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Sony CRT Recap Part 2 , Capacitors Replaced, Yoke Reseat,TV Tuner Bypass ,Geometry Calibration fs120
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- Опубликовано: 2 янв 2022
- Part 2 of the Sony Trinitron Consumer CRT recap and calibration.
In this video I finish up where I left off in part 1. All 120 capacitors are replaced trying to rid a dot-crawl,ringing,sync jitter artifact. After recap I reseat and adjust the yoke and straighten out geometry through the service menu.
After having to pull the board to put in shorter power filter caps I decide to disable Hsync and composite signals from the tv tuner from reaching the jungle chip on a suggestion from someone with a long history in crt repair.
He explained to me that Hsync from the tuner is not always filtered out properly from the jungle chip and could cause some cross talk interference.
Ive also learned Sony deviated from prior specs of sync frequencies and so on these later model flat sonys you get this sometimes with older consoles and that ps2 and ps3's wont have the jitter due to the sync frequency tolerances.
Im using mister fpga and hoped the signal was clean and within spec of this set. Its too early to tell if the tuner bypass worked or not, I need to test more.
Also- I forgot to mention I also physically disabled velocity modulation from the neck board, and thanks to ElectronAsh for the info on disabling the TV tuner!
Part 1... • Sony CRT KV27FS120 Rec...
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Part 2 of the Sony Trinitron Consumer CRT recap and calibration.
In this video I finish up where I left off in part 1. All 120 capacitors are replaced trying to rid a dot-crawl,ringing,sync jitter artifact. After recap I reseat and adjust the yoke and straighten out geometry through the service menu.
After having to pull the board to put in shorter power filter caps I decide to disable Hsync and composite signals from the tv tuner from reaching the jungle chip on a suggestion from someone with a long history in crt repair.
He explained to me that Hsync from the tuner is not always filtered out properly from the jungle chip and could cause some cross talk interference.
Ive also learned Sony deviated from prior specs of sync frequencies and so on these later model flat sonys you get this sometimes with older consoles and that ps2 and ps3's wont have the jitter due to the sync frequency tolerances.
Im using mister fpga and hoped the signal was clean and within spec of this set. Its too early to tell if the tuner bypass worked or not, I need to test more.
Also- I forgot to mention I also physically disabled velocity modulation from the neck board, and thanks to ElectronAsh for the info on disabling the TV tuner!
Part 1... ruclips.net/video/Bg4-sKPuQpI/видео.html
That TVs geometry is stupidly good for being a giant flat panel. I have a WUGE ass Sony WEGA. So I know how wonky they can be. Great work! And resource
Good to see it ended up in decent shape 👍I got one of those 27 inch Sonys for about 20 quid a few years ago. Got it home and saw that what looked like the focus was out in the corners of the screen. It had a shit load of hours on it. It also had like a green blur to it in the corners that looked different to what you'd normally see with a convergence issue. The centre of the screen was perfect.
Took the back off it and no matter what I did I could not get the focus/convergence consistent. This set had quite sophisticated convergence pots on the yoke and neckboard and some decent pots on the flyback.
I even made some extra convergence strips for it. I gave it a cap kit and still no improvement. I bought a new flyback for it as well.
Then one day one of the colours failed. I had the back off off it and was having a poke around and out of nowhere my solder fell from wherever it was and the end of the roll shorted across components on the main board.
There was a puff of smoke from the neckboard of all places and the TV clicked off. So ended the life of that particular Sony.
It never saw its new flyback 🎻
Damn, thats sad to hear after all that work you put in it. Ive recently got this 27" sony serviced, a 36" jvc recapped and rgb modded, and several pvms recapped but havnt had time to even turn one on in weeks :(
Took a new job and forced 60hrs a week.
I think ill work it untill my house is paid off then get a part time jobby in town and get back to crt repair... Maybe make a side job out of it
Thanks for making the video. I have a KV-27FS100 and a KV-27FS120. I think the 120 might need a recap, so it's super helpful to have videos like these.
Hello friend, I have a question regarding whether the jitter disappeared when removing resistor 063 that you show in the video. I have two TVs with ba-6 chassis with this jitter defect and I would like to try it.
I wish every repair was as easy as just replacing capacitors, in my experience they are hardly ever bad in sony equipment, dot crawl is what happens with NTSC sets, our PAL sets don't have it.
Enjoyed this. Don’t worry, the XP you earned is priceless even if you didn’t get the desired results. I’ve been working up to doing some recapping and your vid boosted my confidence that I could do it but also helped temper my expectations. Seems to me the reality is that these flat CRTs are just never going to be perfect, on the whole. I’ve pretty much stopped going after flats as I’ve had much better success with curved sets as far as geo/convergence/linearity. I like the novelty of curved screens anyway. Feels more authentic and definitely takes me back to them old days when I play on them. There’s a charm the flat bois just don’t have.
BTW, I’ve corrected worse looking geometry using magnets on the back of the tube. If you catch another case of the OCDs just get yourself a bunch of different kinds of magnets, tape them to card stock strips and go wild. You might be surprised what you can do. I have found that the key is finding the right magnet strength.
I totally agree about the curved tube preference. Every curved tube Ive recapped showed improved geometry, or the very least....stable geometry afterwards, and your right.... curvies tend to have way better geometry and convergence. I did play around with magnets some on this flat sony but called good enough on it.
I think really anybody could recap if they had the right tools and a little patience. A decent cheap temp control machine, some good solder and flux, and a cheap vac desoldering unit is all thats really required in my opinion..... and patience lol.
Great video
This reminds me of my triple tube crt projector setups that I used to install in AV rooms.
Setup and mounting to the ceiling took minutes, converging x3 CRT tubes to create one image could take hours to get good results.
How I miss those happy days
Ive never had the pleasure of messing with a crt projector, sounds like a great time lol. Thanks for watching!
Wanted to say thanks for the video, I found the shmups thread at this point but I was adjusting my convergence recently and unfortunately just then noticed the horizontal jitter- this was the first video I saw googling for it. It really is cursed knowledge, I had never shoved my face close enough to the screen before to see it haha.
Lol, yup.... Its one of those things you dont see untill you know to look for it and then you cant unsee it 😁
Well done. Always a pain in the ass messing around with the geometry
Thank you so much for the video, my sony erga is plagu this weirdo jittering issue, its an EU wega BX-1 chassus,
gahhh...that was funny - no sunglasses needed...I'm sending out a KV 40KBR700 for recap to a another gent. that thing is a beast. Geometry seemed pretty good so going to try recap to fix the 'red/blue/green' issue (hopefully0
Awesome video man. You dialed that in Sony amazingly despite the sub-par geometry you started with. I have a 13in pvm with one wonky corner and terrible convergence. Way worse than your giant trinitron. It’s also great to know that those jitters won’t necessarily be fixed with new caps. Earned a sub
Thank you! I just finished calibrating the convergence rings on a 13" pvm and got the center good but edges are separating a bit. Ill probably call it good for now until I decide to recap it... Geometry and convergence can really trigger ocd and drive you crazy lol
Remind me a similar issue with a d9800. I fixed it with a cheap wand coil degausser/demagnetizer
Good video. I'm going to tackle this project with one of my Trinitrons soon.
Best of luck, even if it doesnt fix any inherent ussues its still nice to know you elongated the life of your set
@@LameGaming thinks for letting me know that. It's a kd32fs170. Geometry is horrible wavy lines along the sides and bowing at the top
@@Tiknuttle If you dont have a good esr meter and this is a "one and done" type of project, I would suggest just replacing the deflection and power circuit caps
@@LameGaming Thanks. I'll have to get the required equipment. What if the capacitors are shot though?
@@Tiknuttle Any bad ones that would cause geometry or picture issues will be in those circuits.
I like to fold one leg only, solder and trim the straight leg while making sure the cap is oriented how I want it, then straighten the bent lead and solder that. This will help if I need to desolder in the future since it’s difficult to get bent leads into a desolder iron nozzle/tip. It also means I get a more useful trimmed component leg to use as a jumper or something.
Im never touching this board again 🤣🤣🤣
But yeah your right, theres insertion ways that are more mindful for future repairs but with 120 caps I just wanted to get this done. I may try a different method on the next recap though which will probably be on a 1341 pvm.
13:56 Looks like you had it pretty good here to me. You need to just bring in that red part a little bit in the service menu so that it's not quite as cut off as you have it and it should have adequate geometry. Not perfect but adequate.
Hey try setting the channel to either 3 or 4 when it's in tv mode. It might sound weird but I had mine on like 60 something because I don't pay attention to it and I think the wilder static on that channel number was bringing in interference making that gittery effect worse on video 1, 2, and 3.
Ive disabled the tv tuner signals from the video encoder ic
@@LameGaming Oh my bad I missed that part, that's cool that you can do that. Set looks pretty damn good at the end if you ask me!
@@overkill7990 No prob, it was a last minute decision to cut signals from the tuner. Electronash told me what components to terminate signals at, i cant take any credit lol. Its pretty decent after alot of service menu adjustments.
Im liking this 36" jvc alot better though. It has nearly perfect geometry and convergence with a thompson arcade tube, just rgb modded it a while ago. It feels like a giant pvm.... Definately one of my favorite tubes
Your Trinitron looks great!
Thanks! It sure didnt start off that way lol
You can fix that corner with some magnets, had same issue and fixed it like that
Thanks for the mention. ;)
Thanks for the help disabling the tuner signals!
Hows the open source crt project going?
I have a kv-20fs120 and am having that same jitter issue that you show.
Yea , sadly its a flaw of certain models with this chassis, best advice is try to unsee the jitters even though its impossible 😖
I got the 36 inch model of this and boy I'd like to pay someone to do this for me.
Yeah, it was a pretty big (insane) job lol
Whoa bro!! I didn't make you do anything!! Besides no one will recognize the name here anyways!! Good stuff even if you feel it was useless. You gained the experience and now I can send my arcade monitor chassis to you.
LOL, how many caps are on it?
@@LameGaming in all honesty I have to idea. I’m pretty sure I can do it myself, I’m just unsure about the orientation of the caps.
@@Undar8ed03 Im going to message you lol
Honestly if I die and it goes to the static like on a old TV set I wouldn't be that butthurt it might be strangely comforting
Nice work. Is removing the flyback an issue after removing the anode cap, or will it be drained of its energy storage as well? Thank you sir
As long as its not plugged in, the only thing to discharge is the tube and large power caps. If the flyback had a charge it would be discharged when your grounded discharge tool is stuck under the rubber anode cap.
Thanks for watching!
great video! I was thinking about recapping SONY 27inch TV because of jitters what you described in video. It has weird jitters or shimmering on each pixel. I may do same as you removed jungle chip signal(TV signal)... does it make any visible difference ?
I wish I can play someone like you to do my TV recap.. in dallas, TX area :)
Sadly im far away in the midwest.
It did appear to help some but did not do alot of testing because shortly after this recap I got a boatload of pvm's and a jvc 36" that I rgb modded and use it as my main crt now.
Great set of videos! Any updates on the dot crawl / horizontal jitter? I have the same thing on a KV-32XBR250 and am wondering if I’ll ever be able to fix it.
The tuner signal bypass seemed to help some. After completing this crt i moved on to do a couple rgb mux mods and a 36" jvc kind of dethroned this sony so I havnt used it much since these vids
That pixel jitter at about 11:30 (IDK what else to call it, I know there aren't pixels), I had that issue on all four of my consumer trinitrons. It drove me crazy enough to get rid of all of them. It's true what you say about being spoiled by pvms. None of my sony pvms do that, nor my jvc pvms. Also, none of my other consumer crts do it either (jvc, toshiba). Shame really, could never figure why that's a thing. If you ever find a fix, I'd love to know it because I'd hate to write off consumer trinis for good. But after going 4 for 4, I may not get another. Glad I found this video though, because I almost did a recap on one of them.
Yeah, its def not an issue on any of my pro monitors or other brands. I think it was just certain late model chassis consumer sonys that had integrated video processors. I got a few early curved sony trinis recently that im going to rgb mod and didnt notice it on them.
Disabling VM and the tuner signal helped but didnt completely get rid of it. I wonder if its just a design flaw of these certain chassis
@@LameGaming Good to know about those curved trinis not having that issue. Been keeping an eye open for one of those myself with the intention of rgb modding. I have yet to find one in good enough shape, been looking for a few years. Cool tip on the tuner signal, I may try that on some of my other consumer crts.
yea i just got this tv and got the same jitter its driving me nuts especialy trying to read text / pause menus . might just not even use this tv becaus of it. i been trying to figure out if i can do anything to fix it, but seems like nope.
@@zeebpc Turn off or disable VM, I cant remember but think I talked about it in the video. Some said you can mitigate it by adjusting the screen rotation in the menu or service menu (cant remember which its in) but that had no effect for me either.
Disabling the tuner signals helped some but not completely and maybe some of it was even placebo.... Theres a thread on shmups about this issue as well. No 100% cure as far as I know.
You did this all to fix something that can’t be fixed?
very good afternoon, I admire you and I love your videos! I was encouraged to write to ask you a question. I have 2 crt tvs, a 21-inch hikato and a 21-inch sony trinitron too. The trinitron just so happens to look pretty cool. the wii and gamecube games look excellent. ps1 and ps2 the same. but it happens to me that the image shakes. It's like that effect that the letters that say video 1 video 2 dvd have in the upper left corner, only here it's all over the screen, especially in the letters. Sometimes I'm reading and it makes me dizzy. I play with generic component cables (I'm collecting for retrovision hd cables) but I've done the test with the original composite cables and the same thing happens. what should it be? Could it be the capacitors? The truth is that it hurts me that it is like this since the image looks spectacular. my hikato doesn't have that problem, the image hardly shakes, I use that with emulators on the wii to play nes, snes, genesis, etc. with the component cable so they look better.
I love electronics, I recently bought a new soldering station to practice and improve, you are a great reference for me! I hope you are very well and I send you a big hug 🙌
Thanks for watching , I havnt been able to upload or edit anything lately since im working 60 hrs a week out of town 😖
If your sure it isnt the cables then it wouldnt hurt to open her up and check the esr of caps and for any other potential problems like cold solder joints.
Also ive heard of ac mains interference if using poorly shielded cables, have you tried a different location/outlet?
Alot of newer sonys had a sync jitter like the one in this video, is yours similar or way worse?
@@LameGaming Gracias por su respuesta amigo! espero te vaya bien en tu trabajo. lo de la interferencia tambien lo escuche. me recomendaron un UPS FORZA pero no se que tan factible sea. me gustaria comprobarlo pero son un poco caros. probare de momento en otra toma de corriente ya que tengo un extensor chino de calidad regular. al sync jitter te refieres a lo que muestras en esta parte del video (10:58). si es asi es similar de hecho me sorprendio verlo en tu video porque es muy parecido la forma en que tiemblan las letras.
Hello, my name is Raymond, I am from the Dominican Republic and I have one of those 27-inch CRT televisions and I want to change the capacitors and I would like to know if you could leave me in a message the list of capacitors that I use to buy them please
I cant guarantee I still have the list but if if I do I can email it to you.
If your going to have the board out anyway it doesnt take long to write down the caps to replace.
I would just replace the caps in the power and deflection circuits. Those take the most abuse and the others are likely fine.
i tried this to my 24fs100 and i think the snowstorm got worse lol idk why these tvs are so popular looks ass to me
Maybe the issue was wrong value capacitors, probably should have followed the manual. Try?
It would be a good experiment but I assume at the factory if some caps were out of stock then the next higher value were substituted when permissible.
I may look into this more in the future though. Good question!