Sony PVM 1341 CRT Wavy Image ... Full Deflection and Power Recap ... Squiggly Ghosting Smearing
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2022
- In this video I troubleshoot squiggly smearing wavy image in a Sony PVM-1341 CRT monitor. After swapping multiple boards I end up doing a full deflection circuit recap along with the power board.
music by zapsplat 
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Thank you so much for this video. Got a Sony KV-27fs120 with this same issue. Looks like I will recap the PSU and Deflection boards on it while doing an RGB mod.
Thanks.
Been having trouble with squigglies on another VGA monitor.
I'm glad there is a solution, really tough finding vids on this specific issue.
Yeah... Sadly we are at that time when crt components start going bad (30 yrs on this pvm) Damn i feel old lol
This was really helpful even on a non PVM as I have several crts with the squiggles, and hadn’t seen a good guide of how to determine which caps were bad. Love the channel!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching!
Post Malone of crt monitor services,lol. You are amazing dude!
Thanks for the kind words, I tend to just think im lame and had too much time on my hands lol
Man this gives me motivation to keep some sets I have that clearly need to get recapped. Then got some other sets are gonna be obviously due for it soon.
another good thing is... the job gets easier and easier each time you do one, and I started a couple years ago with no experience on how to recap anything so you can definitely do it!
Around 6:30 in when you were talking about everything that didn’t work I could not contain my laughter man I’ve been there before great video
Lol, yup.... These things seem like alot of trial and error untill you get a feeling of whats going on.
Ill let you know when I get that feeling 🤣
So satisfying to watch! If you're open to a request: I'd love to see side by side comparison shots of before and after
Love the content keep it coming
Thanks I appreciate it! I have a purity ring video, RGB mux mod vid, and a big PVM and consumer monster CRT haul vid incoming
Awesome stuff. I've recapped most of the deflection side in a Panasonic set. There's some horizontal droop at the top of the screen (definitely not yoke). But for the one cap that I believe to be the culprit I do not have a replacement for. Fingers crossed it's the one that sorts it.
I hate it when Im missing one value of a cap lol
Nuts like you dawg.
Wooow beautifulll 👍👍👍👍
this is great video to me. Thanks for diagnostic those image problem - I have similar problem on Sony TV and it would be capacitor problem for sure. I wish I have some soldering skill though LOL
You can learn to solder by practicing on junk electronics boards.
I got a video for people looking to get started soldering as well.
Thanks for watching!
👏👊 Great content!
Thanks!
Love your videos
Thanks! Appreciate the support!
@@LameGaming not a worry! Keep up the great work!
You know I'm up in here!!
LOL, Its a quick and shitty video edit but better than nothing I guess.
Love the content! Trying to get my 1342q up to snuff! You don't happen to have a cap list for the 134x series handy do you?
I have the PVM-1341 and it needs a bit of adjustments on the geometry and a recap in the future. Planning on modding it to have audio in for the RGB inputs (found a reddit thread that has the deets) with a toggle switch to either enable or disable the audio for the RGB inputs.
It's a great set for gaming and for connecting computers to it (older 9-pin video).
They are nice. I wanted to look into an HR tube swap and put that info out in a video. I have a 1341 with a 600 tvl tube and its great, and I believe no mods required but still trying to hunt another tube down for testing
@@LameGaming RGB is clear as a bell and unfortunately, the composite and S-video modes have a blue tint on the display. I'm guessing the B board is to blame here. Have you worked on that board in the past and is it a pain in the butt to repair it? And that would be below the power supply board, correct?
@@RetroPCUser I just remember when recapping the deflection circuit on the main a board that the whole left side was for color matrix and had some small sister boards.
I dont use anything but rgb on my pvms mostly but I know theres a switch for disabling red and green guns when using composite or s-video for calibrating the image.
I wonder if your switch is bad or a component on that circuit causing that to be stuck on ?
@@LameGaming I adjusted the color burst control and it has the black color this time. Composite and S-video are a lot better than they did. Tested it again this morning and it still has the correct color.
It doesn't hurt to order capacitors for this thing and all of them look pretty good for a set that's 31 years old. Even the tube is pretty sharp.
Do you have a background working on these sets/with electronics? I’ve been doing lots of research on it to try to attempt it myself, but am debating if it should just be left to the pros.
Nope, just crazy enough to have kept troubleshooting lol.
Took basic electronics theory at a community college when I was younger, have since forgotten it all lol.
The good thing is nowadays theres so much info on youtube you can self teach yourself pretty quickly.
I started out building an arcade cab which was just basic wiring, then I had alot of old game consoles I wanted recapped but had no clue about any of it.
My advice is, if your patient, mechanically inclined, and have the time you can get a decent soldering and desoldering setup for around $250 for both. Having decent equipment will get you 50% ahead of the learning curve.
Then just practice good technique soldering/desoldering on old electronics you dont care about. Watch alot of videos.
Thats how I started, just recapping consoles and doing mods, then moved to crt's.
I went from total noob to repairing everything on my channel and more within about a year.
It can be daunting at first but every project you do will boost your confidence and teach you new things.
I was going to make a soldering basics video but working alot of hours lately.
I've been thinking about recapping a D-Series tv. It's 22 years old now and is probably well over due for a recap don't you think? It's minor but the geometry is a little wonky in some spots. Mostly in the corners where it curves outward. The image doesn't seem as crisp as it should be even when adjusting focus. Pretty sure it's a Thomson A tube as well so no purity rings on the yoke. The white levels, black levels, and colors are still fine but it can be tricky trying to calibrate them just right. All of these issues sound like aging caps to me.
My main question is, should I recap the whole tv or just the deflection side? There's 3 boards. The main board, the AV board where the composite, s-video, component inputs are connected to, and a mystery third board. Not sure what it does but it's very small with a few caps on it. The AV board has about 50 or so caps but they are the smaller diameter kind. 1uf, 10uf, 47uf, stuff like that.
It's hard to get a straight answer from people about this stuff. Some people will help but are behind a paywall which is not cool IMO. Any advice you have I will greatly appreciate.
I just recently did a 36" jvc pre d-series.... Recap and rgb mux mod, wasnt many caps at all.
Id do the power and deflection side of the board, they are the ones that get hard useage. Would do caps on neckboard while your at it.
And yeah, i noticed the same thing about not getting answers... Thats why I started the channel. Wish I had more time to make/edit videos
I have a 14m4e with this problem, and like you said, worse on high contrast.
Id replace the larger caps in the deflection circuit minimum and see if that clears it up.
Do CRT's with low hours need to be recapped as well? I have a Toshiba 27af45 with less than 1 year of total hours and picture looks flawless.
Im assume they can dry out over time causing esr to increase but im sure it happens much faster with heavy use/dust and heat cycles.
Depends on the caps used as well.... I have a consumer set I swear had almost no hours on it because the tube is crazy vibrant but had cheap caps on the board and I had to replace a handful from power and deflection circuits.
Do you have to discharge any of the individual capacitors before you desolder them? I'm going to try to recap my kv27fs120, and I've discharged the tube, but nervous about touching some of the larger caps.
Yeah, that esr meter has an auto discharge but I just use a large resistor to bleed the charge because I read a comment about a guy frying his meter by discharging a large cap
I wonder if you can convert a normal television CRT into a vector CRT (a sort of Vectrex-anywhere kinda thing)
I dont know, would be cool but I never was into vector games much
Hi, May I ask from where were you able to source those Nichocon PT series caps? The big ones. Thanks!
All the caps came from mouser.
Good content. Love the videos.
This might be a shot in the dark but I have a PVM-1342Q that needs some work. Would you be willing to discuss taking on the job?
Wish I had the time. Been working 60+ hours a week out of town 😢
@@LameGaming understandable! I appreciate the reply. Either way keep up the dope videos
You do any repairs for costumers ? Great content I'm a new subscriber
Honestly I just got into console and crt repair out of boredom after the company I worked for closed down from 'rona , ive thought about offering services in the future but need to get back to work first and establish what schedule I will be on.
If i do offer services in the future I will announce it here.
Thanks for the support!
Great job! Do you have the list of cap to recap?
Thanks, I would just replace all caps in the deflection and power circuits.
Turns out my PVM issues was due to caps as well. I got some replacement caps from savon pat, but I don’t have any soldering tools. Would you have any suggestions or recommendations for tools I should use?
ruclips.net/video/EAvMczWKDII/видео.html
@@LameGaming Oh nice! Thanks for the guide 👍
Lol, I just don't bother checking the caps. I just order the lot and replace them all in one weekend. 😂🎉
Yeah, I do that with consumer sets since there usually is alot less, with pvms its a safe bet I think to just do the deflection and power circuits but a full recap is great too if you have the time.
hey, do you have a cap list? i have the same pvm and mine doesn’t display video over anything but s video… i know it’s only tangentially related but i do want to do a full recap since my unit seems to have had heavy use
I thought about posting a cap list for some of these models but anymore when I go to mouser ive had to make a ton of substitutions going up in voltage rating because caps are out of stock etc.... Its really best to just record whats on your board and order whats available.... Ive even seen discrepencies between service manuals and whats on the board.
I might have the last list for a 1341 scribbled down somewhere though, ill check
The 42Q/43MD/44Q are all 600TVL... lord I'd have to think about the tube part number differences for the 41.
Which part number is in there? M34KBE20X or M34KBE30X?
Yeah my 44q has a 600tvl tube thats why I was surprised when one of my 1341s had a 600tvl tube.
I have all the tube numbers written down somewhere...... The 600tvl tube in this 1341 came from a sony cga monitor.
Found another of these tubes new in the box on ebay for $100. I should of jumped on it but shipping was $150 so procrastinated and it sold 😖
Havnt been able to find another. I have a couple dim tube 1341s Id like to resurrect.... Seems it likely wont happen now, sony tubes are hard to come by.
I was hoping even a sony consumer 13" tube would be compatible but havnt had time to investigate.
Start a Patreon ill support a little a month. You have good info
That means alot.... Thank you!
Sadly the new job is out of town so not alot of free time but pays good. I need to work it for a while but eventually within the next year or two want to transition to working part time and get more involved with electronics repair and focusing on my yt content.
Thanks for the support!
Can you say what is the name of the equipment you used to verify Cap. and where did you buy it? thaxx
Its a Peak atlas esr70, I got mine from digikey but id shop around and see who has it the cheapest
So main problem is on powersupply part right?
If picture show like this just recap power supply part should fix?
Or mainly deflection part ?
Do you use your spare part to swap again.
Thats an excellent question. Since I found bad or out of spec caps in both boards I recapped both and put them both back in at the same time. I should of just tested what would happen with just running the recapped chassis board and/or just the recapped psu to pinpoint which board caused the issue to begin with but had MANY hours wrapped up in this monitor at that point and probably just wanted to be done so did not even cross my mind to test.
I can replace components in my sleep but still pretty wet behind the ears when it comes to electronics theory and reading schematics but I would go out on a limb to say I suspect the issue was in the deflection circuit.
The power supply caps esr readings were a little high but none of them were flat out shot or bad like the majority of large caps in the deflection circuit.
I was told c535 was directly responsible for this issue and indeed c535 was toast in both boards which is right near the flyback transformer.
Also, savonpat sells cap kits for pvms and they usually just include a hand full of caps for the deflection circuit that are known to cause issues. But for close to the same price you are able to record and order your own cap kit from mouser that can recap entire deflection and psu boards.
I you have the same issue and want to do the easiest approach first I would start by just replacing all the larger caps in deflection circuit. Especially near heatsinks as those take on alot of heat.
Its probably not necessary to replace all the tiny .1uf .47uf 1uf 10uf low voltage caps on that side of the board as i have not really ever seen them fail.
Is reducing contrast not necessarily a fix to vertical line squiggles?
I think reducing contrast can take the strain off of out of spec caps but its a temporary fix
I'm just curious if the reason that most of the recaps I see are PVMs is because it's expensive to do a recap, therefore not justifiable on a consumer set or is it just because it's not worth the time?
I'm interested in rebuilding the TV that I have or even just doing an old junky one for practice. Although I don't want to do it if it's going to cost me like two or $300 per unit.
Ive recapped 3 of my consumer sets. Consumer sets are super cheap and quick to recap.... Only a hand full of caps. Pvms are a nightmare in comparison. Checkout my rgb mux mod vids.... I mention recapping them but dont show it i dont think but its only 5-10 caps usually so super easy. Just focus on the deflection circuits, power, and neckboard.
Some of the latemodel consumer sets had alot of caps too though, i fully recapped a sony fs120, it was over 100 caps. Was a waste of time and money but a good learning experience.... Id start with a 90s shadowmask set.... Should be a minimal amount of caps in power,deflection,neck/colordrive
Did this improve the black levels or colours at all?
My 1342q has greyish blacks and flickers with bright colours (like on a full white screen)
Sounds like its g2 is being overdriven, set your brightness and contrast to middle, then adjust the g2 screen pot untill black levels are black and image looks good.
Are you seeing retrace lines as well?
@@LameGaming i'll tell you bro i got the g2 and sub bright pots both set at the lowest setting. when i put on the backlit zone test from 240p test suite, i see like 2 or 3 grey lit spots that end up brightening the whole black image
no retrace lines, and otherwise the image looks good (just that 60hz flickering with bright colors)
i had a repair shop recap this set too...
@@ComputerTechnic217 So you can get your black levels good but theres spots on the screen that are lighter and washed out?
A video or picture would probably help understand the issue.
Man, I was afraid that the squiggly lines were caused by bad caps... I have a 32" widescreen Panasonic that I've been meaning to sell but I just confirmed that it has a bad case of the squigglies. It doesn't really show while playing games so it hasn't bothered me, but the 240p Test Suite reveals the issue clearly. I've been meaning to sell the set, but I dunno if anyone wants to buy it if it means having to recap it. I also got a smaller 4:3 Trinitron to replace it as my main CRT, but apparently it too has the same issue, albeit as not so severe (yet).
Yeah, sadly in the near future any working reliable crt's will have had maintenance done to them.
Dude I have a couple of HDTVs with HDMI and both have problems of overscaling that can't be fixed with their service mode. DO you think this can be fixed?
I just recently got a widescreen toshiba HD crt with hdmi and been playing around with it connected to my pc through a scaler that downscales 1080p to 1080i.... I get edges of the image cut off but pretty sure its from running 16:9 aspect ratio content on the 16:10 aspect hd tv
Hi, I have same problem Kv-27fs120
I fully recapped a 27fs120 in another video but it did not have this problem, it had jittering I tried to get rid of.
A esr meter can help you determine if your caps are bad or way out of spec.
Thanks for watching.
I have a 1942Q and it looks 1:1, do you think the cap list might work with my model?
Keep doing what you do!
The manual I have is for the 1341,1342q,1343md and doesnt mention the 1942 so I would find your models manual or even better.... record the caps by hand.
I notice discrepancies between the manuals and the actual boards on almost every set ive done, so I would just get in there and record the handful of caps in the deflection circuit and plan to replace those and either test or plan to test/recap the power board in the not too distant future as well.
@@LameGaming did you swap out all the film capacitors also or just the cylinder caps?
@@saltymanos only the electrolytic caps in the deflection and power areas
@@LameGaming on the A board did you recap the vertical deflection also or just horizontal?
@@saltymanos both...
ibb.co/2gwjt07
You wouldn't happen to have a capacitor list?
Maybe a hand drawn one but i recently moved and all my stuff is still in boxes. They are in the service manual though.