Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
This is the kind of guy you want as a best friend, seems pretty great. Video as well done, not like those others who love to hear themselves talk, this guy cuts to the Chase and gives you exactly what you need to know, well done!
I got the 12K unit for my wife's sewing room I built. It's 441 sq-ft. I haven't installed it yet, but it will cool it nicely. The 12K BTU unit is the largest one that is powered by 120 vac/20 amp. The next higher one is 18K, and it takes 240 vac/20 amp... fyi.FYI. I'm putting the same 12K unit in my 450 sq-ft shop. Thanks for the video!!
I really like your videos and watched most if not all of them. I bought the Mr. Cool 4th Gen 2400 btu unit for my shop about the same time you made this one. I am ready to connect the refrigerant hoses and thought I ran into a snag until I watched this video...cleared that up for me. I need 10 feet or less of flex conduit and wires. Heading for Lowes in a bit. Since you didn't show the 240 VAC part of the install, I'll be figuring it out on my own. I was in Navy electronics for 25 years and worked on a lot of systems 110, 240, and higher in RADAR. When I retired from the Navy, I went on to install DC systems, 110 and 240 VAC systems in the cell phone world for a while, so I am comfortable hooking the Mr. Cool up. I just wished I had the sense to check out this video before I started my DIY job, I think it would have gone a lot smoother.
it's very wise to put the anchors through the hole first to see if they fit, the anchors in his video seem awfully thin but maybe his unit has different sized holes than my mrcool. for me 3/8ths fit super easily through my half inched holes.
also check your instructions, there's a drain pipe that can go on the bottom that you can buy drain hose for to route the water it dumps out during the winter. water apparantly comes out from the compressor during the winter, and from the indoor heads during the summer (manual said to route the drain hose as vertical as possible from the compressor to avoid it freezing).
I’m looking at doing a 4 zone DIY mr cool setup with the ceiling cassettes. Was a super intimidating idea, but now I’m quickly becoming excited about the project. Thanks for the informative video!
you should wrap the uv tape from bottom to top, lets water fall down it rather than right into the sleeves. the lineguard should hopefully protect it though. also looks like you may not have wrapped the signal wire in conduit, you might be fine most here on youtube dont, but the manual says to do it and all 4th gen units come with it in conduit now. i used liquidtight conduit, which is stiff and annoying but is the only "easy" way to do it, just may want to drill that 3.5in hole a bit further to the right and down to accomodate the conduit. the template at least didnt work so well for us, we had to leave the conduit unscrewed to fit it all through the hole (ziptied but still not ideal). Also you should be checking for leaks after you hook power up in addition to before you hook the power up, you put the sound deadening stuff on the connections too early. mrcool should just make a proper install video, but this is all in the manual. just with varying degrees of specificity
I'm from south Louisiana and have a metal building just like yours, set up with woodworking tools (table saw, drum sander, jointer etc). I don't have any insulation yet and have been trying to decide on what to do! It was friggin HOT in that shop this past summer. I understand the pain LOL! My question is, would you have done anything different? I was thinking about those DIY spray foam kits to do just the ceiling, and the Bluetex bubble like you have for the walls. I suppose anything is "better" than having sweating shop cast iron surfaces in winter, and 110* air from a fan blowing on me like an oversized blow dryer in the summer. Thanks in advance, keep up the progress!
@shaunadams5201 what i have is working well, I started with the bubble insulation then added the mini split which was a game changer!! And as I finish out the shop putting plywood on the walls ive also been adding additional foam board insulation behind the plywood! I
Question for you about this system how is it on the electric bill cooling and heating your garage? I’m looking into building a metal shop like yours and was just wondering
Great video. Question: I’ve heard other people say that the left over lines néed to be laying horizontal. Is there a expert who knows if it’s okay to leave them vertical ?
Great video and very applicable to my situation since I too have a metal garage similar to yours and I am thinking of the 36K unit. I have a question for you though. Where you are mounting the inside unit between two steel studs with your wood frame, what distance are your metal studs spaced? Mine are 49" which doesn't look like the inside unit would fit between them, especially the angled support braces. Thanks again for your excellent video!
Wow I didn't realize Mr Cool made a single zone 36k unit. 16 SEER is lower than I expected. I bet two 18k heads would be more efficient but maybe not worth the extra installation hassle and incrementally higher cost.
Considering installing one of these on my RV. The rooftop unit works but it's so inefficient because the evaporator is outside and the condenser sits next to it. Having the two split apart actually would make it significantly cooler in the RV
Question for you, I have 3 of these in a 40x70 14 foot tall. The heat at the top of the roof inside you can feel it radiating down. Do you have this issue in your building? And if so have you thought about some sort of vents.
Great video! I just ordered mine for our shop and I've got a question: How did you decide on where in the building to install it? Was it all based on proximity to your power box or did you try and center it as much as possible? Any input would be much appreciated!
Honestly it was the only logical spot I had. Tried to make sure it was in a spot that would blow towards the center of the shop thinking that would cool everything the best! Really worked out to where I wanted the exterior unit and trying to get it centered . Just my thought I really don't know what's best
Awesome vid. Looking to get the 36k unit myself for my shop. I have high ceilings too, so hope it does ok. Quick note before someone else gives u crap...you referred to the power disconnect as a transfer switch. Transfer switches are used with standby generators to transfer power supply from the grid to the generator. :)
So how do ya like it so far? There seems to be a lot of mixed reviews on Mr Cool minisplits, and who knows if the bad reviews are just trash talkers or if they are genuine issues. I know its hot, but have you tried the heat function, just to make sure the reversing valve, etc works ok? I'm looking to get the same unit you have or maybe the 4th gen.
I've used both mini splits and central. For me personally I prefer a central hvac over mini splits. Main reason is just overall comfort in every single room in your house including all bathrooms, walk in closets and utility rooms. To get that level of comfort with mini splits it would require a head per every room in the house which would be extremely expensive and wouldn't make sense when you can just go with one large HVAC system for the whole house. The other con going with mini splits especially on an already existing home is all the line sets running all around the outside of house especially if you're going with multiple heads which is a major eyesore. For larger homes you definitely want to go central. I live near Nashville and every builder of a new construction house is still going with central because of the same reasons. Really not that much of a price difference on electric bill as most people think because you're still not heating or cooling all those smaller rooms in the house. A central hvac distributes all air evenly throughout every room in the house.
I don't disagree but all your examples are for multi room application or whole home application. This is one room so cheaper system + diy install = Perfectt for me
Question for you. I have a 30x60 shop but will only be cooling 30x45 of it. My ac guy told me that that the 36000 btu wouldn't cool it like I think. Do you have this issue in your shop and what size of a area are you cooling?
I'm cooling 1600 sqft. And it works great. Takes some time to cool down from high temp but I've had my shop down to 75 on a 98 degree day. You could always go with a dual setup with 1 outdoor unit and 2 wall units in 2 different spots
@@michaelconstable5100 I didn't run the electrical myself but the instruction will tell you what size wire you need depending on what size unit you get.
@@PatriotDIY so I literllsy just got home and turned it on. It was colder, but then it shut off and we got the "EC" error code. So a refrigerant leak, apparently. At least we know the problem now. Thanks for your help!
Ummmmm. I poured the soap in it myself lol, guess I should have shown that in the video??? Also, Mr Cool literally tells you to coil up the excess line and shows a picture illustrating it in the instruction manual.....so....ur wrong! ;-)
@@PatriotDIY Ask anybody that does HVAC work. You dont coil those lines. They say that because a diyer cant do any better and thats the market there after. After a couple years you will see when that unit fails permanently from oil starvation and its out of warranty.
@@PatriotDIY trolling? sounds gay to me. If you dont believe what I have told you research it. Remember Mr Cool is for the diy market. Diyers mostly dont have the skill to trim and flare the lines. So what else can they tell you? When your unit burns up they will be glad to sell you another one.
@@PatriotDIY He isn't trolling you, man. He's 100% correct. If you are going to coil your linesets, you need them coiled horizontally instead of vertically. You have effectively installed 2 oil traps, which could potentially greatly shorten your compressor's lifespan. If you shell that compressor, you might as well toss that unit in the garbage, as Mr. Cool's reputation for customer service isn't great, and the labor involved in a compressor swap isn't going to be cheap (if you can even find someone to do it).
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
This is the kind of guy you want as a best friend, seems pretty great. Video as well done, not like those others who love to hear themselves talk, this guy cuts to the Chase and gives you exactly what you need to know, well done!
I got the 12K unit for my wife's sewing room I built. It's 441 sq-ft. I haven't installed it yet, but it will cool it nicely. The 12K BTU unit is the largest one that is powered by 120 vac/20 amp. The next higher one is 18K, and it takes 240 vac/20 amp... fyi.FYI. I'm putting the same 12K unit in my 450 sq-ft shop. Thanks for the video!!
I really like your videos and watched most if not all of them. I bought the Mr. Cool 4th Gen 2400 btu unit for my shop about the same time you made this one. I am ready to connect the refrigerant hoses and thought I ran into a snag until I watched this video...cleared that up for me. I need 10 feet or less of flex conduit and wires. Heading for Lowes in a bit. Since you didn't show the 240 VAC part of the install, I'll be figuring it out on my own. I was in Navy electronics for 25 years and worked on a lot of systems 110, 240, and higher in RADAR. When I retired from the Navy, I went on to install DC systems, 110 and 240 VAC systems in the cell phone world for a while, so I am comfortable hooking the Mr. Cool up. I just wished I had the sense to check out this video before I started my DIY job, I think it would have gone a lot smoother.
Love mini-splits. So glad we have this option. May not be perfect for every situation but when they are used, they are awesome!
Glad I found you. Appreciate the effort you put in to help people like myself!
I watched so many installs and no one showed what size or anchors they use to anchor the unit down, So THANK YOU !
it's very wise to put the anchors through the hole first to see if they fit, the anchors in his video seem awfully thin but maybe his unit has different sized holes than my mrcool. for me 3/8ths fit super easily through my half inched holes.
Hint for those living in snow belt. Mounting the unit off the ground on wall hanger or stand keeps it free of snow.
also check your instructions, there's a drain pipe that can go on the bottom that you can buy drain hose for to route the water it dumps out during the winter. water apparantly comes out from the compressor during the winter, and from the indoor heads during the summer (manual said to route the drain hose as vertical as possible from the compressor to avoid it freezing).
I’m looking at doing a 4 zone DIY mr cool setup with the ceiling cassettes. Was a super intimidating idea, but now I’m quickly becoming excited about the project. Thanks for the informative video!
Were the ceiling cassettes easy to install?
this dudes awesome. love this channel!
Been looking at these, nice that you are showing this. Thank you!
Great video!
Thanks for the video. Well put together. God bless!
you should wrap the uv tape from bottom to top, lets water fall down it rather than right into the sleeves. the lineguard should hopefully protect it though. also looks like you may not have wrapped the signal wire in conduit, you might be fine most here on youtube dont, but the manual says to do it and all 4th gen units come with it in conduit now. i used liquidtight conduit, which is stiff and annoying but is the only "easy" way to do it, just may want to drill that 3.5in hole a bit further to the right and down to accomodate the conduit. the template at least didnt work so well for us, we had to leave the conduit unscrewed to fit it all through the hole (ziptied but still not ideal). Also you should be checking for leaks after you hook power up in addition to before you hook the power up, you put the sound deadening stuff on the connections too early. mrcool should just make a proper install video, but this is all in the manual. just with varying degrees of specificity
I'm from south Louisiana and have a metal building just like yours, set up with woodworking tools (table saw, drum sander, jointer etc). I don't have any insulation yet and have been trying to decide on what to do! It was friggin HOT in that shop this past summer. I understand the pain LOL! My question is, would you have done anything different? I was thinking about those DIY spray foam kits to do just the ceiling, and the Bluetex bubble like you have for the walls. I suppose anything is "better" than having sweating shop cast iron surfaces in winter, and 110* air from a fan blowing on me like an oversized blow dryer in the summer. Thanks in advance, keep up the progress!
@shaunadams5201 what i have is working well, I started with the bubble insulation then added the mini split which was a game changer!! And as I finish out the shop putting plywood on the walls ive also been adding additional foam board insulation behind the plywood! I
Great Job on the video
Thanks
Any issues with the Mr. Cool over the past year?
Good Job, Good content!
Thanks
You can run the lines down the inside too and cover.
Will a 3 1/4 hole saw work?
Question for you about this system how is it on the electric bill cooling and heating your garage? I’m looking into building a metal shop like yours and was just wondering
Would this not cause condensation? Sincr its not truly a condistioned insulated space ?
@@H_Smells no condensation issues here
No pressure test or vacuum? Before releasing the refrigerant
@@marrionward2456 no needed with the DIY system
Still satisfied with it? Would you do anything differently?
Great video. Question: I’ve heard other people say that the left over lines néed to be laying horizontal. Is there a expert who knows if it’s okay to leave them vertical ?
Most people say horizontal and they are probably right! I havnt had problems with mine though
@@PatriotDIY thank you for your reply
Great info looking into one for my new building! 👍
Great video and very applicable to my situation since I too have a metal garage similar to yours and I am thinking of the 36K unit. I have a question for you though. Where you are mounting the inside unit between two steel studs with your wood frame, what distance are your metal studs spaced? Mine are 49" which doesn't look like the inside unit would fit between them, especially the angled support braces. Thanks again for your excellent video!
Mine are 60" apart
@@PatriotDIY thanks for the quick reply. I’ll have to adjust my planning.
Wow I didn't realize Mr Cool made a single zone 36k unit. 16 SEER is lower than I expected. I bet two 18k heads would be more efficient but maybe not worth the extra installation hassle and incrementally higher cost.
Solid video thank you!
Considering installing one of these on my RV. The rooftop unit works but it's so inefficient because the evaporator is outside and the condenser sits next to it. Having the two split apart actually would make it significantly cooler in the RV
Does it matter what orientation the line set should be stored? Horizontal or vertical? I’m getting mixed suggestions?
If you mean the coil, it's better if it's laid down horizontal.....unlike mine lol
I think only their 9K unit can operate on 110V. Good video. Thanks for posting.😊
9K and 12k can operate on 115volts, higher one used 240 volts
Question for you, I have 3 of these in a 40x70 14 foot tall. The heat at the top of the roof inside you can feel it radiating down. Do you have this issue in your building? And if so have you thought about some sort of vents.
I havnt noticed this issue. but I'd love to hear what you come up with
Very helpful thanks
Good job. Where did you buy the outside cover? Does it coming with the package!
Link in the description
Yeah the cover kit.!
Great video! I just ordered mine for our shop and I've got a question: How did you decide on where in the building to install it? Was it all based on proximity to your power box or did you try and center it as much as possible? Any input would be much appreciated!
Honestly it was the only logical spot I had. Tried to make sure it was in a spot that would blow towards the center of the shop thinking that would cool everything the best! Really worked out to where I wanted the exterior unit and trying to get it centered . Just my thought I really don't know what's best
What's the lowest temp you can maintain on the hottest days? Is 70 possible?
It's been 98-100 and very sunny here all week and the best I can maintain is like 76-80.
I'm in the deep south. Have a 3 bay garage with lower ceilings than you. Looking for something that'll maintain 70 degrees.
@TypeR632 Mr cool makes a dual system that may work
How much did it cost you to have the power and transfer switch installed with the conduit?
Around $500, but I also had some ceiling fans installed that were included...so not sure exactly.
What kind of insulation did you install?
Bubble foil
Awesome vid. Looking to get the 36k unit myself for my shop. I have high ceilings too, so hope it does ok. Quick note before someone else gives u crap...you referred to the power disconnect as a transfer switch. Transfer switches are used with standby generators to transfer power supply from the grid to the generator. :)
Lol yep I sure did.....didn't realize what I said until now.
So how do ya like it so far? There seems to be a lot of mixed reviews on Mr Cool minisplits, and who knows if the bad reviews are just trash talkers or if they are genuine issues. I know its hot, but have you tried the heat function, just to make sure the reversing valve, etc works ok? I'm looking to get the same unit you have or maybe the 4th gen.
@@handyandyhomeandfarmservic7968 haven't tried heat yet but I should. I'm loving it!! Cools down fast and holds temp good!!
I've used both mini splits and central.
For me personally I prefer a central hvac over mini splits.
Main reason is just overall comfort in every single room in your house including all bathrooms, walk in closets and utility rooms.
To get that level of comfort with mini splits it would require a head per every room in the house which would be extremely expensive and wouldn't make sense when you can just go with one large HVAC system for the whole house.
The other con going with mini splits especially on an already existing home is all the line sets running all around the outside of house especially if you're going with multiple heads which is a major eyesore.
For larger homes you definitely want to go central. I live near Nashville and every builder of a new construction house is still going with central because of the same reasons.
Really not that much of a price difference on electric bill as most people think because you're still not heating or cooling all those smaller rooms in the house.
A central hvac distributes all air evenly throughout every room in the house.
I don't disagree but all your examples are for multi room application or whole home application. This is one room so cheaper system + diy install = Perfectt for me
You have solar on the shop too? That and the mini split are the way to go.
I don't have solar...yet
@@PatriotDIY next DIY😉
My run is slightly longer than 15 feet I see you had a small piece off indoor unit is that specific to ductless model
The mr cool system comes with 25ft of line.
Quesiton, How hard does this mini split blow?
Like Miley Cyrus in an NFL locker room!!
@PatriotDIY now that's one hard blower.
Question for you. I have a 30x60 shop but will only be cooling 30x45 of it. My ac guy told me that that the 36000 btu wouldn't cool it like I think. Do you have this issue in your shop and what size of a area are you cooling?
I'm cooling 1600 sqft. And it works great. Takes some time to cool down from high temp but I've had my shop down to 75 on a 98 degree day. You could always go with a dual setup with 1 outdoor unit and 2 wall units in 2 different spots
Have another question for you. What size wire did you use and breaker? TIA
@@michaelconstable5100 I didn't run the electrical myself but the instruction will tell you what size wire you need depending on what size unit you get.
what do you have for insulation?
You didn’t show how to install it.line set,electric hookup etc😢
HELP. I just installed mine and it won't blow cold air at all. Anyone?
did you release the refrigerant by turning the Allan screw on the end of the fittings after hooking up the lines? 08:45
@@PatriotDIY yes. Initially we forgot but then I went and did it
@@oswaldogarcia4144 only other advice I have is check for kinks in the line or leaks.....then call MrCool
@@PatriotDIY so I literllsy just got home and turned it on. It was colder, but then it shut off and we got the "EC" error code. So a refrigerant leak, apparently. At least we know the problem now. Thanks for your help!
K😊
Your spray bottle has no soap in it. Also u cant coil the lines.
Ummmmm. I poured the soap in it myself lol, guess I should have shown that in the video??? Also, Mr Cool literally tells you to coil up the excess line and shows a picture illustrating it in the instruction manual.....so....ur wrong! ;-)
@@PatriotDIY Ask anybody that does HVAC work. You dont coil those lines. They say that because a diyer cant do any better and thats the market there after. After a couple years you will see when that unit fails permanently from oil starvation and its out of warranty.
@@RadioRich100 whatever you say boss! If you're a professional hvac installer why are you trolling a diy video? 🤔
@@PatriotDIY trolling? sounds gay to me. If you dont believe what I have told you research it. Remember Mr Cool is for the diy market. Diyers mostly dont have the skill to trim and flare the lines. So what else can they tell you? When your unit burns up they will be glad to sell you another one.
@@PatriotDIY He isn't trolling you, man. He's 100% correct. If you are going to coil your linesets, you need them coiled horizontally instead of vertically. You have effectively installed 2 oil traps, which could potentially greatly shorten your compressor's lifespan. If you shell that compressor, you might as well toss that unit in the garbage, as Mr. Cool's reputation for customer service isn't great, and the labor involved in a compressor swap isn't going to be cheap (if you can even find someone to do it).
I have an issue with my unit. Several calls and emails have all gone unanswered! Don’t buy mr. cool products!!!
That's why you should have bought from Ingrams....they handle the warranty stuff for you.