I'm planning on installing a mini split before winter. Glad I found this. I've been debating on Mr Cool or something like this. I need 2 Zones and Mr. Cool is twice the price. It has been 50 years since I did any refridge (Soda Machines) and have no tools left. You have given me the confidence to go the cheaper route, as long as I don't have to purchase any freon
I bought a Bosch mini split (12,000 btu) three years ago for my converted garage. My wife put her hobby room in the ex-garage. She runs it at 68 degrees all day. My increase in cost was $20 dollar a month. The garage is 19 ft by 18ft. I live in El Paso Tx. Summer month 100+
@@dragontile No idea. She likes it cool as she is Dutch. Funny thing, my system heats and cools. In the winter she keeps it at 75, and the summer at 68. Why? She just says it is comfortable.
I would recommend adding a test step for the drain line. simple pour a cup of water into the drain pan and make sure water comes out of the drain line, and no water leaks.
I installed my mini-split a couple of years ago myself by watching YT. I had to watch multiple different videos to get all the information. I wish I would have had this video then. You covered everything in one video. Nice job!
HVAC service tech here, love the install. My only comment is that you can’t rely on time for the vacuum pump. The industry standard is to use a vacuum gauge and suck the system down to 500 microns. This is the standard to ensure that there is 0 moisture left in the system. Keep up the good work!
@@Mike-01234 Done 10's of thousand of installs over 45 years using the time method without issue. Common sense is the key. Keep the line set capped until used, install a filter drier on used equipment, check pressures after started. Don't use pieces of line set from previous install leftovers, etc.
@@Mike-012342 hours is excessive but nothings wrong with that.I have a 4hp vacuum pump and in 15min it’s good.But whatever your comfortable with….do it.
Can I run the exchange tubing though an attic? I have to mount the outside unit about 25 feet away from the inside unit due to the layout of my garage. I would use that tape ahead of time to protect it from the heat if needed.
@@aday1637 Without issue for you. Issues due to bad vacuums happen after a couple of years. Long after the installer is gone. The only way you know you are pulling a tight, leak free vacuum is with a micron gauge. Run your vacuum for two days if you want to. if you have a small leak, you are pulling air into the system for 2 days, and eventually refrigerant creep over time. Do the customer a favor, and don't be cheap.
The electrical connections as shown at the 35:20 mark are dangerously poor. The wires needs to wrap at least 3/4 of the way around the ground(green) terminal screws. The one on the right is barely under the grounding screw. On the terminal block you have similar issues. The the L2 line side is especially bad, with one of the strands of the wire not even under the terminal screw. With stranded wires (especially connections to motors!), you should use crimp style split ring (or ring) connectors. Remember, there is a motor running on the condenser unit, and near 24/7 vibrations as a result. Your only ground is from the whip, and if it fails, and either one of the L1/L2 load connections comes loose and shorts against the metal enclosure, you have just energized all the metal parts of the entire system; potentially with lethal consequences.
And add to that the giant hole through the wall, plus the giant knockouts in the back of that disconnect switch with no clamp for the 12/3 NM. That would fail any inspections, is NOT Code compliant, and if there should be an electrical failure anywhere in that garage, the insurance would most likely not pay out due to the non compliant electrical (even if that work was not the cause.) Other than that, the rest of his work was well done, but he really needs to avoid doing electrical work.
Did you mean the 19:54 mark(ish)? (35:20 is 3 secs before the end of the video. At least as I see it). Regardless, I will say this seems out of character. He actually has videos of what 'proper' electrical connections look like, and I find he usually follows them. I can only imagine (hope?) this was the result of 'filming' taking away his focus from the actual work... I do hope he goes back and fixes it though. All that said. I enjoy these videos a lot and I find them quite useful. And just in general, for anyone watching these, always check your own local building codes! They can vary significantly depending on where you are.
I am very rusty. Been nearly 15 years since I've done any serious electrical work (and with Romanian EU standards), and the first thing I noticed was the L2 and ground. That can be extremely dangerous, especially since the terminal is out of sight, out of mind after the device is properly installed. We do not have these boxes with knockouts outside the house as seen earlier in the video though, as that is not part of our building code and I am unfamiliar with its purpose or how it provides any sort of crucial safety mechanism besides just having another switch outside the house that kids can screw with between the AC and breaker panel. Maybe you can help me understand what that box is actually for, really, aside from conforming to a building code? The other thing I wanted to mention is that stranded wires without crimping sleeve is a bizarre way to handle any device that's pulling in a lot of wattage and handling vibrations, but I'd avoid stranded wires altogether. I mean, just using solid copper and properly installing it onto the terminal would reduce risk significantly.
@@thetechguychannel The idea behind having the disconnect near the unit on the outside of the building is for the safety of the technician who is servicing the equipment. With it in sight at all times, it prevents someone from turning power back on the the circuit while the equipment is being serviced without the technician's knowledge.
I have put in low cost 6 Senville mini splits now, 2 at our house, 2 in the shop at work, 1 in the office and one in a remote trailer in the lot. The office was still using oil heat and cost of not getting the oil tank filled 1 time just about paid for their mini split.
I installed the same Mini Split system in my home late last year, it's been keeping my home nice and cool all summer and except for the coldest days it kept my place warm so I didn't use my boiler much. It's also great on my utility bill. I would also suggest using a product called FlareSeal for the flare connectors I learned the hard way just using Nylog and the connection was leaking
I like Mr Cool for the added benefit of evacuated lines, properly crimped/set lines and built-in wifi covered in warranty all for $2-300 more. The evac of lines is biggest seller which helps equipment longevity.
This line was clean and dry to begin with and likely doesn't need tons of evacuation time, but 10 minutes won't be quite enough to fully dry every lineset. I was taught to use a full hour, but 30 minutes is probably enough on a lineset that was already filled with nitrogen and which has not been exposed to atmosphere (uncapped) for more than a few minutes. While there will be no more obvious vapor after the first minute or two, it actually takes time for any moisture in the system to evaporate and then work its way towards the vacuum pump; once the initial air is gone, there's nothing to "push" out the water vapor so it takes time. You cannot measure vacuum with a dial guage. A proper digital vacuum gauge can be used, but they are fairly expensive and I never had one; we just ran the pump for as long as our schedule allowed, but I considered the absolute minimum to be 20 minutes if the line was already dry; you only get one chance to do this right. Pre-filling with nitrogen helps as the gas should already be quite dry. While the nitrogen charge does serve as a leak test, the primary purpose of pre-filling these lines is to keep them dry inside. Atmospheric air carries tons of water vapor and many refrigerants, oils, and compressor parts are quite sensitive to moisture.
Digital gauges came decades behind air conditioning and behind analog gauges. So, until the digital vacuum gauges became common, you're suggesting that no air conditioner tech or company anywhere had properly measured vacuum in a line set? And nitrogen doesn't guarantee dryness. I'm not an AC guy but I worked with waveguides in the Navy and we kept those dry by having carefully dried nitrogen. And one certainly would use anything other than dried nitrogen to pressure test; they can't pressure test with Freon. So the purpose, I would argue, is to do both - pressure testing and keeping the lines clean and dry, wouldn't you think? Lastly, why would a tech not vacuum for the full hour you were taught? Is an extra half-hour not worth it to do quality work? I hear all the time about failed AC systems from lack of proper cleaned lines from lack of proper vacuum. I've definitely had my own fail from that and take very expensive compressors with them. Likely all over 30 minutes time.
Can't measure vacuum with an analogy gauge? Want to tell that to people who have been using analog gauges for longer than people live. They are used all over the place in industry along with analog pressure gauges. Want to get really accurate, get a manometer that uses a slant tube.
You didn't use a cable clamp on the back of the disconnect. The wires can rub against the sharp metal edge and cause a short. It's also a code violation. Honestly, I would have just used a 20 amp breaker since you used 12 gauge wire. A bit extra headroom on startup surge current is nice to have. It's fine as is, though. I hope you used that mastic stuff to fill in around the line set to keep critters out.
You are correct about the need for a clamp on the wire where entering the disconnect enclosure. However, you are incorrect about sizing the breaker to a 20a. Refer to NFPA 70, Article 440.4(B) "Multimotor and combination-load equipment shall be provided with a visible nameplate marked with the makers's name, ... , the maximum rating of the branch-circuit short-circuit and ground-fault protective device , ... ". In other words, you need to look at the compressor's nameplate, and it will give you the maximum amps and maximum OCPD. You use this to size your minimum wire size and maximum breaker size. On that unit, it is probably 14awg wire with a 15a OCPD. On the 230V, 12,000 BTU minis, the max OCPD is 10a. I usually have to buy a couple of singles and then handle tie them because 240v, 10a breakers are hard to find. Remember, the manufacturer is not sizing the OCPD to only protect the wire from the panel to the compressor. The OCPD is also providing short and ground-fault protection to the wiring the manufacturer used to build the device. In mini-splits, you are also protecting the control wire between the compressor and the cooling head. In the video, that wire was a 16awg wire. The manufacturer considers a 15a OCPD as sufficient to open on a short of a 16awg wire, but probably not a 20a OCPD. Do not simply slap in the biggest breaker for the branch circuit wiring that Table 310.16 allows. Refrigeration equipment is not general wiring.
That coil of line set, and high set disconnect is an eyesore. Should have installed the condenser somewhere where you could have utilized the line set length straight. Then you could have used line set cover and it would have looked professionally installed. And new disconnect in line with your central AC disconnect.
0:13 I think it was the comedian Steven Wright who pointed out in his deadpan manner, that "no matter the temperature of a room, it is always room temperature"
Nice install, I only have 2 suggestions. I'm only saying because im watching #1 When using a crows foot or dog bone have it at 90 deg from the handle so you don't increase or decrease length to change the torque range. #2 I would suggest to put a peice of rubber or plastic to disperse the pressure on the lines so the zip ties doesn't eventually cut throughthe uv tape and foam sheilding. I am definitely putting a few of these in my next house and shop.
@@LRN2DIY Plus on the wiring you really want to use crimp on terminals for the power in the outdoor unit. That way the copper wire will not flow and cause connection issues after a year. Also with the drain lead it to a drain, not into the bottom of the outdoor unit. That drain really is for use as heat pump, to drain condensate water from the outdoor, connecting the indoor unit causes a pool of water to develop in the bottom of the tray, and the fan throws it into the coils, so that after 2 years they are rotted out on the inside. Keeping the condenser dry, and dumping that condensate water elsewhere, means it will likely last at least 10 years with no problems. Where I live humidity means that wall units need a drain, not the now standard let the fan blow it on the coils, as that means after 2 years the inner coil is merely bare pipe, all the fins rotted off. I did a lot of condenser coil changes, along with multiple compressor changes, because the compressors would rust through at the base of the suction inlet, or where the mountings are, and leak out the refrigerant. Replace under warranty, and take the new one, and apply 3 coats of spray primer and aluminium silver to those areas before installing them. Got another 4 years out of them typically before the bases would rot out fully. Split units lasted a lot longer, typically I would just buy capacitors, fan motors and fan bearings for them. Had the one Carrier unit that came with the building, original equipment in 1965 or so, still running with zero problems. Only had to replace motor bearings, because they wore out, and fan motor is obsolete. So got donors from a broken free standing fan that had been dropped and broken, perfect size, just had to oil them, and use the clean felts they had, and soak those with oil. The other 1970's one was a window wall unit, hard to remove because the compressor fell out the bottom and it broke all the aluminium coils. The few Defy console units were fine, just clean coils, and spray the rust, because moving them was not going to work as they had rotted out the bases. They dated from the 1980's. At home installed split units, and after 16 years the first is still perfect, and the 6 year other one as well, though the lines needed to be 15m long to get them into place.
Your videos were very helpful and informative. It along with other videos and reviews helped me decide on the Tosot mini-split from Tosot-Direct. So far the unit has been great and doing a great job cooling my small house. I have an old house (40’s) with plaster lathe interior walls, no insulation and cement stucco wire exterior walls. Drilling through that stuff was tough. I ended up using a chisel to knock out the scored area and end cutters to cut the wire. Based on information from other install videos I decided to use forked crimp connectors for the electrical connections to the outdoor unit.
My house is a 1938 lathe & plaster home with cement stucco exterior too. I want to do mini splits but dreaded the DIY pains. But your experience boosts my confidence (at least a little bit up 😮). Thanks for posting.
We've had a $900 Pioneer mini split (not the audio brand) bought off Amazon 7 years ago that weve never had a problem with. It's crazy that anyone would go for forced air these days. It blows around dust and allergens, etc. And the condensers are much quiter and even more energy efficient than a conventional AC unit. They also heat down to -20F in some cases. One of the best things we ever bought, along with a bidet. Those $30 bidets you can hook up to a toilet are life changing.
+ 1 for the bidet. Once you get over the initial s h o c k its a life changer and you'll wonder how you ever went so long not knowing how disgusting your bum has been. Personal, I went for $800 one - its worth it to me. Saves money on TP too.
Central (forced, as you stated) air is better… that’s why. Having a central unit that is ducted is a better situation. You can put in a quality air filter and it circulates air far better. Everything that you said about them is false. Getting a quiet and efficient compressor is possible regardless of a mini-split or a ducted central air system. For situations where you cannot do ducting, a mini-split works great. And for situations where you need to address a single room (or a few rooms if you have a zoned mini-split with one compressor with multiple air handlers), they also work great. However, central air systems are better.
Except parts are brand and model specific. If you do need a repair, it could take months to get a part. They are almost impossible to clean, the blower wheel gets all sorts of dust and debris buildup that takes a complete teardown to get to it. You've been pretty lucky because mini splits have the quality of a window AC.
Correct, you do not need to add refrigerant to the system. But if you extend your lineset you will have to. Because its extra volume in the system that the refrigerant needs to fill
Holy crap dude! That 240v connection inside the condenser is terrible! I hope you go back and clean that up. You can crimp on your own fork connectors and get a cleaner, tighter connection. I'm not trying to hate on you or anything. I applaud you for tackling this on your own, but you have to really be careful with electrical.
@@curtisramsey2219 The quality is on par with the Mr Cool units i have, just a few things like no grill to protect the coils on the outside unit which isn't that big of a deal and No voice control ( No Connecting to Google Home or Alexa) Out side of that its been really good.
I bought 2 EG4 120V DIY install units (one 12k, one 9k) late last year, and installed them myself. Had never done anything this involved before, but am a DIY kinds guy. The worst part was drilling through the wall, which I found incredibly nerve racking. But once done I was through the wall, I realized it wasn't that bad. Another issue was mounting the inside unit, as I was by myself. Try and see if you can have a friend help you if possible, it would make things much easier (I have no friends 😂 ). That was about the worst of the install. As for the performance of them, they are great. I live over 8200 feet in elevation in the mountains, and saw temps of -10F this past winter and the mini-splits worked great. I did experience some freezing over during snow storms, but it would quickly melt when hit with sun the next day. While it doesn't ever get too hot here, on the rare occasions I do need AC, they work super fast, and keep things nice and cool. Very pleased with my mini-splits.
Pretty cool that you knocked that out yourself. Nice job! Yeah, having two people on a few parts of this really helps. I imagine it's somewhat slim pickin's if you're living that high up. We're at about 4500 feet and zero issues here as well with the very hot and very cold temps.
Did you know EG4 sells hybrid solar units for about the same price? Then you can buy some very cheap panels at $40 each. Run the heat pump for free during mid day on a sunny day.
I installed two Pioneers recently, cut the line set to size without extra coils. You cannot do that with a Mr Cool as the line set is pre-charged. All the others store the pre-charge in the outdoor unit for as much as a 25' line set, any longer requires a boost of additional R410a. That alone is what got me into the Pioneers instead of the Mr Cool. Mr Cool say's they patented the pre-charged line set, but I disagree since I installed a full blown indoor outdoor HVAC that had precharged indoor, line set and outdoor units back in 2002.
Unfortunately you are now stuck w R410A which is already getting phased out by new regulations on Jan 1 2025. R32 and R454B units will replace old R410A units. And no, you cannot use new refrigerants to recharge R410A units. R32 has been used for years in EU and Asia. For some reason, USA is so behind in this tech.
10:51 What does “we dont have to worry about the neutral” mean? Is it just dangling in the panel? did you cap it with a nut? Cut it off? 13:37 How did you find the studs? did you find studs? 34:37 What is it at 3pm? That’s the real test.
Great Video, not for everyone, you need some prerequisites like common sense, a good electrical and mechanical aptitude and patience, I possess all of these and I'd do this in a heartbeat! Thanks!
Sound or audio is just fine. Thanks again for a good tutorial on a mini split. Looks like I am going to take one on for the bedroom now as the wife and I just watched this.
We're likely in the same boat. Our bedroom bakes in the sun all day and is typically warmer than the rest of the house so we might put a smaller unit in, despite having central air. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Typically you get what you pay for. I went with a Mitsubishi and it’s flawless. Installed it myself 20+ years ago. I did pay an AC company to vacuum it down and open up the compressor. It was worth the $300. I saved $2500 over the quote to buy and install the same unit from an AC company. Also had to run power from the front to the back of the house. No idea what they would of wanted for that. It wasn’t included in the quote. It took me 4 hours to run it.
Mitshubishi invented the minisplit..... FAR SUPERIOR MINISPLIT on the market... all these cheap knock off minisplits are not allowed or spec'd out by engineers for commercial/industrial applications... the top dogs of minisplits are fujitshu,Mitshubishi and daikin... everything else is just cheap imitations not worth fixing... disposable minisplits... this is not my opinion! This is my 30 yr experience
A few comments. 1. Torque wrenches are not very accurate at the end of their range. An inch-lb range (generally 1/4" drive) would be better for the 1/4" line but a 3/8" drive which usually has a low end value of 5 would probably be okay. 2. When using crowfeet with a torque wrench the torque value needs to be adjusted unless the crowfoot is at a 90 degree angle with the wrench. Generally with a crowfoot, the applied torque will be greater than what the wrench is configured for unless the crowfoot is at 90 degrees.
A little trick you can try when mounting something that requires the holes to line up properly. Take a piece of paper and put it on the piece your needing to mount were the holes are that you need to line up and trace the piece out on the paper than poke through the holes on the paper where they are from the back of the piece your working with than take the paper and put it on the wall where you want your hole drilled and drill out the holes.
Just installed one; having someone to help and the correct tools, like the torque wrench, is extremely important. I cut my lines to size and flared them but had an issue with the 1/4 OD line set being too small. I contacted TOSOT, who confirmed that the OD of the 1/4 line set was not standard and that the flaring tool would not work. This caused me a lot of frustration, but I was able to get it to work with the use of sand in the flaring tool to keep the line from moving while creating the flare. As far as I am concerned, I did not come across a flare toolset that would natively accommodate their line size, and I believe the company should address this by using standard 1/4 OD lines, especially when their 3/8s line is standard size. I ended up mounting this on the side of my house and it was a major mistake as the vibration was too much for me to work without distraction. I ended up buying a stand mount and mounting it on top of concrete pavers. My advice is not to mount the condenser on your house unless you are mounting it to brick or concrete walls.
Strangely, I installed one too, and the 1/4 was fine, but the 3/8s wasn't 3/8s, it was 12mm. I bought 3 flaring tools in order to get this sorted. In the end it was a tool with both metric and SAE that did the trick.
As so many other commented, never wrap stranded wire on a ground screw or any screw terminal. Too many electrical issues to list! One thing mentioned that I thought was messed up, if you are correct about the control cable between the condenser and evap being 16 AWG, when name brand systems use min. 14 AWG. People installing the Mr Cool and other cheaper versions of ductless mini-splits may be in for nightmares if they have problems, some mechanical contractors will not service those units. Buying name brand like Mitsubishi or LG, there are mechanical contractors that install and service them.
The power draw from the indoor unit is really low, only the fan pulls any measurable current. Wire size is based on current draw, 14 gauge is 15 amps, 12 gauge 20 amps, etc. 16 gauge is rated at 13 amps, which is the entirety of the unit as a whole. The indoor fan is also wired at 220, so that would be 13 per leg or a total of 26 amp draw. Would be surprised if the indoor unit pulled 5 amps tops.
@@acdii - Does not matter if the condensing unit is powered from a 230v/1 Ph. 15A or 20A breaker, if the 16 ga wire isn't fused accordingly at the condensing unit. 16 ga is rated for 10A, can't exceed 8A if a continuous load. Overcurrent protection shall be provided.
@@acdii Indoor unit power is around 100W, or a 1/2A on a 230VAC line. the fan does not draw much power, while the compressor does. Yes those wires need to be done using crimp on lugs, closed end for the ground connection, and open end possible for the power. More reliable, than the method shown, where the wire is not even formed to go around the screw of the barrier strip, or the ground screw. Plus left bare too long. Going to fall out after a few hundred cycles of operation as the screw loosens, as the wire is pulling the screw loose all the time.
The overnight cooling outside had as much or more to do with that 64° reading in the morning than the AC did. The AC can only maintain X° delta from ambient. Probably 20° of cooling was from outside the garage. You should let people know that because the implication was "Look, it's almost 30° cooler than outside!" and that is simply not the case.
You may want to check out his other videos. This garage is super insulated. Everything from the walls to the door itself. I agree though. I would have liked to have seen the temp change after it ran for about an hour. From there you can kind of get an idea of how well it was performing.
A coworker of mine did a Mr. cool mini split and when he had trouble with it, no contractor in town would work on it. He effectively had to buy a new one and.
All the more reason to get one of the non-name brands for a small fraction of the price of Mr Cool. If it last 30 days it'll probably last a few years, and if it does fail you can replace it and still be ahead versus a Mr Cool or one installed by a local HVAC contractor.
I'm fixing to stop installing customer purchased equipment. The quality is horrible on mini splits and I get blamed if they don't work correctly. I've got plenty of business, why should I shoot myself in the foot. I just installed one and the customer complained so bad about $450 charge I dropped it to $350. Never again. He's got another one he wants installed and thinks I'm going to do it for $350, wrong, I'm not doing it at all.
@@Bryan-Hensley It is not accurate to claim that "the quality is horrible on mini splits". There are many, many reputable manufactures making mini splits today and hundreds of millions of units are running right now, around the world.
@@paulmaxwell8851 I don't think that's what he meant when he said that. I interpreted that statement as "mini-splits purchased by customers are of horrible quality", this could also extend to the craftsmanship of the DIY install. Especially if people were to follow this video for example as there's a multiple errors that could be problematic later even if for the time being the unit works fine
I did not vacuum mine install at all. I was curious about that can of Kwik vac from Pioneer web-site for 35 bucks. I watched the video and did exactly what it said to do. I have had no problems out of mine it was very easy to install. I did buy me new refrigerant lines from ebay ,which I now do for all my installs saves time and money in the long run . I have installed 4 of these and flares leak at times even when done right, I have had no leaks sense going with new line sets . This guy makes perfect flares ,much better than I can. The lines they send look sketchy bad and on two of them when I got into them they were cracked when they got torqued down.
I always wondered about this when Mr Cool made a huge splash, and the big selling point was no vacuum pump... I wondered if you could buy a vacuum pump for cheaper then the Mr Cool markup. Seems like the answer is yes. And now you know you have full vacuum, vs Mr Cool where you are loosing a bit of vacuum when you install the lines.
You may want to look into crimp terminal kit for your wiring also its ok to leave wire loops instead of cutting the wires that short but its in conduit type so not to hard to rerun 😊
I used a 1 ton, Blueridge mini system, 1 in the shop, and a month later 1 in our living room. We have central in the house, but the mini split works great, and the central hardly ever turns on.
The benefit of the Mr Cool unit is that you don't need an HVAC license to install it. Other systems require you to fill them with refrigerant and good luck buying the refrigerant without an HVAC license, although I do know of a place or two that will sell you over the internet.
I installed my mini split lower and further away from the wall so i can clean it with ease. The fins in the back get dirty very fast and need to be cleaned twice a year.
I would recommend to install both units as low as possible because you will need to service them, clean them at least once a year, power wash them... For the indoor unit, especially in a workshop garage, you need to clean the air filter every 2 weeks., so better to keep the units easily accessible.
In many cases, it makes sense to do that - especially for the outdoor unit. The manual for all of these indoor units (regardless of brand) recommends that you keep them over 8' up to better circulate air. I chose to mount my outdoor unit high to prevent me from losing the use of the space underneath for our garbage cans and parking.
@@LRN2DIY I really don't see the point in circulating/cooling the air above your head. Unless you are moving a lot of air in the room, natural convection will keep the cool air at the bottom and the temperature may well be too hot around the ceiling, who cares? A friend of mine used to have an office, with A/C only on the bottom floor, and an open stair case. I was afraid it would be pretty inefficient. But as you climbed the stairs, you could feel the difference: cool air kept down and second floor was way hotter.
Im thinking about doing a multi-zone install and was wondering if you are concerned about getting it serviced if you have problems? I was thinking two compressors for redundancy. TIA
Perhaps there is no vibration with stuco but I have the Mr. Cool unit with the same hanger and there WILL be vibration with standard siding. It's not bad by any means but you will hear it.
Could you please tell me what's the mean of R410A pre-charged outdoor unit?
4 месяца назад
You've got my interest but I'm standoffish for a few reasons 1. When the unit breaks and requires service, can I buy parts from them? If yes, who is the brand they've mimicked? (Daikin or Carrier?) And 2. Do they make whole-home units or only mini-splits? (I'm still sitting on the fence for an ACiq unit for about 3k from HVAC Direct).
Buy Samsung, they are, along with Aux, the OEM for a large range of AC units. Aux for the cheapies, and Samsung for the mid price range units. Daytek also makes cheap units, but I know I can get spares for Samsung and Aux no problem, and for Daytek as well the Samsung compressors fit perfectly. Controls are another issue though, especially with inverter units, where when it blows you are replacing the AC unit, because the outdoor board (most likely to fail) will take out the compressor, or the other way round, so they get changed as a pair. Dumb non inverter ones the controller boards are very reliable, and with Samsung you only have really a single one for most of the range, which is reliable and also cheap, programmed from almost any Samsung remote control as well, and easy to find the instructions.
No, no it is not. Read the fine print. Here in Canada that warranty costs Can$235 each and every year for seven years. It excludes a second home owner, it excludes diagnostic costs, it excludes refrigerant, it excludes all labor. It's hardly worth the paper it's printed on. Go ahead and install the system, and save your money. If the system fails and you are unable to fix, it, replace it outright. Still cheaper than paying a local HVAC company; our charges about $600 an hour, based on the time spent on several local jobs..
What if I'm buying it to attach it to a few solar panels I already bought ..? Can it even be configed to run direct off panels..? And if so, cheaply ..? THX!!
Don't stress about the torque. Most guys on YT who are tightening stuff without a torque wrench just say "CLICK" when they're in the ball park. If you've got the experience you can do that.😆
I did the same with a Senville a few years ago at home. At my business a pro installed a big commercial AC unit. Last year the summer came and the AC failed - lost all the refrigerant, but my home install works perfect for 3 years now. So, I guess I did a cleaner install than the pro HVAC guy did lol. However I have to say I am not impressed with the cheap gauges as shown in the video just like the ones I used. It is hard to say how accurate they are on vacuum measurement, and the needle deflection range is very small. If I install another mini split some day I think I will splurge on one of those digital manifold units.
Nice work! I may get a nice digital manifold at some point too. I think for the average homeowner who might use them once or twice, it's probably sufficient, but if you're doing more than that the digital would be awesome.
Hole too large behind disconnect, also unit too high above ground (wait till you have to service or troubleshoot it) while hanging of a ladder. Just to protect your unit, I would install a fuseable disconnect to protect the system from voltage spikes. I know it's not required but a saver in the long run. Also remember 4' radius minimum from all utility meters, electric or gas meters.
Did everything but pump it down and check for leaks. Local hvac tech did it for $100.00. Had to have licensed Tech to sign off on it to keep the 5 year warranty .
20:02 is why insurance companies are starting to turn down claims when diy heating and ac equipment is installed. I've been turning down requests to come out and reinstall a mini split to get them to pass code
Why would you turn them down? I take it, then, that you do no DIY work at your own home? If a door knob to your bathroom quits locking, you don't go to Lowe's, you call a locksmith? No Draino ever crossed your threshold because if your sinks clog, you call a plumber? No DIY allowed at your house, I'm sure.
What Burn said if you don't have the proper fork terminals at least split the strands so you have equal pressure on the clamp to the wires, Your grounf wire is about to fall off.
It was actually a clip from when I was replacing the straight track with ThermoTracs. One was just next to the other while I was showing them side by side.
Thanks for the content. There are other less expensive mini split systems on the jungle that the DYI HVAC Guy has recommended and installed. No need to spend a grand. My 2 cents.
I came to see if there was a reminder about why Mr Cool is more expensive, what were the advantages. If the install is exactly the same I wouldn't over pay for MrCool.
Check the warranties, that is where companies cut costs, Mr cool offers units with 7 or 10 year warranties. The other area where companies cut cost is in the quality of the internal components.
I have a 400 SF garage that I want to put a mini split it. I have already put up a radiant barrier on the roll up door which helps a lot. I already have a hole to the outside cut into the wall for the lines. On the outside, that part of the unit can either sit on concrete or be mounted to the outside wall, and it is covered with an awning. I intend to use a 12,000 BTU unit rated for 750 SF- and I will be using a normal plug in, so no need to run any wiring. I'm looking for a ready to go out of the box, pre-charged unit. Any suggestions?
Does Tosot have any spare or replacement parts? Do they offer any support after buying their unit? I messaged them on their website asking about replacement parts but I got no reply!
I am surprised to see that you did not install a surge protector on this unit. Intermatic or Ditek make decent units. Install them outside at the disconnect box. Simple installation and they are considered standard install equipment by most manufacturers and professionals. Also, you did not mention it, but you did coil the excess lineset properly. When coiling the excess as you did, always keep the coils running horizontally to avoid creating an oil trap that can shorten the life of the equipment.
I would not mount it that close to the wall can't paint behind it could pump the refrigerant back in the ODU and disconnect it run the risk of leaking undoing the connections. I know they say can go down to 4" on a wall mount but go 12" have enough room to paint behind it with a small roller, and has more airflow. Using a crows foot to get the proper torque have to set it to 90 degrees on the end of the wrench.
Stating that it doesn’t matter which leg of the 240VAC goes to which connection isn’t entirely true. They are different phases and there are situations where you don’t want different feeds to be out of phase from each other. Check your manual in each situation to ensure you have things handled appropriately.
My primary need is for heat. I'm 80 yrs old so I'm old n cold. Haha I have a one room small cabin 24'x 10' with 7'6" ceiling. So I need a small unit. I'm off grid with large solar and wind power ( works day n night) i need description of heat output and over all Amp draw -- start up and running I have plenty power. Thanks for your detail. I didn't know I was gonna need the vac pump and need to need if I have to charge it?? With what?? We have Home Depot account so will source there. Dandahermit
Great video but the electrical at 20:20 was a bit sloppy. The bottom right red wire, the clamp is twisted. And also the stranded grounding conductor should have like an eye let or something,i dont really like a stranded J hook.
If you're going to spit out codes. Let's start off with the national electric code and the mandatory need to install a ground fault circuit interrupter, as well as place the AC unit on its own circuit.
@@quartzofcourse I did not say, that his, was not on its own circuit. What I did say was that according to the national electric code it is required. I'm not gonna debate on why (I would say that it would be considered a wet location since the condenser is sitting outside, and, there are things like power surges caused by lightning strikes that could damage your equipment). www.google.com/search?q=NEC+code+AC+on+its+own+circuit&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS907US907&oq=NEC+code+AC+on+its+own+circuit&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBBjgzajBqOagCALACAeIDBBgBIF8&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Instead of needle nose pliers to remove the rockwool, I was thinking, if you have a pair of tongs in your kitchen they should grab onto more insulation.
I’m sure you have a bunch of “professional electricians“ in your comments, but consider adding a NM clamp connector to the back of your disconnect where the Romex comes in. Great work otherwise!!
I can tell you from having another one (12,000 BTU Tosot unit sitting in direct sun all day every day) that they really do work amazingly well. Like any condenser unit (including central air) having it in the shade is ideal but they're built to work well in direct sunlight even at temps up to 122°F and down to -13°F.
A friend of mine is an HVAC tech. He went to China on the factory that makes minisplits. ALL brands are literally made at the same factory - they just put different quality parts inside. Seriously, all brands from 1K to 10K are made in the same warehouse:)
Btw the extension and crows foot threw off the torque. There’s math equations to find the correct setting. Though I’m sure you’re close enough. That torque spec is probably just so people don’t over tighten and strip the threads/ruin threads.
I'm from Australia and I've never heard of anyone installing a split in a garage, why would you need to heat or cool the draughty place your car is? Anyway we have been installing splits in every house since the early 00s as often the primary heating and cooling method as it's much cheaper than gas or resistive to heat now that we export all the gas overseas. Also I've never heard of either those brands, do you not have the big Japanese brands like Daikin, Mitsubishi, Panasonic and Fujitsu in America? We also now have Korean splits from Samsung, LG and Hyundai and now Chinese brands like Hisense and a Taiwanese one TECO.
I have seen Mr cool installs, and seems the biggest difference is you vacuumed and tested the seal, where the mr cool installers I have watched never tested that. They just opened the valves. But since you didn't add any refrigerat, what's the difference?? I'm new at the ac world, so maybe I'm missing something.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
28:20 Most auto stores have free tool rental programs, for example Oreilly rents torque wrench, flare tool, AC gauges, and Pump.
Should be top comment!
I'm planning on installing a mini split before winter. Glad I found this.
I've been debating on Mr Cool or something like this. I need 2 Zones and Mr. Cool is twice the price.
It has been 50 years since I did any refridge (Soda Machines) and have no tools left.
You have given me the confidence to go the cheaper route, as long as I don't have to purchase any freon
I bought a Bosch mini split (12,000 btu) three years ago for my converted garage. My wife put her hobby room in the ex-garage. She runs it at 68 degrees all day. My increase in cost was $20 dollar a month. The garage is 19 ft by 18ft. I live in El Paso Tx. Summer month 100+
That's awesome! I wonder how much it would be to cool to 76
@@dragontile No idea. She likes it cool as she is Dutch. Funny thing, my system heats and cools. In the winter she keeps it at 75, and the summer at 68. Why? She just says it is comfortable.
I would recommend adding a test step for the drain line. simple pour a cup of water into the drain pan and make sure water comes out of the drain line, and no water leaks.
Agree. One cup in should result in nearly one cup out.
I installed my mini-split a couple of years ago myself by watching YT. I had to watch multiple different videos to get all the information. I wish I would have had this video then. You covered everything in one video. Nice job!
Thanks for the kind words and nice work on getting the install done!
Same here. I did my workshop a few years ago and had to watch a bunch of different vids.
HVAC service tech here, love the install. My only comment is that you can’t rely on time for the vacuum pump. The industry standard is to use a vacuum gauge and suck the system down to 500 microns. This is the standard to ensure that there is 0 moisture left in the system. Keep up the good work!
True but is it really worth buying a $170 gauge to use it one time? I just vacuum for 2 hours and I know it's good.
@@Mike-01234 Done 10's of thousand of installs over 45 years using the time method without issue. Common sense is the key. Keep the line set capped until used, install a filter drier on used equipment, check pressures after started. Don't use pieces of line set from previous install leftovers, etc.
@@Mike-012342 hours is excessive but nothings wrong with that.I have a 4hp vacuum pump and in 15min it’s good.But whatever your comfortable with….do it.
Can I run the exchange tubing though an attic? I have to mount the outside unit about 25 feet away from the inside unit due to the layout of my garage. I would use that tape ahead of time to protect it from the heat if needed.
@@aday1637 Without issue for you. Issues due to bad vacuums happen after a couple of years. Long after the installer is gone. The only way you know you are pulling a tight, leak free vacuum is with a micron gauge. Run your vacuum for two days if you want to. if you have a small leak, you are pulling air into the system for 2 days, and eventually refrigerant creep over time. Do the customer a favor, and don't be cheap.
The electrical connections as shown at the 35:20 mark are dangerously poor. The wires needs to wrap at least 3/4 of the way around the ground(green) terminal screws. The one on the right is barely under the grounding screw. On the terminal block you have similar issues. The the L2 line side is especially bad, with one of the strands of the wire not even under the terminal screw. With stranded wires (especially connections to motors!), you should use crimp style split ring (or ring) connectors. Remember, there is a motor running on the condenser unit, and near 24/7 vibrations as a result. Your only ground is from the whip, and if it fails, and either one of the L1/L2 load connections comes loose and shorts against the metal enclosure, you have just energized all the metal parts of the entire system; potentially with lethal consequences.
And add to that the giant hole through the wall, plus the giant knockouts in the back of that disconnect switch with no clamp for the 12/3 NM. That would fail any inspections, is NOT Code compliant, and if there should be an electrical failure anywhere in that garage, the insurance would most likely not pay out due to the non compliant electrical (even if that work was not the cause.)
Other than that, the rest of his work was well done, but he really needs to avoid doing electrical work.
Did you mean the 19:54 mark(ish)? (35:20 is 3 secs before the end of the video. At least as I see it). Regardless, I will say this seems out of character. He actually has videos of what 'proper' electrical connections look like, and I find he usually follows them. I can only imagine (hope?) this was the result of 'filming' taking away his focus from the actual work... I do hope he goes back and fixes it though.
All that said. I enjoy these videos a lot and I find them quite useful. And just in general, for anyone watching these, always check your own local building codes! They can vary significantly depending on where you are.
I am very rusty. Been nearly 15 years since I've done any serious electrical work (and with Romanian EU standards), and the first thing I noticed was the L2 and ground. That can be extremely dangerous, especially since the terminal is out of sight, out of mind after the device is properly installed.
We do not have these boxes with knockouts outside the house as seen earlier in the video though, as that is not part of our building code and I am unfamiliar with its purpose or how it provides any sort of crucial safety mechanism besides just having another switch outside the house that kids can screw with between the AC and breaker panel. Maybe you can help me understand what that box is actually for, really, aside from conforming to a building code?
The other thing I wanted to mention is that stranded wires without crimping sleeve is a bizarre way to handle any device that's pulling in a lot of wattage and handling vibrations, but I'd avoid stranded wires altogether. I mean, just using solid copper and properly installing it onto the terminal would reduce risk significantly.
@@thetechguychannel The idea behind having the disconnect near the unit on the outside of the building is for the safety of the technician who is servicing the equipment. With it in sight at all times, it prevents someone from turning power back on the the circuit while the equipment is being serviced without the technician's knowledge.
@@adgarbault That makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
I have put in low cost 6 Senville mini splits now, 2 at our house, 2 in the shop at work, 1 in the office and one in a remote trailer in the lot. The office was still using oil heat and cost of not getting the oil tank filled 1 time just about paid for their mini split.
I installed the same Mini Split system in my home late last year, it's been keeping my home nice and cool all summer and except for the coldest days it kept my place warm so I didn't use my boiler much. It's also great on my utility bill. I would also suggest using a product called FlareSeal for the flare connectors I learned the hard way just using Nylog and the connection was leaking
I like Mr Cool for the added benefit of evacuated lines, properly crimped/set lines and built-in wifi covered in warranty all for $2-300 more. The evac of lines is biggest seller which helps equipment longevity.
The power line into the exterior disconnect needs a grommet or other means to secure the cable to prevent shorting.
This line was clean and dry to begin with and likely doesn't need tons of evacuation time, but 10 minutes won't be quite enough to fully dry every lineset. I was taught to use a full hour, but 30 minutes is probably enough on a lineset that was already filled with nitrogen and which has not been exposed to atmosphere (uncapped) for more than a few minutes.
While there will be no more obvious vapor after the first minute or two, it actually takes time for any moisture in the system to evaporate and then work its way towards the vacuum pump; once the initial air is gone, there's nothing to "push" out the water vapor so it takes time.
You cannot measure vacuum with a dial guage. A proper digital vacuum gauge can be used, but they are fairly expensive and I never had one; we just ran the pump for as long as our schedule allowed, but I considered the absolute minimum to be 20 minutes if the line was already dry; you only get one chance to do this right. Pre-filling with nitrogen helps as the gas should already be quite dry.
While the nitrogen charge does serve as a leak test, the primary purpose of pre-filling these lines is to keep them dry inside. Atmospheric air carries tons of water vapor and many refrigerants, oils, and compressor parts are quite sensitive to moisture.
Digital gauges came decades behind air conditioning and behind analog gauges. So, until the digital vacuum gauges became common, you're suggesting that no air conditioner tech or company anywhere had properly measured vacuum in a line set?
And nitrogen doesn't guarantee dryness. I'm not an AC guy but I worked with waveguides in the Navy and we kept those dry by having carefully dried nitrogen. And one certainly would use anything other than dried nitrogen to pressure test; they can't pressure test with Freon. So the purpose, I would argue, is to do both - pressure testing and keeping the lines clean and dry, wouldn't you think?
Lastly, why would a tech not vacuum for the full hour you were taught? Is an extra half-hour not worth it to do quality work? I hear all the time about failed AC systems from lack of proper cleaned lines from lack of proper vacuum. I've definitely had my own fail from that and take very expensive compressors with them. Likely all over 30 minutes time.
Can't measure vacuum with an analogy gauge? Want to tell that to people who have been using analog gauges for longer than people live. They are used all over the place in industry along with analog pressure gauges. Want to get really accurate, get a manometer that uses a slant tube.
You didn't use a cable clamp on the back of the disconnect. The wires can rub against the sharp metal edge and cause a short. It's also a code violation. Honestly, I would have just used a 20 amp breaker since you used 12 gauge wire. A bit extra headroom on startup surge current is nice to have. It's fine as is, though. I hope you used that mastic stuff to fill in around the line set to keep critters out.
Inverter-driven compressors don't have a startup surge. They ramp the power up gradually.
You are correct about the need for a clamp on the wire where entering the disconnect enclosure. However, you are incorrect about sizing the breaker to a 20a. Refer to NFPA 70, Article 440.4(B) "Multimotor and combination-load equipment shall be provided with a visible nameplate marked with the makers's name, ... , the maximum rating of the branch-circuit short-circuit and ground-fault protective device , ... ". In other words, you need to look at the compressor's nameplate, and it will give you the maximum amps and maximum OCPD. You use this to size your minimum wire size and maximum breaker size. On that unit, it is probably 14awg wire with a 15a OCPD. On the 230V, 12,000 BTU minis, the max OCPD is 10a. I usually have to buy a couple of singles and then handle tie them because 240v, 10a breakers are hard to find.
Remember, the manufacturer is not sizing the OCPD to only protect the wire from the panel to the compressor. The OCPD is also providing short and ground-fault protection to the wiring the manufacturer used to build the device. In mini-splits, you are also protecting the control wire between the compressor and the cooling head. In the video, that wire was a 16awg wire. The manufacturer considers a 15a OCPD as sufficient to open on a short of a 16awg wire, but probably not a 20a OCPD. Do not simply slap in the biggest breaker for the branch circuit wiring that Table 310.16 allows. Refrigeration equipment is not general wiring.
That coil of line set, and high set disconnect is an eyesore. Should have installed the condenser somewhere where you could have utilized the line set length straight. Then you could have used line set cover and it would have looked professionally installed. And new disconnect in line with your central AC disconnect.
On the flipside, if it looks TOO professional it could make someone think he overpaid for work he could've done himself.
0:13
I think it was the comedian Steven Wright who pointed out in his deadpan manner, that "no matter the temperature of a room, it is always room temperature"
Dude, almost 1M subscribers! you deserve and earned every one of them! congrats 🙂
Nice install, I only have 2 suggestions. I'm only saying because im watching
#1 When using a crows foot or dog bone have it at 90 deg from the handle so you don't increase or decrease length to change the torque range.
#2 I would suggest to put a peice of rubber or plastic to disperse the pressure on the lines so the zip ties doesn't eventually cut throughthe uv tape and foam sheilding. I am definitely putting a few of these in my next house and shop.
Great thoughts and valid points there. Thanks for watching!
@@LRN2DIY Plus on the wiring you really want to use crimp on terminals for the power in the outdoor unit. That way the copper wire will not flow and cause connection issues after a year. Also with the drain lead it to a drain, not into the bottom of the outdoor unit. That drain really is for use as heat pump, to drain condensate water from the outdoor, connecting the indoor unit causes a pool of water to develop in the bottom of the tray, and the fan throws it into the coils, so that after 2 years they are rotted out on the inside. Keeping the condenser dry, and dumping that condensate water elsewhere, means it will likely last at least 10 years with no problems.
Where I live humidity means that wall units need a drain, not the now standard let the fan blow it on the coils, as that means after 2 years the inner coil is merely bare pipe, all the fins rotted off. I did a lot of condenser coil changes, along with multiple compressor changes, because the compressors would rust through at the base of the suction inlet, or where the mountings are, and leak out the refrigerant. Replace under warranty, and take the new one, and apply 3 coats of spray primer and aluminium silver to those areas before installing them. Got another 4 years out of them typically before the bases would rot out fully. Split units lasted a lot longer, typically I would just buy capacitors, fan motors and fan bearings for them. Had the one Carrier unit that came with the building, original equipment in 1965 or so, still running with zero problems. Only had to replace motor bearings, because they wore out, and fan motor is obsolete. So got donors from a broken free standing fan that had been dropped and broken, perfect size, just had to oil them, and use the clean felts they had, and soak those with oil. The other 1970's one was a window wall unit, hard to remove because the compressor fell out the bottom and it broke all the aluminium coils. The few Defy console units were fine, just clean coils, and spray the rust, because moving them was not going to work as they had rotted out the bases. They dated from the 1980's.
At home installed split units, and after 16 years the first is still perfect, and the 6 year other one as well, though the lines needed to be 15m long to get them into place.
Your videos were very helpful and informative. It along with other videos and reviews helped me decide on the Tosot mini-split from Tosot-Direct. So far the unit has been great and doing a great job cooling my small house. I have an old house (40’s) with plaster lathe interior walls, no insulation and cement stucco wire exterior walls. Drilling through that stuff was tough. I ended up using a chisel to knock out the scored area and end cutters to cut the wire. Based on information from other install videos I decided to use forked crimp connectors for the electrical connections to the outdoor unit.
My house is a 1938 lathe & plaster home with cement stucco exterior too. I want to do mini splits but dreaded the DIY pains. But your experience boosts my confidence (at least a little bit up 😮). Thanks for posting.
We've had a $900 Pioneer mini split (not the audio brand) bought off Amazon 7 years ago that weve never had a problem with. It's crazy that anyone would go for forced air these days. It blows around dust and allergens, etc. And the condensers are much quiter and even more energy efficient than a conventional AC unit. They also heat down to -20F in some cases. One of the best things we ever bought, along with a bidet. Those $30 bidets you can hook up to a toilet are life changing.
+ 1 for the bidet. Once you get over the initial s h o c k its a life changer and you'll wonder how you ever went so long not knowing how disgusting your bum has been. Personal, I went for $800 one - its worth it to me. Saves money on TP too.
Check your blower , probably needs big time cleaning.
Pioneer is just another Japanese company making excellent products for the cost. I love their audio systems.
Central (forced, as you stated) air is better… that’s why. Having a central unit that is ducted is a better situation. You can put in a quality air filter and it circulates air far better. Everything that you said about them is false. Getting a quiet and efficient compressor is possible regardless of a mini-split or a ducted central air system.
For situations where you cannot do ducting, a mini-split works great. And for situations where you need to address a single room (or a few rooms if you have a zoned mini-split with one compressor with multiple air handlers), they also work great. However, central air systems are better.
Except parts are brand and model specific. If you do need a repair, it could take months to get a part. They are almost impossible to clean, the blower wheel gets all sorts of dust and debris buildup that takes a complete teardown to get to it. You've been pretty lucky because mini splits have the quality of a window AC.
Correct, you do not need to add refrigerant to the system. But if you extend your lineset you will have to. Because its extra volume in the system that the refrigerant needs to fill
I did mine last April… your right, it is easy
Holy crap dude! That 240v connection inside the condenser is terrible! I hope you go back and clean that up. You can crimp on your own fork connectors and get a cleaner, tighter connection. I'm not trying to hate on you or anything. I applaud you for tackling this on your own, but you have to really be careful with electrical.
Check out the EG4 Mini Splits they can be powered directly from Solar Panels and no need to vacuum pump the lines
How is the quality
@@curtisramsey2219 The quality is on par with the Mr Cool units i have, just a few things like no grill to protect the coils on the outside unit which isn't that big of a deal and No voice control ( No Connecting to Google Home or Alexa) Out side of that its been really good.
I bought 2 EG4 120V DIY install units (one 12k, one 9k) late last year, and installed them myself. Had never done anything this involved before, but am a DIY kinds guy. The worst part was drilling through the wall, which I found incredibly nerve racking. But once done I was through the wall, I realized it wasn't that bad. Another issue was mounting the inside unit, as I was by myself. Try and see if you can have a friend help you if possible, it would make things much easier (I have no friends 😂 ). That was about the worst of the install.
As for the performance of them, they are great. I live over 8200 feet in elevation in the mountains, and saw temps of -10F this past winter and the mini-splits worked great. I did experience some freezing over during snow storms, but it would quickly melt when hit with sun the next day. While it doesn't ever get too hot here, on the rare occasions I do need AC, they work super fast, and keep things nice and cool. Very pleased with my mini-splits.
Pretty cool that you knocked that out yourself. Nice job! Yeah, having two people on a few parts of this really helps. I imagine it's somewhat slim pickin's if you're living that high up. We're at about 4500 feet and zero issues here as well with the very hot and very cold temps.
Did you know EG4 sells hybrid solar units for about the same price? Then you can buy some very cheap panels at $40 each. Run the heat pump for free during mid day on a sunny day.
I live in the mountains above snowline bout 4,000 ft alone so no friends either.😢 To help
I installed two Pioneers recently, cut the line set to size without extra coils. You cannot do that with a Mr Cool as the line set is pre-charged. All the others store the pre-charge in the outdoor unit for as much as a 25' line set, any longer requires a boost of additional R410a. That alone is what got me into the Pioneers instead of the Mr Cool. Mr Cool say's they patented the pre-charged line set, but I disagree since I installed a full blown indoor outdoor HVAC that had precharged indoor, line set and outdoor units back in 2002.
Unfortunately you are now stuck w R410A which is already getting phased out by new regulations on Jan 1 2025. R32 and R454B units will replace old R410A units. And no, you cannot use new refrigerants to recharge R410A units. R32 has been used for years in EU and Asia. For some reason, USA is so behind in this tech.
@@peterw.3816 True, but between both units, if they leak and can be repaired, a 25 lb cylinder should last me for quite some time.
10:51 What does “we dont have to worry about the neutral” mean? Is it just dangling in the panel? did you cap it with a nut? Cut it off?
13:37 How did you find the studs? did you find studs?
34:37 What is it at 3pm? That’s the real test.
If you have plumbing in your garage would this work too keep it warm enough to prevent freezing?
Great Video, not for everyone, you need some prerequisites like common sense, a good electrical and mechanical aptitude and patience, I possess all of these and I'd do this in a heartbeat! Thanks!
You are The Man.
Sound or audio is just fine. Thanks again for a good tutorial on a mini split. Looks like I am going to take one on for the bedroom now as the wife and I just watched this.
We're likely in the same boat. Our bedroom bakes in the sun all day and is typically warmer than the rest of the house so we might put a smaller unit in, despite having central air. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I bought 2 of the PRIME units and they rock!
Typically you get what you pay for. I went with a Mitsubishi and it’s flawless. Installed it myself 20+ years ago. I did pay an AC company to vacuum it down and open up the compressor. It was worth the $300. I saved $2500 over the quote to buy and install the same unit from an AC company. Also had to run power from the front to the back of the house. No idea what they would of wanted for that. It wasn’t included in the quote. It took me 4 hours to run it.
Where did you end up sourcing the Mitsubishi from? ACDirect?
Mitshubishi invented the minisplit..... FAR SUPERIOR MINISPLIT on the market... all these cheap knock off minisplits are not allowed or spec'd out by engineers for commercial/industrial applications... the top dogs of minisplits are fujitshu,Mitshubishi and daikin... everything else is just cheap imitations not worth fixing... disposable minisplits... this is not my opinion! This is my 30 yr experience
A few comments. 1. Torque wrenches are not very accurate at the end of their range. An inch-lb range (generally 1/4" drive) would be better for the 1/4" line but a 3/8" drive which usually has a low end value of 5 would probably be okay. 2. When using crowfeet with a torque wrench the torque value needs to be adjusted unless the crowfoot is at a 90 degree angle with the wrench. Generally with a crowfoot, the applied torque will be greater than what the wrench is configured for unless the crowfoot is at 90 degrees.
A little trick you can try when mounting something that requires the holes to line up properly. Take a piece of paper and put it on the piece your needing to mount were the holes are that you need to line up and trace the piece out on the paper than poke through the holes on the paper where they are from the back of the piece your working with than take the paper and put it on the wall where you want your hole drilled and drill out the holes.
Just installed one; having someone to help and the correct tools, like the torque wrench, is extremely important. I cut my lines to size and flared them but had an issue with the 1/4 OD line set being too small. I contacted TOSOT, who confirmed that the OD of the 1/4 line set was not standard and that the flaring tool would not work. This caused me a lot of frustration, but I was able to get it to work with the use of sand in the flaring tool to keep the line from moving while creating the flare. As far as I am concerned, I did not come across a flare toolset that would natively accommodate their line size, and I believe the company should address this by using standard 1/4 OD lines, especially when their 3/8s line is standard size.
I ended up mounting this on the side of my house and it was a major mistake as the vibration was too much for me to work without distraction. I ended up buying a stand mount and mounting it on top of concrete pavers. My advice is not to mount the condenser on your house unless you are mounting it to brick or concrete walls.
Strangely, I installed one too, and the 1/4 was fine, but the 3/8s wasn't 3/8s, it was 12mm. I bought 3 flaring tools in order to get this sorted. In the end it was a tool with both metric and SAE that did the trick.
As so many other commented, never wrap stranded wire on a ground screw or any screw terminal. Too many electrical issues to list!
One thing mentioned that I thought was messed up, if you are correct about the control cable between the condenser and evap being 16 AWG, when name brand systems use min. 14 AWG.
People installing the Mr Cool and other cheaper versions of ductless mini-splits may be in for nightmares if they have problems, some mechanical contractors will not service those units. Buying name brand like Mitsubishi or LG, there are mechanical contractors that install and service them.
The power draw from the indoor unit is really low, only the fan pulls any measurable current. Wire size is based on current draw, 14 gauge is 15 amps, 12 gauge 20 amps, etc. 16 gauge is rated at 13 amps, which is the entirety of the unit as a whole. The indoor fan is also wired at 220, so that would be 13 per leg or a total of 26 amp draw. Would be surprised if the indoor unit pulled 5 amps tops.
@@acdii - Does not matter if the condensing unit is powered from a 230v/1 Ph. 15A or 20A breaker, if the 16 ga wire isn't fused accordingly at the condensing unit.
16 ga is rated for 10A, can't exceed 8A if a continuous load. Overcurrent protection shall be provided.
@@acdii Indoor unit power is around 100W, or a 1/2A on a 230VAC line. the fan does not draw much power, while the compressor does. Yes those wires need to be done using crimp on lugs, closed end for the ground connection, and open end possible for the power. More reliable, than the method shown, where the wire is not even formed to go around the screw of the barrier strip, or the ground screw. Plus left bare too long. Going to fall out after a few hundred cycles of operation as the screw loosens, as the wire is pulling the screw loose all the time.
The overnight cooling outside had as much or more to do with that 64° reading in the morning than the AC did. The AC can only maintain X° delta from ambient. Probably 20° of cooling was from outside the garage. You should let people know that because the implication was "Look, it's almost 30° cooler than outside!" and that is simply not the case.
You may want to check out his other videos. This garage is super insulated. Everything from the walls to the door itself. I agree though. I would have liked to have seen the temp change after it ran for about an hour. From there you can kind of get an idea of how well it was performing.
A coworker of mine did a Mr. cool mini split and when he had trouble with it, no contractor in town would work on it. He effectively had to buy a new one and.
All the more reason to get one of the non-name brands for a small fraction of the price of Mr Cool. If it last 30 days it'll probably last a few years, and if it does fail you can replace it and still be ahead versus a Mr Cool or one installed by a local HVAC contractor.
I'm fixing to stop installing customer purchased equipment. The quality is horrible on mini splits and I get blamed if they don't work correctly. I've got plenty of business, why should I shoot myself in the foot. I just installed one and the customer complained so bad about $450 charge I dropped it to $350. Never again. He's got another one he wants installed and thinks I'm going to do it for $350, wrong, I'm not doing it at all.
@@Bryan-Hensley It is not accurate to claim that "the quality is horrible on mini splits". There are many, many reputable manufactures making mini splits today and hundreds of millions of units are running right now, around the world.
@@paulmaxwell8851 I don't think that's what he meant when he said that. I interpreted that statement as "mini-splits purchased by customers are of horrible quality", this could also extend to the craftsmanship of the DIY install. Especially if people were to follow this video for example as there's a multiple errors that could be problematic later even if for the time being the unit works fine
@@Bryan-Hensley 450.00 is cheep, I charge $1,000.00 minimum for a single head $500 for each additional head.
What is the pvc material that you have? Where can I buy it?
I did not vacuum mine install at all. I was curious about that can of Kwik vac from Pioneer web-site for 35 bucks. I watched the video and did exactly what it said to do. I have had no problems out of mine it was very easy to install. I did buy me new refrigerant lines from ebay ,which I now do for all my installs saves time and money in the long run . I have installed 4 of these and flares leak at times even when done right, I have had no leaks sense going with new line sets . This guy makes perfect flares ,much better than I can. The lines they send look sketchy bad and on two of them when I got into them they were cracked when they got torqued down.
I always wondered about this when Mr Cool made a huge splash, and the big selling point was no vacuum pump... I wondered if you could buy a vacuum pump for cheaper then the Mr Cool markup. Seems like the answer is yes. And now you know you have full vacuum, vs Mr Cool where you are loosing a bit of vacuum when you install the lines.
You may want to look into crimp terminal kit for your wiring also its ok to leave wire loops instead of cutting the wires that short but its in conduit type so not to hard to rerun 😊
I used a 1 ton, Blueridge mini system, 1 in the shop, and a month later 1 in our living room. We have central in the house, but the mini split works great, and the central hardly ever turns on.
The benefit of the Mr Cool unit is that you don't need an HVAC license to install it. Other systems require you to fill them with refrigerant and good luck buying the refrigerant without an HVAC license, although I do know of a place or two that will sell you over the internet.
These units have the refrigerant installed in the unit already. Start watching at about 31:50 mark. Helps to watch the whole video.
@@spuddoright1970 good to know. But at half the price, how is the quality?
I installed my mini split lower and further away from the wall so i can clean it with ease. The fins in the back get dirty very fast and need to be cleaned twice a year.
So what is the downfall if you don’t have the minimum space from the top of the indoor unit and the ceiling? Great video.
Probably can't open the unit anymore to adjust the connections or remove the filter for cleaning, since the front cover hinges up.
You need space for the air intake.
Why didn’t you use a grommet or other connector on the outside disconnect box where you punched the knockout out for the supply power cable?
Could you make a video about power tools? Should I go with Dewalt Akita or ridge Makita?
I would recommend to install both units as low as possible because you will need to service them, clean them at least once a year, power wash them... For the indoor unit, especially in a workshop garage, you need to clean the air filter every 2 weeks., so better to keep the units easily accessible.
Ladders...that's why there are these things call ladders.
In many cases, it makes sense to do that - especially for the outdoor unit. The manual for all of these indoor units (regardless of brand) recommends that you keep them over 8' up to better circulate air. I chose to mount my outdoor unit high to prevent me from losing the use of the space underneath for our garbage cans and parking.
@@joesimonettiyou also have something called choices. A better choice is to lower it so you can clean and service it with ease.
@@joesimonetti Are you read to climb a ladder twice a month to clean the air filters? In every room of your house?
@@LRN2DIY I really don't see the point in circulating/cooling the air above your head. Unless you are moving a lot of air in the room, natural convection will keep the cool air at the bottom and the temperature may well be too hot around the ceiling, who cares?
A friend of mine used to have an office, with A/C only on the bottom floor, and an open stair case. I was afraid it would be pretty inefficient. But as you climbed the stairs, you could feel the difference: cool air kept down and second floor was way hotter.
Im thinking about doing a multi-zone install and was wondering if you are concerned about getting it serviced if you have problems? I was thinking two compressors for redundancy. TIA
Perhaps there is no vibration with stuco but I have the Mr. Cool unit with the same hanger and there WILL be vibration with standard siding. It's not bad by any means but you will hear it.
Could you please tell me what's the mean of R410A pre-charged outdoor unit?
You've got my interest but I'm standoffish for a few reasons
1. When the unit breaks and requires service, can I buy parts from them? If yes, who is the brand they've mimicked? (Daikin or Carrier?)
And 2. Do they make whole-home units or only mini-splits? (I'm still sitting on the fence for an ACiq unit for about 3k from HVAC Direct).
Buy Samsung, they are, along with Aux, the OEM for a large range of AC units. Aux for the cheapies, and Samsung for the mid price range units. Daytek also makes cheap units, but I know I can get spares for Samsung and Aux no problem, and for Daytek as well the Samsung compressors fit perfectly. Controls are another issue though, especially with inverter units, where when it blows you are replacing the AC unit, because the outdoor board (most likely to fail) will take out the compressor, or the other way round, so they get changed as a pair. Dumb non inverter ones the controller boards are very reliable, and with Samsung you only have really a single one for most of the range, which is reliable and also cheap, programmed from almost any Samsung remote control as well, and easy to find the instructions.
Mr Cool warranty is amazing and worth the extra $$
No, no it is not. Read the fine print. Here in Canada that warranty costs Can$235 each and every year for seven years. It excludes a second home owner, it excludes diagnostic costs, it excludes refrigerant, it excludes all labor. It's hardly worth the paper it's printed on. Go ahead and install the system, and save your money. If the system fails and you are unable to fix, it, replace it outright. Still cheaper than paying a local HVAC company; our charges about $600 an hour, based on the time spent on several local jobs..
What if I'm buying it to attach it to a few solar panels I already bought ..?
Can it even be configed to run direct off panels..? And if so, cheaply ..? THX!!
The crows foot changes the torque on the nut and the torque needs to be adjusted to compensate for the added leverage of the crows foot.
Don't stress about the torque. Most guys on YT who are tightening stuff without a torque wrench just say "CLICK" when they're in the ball park. If you've got the experience you can do that.😆
He also holds the torque wrench under the handle on the second set. Over torqued is better than under torqued I guess
is it noisy? The vibatrion on the wall?
Great video! But does the condenser need to be mounted to the side of the house or can it be mounted onto a concrete pad?
I've seen both. It's all personal preference.
Thanks for sharing the video. Seems like 6-8 more inches more to the left of the downspout would have been good for airflow.
I did the same with a Senville a few years ago at home. At my business a pro installed a big commercial AC unit. Last year the summer came and the AC failed - lost all the refrigerant, but my home install works perfect for 3 years now. So, I guess I did a cleaner install than the pro HVAC guy did lol. However I have to say I am not impressed with the cheap gauges as shown in the video just like the ones I used. It is hard to say how accurate they are on vacuum measurement, and the needle deflection range is very small. If I install another mini split some day I think I will splurge on one of those digital manifold units.
Nice work! I may get a nice digital manifold at some point too. I think for the average homeowner who might use them once or twice, it's probably sufficient, but if you're doing more than that the digital would be awesome.
Nils, you are forsure going to hit 1 million subs this video, congrats! 👏 👏
Thanks! Yup - should be in the next few days. Time to have a little celebration with the fam. :)
Hole too large behind disconnect, also unit too high above ground (wait till you have to service or troubleshoot it) while hanging of a ladder. Just to protect your unit, I would install a fuseable disconnect to protect the system from voltage spikes. I know it's not required but a saver in the long run. Also remember 4' radius minimum from all utility meters, electric or gas meters.
Did everything but pump it down and check for leaks. Local hvac tech did it for $100.00. Had to have licensed Tech to sign off on it to keep the 5 year warranty .
Mr cool hyper heat ducted 4ton I installed didn't have to vacuum.
20:02 is why insurance companies are starting to turn down claims when diy heating and ac equipment is installed. I've been turning down requests to come out and reinstall a mini split to get them to pass code
Why would you turn them down? I take it, then, that you do no DIY work at your own home? If a door knob to your bathroom quits locking, you don't go to Lowe's, you call a locksmith? No Draino ever crossed your threshold because if your sinks clog, you call a plumber? No DIY allowed at your house, I'm sure.
@@dalepres1 I don't mind if you work on your own.
After Covid insane quotes on jobs are forcing people to DIY projects around the home.
What Burn said if you don't have the proper fork terminals at least split the strands so you have equal pressure on the clamp to the wires, Your grounf wire is about to fall off.
What was the double track on your garage door?
It was actually a clip from when I was replacing the straight track with ThermoTracs. One was just next to the other while I was showing them side by side.
How much did you spend on your 3d printing setup?
Thanks for the content. There are other less expensive mini split systems on the jungle that the DYI HVAC Guy has recommended and installed. No need to spend a grand. My 2 cents.
I came to see if there was a reminder about why Mr Cool is more expensive, what were the advantages. If the install is exactly the same I wouldn't over pay for MrCool.
Check the warranties, that is where companies cut costs, Mr cool offers units with 7 or 10 year warranties. The other area where companies cut cost is in the quality of the internal components.
So how do you overcome gas heater in the garage?
I have a 400 SF garage that I want to put a mini split it. I have already put up a radiant barrier on the roll up door which helps a lot. I already have a hole to the outside cut into the wall for the lines. On the outside, that part of the unit can either sit on concrete or be mounted to the outside wall, and it is covered with an awning. I intend to use a 12,000 BTU unit rated for 750 SF- and I will be using a normal plug in, so no need to run any wiring. I'm looking for a ready to go out of the box, pre-charged unit. Any suggestions?
Does Tosot have any spare or replacement parts? Do they offer any support after buying their unit? I messaged them on their website asking about replacement parts but I got no reply!
I am surprised to see that you did not install a surge protector on this unit. Intermatic or Ditek make decent units. Install them outside at the disconnect box. Simple installation and they are considered standard install equipment by most manufacturers and professionals. Also, you did not mention it, but you did coil the excess lineset properly. When coiling the excess as you did, always keep the coils running horizontally to avoid creating an oil trap that can shorten the life of the equipment.
I would not mount it that close to the wall can't paint behind it could pump the refrigerant back in the ODU and disconnect it run the risk of leaking undoing the connections. I know they say can go down to 4" on a wall mount but go 12" have enough room to paint behind it with a small roller, and has more airflow. Using a crows foot to get the proper torque have to set it to 90 degrees on the end of the wrench.
No only does the nitrogen give you an indication that there isn’t a leak, but being pressurized can help to protect the unit from getting kinked.
Audio is fine for me
Stating that it doesn’t matter which leg of the 240VAC goes to which connection isn’t entirely true. They are different phases and there are situations where you don’t want different feeds to be out of phase from each other. Check your manual in each situation to ensure you have things handled appropriately.
Wrong
You are mistaken. Homes are single phase. There are two hot lines and a neutral. I know some people refer to 'two phases' but this is wrong.
@@paulmaxwell8851…’two phase is wrong’..
The transformer near your service point converts to ‘split phase’ portion, but is still single phase.
@@paulmaxwell8851 exactly, it's actually called split phase.
@@ernestgalvan9037 And because the two windings for the different legs are not going to be perfect... there are differences.
Good looking build.
You can rent torque wrenches, vacuum pump, and gauges from most Autoparts stores, for almost nothing or free.
i do have sound on both a pc browser and a iphone...
My primary need is for heat. I'm 80 yrs old so I'm old n cold. Haha I have a one room small cabin 24'x 10' with 7'6" ceiling. So I need a small unit. I'm off grid with large solar and wind power ( works day n night) i need description of heat output and over all Amp draw -- start up and running I have plenty power. Thanks for your detail. I didn't know I was gonna need the vac pump and need to need if I have to charge it?? With what?? We have Home Depot account so will source there. Dandahermit
Great video, love the shirt slogan.....can totally related to the super look of concentration.....😂🤣
I can't find 410a refrigerate or a replacement.
Great video but the electrical at 20:20 was a bit sloppy. The bottom right red wire, the clamp is twisted. And also the stranded grounding conductor should have like an eye let or something,i dont really like a stranded J hook.
3K more for the 1M subs... you're totally deserve it :)
I wonder what the extra cost to your utility bill is in one full year?
If you're going to spit out codes. Let's start off with the national electric code and the mandatory need to install a ground fault circuit interrupter, as well as place the AC unit on its own circuit.
The unit was on its own circuit. Why do you need a gfci in a non wet location?
@@quartzofcourse I did not say, that his, was not on its own circuit. What I did say was that according to the national electric code it is required. I'm not gonna debate on why (I would say that it would be considered a wet location since the condenser is sitting outside, and, there are things like power surges caused by lightning strikes that could damage your equipment).
www.google.com/search?q=NEC+code+AC+on+its+own+circuit&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS907US907&oq=NEC+code+AC+on+its+own+circuit&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBBjgzajBqOagCALACAeIDBBgBIF8&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Thanks for this. I just installed two Pioneers, and did not know of 210.8(F). Will get a pair of breakers installed with GFCI. Makes total sense too.
@@quartzofcourse outdoors is non-wet? Air conditioners create condensation, it's wet no matter where you put it.
@@quartzofcourse Hum, mounting an AC outdoor unit, is usually a wet location. Ya know outdoors, where it rains.......????
Awesome video. I'm not confident enough in my skills to pull this off yet though.
Instead of needle nose pliers to remove the rockwool, I was thinking, if you have a pair of tongs in your kitchen they should grab onto more insulation.
audio is fine
Why wouldn’t you cut line set to length? I know you would need to flair ends and reuse nuts.
You forgot the protective collar for hole in the a/c disconnect from the electrical panel.
I’m sure you have a bunch of “professional electricians“ in your comments, but consider adding a NM clamp connector to the back of your disconnect where the Romex comes in. Great work otherwise!!
How is it working during the hottest part of the day with full sunshine?
I can tell you from having another one (12,000 BTU Tosot unit sitting in direct sun all day every day) that they really do work amazingly well. Like any condenser unit (including central air) having it in the shade is ideal but they're built to work well in direct sunlight even at temps up to 122°F and down to -13°F.
A friend of mine is an HVAC tech. He went to China on the factory that makes minisplits. ALL brands are literally made at the same factory - they just put different quality parts inside. Seriously, all brands from 1K to 10K are made in the same warehouse:)
Btw the extension and crows foot threw off the torque. There’s math equations to find the correct setting. Though I’m sure you’re close enough. That torque spec is probably just so people don’t over tighten and strip the threads/ruin threads.
No problem, Just say "CLICK" when you're in the vicinity of the right torque and you'll be ok. 😉
looks great but my HOA wont let me have this hanging out like that.. I will get a letter :D
Thanks for this video, it was very informative, I want to do mine, but it scares the s.... out of me bending those cooper lines.
I'm from Australia and I've never heard of anyone installing a split in a garage, why would you need to heat or cool the draughty place your car is? Anyway we have been installing splits in every house since the early 00s as often the primary heating and cooling method as it's much cheaper than gas or resistive to heat now that we export all the gas overseas. Also I've never heard of either those brands, do you not have the big Japanese brands like Daikin, Mitsubishi, Panasonic and Fujitsu in America? We also now have Korean splits from Samsung, LG and Hyundai and now Chinese brands like Hisense and a Taiwanese one TECO.
I have seen Mr cool installs, and seems the biggest difference is you vacuumed and tested the seal, where the mr cool installers I have watched never tested that. They just opened the valves. But since you didn't add any refrigerat, what's the difference?? I'm new at the ac world, so maybe I'm missing something.