Ford 7.3 Powerstroke Oil Change
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- Опубликовано: 17 июл 2024
- Supplies I use in this video:
► Rotella T5 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil : amzn.to/2WUStp1
► Premium alternative, Rotella T6 5W-40 : amzn.to/39lmwwK
► Ford 7.3 Motorcraft Oil Filter : amzn.to/2tiwRFw
► Hot Shots Stiction Eliminator + Diesel Extreme : amzn.to/2GBiwMi
► 23qt Oil Drain Pan : amzn.to/2I3VHCY
► Oil Filter Tool : amzn.to/3ZAeUPu or amzn.to/40NWrQu
► Fluid extractor for HPOP : amzn.to/3HaR3wT
► General Fluid Pump : amzn.to/2LpZ5Gp
► Craftsman tools I use : amzn.to/3T5t34p
Ford 7.3 oil capacity is 15 quarts (2 of which go in the oil filter itself, remaining 13 poured into engine oil filler)
Drain bolt torque spec: 10-12 ft-lb
Want to save even more $$$? Order direct from the supplier site and use my discount code!
► Promo code for all items on the OEDRO site: Justin15 (15%off)
OEDRO website: bit.ly/3rV4V9L
Promo code for all items on YITAMOTOR site: Justin10 (10%off)
► YITAMOTOR website: bit.ly/3BvDYfR
In this video I will be performing an oil change on my 2002 Ford F250 that has the 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine. Since I have been having some issues with cold starting, I am also adding an oil additive called Hot Shots Stiction Eliminator. The stiction eliminator helps reduce gunked up oil in your injector system and other important engine components.
Check out my other Ford F250 7.3 Powerstroke videos below!
► Upgrade Your Tow Mirrors : • Upgraded Towing Mirror...
► Upgrade Your Tail Lights : • How to Replace Ford Tr...
► MEGA Batteries and Cable Installation : • Diesel Truck Battery R...
► 7.3 Oil Change : • Ford 7.3 Powerstroke O...
► 7.3 Fuel Filter Change : • How To Replace The Fue...
► Mishimoto Transmission Cooler Upgrade : • Mishimoto Transmission...
► Ford F250 T-Stat Housing Upgrade : • Thermostat and Upper R...
► Ford 7.3 Glow Plug Relay Replacement : • Glow Plug Relay Replac...
► Install Boost Relief Valve : • Installing A Boost Rel...
► S&B cold air intake : • The Best Intake For Yo...
► MBRP 4" Exhaust : • MBRP 4" Exhaust Instal...
► F250 Stereo Upgrade : • Sony XAV-AX100 Install...
► F250 Heater Core Bypass : • Ford Heater Core Bypass
► Trailer Brake Controller : • Tekonsha Trailer Brake...
► Legendary 7.3L Powerstroke diesel : • The Legendary Ford 7.3...
Subscribe to my channel for weekly videos of my racing videos, car modifications, and more!
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Instagram: thebtrjustin
Website: btrgarage.com
Facebook: / thebtrgarage
00:00 Introduction
01:50 Parts and supplies
03:04 Draining old engine oil
04:20 Remove old oil filter
05:05 Replace crush washer and drain plug
06:07 Fill new oil filter with oil (~2 quarts)
07:08 Install new oil filter
08:02 Torque drain plug bolt (12-14lb.ft)
08:15 Fill engine with oil and stiction eliminator
10:32 HPOP reservoir location
10:58 Siphon oil from HPOP reservoir
11:08 Fill HPOP with new oil
11:30 Wrap up and review
12:40 Start engine and check for leaks
13:33 Conclusion
BTR Garage is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. 
Авто/Мото
*The oil change and stiction eliminator products really improved my cold/hard start issues with the truck! Has anyone else tried out these products? They seem to work alright!*
*** More Ford F250 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel videos below!
***
► MBRP 4" Exhaust : ruclips.net/video/IzkZUxBhtkE/видео.html
► F250 Stereo Upgrade : ruclips.net/video/WfWpWhJ80K4/видео.html
► YITAMOTOR Tow Mirrors : ruclips.net/video/ieRJQ2tzn88/видео.html
► Trailer Brake Controller : ruclips.net/video/5UHx_FK6IeM/видео.html
► Legendary 7.3L Powerstroke diesel : ruclips.net/video/aLcdKsXR8sQ/видео.html
Glad things improved for you. Had the same problem. I was told to try 3 Qts. Marvel Mistery Oil at my oil changes. That was 75,000 miles back. Smoothed things out after about 500 miles. You might also try using a small punch on the bottom of your filter. It's a lot cleaner and lighter when removing.
This is off point. But remember this is a diesel that has five or six common items that must be functioning correctly in order to start properly in cold weather.
1. Glow plugs with relay.
2. Air intake heater coil with relay.
3. Exhaust back pressure valve.
4. Block heater, if equipped.
5. 12.5 volt or better batteries with clean terminals.
6. A strong starter.
As long as the oil looks good, leave it alone. Newer oil is going to be a higher viscosity than the old oil you replace. Changing the oil in a hard start condition will make it worst.
Thanks for the feedback, that all makes sense. Mine was due for an oil change anyways, so I didn't specifically change oil for the hard start problems. Good info to know!
@@garygarland8886 Do not put Marvel Mystery Oil in your crankcase. Their formula is essentially Kerosene, it is simply thinning the Oil.
I added Archoil AR9100 to my oil, and it improved my hard/cold starts.
Glad to see the 7.3 again, that’s what brought me to this channel and made me hit the subscribe button. Hope to see more videos of it soon!
I saw another video where, after loosening the oil filter, it’s end was punctured ( with hammer and punch ) so the oil could mostly drain b/f removing the filter. It was a bit less messy that-a way.
Awesome video - thanks! This will guide me through my first 7.3 oil change.
You got me with your sweater, brings me back to my childhood.
Your presentation was like a tv host, easy to follow. I just purchased my truck and I guess the seller changed everything but the oil. Thx. Good tips in comment section as well.
Thanks! Congrats on the truck!
Thank you sir! I appreciate the video! Good camera placement and a very articulate lesson!
Thanks, glad the video was helpful!
Thanks for the video im hitting with both hands & doin it by my self with this class👍👍👍
I just did your oil change and HPOP (24oz) reservoir change and I was Absolutely shocked how Different my 7.3 turbo reacts and accelerates. 393,560 miles, original engine, and it moved Freely, like it wanted to run to 3,000 RPM for fun. I didn't let it but I believe my old 2002 feels like a teenager again. Haha
Awesome oil additive; y'all reading this, drop what you're doin and buy this stuff and full synthetic, Shell 15w-40.
Awesome to hear! I had a similar experience after the first oil change with these products. I could actually feel the engine/truck running smoother and more responsive. It was a unique but very noticeable change, oil quality makes a big difference on these big diesel engines 👍
A little trick for a cleaner oil filter removal is to drill a small hole in the bottom of the oil filter and let it drain before removing. Thanks for the Stiction Eliminator tip. I may have to try that.
Great tip! In one of my later videos I did a similar thing, which was to pound an (old) screwdriver through the bottom of the filter and drain it that way. Same concept :)
Run Rotella T-6 5w40 specially for the winters you get in Colorado. Walmart has 2.5 gal bottles. The hard start seems more like a glow plug issue. FYI I run T-6 on my 6.0 and 1.9 TDI year round here in California.
I run T6 5W-40 here in CO. Also use Archoil 9100 in everything. Starts easy and runs fantastic.
Since I have not changed my oil in 200,000 miles this was a very good refresher as to what I should expect to do. I am using the Amsoil 15W-40 HD Diesel and Marine oil with a conversion kit from Amsoil. The kit consists of a bracket to mount on the frame that holds two filters, one course and the the other a fine filter, which replace the OEM filter. Then every 15-20,000 miles I send a sample to Oil Analyzers who send me a detailed reading of all the particles in the oil and a recommendation as to changing the oil or not. I also change one filter the first time and both filters every other time. This may not be for everybody but I think I have saved some money over the 18 years that I have used Amsoil not to mention the time it takes to change the oil.
Good stuff! I have sent off oil samples to Blackstone analysis, who do you use? I need to send off an oil sample for my 7.3 one of these oil changes.
@@TheBTRGarage Hey Justin, I use the oil sample kit from Amsoil Kit 14 which has me sending my sample to Oil Analysis or Horizon either in Indianapolis or Houston lab. They send me an email with the total analysis and then a hard copy in the mail. I then can go to my account and see all the history of prior analysis. How much is you analysis? My kit runs around $19.00 which includes the analysis.
oil is still cheaper than motors...change your oil and filter
I use either the stiction eliminator or Archoil 9100 every oil change. I add seafoam to the oil and drive it about 20 kiles before every oil change. Seems to help.
My 7.3L Powerstroke has a block heater. Not sure if that is typical. Thanks for the refresher. I personally have never changed the oil in the truck. But do to work I cannot take it in to get an oil change and will do it myself this time. I always like a quick refresher video before working on the vehicles.
I think the block heaters are pretty standard. Mine has one as well and I would use it in the winter in Colorado.
Hi great vid as always. Really good thought out vid with a lot of good points 👍. My thought on the cold start problem is it maybe glow plugs but don't go by the "wait to start " light the glow plugs are on for up to 2 min easy way to see is to put a volt meter on one battery and turn the key on and when the voltage jumps up run and start it and see if it starts better I don't know why ford did it that way it causes confusion on when to start it. Have a good one and hope it helps 👍
Also if you just watch the needle on the battery gauge you will visibly see it shoot up when the Glow Plugs shut off. Honestly I wait nearly every time, regardless of temperature.
looking at the job before i do it and im so jealous watching you do it in a hoodie as i have to wait for it to be under 90 here in texas lmao
Hah, hope it cools off sooner rather than later! I know the feeling, living in Phoenix, AZ now and the summer is terrible :(
from NJ good video I ‘have a 7.🌲 bless you America 🇺🇸 thanks for your video
Thanks for watching!
I highly recommend an oil bypass filter. You will be amazed at how clean your oil looks when you pull the dipstick as time goes by. Installed mine over 60,000 miles ago and have been very, very pleased. It does increase your oil capacity depending on the filter you install. Good luck. 👍👍👍. 11-7-21
Interesting, haven't heard of those. I'll take a look, thanks!
@@TheBTRGarage Justin, had the oil changed, when I was younger I did it myself. Several weeks ago, just checked it this morning and I can still see through the oil and see the dipstick. Several people make them, AMSOIL and FS-2500, the one I have. The oil stays clear for several miles. Good luck.
I see a lot of comments here about oil. 10w30 hdeo is actually a good oil to run year round and even towing. It’s better than 15w40 in most 6.0 and 7.3 psd engines because it doesn’t shear down like 15w40. It doesn’t compromise wear protection or any other quality in the oil. It also helps fight stiction and rough running on its own.
on Diesel any diesel I only use Dlevac HDEO oils no additives needed at all
Thank you! This video is very helpful. It’s been a year, how would you say this is working?
Justin I am new to diesel engines and use for my work appreciate you video never heard os sticktion before I looked it up and was amazed cause my work truck does have poor idle and dies frequently usually in cold or first starts of the day .. just changed the oil but gon need to add the sticktion and the fuel additive
Great, hope the videos help! I'd definitely run the stiction eliminator through it and see if that helps.
@@TheBTRGarage yeah I ordered sum from the parts store should be in the morn .. def can't wait to get back to you on my results of it .. also didn't syphon the oil out of the res. Near the alt. And of course turned the fresh oil a Lil dingy but hey maybe get to it next time .. appreciate the vid new sub here
Good presentation!
Thank you!
👍👍👍 Thanks love your videos. Down in the Springs with the same issues.
Just curious have you tried the Archoil AR6300? I’ve heard good things about that product also.
Thanks! Yes, check out my latest video, I just changed the oil and used Archoil this time ruclips.net/video/_SCUt9MqL5I/видео.html
Great video, I just bought a 2002 F250 Super Duty with the 7.3. It has 250k on it and one of the first things I will do is change the oil and filter. Great video and extremely informative. Thank you!
Thanks, glad to help! Be sure to check out my more recent video that covers changing the fuel filter as well, you will probably want to do that right away with the oil change.
ruclips.net/video/_SCUt9MqL5I/видео.html
Curios how much you got the truck for?
@@artsalazar9841Traded a 2007 2wd FJ Cruiser with 250k on it and $3000. It blue booked at $18 k
I just got my 7.3 about 2 years ago with 226kmi. Check the oil cooler seals for sure if they havent been done yet. A little tricky to access, but once removed its not difficult.
I add Archoil AR9100 to my HPOP reservoir every oil change.
Shell T5 is a synthetic blend. T6 is full synthetic.
Make a hole in the oil filter and let oil drain to the oil pan then remove a filter. Zero mess.
Thanks, good to know!
That drain pan is a life saver. It's the best one for all drain pan.
Yea it is, I can't imagine changing the oil in this thing with some of my smaller oil drain pans.
I use a cream bucket from donut shop. Fits just under the plug on a 2000 4x4. Oh, the Rotel T6 5/40 is the bomb. Block heater plug should be inside front bumper if equipped. Turn on an hour before ya start and it cranks like a meth junkie.
@@TheBTRGarage where can I find that pan you use ? The link in description isn't to the same one on my end.
Just my .02, but good idea to Change the fuel filter every time you do an oil change also.
Just about to add that. That's what I was taught lol
It had been changed at the shop just recently, so I didn't do it here. But yes, I agree 100%. I have a new video coming soon where I show how to change the fuel filter too :)
Fuel filter is every other oil change
Ford says every 3rd oil change.
Cheap insurance, I do it every oil change. I only use Motorcraft fuel filters, and fuel filter tops.
If your having hard starts under around 45°f I can guarantee you it’s your glow plug relay. My truck has started perfectly down to the coldest temp I have seen 5°f or so unplugged. Let me know if you have any questions thanks
This was pretty much it! I later found out after this video when the GPR died. At the time I did this video it was still testing ok. The next video where I replace the GPR is an interesting one, stay tuned!
@@TheBTRGarage hope you replaced it with the white rodgers relay. That thing will not fail like the stock one. Install is a slight pain, but really not hard just tough to get some of the connections on there correctly. if you didn't, the motorcraft one will be dead in a year or two. This one will last the life of the truck. Here is the amazon link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE3HY4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Should try rotella t6 5w-40 during the winter but hotshots is good stuff but for winter easy starts use archoil AR9100 with t6 5w-40 and the difference speaks for itself. But i use hotshots and t5 15w-40 in the summertime but that stuff turns thicker than honey in the winter making it hard to pump through everything and i noticed its hard on the starters and chews teeth off on the flywheel
That’s the exact formula I use T6 5W-40 with Archoil 9100(use it in everything) here in CO.
Man just got a 7.3 2003 i had white smoke when I let the engine cool down and hard to start and when I went up to 50mph wanted to stall out.. changed the camp sensor $30 I starts like a champ and don’t do the stall out also...
Nice clean engine. Way to go. 👍👍👍. 11-7-21
Thanks 👍
Great video, first off get the Fumuto drain valve it's so much easier and cleaner. What has helped my 7.3's with cold start's is using the Rotella T6 5W-40, and when it's really cold I will let the glow plugs go for 30-45 seconds before trying to start, when I do this the trucks fire right up. If you want to go farther check the glow plug and relay, search here on RUclips and you will find several videos on checking those things out and some smoke at start up will be normal.
What he said ⬆
Thanks for the feedback, I definitely should have gotten the Fumuto valve, next time. I've gotten the recommendation for the T6 5W-40 from a number of people, I might try that for next winter. Only reason I did not use it this time is because we do not get that cold in the city, or if we do it doesn't last long.
I did check the GPR prior to this oil change too, and it tested fine. BUT, while the oil change definitely helped, the symptoms got worse over time and well, GPR turned out to be the culprit. Video of that coming soon :)
@@TheBTRGarage I tried using the 15W-40 during the summer months but the trucks don't run as smooth as they do on the 5W-40 so I run them on the T6 all year long.
Hmm that's interesting. Well next oil change I will definitely make the switch then!
I can confirm T6 5W-40 here in CO, it’s all I run all year with Archoil 9100 every oil change.
I use a 5 gallon bucket for the oil change. Slides right under.
stock height or lifted?
@@larrywineman4032001 f250 4x4 285/75 r16 aftermarket wheels no lift, my 2wd i would lift the front up a little to clear the oil pan
Good stuff run it in my 7.3
Love the content, just bought my 99 F-250 7.3 powerstroke and this video helped me flush all the systems and check for leaks on it. But I have a question what is the small hole above the oil pan at 4:22 your hand is just to the left of it.
I believe that's the hole in the converter housing where transmission connects to the engine crank.
Been a long time since this video but to avoid a messy oil change drill a small hole in bottom of oil filter and let it drain just like you would oil from oil pan eliminates the mess.
Yep, good tip! I've gotten that feedback from others and showed how to do that in later videos 👍
I just bought a school bus with a VT356 Diesel Engine. I know NOTHING about engines so I feel it is very important to learn as much as I can from video's. I learned a few things from this video and would like to know if you could do a Diesel for dummies video. Just give an overview of each component and how important it is.
I'll think about doing that, great idea!
I was reading that using 5w-40 full synthetic oil will also help with cold starts. 15w-40 is very thick cold and has trouble pumping the injectors to fire when cold. It might help might not. I am going to test it this winter myself.
Yep!
Running 10 w30 helps a lot too
Just fill up the filter with type f transmission fluid. Will clean those injectors ..
Quick question brother where did u get the pump to get the hpop oil out can u please tell me o wanted to replace mine too but don't have anything to pull the old oil out thanks ...Nice thorough vdo 👍
This is the one you want : ► Fluid extractor for HPOP : amzn.to/3HaR3wT
There are a few different styles, but that one will make the job simple!
I would check your glow plug relay to insure it’s functioning. Changing your oil is normal routine maintenance and should be done at 5,000 mile intervals and won’t cause smoke from your tailpipe in conjunction with hard starts in cold weather. It’s a $35.00 fix and takes 1 minute to check with a cheap test light.
Yep! I did a follow up video on exactly that topic, it turned out my GPR was indeed bad and shorting out.
ruclips.net/video/AJ3dP70mQAA/видео.html
I wish they made a clear oil catch pan/tank, with measurements. ✌️
I have 315k with new heads and rebuilt injectors. I have a demos copied starter which is strong but every 5 starts the engine wants to lag a bit. The starter is high torque but I feel like my old ford starter sounded more consistent (not as strong, but sounded even).
I’ve never used STI toon eliminator but currently run FR3 in the oil and edt in the tank.. would stiction eliminator be safe? Mechanic said my inner looked clean and had low wear. Do I need a stiction eliminator?
Probably not *needed*, but I'm sure the stiction eliminator will help with cleaning the oiling system out. Even if just a little bit, if it's already clean.
I remember when my engine looked that clean.
Low pressure pump gets wear and oil from hi press pump won’t build.
Replace low pressure pump and see the difference?
Try Hotshot Anti gel.
My fuel was gelen at temperatures of 20-30’s
Making my truck blow white smoke
Interesting, I wonder if that was also happening to me. Thanks for the tip!
Arch oil stiction modier is great as well! Call it H-POP not hpop😊. Gret vid! Riff-Raff diesel sells an over the belt upper radiatir hose as well, so you an cahnge a belt without draing your cooling system!
Thanks! I have a different video where I replace the upper radiator hose, along with a new T-stat and billet housing 👍
@TheBTRGarage I have two Billet housing's sitting on my work bench! Doing the mirrors this weekend as well. Great channel!
@@mikespence7250 Awesome! Glad the videos are helpful.
One day I will get a truck to haul my track cars. #Goals
Funny I was looking through the comments and found you on here. I was in your first 100 followers
More 7.3 videos
Is Rotella better than motorcraft oil?
Any ideas about using the magnetic oil drain plug like the Votex brand version. Are they helpful for diesel engines also? My truck is the 1997 f350 7.3L turbodiesel XLT with 180 thousand miles so I'm wondering if it's too late to be worth it? Amazon says the Votex dp001 fits and is a quality product unlike cheaper stuff. Mishimoto is also supposed to be quality. Thanks 👍🏼
It wouldn't hurt to have one. I personally have only used those on gas engines but imagine they would serve the same purpose on a diesel engine.
@@TheBTRGarage Thanks for your feedback 👍🏼
The 10w30 also helps with quicker starting at all temps and better fuel economy and a little less drag overall on the engine. You may see a drop of 5 psi in oil pressure but usually no more than that.
Good to know!
why doesn’t ford recommend 10w30 if it’s that much better
@@DC-nd7qz just use 5w40 rotella, new Detroit's an smaller diesel engines are using 10w30 as an option but most like Cummins still recommends 15w40, make sure your block heater, and glow plugs are working properly as well
Hi put two bottles of seafoam drive it for 100 miles your engine will come back to life take it from someone who knows after 100 miles do oil change when you do the oil change one 20 oz bottle of seafoam bottle of seafoam driving about 4 to 500 miles then do another oil change and then your engine will run like a brand new one your engine will run a lot better the other stuff is nothing take it from me I've been using this product for 20 years I've seen what it can do then pour a bottle into your fuel tank top off your fuel tank happy driving
we use b p mulit vianellus fleet 15 w 40
I had that problem,and what l did l shimed my armature plates n solenoids amazing runs like new,my truck has 413xxx ,l bought a shim kit on Ebay for $75 bucks problem solved
Oscar Faz , 413xxx, miles on the original injectors ?
I have all the paperwork for the used 7.3L I bought. Whenever they ( Ford dealer ) changed the oil they added a quart of Diesel Oil Conditioner BG11232 - I’m not big on additives, but if the Ford dealer was doing it then I’m wondering if I should continue.
Seems pretty common and there are a lot of products out there for that. I am going to try Archoil on my next oil change.
@@TheBTRGarageArchoil 9100 works. My truck I bought from my Dad. He was using the wrong oil but changing it every 3k. I had stiction on my 1997 7.3. Well took about 500 miles and I cleaned up the hydraulic side with Archoil. It’s been running like a champ since. I’m still on original injectors (127k).
Need close up of hpop reservoir
Dont forget to check the rest of your fluids while your there. Your coolant needed topped of.
Great point! I did notice that after the fact and got it topped off 👍
5 -40 or 0-40 in the cold . Ford recommends a 10-30 diesel oil for the 7.3 in winter but I run 0-40 and she starts like it’s summer
I did end up switching to Rotella T6 5W-40 for Colorado winters, seemed a little better.
After you use these additives do you have to continue using them? Or can they be one time use
It doesn't hurt to continue using them. I usually do the oil additives every other oil change or so, and the fuel additives every few tanks of fuel. Some people add them regularly, just kind of depends on your own approach and running condition of your engine too.
Hot shots is real good but very expensive!!
Motorkote is just as good or better a lil cheaper
Is the hot shot stiction eliminator only if you have issues or can I use it for maintenance or preventative? Just bought my 7.3 with 325k and don’t know what it’s been through.
Definitely recommended for your situation! Do the initial treatment per the instructions (full bottle of it) then after that you can follow the maintenance cycle per the instructions 👍
@@TheBTRGarage Will do. I will follow up in the future on the results. Thanks a lot.
You should’ve add hot shots there to reach the engine faster
Check out arch oil I run it in my 7.3 for Stiction issues In the cold months.
I just got that actually. I'll be putting it in soon with an oil change!
I wish my oil pan was in as good as shape as yours
My oil pan was pretty rusty and I saw how much it costs to get it replaced so, I decided to try something else. I used rust bullet on all the rusty areas (few coats) then I covered that with flex seal (bed liner spray won't stick to it). It has been holding up great and it feels solid. People laugh at flex seal because of their stupid commercials, but the stuff actually works great.
Yes.. Injectors DO NOT work as well after 250,000 miles on the 7.3's .. It's just the way it is. Also the wiring harness on the valve cover. Perfect oil choice! Rotella T-6 5w40. I got a Full injector / harness job done for $3,600 in Crescent City on the north coast of California, by a Diesel shop. It idles with less rattle and MPG improved by 3. No regrets.
I've got a ways to go before 250k miles, but good to know!
@@TheBTRGarage Excellent. Mine is a 2001 with 250k miles, bought used from a woman.
252K and change pulled my injectors and checked clearance, all had zero clearance. Replaced with all new injectors. Start is always quick and the amount of clatter is back to normal. I never get into fooling around with oil brand and weights. My last three big trucks (Pete and KW, one Cat and one Cummins one Detroit) had over a million miles when I sold them. Religiously serviced with Rotella. The 7.3's want 15w40 and that's what I always use. Never a cold start problem and never any smoke. I'm in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" crowd. Not interested in "improving" anything, just start it and drive.
@@pilot3016 Exactly what I've been doing for years. I'll buy a vehicle from a female owner any day, but only if the vehicle interior isn't trashed. Found that these were the folks most likely to not fiddle around with anything, but were hell bent on following service recommendations. So far it's served me well. Just picked up an Excursion like that and am happy as all get out with it. She used it to pull horse trailers and all the stock items were still there. Just well cared for.
@@WillyDaC Yes! You are correct. Don't mess with alterations. If you want something faster or more powerful...buy one. 👍
Used a bottle of suction with half a can of seafoam and my truck has never been quieter at just 152k original miles I have alot of life left in this beast
Is 288k for the 7.3 still a little bit miles
just sayomg if your going to change the hpop oil do the rails aswell on the heads believe it or not the rails holds 1qt a piece so thats 1 qt of oil that never gets touched in the oil change just recurclated i do ot every oil chamge on mine dont need to bit if your doing the hpop just remember the rails are part that system
You are correct! The oil gallery holds 2 quarts! 👍
I just put a new high torq starter and my hard starting issues are just a memory
Not a bad idea!
I can vouch for this! Best upgrade you can get!
Where's the follow up
It sounds like a glow plug problem. Have you checked your glow plug relay? 5w40 is a better oil in winter time.
I agree. I had the same issue several years ago, and the problem was the glow plug relay.
Thanks for the feedback! I did check the GPR and it tested good at the time of this video. My symptoms got worse over the weeks however, and it did turn out to be a failing GPR. Wait til you see what happened to it! 😮 Video coming soon 😁
Mine melted in half 😱
How often do you usually change the oil filter and do an oil change?
Every 5000 miles is what I try to stick to.
Thanks! That really helps, your video was very informative. I’m 16 and am getting a 7.3 soon and this was a must watch.
Great choice! Awesome trucks and they are fun to work on too.
Definitely don't go over 5000 miles for oil changes in a 7.3 with stock oil filter because of soot (carbon) contamination. It will cause excessive wear. Now, If you are running an oil bypass filtration system (approx 2 micron filter) and are sending oil in for Analysis to determine oil change intervals you can run much longer. I run a FS-2500 bypass oil filter and Rotella T6 oil. I have been changing oil at 20,000 miles. If TBN drops too low and everything else looks good I add Hot Shot's TBN Booster. BTW, you can also run a 10 micron hydraulic filter in-line on the 4R100 trans and increase it's life also.
@@ethanthroop9379 I'm almost in the same boat lol. I'm 17 and I'm buying A 2000 does f250 super duty with a 7.3 in it. Lol
Glowplug relay on top of the engine in notorious unreliable
Just replaced mine
AMSOIL 15W40 SEVERE DUTY IS THE BEST DIESEL OIL OUT THERE. ALL OF THE HOT SHOT PRODUCTS DO EXACTLY WHAT THEY SAY THEY DO. GET A ROYAL PURPLE OR AMSOIL OIL FILTER BUILT BETTER AND HOLDS MORE DIRT.
Thanks for the tips!
I’m confused, the stiction eliminator says it treats up to 32 qts but the truck only takes 15 and you put the whole thing in
Per the instructions on the 2qt bottle, it says to use "...approximately 4 OZ per 1 QT of oil for initial cleanup". For the 7.3 with 15 quarts of oil, that's ~60 ounces of Stiction Eliminator, or the whole 2Qt bottle (64 ounces). Since this was the first time I used it on this truck, I put the whole 2Qts in. For future oil changes, I would use half the bottle, or 2 OZ per 1 QT of oil, per the instructions. So that is where the "treats up to 32 qts" comes from I would guess.
Any advice on how to remove a seized filter?
Hmm, good question, I haven't had to deal with that before. I would probably give the filter some taps with a hammer all around it in hopes to break loose whatever is keeping it tight. Outside of that, you probably need to drain the oil and cut the filter down to get to the threads, where you could possibly get some PB Blaster or something in there. When in doubt, take it to your local shop!
Puncture the side of filter with screwdriver and push it all the way to other side and then use the handle for your leverage in removing.
hammer old large phillips screwdriver through the oil filter..it's messy but you have a good handle to turn that sucker..
Chuckle.. I had a siezed filter. Tried 3 techniques and thought I was going to go to church for devine intervention. A nylon strap unit and much patience, finally did it. Slow and consistent force. However, it didn't look like a filter anymore.
@@pilot3016 I ended up buying a chain wrench. It crunched it up pretty good but it finally came off. Lots of colorful words were involved as well!
Can you use any washer from let’s say Lowe’s? Or just go to autozone?
It might work, but you really should be getting a washer for that purpose. They are "crush" style washers that are a lot softer than what you might find in a hardware store.
@@TheBTRGarage i actually ended up just getting one of those valve things that you can just switch on and off, so i am praying that it doesnt screw me over and wreck my engine haha. but thank you, that was a extremely quick reply.
Should be good if it came with its own washer/gasket. My Fumoto valve did.
BTR Justin yep! That’s actually the same one I just bought. Got it off amazon for like $23
Where did you get that torque spec for the drain bolt? I'm a torque wrench guy and have been searching for too long trying to find the official spec to no avail. Forum experts are all over the place adding to the confusion. In foot pounds i've seen the 7.3 listed as 4, 14, 23, 28, 32, and 52! WTF! And then a lot of those gutentight people too. The latter doesn't work for me because I end up gorilla arming everything haha😂!
I'm very particular about torque specs too and had the same problem. I used the info from dead head diesel primarily, along with my own experience with drain plugs on several cars. My BMW's are 32ft.lbs and those are also steel pans, so I knew it would be no higher than that. It's weird that there isn't a shop manual with the actual spec out there...also, after this video I installed a Fumoto valve instead of dealing with the drain plug ever again (amzn.to/3nw0I9e).
@@TheBTRGaragefumoto valves always for the win. Installing it on my 7.3 as this will be my first time doing his oil change. Been using fumoto valves for my vehicles for over 10 years!
First oil change I ever did was on this engine
Same i just got a 02 7.3 its a beast
My first was on a 1995 5.0 V8 EFI. I now own a 96 7.3 Powerstroke. 💪
Have you tried Arch Oil yet? I have a 03' 7.3 and Arch Oil is a great treatment for your 7.3!
Not yet, but I will be at my next oil change in a couple months!
I’ve used Archoil and RevX. I decided to go with HSS this time after Project Farm tested their fuel additive on RUclips and it smoked the competition even Stanadyne. They are obviously making a top of the line product
@@juker953 I'm switching also when I'm out of archoil.
did you change the hpop oil?
Yes, it shows it in the video.
@@TheBTRGarage tks
Try archoil great stuff
Use conventional oil and not synthetic oil as well for these are old school engines.
I hope your not putting gas into that diesel pusher
Changing the oil in the HPOP is a waste of time. By the time that engine cracks over a few times that oil in there is gone.
Where does the old oil go!?!?
That small amount of dirty oil recycling through the engine isn’t going to hurt anything if you change your oil and filter often.
I also believe in removing HPOP oil during each oil change. Old diesel oil is fuul of soot, somight as well get out as much s possible.
@@jpippinator Yes, you add 3 qts Dirty Oil to 15 qts New oil. Makes perfect sense? :/
A waste of time if you keep up on your oil changes.
I always heard it was better to drain a warm engine when doing an oil change?
It definitely helps drain more oil quicker, but not completely necessary. I do usually warm up the engine a little bit before any oil change, just be careful because everything is hot, including the oil.
@@TheBTRGarage Yeah, Some rubber gloves and its gravy.
hard cold start...plug it in thats what its for during cold weather
I did, and still had hard starting issues. Pretty sure I mention that in the video. In a later video, the root cause turned out to be a bad GPR.
It's a 7.3 when it's cold it's going to smoke a little bit you need to switch to rotella t6 and add archoil ar9100 but once you switch to a 5w40 don't be surprised when the ebpv starts leaking its best to just delete it
Thanks for the comment. I haven't heard of the ebpv yet, what's that? I considered the thinner oil but it doesn't get terribly cold here that often, so went with the 15W-40.
It's a valve in between the turbo and your downpipe it closes in colder weather for quicker warm ups the seals fail and leak once you switch to thinner oil it will be more noticeable
Exhaust Back Pressure Valve
a lot of good advice here but I would never tighten an oil filter with a tool ...your injectors probably just need shimmed
Exactly. I also don't use a removal tool, the filter is big enough to use a little muscle to get it out...especially when it wasn't tightened with a tool.
Came across this...bad advice to fill the oil filter with oil. If you get debris in there it gets pumped directly into your bearings.
I wish this prefilling practice would die. I take the filter out of the box and screw it on. I don’t mess around to get dirt and anything else in it.
Or rev max
Put a heater on it
Synthetic blend is terrible for 7.3 injectors
Don’t prefill oil filters. That’s dangerous for bearings, that oil filter fills and starts filtering within a couple seconds. You run the risk of dropping dirt, and debris directly on the clean side.
Thanks for the feedback, it makes sense. But, I've seen several other guides out and about who say it is "imperative" or "highly recommended" to fill the filter with oil first (on any vertical mounted filter). So, I can see both sides, but yes keeping it clean is a must if it is filled first.
I removed my drain plug and replaced it with a ball valve. I drain the oil directly into an empty gallon jug. No oil pan needed except a small one for the filter.
The ball valves are nice! I got one after recommendations on this video 😁
Glow plugs
Yep, follow up video I have the GPR replacement that was the root cause.
The HPOP is it's own oil system, holds 3 qts, 1 qt in res. 1qt in each cylinder head. Oil dead ends in the heads. RifRaff sells a cross over to fix this, here ya go www.riffraffdiesel.com/stainless-steel-hpx-99-03/
Notice how much more dirty the oil is in the HPOP also. I pull that one qt out and refill every oil change. It helps alot and saves the injectors.
First off you have a glow plug issue if not starting in wsrm/cold weather. Either the relay or glow plugs itself. And your wasting your time by ducking oil out of hpop. There's still 2gts left in oil galley in heads. To do that. Take plugs out of heads. Lol. Stiction eliminator is made for 6.0s which have spool valve. Which tends to gum up and stick. Unlike a 7.3 which has a poppet in injector. Snake oil that is.. your hiding other issues.. don't waste your time with changing hpop. It cycles the first 20 seconds of running.. my .02..
Thanks for the info! It did turn out to a flaking GPR, which I followed up with on another video. This service did help though.