I wish I could like this video twice. I've watched it like 4 times, all on separate occasions and I know I'm going to watch it again when my unit comes. Great to-the-point explanation with perfectly clear instructions. Loved it.
I just watched one of your DIY videos. And I was awesome. Then I saw you made one for a Mr. Cool. Great video. For all you out there looking to install one yourself. Do it. I live in Connecticut. One of the highest electric rates in the nation. The average bill bounces up almost 500 bucks a month for June, July, and August. Goes from 200 to 700. It pays for it in savings. Buy the time I brought everything to install my 36,000 btu unit. Wire, 40 amp breaker ect. Was probably about 7 grand. But at 1500 bucks a year. Within 5 years it paid for itself. Very comfortable and quiet. Couldn't be happier. Do it. One of the most satisfying jobs I ever did.
I just completed the install of the same 18k unit. I also did the electrical myself thanks to YT and help from a local electrical supply house. I watched prob 20 YT videos before-hand... to the point I could walk through the install process in my sleep. One tip; the condensate drain hose from the air handler is very flimsy plastic material. I can't see how it would last over time with temperature changes. I replaced it (right at the 5/8" OD connector on the back of the air handler) with 5/8" ID reinforced PVC tubing. It took me two significant efforts contacting MrCool to properly identify the size of the connector. I wanted to have the replacement hose ready before I purchased the unit, as I did for all tools, parts and accessories. You mentioned the challenge of finding wall mount racks suitable for 32" wooden wall studs -- no kidding! I ended up going all stainless... the 2 vertical racks, as well as 6 - 3/8" hanger bolts (SS) I ordered online to mount the brackets to the sidewall. The rack is 'stood-off' from the siding with about a 1" space to allow for painting around it. To bridge the 32" space between the two vertical stainless mounting brackets, I got 2, 2x4 aluminum bar stock pieces to bridge between the brackets and mount the condenser to. And ALL SS hardware everywhere. All in, I spent over $170 in mounting rack hardware. Even though it's mounted on the exterior garage wall with all the space of a garage between the condenser and the house living space, it will vibrate the wall enough that it sounds like a truck is passing by on the street sometimes. I'm investigating different vibration isolation pads that might improve the situation. In this video the extra lineset coil is stored vertically, which contradicts the MrCool instructions. In multiple other YT videos HVAC people have commented this is bad, as it can lead to oil collecting in the lines and affect performance. They should be coiled horizontally. In my case the line set ran over my garage rafters and I was able to coil the extra horizontally there. The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. Also, I used a 25 amp breaker, with 10/2 Romex, at the suggestion of others, including the people at the electrical supply house after showing them the units electrical specs. It was a very satisfying project to complete -- I'm very happy with it. My experiences with MrCool customer service have not been so great however when I had questions.... getting someone to respond takes a lot of patience and perseverance. I hope I don't have any issues with it as I feel I will be mostly on my own. As observation is that I don't understand how their warranty can even be legal. To get the full warranty they require you to purchase, TWICE A YEAR, their $70 maintenance kit, which is a MASSIVE RIP-OFF. You can get a much better quality, reusable evaporator enclosure bag on Amazon for $30. Who doesn't have pump sprayers (or buy a $25 Chapin), and buy more more reasonably-priced coil cleaner ($10-12/can). Or, do what many HVAC pros do and mix some Dawn with white vinegar to spray the coils with. So if I PROPERLY clean my unit twice a year for a FRACTION, and I mean FRACTION of what the MrCool kit costs ($700 for 5 years!), then I have no warranty. Nice.
Regarding the coiling of the line set,the only thing is that it’s too much…which would restrict the required amount of oil goin back to the compressor but the line set can be vertical with just a U shape behind the condenser and right into the connection.
@@nicola3060 I think I got mine on Amazon. Reply here if you want me to look up the item and I will. But if it's the same unit as mine, the important thing is the 5/8" ID. It's a bit of an odd-ball size as far as PVC tubing goes so a hardware store may not have it.
"The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. " - ok, i've been wondering about this! my outdoor unit will basically sit behind the indoor, and I don't want this ridiculous coil getting buried by snow, covered in spider webs, etc. are you able to completely get rid of the the refrigerant coil? where did you get your AC Whip?
Great video. In our house the wall mount bracket for the Mr Slim Mitsubishi' s did transmit a loud vibration to the interior as the variable fan speed ramped up and down. Very irritating. I solved it by ordering four silicone vibration isolating pads with threaded rods up and down. They were round, shaped like a squishy bell, and totally cured the noise issue.
I have the same issue. In the house it sounds like a truck is driving by the house, even with an entire garage between the condenser and the living space. Can you provide a link for the vibration pads please!!
@@EverydayHomeRepairsthanks for sharing. One suggestion and I'm not sure it's right because I'm not an expert but it sounds plausible. The coil should be underneath the unit rather than behind it. I guess having it coiled horizontally makes a difference with some type of lubricant in the line. Having it coiled vertically I guess the fluid can't make it back to the compressor.
I mounted my outside unit on four PVC pylons filled with concrete and bolted the unit into the pylons. They're two feet tall. It's NH so we could get a 2' snow storm and have in the past.
One thing about the extra coiled line, the coils should be in the horizontal direction not vertical, this might have fluid sitting on the bottom of one of the loops.
The system is designed to provide enough velocity to force any refrigerant or oil back to the compressor without issue regardless of coiled lineset orientation.
Well the confusing part is there are systems that are called mini-splits but its a whole house traditional AC unit with ducting, air handler and ect. Those are expensive
You could report ir give the company a negative review depending , if it's a very large and elaborate project then I understand but 850 sq foot system eekkkk . I wonder how many seniors and so on there ripping off , that's like the 80 quote someone gave me to change my 30 second job for the air filter on my vehicle
Yep. I paid $6800 for a 5 zone manifold big Carrier (tall two fans) and three floor mount heads which are more expensive than the ugly over door wall hanger default. Installed. It was a raised wood floor crawl space victorian cottage 1888 build and the guys were there all day with perfect cut custom lines. I haven't had a single problem with the system...and happy to have gutted out the old underfloor ducts done in the 1970s now savaged by possums and racoons. The guys even yanked out much of the dead ducts for me and disposed of them. I had to do about half the remaining dead ducts. I've helped guys do premade simple systems and it isn't hard when you mount the unit next to panel service and the head is on the adjacent wall. However that would have been very hard on my old house as the lines snaked under the house like plumbing.
It looks great! I put one in our back room (not on the home hvac). It works ok with heating, but really shines in the summer for cooling. I put ours on a concrete pad, but your wall mount came out really clean, especially with that extra line set coil.
I just took delivery of my 2nd Mr Cool, this one is a 24,000 btu unit for my workshop. The shop is a separate (from the main house) building with it's own 200 Amp panel. I have already run the 240 circuit using #8 wire with a 35 Amp breaker in EMT out to a non fused service cutoff and all rain tight compression fittings. The compressor will be on a wall bracket. I will be fabricating a special longer bracket in order to hit 3 studs to lag it in. Tomorrow I'll begin installing it, and welding up the custom wall bracket mount. The main house upstairs Bonus Room had a new Mr Cool already when we got here in March of 2023. I have to say, this is a really wonderful product. It keeps the Bonus Room upstairs at a steady 75 degrees regardless of the month or weather. It is super quiet and so far has worked flawlessly. Like I say, it came with the house but was newly installed just prior to our buying here, so I didn't install it. I'm looking forward to learning all about it when I install this new unit in the workshop. I like the Bonus Room unit so much I decided to go with another one. 5 Stars for Mr Cool. Further, as a solid dedicated DIY guy, I love the pre-charged system and being able to do it all myself.
I have DYI several mini splits. I use a vacuum pump and the correct length lines to make a more professional instalation. Also the outside disconnect does not need to be fused..
I assume he didn't use a vacuum pump because his refrigerant lines are sealed, some aren't and just have a bell opening, he *Could* use a dry clean gas/extra refrigerant Just to add pressure to check for leaks on his 4 Refrigerant Line nuts and the Service Valves.(Service Valves Closed)
Great video, Scott! Please consider a follow-up video in which you add an Intermatic surge protector to the outside heat pump disconnect. Nearly all heat pump outdoor units are packed with circuit boards that can be thousands to replace with even a slight utility line surge, not to mention nearby lightning strikes. Adding one of these surge-protection units is about a 20-minute, 60 dollar project-way short money considering the protection you're adding. Of course, you may already have in-circuit-panel protection for the whole house -another possible video we'd love to see.
One thing I noticed with all these DIY videos of installing minisplits is that no one mentions that they should be cleaned periodically. In order to do so, room should be left under the minisplit for the drain bag when cleaning. This was a great video.
In colder climates store excess coil flat on the ground, curl up in behind like shown could allow oil in the system to pool and freeze blocking gas flow doesn't take much.
Please mention or note that this mrcool hole saw is an additional expense and not included with every system. Customers call all the time and ask why they didn’t get their hole saw. James at MrCoolDirect Id also note that the coils of excess line set should remain in a horizontal orientation so the lubricant oil in the system doesn’t pool in the low spots and starve the compressor of oil because of gravity holding oil in the low spots in a vertical coil. Great very informative video thank you for putting out this video
Thank you! Getting ready to install a 12k unit in our garage soon. Loved the extra tips on using and sealing the outside box and of course, being careful not to kink the hoses.
Have a 12 k single ordered. This is the best install video I’ve seen yet. Mine is 115v to cool and heat a 14x28 insulated wood shed. I think it’s going to work great. Thanks for the info. 😎👍
I watched your video on this installation and the one thing that is really important I didn’t see was checking your refrigeration lines for potential leaks because if one of the connections is leaking to repair it you will have to call in a professional to evacuate and weigh in the proper refrigerant charge. If that happens when he’s there you might as well have the line set shortened and if you saved the line cover kit install the line cover so that it covers all the lines to the service port for a nice clean mostly sealed install. The other issues I would address is by mounting the condenser on the wall outside I would recommend about 24 inches above the ground will avoid lawn maintenance issues in the future. Other than that everything else was on point.
Everything looks great and you did an awesome job of explaining the whole install in simple terms. One thing to note however, is it's been in several NEC code cycles now, but you'll want to let people know that code requires a GFCI protected outdoor receptacle within reach of the disconnect and the outdoor condenser unit. It's required for servicing the unit.
@@sammax4245 No there isn't. The GFCI mentioned isn't about the 240V disconnect. Code asks for an 120V GFCI receptacle within the area of that 240V disconnect for service technicians to be able to use... whether it's a disconnect for a condenser, pool, hot tub, solar PV, etc. For example, an HVAC tech may need to pull a vacuum on the linesets of the condenser. His equipment needs to plug into a receptacle that is obviously GFCI protected.
Not that I agree with it, but code says all condensers need to be on a gfci circuit. Apparently some kid climbed on to a condenser and grabbed a steel fence and died. In the knee jerk country we live in, they now require gfci’s. Yes gfci protected 120v receptical is required as well.
@@ericanderson9004 Whoa! That's a new one. Horrible! What sucks is the costs of these GFCI breakers are so crazy that it makes people cheat and try to avoid installing them, at the cost of human safety.
Your voice is relaxing to listen to - I don't even have one of these!
4 месяца назад+22
These Mr. Cools are made in China by the company who makes "gree", if you want something that will last alot longer go for the Daikin (Japan). Same installation process, like others have mentioned get yourself a Vacuum, and a flare and copper cutter kit to trim those lines properly. Very helpful video by Everyday Repairs.
Daikin AC is made in China too.What’s wrong with Gree AC?
4 месяца назад+5
@@dehutech1072 Sorry honey do your research as of March 2024 Daikin Japan no longer relys on parts from China to build its airconditioners however it was always designed and built in Japan. Nothing wrong with gree but it will certainly not last anywhere near as long.
I have a Mr Cool 9000 btu Unit, a little over 14 months in use, in August of 2023, unit failed, I couldn't get a response from Mr. Cool. Local HVAC charged over $300 for freon and labor, 8 months later unit failed, finally reached Mr Cool. They didn't care about my having to pay already, plus they demanded $250 to ship like unit one state away. I finally went and picked up the replacement unit. One day (600 miles round trip) and spent $60 in gas to get a replacement "UNDER WARRENTY".
There's no refrigerant in the lines, they're just pulled to a vacuum, which you pierce when you connect the lines. All the refrigerant is in the unit, which is released when you open up the valves. "Precharged" is just not true, they're "prevacuumed". You could also just order any decent mini split from Daikin or Mitsubishi, get a $150 vacuum pump and do it properly yourself. You'll save yourself hundreds of dollars. The hardest part is not kinking the copper lines, but if you get a $50 tube bunder for AC lines, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle.
One of the greatest features of a Mr Cool are the leak proof connectors. Cut and flared lines leak, period. These dont and thats gold for diy ers. Takes the skill and experience out of the equation.
They are pre charged with refrigerant. They sell line sets up to 50 feet. An outdoor condenser is usually only pre charged rated for 16 feet of line. MrCool units, using their line set, can run upwards of 80 feet, with a maximum of 232 total feet for their DIY units. There is no possible way they are over charging their condensers to support 232 total line feet, the unit would not cool effectively at all anymore. This is from the no-vac pre charged line set customer brochure. 100% Accurately Precharged R410A Refrigerant 15 FT 1.94 OZ 25 FT 3.17 OZ 35 FT 9.77 OZ 50 FT 19.44 OZ
Love the content. Keep it up. I would suggest insulating that garage. It will keep the unit from constantly cycling, reduce the electrical bill, and increase the longevity of the mini split unit.
If the unit is cycling wouldn’t that means that the unit is larger than the space? Plus is the unit an Inverter?It as 4core 2.5 mm wire which inverters use…so if the garage is not insulated properly,the opposite would happen(the unit will run continuously)which would also ramp up the unit to maximum speed for both the condenser fan and the variable speed compressor.
@r410a6 Yes, causing your electrical bill to increase. Not to mention the strain on your unit ensuring your local HVAC tec a new boat from all the repairs you're going to need. Bottom line is insulate the enclosed area.
Great job with upgrading to SS fasteners! The only thing I would have done differently is place the disconnect box 1-2ft higher...out of the splash zone.
Nice video. Another helpful tip is to run the line set, power, and drain down the wall on the inside when able like your setup would have been great. Looks much nicer and more professional stub out at the bottom next to the outside unit. Grace and Peace Slick
That would have been cleaner for sure and I considered it for this garage. I decided to go a more "traditional" route to try and align with what would be more common for the viewer. Thanks for the feedback 👊
100%. That's exactly what I did. The lineset/power cables go directly through the wall straight out to the condenser. For those who aren't working with an insulated, finished interior space, why wouldn't you do it that way??
Very good and practical installation.A few things could’ve been done before releasing the precharged system such as: vacuuming the line set with a vacuum pump,because moisture is in that line set.but otherwise from that not bad at all.
Bravely saying "about 2000 dollars" really helps ballpark costs. By now I think everyone knows to look at how old or recent a video is, and they know prices change. Thanks for the video
Have been considering mrCool diy and this video showed me that I think I'll be able to do it... thank you so much... subscribed in order to be able to see what other projects you make look easy...😊
The coil of excess lineset should be horizontal. You can have pooling of refrigerant. I am no pro, but I have installed a few of these and the instructions point this out.
Very good video and installation. In my area, we have trouble with what we call 'dirt dobbers'. These wasp like insects like to crawl into very small places like the condensate drain. On mine they did in a way that I did not see them till their mud plug closed off the drain and my overflow storage area inside the room began to leak badly. I had no idea it was plugged. I used a clothes hanger wire to unplug the pipe end. I then took a plastic bag and sliced open the bottom of the bag. I then tied the handle portion of the bag around the lower section of the drain so that the water would run out and they could not walk up the bag to the opening. End of problem. I change the bag each spring.
Very good, well done presentation. You explained things better than other presentations I have seen where they left some things a little bit unclear. Your demo is very clear and understandable. Thank you.
Great video as always. Stumbled upon this many months later after installing the eufy security cameras as I am in the market for a couple of these. Intimidating project!
I have an old stone home in portugal and was quoted €3,200 for two 1,200k units complete installed. I asked around the village and was told to use a different guy, he quoted me €1,550 for the same two units installed. He did the job while I was not in the country, he sent pictures each step of the way and decided to relocate the placement of the upstairs unit, he did charge me a total of €1,650 with the extra charge for the extra work and materials to relocate. This summer when I returned I found both units professionally installed with white box conduit run at the ceiling meets wall area, each corner perfectly mitered and all holes sealed. The only signs that he was there were the units, no dust anywhere. He was as professional as any craftsman I have seen. He refused to take a deposit and actually waited until both units were installed and fully functional before billing us and then offered for us to wait to return to portugal to inspect before we paid. He of course was paid immediately and we have recommended him to a few other people.
Don't know if one already exists, but a dual-level wall mount with locking features sounds attractive so the coil could lie flat on level one and the unit could be locked onto level two. Easy to visualize.
Hi, I did a Mr. Cool DIY install a year ago and it went fine. However my inspector called me on two items. (1) The coils of extra cannot touch the ground (don't know why.) (2) You need safety caps on your main unit connection valves, not the regular caps the manufacturer supplies. Safety caps need a special tool to remove. This is North American standard, The reason is, some kids have been killed by removing the standard caps and sniffing the refrigerant. This is one more requirement written in blood, like many code requirements. Mr. Cool should know better but they consistently ignore this code requirement.
very informative I would like to point out that the line kit is not pre charged the condenser is also would like to point out you should vacuum down the the system (that is what the 3rd cap is for on the condenser). good video
Pro tip: Start drilling your 3.5” hole from the inside & when you’re halfway through, go outside and begin drilling about half and inch or an inch lower than the hole inside. Your drains will always have proper fall
Great video only thing i will correct you on is that the line set are not charged the refrigerant is actually in the compressor and is released when you open your valves so if you didn't want to coil you line and cut them to length instead you are able to do so
It probably would have been to your advantage to mount the outside unit 20 inches from the wall incase you need to get there in the future. It would also increase air flow and make the condenser fan work easier. Had you used an EG4 AC unit. You could connect solar panels directly to the unit. I'm running a 24k unit and on a hot day it's drawing 540 watts until the room cools down. At night it runs under 400 watts. The EG4 AC also comes with precharged lines. I would also recommend Nylon blue on every connection. Stay cool.
I did one last year or two on my garage. I also did the wall bracket and wish I hadn't. The bracket is designed for use with concrete, which is why it's only 30" wide, and on wood framing will vibrate noise into the garage. Also, my garage was done to ADU standards, insulated and sheet rocked. To get the most out of your unit, insulation and some kind of wall covering will help. Is that shelf staying there? It will block some of the air flow. I've had mine going all winter and it hasn't missed a beat. I do get a bit of a hum form the outside unit mounted on the wall. Mine is a 12k 120 unit.
Nice installation, you covered all the important details about it. On the other hand, installing this unit in an uninsulated garage makes no sense to me.
You have a breaker on the subpanel. The fused disconnect is redundant and more expensive. All you need is the external disconnect. Otherwise, you are one of a few that gets the electrical part spot on, right down to making sure no more 1/2" sheathing remains in an enclosure. Good job.
I installed a two head Mr. Cool in my VT home about 18 months ago. It has been working great. The few days in summer that I need it it cools the home quickly and I did get to test the unit once in winter when it was -16 F outside. It produced heat without issue. My oil use is down tremendously and I am planning a DIY solar setup this some to save even more cash.
Great DIY video but a vacuum nitrogen test is a must its purges the line of impurities and checks for leaks. that over time damage the A/C. This requires test gauge and a vacuum I bought it and was worth it as you probably save $2000 plus by installing this yourself I also found some used equipment as others have done the same and sell the equipment when done leak test is a must i micro leak emptied my neighbors split over 2 months and cost $900 to repair and recharge.
I think installing the provided sleeve regardless of finished or unfinished interior wall would be ideal. Might have to do some extra prep work to support the sleeve properly.
Interesting video, nice clean installation. The only thing I might have done differently would have been to place the unit to the left of the dropped lines rather than to the right. Just my OCD talking here but it would of allowed the lines to be run in a very similar pattern without having to put a kink in them prior to hookup. Very trivial point but one that would need to have been fixed prior to charging the lines. That and your wire run to the box inside would have been shorter saving wire. The only other thing I might think about would to possibly hang the external unit higher on the wall to get it off the ground and away from possible harm that could come from children, pets, or others that may be in your backyard.
Raise the external unit higher is a good point too also keep the condenser out of the dirt line on the Wall it will greatly help keep the cooling fins clean in the unit.
Excellent video! Will be referencing for my own install. The only thing I would have added is to check the connections for leaks with some soapy water. But I understand these seldom do leak.
@parkinglotpatty2911 flare fittings leak all the time, whoever told you they seldom leak is 1, trying to make money on you later, or 2 doesn't have a clue what they are talking about
Nice to see the process. I believe Code requires a service receptacle within 25ft of the exterior equipment. I'd continue the drain pipe down to near the ground and perhaps install a gravel filled dry well.
Wouldn't it be better to test out the system first before wrapping the connections and the refrigerant lines? Otherwise you might have to undo a lot of that work if there is a problem.
One thing to note is that the wall-mount bracket that mrcool sells for the 18k model (which is different than what's shown here) only allows the unit to be 4" from the wall (although mrcool recommmends 6"). But what makes this a real problem is trying to (carefully) bend the refrigerant lines enough to get them aligned well enough to screw the couplings together. I had to unbolt the compressor and move it away from the wall, then screw the couplings together, then carefully bent the lines enough to get the unit back into position.
I’ve been a subscriber of yours for well over a year and I really appreciate your videos. You did a really good job with this one. However, I am a little bit concerned about the extra refrigerant lines being in the vertical position. I would prefer to see them horizontal. It will help with oil return to the compressor.
@@bertveldhuizen8699 that goes against everything I’ve learned - so I checked. Page 27, bottom right: mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-es-im-um-en-01.pdf
I installed one of these a couple of years ago and have lost sleep thinking about leaving my lines vertical, but there was really no other choice given all the extra line I had. Even thought about calling in an HVAC company to remove the excess. That said, 2+ years later everything is still working great.
Excellent detailed description, and very good video as well. Thanks for taking the time to provide this! Would you please provide some info about your battery/inverter power units? Thanks again!
Great common sense advice. Any DIY with experience in construction or appliance repair should be able to pull this off. Take your time and don't take any shortcuts. What a great product. So much more economical than working with a plumber or HVAC professional.
Word of warning. Mounting the condenser unit on a bracket, the bracket will transfer sound vibrations to the wall, not a lot. But worth considering. I mounted mine on a bracket, now wish I hadn’t. May change it.
Here in Brazil it’s always custom loop, and condensers always come preloaded with gas for 15 feet of tubing. Actually most manufacturers require installers to use at least 15 feet, no matter how long you need, for dampening and flow reasons.
Oi Luis, Tudo Bem? Thanks for the feedback from Brazil. I have seen that most the new builds down there come with mini-split ready construction but looked like you have to purchase/install your own units in the living spaces or just bedrooms. Is that correct?
Great video! unfortunately, I came across this AFTER I had installed my mini-split. I wish I had seen this earlier. For example, I have an appliance dolly like yours, but I didn't think to use it to mount the unit. I muscled it up by myself. My back is still sore. 🤕
In Northern climate zones, with frequent snow accumulation, installing the outdoor unit on a pad or slab will lead to a total failure. In a defrost mode, ice will build up underneath, and eventually lead to blocking air flow, and possibly find the fan blades hitting on the ice. For the same reason, the outside unit should, at a minimum, be two feet above the grade, as ice buildup during the defrost mode can and will easily get two feet tall.
I was led to believe that the lines that you attach are empty and that the refrigerant is entirely in the outdoor unit which is released through the lines when you open the high pressure valve. Which is also why they typically recommend that prior to opening the valve the system is pressure tested and vacuumed. I also did not realize that the indoor unit lines are nitrogen charged so when you take off the caps off you got a loud blast.
Just a quick glance, either the top plate of the wall you mounted the handler to is out of level or the handler itself is (by about a 1/2-3/4 inch across the length of the handler.) Could just be a trick of the camera as well. Otherwise great install! (Sorry, OCD kicked in.)
My main concern has to do with the refrigerant used. It was expensive because it was hard to find. Learning this, I decided to hold off buying one of these units until I know more about the refrigerant. I realize the lines come precharged, but I always prepare for the worst.
I believe this is mis-informing. The line set is not charged with refrigeration, the compressor is. Also before opening the compressor valves you need to use nitrogen to do a pressure test then after about an hour, if it holds pull a vacuum to below 500 microns. Overall neat job with a few corrections.
Air handler is a bit close to that top shelf. You would get better air dispersion if it was mounted 18” + above the shelving. The movable louvers can disperse the air in a downward direction so heat would be more effective directed toward the floor. (Of course the opposite is true for cooling mode) Otherwise, looks like a great job!
A bit close is an understatement. Read the instructions there is a minimum dimension required above the floor, which is now a shelf. No reason not to move it 3' to the right
On the lineset, something folks should know is that you should never just tuck the lineset vertically behind the condenser like he's doing. If you have extra lineset like this, it should be coiled horizontal under it, if it isn't(ideally) cut to length. Reason being you are going to have the lubricant within the lines pool at the bottom vertical coil otherwise, and eventually the compressor is just going to wear prematurely. I had this beaten into me multiple times by HVAC techs while researching mini-splits before I had mine installed in my garage. PLEASE head this warning, especially if you want your warranty to hold up.
I need to check the instructions again. I know the coil was called out but didn't see them specifically calling out horizontal. Either way, thanks for the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs It's mentioned in the install manual at the bottom of page 27, but they don't really point it out as clearly as they should! The image on page 32 would be an excellent place to speak to that as well, BUT THEY DON'T, so it's no wonder a lot of people miss that detail and make this mistake.
I installed a Mr Cool non DIY dual zone split system 3.5 years ago. Both units running great no problems. I really dont like the coiled up line left over with the diy kit.
Installing mini-splits DYI is one thing but the key to having them last is maintenance. Keeping them clean is another. The outside condenser coil is straight forward although the inside air handler is a bit more involved. Just cleaning the removable permanent filters isn’t enough to prevent issues over time and a professional will have to be called in. The components in the air handler are fragile and not knowing how to disassemble and properly clean could result in damage.
Good video but from experience I will add , do NOT use electrical tape on line set drain bundle . Electrical tape tightens or constricts and has kinked drain lines in the past and caused leaks inside . Only use duct tape for bundling
It's interesting that they pre-charge the lines with Freon instead of a vacuum. The older systems have the charge stored in the compressor and you have to pull a vacuum on the lines and air handler then open the valves on the compressor. I actually prefer these because I don't like having all that excess line. Admittedly, I do have a vacuum and gauge set, so it's not a big deal.
I wish I could like this video twice. I've watched it like 4 times, all on separate occasions and I know I'm going to watch it again when my unit comes. Great to-the-point explanation with perfectly clear instructions. Loved it.
he also should have drilled his wall hole angled down to the outside to allow a down slop for the water to drain out better naturally....
How did your install go?
Man get up and do something, you have nothing to do? 😅
I liked it again for you 😊
I just watched one of your DIY videos. And I was awesome. Then I saw you made one for a Mr. Cool. Great video. For all you out there looking to install one yourself. Do it. I live in Connecticut. One of the highest electric rates in the nation. The average bill bounces up almost 500 bucks a month for June, July, and August. Goes from 200 to 700. It pays for it in savings. Buy the time I brought everything to install my 36,000 btu unit. Wire, 40 amp breaker ect. Was probably about 7 grand. But at 1500 bucks a year. Within 5 years it paid for itself. Very comfortable and quiet. Couldn't be happier. Do it. One of the most satisfying jobs I ever did.
I just completed the install of the same 18k unit. I also did the electrical myself thanks to YT and help from a local electrical supply house. I watched prob 20 YT videos before-hand... to the point I could walk through the install process in my sleep.
One tip; the condensate drain hose from the air handler is very flimsy plastic material. I can't see how it would last over time with temperature changes. I replaced it (right at the 5/8" OD connector on the back of the air handler) with 5/8" ID reinforced PVC tubing. It took me two significant efforts contacting MrCool to properly identify the size of the connector. I wanted to have the replacement hose ready before I purchased the unit, as I did for all tools, parts and accessories.
You mentioned the challenge of finding wall mount racks suitable for 32" wooden wall studs -- no kidding! I ended up going all stainless... the 2 vertical racks, as well as 6 - 3/8" hanger bolts (SS) I ordered online to mount the brackets to the sidewall. The rack is 'stood-off' from the siding with about a 1" space to allow for painting around it. To bridge the 32" space between the two vertical stainless mounting brackets, I got 2, 2x4 aluminum bar stock pieces to bridge between the brackets and mount the condenser to. And ALL SS hardware everywhere. All in, I spent over $170 in mounting rack hardware.
Even though it's mounted on the exterior garage wall with all the space of a garage between the condenser and the house living space, it will vibrate the wall enough that it sounds like a truck is passing by on the street sometimes. I'm investigating different vibration isolation pads that might improve the situation.
In this video the extra lineset coil is stored vertically, which contradicts the MrCool instructions. In multiple other YT videos HVAC people have commented this is bad, as it can lead to oil collecting in the lines and affect performance. They should be coiled horizontally. In my case the line set ran over my garage rafters and I was able to coil the extra horizontally there.
The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own.
Also, I used a 25 amp breaker, with 10/2 Romex, at the suggestion of others, including the people at the electrical supply house after showing them the units electrical specs.
It was a very satisfying project to complete -- I'm very happy with it. My experiences with MrCool customer service have not been so great however when I had questions.... getting someone to respond takes a lot of patience and perseverance. I hope I don't have any issues with it as I feel I will be mostly on my own.
As observation is that I don't understand how their warranty can even be legal. To get the full warranty they require you to purchase, TWICE A YEAR, their $70 maintenance kit, which is a MASSIVE RIP-OFF. You can get a much better quality, reusable evaporator enclosure bag on Amazon for $30. Who doesn't have pump sprayers (or buy a $25 Chapin), and buy more more reasonably-priced coil cleaner ($10-12/can). Or, do what many HVAC pros do and mix some Dawn with white vinegar to spray the coils with. So if I PROPERLY clean my unit twice a year for a FRACTION, and I mean FRACTION of what the MrCool kit costs ($700 for 5 years!), then I have no warranty. Nice.
Regarding the coiling of the line set,the only thing is that it’s too much…which would restrict the required amount of oil goin back to the compressor but the line set can be vertical with just a U shape behind the condenser and right into the connection.
PVC for the drain pipe is smart. Mine is 3/4 years old and the flimsy tube has been a problem.
@@nicola3060 I think I got mine on Amazon. Reply here if you want me to look up the item and I will. But if it's the same unit as mine, the important thing is the 5/8" ID. It's a bit of an odd-ball size as far as PVC tubing goes so a hardware store may not have it.
"The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. " - ok, i've been wondering about this! my outdoor unit will basically sit behind the indoor, and I don't want this ridiculous coil getting buried by snow, covered in spider webs, etc. are you able to completely get rid of the the refrigerant coil? where did you get your AC Whip?
@guitarchitectural I got it, and all my electrical parts at an electrical supply store...the type of place that caters to the electrical contractors.
Great video. In our house the wall mount bracket for the Mr Slim Mitsubishi' s did transmit a loud vibration to the interior as the variable fan speed ramped up and down. Very irritating. I solved it by ordering four silicone vibration isolating pads with threaded rods up and down. They were round, shaped like a squishy bell, and totally cured the noise issue.
I have the same issue. In the house it sounds like a truck is driving by the house, even with an entire garage between the condenser and the living space. Can you provide a link for the vibration pads please!!
this man is doing god's work explaining this stuff. fixed a bunch of outlets and electrical wiring thanks to him. it's the small stuff but yea.
Happy to help!
@@EverydayHomeRepairsthanks for sharing. One suggestion and I'm not sure it's right because I'm not an expert but it sounds plausible. The coil should be underneath the unit rather than behind it. I guess having it coiled horizontally makes a difference with some type of lubricant in the line. Having it coiled vertically I guess the fluid can't make it back to the compressor.
@@EverydayHomeRepairslet me know what you find out because I'm fixing to install a bunch of mini splits myself.
@@powerguymark Someone did answer this question above. Good luck with thye install. I'm doing the same as soon as the unit gets here.
I don't even believe in god and know darn well this is not gods work.
I mounted my outside unit on four PVC pylons filled with concrete and bolted the unit into the pylons. They're two feet tall. It's NH so we could get a 2' snow storm and have in the past.
One thing about the extra coiled line, the coils should be in the horizontal direction not vertical, this might have fluid sitting on the bottom of one of the loops.
That way it doesn't slug the freon .
Oil trap possibilities?
The system is designed to provide enough velocity to force any refrigerant or oil back to the compressor without issue regardless of coiled lineset orientation.
Now the lines are pre charged with nitrogen ....
Just gets released into the atmosphere ... Keeps moisture out ...ready to connect.
@@jeromepark7002 Is that for all mini splits or just Mr Cool?
GREAT VIDEO!!! i was quoted $13,000 to install a mini split in my 850-square-foot house in Las Vegas. . i knew IMMEDIATELY he was a rip-off!!!
Well the confusing part is there are systems that are called mini-splits but its a whole house traditional AC unit with ducting, air handler and ect. Those are expensive
$20,000 for my house for a 4 head install
You could report ir give the company a negative review depending , if it's a very large and elaborate project then I understand but 850 sq foot system eekkkk .
I wonder how many seniors and so on there ripping off , that's like the 80 quote someone gave me to change my 30 second job for the air filter on my vehicle
Yep. I paid $6800 for a 5 zone manifold big Carrier (tall two fans) and three floor mount heads which are more expensive than the ugly over door wall hanger default. Installed.
It was a raised wood floor crawl space victorian cottage 1888 build and the guys were there all day with perfect cut custom lines.
I haven't had a single problem with the system...and happy to have gutted out the old underfloor ducts done in the 1970s now savaged by possums and racoons.
The guys even yanked out much of the dead ducts for me and disposed of them. I had to do about half the remaining dead ducts.
I've helped guys do premade simple systems and it isn't hard when you mount the unit next to panel service and the head is on the adjacent wall.
However that would have been very hard on my old house as the lines snaked under the house like plumbing.
Most (not all) HVAC companies are the biggest thieves out there. $13,000 for a mini split, LOL.
It looks great! I put one in our back room (not on the home hvac). It works ok with heating, but really shines in the summer for cooling. I put ours on a concrete pad, but your wall mount came out really clean, especially with that extra line set coil.
Yeah, I like the concrete pads but wanted to give a wall bracket a shot since I hadn't used one in the past. Thanks for the feedback!
I just took delivery of my 2nd Mr Cool, this one is a 24,000 btu unit for my workshop. The shop is a separate (from the main house) building with it's own 200 Amp panel. I have already run the 240 circuit using #8 wire with a 35 Amp breaker in EMT out to a non fused service cutoff and all rain tight compression fittings. The compressor will be on a wall bracket. I will be fabricating a special longer bracket in order to hit 3 studs to lag it in. Tomorrow I'll begin installing it, and welding up the custom wall bracket mount.
The main house upstairs Bonus Room had a new Mr Cool already when we got here in March of 2023. I have to say, this is a really wonderful product. It keeps the Bonus Room upstairs at a steady 75 degrees regardless of the month or weather. It is super quiet and so far has worked flawlessly. Like I say, it came with the house but was newly installed just prior to our buying here, so I didn't install it. I'm looking forward to learning all about it when I install this new unit in the workshop. I like the Bonus Room unit so much I decided to go with another one. 5 Stars for Mr Cool. Further, as a solid dedicated DIY guy, I love the pre-charged system and being able to do it all myself.
Nice, best of luck on the project and I like the custom bracket idea to hit 3 studs for a little additional support 👍
@@highland6439 Gosh, I have no idea how to break it out. I have 4 heat pumps on this place. Sorry. But it seems reasonable.
I have DYI several mini splits. I use a vacuum pump and the correct length lines to make a more professional instalation. Also the outside disconnect does not need to be fused..
you but if your smart you want over current protection on your equipment
@@ibewsparky4 That's at the main panel already.
I assume he didn't use a vacuum pump because his refrigerant lines are sealed, some aren't and just have a bell opening, he *Could* use a dry clean gas/extra refrigerant Just to add pressure to check for leaks on his 4 Refrigerant Line nuts and the Service Valves.(Service Valves Closed)
Great video, Scott!
Please consider a follow-up video in which you add an Intermatic surge protector to the outside heat pump disconnect.
Nearly all heat pump outdoor units are packed with circuit boards that can be thousands to replace with even a slight utility line surge, not to mention nearby lightning strikes.
Adding one of these surge-protection units is about a 20-minute, 60 dollar project-way short money considering the protection you're adding.
Of course, you may already have in-circuit-panel protection for the whole house -another possible video we'd love to see.
yup replaced a circuit board already..... every one needs a surge protector....
One thing I noticed with all these DIY videos of installing minisplits is that no one mentions that they should be cleaned periodically. In order to do so, room should be left under the minisplit for the drain bag when cleaning.
This was a great video.
Yeah but all hvac need some clean periodically
Nice work! I installed my 1st Mr. Cool in 2018, no issues!
Searching and watching videos on this for several hours, this is by far the best most thorough video. Excellet
Thanks so much for the feedback.
In colder climates store excess coil flat on the ground, curl up in behind like shown could allow oil in the system to pool and freeze blocking gas flow doesn't take much.
Please mention or note that this mrcool hole saw is an additional expense and not included with every system. Customers call all the time and ask why they didn’t get their hole saw. James at MrCoolDirect
Id also note that the coils of excess line set should remain in a horizontal orientation so the lubricant oil in the system doesn’t pool in the low spots and starve the compressor of oil because of gravity holding oil in the low spots in a vertical coil.
Great very informative video thank you for putting out this video
Thank you! Getting ready to install a 12k unit in our garage soon. Loved the extra tips on using and sealing the outside box and of course, being careful not to kink the hoses.
Have a 12 k single ordered. This is the best install video I’ve seen yet. Mine is 115v to cool and heat a 14x28 insulated wood shed. I think it’s going to work great. Thanks for the info. 😎👍
What are the advantages of the 220 v over the 110 v ?
I’ve got 2 24k btu units in my 900 sq ft shop. I only run one except in the hottest and coolest parts of the year. Works great.
will I ever do this? Maybe...naw. Did I watch the entire video? YES!
Nice! 😁
I installed one (a 12,000 BTU Blueridge DIY kit) i only needed electrical installed by a pro but did the rest myself!
I watched your video on this installation and the one thing that is really important I didn’t see was checking your refrigeration lines for potential leaks because if one of the connections is leaking to repair it you will have to call in a professional to evacuate and weigh in the proper refrigerant charge. If that happens when he’s there you might as well have the line set shortened and if you saved the line cover kit install the line cover so that it covers all the lines to the service port for a nice clean mostly sealed install. The other issues I would address is by mounting the condenser on the wall outside I would recommend about 24 inches above the ground will avoid lawn maintenance issues in the future. Other than that everything else was on point.
Everything looks great and you did an awesome job of explaining the whole install in simple terms. One thing to note however, is it's been in several NEC code cycles now, but you'll want to let people know that code requires a GFCI protected outdoor receptacle within reach of the disconnect and the outdoor condenser unit. It's required for servicing the unit.
Good point, believe it or not we are still on 2014 🙂
There is no GFCI receptacle for 220v
@@sammax4245 No there isn't. The GFCI mentioned isn't about the 240V disconnect. Code asks for an 120V GFCI receptacle within the area of that 240V disconnect for service technicians to be able to use... whether it's a disconnect for a condenser, pool, hot tub, solar PV, etc. For example, an HVAC tech may need to pull a vacuum on the linesets of the condenser. His equipment needs to plug into a receptacle that is obviously GFCI protected.
Not that I agree with it, but code says all condensers need to be on a gfci circuit. Apparently some kid climbed on to a condenser and grabbed a steel fence and died. In the knee jerk country we live in, they now require gfci’s. Yes gfci protected 120v receptical is required as well.
@@ericanderson9004 Whoa! That's a new one. Horrible!
What sucks is the costs of these GFCI breakers are so crazy that it makes people cheat and try to avoid installing them, at the cost of human safety.
Your voice is relaxing to listen to - I don't even have one of these!
These Mr. Cools are made in China by the company who makes "gree", if you want something that will last alot longer go for the Daikin (Japan). Same installation process, like others have mentioned get yourself a Vacuum, and a flare and copper cutter kit to trim those lines properly. Very helpful video by Everyday Repairs.
Daikin AC is made in China too.What’s wrong with Gree AC?
@@dehutech1072 Sorry honey do your research as of March 2024 Daikin Japan no longer relys on parts from China to build its airconditioners however it was always designed and built in Japan. Nothing wrong with gree but it will certainly not last anywhere near as long.
Daiken is a great company, they make Goodman units
We have Gree Air conditioning unit bought 14 years ago and still working fine
Gree makes 2 million units a year.Hey you got lucky@@slbensurto
I have a Mr Cool 9000 btu Unit, a little over 14 months in use, in August of 2023, unit failed, I couldn't get a response from Mr. Cool. Local HVAC charged over $300 for freon and labor, 8 months later unit failed, finally reached Mr Cool. They didn't care about my having to pay already, plus they demanded $250 to ship like unit one state away. I finally went and picked up the replacement unit. One day (600 miles round trip) and spent $60 in gas to get a replacement "UNDER WARRENTY".
Not a good look mr cool. That's for the heads up.
mr not cool
Outrageous ‼️‼️‼️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️😤😤😤
That's because Mr Cool is garbage. Perfect example of you get what you pay for
NOT the typical experience. People love them for a reason.
There's no refrigerant in the lines, they're just pulled to a vacuum, which you pierce when you connect the lines.
All the refrigerant is in the unit, which is released when you open up the valves.
"Precharged" is just not true, they're "prevacuumed".
You could also just order any decent mini split from Daikin or Mitsubishi, get a $150 vacuum pump and do it properly yourself. You'll save yourself hundreds of dollars.
The hardest part is not kinking the copper lines, but if you get a $50 tube bunder for AC lines, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle.
Thanks for the feedback. The wall vibration would get old fast 😂.
One of the greatest features of a Mr Cool are the leak proof connectors. Cut and flared lines leak, period. These dont and thats gold for diy ers. Takes the skill and experience out of the equation.
@@slipstreamvids7422 Just use Nylog on the connections and they won’t leak.
should 100% get a vacuum pump and trim the lines to minimum spec. any additional line outside will bleed off heat...
They are pre charged with refrigerant. They sell line sets up to 50 feet. An outdoor condenser is usually only pre charged rated for 16 feet of line. MrCool units, using their line set, can run upwards of 80 feet, with a maximum of 232 total feet for their DIY units. There is no possible way they are over charging their condensers to support 232 total line feet, the unit would not cool effectively at all anymore.
This is from the no-vac pre charged line set customer brochure.
100% Accurately Precharged R410A Refrigerant
15 FT
1.94 OZ
25 FT
3.17 OZ
35 FT
9.77 OZ
50 FT
19.44 OZ
Love the content. Keep it up. I would suggest insulating that garage. It will keep the unit from constantly cycling, reduce the electrical bill, and increase the longevity of the mini split unit.
If the unit is cycling wouldn’t that means that the unit is larger than the space? Plus is the unit an Inverter?It as 4core 2.5 mm wire which inverters use…so if the garage is not insulated properly,the opposite would happen(the unit will run continuously)which would also ramp up the unit to maximum speed for both the condenser fan and the variable speed compressor.
@r410a6 Yes, causing your electrical bill to increase. Not to mention the strain on your unit ensuring your local HVAC tec a new boat from all the repairs you're going to need. Bottom line is insulate the enclosed area.
Great job with upgrading to SS fasteners! The only thing I would have done differently is place the disconnect box 1-2ft higher...out of the splash zone.
Good point also raises the hole unit 18" to 24 up to keep the condenser clean.
Nice video.
Another helpful tip is to run the line set, power, and drain down the wall on the inside when able like your setup would have been great. Looks much nicer and more professional stub out at the bottom next to the outside unit.
Grace and Peace
Slick
That would have been cleaner for sure and I considered it for this garage. I decided to go a more "traditional" route to try and align with what would be more common for the viewer. Thanks for the feedback 👊
100%. That's exactly what I did. The lineset/power cables go directly through the wall straight out to the condenser. For those who aren't working with an insulated, finished interior space, why wouldn't you do it that way??
Excellent. Very thorough and easy to follow.
Thx!
Very good and practical installation.A few things could’ve been done before releasing the precharged system such as: vacuuming the line set with a vacuum pump,because moisture is in that line set.but otherwise from that not bad at all.
Bravely saying "about 2000 dollars" really helps ballpark costs. By now I think everyone knows to look at how old or recent a video is, and they know prices change.
Thanks for the video
Have been considering mrCool diy and this video showed me that I think I'll be able to do it... thank you so much... subscribed in order to be able to see what other projects you make look easy...😊
The coil of excess lineset should be horizontal. You can have pooling of refrigerant. I am no pro, but I have installed a few of these and the instructions point this out.
2 grand is a great bargain! For a garage that’s perfect. I’m seriously considering one for my garage. Always great videos!
Very good video and installation. In my area, we have trouble with what we call 'dirt dobbers'. These wasp like insects like to crawl into very small places like the condensate drain. On mine they did in a way that I did not see them till their mud plug closed off the drain and my overflow storage area inside the room began to leak badly. I had no idea it was plugged. I used a clothes hanger wire to unplug the pipe end. I then took a plastic bag and sliced open the bottom of the bag. I then tied the handle portion of the bag around the lower section of the drain so that the water would run out and they could not walk up the bag to the opening. End of problem. I change the bag each spring.
Just put like a soft mesh screen on it
Very good, well done presentation. You explained things better than other presentations I have seen where they left some things a little bit unclear. Your demo is very clear and understandable. Thank you.
Great video as always. Stumbled upon this many months later after installing the eufy security cameras as I am in the market for a couple of these. Intimidating project!
I have an old stone home in portugal and was quoted €3,200 for two 1,200k units complete installed. I asked around the village and was told to use a different guy, he quoted me €1,550 for the same two units installed. He did the job while I was not in the country, he sent pictures each step of the way and decided to relocate the placement of the upstairs unit, he did charge me a total of €1,650 with the extra charge for the extra work and materials to relocate. This summer when I returned I found both units professionally installed with white box conduit run at the ceiling meets wall area, each corner perfectly mitered and all holes sealed. The only signs that he was there were the units, no dust anywhere. He was as professional as any craftsman I have seen. He refused to take a deposit and actually waited until both units were installed and fully functional before billing us and then offered for us to wait to return to portugal to inspect before we paid. He of course was paid immediately and we have recommended him to a few other people.
Another great, useful, well structured, clearly filmed video, Scott. Really well done. Thanks.
You bet, thanks for the feedback and support 🙌
Don't know if one already exists, but a dual-level wall mount with locking features sounds attractive so the coil could lie flat on level one and the unit could be locked onto level two. Easy to visualize.
That would be slick 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Go for it. I'll draw the plans.
Hi, I did a Mr. Cool DIY install a year ago and it went fine. However my inspector called me on two items. (1) The coils of extra cannot touch the ground (don't know why.) (2) You need safety caps on your main unit connection valves, not the regular caps the manufacturer supplies. Safety caps need a special tool to remove. This is North American standard, The reason is, some kids have been killed by removing the standard caps and sniffing the refrigerant. This is one more requirement written in blood, like many code requirements. Mr. Cool should know better but they consistently ignore this code requirement.
Huh, that is actually the first I have heard of safety caps. I appreciate you calling that out.
For small unit like this one has less than 2 pounds of refrigerant doesn't require safety caps.
Another video suggest to have the coil lay flat an not vertical to keep refrigerant oil from pooling.
This is how you do a DIY video. Thank you.
very informative I would like to point out that the line kit is not pre charged the condenser is also would like to point out you should vacuum down the the system (that is what the 3rd cap is for on the condenser). good video
Hopefully the condensation tube drains. That hole on the template is for the insude wall. The hole outside must be lower.
Do you suggest maybe making the hole Diagonal, good for the refrigerant lines not bending so hard too.
Pro tip: Start drilling your 3.5” hole from the inside & when you’re halfway through, go outside and begin drilling about half and inch or an inch lower than the hole inside. Your drains will always have proper fall
Great video only thing i will correct you on is that the line set are not charged the refrigerant is actually in the compressor and is released when you open your valves so if you didn't want to coil you line and cut them to length instead you are able to do so
It probably would have been to your advantage to mount the outside unit 20 inches from the wall incase you need to get there in the future. It would also increase air flow and make the condenser fan work easier. Had you used an EG4 AC unit. You could connect solar panels directly to the unit. I'm running a 24k unit and on a hot day it's drawing 540 watts until the room cools down. At night it runs under 400 watts. The EG4 AC also comes with precharged lines. I would also recommend Nylon blue on every connection. Stay cool.
Nicely done! It does seem like a DIY project laid out like this.
Nice work!
I did one last year or two on my garage. I also did the wall bracket and wish I hadn't. The bracket is designed for use with concrete, which is why it's only 30" wide, and on wood framing will vibrate noise into the garage. Also, my garage was done to ADU standards, insulated and sheet rocked. To get the most out of your unit, insulation and some kind of wall covering will help.
Is that shelf staying there? It will block some of the air flow.
I've had mine going all winter and it hasn't missed a beat. I do get a bit of a hum form the outside unit mounted on the wall.
Mine is a 12k 120 unit.
Good to know, thank you!
Nice installation, you covered all the important details about it. On the other hand, installing this unit in an uninsulated garage makes no sense to me.
Trying to work inside a hot closed garage sucks. Anything to take the edge off. lol, you're not running any motors make sure roof vents are sealed
You have a breaker on the subpanel. The fused disconnect is redundant and more expensive. All you need is the external disconnect. Otherwise, you are one of a few that gets the electrical part spot on, right down to making sure no more 1/2" sheathing remains in an enclosure. Good job.
Excellent job, one suggestion would be to leak check prior to wrapping the unions with the supplied wrap
Totally agree, I actually did just somehow left it out during the editing process of the video 🤦♂️
I installed a two head Mr. Cool in my VT home about 18 months ago. It has been working great. The few days in summer that I need it it cools the home quickly and I did get to test the unit once in winter when it was -16 F outside. It produced heat without issue. My oil use is down tremendously and I am planning a DIY solar setup this some to save even more cash.
Great DIY video but a vacuum nitrogen test is a must its purges the line of impurities and checks for leaks. that over time damage the A/C. This requires test gauge and a vacuum I bought it and was worth it as you probably save $2000 plus by installing this yourself I also found some used equipment as others have done the same and sell the equipment when done leak test is a must i micro leak emptied my neighbors split over 2 months and cost $900 to repair and recharge.
I think installing the provided sleeve regardless of finished or unfinished interior wall would be ideal. Might have to do some extra prep work to support the sleeve properly.
Interesting video, nice clean installation. The only thing I might have done differently would have been to place the unit to the left of the dropped lines rather than to the right. Just my OCD talking here but it would of allowed the lines to be run in a very similar pattern without having to put a kink in them prior to hookup. Very trivial point but one that would need to have been fixed prior to charging the lines. That and your wire run to the box inside would have been shorter saving wire. The only other thing I might think about would to possibly hang the external unit higher on the wall to get it off the ground and away from possible harm that could come from children, pets, or others that may be in your backyard.
Raise the external unit higher is a good point too also keep the condenser out of the dirt line on the Wall it will greatly help keep the cooling fins clean in the unit.
As a 35 yr hvac guy you absolutely do not leave that coiled like that the amount of oil in there is going to shorten that life span of the unit
Excellent video! Will be referencing for my own install. The only thing I would have added is to check the connections for leaks with some soapy water. But I understand these seldom do leak.
@parkinglotpatty2911 flare fittings leak all the time, whoever told you they seldom leak is 1, trying to make money on you later, or 2 doesn't have a clue what they are talking about
@@calebwhitaker2318 calm down, Karen. I said to check them with soapy water.
Nice to see the process. I believe Code requires a service receptacle within 25ft of the exterior equipment. I'd continue the drain pipe down to near the ground and perhaps install a gravel filled dry well.
Yeah I should have called that out as it looks like 2020 NEC brought that in, we are still on 2014 😀
@@EverydayHomeRepairs That requirement is probably also in your State Mechanical building Code.
I've been an electrician for 22 years. They've required a 120v outlets within 25 feet of refrigeration outdoor equipment since at least 2002.
Wouldn't it be better to test out the system first before wrapping the connections and the refrigerant lines? Otherwise you might have to undo a lot of that work if there is a problem.
One thing to note is that the wall-mount bracket that mrcool sells for the 18k model (which is different than what's shown here) only allows the unit to be 4" from the wall (although mrcool recommmends 6"). But what makes this a real problem is trying to (carefully) bend the refrigerant lines enough to get them aligned well enough to screw the couplings together. I had to unbolt the compressor and move it away from the wall, then screw the couplings together, then carefully bent the lines enough to get the unit back into position.
I’ve been a subscriber of yours for well over a year and I really appreciate your videos. You did a really good job with this one. However, I am a little bit concerned about the extra refrigerant lines being in the vertical position. I would prefer to see them horizontal. It will help with oil return to the compressor.
Mr.Cool actually recommends putting them vertical.
@@bertveldhuizen8699 that goes against everything I’ve learned - so I checked. Page 27, bottom right: mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-es-im-um-en-01.pdf
P.27 flat with ground@@bertveldhuizen8699
I installed one of these a couple of years ago and have lost sleep thinking about leaving my lines vertical, but there was really no other choice given all the extra line I had. Even thought about calling in an HVAC company to remove the excess. That said, 2+ years later everything is still working great.
@@bertveldhuizen8699 The Mr. Cool instructions actually say to install the excess in the horizontal position/orientation.
Thanks for this very helpful information! 👍
You bet!
Coiling excess lines vertically creates refrigerant oil return trap reducing oil return to compressor.
Mr Cool installation procedures say to install extra refrigerant lines hieizontally. A real pain but understandable.
Excellent detailed description, and very good video as well. Thanks for taking the time to provide this! Would you please provide some info about your battery/inverter power units? Thanks again!
Nice job man!! Cool stuff! 🎸
Great common sense advice. Any DIY with experience in construction or appliance repair should be able to pull this off. Take your time and don't take any shortcuts. What a great product. So much more economical than working with a plumber or HVAC professional.
Word of warning. Mounting the condenser unit on a bracket, the bracket will transfer sound vibrations to the wall, not a lot. But worth considering.
I mounted mine on a bracket, now wish I hadn’t. May change it.
Great explanation the only thing I could add is you didn’t check for possible leaks
Another very well explained tutorial.
Thanks for the support 👍
Also, may want to checkbfor leaks with soap water on all supply line connections. Thanks
Great video I’m ready to install mine this weekend nice pointers.
Best of luck on the project!
I would appreciate winter and summer updates on this project, to see how it actually performs in IL.
Here in Brazil it’s always custom loop, and condensers always come preloaded with gas for 15 feet of tubing. Actually most manufacturers require installers to use at least 15 feet, no matter how long you need, for dampening and flow reasons.
Oi Luis, Tudo Bem? Thanks for the feedback from Brazil. I have seen that most the new builds down there come with mini-split ready construction but looked like you have to purchase/install your own units in the living spaces or just bedrooms. Is that correct?
Woww thanks so much again america is the best teachers on the world
Great video! unfortunately, I came across this AFTER I had installed my mini-split. I wish I had seen this earlier. For example, I have an appliance dolly like yours, but I didn't think to use it to mount the unit. I muscled it up by myself. My back is still sore. 🤕
In Northern climate zones, with frequent snow accumulation, installing the outdoor unit on a pad or slab will lead to a total failure. In a defrost mode, ice will build up underneath, and eventually lead to blocking air flow, and possibly find the fan blades hitting on the ice. For the same reason, the outside unit should, at a minimum, be two feet above the grade, as ice buildup during the defrost mode can and will easily get two feet tall.
Wished you showed how you wired it in the breaker box but it pretty self explanatory and will remember to use red tape to label in the future
I was led to believe that the lines that you attach are empty and that the refrigerant is entirely in the outdoor unit which is released through the lines when you open the high pressure valve. Which is also why they typically recommend that prior to opening the valve the system is pressure tested and vacuumed. I also did not realize that the indoor unit lines are nitrogen charged so when you take off the caps off you got a loud blast.
Thank you this explanation helped me a lot this is a good teaching 🙏
You bet
This is by far the best diy install, 100% explained !! Thanks !!
Just a quick glance, either the top plate of the wall you mounted the handler to is out of level or the handler itself is (by about a 1/2-3/4 inch across the length of the handler.) Could just be a trick of the camera as well. Otherwise great install! (Sorry, OCD kicked in.)
My main concern has to do with the refrigerant used. It was expensive because it was hard to find. Learning this, I decided to hold off buying one of these units until I know more about the refrigerant. I realize the lines come precharged, but I always prepare for the worst.
I believe this is mis-informing. The line set is not charged with refrigeration, the compressor is. Also before opening the compressor valves you need to use nitrogen to do a pressure test then after about an hour, if it holds pull a vacuum to below 500 microns. Overall neat job with a few corrections.
You’re 100% wrong
Exactly what I've been looking for.
Great 🙌
Great teacher, terrific information well presented!
You'll likely destroy vinyl siding with a holesaw like that unless you know that you put the drill in reverse as you saw through the vinyl.
Very well explained video…thank you!!
Air handler is a bit close to that top shelf. You would get better air dispersion if it was mounted 18” + above the shelving. The movable louvers can disperse the air in a downward direction so heat would be more effective directed toward the floor. (Of course the opposite is true for cooling mode)
Otherwise, looks like a great job!
A bit close is an understatement. Read the instructions there is a minimum dimension required above the floor, which is now a shelf. No reason not to move it 3' to the right
On the lineset, something folks should know is that you should never just tuck the lineset vertically behind the condenser like he's doing.
If you have extra lineset like this, it should be coiled horizontal under it, if it isn't(ideally) cut to length.
Reason being you are going to have the lubricant within the lines pool at the bottom vertical coil otherwise, and eventually the compressor is just going to wear prematurely.
I had this beaten into me multiple times by HVAC techs while researching mini-splits before I had mine installed in my garage.
PLEASE head this warning, especially if you want your warranty to hold up.
In most installation manuals in have read that how they say you should do it, coiling the tubes.
I need to check the instructions again. I know the coil was called out but didn't see them specifically calling out horizontal. Either way, thanks for the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs It's mentioned in the install manual at the bottom of page 27, but they don't really point it out as clearly as they should! The image on page 32 would be an excellent place to speak to that as well, BUT THEY DON'T, so it's no wonder a lot of people miss that detail and make this mistake.
I installed a Mr Cool non DIY dual zone split system 3.5 years ago. Both units running great no problems. I really dont like the coiled up line left over with the diy kit.
AMAZING VIDEO THANK YOU
Thanks for your explication.
Installing mini-splits DYI is one thing but the key to having them last is maintenance. Keeping them clean is another. The outside condenser coil is straight forward although the inside air handler is a bit more involved. Just cleaning the removable permanent filters isn’t enough to prevent issues over time and a professional will have to be called in. The components in the air handler are fragile and not knowing how to disassemble and properly clean could result in damage.
How often do you disassemble and clean?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs once a year
Muy bién explicado..muchas gracias.
Good video but from experience I will add , do NOT use electrical tape on line set drain bundle . Electrical tape tightens or constricts and has kinked drain lines in the past and caused leaks inside . Only use duct tape for bundling
It's interesting that they pre-charge the lines with Freon instead of a vacuum. The older systems have the charge stored in the compressor and you have to pull a vacuum on the lines and air handler then open the valves on the compressor. I actually prefer these because I don't like having all that excess line. Admittedly, I do have a vacuum and gauge set, so it's not a big deal.
Yeah, all the extra is definitely a trade off of these type of DIY systems.
Do you have your EPA 608?
@@QuinnTheVeganwhy do you need that?