@@webberfan1234 well, if you have a dusty environment, you will need to pressure wash the condenser / evaporator fins of both indoor and outdoor unit every one to three years. also, do not use corrosive cleaners, it will destroy the fins.
If anyone can help …literally installing mine now here in our little cabin/trailer in ruidoso nm , my 220 unit came with a white sheathed pre wired what seems to me signal cable already coming out the unit …then it also came with a separate two wire black sheathed signal cable that looks just like the one I this video. My question is the thin 2 wire signal cable is that just an additional one ? Or does the inside unit on mine have the pre wired white sheathed to run 220 into the inside wall unit /blower additionally ? Mine is a frikko Avant 2 ton 220v unit that we buy down here in The Southwest as many people buy these across the border and then resell them here on the u.s side. I mean many of the units you can buy in the states are assembled in china or Mexico so they are the same thing. Again it’s only throwing me off because my inside wall unit came with that pre wired white sheathed cable. I can send pictures if need be. Would appreciate the help. With thanks. Thanks Tony
(Absolutely new to doing any HVAC DIY) After watching this video, and a few others, and reading a ton of comments, I installed two TOSOT 12K mini-splits, and I am extremely impressed with how quiet and effective they are. I intend to install two more to completely replace my A/C and baseboard heat. A few notes on my install. First, buy torque wrenches and be certain of your spec for the line size. Brass nuts are soft and this joint is critical. I almost certainly would have under torqued if I had gone by feel alone. If you have to cut and flare your lines, put money into a good flaring tool. I tried a low end tool ($33) that I bought from a local HVAC shop and I wouldn't consider the flare it made to be useable. I then purchased a BlackMax tool, and it worked extremely well. However, when I got to the 1/4 line, it wouldn't grip the copper. From another forum, I learned that 1/4" copper is probably not 1'4", and YellowJacket recommends wrapping some worn sandpaper around the pipe when flaring. This worked perfectly, and I was able to flare. Regarding vacuuming down the lines: The manual says to simply remove the manifold guage lines from the service port after testing a vacuum, that will draw ambient air in until the valve closes while you remove the gauge lines. I spoke with TOSOT, and they recommed the following: After testing for vacuum. Very carefully open the refrigerant release on the small line, just until the manifold guage reads a positive pressure and then close it. Then remove the manifold guage line from the service port as quickly as you can. You will feel a small amount of refrigerant release as the valve closes. Then release the refrigerant from both lines. Seriously appreciate all the comments from @rbfour5 and others, and well as this video. With the current rebates and tax credits, and installing myself, I'll probably have all four installed for under a grand. For all you "pros" out there who love to rip on those of us who DIY, this is why we do it. We don't have an extra $10K laying around to hire a local company that might not actually do a better job than we can. Sure, I would absolutely LOVE to hire someone else to do the endless projects around my house, but with even the local handymen in the area charging $75/hr, I sure can't afford it, so here I am building cabinets, roofing my garage, and installing split-units, just to name a few. Cheers to everyone else who learns and does.
Amen brother I am with you 100%. My central unit on our house is 16 years old and on it's last legs here in Florida. I just ordered 2 mini splits to install myself. The A/C companies here want $10K to install a new unit and I just can't bring myself to do that. I would feel like I got totally ripped off. Later this fall I plan on installing an 18,000 in the living room / kitchen area and between all 3 units the entire house will be covered. Then we we will have an emergency back-up unit with the old clunky RUUD central air which IS still working. That's a nice tip you gave about charging the lines with a small amount of refrigerant and I will do that for sure. I also ordered rubber flare seals that seal up the flares so there will be no leaks or little gaps in the cheap flares you get with the units. I agree with your comment about how us DIYers can probably do a better job anyway. I was an electrician for 12 years and there isn't much I am scared of taking on. One of the bedrooms in our house stays hot in the summer and cold in the winter. I don't know what happened with the ductwork up in the attic but something was not done right. So even if I replaced the central unit we would still have that issue. I will attempt to not cut the factory flares off but if I need to I will heed your advice. I really don't want to coil up the extra copper behind the unit. Thanks for the comments and happy DIYing.
I installed four Mr Cool mini split units in our vacation home this summer. Installation was easy. I liked the pre charged line sets but not crazy about the extra line coils behind the units. One annoying thing is the local electric utility company only gives substantial rebates on mini splits installed by an utility company approved installer! DIY installations cannot get the rebate. Corporate Welfare!
@@williamterry3177 I got my 3 units installed and running. That was best thing i have done to this house. Our electric bill dropped from $400 month to $145. Those 3 mini splits are cooling the house better than the central air ever did. Glad to hear you got good results from yours too.
I Have Put In Several Of These Mini Splits! If Your Line Is The 10 Foot Or less The Vacuum Is Not Really Needed! Unless You Are Working In The Rain! I Wanted To Do It Right And Pull A Vacuum But My Boss Would Not Allow Me! If You Put Some Petroleum Jelly Between The Nut And The Back Side Of The Flare It Will Ensure All Of The Torque Is Transferred To Tightening The Connection And Not To The Friction Between The Nut And The Flare! These Units I Installed Have Been running For 3 To 4 Years Without Incident ie. freezing Up!
In reading through the comments with constructive criticism, the big picture is that the guy making the video is simply starting a conversation. Then when others chime in and add to the conversation, that's how the rest of us learn. I give credit to everyone involved in this conversation. That certainly helped me thank you!
I am in the HVAC Industry for over 38 years. For what it’s worth this guy did an excellent job. For a “ So called Do it your selfer “ excellent job. My nephew was watching and asked me to look it over he is in Arizona , I’m in New Jersey. EXCELLENT WORK. You made me a subscriber.
As a DIYer I've installed 7 or 8 of these on my house, shop, etc because contractors want ridiculous prices for installation. I have to remind myself how to do it every time and this is by far, the best video on the subject, since, as he says, he covers every, single, step.
@@Jaz_3001holy crap dude. That seems like a go away price. Judge for yourself how hard you think it would be. If you think you have the skills and desire to follow the steps go for it!
@@Jaz_3001they quote about 4500 in AZ per unit, which is still pretty high imo. Sounds like they wanted to sell you on a new central air system, or you wanted multiple rooms done
@@steves1390 4500 seems about right though. Considering you'll get a more well known brand. If you can choose the correct model you can get 30% irs credit up to 2k per year. Also, keep in mind if they need to run power up to it. I got a quote today, wiring as $1400, but I just found a local electrician that can do 2 disconnects for $1100.
As other have mentioned, you should use a 15 amp breaker set on this circuit. The wire gauge is irrelevant when sizing things. You size for the SMALLEST wire used. In addition, I would have use the red and black wires and capped off the white one. You have no neutral line going out, just two live wires. The white wire suggests it is a neutral wire which it is NOT! Yes, this works, but I wouldn't do it that way. If you do use 14-2 wire, I would wrap the white wire with red tape to indicate it is a live wire, not a neutral. Note that the wire to the AC condenser from the cutoff switch has red and black wires, and no white wire.
you can tie the neutral and ground wire at the minisplit and run the neutral and ground to their respective parts of the buss bar at the panel. I tend to step up a size on the wire gauge on this type of thing in case in the future a larger minisplit is needed. Looks like a easy run though so no big deal.
Areas to be aware of: 1.) You should never use the flare nuts that are included on the refrigerant lines. These should be removed by cutting the flare off the ends of the tubing, and use the flare nuts included with the mini split equipment, and make new flares on your tubing. This should be made with a flaring tool designed for mini splits. The angle of the flares on mini splits are different than the traditional refrigeration flares. 2.) All flares MUST be torqued to the manufacturers specifications. You cannot “feel” the correct torque, and “good and snug” is subjective. 3.) It is acceptable to coil excess refrigerant lines to stay within the minimum required lengths. However, any refrigerant system with coiled up lines must be in a horizontal plane. When you coil up lines in the vertical plane you create oil traps. The oil in the compressor circulates with the refrigerant in droplet form. The oil cannot return to the compressor if it collects in the bottom of the vertical trap of these refrigerant lines. I work for a mini split manufacturer, and the above installation problems are what we see in our Top 10 Installation Issues. Overall you did a commendable job with your installation. I would only caution anyone viewing this video to make the three changes I observed above to ensure trouble free operation and performance of a DIY mini split installation.
I love the useful info here! Thank you for sharing this. I'll see if I can reorient my lines to be horizontally coiled rather than vertical. I'm not sure I follow tip 1, since all of the flare nuts included ARE included with the mini split, not from a separate line or kit. As for the the latter portion of tip 1, I think I follow - you're saying that a flaring kit we buy from Harbor Freight, for example, will have a different angle flare than what is optimal for the mini split? Is there a place we can purchase a mini-split specific flaring kit? Thanks again for the useful tips from someone in the know! Much appreciated.
@@LRN2DIY regarding the flare nuts, were there nuts already on the copper linset, or did you put the nuts from the unit into the tubing then make your own flare on the tubing? If so, then you are fine. If the flare nuts are on the copper lines, I would not recommend using them. The manufacturer I work for ships our units with the flare nuts with both the indoor and outdoor units. Most mini split line sets have a flare nut already on the tubing. We instruct our dealers to cut the line set flare nuts off, throw them away and use the heavy cast brass nuts included with our units.
@@rbfour5 Very interesting. Yes, they came with flare nuts on them and that’s what I used. So the ones that the manufacturers provide and include would need to be cut off and replaced? Is it because they may cause leaking down the road?
@@LRN2DIY yes. The flare nuts on the line sets are typically a thin cast brass, and not always a true 45 degree flare like the male flare fittings are on the indoor and outdoor units. If the nuts are then over torqued it will deform the flare on the tubing, and possibly even crack the tubing at the flare joint. For your shop system, I would just keep an eye on the outdoor unit connections, look for oil buildup. So clean the connections so that you have a baseline to gauge if there is an oil film that starts to build up. If it does appear months down the road, you know the flares are leaking. If you can reorient the coiled tubing to a horizontal plane, that would be a priority. You can strap the horizontal coils underneath the unit- that’s typically the way a contractor would do it if he is adhering to a minimum line length. Our 12k unit has a minimum length of 16’. When you aren’t able to locate the indoor and outdoor units far enough away to not have coiled lines, your only option is to coil up horizontally, beneath the unit.
as someone who's installed quite a few of these, this video is incredible. definitely wish this resource were around when i was learning by trial/error. anyone looking for a good guide, you've found it.
as someone who has installed these units. the process of vacuuming is wrong. he should be using a micron gauge. the gauges he uses, just tells you that there is a vacuum, and not what level the vacuum is at in terms of microns "should be 500 micron or less depending on manufactures instruction. also when he was removing his hoses, he broke the vacuum with atmosphere , you should brake the vacuum with refrigerant
I went ahead and did a pad and mounted the outdoor unit on it. My thoughts were less noise from the outdoor unit would get transmitted through the wall, into the inside space. My neighbor mounted it to the wall and did say he could hear the compressor through the wall. We get a lot of water from the indoor unit, but it is humid here. I really wished i'd seen your video before putting in our units. Very well done!
I can't overstate how helpful this video was. I had bought the exact same model before finding this video which I used as a step by step guide. From a DIYer perspective, the manual leaves a lot to be desired. This video clears up a number of details and with a few adjustments to suit my specific circumstances, I followed this video (including addl input from some of the comments) to end up with a great installation. This system, which use in an off grid solar project, consumes half the energy of the roll-around portable room unit we'd been using - and it delivers much more effective cooling much more quietly. I'm really happy with this unit and am already planning for another unit elsewhere in the house. Thanks for your excellent work!
If you're going to oversize the breaker (30A), then you MUST install a fusible disconnect with properly rated fuses (no more than 15A). By supplying that heavy gauge (#10, #8) wire to the unit from a 30A breaker, the small wiring inside the outdoor unit will be the weak link, and a failure in either the indoor or outdoor unit could easily start a fire because there is no way that breaker will trip before internal wiring melts. Just because you are using #10 wire doesn't mean you have to use a 30A breaker -- you could have just as easily used a 15A breaker. Also, the #8 wire of the whip was way too large for the terminal screws.
We installed a Mr Cool DIY 27k unit. The manual said to use #8 wire for the 30amp breaker. We called the company when the wire wouldn’t fit into the panel of the outdoor unit. “Oh yeah, use 12” I’m on the other end of the phone…. Then why does the installation manual say to use 8……
Hello Steve i am doing mini split my myself. I have 20amp breaker and 30amp ac disconnect for 12000 btu. I am almost done but finished the wire part. I didn’t know I have to use 15amp breaker for 12000btu… do I need to change it to 15amp ? If so how about which amp disconnect shall I use ? Please help me 🙏🏼
@@EllieTheTrucker A 12,000 btu mini split will require a 15A circuit, but check the paperwork that came with the outdoor unit as it will list the electrical requirements. If it requires 15A, you can have a larger breaker as long as you have a 15A fused disconnect at the unit. Keep in mind that the breaker must match the wire size. If you have a 20A breaker, then you must have at least #12 wire. 15A breaker can technically use #14 wire, but you want to minimize voltage drop so don't go smaller than #12. If you have a 30A breaker, then you must use #10 wire. If you have a non-fused disconnect, then you will need no more than a 15A breaker. In some cases, you can go up to 20A, but check to see what the manufacturer recommends. Also, you will need at least #12 wire, but if your run is longer than 20-30 feet, you'd be better off increasing the wire size to #10 just for minimum voltage drop.
@@EllieTheTrucker read the label on mini split it will tell you the amperage you need do not go on the information that someone else uses different manufacturers have different amperage. As for the disconnect just get a 60amp non fusible one. The breaker inside will determine the amperage to disconnect.
You confused yourself when you chose to use that heavy guage wire. That wire will be fine but by using an oversize breaker the mini-split is not protected. You still need to use a 2-pole 15A breaker.
Actually all he did with the large breaker is waste money. Circuit breakers/fuses are only to protect the wire. (Stop it from carrying to much amperage causing a fire. They are not for protecting any item plugged into or hard wired on that circuit. What was really bad on his part was calling the white wire the neutral. Since he was using a 220V circuit he in effect made the white wire a hot leg and it should have been marked with black tape on both ends to indicate it was a hot leg. (Or he could have left the white unconnected and used the red wire which is a hot indicator for 220V circuits) There is no neutral in this instance. If you look at the wire connection in the condenser it's actually marked as line not a neutral. I do need to watch again to see the guage of the whip, if it's less than 10 guage the breaker definitely needs to be smaller.
Any line wire 14g or larger is fine. The 15amp breaker is needed because wire sizing within the head and outdoor units. You don't want an overload situation that could cause the internal wiring to overheat and possibly catch fire. The 15amp breaker provides protection against that scenario.
Once you have pulled a vacuum do not just disconnect the line, that will allow air in, release liquid line (small pipe service valve) with an Allen key up to 10psi or more then remove the line, this makes positive rpessure in the pipe preventing air getting in when you take off the blue hose
Always release the suction line first. Not the liquid line. Opening the suction line first allows oil return that is lost from the pressure swoosh to better reach the compressor. It is stated in every installation manual for a reason.
@@SuperVstech on my Senville, it said to release liquid line first. They actually say to release it for a couple of seconds and close again so there is about 10psi in the system. Then disconnect the vacuum pump quickly. Then fully open liquid line, and then fully open the suction line. They also gave me a torque value so high for the liquid line that it destroyed the flare, so either my torque wrench is malfunctioning or the install manual has mistakes
I just did this installation on my workshop. I went with the 24,000 btu MrCool, wall mounted main unit on a bracket. It's actually very straight forward. I spent the bucks (service call $230.00 vs the cost of the pump, gauges, and adaptor at $190) to hire my HVAC guy to come shorten the line set and get rid of the extra line set length coil, pull the vac, nitrogen leak check and fire off while watching all the numbers on his digital gauge set. He had to solder the lines back together as the MrCool has a proprietary coupling design so flaring won't work. It was worth it to me to get rid of the extra line set loops. Certainly wasn't necessary but I feel better about it knowing I had no leaks, and the install looks much cleaner. He does all the service on my 4 heat pump units when needed so he knows my systems. A great guy, local small business family man. All the rest of it I did. Piece of cake.
I just finished installing my 2nd mini-split and it was from a vendor that was remarkably similar to the Tosot unit you installed, including the broken plastic cover that the delivery company broke when it was dropped on that end of the condenser. I had my fingers crossed that it would still work in spite of being dropped. It did, thank goodness. Some cautionary points for your audience. Consider using a Line Cover for the external lines to protect the lines from UV damage, wind vibration, or anyone playing around with the lines. I also recommend that you cut the lines to length and route them to the condenser so that the oil won't pool up in the excess line. It means a flare tool and more work but it could be necessary. The last suggestion is to resize the conduit to a larger size or remove the Romex jacket because if an inspector saw that they may fail you for exceeding the conduit fill ratio. The AHJ might also require a Fused Disconnect. Otherwise, it's a good illustration of the complexity of installing a mini-split.
This is a pretty good introduction & better than most, but it would be outstanding if you edited it, leaving in the mistakes but showing corrections where possible (like red/white wire connections & breaker size) & providing all the correct information and tips from the comments made. It would provide the “why” and really help the DIYer to understand & prevent common mistakes.
As others said, use the 15 amp breaker. Spare out the neutral since you have 2 leads otherwise it is good practice to color tape the neutral for anyone working on it in the future. Depending on your location I probably would avoid using EMT outside and use PVC or rigid. IMC would work, but I don't see it used very much. It is also a good idea to leave the wire a little long and pass the breaker then come back down so you have some service slack.
I'm not sure where you're from, but neutral and ground wires have to be white and green or bare copper. You can't use tape to indicate grounds and neutral wires 6awg and smaller
@@dustinpolitsch6995 I believe he's saying that if you use a white/neutral as a line conductor, you must mark it with red/black to show it's been repurposed.
I really appreciate the time you took to put together this video. I used it as a guide to install my Senville mini split. Your step by step instructions were great as well as your parts list to buy stuff from Amazon. I would have never had known to get that adapter fitting to connect to the low pressure side while vacuuming the line. Thanks again and you really helped me and saved me a boat load of money!
Nov 2024...You just gave me the courage to finish this up...10x20 shop and I have everything but the VAC and maybe 2nd hand to help me. I'm ok with 120-220V. My unit is 9000BTU so it's the right one. Just glad to have found your video! Courage booster and smiles...Thank You 👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿🏆🏆🏆
Do NOT remove the hose before you have released some refrigent to the line set. The will be a lot of air if you try to brake a connection when it is on vaccume.
I don't think he pulled much vacuum with schrader valve still inside and no vacuum gauge. When I do refrig I take valves out and pull vacuum from both hi/low and still take hour with good vac machine.
Not to quote code, but just a heads up, in my area you cannot run Romex inside conduit except for protection and they limit you to 6' ( this is a heat rating item). They recommend thhn inside conduit. Great video btw. I personally would have purchased the covering system that goes over the refrigeration and communication lines, it looks very professional imo.
Great info on the THHN. And yes, I plan on getting the lineset cover - I just need to get that ordered so I can cover everything up. It would definitely look way better.
while we're on the topic of codes, I guess it's not the worst thing to do, but the white wire shouldn't be attached directly to a breaker. White wires are supposed to be dedicated neutral wires, and somebody working on the system in the future may get shock not knowing that it's live.
That white wire is not a neutral as you used it. It is a. hot wire and you should have used the RED wire and caped the white wire. If you leave this you should wrap a couple wraps of red tape near both ends, but as said you should not use romex in conduit.
@@LRN2DIY In this case you would have to use a wire rated MTW or THWN or THHW, or another wire rated for a wet location. Because it is outside it is a wet location.
The rule in a lot of jurisdictions is the use of conduit does not change whether or not a cable is rated for the location. Romex isn't rated for damp or wet, so putting it in a conduit outside is not code legal (and if you've ever taken apart conduit that's been there for a decade, you'll understand why).
I just got to the end of the video. Very nice, btw. What I did was to cover what you have as the taped lines going from the outdoor to the indoor units with PVC drain spout. I cut out a big enough channel on the table saw and then fit it over those lines. It was a nice way to give it a trim look and add a bit of protection from the weather.
This is literally one of the BEST RUclips videos I've ever seen. Wow, I'm impressed, THANK YOU SO MUCH! I'm a pretty handy DIY woman but I almost got discouraged in doing this one, but this video made me more confident in doing this myself.
Overall nice video and very instructive and detailed about the installation. One thing to note, stated "get the non-evacuated line to save you hundreds" and then a few moments later "get a vac pump, about $100... gauges about $80" At this point, the DIYer should just get the pre-evac lines and save the hassle of the extra equipment they may never use again. Now, if you know someone who has these already, make sure to give them a call 😜
Awesome, very detailed description of what is REALLY required to install one of these. I've watched several of these install videos and NOBODY (until now) talked about the details. Thanks!
Watching the video and You are meant to leave the gauges on the service port until the valve on the suction line has been opened, when you open the suction line valve it closes off the vacuum port internally so it keeps the system under vacuum at all times, removing the gauges first will allow the lines to come back up to atmospheric pressure.
Can you explain what you mean? Was there a procedure that was incorrect? How should it be done? I just installed a mini split using the directions in this video and it is working very well
evacuation is done for two reasons to remove moisture (causes acid formation+ minor capacity loss) and other non-condensable gases like nitrogen (causes minor capacity loss). by taking his gauges off before pressurizing the system the air rushes into the vacuum thus negating the whole reason for having pulled the vacuum in the first place. that said as this is a 410a mini-split it's extra susceptible to moisture damage and you should pull a proper vacuum with vacuum rated gauges and micron gauge instead of a compound gauge. if you are worried about damge to your system you can check if the system is acidic with a test kit like "QwikCheck QT2000 Acid Test Kit" or "atk-1 diverstech acid test kit"
Clear explanation. I'm not an electrician but I've heard you need to remove the sheathing on romex when running in conduit os it doesnt overheat (per code). Id also use the 15Amp breaker to protect the device - no law against oversized wire.
You got bad information :) The NM cable (romex) isn't allowed to be used outdoors. IMO it is 100% fine to use it and I guarantee it's not going to overheat. It's a violation because of the rating. It is sometimes easier to pull/push thru the conduit without a sheath but it's still technically the correct type of wire inside. And, you are right on the breaker size
@@efthegop8000 Speaking of bad information; It is illegal to use "NM-B" romex in conduit in a wet location (it's not because of overheating, it's because of the paper insulation they use in romex is not rated for wet locations.) You can strip the outer insulation and the paper and use the proper UL rated fitting to transition from emt to romex. I've been an Electrician for 50 years and I don't use my opinion, I use the NEC Codebook. Doing service work I've seen many DIY projects that weren't legal and yet hadn't burned down the house (and some that failed and melted). BTW the romex you buy at big box stores are NM-B, wire manufacturers do make a NM-C cable that is UL listed for wet locations.
I like the video. A lot of brands have minimal instructions and don’t tell you the plastic cover on the bottom or entire face plate are removable. This allows you to pull you copper in from the out side( which means only pulling 3 ft of line, set hose, and 4 ft of power and communication). Then put your unit on the wall with out the cover and swing the unit up and wedge it with a small screw driver or even a piece of styrofoam from the box. Pull a little extra copper, mark for new flares (factory flares are garbage). Pull the unit off of the wall cut copper and prep your new flares. Put the unit back up wedge it up again. Connect your copper, your drain, power and communication. Once your pressure test checks out then insulate your 2 inches of copper and flare nuts.
This video is great. I was very nervous about installing a mini-split for the first time and after watching this video several times (and rewinding and re-watching key parts), I got much more confident and successfully installed it myself, saved a TON of money, and feel much more confident (should I need to advise others on how to do it in the future)! One note: the vacuum pump I bought came with the gauge set, so that didn't have to be bought separately, but the brass connectors it came with did not fit the port on the outdoor unit. Amazon to the rescue; ordered the adapter, it arrived the next day and got it installed!
I did my own mini-split as well but already had a vacuum pump from doing Auto A/C work. Some auto parts stores (Orielly’s comes to mind) have loaner vacuum pumps and flaring tools. You’ll still need the mentioned adapter to connect the yellow line to the pump but it’ll save you $100ish.
I’m impressed with the video. Not going to re-cover the 10awg vs 30 amp breaker covering a 15 amp system any more than already covered. I will only say this: a white wire used on a 220v system should not be referred as a neutral. A neutral is a specific return on a 120v system. A white wire used on a 220 is a line or hot and should have a phasing tape or marker , on both ends noting such. (Using the extra red wire 0:29 would have been simpler). Nice concise video!
Video and explanations are very well done. Has anyone however mentioned the looped lineset and potential to trap oil? If you are not comfortable shortening and making your own flares and wish to use entire lineset length, always serpentine vs. looping.
you don't match the circuit breaker to the wire.. you can use lower gauge wire than the 14/2 like you did but you need to stick with the 15 amp 2 pole breaker before you burn up your mini split if something went wrong edit: Looked up the tech specs of your unit and on the detailed sheet it says "max current over protection: 15amps" so you definitely need to swap out that breaker
Better yet, install a FUSED disconnect and put the correct 15 amp fuses in it. Breakers are designed to protect wires from overheating and causing fires, fuses are designed to protect equipment.
To some extent. That wire may be too large for a 15A breaker. Breakers and almost all other wiring devices have listed permissible wire sizes. Fused disconnects are your friend.
This is the video I desperately needed. I was starting to get discouraged by all the over-the-top HVAC technician install mumbo jumbo videos. Thank you!
Thank you for the video. There are mistakes with your wiring and (I believe) vacuum loss, but it's also easy to criticise. That said, it's great that you posted an update with required corrections.
I'd suggest changing the double pole 30 amp breaker to the 15 amp double pole breaker required for the unit. Doing so protects the equipment and, conversely the 30 amp breaker may not. 🙂 Great video.
Never remove the gauges while the lines are in a vacuum, you broke the vacuum by removing the gauges first(moisture is now in the system) . gauges should be left on until you let the refrigerant go and pressurize the system, then you can remove the gauges just FYI from a licensed HVAC contractor everything else was good information
@@harrybutter1286 vacuum stays running until you close the gauges/manifold. After it's closed shut off the vacuum and open the valve on the condenser to let the refrigerant pressurize the system. Once it's under positive pressure from the refrigerant you can safely remove the gauges. If you have no experience with refrigerant, PLEASE WEAR SOME GLOVES JUST TO BE SAFE AND TO PREVENT FROST BITE a miniscule amount or refrigerant will come bleed out when gauges are removed, this is natural, not much way around it.
He will be calling you for a service call. That's why most HVAC companies refuse to service these DIY mishaps. I had to turn it off when he oversized breaker. Hopefully no fire happens.
Great video and web site. Thanks a lot! You’ve answered every question I had in a way that makes it simple to understand. I’m an electrician by trade and constantly have customers asking me besides running power to my new split unit, can you install the unit also? Until now my answer was no you need an HVAC mechanic. But now I installed my first one and from the jump you made it simple and easier than ever. Thanks!!
Hey, you did a great video and service to us regular folk just trying to do something to save our wallets from the exorbitant fees that are charged by many hvac outfits today. Thank you for taking the time to make a well presented video and description as to how to install a minisplit. Pay no attention to the armchair electricians and HVAC geniuses who think their way is the only way. I can attest to the fact that these electrical geniuses have been known to leave wrenches behind in multi-million dollar hydro generators on the hydro dams on the Columbia river that cost more than the original maintenance repair should have cost
Just finished installing my mini split. I had a friend in HVAC help me with my line set, but other than that I managed it all by myself and this video and your "regrets" one gave me the confidence to tackle it. Thanks so much!
Awesome job and it saved you thousands of dollars not having to hire an HVAC guy and an electrician! It works and all the little tweaks I can follow once I start mine. Seeing this video showed me how simple it is and how cheap the tools are to complete the job. No need to hire a contractor I will give myself a warranty!! 😎👍🏾 thanks again!!
Outstanding video.... I particularly like the electrical portion, I just wish it hadn't gone so fast. I'll be refinishing a garage and dealing with a lot of that, so aside from adding a mini-split in the garage, I'll need to add an out let, and reconfigure a couple that have grounding issues. Very cool video. Thank you for taking the time to shoot it, I know adding a "How-To" video to a decent sized job like this, just adds to the work, so thank you for taking the time.
Love your videos man. Saved me hundreds of dollars. Electrician $410 HVAC Tech $1600 >>> Doing the installation myself for $450 (includes buying the tools I didn't have like vacuum pump and the supplies like electrical)
This is some rather funky elec. work. I know you were just using some 10/3 you happened to have, and I get that. - For the average DIYer, it's not common to run Romex thru EMT, and 10ga can solid can be a pain to manipulate if you need to go feed thru tight bends. It's also overkill for this install. If you are going to run conduit, it is easier (and cheaper) to buy the length of wire you need and fish it thru the conduit once everything is in place. - Using EMT for outdoor is not recommended (or even code in some places). I see it done often, but the downside is that if it is exposed, it can be easily damaged/bent. Check your local codes, etc. Always make sure your fittings, etc. are rated for outdoor use. - I'm not sure why in this case white is being used as hot and not the blk/red for the 220v. When using a 220V breaker, both connections are hot. If you put a volt meter across the two poles on the breaker you should see 220v and from either pole to the neutral bus, you should see 110v (or 240v, 120v respespectively depending on your mains). In this case, I would have kept things consistent with the rest of the box and used the white and neutral and the blk/red has hot. Less confusion for the next person that comes along if nothing else. - To make life easier (and make sure the wires are properly installed to the breaker, you can wire the breaker with it out of the panel a bit and then snap it in and still not have excess wire (as many people do) in the box. I say that because working in a tight space, it's easy to get the insulator of the wire inside the clamp on the breaker and end up with a loose connection.
Great video! I could not have done this properly without this well-produced instructional video. I went with a Mrcool unit, but the TOSOT is sufficiently similar. The installation manual that came with my unit was, in a word, pathetic! I also discovered, as Nils (the guy that did this video) explains, the other videos I found completely disregarded mentioning/explaining critical information/steps. One such step was the need to evacuate the compressor. The direct link on the his website for a single Amazon purchase for the complete toolset needed to do this was a great blessing and convenience. Thanks, Nils!
When attaching the outdoor unit on the wall, you get the vibrations from it, beeing amplified through the wall, so it will be noisy inside. Keep it seperate, and it's much less noisy.
Good job on the video but there are a few changes that I would recommend. Others have mentioned the changes that should be made relative to your coice of the circuit breaker and wire connections so I won't comment further on that. Here are my four comments. First and foremost, the system evacuation should be done using a micron gauge instead of trusting the analog gauges because the gauges only show vacuum in inches of mercury, with perfect vacuum being some 29.9 inches so most gauges simply put the number 30. Any good professional A/C tech will tell you that a well evacuated system should be pulled down to 500 microns or less, and for reference, 29 inches as shown on an analog gauge represents about 10,000 microns. Whether or not it ever reaches 500 microns or less while evacuating the system while trusting analog gauges depends on several things including, 1) how effective the pump is, 2) fitting leaks if you have any, and 3) how long the vacuum pump is left running on the system, so as you can see, at that point everything is a guess because you simply have no way of knowing exactly where you are. The importance of all this is, any remaining moisture in the system can, and will react with the refrigerant and turn acidic and that in turn will eventually shorten the life of the compressor and/or the entire system. A good micron gauge costs about $160.00 so after all that work and expense, is it really worth it? To do what you showed in your video does not even require a set of gauges, just the correct fitting and a micron gauge. Secondly, you really should use Nylog only on the FACE of all the flare fittings to ensure a good seal, all good A/C techs use it. The third thing I'd like to point out is, as others have mentioned, those factory flares are almost always bad and should be redone using a proper 45 degree eccentric flaring tool to ensure leak free connections, and with Nylog. Having a professional tech come out to recharge your system because you lost all of your refrigerant could cost you several hundred dollars because of the cost of the refrigerant and their labor, all for an extra 20 minutes of flare work. It's not worth the risk Finally at the 23:26 timeline you mentioned 220 amps relative to what you thought was wire that was too small. What you should have said was 220 volts, not amps and as a point of reference, your unit only draws 6.6 amps so the 16 gauge wire they supplied was more than adequate. The number 10 wire you used can carry 30 amps at 220 volts, which as you can see was un-necessary. Sorry for the long comment but hopefully it will save others a lot of grief later on. Thank you posting a good video; it is appreciated.
I enjoyed your video. It was most informative. My mini split unit recommended a 3 1/8 inch opening in the wall and had torque specs for the copper line. I purchased a torque wrench with an adjustable head to meet the torque specs for tightening the copper tubing. It was much tighter than I had planned on going. I followed a friend's advice and left the vacuum on the system overnight. By the next morning I had found a small leak that I fixed by cutting and flaring the copper tubing. Everything else went smoothly just as you predicted. BTW the white wrap that goes around the insulated freon lines is a UV protection that keeps the black rubber insulation from deteriorating over time. It was added to my main house units as an upgrade. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent video and is helping with the Panasonic unit I just bought from home depot. Some people have noted a few things for minor improvement, which is also great as those comments are helpful. BTW, I've read over and over and over never to run romex through any conduit unless it's supremely oversized and has tons of room in it. you could have stripped off the outer orange insulation and been fine in the conduit, as I believe the inner romex wire is THNN (I think...). but I've been a DIY'r for 20 years and have yet to burn down my house lol... just do your due diligence before starting any home improvement project (like I did watching your video)
Start your pump with the valve closed as stated but.... IMPORTANT You should see the needle pull into vacuum when you turn your pump on, watch the needle as you open the gauge valve, if the needle does not raise when the gauge valve is opened you are not properly connected. Check to make sure your adaptor has a core in it and its properly positioned to depressed the schrader in the machine.
Because you went out the left side of the unit I usually hang the unit and prop it up with a block of wood and pull in the line set from the outside and make the connections. The less of the line set you have to pull through the wall the easier. I haven't read the comments but I am sure someone suggested to use nylog to aid in sealing the connections. Just my experience.
I agree! For the unit that I installed on a wall, I put the wiring and short length of tubing out of the wall, then made the connections out there, and insulated everything After checking for refrigerant leaks. In the case of using left outlet, it would be much better to put in a foot of lineset through the wall, and make the connections, then place everything against the wall and on the wall bracket. You would typically tear up a lot of insulation by pushing all that tubing through the wall.
Overall it looks good. I am bit confused about your electrical connections. You kept mentioning neutral and hot. However, the unit was rated at 220V. In the US, you typically refer to these as hots or Line 1 and Line 2. Also, if you hook up a 220V circuit, you always use a 3 wire + ground Romex. Hots use the black and red, and the neutral (white) can stay disconnected. I'm not an electrician, but this is what I have seen.
yea he messed it prtty bad. Should have connected black and red (2 hots) and cap off the neutral which is not needed here. Also breaker needed to be 15A.
@@sumilidero It is rare that a person admits their errors. I am impressed that you have and I am proud of your honest response! You did a great install and corrected any erroneous information. For that reason I give you 5 stars! I am subscribing now.
Not all 220v circuits require a neutral. For ex. electric water heater only needs a two wire + ground. A neutral is needed on a 220v circuit when it has a 110v control circuit element to it. For ex an electric dryer. It has controls that run on one leg (110v) of the 220 and therefore that part of the circuit needs a neutral return path. If the appliance or equipment has no 110v control circuit then a neutral is not needed.
@@jfowler702910 On an electric dryer the timer and the motor that turns the drum are 110 volts. Only the heating element is 220 volts, except in a gas dryer then the entire dryer is 110 volts. I'm not say you are wrong, this is just for clarification.
we have two units in home now but require after a failure of one. very explicit and informative. well filmed, well described and there is no doubt in my mind my dog could do it. thanks, a real confidence booster.
Great video. Thank you for posting it. I just had a pro install a 42,000 BTU Blueridge unit with four air handlers. It took two days and came out great. Note* they also sell nice plastic exterior line covers to give it a more professional finished look.
Awesome! I'm thinking about putting one in my garage and I'm definitely looking into the nicer exterior covers to keep it looking good, and to better protect it too.
Always cut lines. Oil can and will "pool" into the low parts of coils. Won't see much of a problem right away, but eventually it will strain the condenser. Also you must torque the connections to specs, and use Nylog. Doing the soap test doesn't work on the upper, inside connections as you cannot get to them, as well as the soap test won't work unless the unit is on and running to expand and contract the copper and brass fittings. Size of wire isn't too important with these units because they do not pull much amperage. a 20 seer unit pulls less than 6 amps at startup and down to 3 nominally. So a 15 amp breaker isn't needed, but most houses a 15 is the smallest in the box. So running a 14 awg wire from a 15 is plenty, even for a 220 volt unit. All that said, I still enjoyed the video, you did a good job installing.
Eh, you got one thing backwards. You said "even for a 220 volt unit". When you increase the voltage the amps drop on the same power consumption. This means you can use thinner wires when using higher voltage. (The load is in Amps, not volts.)
Good job on the video and the install. I did notice however that you installed a 30A breaker in your panel to feed the mini split. Although the wiring leading up to the mini split can handle 30A, the mini split itself and the wiring inside it cannot. You should replace that 30A breaker for a 15A breaker ASAP for safety reasons and to avoid the potential of voiding the warranty of the unit due to an improper install. Edit: I checked the service manual and this unit draws a maximum of 6.7A, so a 30A breaker is way too large.
Breakers are sized to protect the feed cable. The device manufacturer should supply internal breakers or fuses to protect appliance wiring. Using a smaller breaker on a higher ampacity cable is acceptable. This is usually done when voltage drop is a concern.
@@joefrisco I can't speak for all countries, but I know that some countries such as the UK do require a fuse at the plug for each appliance. However, in the USA and Canada, no such fuse is required and is rarely seen. I have 4 mini splits in my house and none have fuses at their power inputs.
@@joefrisco That syncs up with what a power company tech told me. He had seen his share of bad wiring causing house fires. He always "overbuilds" on his personal projects. Such as 12 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuits. Whereas 14 gauge is sufficient and code. Code is just the minimum.
@@joefrisco the MAX breaker size is always printed on equipment labels. Exceeding that is against code, and unwise. Equipment overload protection is included for normal operation, exceeding the max breaker size comes into play when equipment controls fail, to prevent fires.
@@SuperVstech Manufacturers may state state breaker sizes. However, I could not find in the code where it is required (See NEC 2017 Article 440.4)I do agree it is a convenience and obliviates a need calculate the breaker size in accordance with remaining sections with Article 440. Maybe you can point to the setion in the ode that supports your assertion that "the MAX breaker size is always printed on equipment labels. Exceeding that is against code, and unwise. " I sincerely would like to have the section t pointed out to me where that statement is made so that i can understand further I work in a department where cable sizing takes on a whole new dimension to what is normally seen in residential contracting. So I may be a little off the charts as to the lengths to which I go with respect to protective devices and cable protection. The main point is that the instantaneous circuit breaker is there to protect the cable first and foremost. In this case the molded case circuit breaker provides the instantaneous interrupting function. For more details with respect to Air-condition and refrigeration equipment within the NEC see article 440.
followed this video to a T for installing our Costway minisplit in the garage, and VICTORY! thank you so much for the video and inspiring DIY confidence. (note: also removed my garage door springs with the help of your other video!) You sir are a blessing to the community!
Great instructions. I just installed a United Appliance mini split running on 120. Followed many of your steps. Made the mistake of adjusting the length of the freon lines by cutting them so there would be excess. (There is a minimum length for most units of 9 feet) The manufacture uses aluminum for most the lines and only the tips are copper, so I had to buy some special copper to aluminum brazing rods to make the connection on the cut ends. I thought I could just flare them and make the connection to the the brass fitting of the unit, but found out too late. So copper to aluminum is hard to do because of the melting temperature. Anyway just make sure that your lines are all copper and if not don't cut them to length, and if you do be prepare to learn how to braze copper and aluminum.
Ok, when you got to the vacuum pumping portion of the install… Several major mistakes here. You need to use a diy version. You do not have nearly the tools and supplies to properly install this unit. Proper evacuation of minisplit line sets REQUIRES dry nitrogen purge, triple evacuation to 500microns, This install video will result in a great cooling unit that fails in less than 2 years.
The manufacturer specifies the voltage, maximum breaker size and minimum wire size. The white conductor is normally used as a neutral. It may be used as an ungrounded conductor if no others are available in the cable.
Your outdoor unit has a nameplate that states the maximum overcurrent protection size (MOCP). You can’t just use a larger breaker without violating code. You can remedy this by providing a fused disconnect next to the unit with fuses sized per the nameplate. Also you don’t have a neutral going to the breaker. Those are both line conductors and should be labeled as such. You can permanently mark the white wire to identify it, but using the black and red would have made more sense. Great video and very helpful, but gotta be careful with electrical installs that violate code.
The nameplate usually has MCA (min circuit ampacity) which determines what wire guage you should use, and MOP (max over current protection) which determines the breaker. From everything I have read, MCA determines your wire guage, so if MCA is 15, then 14AWG wire is the smallest wire that can be used. Then if MOP is 20, then you should use a 20 amp breaker. While I know that is not normal, typical, or code for anything else in your breaker box (20 amp breaker with 14 AWG wire), everything I have read said that this is the correct way to do it. I saw videos from several people, including one that teaches classes on NEC code, that says this is the correct way to do it. ruclips.net/video/WugJ8-70Sqs/видео.html
@@shanefrank3281 For UL 1998-listed air-conditioning equipment, the circuit breaker is there primarily for short-circuit protection. The equipment has overload protection built into it. The wire size is selected based on the manufacturer's MCA and tables in the electrical code. Be sure to use the 60 degree C tables for these small circuits. The breaker trip cannot exceed the MOCPD. It really is that easy. It shocks me how many people, including many in the trade, do not understand the electrical code. BTW, I think the poster had a code violation, but can't be sure with the video. Anyone else know what he left out?
In addition to the problem of an oversized breaker I don't know of any code that would allow you to run Romex wire inside your conduit. I realize as you said wire is expensive but these need to be individual wires if you're putting them in a conduit. The reason of course is potential overheating of the wires which are both insulated and inside a conduit.
This is the video I will refer to when installing my Mini split very shortly, I've already saved it. It is so detailed and simple to follow. Thank you sir for educating us!
Thank you for posting. This really made it easy to install. The instructions were general. By you being specific and descriptive Ours is working. We are going through a heat wave 100+ for who knows how long(Bakersfield Califonia). All we had was a small window unit. It was in the 80's inside the house. AC guy wanted to charge $499 for unit and $1200 to install. GOD Bless ya! From the Kilmer Family.
If you don’t torque down the flare connection behind the wall mounted evaporator. It is guaranteed to leak in the future. As well as the connections at the condenser. Tighten down to much will flatten the flare on the soft copper. To lose well you get the idea.
@@JBra1382Sure they are. . . You just have to know what you’re doing, and follow instructions. The manual clearly states the torque values for these lines. Why he chose not to follow instructions is beyond me.
After pumping down the system with a vacuum pump and confirming no leaks you should open the low side service valve for just a few seconds to remove vacuum and pressurize the system with a small amount of refrigerant before removing the manifold gauge set hose. This is because there is always a small amount of leakage when removing the hose and if the system is in a vacuum it will suck in air. If the system is charged with refrigerant instead of sucking in air like in a vacuum, it will expel a small amount of that refrigerant which is okay. You never want air introduced in to the sealed system especially since air may contain moisture which will shorten the life of the system.
Thank you for this. I'm doing a room edition at my mother's where you can't tap into the existing ductwork (mobile home village) so I think a mini split is best option. Not sure if I'm going to tackle this by myself but it's nice to see how it's done.Again,thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I'm currently in the market for a mini-split and was thinking of buying a Mr. Cool since it has the pre-charged lines. Just watched your video and definitely thinking about buying one without the pre-charged lines to save myself money. I'm a DIY type of guy and love to do everything on my own without hiring people. Thank you so much for this video! You're so thorough with explaining everything! 😊I just subscribed and can't wait to watch your other videos!
Excellent video. I’m a maintenance test pilot with Airframe and Power Plant license and industrial wiring certificate. You are a natural teacher. I’d look through your Owner’s Manual and see what size breaker it recommends to protect the unit and use that size. The oversized wire is not an issue, the possibly oversized breaker could be someday. Nice work!
What a thoughtful presentation. You really took the DIYers into the process. Also greatful for folks who chimed in to refine the information. You really did a lot of hard work to prepare how we could understand. With content like this, I beyt you will hit a million subscribers sooner, rather than later.
I would like to see how long this compressor lasts. Personal curiosity. It would be impossible to know if your vacuum pump has boiled all of the moisture out of the system without a micron gauge. If you have moisture in the system it will damage the compressor. Compressor is not designed to compress liquids.
That is not why moisture in the system damages the compressor. The reason is that the moisture, combined with the compressor oil and heat, creates acid which eats the compressor winding. It also clogs filter driers but many mini splits do not have these.
Awesome video, very thorough and simple to follow. I went through the same issue you went through in not finding a detailed video that covers all, especially the vacuum process. Fantastic job! Thanks!!
Just wanted to say thanks. I was hesitant about doing a DIY install of a split unit. But after watching your video, I took the plunge. All done in less than a day. Thanks for all your helpful product links also.
This is a very helpful video - I saw the comments regarding electrical wiring, but kudos to you are putting it all out there for people to critique and discuss. You are very clear in recommending to have a licensed electrician check any wiring, so the issues noted by commenters would have been caught. To be fair, I have seen "pros" in my area do worse. The only thing missing was a description and source for the insulation tape you used to wrap the lines at around 7:30 in the video. My local box stores (Canada) don't seem to have anything like this and searches seem to give the common foil HVAC tape (it does not look like that's what you're using). I'll add that it's almost impossible, in my locale, to source outdoor rated 2+ground cable with black and red sheathing on the two insulated conductors.
Thanks for the kind words. The tape I used came with the unit so I never looked for it separately. To your point, I haven't ever seen tape quite like that elsewhere so I'm sure it's not so common.
I admire anyone who can do their own install. I watched this video and I contemplated it but given the various challenges, the refrigerant part was finally the deal breaker so I hired a HVAC contractor. If your curious about the costs, I had a 15k BTU Mitsubishi unit installed in my country house, about 1.5 hours from a major city (so not urban prices). Its a total racket for the HVAC guys. I got five estimates to install a 12k BTU single zone unit and prices ranged $4,500-$7,800. Labor alone ranged from about $2,500-$4,000 and the internet price for the units they offered to install ranged from $1,000-$3,800. No company would install a customer supplied unit - you had to buy the unit from them, and some companies would only install certain brands, while others would install a few different brands. This did not include the cost of the 240v exterior disconnect my electrician had to install ($500-700 including permit costs). Took one HVAC guy about 3.5 hours start to finish to install, including clean-up and showing me the basic functions. Like anything else, once I got a couple estimates I was able to negotiate the prices down. I ended paying $4,500 for a 15k BTU Mitsubishi Hyper heat unit 22.2 SEER (roughly $2300 internet price), but their first estimate was about $7,000 before they came down. Having both the manufacturer and installer warranties are a peace of mind. The unit is fantastic, worked great when outside temps dropped to the teens and recently with 90 degree+/humidity.
I am just shocked at the high prices HVAC contractors want to do relatively simple work. I could write a long chapter about some of the various ripoffs I have seen. They mostly take advantage of people's desperation when their heat or a/c stops working. People are shocked at the high bill, but then remember they are just happy to have it working again. I do not consider it a very honest business, generally speaking. I met one self-employed HVAC guy who would quickly fix a/c's (mostly easy replacement of capacitors and such), going to about 7 homes in a morning, then be out on the lake by 1:30pm to spend the rest of the day boating. If he charged others what he charged us, he took in nearly $8000 in one morning, all Zelled directly to his bank account. For work that was quite easy to do, nothing miserable like crawling under a house to install ductwork. I was just shocked, for example, that he could conscionably mark up an $8 capacitor to $260, and an $8 contactor also to $260! Plus all the other unbundled big charges, hundreds for a bit of extra coolant, etc. Getting rich in this field takes just a modicum of training, plus a LARGE measure of lack of conscience about ripping people off.
Mini split installation in USA is very very high vs what we pay in Australia. I've had mini splits installed by a licensed refrigeration guy & licensed electrician for around A$1,000 (Say US$700). Some installers will do it for even less than that but I shy away from the real bottom dwellers. And then the units themselves are also more expensive in USA, eg a Mitsubushi 3.5kW (say 12,000BTU) sells in Australia for around A$999 incl. GST or say US$700.
@@KpxUrz5745 Ain't that the truth, I've got a leaking coil on the indoor part part of my mini split. The parts are still under warranty but the labor isn't covered, they want over $2600 to replace the coil. Not sure how long it takes but I'm guessing refrigerant is $300 or so, either it's going to take a couple days or they're charging $500+ an hour for labor. I'm probably going to buy a unit and replace it myself. The power is already in place. Lines could probably be re-used but I'd probably get new just to do it right. I've got everything but a flaring tool already.
Wow, that is expensive. I did a service call for a ice machine on a Indian reservation, and had to drive about 1 hour to get there, then make the repair, and then drive to my next call. So my boss said I had to charge a certain minimum fee. I ended up spending most of the day driving there and back, so I was giving up the same amount of money as I could make on 4 service calls to customers within 30 minutes drive to each other. So the $4,500 fee is very high, but I can also understand that cost. If he had to return to the shop for another 10 feet of copper tubing and go back the next day, that would make the $4,500 a money loss situation for the company. Glad that the installation went smoothly. Perhaps a Mr Cool system with self install tubing would have worked much better in your case. The electrician could have completed everything. The tubing is sealed with a foil covering, and precharged with about 10 PSI of R-410. The indoor unit is also precharged with R-410. So when you put together the fittings, they open the foil covering and there is very little risk of refrigerant loss. The once you check with soap bubbles for leaks, you can open the refrigerant valves, and they have enough refrigerant in the outdoor unit to run the system. I have a friend who was a traffic signal engineer for City of Long Beach California. He retired to a small town about 45 miles east of San Diego, and they had a town hall meeting to discuss installation of their very first red light. He suggested they call the company who would install this $100,000 traffic signal and get a cost estimate for installing new light bulbs, and to make a circuit board repair if the lights went to red flash. The answer was $1,200 for the technician to come out there, and spend up to 2 hours on site. If he had the correct part on his truck, then the cost of that part, or another $1,200 on the return trip. Cost to replace 1 or all of the light bulbs would be $1,218. The city decided to install a brand new traffic circle in the place of their 1 four way stop sign. I am thinking they must of had $80,000 to waste on some project in the city, and suddenly discovered a traffic circle would use up all of that money! Now it is a pain in the backside when a tractor trailer is trying to make it's way around the traffic circle.
It would be a better idea to run the vacuum pump over 60 minutes, to get out any amount of moisture in the lines. Also make sure that you let some of the refrigerant into the lines before trying to remove the line. With a vacuum in the line, there is a negative pressure, and will leak air into the lines if disconnected as shown. By opening the lines all the way, you will lose some refrigerant as you remove the line, however this is better than leaking air into the system. Best would be to open the valve a little bit, let some pressure into the lines (say 15. PSI), then shut the valve, disconnect your line, and then open both valves all the way. Also I never leave the caps off of the valves when running the vacuum pump. It might be possible for air to enter the lines if left off. Ideally, it would be good to use a "Micron Gauge" however in 38 years, I never bought one, as they are about $175. I have used them at work, when they buy the tools. Running the vacuum pump another hour, it will more than make up for the lack of using a proper vacuum micron gauge. R-22 systems are much more tolerant of lack of vacuum, and a little air or a few grains of water in the lines. R-410 will make acid out of any moisture in the lines. This will over time, eat away at the compressor windings. You show self taping screws on your electrical panel. Are they "Blunt Front" screws, that will never dig into a loose wire? Blunt front screws are the only type allowed on a electrical cover to bolt it down. If the unit is running 230 volts, then you should have used the two colored wires, and cap the white wire in the disconnect. If you use a white wire to a two pole circuit breaker, then it should have a wrap of black tape on it, so everyone will realize it is not a grounded neutral wire. If you happen to be running 120 volts, then the white wire Must Not go to the disconnect, but should have a wire nut on the white wire, so it stays connected when you turn off the power at the disconnect.
NEC does not allow black electrical tape to mark a white conductor as an ungrounded current carrying conductor in a cable assy. It must a permanent ink or paint that encircles the entire conductor, and two inches of coverage area is standard in my area. A sharpie ran up and down the conductor does well.
I’m was looking this comment to make sure him did a wrong vacuum. When release the pump line with a negative pressure him loses the vacuum did. Now the best way it’s do the vacuum again and refill the 410A on line, right? How about use a used system with old pipes (probably with dust and humidity due they are opened) only a vacuum works or need some cleaning before vacuum?
When pulling a vacuum it is measured in microns not just -30 on the gauge. For R410A you wanna pull down to 300 microns and not exceed 500. With the right setup you could easily achieve that in 15 mins but I would bet with yours you did not. Also you wanna release the charge before removing the hose.
@@chrisnorris1379 Hack HVAC 12"/300 microns is not enough to even check for a leak, much less remove moisture especially for POE. No such thing as too much vacuum but not enough is trouble. You might catch on in 15-20 years
I agree!! I was watching him install the lineset all the way through the wall, scraping all of it. Then coil up the tubing so it will retain oil in the tubing. The use the black and white wires for the two hot lines, and tape up the red wire? And use a 30 amp circuit breaker sized for the maximum wire rating, not the unit's MOCP rating of 15 amps. Sure a lot of mistakes.
Thanks for the video. I may be installing one soon and this shows well the basics. I saw numerous things I would do differently. The first 10 comments or so cover many of them like the dangerous high amp breaker and running white wire hot without marking it but several other things stood out to me: on the inside unit wiring both of the braided wires weren't twisted and so were splayed out with poor connection to the fastener, and at the refrigerant line connections both were bare for several inches and the insulation was just wrapped over them and not between them. One is warm and one is cold and they should be insulated from each other as best as possible. In fact I'd probably try to add extra insulation all along the runs as possible to increase efficiency. The other note I'll make here is that hanging the outside unit on the wall may be convenient, cheaper, and look better but noise from the compressor will be much higher. I like quiet and a few bags of concrete for a separate base would be my plan. Again, thanks for the video, I appreciate it.
You checked for pressure leaks after you put a vacuum of 30hg in the condenser only. Not a bright move. The vacuum will pull the soapy mixture into the system. Not exposing any possible leaks, and contaminating the system. You should have opened the lines to the inside unit. Because you could have leaks between the two units. Second, pressurized the entire system, then leak checked it. After that pull a vacuum. Even though every thing was capped, the moment you opened them up you introduced moisture into a majority of the system. The vacuum that you apply is what removes it. Last continue with the filling of the system
Big mistake with electrical wiring. Do not run the NMB 10/3 Romex wire outside the building in a conduit to the AC disconnect. NMB is not rated for outside/wet locations even if it is in a conduit. UF cable is rated for this type of installation. He could have run 10/3 NMB from the panel to a junction box just on the other side of the wall and run a conduit containing UF cable or THHN/THWN wire to the AC disconnect. In addition the cables that are entering the bottom of the panel in the shop have no connector or bushing to prevent damage to the cables by the sharp edges of the KO.
Well hopefully you're still around. I just watched this do it yourself video and it was outstanding. You did a great job explaining everything and showing how it all came together right till the end. Again fantastic job.
@@Calango741 did you read my comment? So go ahead and read my comment and then rethink what you said. I did not say he did everything perfectly I said it was well-articulated.
Thanks for the video. I've found it very helpful. I think however that it's illegal to use any type of Romex or "SJ" sheathed wiring inside any type of conduit. I think solid or stranded wire such as THHN is the type to use for any conduit use.
Not sure if you consider UF-B to be sheathed, but it is perfectly fine to use UF-B in conduit outside. Given there is barely any price difference between romex and UF-B, I would rather use UF-B for everything.
One heck of an Install, although I would not attempt it myself. Great Video. I still learned something from you and as well as some of the comments. Thanks everyone.
I did the same a year ago with another brand, including electric work. As you mentioned, it was hard to find info on that part! This video is a great service to DIY. I spent $1400 all in when quotes where $4k from pros. Only thing curious is coiling the excess pipe behind the outside unit vertically. I thought that was a problem for some liquid that could block at the bottom (due to gravity) and reduce efficiency. Maybe it is a myth. Mine are horizontal on a flat rooftop.
You coiled the excess piping correctly in a horizontal plane. Vertical coils create an oil trap at the bottom of the coils. Oil droplets travel in the refrigerant through the system. The compressor obviously relies on proper oil return to lubricate bearing surfaces. Good job.
@@MeltingRubberZ28 Mr. Cool. Works great so far 2 years. Most HVAC techs will not want to service it or repair if needed to avoid liability. Good luck!
Oh My Goodness Thank you!!!! 😊 Watching you calmly and clearly explaining how to do everything step-by-step like this was so awesome. Mostly all the other Videos that I have seen are people just scream at the top of their lungs how you should never be doing something like this on your own and hire professionals only. 😑 But you have truly shown with a bit of know how and the right tools you could do all or most of this myself. 😊😊 Thank you again dear. 💓💓💓
24:35 Wait hold up. You installed a 30amp double pole breaker for your 12,000BTU? Breakers are intended to protect wiring but also the system correct? If your unit needs to pop over 15amp, you need 15amp breakers right? Doesn't matter what kind of wire you have. Or am i wrong here? I'm no electrician but this didnt make sense to me.
1 mistake is using a circuit breaker that is too high a capacity. The breaker needs to protect the pump, so keep it to spec, regardless of the thicker wire.
That's perfect! I hope you love your new shop. I feel like going out to my shop is therapeutic for me, and the mini fridge full of my favorite sodas doesn't hurt :)
Great install but there are 3 things you messed up on. The first one was before you pull a vacuum on the system you need to pressure test the system with nitrogen to 300 psi. This is to test for leaks. Second, after the vacuum, you DO NOT pull the gauges off. You are in a negative pressure meaning as soon you start unscrewing your gauges you just let noncondensable into the system. You should have opened the king valves to release the charge so noncondensable cant enter the system. Third the most significant NO NO you sized the breaker for your line voltage wrong thing to do. You need to size it for the load you running. So for instance per instructions, let's say it needs a 15 amp double pole breaker to do the job you don't double it you can cause a fire if you have an intermitting short circuit. The manufacturer already factored in a safety buffer for the mini-split. Trust me I deal with mini-splits often in my field of work. When it comes to a single appliance on a circuit that's all the load that's going to be on that circuit. It's not like setting up outlets in a home or shop that's totally different you size it for the line, not the load because you don't have a continuous 15 amp 120v load on the circuit. PLEASE change out the circuit breaker!
Actually the nitrogen pressure test per Tosot is 500 psig. And vacuum should always be drawn down to 500 microns (per manufacturer and standard practice) to ensure moisture removal. 30” on a mechanical gage is a very inaccurate measure of vacuum. The refrigerant in that system used an oil with has a high affinity for moisture which was reintroduced when he broke the line before pressurizing the system with refrigerant. Doing the leak check after releasing the refrigerant is kind of a moot point. You got lucky in those line set flares, I’ve never have a good one yet.
@@kettch42 yes, the vacuum test is performed after the pressure test. But it’s not done “again”. After tubing installed and fittings are torqued to appropriate values, the next step is nitrogen pressure test per manufacturers recommended pressure, followed by vacuum test. Once vacuum test is completed satisfactorily, then you slowly introduce the refrigerant stored in condenser to the remaining portion of the system. Doing it this way ensures no air (and moisture) getting back into the system.
@@kettch42 No you pressure test the system first then vacuum out what little moisture that is left in the system. The nitrogen does 2 things one it's an azorbant for moisture that gets in the lines during the install or repair. Second it a cheap way to test for leaks versus loosing your expenses refrigerants.
Just finished installing a Tosot mini split. Works great. Thanks for this video and your follow up video. Referred to them both several times, really helped with the installation.
Next time use black and red for your hot wires. If you're using white for hot you might want to put some black tape so not to confuse people working on it as being neutral.
Just a word of caution! 24:30 Wasting copper by installing a far too thick wire is 1 thing, but you really shouldn't use a 30A breaker for something that requires half that! 30A breaker may trip far too late or not at all in case you have a faulty unit that is not quite dead shorted, just has low resistance for some reason, and thus may cause fire! If you know you're not gonna connect anything else on the line, you should always use the proper rated fuse/breaker! If you do connect something else on the line, then use just enough for all connected devices, although it's the safest to have a breaker for each heavy load individually with proper ratings!
Spot on, the breaker protects the wire from over current. In the uk channels like efix refer to them as over current devices. Not sure about US breakers but in the uk they are rated for they type of load. So anything with a big inrush current needs a different type of breaker from the usual domestic circuits. Air cons can be a problem as we had one at work that was not gassed correctly and kept blowing fuses. These were old style cartridge fuses so the building manager was going nuts until it was sorted. When the motor in the compressor turns on it draws more current to overcome inertia, briefly it will draw more than the amperage that the cables are rated for but it will then drop down quickly. If you have say 16amp cables and a 16 amp breaker it will pop. But a correctly rated breaker will allow brief overcurrent and are rated in type. A type b will have trip between 3-5 times rated current, a type c 5-10 times, a type d 10-20 and type k 8-12 times. These are uk spec so not sure what’s used in the USA, but it will be similar effects. They are quoted in manufactures data. I would hope the manufacturer of the split unit would specify the breaker or at least the inrush current.
Hope your still reading comments. This was a perfect video i finally found to use for my first split unit. Its funny i knew all this information and know how to apply it but the vague instructions had me seriously hesitating doing this for my customer who trusts me 100 percent. Question i have is . When the lines exit the building do they in no way need any other protective housing over them . To avoid sun rot to the tape or anything with force coming into contact with the length hanging down from the top to the pump. Example boys throwing football near the lines. Tree branch breaking off tree and swinging into or against the lines. Its a trivial question but i trust your insight.
Thank you for making such a great DIY video. I have seen where people use PVC to line and seal the hole in the wall so that you prevent insects and water from going into the wall.
i am a regular guy. 75 years old. installed ours in two leasure days. no problems. it has worked perfecty for 3 years now. we love it.
Any maintenance schedule?
You should clean the indoor evaporator filter and get leaves off the outdoor condenser every season.
@@webberfan1234 well, if you have a dusty environment, you will need to pressure wash the condenser / evaporator fins of both indoor and outdoor unit every one to three years. also, do not use corrosive cleaners, it will destroy the fins.
If anyone can help …literally installing mine now here in our little cabin/trailer in ruidoso nm , my 220 unit came with a white sheathed pre wired what seems to me signal cable already coming out the unit …then it also came with a separate two wire black sheathed signal cable that looks just like the one I this video. My question is the thin 2 wire signal cable is that just an additional one ? Or does the inside unit on mine have the pre wired white sheathed to run 220 into the inside wall unit /blower additionally ? Mine is a frikko Avant 2 ton 220v unit that we buy down here in The Southwest as many people buy these across the border and then resell them here on the u.s side. I mean many of the units you can buy in the states are assembled in china or Mexico so they are the same thing. Again it’s only throwing me off because my inside wall unit came with that pre wired white sheathed cable. I can send pictures if need be. Would appreciate the help. With thanks. Thanks Tony
(Absolutely new to doing any HVAC DIY) After watching this video, and a few others, and reading a ton of comments, I installed two TOSOT 12K mini-splits, and I am extremely impressed with how quiet and effective they are. I intend to install two more to completely replace my A/C and baseboard heat. A few notes on my install. First, buy torque wrenches and be certain of your spec for the line size. Brass nuts are soft and this joint is critical. I almost certainly would have under torqued if I had gone by feel alone. If you have to cut and flare your lines, put money into a good flaring tool. I tried a low end tool ($33) that I bought from a local HVAC shop and I wouldn't consider the flare it made to be useable. I then purchased a BlackMax tool, and it worked extremely well. However, when I got to the 1/4 line, it wouldn't grip the copper. From another forum, I learned that 1/4" copper is probably not 1'4", and YellowJacket recommends wrapping some worn sandpaper around the pipe when flaring. This worked perfectly, and I was able to flare. Regarding vacuuming down the lines: The manual says to simply remove the manifold guage lines from the service port after testing a vacuum, that will draw ambient air in until the valve closes while you remove the gauge lines. I spoke with TOSOT, and they recommed the following: After testing for vacuum. Very carefully open the refrigerant release on the small line, just until the manifold guage reads a positive pressure and then close it. Then remove the manifold guage line from the service port as quickly as you can. You will feel a small amount of refrigerant release as the valve closes. Then release the refrigerant from both lines. Seriously appreciate all the comments from @rbfour5 and others, and well as this video. With the current rebates and tax credits, and installing myself, I'll probably have all four installed for under a grand. For all you "pros" out there who love to rip on those of us who DIY, this is why we do it. We don't have an extra $10K laying around to hire a local company that might not actually do a better job than we can. Sure, I would absolutely LOVE to hire someone else to do the endless projects around my house, but with even the local handymen in the area charging $75/hr, I sure can't afford it, so here I am building cabinets, roofing my garage, and installing split-units, just to name a few. Cheers to everyone else who learns and does.
Amen brother I am with you 100%. My central unit on our house is 16 years old and on it's last legs here in Florida. I just ordered 2 mini splits to install myself. The A/C companies here want $10K to install a new unit and I just can't bring myself to do that. I would feel like I got totally ripped off. Later this fall I plan on installing an 18,000 in the living room / kitchen area and between all 3 units the entire house will be covered. Then we we will have an emergency back-up unit with the old clunky RUUD central air which IS still working. That's a nice tip you gave about charging the lines with a small amount of refrigerant and I will do that for sure. I also ordered rubber flare seals that seal up the flares so there will be no leaks or little gaps in the cheap flares you get with the units. I agree with your comment about how us DIYers can probably do a better job anyway. I was an electrician for 12 years and there isn't much I am scared of taking on. One of the bedrooms in our house stays hot in the summer and cold in the winter. I don't know what happened with the ductwork up in the attic but something was not done right. So even if I replaced the central unit we would still have that issue. I will attempt to not cut the factory flares off but if I need to I will heed your advice. I really don't want to coil up the extra copper behind the unit. Thanks for the comments and happy DIYing.
I installed four Mr Cool mini split units in our vacation home this summer. Installation was easy. I liked the pre charged line sets but not crazy about the extra line coils behind the units.
One annoying thing is the local electric utility company only gives substantial rebates on mini splits installed by an utility company approved installer! DIY installations cannot get the rebate. Corporate Welfare!
@@williamterry3177 I got my 3 units installed and running. That was best thing i have done to this house. Our electric bill dropped from $400 month to $145. Those 3 mini splits are cooling the house better than the central air ever did. Glad to hear you got good results from yours too.
I think your only eligible for the tax credit, if units are installed by HVAC technician .
I Have Put In Several Of These Mini Splits! If Your Line Is The 10 Foot Or less The Vacuum Is Not Really Needed! Unless You Are Working In The Rain! I Wanted To Do It Right And Pull A Vacuum But My Boss Would Not Allow Me! If You Put Some Petroleum Jelly Between The Nut And The Back Side Of The Flare It Will Ensure All Of The Torque Is Transferred To Tightening The Connection And Not To The Friction Between The Nut And The Flare! These Units I Installed Have Been running For 3 To 4 Years Without Incident ie. freezing Up!
In reading through the comments with constructive criticism, the big picture is that the guy making the video is simply starting a conversation. Then when others chime in and add to the conversation, that's how the rest of us learn. I give credit to everyone involved in this conversation. That certainly helped me thank you!
Best comment I’ve ever read on social media. This is the attitude we should all have!
That's the polite way to handle it.
@@mikemitchell7505Exactly. It’s amazing how we can all connect, discuss and learn.
Absolutely
There are way better videos. However, no single video is the perfect one. This one just has too many errors.
I am in the HVAC Industry for over 38 years. For what it’s worth this guy did an excellent job. For a “ So called Do it your selfer “ excellent job. My nephew was watching and asked me to look it over he is in Arizona , I’m in New Jersey. EXCELLENT WORK. You made me a subscriber.
You're joking right you must be this guy's brother faking like you're an HVAC guy
As a DIYer I've installed 7 or 8 of these on my house, shop, etc because contractors want ridiculous prices for installation. I have to remind myself how to do it every time and this is by far, the best video on the subject, since, as he says, he covers every, single, step.
Is this a good first project for a DIYer?
My local contractor wants $25,000 for it
@@Jaz_3001holy crap dude. That seems like a go away price. Judge for yourself how hard you think it would be. If you think you have the skills and desire to follow the steps go for it!
@@Jaz_3001they quote about 4500 in AZ per unit, which is still pretty high imo. Sounds like they wanted to sell you on a new central air system, or you wanted multiple rooms done
@@steves1390 4500 seems about right though. Considering you'll get a more well known brand. If you can choose the correct model you can get 30% irs credit up to 2k per year. Also, keep in mind if they need to run power up to it. I got a quote today, wiring as $1400, but I just found a local electrician that can do 2 disconnects for $1100.
Yeah i got quoted the same for 2 bedrooms, just gonna pick a holiday and take my time with it
As other have mentioned, you should use a 15 amp breaker set on this circuit. The wire gauge is irrelevant when sizing things. You size for the SMALLEST wire used. In addition, I would have use the red and black wires and capped off the white one. You have no neutral line going out, just two live wires. The white wire suggests it is a neutral wire which it is NOT! Yes, this works, but I wouldn't do it that way. If you do use 14-2 wire, I would wrap the white wire with red tape to indicate it is a live wire, not a neutral. Note that the wire to the AC condenser from the cutoff switch has red and black wires, and no white wire.
Well said.
100% agree, well said.
Spot on !
Swap out the 30A for 15A ....a breaker is to protect the cable not the equipment.
you can tie the neutral and ground wire at the minisplit and run the neutral and ground to their respective parts of the buss bar at the panel. I tend to step up a size on the wire gauge on this type of thing in case in the future a larger minisplit is needed. Looks like a easy run though so no big deal.
Areas to be aware of:
1.) You should never use the flare nuts that are included on the refrigerant lines. These should be removed by cutting the flare off the ends of the tubing, and use the flare nuts included with the mini split equipment, and make new flares on your tubing. This should be made with a flaring tool designed for mini splits. The angle of the flares on mini splits are different than the traditional refrigeration flares.
2.) All flares MUST be torqued to the manufacturers specifications. You cannot “feel” the correct torque, and “good and snug” is subjective.
3.) It is acceptable to coil excess refrigerant lines to stay within the minimum required lengths. However, any refrigerant system with coiled up lines must be in a horizontal plane. When you coil up lines in the vertical plane you create oil traps. The oil in the compressor circulates with the refrigerant in droplet form. The oil cannot return to the compressor if it collects in the bottom of the vertical trap of these refrigerant lines.
I work for a mini split manufacturer, and the above installation problems are what we see in our Top 10 Installation Issues. Overall you did a commendable job with your installation. I would only caution anyone viewing this video to make the three changes I observed above to ensure trouble free operation and performance of a DIY mini split installation.
Really appreciate these additional tips. I'll be sure to use them when I install my mini split in my new woodshop.
I love the useful info here! Thank you for sharing this. I'll see if I can reorient my lines to be horizontally coiled rather than vertical. I'm not sure I follow tip 1, since all of the flare nuts included ARE included with the mini split, not from a separate line or kit. As for the the latter portion of tip 1, I think I follow - you're saying that a flaring kit we buy from Harbor Freight, for example, will have a different angle flare than what is optimal for the mini split? Is there a place we can purchase a mini-split specific flaring kit?
Thanks again for the useful tips from someone in the know! Much appreciated.
@@LRN2DIY regarding the flare nuts, were there nuts already on the copper linset, or did you put the nuts from the unit into the tubing then make your own flare on the tubing? If so, then you are fine. If the flare nuts are on the copper lines, I would not recommend using them. The manufacturer I work for ships our units with the flare nuts with both the indoor and outdoor units. Most mini split line sets have a flare nut already on the tubing. We instruct our dealers to cut the line set flare nuts off, throw them away and use the heavy cast brass nuts included with our units.
@@rbfour5 Very interesting. Yes, they came with flare nuts on them and that’s what I used. So the ones that the manufacturers provide and include would need to be cut off and replaced? Is it because they may cause leaking down the road?
@@LRN2DIY yes. The flare nuts on the line sets are typically a thin cast brass, and not always a true 45 degree flare like the male flare fittings are on the indoor and outdoor units. If the nuts are then over torqued it will deform the flare on the tubing, and possibly even crack the tubing at the flare joint. For your shop system, I would just keep an eye on the outdoor unit connections, look for oil buildup. So clean the connections so that you have a baseline to gauge if there is an oil film that starts to build up. If it does appear months down the road, you know the flares are leaking.
If you can reorient the coiled tubing to a horizontal plane, that would be a priority. You can strap the horizontal coils underneath the unit- that’s typically the way a contractor would do it if he is adhering to a minimum line length. Our 12k unit has a minimum length of 16’. When you aren’t able to locate the indoor and outdoor units far enough away to not have coiled lines, your only option is to coil up horizontally, beneath the unit.
as someone who's installed quite a few of these, this video is incredible. definitely wish this resource were around when i was learning by trial/error. anyone looking for a good guide, you've found it.
as someone who has installed these units. the process of vacuuming is wrong. he should be using a micron gauge. the gauges he uses, just tells you that there is a vacuum, and not what level the vacuum is at in terms of microns "should be 500 micron or less depending on manufactures instruction. also when he was removing his hoses, he broke the vacuum with atmosphere , you should brake the vacuum with refrigerant
@@Ryan-no5nvhave you come across a video that shows how to properly vacuum the lines? I’m about to hit that part of the project
I went ahead and did a pad and mounted the outdoor unit on it. My thoughts were less noise from the outdoor unit would get transmitted through the wall, into the inside space. My neighbor mounted it to the wall and did say he could hear the compressor through the wall. We get a lot of water from the indoor unit, but it is humid here. I really wished i'd seen your video before putting in our units. Very well done!
I can't overstate how helpful this video was. I had bought the exact same model before finding this video which I used as a step by step guide. From a DIYer perspective, the manual leaves a lot to be desired. This video clears up a number of details and with a few adjustments to suit my specific circumstances, I followed this video (including addl input from some of the comments) to end up with a great installation.
This system, which use in an off grid solar project, consumes half the energy of the roll-around portable room unit we'd been using - and it delivers much more effective cooling much more quietly. I'm really happy with this unit and am already planning for another unit elsewhere in the house.
Thanks for your excellent work!
If you're going to oversize the breaker (30A), then you MUST install a fusible disconnect with properly rated fuses (no more than 15A). By supplying that heavy gauge (#10, #8) wire to the unit from a 30A breaker, the small wiring inside the outdoor unit will be the weak link, and a failure in either the indoor or outdoor unit could easily start a fire because there is no way that breaker will trip before internal wiring melts. Just because you are using #10 wire doesn't mean you have to use a 30A breaker -- you could have just as easily used a 15A breaker. Also, the #8 wire of the whip was way too large for the terminal screws.
We installed a Mr Cool DIY 27k unit. The manual said to use #8 wire for the 30amp breaker. We called the company when the wire wouldn’t fit into the panel of the outdoor unit.
“Oh yeah, use 12”
I’m on the other end of the phone…. Then why does the installation manual say to use 8……
Hello Steve i am doing mini split my myself.
I have 20amp breaker and 30amp ac disconnect for 12000 btu.
I am almost done but finished the wire part. I didn’t know I have to use 15amp breaker for 12000btu… do I need to change it to 15amp ? If so how about which amp disconnect shall I use ?
Please help me 🙏🏼
@@EllieTheTrucker A 12,000 btu mini split will require a 15A circuit, but check the paperwork that came with the outdoor unit as it will list the electrical requirements. If it requires 15A, you can have a larger breaker as long as you have a 15A fused disconnect at the unit. Keep in mind that the breaker must match the wire size. If you have a 20A breaker, then you must have at least #12 wire. 15A breaker can technically use #14 wire, but you want to minimize voltage drop so don't go smaller than #12. If you have a 30A breaker, then you must use #10 wire. If you have a non-fused disconnect, then you will need no more than a 15A breaker. In some cases, you can go up to 20A, but check to see what the manufacturer recommends. Also, you will need at least #12 wire, but if your run is longer than 20-30 feet, you'd be better off increasing the wire size to #10 just for minimum voltage drop.
True 👍
Good advice
@@EllieTheTrucker read the label on mini split it will tell you the amperage you need do not go on the information that someone else uses different manufacturers have different amperage. As for the disconnect just get a 60amp non fusible one. The breaker inside will determine the amperage to disconnect.
You confused yourself when you chose to use that heavy guage wire. That wire will be fine but by using an oversize breaker the mini-split is not protected. You still need to use a 2-pole 15A breaker.
Agree with Phil. The 15A breaker is for a 12k (1-ton) unit in your chart. You need to change out your 30A breaker for a 15A.
I thought the same thing. There is so many things he did that wouldn't pass code on the electrical.
Actually all he did with the large breaker is waste money. Circuit breakers/fuses are only to protect the wire. (Stop it from carrying to much amperage causing a fire. They are not for protecting any item plugged into or hard wired on that circuit. What was really bad on his part was calling the white wire the neutral. Since he was using a 220V circuit he in effect made the white wire a hot leg and it should have been marked with black tape on both ends to indicate it was a hot leg. (Or he could have left the white unconnected and used the red wire which is a hot indicator for 220V circuits) There is no neutral in this instance. If you look at the wire connection in the condenser it's actually marked as line not a neutral. I do need to watch again to see the guage of the whip, if it's less than 10 guage the breaker definitely needs to be smaller.
Any line wire 14g or larger is fine. The 15amp breaker is needed because wire sizing within the head and outdoor units. You don't want an overload situation that could cause the internal wiring to overheat and possibly catch fire. The 15amp breaker provides protection against that scenario.
Could he have used the 30 amp breaker with the 10-2 and put a fusible disconnect with 15 amp fuses to protect the equipment?
Once you have pulled a vacuum do not just disconnect the line, that will allow air in, release liquid line (small pipe service valve) with an Allen key up to 10psi or more then remove the line, this makes positive rpessure in the pipe preventing air getting in when you take off the blue hose
Always release the suction line first. Not the liquid line. Opening the suction line first allows oil return that is lost from the pressure swoosh to better reach the compressor. It is stated in every installation manual for a reason.
As an air con engineer this made me shout at the tv. I thought what are you doing 😩
@@rollsie the more people following these install videos, the more people will have DRASTICALLY reduced system lifespans…
@@SuperVstech on my Senville, it said to release liquid line first. They actually say to release it for a couple of seconds and close again so there is about 10psi in the system. Then disconnect the vacuum pump quickly. Then fully open liquid line, and then fully open the suction line.
They also gave me a torque value so high for the liquid line that it destroyed the flare, so either my torque wrench is malfunctioning or the install manual has mistakes
@@william18miller wild…
I just did this installation on my workshop. I went with the 24,000 btu MrCool, wall mounted main unit on a bracket. It's actually very straight forward. I spent the bucks (service call $230.00 vs the cost of the pump, gauges, and adaptor at $190) to hire my HVAC guy to come shorten the line set and get rid of the extra line set length coil, pull the vac, nitrogen leak check and fire off while watching all the numbers on his digital gauge set. He had to solder the lines back together as the MrCool has a proprietary coupling design so flaring won't work. It was worth it to me to get rid of the extra line set loops. Certainly wasn't necessary but I feel better about it knowing I had no leaks, and the install looks much cleaner. He does all the service on my 4 heat pump units when needed so he knows my systems. A great guy, local small business family man. All the rest of it I did. Piece of cake.
I just finished installing my 2nd mini-split and it was from a vendor that was remarkably similar to the Tosot unit you installed, including the broken plastic cover that the delivery company broke when it was dropped on that end of the condenser. I had my fingers crossed that it would still work in spite of being dropped. It did, thank goodness. Some cautionary points for your audience. Consider using a Line Cover for the external lines to protect the lines from UV damage, wind vibration, or anyone playing around with the lines. I also recommend that you cut the lines to length and route them to the condenser so that the oil won't pool up in the excess line. It means a flare tool and more work but it could be necessary. The last suggestion is to resize the conduit to a larger size or remove the Romex jacket because if an inspector saw that they may fail you for exceeding the conduit fill ratio. The AHJ might also require a Fused Disconnect. Otherwise, it's a good illustration of the complexity of installing a mini-split.
I doubt this dude used an inspector, but I got you!!
This is a pretty good introduction & better than most, but it would be outstanding if you edited it, leaving in the mistakes but showing corrections where possible (like red/white wire connections & breaker size) & providing all the correct information and tips from the comments made. It would provide the “why” and really help the DIYer to understand & prevent common mistakes.
That’s a really positive suggestion.
OOhhhh... Yeah. More whys & mistakes. Very few youtubers do this.
Always read the comments!
A little tip, use a long pilot bit the same size as the hole saw bit FIRST, so your holes perfectly align.
Also, I prefer to drill a 2-7b8” hole, and line the hole with a 2.5” pvc pipe.
A metal wire coat hanger works too.
The holes don't need to be perfectly aligned. There is no way to see them both at the same time anyway.
yup
As others said, use the 15 amp breaker. Spare out the neutral since you have 2 leads otherwise it is good practice to color tape the neutral for anyone working on it in the future. Depending on your location I probably would avoid using EMT outside and use PVC or rigid. IMC would work, but I don't see it used very much. It is also a good idea to leave the wire a little long and pass the breaker then come back down so you have some service slack.
if others have said, why are you repeating it here?
Is this a job that can be done by a beginner?
I'm not sure where you're from, but neutral and ground wires have to be white and green or bare copper. You can't use tape to indicate grounds and neutral wires 6awg and smaller
@@Jaz_3001 My Grandson Could Do It Easily! He Is 12 Years Old!
@@dustinpolitsch6995 I believe he's saying that if you use a white/neutral as a line conductor, you must mark it with red/black to show it's been repurposed.
I really appreciate the time you took to put together this video. I used it as a guide to install my Senville mini split. Your step by step instructions were great as well as your parts list to buy stuff from Amazon. I would have never had known to get that adapter fitting to connect to the low pressure side while vacuuming the line. Thanks again and you really helped me and saved me a boat load of money!
Agreed… this video is greatly appreciated!
Hi, how mo
how long to get through the complet installation?
Hope you didn't follow his advice on choosing a breaker!
Nov 2024...You just gave me the courage to finish this up...10x20 shop and I have everything but the VAC and maybe 2nd hand to help me. I'm ok with 120-220V. My unit is 9000BTU so it's the right one. Just glad to have found your video! Courage booster and smiles...Thank You 👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿🏆🏆🏆
Do NOT remove the hose before you have released some refrigent to the line set. The will be a lot of air if you try to brake a connection when it is on vaccume.
I was looking for this post. Please thump up for Veijo.
blah blah blah blah
Yes, removing sucion line before puting gas may void the fine vacum you just did
I don't think he pulled much vacuum with schrader valve still inside and no vacuum gauge. When I do refrig I take valves out and pull vacuum from both hi/low and still take hour with good vac machine.
Good I wasn't only one noticing :)
Not to quote code, but just a heads up, in my area you cannot run Romex inside conduit except for protection and they limit you to 6' ( this is a heat rating item). They recommend thhn inside conduit. Great video btw. I personally would have purchased the covering system that goes over the refrigeration and communication lines, it looks very professional imo.
Great info on the THHN. And yes, I plan on getting the lineset cover - I just need to get that ordered so I can cover everything up. It would definitely look way better.
while we're on the topic of codes, I guess it's not the worst thing to do, but the white wire shouldn't be attached directly to a breaker. White wires are supposed to be dedicated neutral wires, and somebody working on the system in the future may get shock not knowing that it's live.
That white wire is not a neutral as you used it. It is a. hot wire and you should have used the RED wire and caped the white wire. If you leave this you should wrap a couple wraps of red tape near both ends, but as said you should not use romex in conduit.
@@LRN2DIY In this case you would have to use a wire rated MTW or THWN or THHW, or another wire rated for a wet location. Because it is outside it is a wet location.
The rule in a lot of jurisdictions is the use of conduit does not change whether or not a cable is rated for the location. Romex isn't rated for damp or wet, so putting it in a conduit outside is not code legal (and if you've ever taken apart conduit that's been there for a decade, you'll understand why).
I just got to the end of the video. Very nice, btw. What I did was to cover what you have as the taped lines going from the outdoor to the indoor units with PVC drain spout. I cut out a big enough channel on the table saw and then fit it over those lines. It was a nice way to give it a trim look and add a bit of protection from the weather.
This is literally one of the BEST RUclips videos I've ever seen. Wow, I'm impressed, THANK YOU SO MUCH! I'm a pretty handy DIY woman but I almost got discouraged in doing this one, but this video made me more confident in doing this myself.
Overall nice video and very instructive and detailed about the installation.
One thing to note, stated "get the non-evacuated line to save you hundreds" and then a few moments later "get a vac pump, about $100... gauges about $80" At this point, the DIYer should just get the pre-evac lines and save the hassle of the extra equipment they may never use again.
Now, if you know someone who has these already, make sure to give them a call 😜
Awesome, very detailed description of what is REALLY required to install one of these. I've watched several of these install videos and NOBODY (until now) talked about the details. Thanks!
Just don't follow these instructions if you value your money spent on the purchase of this unit. Mistake after mistake!
No. He missed a few KEY tools you need.
Watching the video and You are meant to leave the gauges on the service port until the valve on the suction line has been opened, when you open the suction line valve it closes off the vacuum port internally so it keeps the system under vacuum at all times, removing the gauges first will allow the lines to come back up to atmospheric pressure.
Finally someone addressed this detail.
Can you explain what you mean? Was there a procedure that was incorrect? How should it be done?
I just installed a mini split using the directions in this video and it is working very well
evacuation is done for two reasons to remove moisture (causes acid formation+ minor capacity loss) and other non-condensable gases like nitrogen (causes minor capacity loss). by taking his gauges off before pressurizing the system the air rushes into the vacuum thus negating the whole reason for having pulled the vacuum in the first place. that said as this is a 410a mini-split it's extra susceptible to moisture damage and you should pull a proper vacuum with vacuum rated gauges and micron gauge instead of a compound gauge. if you are worried about damge to your system you can check if the system is acidic with a test kit like "QwikCheck QT2000 Acid Test Kit" or "atk-1 diverstech acid test kit"
This is probably accurate but a picture or diagram with arrows pointing to the various named components would help clarify these critical steps.
Clear explanation. I'm not an electrician but I've heard you need to remove the sheathing on romex when running in conduit os it doesnt overheat (per code). Id also use the 15Amp breaker to protect the device - no law against oversized wire.
You got bad information :) The NM cable (romex) isn't allowed to be used outdoors. IMO it is 100% fine to use it and I guarantee it's not going to overheat. It's a violation because of the rating. It is sometimes easier to pull/push thru the conduit without a sheath but it's still technically the correct type of wire inside. And, you are right on the breaker size
@@efthegop8000 Speaking of bad information; It is illegal to use "NM-B" romex in conduit in a wet location (it's not because of overheating, it's because of the paper insulation they use in romex is not rated for wet locations.) You can strip the outer insulation and the paper and use the proper UL rated fitting to transition from emt to romex. I've been an Electrician for 50 years and I don't use my opinion, I use the NEC Codebook. Doing service work I've seen many DIY projects that weren't legal and yet hadn't burned down the house (and some that failed and melted). BTW the romex you buy at big box stores are NM-B, wire manufacturers do make a NM-C cable that is UL listed for wet locations.
I like the video. A lot of brands have minimal instructions and don’t tell you the plastic cover on the bottom or entire face plate are removable. This allows you to pull you copper in from the out side( which means only pulling 3 ft of line, set hose, and 4 ft of power and communication). Then put your unit on the wall with out the cover and swing the unit up and wedge it with a small screw driver or even a piece of styrofoam from the box. Pull a little extra copper, mark for new flares (factory flares are garbage). Pull the unit off of the wall cut copper and prep your new flares. Put the unit back up wedge it up again. Connect your copper, your drain, power and communication. Once your pressure test checks out then insulate your 2 inches of copper and flare nuts.
This video is great. I was very nervous about installing a mini-split for the first time and after watching this video several times (and rewinding and re-watching key parts), I got much more confident and successfully installed it myself, saved a TON of money, and feel much more confident (should I need to advise others on how to do it in the future)! One note: the vacuum pump I bought came with the gauge set, so that didn't have to be bought separately, but the brass connectors it came with did not fit the port on the outdoor unit. Amazon to the rescue; ordered the adapter, it arrived the next day and got it installed!
I did my own mini-split as well but already had a vacuum pump from doing Auto A/C work. Some auto parts stores (Orielly’s comes to mind) have loaner vacuum pumps and flaring tools. You’ll still need the mentioned adapter to connect the yellow line to the pump but it’ll save you $100ish.
blah blah blah
I’m impressed with the video. Not going to re-cover the 10awg vs 30 amp breaker covering a 15 amp system any more than already covered. I will only say this: a white wire used on a 220v system should not be referred as a neutral. A neutral is a specific return on a 120v system. A white wire used on a 220 is a line or hot and should have a phasing tape or marker , on both ends noting such. (Using the extra red wire 0:29 would have been simpler). Nice concise video!
@@JM-lw3nxgoofy comment
Video and explanations are very well done. Has anyone however mentioned the looped lineset and potential to trap oil? If you are not comfortable shortening and making your own flares and wish to use entire lineset length, always serpentine vs. looping.
Someone mentioned to coil on the horizontal plane rather than the vertical. Sounded good to me
you don't match the circuit breaker to the wire.. you can use lower gauge wire than the 14/2 like you did but you need to stick with the 15 amp 2 pole breaker before you burn up your mini split if something went wrong
edit: Looked up the tech specs of your unit and on the detailed sheet it says "max current over protection: 15amps" so you definitely need to swap out that breaker
Better yet, install a FUSED disconnect and put the correct 15 amp fuses in it. Breakers are designed to protect wires from overheating and causing fires, fuses are designed to protect equipment.
yes he is wrong about the breaker
Correct! The wire can be over sized, but not the breaker.
To some extent. That wire may be too large for a 15A breaker. Breakers and almost all other wiring devices have listed permissible wire sizes. Fused disconnects are your friend.
Breakers arent to protect the units. theyre to protect the wires
This is the video I desperately needed. I was starting to get discouraged by all the over-the-top HVAC technician install mumbo jumbo videos. Thank you!
Thank you for the video. There are mistakes with your wiring and (I believe) vacuum loss, but it's also easy to criticise. That said, it's great that you posted an update with required corrections.
I'd suggest changing the double pole 30 amp breaker to the 15 amp double pole breaker required for the unit. Doing so protects the equipment and, conversely the 30 amp breaker may not. 🙂 Great video.
Never remove the gauges while the lines are in a vacuum, you broke the vacuum by removing the gauges first(moisture is now in the system) . gauges should be left on until you let the refrigerant go and pressurize the system, then you can remove the gauges
just FYI from a licensed HVAC contractor
everything else was good information
I saw that too, Came to comments just for this mistake!.
so should the vacuum pump still be running when the refrigerant is let go or just leave the gauge connected till then?
@@harrybutter1286 vacuum stays running until you close the gauges/manifold. After it's closed shut off the vacuum and open the valve on the condenser to let the refrigerant pressurize the system. Once it's under positive pressure from the refrigerant you can safely remove the gauges.
If you have no experience with refrigerant, PLEASE WEAR SOME GLOVES JUST TO BE SAFE AND TO PREVENT FROST BITE
a miniscule amount or refrigerant will come bleed out when gauges are removed, this is natural, not much way around it.
@@jesseluna4731 tyvm :D
He will be calling you for a service call. That's why most HVAC companies refuse to service these DIY mishaps. I had to turn it off when he oversized breaker. Hopefully no fire happens.
Great video and web site. Thanks a lot! You’ve answered every question I had in a way that makes it simple to understand. I’m an electrician by trade and constantly have customers asking me besides running power to my new split unit, can you install the unit also? Until now my answer was no you need an HVAC mechanic. But now I installed my first one and from the jump you made it simple and easier than ever. Thanks!!
Hey, you did a great video and service to us regular folk just trying to do something to save our wallets from the exorbitant fees that are charged by many hvac outfits today. Thank you for taking the time to make a well presented video and description as to how to install a minisplit. Pay no attention to the armchair electricians and HVAC geniuses who think their way is the only way. I can attest to the fact that these electrical geniuses have been known to leave wrenches behind in multi-million dollar hydro generators on the hydro dams on the Columbia river that cost more than the original maintenance repair should have cost
Just finished installing my mini split. I had a friend in HVAC help me with my line set, but other than that I managed it all by myself and this video and your "regrets" one gave me the confidence to tackle it. Thanks so much!
Awesome job and it saved you thousands of dollars not having to hire an HVAC guy and an electrician! It works and all the little tweaks I can follow once I start mine. Seeing this video showed me how simple it is and how cheap the tools are to complete the job. No need to hire a contractor I will give myself a warranty!! 😎👍🏾 thanks again!!
Outstanding video.... I particularly like the electrical portion, I just wish it hadn't gone so fast. I'll be refinishing a garage and dealing with a lot of that, so aside from adding a mini-split in the garage, I'll need to add an out let, and reconfigure a couple that have grounding issues. Very cool video. Thank you for taking the time to shoot it, I know adding a "How-To" video to a decent sized job like this, just adds to the work, so thank you for taking the time.
Love your videos man. Saved me hundreds of dollars.
Electrician $410
HVAC Tech $1600
>>>
Doing the installation myself for $450 (includes buying the tools I didn't have like vacuum pump and the supplies like electrical)
This is some rather funky elec. work. I know you were just using some 10/3 you happened to have, and I get that.
- For the average DIYer, it's not common to run Romex thru EMT, and 10ga can solid can be a pain to manipulate if you need to go feed thru tight bends. It's also overkill for this install. If you are going to run conduit, it is easier (and cheaper) to buy the length of wire you need and fish it thru the conduit once everything is in place.
- Using EMT for outdoor is not recommended (or even code in some places). I see it done often, but the downside is that if it is exposed, it can be easily damaged/bent. Check your local codes, etc. Always make sure your fittings, etc. are rated for outdoor use.
- I'm not sure why in this case white is being used as hot and not the blk/red for the 220v. When using a 220V breaker, both connections are hot. If you put a volt meter across the two poles on the breaker you should see 220v and from either pole to the neutral bus, you should see 110v (or 240v, 120v respespectively depending on your mains). In this case, I would have kept things consistent with the rest of the box and used the white and neutral and the blk/red has hot. Less confusion for the next person that comes along if nothing else.
- To make life easier (and make sure the wires are properly installed to the breaker, you can wire the breaker with it out of the panel a bit and then snap it in and still not have excess wire (as many people do) in the box. I say that because working in a tight space, it's easy to get the insulator of the wire inside the clamp on the breaker and end up with a loose connection.
I said essentially the same in my comment. I had not read yours yet, or I would have just agreed with what you wrote.
@Calango741 I'm sure I missed stuff, was just pushing out a quickie.
@@stringlarson1247 yeah, me too. You covered some things that I missed.
@@Calango741 Always good to have a 2nd set of eyes. (or thousands)
@@stringlarson1247 yeah, I didn't realize how many different people had called him out on his mistakes in their comments until after I had made mine.
Great video! I could not have done this properly without this well-produced instructional video. I went with a Mrcool unit, but the TOSOT is sufficiently similar. The installation manual that came with my unit was, in a word, pathetic! I also discovered, as Nils (the guy that did this video) explains, the other videos I found completely disregarded mentioning/explaining critical information/steps. One such step was the need to evacuate the compressor. The direct link on the his website for a single Amazon purchase for the complete toolset needed to do this was a great blessing and convenience. Thanks, Nils!
When attaching the outdoor unit on the wall, you get the vibrations from it, beeing amplified through the wall, so it will be noisy inside.
Keep it seperate, and it's much less noisy.
The unit draws
Documentation states MCA is 9 amps.
@@uhjyuff2095it's still fine.
Good job on the video but there are a few changes that I would recommend. Others have mentioned the changes that should be made relative to your coice of the circuit breaker and wire connections so I won't comment further on that. Here are my four comments. First and foremost, the system evacuation should be done using a micron gauge instead of trusting the analog gauges because the gauges only show vacuum in inches of mercury, with perfect vacuum being some 29.9 inches so most gauges simply put the number 30. Any good professional A/C tech will tell you that a well evacuated system should be pulled down to 500 microns or less, and for reference, 29 inches as shown on an analog gauge represents about 10,000 microns. Whether or not it ever reaches 500 microns or less while evacuating the system while trusting analog gauges depends on several things including, 1) how effective the pump is, 2) fitting leaks if you have any, and 3) how long the vacuum pump is left running on the system, so as you can see, at that point everything is a guess because you simply have no way of knowing exactly where you are. The importance of all this is, any remaining moisture in the system can, and will react with the refrigerant and turn acidic and that in turn will eventually shorten the life of the compressor and/or the entire system. A good micron gauge costs about $160.00 so after all that work and expense, is it really worth it? To do what you showed in your video does not even require a set of gauges, just the correct fitting and a micron gauge. Secondly, you really should use Nylog only on the FACE of all the flare fittings to ensure a good seal, all good A/C techs use it. The third thing I'd like to point out is, as others have mentioned, those factory flares are almost always bad and should be redone using a proper 45 degree eccentric flaring tool to ensure leak free connections, and with Nylog. Having a professional tech come out to recharge your system because you lost all of your refrigerant could cost you several hundred dollars because of the cost of the refrigerant and their labor, all for an extra 20 minutes of flare work. It's not worth the risk Finally at the 23:26 timeline you mentioned 220 amps relative to what you thought was wire that was too small. What you should have said was 220 volts, not amps and as a point of reference, your unit only draws 6.6 amps so the 16 gauge wire they supplied was more than adequate. The number 10 wire you used can carry 30 amps at 220 volts, which as you can see was un-necessary. Sorry for the long comment but hopefully it will save others a lot of grief later on. Thank you posting a good video; it is appreciated.
I enjoyed your video. It was most informative. My mini split unit recommended a 3 1/8 inch opening in the wall and had torque specs for the copper line. I purchased a torque wrench with an adjustable head to meet the torque specs for tightening the copper tubing. It was much tighter than I had planned on going. I followed a friend's advice and left the vacuum on the system overnight. By the next morning I had found a small leak that I fixed by cutting and flaring the copper tubing. Everything else went smoothly just as you predicted. BTW the white wrap that goes around the insulated freon lines is a UV protection that keeps the black rubber insulation from deteriorating over time. It was added to my main house units as an upgrade. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent video and is helping with the Panasonic unit I just bought from home depot. Some people have noted a few things for minor improvement, which is also great as those comments are helpful. BTW, I've read over and over and over never to run romex through any conduit unless it's supremely oversized and has tons of room in it. you could have stripped off the outer orange insulation and been fine in the conduit, as I believe the inner romex wire is THNN (I think...). but I've been a DIY'r for 20 years and have yet to burn down my house lol... just do your due diligence before starting any home improvement project (like I did watching your video)
Start your pump with the valve closed as stated but.... IMPORTANT You should see the needle pull into vacuum when you turn your pump on, watch the needle as you open the gauge valve, if the needle does not raise when the gauge valve is opened you are not properly connected. Check to make sure your adaptor has a core in it and its properly positioned to depressed the schrader in the machine.
Another quick and dirty method is to put your thumb over the flare on the high pressure line. Be sure to shut off the pump before reattaching.
Because you went out the left side of the unit I usually hang the unit and prop it up with a block of wood and pull in the line set from the outside and make the connections. The less of the line set you have to pull through the wall the easier. I haven't read the comments but I am sure someone suggested to use nylog to aid in sealing the connections. Just my experience.
I agree! For the unit that I installed on a wall, I put the wiring and short length of tubing out of the wall, then made the connections out there, and insulated everything After checking for refrigerant leaks. In the case of using left outlet, it would be much better to put in a foot of lineset through the wall, and make the connections, then place everything against the wall and on the wall bracket. You would typically tear up a lot of insulation by pushing all that tubing through the wall.
Overall it looks good. I am bit confused about your electrical connections. You kept mentioning neutral and hot. However, the unit was rated at 220V. In the US, you typically refer to these as hots or Line 1 and Line 2. Also, if you hook up a 220V circuit, you always use a 3 wire + ground Romex. Hots use the black and red, and the neutral (white) can stay disconnected. I'm not an electrician, but this is what I have seen.
yea he messed it prtty bad. Should have connected black and red (2 hots) and cap off the neutral which is not needed here. Also breaker needed to be 15A.
@@sumilidero It is rare that a person admits their errors. I am impressed that you have and I am proud of your honest response! You did a great install and corrected any erroneous information. For that reason I give you 5 stars! I am subscribing now.
Not all 220v circuits require a neutral. For ex. electric water heater only needs a two wire + ground. A neutral is needed on a 220v circuit when it has a 110v control circuit element to it. For ex an electric dryer. It has controls that run on one leg (110v) of the 220 and therefore that part of the circuit needs a neutral return path. If the appliance or equipment has no 110v control circuit then a neutral is not needed.
@@jfowler702910 On an electric dryer the timer and the motor that turns the drum are 110 volts. Only the heating element is 220 volts, except in a gas dryer then the entire dryer is 110 volts. I'm not say you are wrong, this is just for clarification.
Yeah, that red as neutral thing would have me scratching my head if I had to work on this at some point down the road.
Thank you for this video. None of the many others I watched mentioned the adapter from gauge to condenser. You are my hero today!
we have two units in home now but require after a failure of one. very explicit and informative. well filmed, well described and there is no doubt in my mind my dog could do it. thanks, a real confidence booster.
Great video. Thank you for posting it. I just had a pro install a 42,000 BTU Blueridge unit with four air handlers. It took two days and came out great. Note* they also sell nice plastic exterior line covers to give it a more professional finished look.
Awesome! I'm thinking about putting one in my garage and I'm definitely looking into the nicer exterior covers to keep it looking good, and to better protect it too.
2 days🤦🏻♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣 me and my boss did 6 in one day. 6 heads 2 condensers 😎
Always cut lines. Oil can and will "pool" into the low parts of coils. Won't see much of a problem right away, but eventually it will strain the condenser. Also you must torque the connections to specs, and use Nylog. Doing the soap test doesn't work on the upper, inside connections as you cannot get to them, as well as the soap test won't work unless the unit is on and running to expand and contract the copper and brass fittings. Size of wire isn't too important with these units because they do not pull much amperage. a 20 seer unit pulls less than 6 amps at startup and down to 3 nominally. So a 15 amp breaker isn't needed, but most houses a 15 is the smallest in the box. So running a 14 awg wire from a 15 is plenty, even for a 220 volt unit. All that said, I still enjoyed the video, you did a good job installing.
Eh, you got one thing backwards. You said "even for a 220 volt unit". When you increase the voltage the amps drop on the same power consumption. This means you can use thinner wires when using higher voltage. (The load is in Amps, not volts.)
Good job on the video and the install. I did notice however that you installed a 30A breaker in your panel to feed the mini split. Although the wiring leading up to the mini split can handle 30A, the mini split itself and the wiring inside it cannot. You should replace that 30A breaker for a 15A breaker ASAP for safety reasons and to avoid the potential of voiding the warranty of the unit due to an improper install.
Edit: I checked the service manual and this unit draws a maximum of 6.7A, so a 30A breaker is way too large.
Breakers are sized to protect the feed cable. The device manufacturer should supply internal breakers or fuses to protect appliance wiring.
Using a smaller breaker on a higher ampacity cable is acceptable. This is usually done when voltage drop is a concern.
@@joefrisco I can't speak for all countries, but I know that some countries such as the UK do require a fuse at the plug for each appliance. However, in the USA and Canada, no such fuse is required and is rarely seen. I have 4 mini splits in my house and none have fuses at their power inputs.
@@joefrisco That syncs up with what a power company tech told me. He had seen his share of bad wiring causing house fires. He always "overbuilds" on his personal projects. Such as 12 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuits. Whereas 14 gauge is sufficient and code. Code is just the minimum.
@@joefrisco the MAX breaker size is always printed on equipment labels. Exceeding that is against code, and unwise. Equipment overload protection is included for normal operation, exceeding the max breaker size comes into play when equipment controls fail, to prevent fires.
@@SuperVstech Manufacturers may state state breaker sizes. However, I could not find in the code where it is required (See NEC 2017 Article 440.4)I do agree it is a convenience and obliviates a need calculate the breaker size in accordance with remaining sections with Article 440. Maybe you can point to the setion in the ode that supports your assertion that "the MAX breaker size is always printed on equipment labels. Exceeding that is against code, and unwise. " I sincerely would like to have the section t pointed out to me where that statement is made so that i can understand further
I work in a department where cable sizing takes on a whole new dimension to what is normally seen in residential contracting. So I may be a little off the charts as to the lengths to which I go with respect to protective devices and cable protection.
The main point is that the instantaneous circuit breaker is there to protect the cable first and foremost. In this case the molded case circuit breaker provides the instantaneous interrupting function.
For more details with respect to Air-condition and refrigeration equipment within the NEC see article 440.
followed this video to a T for installing our Costway minisplit in the garage, and VICTORY! thank you so much for the video and inspiring DIY confidence. (note: also removed my garage door springs with the help of your other video!) You sir are a blessing to the community!
Great instructions. I just installed a United Appliance mini split running on 120. Followed many of your steps. Made the mistake of adjusting the length of the freon lines by cutting them so there would be excess. (There is a minimum length for most units of 9 feet) The manufacture uses aluminum for most the lines and only the tips are copper, so I had to buy some special copper to aluminum brazing rods to make the connection on the cut ends. I thought I could just flare them and make the connection to the the brass fitting of the unit, but found out too late. So copper to aluminum is hard to do because of the melting temperature. Anyway just make sure that your lines are all copper and if not don't cut them to length, and if you do be prepare to learn how to braze copper and aluminum.
Ok, when you got to the vacuum pumping portion of the install…
Several major mistakes here.
You need to use a diy version. You do not have nearly the tools and supplies to properly install this unit.
Proper evacuation of minisplit line sets REQUIRES dry nitrogen purge, triple evacuation to 500microns,
This install video will result in a great cooling unit that fails in less than 2 years.
The manufacturer specifies the voltage, maximum breaker size and minimum wire size.
The white conductor is normally used as a neutral. It may be used as an ungrounded conductor if no others are available in the cable.
Yes.Exactly.He must and should've wrapped the white wire with black tape to designate it as a power conductor.
Your outdoor unit has a nameplate that states the maximum overcurrent protection size (MOCP). You can’t just use a larger breaker without violating code. You can remedy this by providing a fused disconnect next to the unit with fuses sized per the nameplate. Also you don’t have a neutral going to the breaker. Those are both line conductors and should be labeled as such. You can permanently mark the white wire to identify it, but using the black and red would have made more sense.
Great video and very helpful, but gotta be careful with electrical installs that violate code.
The nameplate usually has MCA (min circuit ampacity) which determines what wire guage you should use, and MOP (max over current protection) which determines the breaker. From everything I have read, MCA determines your wire guage, so if MCA is 15, then 14AWG wire is the smallest wire that can be used. Then if MOP is 20, then you should use a 20 amp breaker. While I know that is not normal, typical, or code for anything else in your breaker box (20 amp breaker with 14 AWG wire), everything I have read said that this is the correct way to do it. I saw videos from several people, including one that teaches classes on NEC code, that says this is the correct way to do it.
ruclips.net/video/WugJ8-70Sqs/видео.html
@@shanefrank3281 I'm not sure if you meant to respond to someone else, but I 100% agree with what you've said.
@@jcbabb2 I think maybe I did. :)
@@shanefrank3281 For UL 1998-listed air-conditioning equipment, the circuit breaker is there primarily for short-circuit protection. The equipment has overload protection built into it. The wire size is selected based on the manufacturer's MCA and tables in the electrical code. Be sure to use the 60 degree C tables for these small circuits. The breaker trip cannot exceed the MOCPD. It really is that easy. It shocks me how many people, including many in the trade, do not understand the electrical code. BTW, I think the poster had a code violation, but can't be sure with the video. Anyone else know what he left out?
In addition to the problem of an oversized breaker I don't know of any code that would allow you to run Romex wire inside your conduit. I realize as you said wire is expensive but these need to be individual wires if you're putting them in a conduit. The reason of course is potential overheating of the wires which are both insulated and inside a conduit.
This is the video I will refer to when installing my Mini split very shortly, I've already saved it. It is so detailed and simple to follow. Thank you sir for educating us!
Thank you for posting. This really made it easy to install. The instructions were general. By you being specific and descriptive Ours is working. We are going through a heat wave 100+ for who knows how long(Bakersfield Califonia). All we had was a small window unit. It was in the 80's inside the house. AC guy wanted to charge $499 for unit and $1200 to install. GOD Bless ya! From the Kilmer Family.
If you don’t torque down the flare connection behind the wall mounted evaporator. It is guaranteed to leak in the future. As well as the connections at the condenser. Tighten down to much will flatten the flare on the soft copper. To lose well you get the idea.
This guy is the reason I have to go back and fix so many of these DIYer projects. Mini splits are not diy projects.
@@JBra1382Sure they are. . . You just have to know what you’re doing, and follow instructions. The manual clearly states the torque values for these lines. Why he chose not to follow instructions is beyond me.
After pumping down the system with a vacuum pump and confirming no leaks you should open the low side service valve for just a few seconds to remove vacuum and pressurize the system with a small amount of refrigerant before removing the manifold gauge set hose. This is because there is always a small amount of leakage when removing the hose and if the system is in a vacuum it will suck in air. If the system is charged with refrigerant instead of sucking in air like in a vacuum, it will expel a small amount of that refrigerant which is okay. You never want air introduced in to the sealed system especially since air may contain moisture which will shorten the life of the system.
Thank you for this. I'm doing a room edition at my mother's where you can't tap into the existing ductwork (mobile home village) so I think a mini split is best option. Not sure if I'm going to tackle this by myself but it's nice to see how it's done.Again,thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I'm currently in the market for a mini-split and was thinking of buying a Mr. Cool since it has the pre-charged lines. Just watched your video and definitely thinking about buying one without the pre-charged lines to save myself money. I'm a DIY type of guy and love to do everything on my own without hiring people. Thank you so much for this video! You're so thorough with explaining everything! 😊I just subscribed and can't wait to watch your other videos!
Excellent video. I’m a maintenance test pilot with Airframe and Power Plant license and industrial wiring certificate. You are a natural teacher. I’d look through your Owner’s Manual and see what size breaker it recommends to protect the unit and use that size. The oversized wire is not an issue, the possibly oversized breaker could be someday. Nice work!
Excellent???This instalation have many mistakes...He dont know this job,just need views for those were dont want pay a real professional..
What a thoughtful presentation. You really took the DIYers into the process. Also greatful for folks who chimed in to refine the information. You really did a lot of hard work to prepare how we could understand. With content like this, I beyt you will hit a million subscribers sooner, rather than later.
please ignore where he said to use a 30 amp breaker, this is unsafe and should not be done
I would like to see how long this compressor lasts. Personal curiosity.
It would be impossible to know if your vacuum pump has boiled all of the moisture out of the system without a micron gauge. If you have moisture in the system it will damage the compressor. Compressor is not designed to compress liquids.
That is not why moisture in the system damages the compressor. The reason is that the moisture, combined with the compressor oil and heat, creates acid which eats the compressor winding. It also clogs filter driers but many mini splits do not have these.
Awesome video, very thorough and simple to follow. I went through the same issue you went through in not finding a detailed video that covers all, especially the vacuum process. Fantastic job! Thanks!!
NO! Read the comments. He did several things wrong!
Just wanted to say thanks. I was hesitant about doing a DIY install of a split unit. But after watching your video, I took the plunge. All done in less than a day. Thanks for all your helpful product links also.
This is a very helpful video - I saw the comments regarding electrical wiring, but kudos to you are putting it all out there for people to critique and discuss. You are very clear in recommending to have a licensed electrician check any wiring, so the issues noted by commenters would have been caught. To be fair, I have seen "pros" in my area do worse.
The only thing missing was a description and source for the insulation tape you used to wrap the lines at around 7:30 in the video. My local box stores (Canada) don't seem to have anything like this and searches seem to give the common foil HVAC tape (it does not look like that's what you're using).
I'll add that it's almost impossible, in my locale, to source outdoor rated 2+ground cable with black and red sheathing on the two insulated conductors.
Thanks for the kind words. The tape I used came with the unit so I never looked for it separately. To your point, I haven't ever seen tape quite like that elsewhere so I'm sure it's not so common.
I admire anyone who can do their own install. I watched this video and I contemplated it but given the various challenges, the refrigerant part was finally the deal breaker so I hired a HVAC contractor. If your curious about the costs, I had a 15k BTU Mitsubishi unit installed in my country house, about 1.5 hours from a major city (so not urban prices). Its a total racket for the HVAC guys. I got five estimates to install a 12k BTU single zone unit and prices ranged $4,500-$7,800. Labor alone ranged from about $2,500-$4,000 and the internet price for the units they offered to install ranged from $1,000-$3,800. No company would install a customer supplied unit - you had to buy the unit from them, and some companies would only install certain brands, while others would install a few different brands. This did not include the cost of the 240v exterior disconnect my electrician had to install ($500-700 including permit costs). Took one HVAC guy about 3.5 hours start to finish to install, including clean-up and showing me the basic functions. Like anything else, once I got a couple estimates I was able to negotiate the prices down. I ended paying $4,500 for a 15k BTU Mitsubishi Hyper heat unit 22.2 SEER (roughly $2300 internet price), but their first estimate was about $7,000 before they came down. Having both the manufacturer and installer warranties are a peace of mind. The unit is fantastic, worked great when outside temps dropped to the teens and recently with 90 degree+/humidity.
I am just shocked at the high prices HVAC contractors want to do relatively simple work. I could write a long chapter about some of the various ripoffs I have seen. They mostly take advantage of people's desperation when their heat or a/c stops working. People are shocked at the high bill, but then remember they are just happy to have it working again. I do not consider it a very honest business, generally speaking. I met one self-employed HVAC guy who would quickly fix a/c's (mostly easy replacement of capacitors and such), going to about 7 homes in a morning, then be out on the lake by 1:30pm to spend the rest of the day boating. If he charged others what he charged us, he took in nearly $8000 in one morning, all Zelled directly to his bank account. For work that was quite easy to do, nothing miserable like crawling under a house to install ductwork. I was just shocked, for example, that he could conscionably mark up an $8 capacitor to $260, and an $8 contactor also to $260! Plus all the other unbundled big charges, hundreds for a bit of extra coolant, etc. Getting rich in this field takes just a modicum of training, plus a LARGE measure of lack of conscience about ripping people off.
Mini split installation in USA is very very high vs what we pay in Australia. I've had mini splits installed by a licensed refrigeration guy & licensed electrician for around A$1,000 (Say US$700). Some installers will do it for even less than that but I shy away from the real bottom dwellers.
And then the units themselves are also more expensive in USA, eg a Mitsubushi 3.5kW (say 12,000BTU) sells in Australia for around A$999 incl. GST or say US$700.
@@KpxUrz5745 Ain't that the truth, I've got a leaking coil on the indoor part part of my mini split. The parts are still under warranty but the labor isn't covered, they want over $2600 to replace the coil. Not sure how long it takes but I'm guessing refrigerant is $300 or so, either it's going to take a couple days or they're charging $500+ an hour for labor. I'm probably going to buy a unit and replace it myself. The power is already in place. Lines could probably be re-used but I'd probably get new just to do it right. I've got everything but a flaring tool already.
Wow, that is expensive. I did a service call for a ice machine on a Indian reservation, and had to drive about 1 hour to get there, then make the repair, and then drive to my next call. So my boss said I had to charge a certain minimum fee. I ended up spending most of the day driving there and back, so I was giving up the same amount of money as I could make on 4 service calls to customers within 30 minutes drive to each other.
So the $4,500 fee is very high, but I can also understand that cost. If he had to return to the shop for another 10 feet of copper tubing and go back the next day, that would make the $4,500 a money loss situation for the company.
Glad that the installation went smoothly. Perhaps a Mr Cool system with self install tubing would have worked much better in your case. The electrician could have completed everything. The tubing is sealed with a foil covering, and precharged with about 10 PSI of R-410. The indoor unit is also precharged with R-410. So when you put together the fittings, they open the foil covering and there is very little risk of refrigerant loss. The once you check with soap bubbles for leaks, you can open the refrigerant valves, and they have enough refrigerant in the outdoor unit to run the system.
I have a friend who was a traffic signal engineer for City of Long Beach California. He retired to a small town about 45 miles east of San Diego, and they had a town hall meeting to discuss installation of their very first red light. He suggested they call the company who would install this $100,000 traffic signal and get a cost estimate for installing new light bulbs, and to make a circuit board repair if the lights went to red flash. The answer was $1,200 for the technician to come out there, and spend up to 2 hours on site. If he had the correct part on his truck, then the cost of that part, or another $1,200 on the return trip. Cost to replace 1 or all of the light bulbs would be $1,218. The city decided to install a brand new traffic circle in the place of their 1 four way stop sign. I am thinking they must of had $80,000 to waste on some project in the city, and suddenly discovered a traffic circle would use up all of that money! Now it is a pain in the backside when a tractor trailer is trying to make it's way around the traffic circle.
It would be a better idea to run the vacuum pump over 60 minutes, to get out any amount of moisture in the lines. Also make sure that you let some of the refrigerant into the lines before trying to remove the line. With a vacuum in the line, there is a negative pressure, and will leak air into the lines if disconnected as shown. By opening the lines all the way, you will lose some refrigerant as you remove the line, however this is better than leaking air into the system. Best would be to open the valve a little bit, let some pressure into the lines (say 15. PSI), then shut the valve, disconnect your line, and then open both valves all the way.
Also I never leave the caps off of the valves when running the vacuum pump. It might be possible for air to enter the lines if left off.
Ideally, it would be good to use a "Micron Gauge" however in 38 years, I never bought one, as they are about $175. I have used them at work, when they buy the tools. Running the vacuum pump another hour, it will more than make up for the lack of using a proper vacuum micron gauge. R-22 systems are much more tolerant of lack of vacuum, and a little air or a few grains of water in the lines. R-410 will make acid out of any moisture in the lines. This will over time, eat away at the compressor windings.
You show self taping screws on your electrical panel. Are they "Blunt Front" screws, that will never dig into a loose wire? Blunt front screws are the only type allowed on a electrical cover to bolt it down.
If the unit is running 230 volts, then you should have used the two colored wires, and cap the white wire in the disconnect. If you use a white wire to a two pole circuit breaker, then it should have a wrap of black tape on it, so everyone will realize it is not a grounded neutral wire. If you happen to be running 120 volts, then the white wire Must Not go to the disconnect, but should have a wire nut on the white wire, so it stays connected when you turn off the power at the disconnect.
NEC does not allow black electrical tape to mark a white conductor as an ungrounded current carrying conductor in a cable assy. It must a permanent ink or paint that encircles the entire conductor, and two inches of coverage area is standard in my area. A sharpie ran up and down the conductor does well.
time isnt an issue ,when vacuuming a unit you cant use those gauges you require a micron gauge or torr gauge
You know so much. Is there any chance you can make a video?
I’m was looking this comment to make sure him did a wrong vacuum. When release the pump line with a negative pressure him loses the vacuum did. Now the best way it’s do the vacuum again and refill the 410A on line, right? How about use a used system with old pipes (probably with dust and humidity due they are opened) only a vacuum works or need some cleaning before vacuum?
When pulling a vacuum it is measured in microns not just -30 on the gauge. For R410A you wanna pull down to 300 microns and not exceed 500. With the right setup you could easily achieve that in 15 mins but I would bet with yours you did not. Also you wanna release the charge before removing the hose.
I came here to say the same thing. Just because you can hit 29.9 doesn’t mean it’s tight. Should have pressure tested first then pump.
I came to the comments to say exactly what you and Dan Ottaway said.
300-500 is 12-20" not enough to remove moisture and 15min is slack especially with POE. 29 for at least 2hrs no matter how big the pump.
@@davebrunson125 45 min should be fine for a small mini split.. watch ur micron gauge, it will pull down to 300 microns pretty quick
@@chrisnorris1379 Hack HVAC 12"/300 microns is not enough to even check for a leak, much less remove moisture especially for POE. No such thing as too much vacuum but not enough is trouble. You might catch on in 15-20 years
Great video! Comments cover some important things that help, but jeez Marie this is such a good guide.
NO! Read all the comments. He did several things wrong!
I've been doing HVAC installs for about 18 years. I'm not knocking this guy but all I can say is he sure did it the hard way.
I agree!! I was watching him install the lineset all the way through the wall, scraping all of it. Then coil up the tubing so it will retain oil in the tubing. The use the black and white wires for the two hot lines, and tape up the red wire? And use a 30 amp circuit breaker sized for the maximum wire rating, not the unit's MOCP rating of 15 amps. Sure a lot of mistakes.
Thanks for the video. I may be installing one soon and this shows well the basics. I saw numerous things I would do differently. The first 10 comments or so cover many of them like the dangerous high amp breaker and running white wire hot without marking it but several other things stood out to me: on the inside unit wiring both of the braided wires weren't twisted and so were splayed out with poor connection to the fastener, and at the refrigerant line connections both were bare for several inches and the insulation was just wrapped over them and not between them. One is warm and one is cold and they should be insulated from each other as best as possible. In fact I'd probably try to add extra insulation all along the runs as possible to increase efficiency.
The other note I'll make here is that hanging the outside unit on the wall may be convenient, cheaper, and look better but noise from the compressor will be much higher. I like quiet and a few bags of concrete for a separate base would be my plan. Again, thanks for the video, I appreciate it.
You checked for pressure leaks after you put a vacuum of 30hg in the condenser only. Not a bright move. The vacuum will pull the soapy mixture into the system. Not exposing any possible leaks, and contaminating the system. You should have opened the lines to the inside unit. Because you could have leaks between the two units. Second, pressurized the entire system, then leak checked it. After that pull a vacuum. Even though every thing was capped, the moment you opened them up you introduced moisture into a majority of the system. The vacuum that you apply is what removes it. Last continue with the filling of the system
Big mistake with electrical wiring. Do not run the NMB 10/3 Romex wire outside the building in a conduit to the AC disconnect. NMB is not rated for outside/wet locations even if it is in a conduit. UF cable is rated for this type of installation. He could have run 10/3 NMB from the panel to a junction box just on the other side of the wall and run a conduit containing UF cable or THHN/THWN wire to the AC disconnect. In addition the cables that are entering the bottom of the panel in the shop have no connector or bushing to prevent damage to the cables by the sharp edges of the KO.
Well hopefully you're still around. I just watched this do it yourself video and it was outstanding. You did a great job explaining everything and showing how it all came together right till the end. Again fantastic job.
NO! Read the comments. He did several things wrong!
@@Calango741 did you read my comment? So go ahead and read my comment and then rethink what you said. I did not say he did everything perfectly I said it was well-articulated.
Thanks for the video. I've found it very helpful. I think however that it's illegal to use any type of Romex or "SJ" sheathed wiring inside any type of conduit. I think solid or stranded wire such as THHN is the type to use for any conduit use.
Not sure if you consider UF-B to be sheathed, but it is perfectly fine to use UF-B in conduit outside. Given there is barely any price difference between romex and UF-B, I would rather use UF-B for everything.
One heck of an Install, although I would not attempt it myself. Great Video. I still learned something from you and as well as some of the comments. Thanks everyone.
I did the same a year ago with another brand, including electric work. As you mentioned, it was hard to find info on that part!
This video is a great service to DIY. I spent $1400 all in when quotes where $4k from pros.
Only thing curious is coiling the excess pipe behind the outside unit vertically. I thought that was a problem for some liquid that could block at the bottom (due to gravity) and reduce efficiency. Maybe it is a myth. Mine are horizontal on a flat rooftop.
You coiled the excess piping correctly in a horizontal plane. Vertical coils create an oil trap at the bottom of the coils. Oil droplets travel in the refrigerant through the system. The compressor obviously relies on proper oil return to lubricate bearing surfaces. Good job.
@Frank J what type unit did you go with? Trying to figure out which DIY unit is the best bang for my buck.
@@MeltingRubberZ28 Mr. Cool. Works great so far 2 years. Most HVAC techs will not want to service it or repair if needed to avoid liability. Good luck!
@@frankj5947 no issues with leaks or requiring recharge yet?
I appreciate your knowledge and thoroughness! Thank you for all your posts!
Oh My Goodness Thank you!!!! 😊
Watching you calmly and clearly explaining how to do everything step-by-step like this was so awesome. Mostly all the other Videos that I have seen are people just scream at the top of their lungs how you should never be doing something like this on your own and hire professionals only. 😑 But you have truly shown with a bit of know how and the right tools you could do all or most of this myself. 😊😊 Thank you again dear. 💓💓💓
No. There are mistakes all through this video. Please do not do this.
24:35 Wait hold up. You installed a 30amp double pole breaker for your 12,000BTU? Breakers are intended to protect wiring but also the system correct? If your unit needs to pop over 15amp, you need 15amp breakers right? Doesn't matter what kind of wire you have.
Or am i wrong here? I'm no electrician but this didnt make sense to me.
1 mistake is using a circuit breaker that is too high a capacity. The breaker needs to protect the pump, so keep it to spec, regardless of the thicker wire.
12.2 amps for a 12,000 unit so go find a 13amp. Breaker. Not gonna happen
Very informative and detailed, thanks. I'm building a woodshop and plan on putting a split system in myself so this was AWESOME!!!
That's perfect! I hope you love your new shop. I feel like going out to my shop is therapeutic for me, and the mini fridge full of my favorite sodas doesn't hurt :)
Great install but there are 3 things you messed up on. The first one was before you pull a vacuum on the system you need to pressure test the system with nitrogen to 300 psi. This is to test for leaks. Second, after the vacuum, you DO NOT pull the gauges off. You are in a negative pressure meaning as soon you start unscrewing your gauges you just let noncondensable into the system. You should have opened the king valves to release the charge so noncondensable cant enter the system. Third the most significant NO NO you sized the breaker for your line voltage wrong thing to do. You need to size it for the load you running. So for instance per instructions, let's say it needs a 15 amp double pole breaker to do the job you don't double it you can cause a fire if you have an intermitting short circuit. The manufacturer already factored in a safety buffer for the mini-split. Trust me I deal with mini-splits often in my field of work. When it comes to a single appliance on a circuit that's all the load that's going to be on that circuit. It's not like setting up outlets in a home or shop that's totally different you size it for the line, not the load because you don't have a continuous 15 amp 120v load on the circuit. PLEASE change out the circuit breaker!
Actually the nitrogen pressure test per Tosot is 500 psig. And vacuum should always be drawn down to 500 microns (per manufacturer and standard practice) to ensure moisture removal. 30” on a mechanical gage is a very inaccurate measure of vacuum. The refrigerant in that system used an oil with has a high affinity for moisture which was reintroduced when he broke the line before pressurizing the system with refrigerant. Doing the leak check after releasing the refrigerant is kind of a moot point. You got lucky in those line set flares, I’ve never have a good one yet.
Just curious, after you pressure test with nitrogen, do you pull a vacuum again before charging it with refrigerant?
@@kettch42 yes, the vacuum test is performed after the pressure test. But it’s not done “again”. After tubing installed and fittings are torqued to appropriate values, the next step is nitrogen pressure test per manufacturers recommended pressure, followed by vacuum test. Once vacuum test is completed satisfactorily, then you slowly introduce the refrigerant stored in condenser to the remaining portion of the system. Doing it this way ensures no air (and moisture) getting back into the system.
@@kettch42 No you pressure test the system first then vacuum out what little moisture that is left in the system. The nitrogen does 2 things one it's an azorbant for moisture that gets in the lines during the install or repair. Second it a cheap way to test for leaks versus loosing your expenses refrigerants.
Just finished installing a Tosot mini split. Works great. Thanks for this video and your follow up video. Referred to them both several times, really helped with the installation.
Just wanted to say thanks!! Installed my mini split today and this was my go to video when I had questions - Thanks again!
Next time use black and red for your hot wires. If you're using white for hot you might want to put some black tape so not to confuse people working on it as being neutral.
I slip a piece of red heatshrink over each end of the white wire when I'm running a 240V circuit.
The dufus actually thought it was a neutral line! He said so when he was installing the wiring in the panel. That's why he used the white wire. SMH 😆
great video.
You need to hit up Harbor Freight for their Step Drill Bits in case you need to increase those metal holes again :)
I didn’t even think of that! I have a stepped drill bit from HF too!
Just a word of caution! 24:30 Wasting copper by installing a far too thick wire is 1 thing, but you really shouldn't use a 30A breaker for something that requires half that! 30A breaker may trip far too late or not at all in case you have a faulty unit that is not quite dead shorted, just has low resistance for some reason, and thus may cause fire! If you know you're not gonna connect anything else on the line, you should always use the proper rated fuse/breaker! If you do connect something else on the line, then use just enough for all connected devices, although it's the safest to have a breaker for each heavy load individually with proper ratings!
Spot on, the breaker protects the wire from over current. In the uk channels like efix refer to them as over current devices.
Not sure about US breakers but in the uk they are rated for they type of load. So anything with a big inrush current needs a different type of breaker from the usual domestic circuits.
Air cons can be a problem as we had one at work that was not gassed correctly and kept blowing fuses. These were old style cartridge fuses so the building manager was going nuts until it was sorted.
When the motor in the compressor turns on it draws more current to overcome inertia, briefly it will draw more than the amperage that the cables are rated for but it will then drop down quickly. If you have say 16amp cables and a 16 amp breaker it will pop. But a correctly rated breaker will allow brief overcurrent and are rated in type. A type b will have trip between 3-5 times rated current, a type c 5-10 times, a type d 10-20 and type k 8-12 times. These are uk spec so not sure what’s used in the USA, but it will be similar effects. They are quoted in manufactures data. I would hope the manufacturer of the split unit would specify the breaker or at least the inrush current.
@@davideyres955 Most of our breakers are HVAC rated, but its good to verify the breaker spec.
Hope your still reading comments. This was a perfect video i finally found to use for my first split unit. Its funny i knew all this information and know how to apply it but the vague instructions had me seriously hesitating doing this for my customer who trusts me 100 percent. Question i have is . When the lines exit the building do they in no way need any other protective housing over them . To avoid sun rot to the tape or anything with force coming into contact with the length hanging down from the top to the pump. Example boys throwing football near the lines. Tree branch breaking off tree and swinging into or against the lines. Its a trivial question but i trust your insight.
Thank you for making such a great DIY video. I have seen where people use PVC to line and seal the hole in the wall so that you prevent insects and water from going into the wall.