powerstroke #customworks #HPOP
7.3 powerstroke,obs 7.3,7.3 powerstroke mods,7.3 powerstroke cold start,7.3 powerstroke straight pipe,7.3 idi,ford 7.3,fast 7.3 powerstroke,7.3 diesel,7.3 l powerstroke,obs 7.3 powerstroke,7.3 powerstroke build,fast 7.3,7.3 f250,7.3 mods,7.3 l powerstroke cold start,7.3 l tune,7.3 l powerstroke oil capacity,7.3 l powerstroke straight pipe,ts chip 7.3,ford obs 7.3,off road 7.3,obs ford 7.3,f250 7.3 gas,7.3 no power,600hp obs 7.3 
Авто/Мото
This has been up for a month and no coment!! Shux. Well i am about to buy a for f350. I've been watching alot of videos of the 7.3, and this is useful! Thank you! So, even tho the truck doesn't need a new HPOP yet..should I replace it when I put a new turbo and exhaust?.. i figured it might be a good time to do it since I will have it somewhat exposed ya know..
My HPOP is original with 290k miles on it.
I'd just leave it alone. If you ever have to replace it, it's easy to do so! Also I personally have a new one on my shelf ready to go along with a stock pile of other parts and filters/sensors. I have 2 of everything haha.
@@Joshua-yn1zx you must have some money to spare!
If you don't have a problem, no..
@@psd28 If you don't pull heavy with tunes, you would not even know if the pump was weak. Running tunes that allow higher IPR% while pulling heavy may throw codes that are not seen with stock programming.
My last new truck was a 95 F250 with the new 7.3 Powerstroke. I've since had another 95, 96, 3 99's and a 2001. I run a 99 F350 Dually as my hotshot truck and my daily driver is a 99 cab I put on a roll-over wrecked 2001. So I've learned a few things along the way with my 7.3's. For those of you who think it's necessary to pump out your HPOP reservoir, be absolutely sure to thoroughly wipe down all interior surfaces of the block and pan, and flush out all the oil galleys, HPOP hoses, HPOP oil rails and injectors. The machine shop will do all that for you at a nominal charge. I mean, if you want to remove ALL the old oil and gunk, be SURE to do it right! Keep in mind that the volume of oil that passes thru the HPOP is very high and it will replace the oil in the reservoir while driving in a matter of seconds. It's not just sitting there stagnant. After the HPOP pump sends the oil to the injectors, each injector has an exhaust port which sends to oil back to [drum roll] the top of the heads where it drains back to the - yep, you guessed it - to the oil pan. The ONLY time to suck the oil out of the reservoir is if you want to remove the HPOP or IPR without making a huge mess in the valley.
I usually don't do my HPOP reservoir oil during an oil change, except when I think about it and feel like dealing with it, but my logic is that there is so much old oil stuck in the engine already, I really don't like the thought of having that much more in there on top of that. I use an extended life semi-synthetic blend and change the oil every 3,000 miles, so any oil stuck in there would have over 1,000 miles of service life left in it, so not such a big deal.
Leaving the oil in the HPOP reservoir is the same as doing an oil change and then adding a cup to cup and a half of the dirty oil back into the engine. Just doesn't seem like a good thing.
But I change my oil often enough and use an extended life oil, that I'm not that worried about it in my truck.
7.3 is the only reason why I've become my own backyard diesel mechanic! Wife constantly wants me to buy NEW truck but no thank you! My 99 is the best truck I've ever owned I'm happy to work on it and I love spending money on this Beast!
Good choice!
Yep, my '96 F250 powerstroke is the best truck I've ever had, other than my 1987 GMC Sierra I've had since the early 90's. My dad bought it as a "program truck" that was super low miles and only 1 previous owner, and we got it for the farm. I ended up rebuilding an LT1 350 "4 bolt main" engine and put that in it and put a 4 barrel Holley quadrajet and holley intake and HEI distributor in it.
Thank you for your video very informative just had a high pressure oil pump put on my '9973 wish I had seen your video first. As time permitted would have attempted it myself and at the very least had some other questions for the shop that made the repair. Thank you again for the future we have four other seven threes in our landscaping fleet
I totally agree! My wife says the same thing, my 97’ needs o rings due to a few leaks here and there! A buddy of mine just bought a brand new f450 dually 6.7 it has every option you can think of but looking under the hood I just shook my head and and said good luck 8-10 years from now the labour to repair any thing on this will cost you $ so Iam with you , 7.3 easy to do on your own 🔧⚙️
I have a orange 99 f250 7.3l CrewCab with 78k. Best dsmn truck I've ever had, so I am with ya bro.
How can ya not love this guy for breaking this down for us thank u so much 👍🏼
Go see this video cold motor oil change started and ran under 1 minute and I show the hpop oil If this isn't proof I don't know how much more I could bring this point home
ruclips.net/video/ThwxCA93Aao/видео.html
I pull the oil out of the HIPOP and replace it and have noticed a big difference in cold starting. I also notice the oil that comes from the reseroir is quit a bit more sludgy than what drains from the pan. When I was an aircraft mechanic, we routinely had to de-sludge propellor domes and it is incredible how oil will coat the inside of a pressure chamber with a thick chewy layer of crap. It was like peanut butter. Probably not what you want in your HIPOP system. Its an extra pain in the butt but Im in alaska, so everything I can do to make cold starts easier is worth it.
this cannot be accurate sir. He clearly stated he got over 500 k no problems. It refutes your claim i think
But COLD starts matter. Wear/tear...etc.
Changing a few ounces of oil out of the H pop isn’t going to make it cold start better I don’t know where you’re getting that from if your truck is maintained properly and the glow plugs are working you shouldn’t have cold start issues my early 99 will start in subzero temperatures at the turn of the key after wait light goes out I don’t understand why so many people complain about cold starts with these power strokes there must be a lot of people with wore out components or neglect on their trucks. I think it’s a waste of time there’s tons of people out there with 500,000 miles or more on these engines that have never touched the oil in there hpop and like the video creator says if you’ve been using good oil from the beginning that shouldn’t have sludge in there to begin with and your truck will probably completely rust out around the engine long before it breaks down because of some sludge in the hpop 😅
@Dave of All Trades I did it and it so much better the oil on it was so thick and black it made the motor run was quieter
@@justinjreabcm1381 Maybe your using conventional oil? My 7.3 ha had AMSOIL 100% synthetic 15-40 as long as I have owned it and every mechanic I have had it in to do maintenance over the years always say it’s the cleanest engine they have ever seen and that I must take good care of it (which I do) so I don’t know if you guys are getting sludge due to dinosaur oil or not? With changing my oil at 5k intervals and synthetic I don’t see how sludge would ever build up anywhere in engine including hpop. But I’m no expert so just curious.
The plug is there for the purpose of sucking out the oil to change the HPOP so the oil doesn't dump into the valley of the engine. Not necessary but helps keep the valley cleaner.
Great video! Glad I saw this and stopped to watch. I've only sucked the oil out twice over the years and change at 5000 miles, now at 525,000 miles. Always thought it was a waste of time considering all the other old oil left in engine during an oil change... like in oil rails, high pressure hoses, etc.... you'd never get all the oil out unless you dismantled the top end. You're time would be better spent cleaning engine bay, so you could watch for all the known leaks a 7.3 will have over the years. BTW, I'm still running the original injectors... pulled them once to change o-rings and reset gaps. As long as its still getting 16 mpg and purrs like a kitten, I'm not touching the injecters until they start causing problems!
Reset gaps? Did you shim the solenoid’s and injector’s top plates (poppet valve, I think that’s what it’s called) In my 02’ F350 DRW 7.3 I just did my O ring seals, injector cups, new valve covers, changed oil and flushed the coolant system cuz I had fuel in the coolant. I pinched the #8 glow plug wire with the valve cover, it was not connected to the glow plug, also found the #5 glow plug was not plugged in. My truck starts up fine but smokes like a train, then ends up stalling and sometimes hydro locking. I’m still in the middle of working on it, Any thoughts, Advice or Comments will be appreciated. It never smoked until I replaced the O ring seals, and the turbo ain’t right either. I’m 50 now, been an AC technician since 2000, So I’m familiar with working on difficult things. RUclips does have helpful videos but I have to sift through plenty of them to find reliable info
325k with original injectors and 4r100! Obviously they are tanks, I run hotshot EDT every fill up just to help.
Evergreen stuff here! Thanks for taking the time to share what you've learned over the years. It really is important to us die-hards out there.
Thank you for sharing this and the clarity of the walk through is awesome I had just bought our first 7.3 02 Excursion so learning how to make it last
Great video! I appreciate the time you tok to really go into the upper oil reservoir.
powerstrokehelp channel has a video discussing the fact that the LPOP being warn, can allow oil to leak back into pan (overnight) and that it take some time to pump it back up into the channels and eventually the reservoir and HPOP... and that this can lead to cold start issues (like both mine and my buddies 2000 7.3L). A simple test is to crank the engine until there's oil pressure (according to gauger on dash), then crank again to start. I tried this at 63˚, a temp my truck would never start at. It worked. After several times of long cranking, oil pressure came up, then truck started. So maybe changing this upper oil reserve is not necessary when oil leaks back into pan, b/c it just mixes with the oil in pan. I have also read comments about people discovering a sludge build up in this upper oil reserve. SO maybe an inspection is worth it.
PSH channel also discusses putting an oil additive in w/ oil when changing this upper reservoir oil, likely to help clean and preserve injectors. For me, peace of mind vs. saving a few hundred bucks serves me. maybe not others. Since most of have well over the value of th ruck into it already, I don't mind being a bit overboard on preventative maintenance.
thanks again, and nice of you to inform and then emphasize people get to make their own decisions. That's a great approach.
great info when I do the oil change,I always drain the HPOP and fill it up with new oil,but after that the “sinkhole”starts,I couldn’t top off the oil,now I understood what is happening thank you so much 😊 sir.
I’m glad you made this video. I watched the other video you made before this one. I hade been changing my oil up top for a couple years. Until I dropped that plastic tube I was using to suck the oil out. Well it came loose and fell down in the reservoir. A 1995 PSD model and it didn’t make my oil pump and injectors happy. A very expensive mistake!!
Thank you so much for your video and your time... I can work on gas engines and needed a little guidance for my 7.3 turbo. Your explanation of the 7.3 is amazingly useful 👌 👍🏼 👏
THanks for this breakdown and walk thru with a visual model.
Very Helpfull
I greatly appreciate your knowledge of the 7.3.
I own 2 of them since 2006.
A 2002 F350 and a 2003 F250
Thank you for all the help you have given me.
Allen
Very interesting, I never knew that completely how it worked and flowed. I don't think I'll be doing it anymore. Thanks for your good video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I don’t suck oil out of reservoir but I had a o ring break on ipr valve ,motor ran bad just to get it home I put oil in reservoir to get home where I had a ipr valve and changed it it ran better tip top so good to know just to get ya home! And dry sense of humor is kickin man keep it up.
Thank you for the simple clarity of a good tech!
Good video , always wanted to see inside the reservoir . Thank s
I watched and commented on your debunked video about this,and I’m a stickler for getting as most dirty oil out I can but after my last go round I’ve decided I’ll just drop the oil a lil earlier and save my effort.
Thankyou for showing this video with all the disconnected peices.very interesting
Thank you for the detailed video, great job👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great video-thanks. I have drained mine once a year until I stripped out the top hex plug. I could be considered a pre-maintenance nut and it bothered me not being able to suck it out. My 2000 7.3 with 190,000 miles on it. Minus rebuilding the transmission at 150,000 miles it’s been a fantastic truck that I baby.
That sounds exactly like mine. And about the lifespan of the transmission unfortunately lol
Why such low mileage transmission changes? Got over 150k on mine with no issues whatever.
I tow a toy hauler that Max wieght fully loaded is 16,500 lbs.
My buddy tows heavy too. His was replaced at 350k. He's got well over 400 with no issues.
My 7.3 is at 260k and I love this truck. I’ve done a ton to it and it’s fun to drive. It has a bunch of Banks and RiffRaff parts and it runs great.
LOVE RiffRaff!!
@@vinbayne4820 yea me too! Clay helped me out a lot with my order. The customer service and technical knowledge is great there.
Thank you for your video found it to be very thorough and informative. Just had a high pressure oil pump replaced at a shop wish I had seen your video first they did a good job but would have liked to ask some questions now I know for the future
You bet
Great video thank you for the help Iv never seen I broken down like this! HUGE HELP🤙🏼🤙🏼
very well explained ,thanks for this.
Nice work , thanks for this info.
Thank you for that, I appreciate you explaining that
Thanks for this vid. I just stumbled and found your channel and just subbed. great info. !!!
Thanks I have a almost complete series on sensors , repair hands on vids, tech talk vids and more I mix it up with some quick political vids for fun, Holy Shamoly compilations, Reviews So watch what you want and pass on stuff that doesn't interest you
Great video my man well put,
Fantastic video, thank you.
Thank you too!
Good video. Thanks for the info.
WOW! 5k. I always did 3k. But that’s cool. I didn’t know you could go up to 5k. Thx. Love the video.
I do a lot of pulling a trailer that’s 3200 lbs empty and around 7500 lbs full with my 7.3 with a lot of stopping and going. I use rotella T6 with a quart of Lucas with around 5000-6000 miles between changes. I’m at about 350k miles, have never changed the hpop res and have never had any motor issues.
you have obviously had good success but Lucas is generally not recommended because it can start foaming and that’s not good for the HEUI system. You probably have been saved by the anti foaming and other great properties of the T6. It is what I run too. Good stuff . Hard to find now
@@bch5513 I’ll have to read up on that, I appreciate the tip!
@@bch5513 We get it at O'Riley's. If they don't have it they can get it for you. Normally in a couple days.
The best thing you can do for any HEUI system is to know how to keep the maintenance up.
T6 full synthetic oil and using your fuel and oil additives. My customers I've always recommended to grab some Rev-x fuel and oil additives, it makes a tremendous difference in how the engine will run.
I like the in depth explanations as to why you do the things you do. Some people would maybe call it a little OCD. I have been called that myself. I've saved many of your videos. My truck is a 2002 F250 7.3. As of now she's a classic and I try to take care of her and your videos help.
from my ESTATE NJ tengs. good video from Guatemala 🇬🇹 GOD bless America 🇺🇸
Great info buddy! Thanks for sharing! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
YOU ROCK! GOOD JOB on the vids!!!!!!
Another great video, I dont think anyone on RUclips has done a explanation like that in detail 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
i have a 1995 f350 4x4 crew cab 7.3 , i rebuilt the engine in my garage in 2015 and put a NEW transmission in 2 years ago, truck has zero rust and is a beast, everywhere i go someone ask me if i want to sell it LOL no way !. It is actually one of the first 7.3 powerstrokes that were made its a 1994.5 but considered a 95 some parts i have to order for 94 and some for 95 haha ! anyway great video, i never would even think of changing that hpop oil its pointless.
Thank you my brother love my 7.3 l 285,000 and still going
290k on mine and the truck is falling apart from age but the motor still runs like a top lol
Thank you was helpful
When you said "put your favorite stickers on it" i went and got a Supreme stickers. Now its a hype 7.3
❤ you are a good tcheacher im from Cameroun in Africa
Great video!
Just curious, are you from Minnesota?? Or somewhere nearby?
Thanks for an intelligent video!!!
Good video!👍
Only reason I change my hpop oil sometimes is because I try to remove as much of the old oil as possible. When I do the oil stays cleaner and yellow for almost a month. I don't do it every time.but a few times a year.
Thanks for the video... you are mr 7.3...
From what I saw is at some time you might want to change the filter and that’s it. Great videos Sir.
That's the plan!
This is the comment I was looking for. If only to have a visual inspection of the screen and maybe replace it after a quarter million miles
Great video!
Thanks for the visit
Could you make a video on how to properly replace the o rings on the hpop fittings and which o rings to use
I think it’s something good to do if ya got the time. It doesn’t matter how good of oil you have, that reservoir will hold some for easier start up and in my mind I’ve always been a lot happier if I can all the old oil out as possible when I do a service because old carboned up oil is old carboned up oil, no matter the brand. As far as those ports go, those are inspection ports, those are test ports and for pumping the oil out and that screen o-ring gasket only came stock on 01-03 models so if you got one older than that then you don’t have to worry about poking a hole in the screen but it good to replace those every once in a good while if ya service your truck regularly. Riffraf diesel just came out with a conversion block for older 7.3s to where you can use that screen oring gasket, I got the email today lol
Are not inspection ports*
You're my new favorite channel. The information you're giving me on my new baby is phenomenal. Can you add the 6g72 also? LMAO
Been wanting to see this exact explanatoon, I changed mine when i did my first oil change. Truck had been sitting for 5 plus years before i hought it, but i thought it cant hurt. I noticed about a quart came out, but .ore than a quart went back in. It never overfilled telling me that there was some type of channel, probably to the pan. Nothing fot over filled, rhe oil is already getting black and its been driven less than 25 miles. 367k is what odomoter shows
Thanks for the video. I understand your opinion. I do it about every other oil change, usually in the fall. I just can't stand putting brand new oil in the engine and leaving close to a quart of dirty oil in there that I can replace also. I guess I'm just anal like that. Makes me feel better and doesn't take long. I'm on my second 7.3 with close to 500k and just recently changed my injectors for the first time. Not because it needed them, but due to a performance towing upgrade. It doesn't hurt anything.
You made perfect sense make sense more sense to just clean it and replace the filter
Great video, still going to suck it out and change it for the extra mile. Tho I would recommend changing it at least when you change from 0w to 15w….
Theirs a easier way just remove the anti drain ball in the block
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I’ve seen your video on that, was thinking about it
Dude great video!!! But I have to say your remind me of Jim Hopper from Stanger Things 😀. Your awesome.
Jeez I had to look him up and watched 2 best of video's of him and Your a really good judge of people
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD love your videos sir! I have 7.3 245k still going strong. Ty sir.
one thing that seems like one should service ,,, check clean ,, is that filter ,, omg really fine mesh .. yes i think that should be serviced , maybe once year ,, or lots miles ,,
I run Amsoil 15 /40. I religiously change my oil every 50,000 miles. I change the Amsoil Filter every 25,000. I have changed my oil 9 times and the filter has been 19 times. How many miles is on my daily? 489. I changed my injectors at 387. I can't remember how many were leaking down over night but it was slow starting. At least 3. I also had a little leak on 1 cup. So I did "D" all of the Above. All G.P.s, Injectors, and Cups. I test the oil with an independent lab. The results can back the same. Still in spec. Run it for 12k and resample. I would change it. The oil did it's job. One time I pulled the Hpop reservoir. Added it. 3 times. Tested that oil. No difference from the crankcase. I am coming up on another oil change... I will probably try it again.. When I am saving thousands of dollars... what is a couple of additional quarts? Not much when I am buy 2 x 2.5 gallon containers of oil.
When i hit 500k i am planning a full frame off body swap and fix/ replacement of any and all necessary parts to go the next 25 years... HEY YOU WANT TO TEAR IT DOWN ?
Do you recommend replacing the resivore screen at any certain miles for preventative maintenance.
I usually run Rotella T4 or T6 and change at or before 4K miles .
Thanks . You put out great videos
I recommend at 300,000 intervals to not only replace that screen but clean it out and replace all sensors with ford oem and the under the valve cover wires and gasket If 7.3 psd owners all did this they would eliminate majority of problems I have a fleet of 14 7.3's in one of my business's and never ever have all these issues you see and hear about and I don't have any tuners on any of them. We do install them for customers but they get the talk of what these things do and how they shorten the life of the engine and cause problems
My 01 7.3 has 186k miles. Is a rust free truck. Has a BTS transmission with a big cooler . A coolant filter , TS6 chip ,wicked wheel, pedestal delete 4" ex. , 2wd.
We pull a 5th south for the winter so it doesn't ever see snow. I'm a retired fleet mechanic so it's serviced regularly .
I don't ever plan on selling the truck so I'm interested in any preventative to keep it off the side of the road.
Thanks.
I only heard about this oil change situation a year or so ago. It was through a PowerStroke Help RUclips. Bill's reason was that the return was allowing oil to exchange and remix with the crankcase oil. It extended the life of the pump and injectors. I sampled the crankcase and the pump area when I did my next oil/filter interval change. I was interested becasuse I use Amsoil and go 50 K Intervals and Amsoil filters every 25k. I can't remember the results. I will look upLjubljana and report back. Thanks for your information. I at 477k at time.
50K intervals on oil changes and you're worried about oil left in the HPOP?
Leftover oil in the HPOP is the LAST thing you should be worried about if you're only changing the oil every 50K miles....
🤣 50😂😂😂
I have a 2002 7.3 what is a symptoms of a low pressure pump going bad?
Let me be your editor and camera. U got so much potential here on RUclips
Thanks, Taking video journalism and other courses
There is still old oil in the HPOP and injectors. Will dirty your oil. It does circulate when engine is running. I’ve done what they do my oil stayed cleaner a little longer
That's why regular oil changes are so important to combat the oil that still remains. I've been told on any HEUI system,whatever the oil change service mileage recomendation the manufacturer calls for,change it in half of the allowed mileage.
Thanks for the video. Regarding 800K miles on one of your 7.3 what oil do you put in yours? I run Rotella 15w/40 standard in my 7.3 and John Deere tractors. What is "junk oil"?
Thanks
ruclips.net/video/ZY1pOBFCFj0/видео.html ruclips.net/video/uD0nUcHULbc/видео.html
Thanks Clint for the info on the difference between ad injectors and bb and so on... here's the magic question i had to replace three injectors and don't really know if i have mixed ad that were already in there and put three bb or bd injectors in will it affect the performance of the motor?
The injector marked LL has to be in the Number 8 cylinder that would be AE LL or occasionally AD LL either way if that's in the wrong cylinder you will overheat the number 8 and also the cylinder where the LL is miss installed
THANKS ABUNDLE FOR YOUR HELP
His videos are so 👍
I bought my 2001 power stroke 7.3 last year. It’s my first time of ever owning a diesel truck. My brother has had one for a while now and he recommended the 7.3 because of the dependability. What I know about it is what I have picked up from other people and on the internet. There’s been a lot of controversy over what oil I should be using. I’ve been told to use shell Rotella and some have told me I should be using Ford Motorcraft oil. What do you recommend on the oil and filter
700 SynShield® Durability Advantage Engine Oil 15W-40 // napa gold 1734xe every 5000 mile max here is a great video showing several oil tests ruclips.net/video/khDNpvdUq4Q/видео.html
I know the low pressure pump keeps the hpop res full and circulates , its all one system
Ive been sucking out the res on every ojl change but ive been putting in Archoil additive
Directly in res so it gets to injectors at full strength upon startup
And then gets diluted as engine runs
800k miles and still have same original hpop and injectors
The stuff keeps injectors from the stiction problems and no gummy or sluggish problems
you need to change or replace the filter and if so how often
JUST suck it out and CHANGE IT. Mine does not have a filter on the gasket for reason. Remove as much OLD OIL out as possible and replenish with new, yes you don't have to measure it out. DEBUNKED the DEBUNKING so we don't don't need to DEBUNK anymore. LOL Thanks for the video.
well i wish I wouldve found this video YESTERDAY!!!! lol I tried to suck it out with a one hand pump and tube only to have lost the tube down the reservoir which then I had to take apart to get that stupid tube out! Now im waiting 2 days for new filter and gaskets to arrive lol and jobs being pushed back because of this
Great learning video but I have a question
If I need to remove my hoop do I need to drain out any oil before I start ?
either removal of HPOP or reserve tank there is a portion of a quart of oil no matter which one you are doing best to do both if doing HPOP and remove all the tank bolts just remove the top and dont knock the tank and suck out the oil then clean the tank and have new gaskets for the tank top n bottom with the filter this also makes it easier to do the HPOP
All your information is great, and I hope you can help me decide what to do with the truck that my father in law gifted me. It’s a 2002 f250 4wd 7.3 diesel and has 254k miles. Right away I noticed that when I turned the cab heater or defroster on, I smell diesel fumes. I replaced the fuel filter and put new o rings in the filter bowl, and changed the engine oil and filter and put in Delvac oil. It runs fine but I still smell diesel when I turn on the heat and defrost, and now I have engine codes, exhaust pressure sensor high voltage input, keep alive module failure, fuel level sensor malfunction. Should I keep working on it, or sell it? Thanks.
sound like your just about there in being completed with all over looked maintenance don't throw in the towel now. As far as diesel smell usually its because of the up pipes leaking But if there was a fuel leak in the valley before you getting the truck, removing diesel fuel smell out of venting is a bitch I usually run the blower on 3 KOEO and spray lysol spray in the exterior outside inlet vent ( where the wiper assembly is) it takes a few times but kills the smell of old diesel fuel
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you buddy
I appreciate your help
I think if you do that. You might as well do oil cooler. Pull galley plugs. All at same time. Lmao. Total waste of time. If you change your oil like you should. Then you don't have too. I can still see my hash marks on dipstick. After 5k. Jmo. Btw Clint I like your videos man.. keep it going.
I have a problem with cold starts in the winter. What in your opinion is the problem and fix for the cold no starts?
I would be looking at testing the glow plugs and wires plus the relay 12v= Ohms x amperage
12v/Ohms = amperage
example
12v/0.1 ohm=120 amps. Which would produce more heat.
12/0.6 ohm=20 amps. Which would produce less heat.
thank u
When this was internet legend on a must do thing. I did it somewhere around 120-140k. Well umpteen years later and 400k there really no point to it. Also, becareful it's very very easy to strip or worse case the oring so freeking crusted it ain't leaking now then ah shit it leaking now....
If you do good maintenance your gtg. But to each his owns as he stated. Does it help you be the judge. I did it more out of curiosity when I did it shit 10+ years ago. Good video
Makes sense. Its not hurting anything however based on this information. That inspection plug might leak if not resealed properly. Thats about it. And why does the oil coming out always look so awful even after fresh oil changes?
I have a large boat with a centrifuge in the engineroom. In my 7.3 F-250 PU I drain the oil including the HP tank, centrifuge it and refill. The oil remains transparent longer by including the HP oil. If it was easy I'd drain the oil rails. I've been running and rebuilding larger marine diesels since the 1960s. In my experience the cleaner the oil is, the longer the engine life between overhauls. In marine engines, I usually get double the hours between overhauls on my engines compared to the same engines run by others.
Because of the injector system, I see the 7.3 as the most unreliable diesel I've ever used. I find it hard to believe a diesel engineer designed it. I think Mercruiser used the engine for a few years but it failed because of reliability of the injector system and the average marina mechanic has no idea how it works. I use Ford parts that are slightly better than off brands, but the only way I get some reliability is to replace all the sensors, etc., every 3 years. And sometimes that's not often enough. I carry a box of spares. I'm sorry I bought it. I should have bought a tow truck at the same time.
What is the best oil for the 7.3L's? I have been running Rotella T6, but i dont know if there is a better choice out there. I also run 1 ounce of Archoil per quart of oil.
That's what I run. Sent a sample off to Blackstone to have it analyzed once after a 5K oil change and it was still good in every category. 260 K on my '99. I quit worrying about it.
I have a 3/16 or 1/4 ni-cop metal line that I made to fit into the hole connected to a soft line and a hand pump. Been changing the hpop oil for years. 370k of towing and severe dust and heat. No reason to leave that dirty oil in there.
My friend did an oil change and changed the hpop oil. Then he changed the injectors either 50 or 500 miles later. The oil on the dipstick was light brown but when he removed the oil rail drain plugs under the valve covers, the oil was as black as Wesley Snipes. So there is oil flow to the reservoir but not so much in the rail I guess. You said you have over 800,000 miles on your 7.3l and never changed it so that to me is proof enough that this is a waste of time. What oil do you use btw?
delo 400 is all i use
So how come the oil in the pan is nice an clean but the oil in the reservoir is thick an dark ?
I beg to differ with your opinion. I have a 1997 f250 with 410 thousand miles. I started changing that oil in the resevior at 60 thousand miles. They say just like you do that the engine oil mixes with the hpop oil. It doesn't do a very good job. The example i have is the very first time i did this i changed the engine oil 1 week prior. I drove the truck approximately 600 miles. I use schaffers 7000 partial synthetic 15 -40 oil, its green. I pulled the dipstick and the oil in the pan was perfectly clean. I removed the plug you say not to remove and pumped out about a quart. Black and nasty oil is what came out. I added the same amount back in and drove the truck for 5 min. Repeated the process 2 more times. I do this every third oil change and the results are always the same. Nasty oil in the reservoir. I know what i see and thats after one week the oil is always still dirty. You cant hurt anything buy changing the oil the way i was told by a diesel mechanic. I will continue to change the hpop oil because it doesn't completely mix with the oil pan oil. Works for me, to each his own. Anyone reading this do what i did. Change oil n drive 500 plus miles and you will see how much dirtier the hpop oil is.
Im shicked that the man that tells us to use new bolts puts the front cover on with a rubber strap. Great video, much appreciated
You almost gave the pros but fell short. It's an expensive oil change. I change 15 or up to 25,000. Removing that old oil gives some extra time.
Is it possible the thicker, heaver parts of the oil settle in the reserve tank over time since the oil in the tank does not drain at oil change. Also the tank may not flush in normal operation.
Yes In my more detailed video that followed this one I point out it would do well to remove the tank, clean it and install new seals Then one should never have to worry for another 10 years or so If you change the oil and don't over run the changes
The screen filter attached to gasket eventually would need to be cleaned, yes?
yes just replace it part of the gasket and clean the entire tank
I’m not to the end yet, but my question is this, I see you explaining how the engine feeds oil to the HPOP resets our. How does it cycle the oil back to the oil pan? This seems to be a dead end system, only circulation being what exhausts as the injector cycles. Does that mean the same oil stays in the high pressure injection system? I would like to know how fast the high pressure oil cycles.
Oil leaves the injector through the diverter in to the head then drains down to the pan exchange rate at idle is a quart every 3 mins so every 3 mins the tank is fully exchanged
So it seems the only reason to siphon the reservoir would be at oil change, before startup, to remove all possible dirty oil.
@@kirkharrell7726 I forget with video I talk about this but if you remove the HPOP reserve tank and clean it and install new gaskets you would never have to look at that part of the system again You will find the same leaving as you would find in a oil pan , By removing and cleaning it will become slippery again
How often should that filter in the reservoir be charged
If your a new owner of the truck or its at or up coming to 300k good time to do it, clean the tank up squeaky clean then your good the rest of the trucks life as long as you change your oil regularly . All oils will leave behind residue that builds up in the bottom of the oil pan and the reserve tank of the hpop more likely when the oil is not changed in time or regularly
A question. I strip the plug when I go to remove. I change the engine oil and change 1st giving the hpop a chance to cool. Yes I then go to a star bit to get it out. Any suggestions on how to avoid the stripped plug scenario? Thank you.
www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-hpop-billet-reservoir-cover-1999-2003/?sku=RDP-HRC-BLACK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhNab_ML7-QIVOvzjBx3mEQQNEAQYASABEgJ3wPD_BwE
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you very much sir! This was most unexpected,
Just get a square bit plug from Clay at riff raff…..I stripped mine as well and problem solved..
What oil do you use in your 7.3?
Schaeffer Mfg. 15W40 Diesel Engine Oil 15-40 Gallon 7000 Series
Where are you located.
I tried to do mine today, could hardly get out half a quart
What brand and type of oil do you recommend?
700 SynShield® Durability Advantage Engine Oil 15W-40