This video couldn’t have more perfect timing. Installing new mini split in garage soon and I’ve been looking for this information/techniques. Much appreciated and great job! 💪🏻
I agree!!! I'm a licensed electrician. However, I have not done much residential. I have done mainly commercial, industrial, and heavy industrial. I'm looking to get into wiring new houses on my own.
Thank you for this video! I'm studying to become an electrical estimator and had no idea what they were talking about when it comes to a disconnect, now thanks to you everything is clear! 🌺
Great job Josh. Torque on breakers is important. So many don't do this simple procedure. Great to see every step and the importance of local codes. I have used a VEVOR Torque screwdriver for a while which is very handy. Again, such a wonderful video Josh. 🔨🔨👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks, David! Information stamped on the breaker is not very noticeable. It’s nice to know the torque specs are right on the side. Thanks for stopping by and watching my video! Take care, David!
the electrician that helped install my panel didn't torque ... He jammed the screws so tight that some of the copper was pinched almost in half. SO re terminated each breaker by cutting the pinched exposed wire he did and actually torqued it properly. That's annoying.
@@kennybutcher6307it sounds like you did the right thing. It doesn't take much to take that little bit of time to torque them. Over tightening them can also cause issues down the road. Hopefully your project is safe and secure now.
Wow! Great video, well explained without all the jabbering that is on so many channels. And your fast-forwards are perfect. Very well done!!! Thank you.
I really do appreciate all your detailed explanation. Because of your video I was able to properly wire and get my 18000 btu up and running !!!💪🏼💪🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼. Than you
Given the option - it's best to land these high current draw breakers closer to the main lugs, and things like lights and outlets below them. This helps keep that big back plate a little cooler. Not a big enough deal to re-wire the breakers that are already in the panel, but good to think about ahead of time when initially wiring up the panel
Nice to see your attaching the ground first, It would of been good to mention that when connecting, just as good practice even thou the breaker is off. Thanks nice video.
Note that for minisplits, you can actually size your wire to the minimum circuit ampacity that's on the unit's info plate, not the maximum over current protection (breaker size). Probably not issue oversizing as long as your termination points are rated for that wire gauge, but you may not have to.
I had the same problem you did at 13:40 knocking out the metal inserts. It seemed like mine was tacked welded to good when they made the box and more was removed than I wanted. So I had to buy reducing washers like you did. I feel better now.
Wonderful vid. What would be the different if you’re installing a 120v as opposed to 240. Do you still wire in your line the same? Since the white is neutral now how does it affect it?
I'd like to see a detailed guide on how to shorten the lineset down so all the excess is not coiled up. I've had a MrCool mini split for a couple years now that I installed start to finish including the AC disconnect and it's great minus the ugly lineset coiled up situation.
great detailed video! Very informative. Question.....on stranded wire, would it be better to solder the ends before installing it under the screws? Seems like with stranded, it would be easier for it to loosen up at some point.
I know the lugs are labeled with the inside as LINE and the outside as LOAD. But technically, it shouldn't matter if you reversed it. The pull piece just connects the two sides to each other, it doesn't care which is which or whether they are right or left, inside or outside, top or bottom. Correct?
Thank you for educating us, as we have more money to spend with this economy being good after a pandemic, we can hire the professionals and at least have the knowledge as to what we are paying for and what needs to be done.
🆘Question, if I have a 150 amp meter box and put a 60 amp disconnect plus have a 50 amp disconnect going to my main panel and another 50 amp disconnect going to a sub panel, is that to much for my meter? Can I do a 40 amp disconnect for my sub panel or main??? Do I sound like I have no clue because I didn’t know about electrical but I hired a neighbor to upgrade my 100 amp meter to a 150 amp and he has two 50 amps coming off the meter with one for my main and one for my sub panel! It doesn’t seem right and no and then I hear a buzzing noise coming from my meter panel box!!! Please help because I still don’t have a disconnect for my outside condenser unit!🙏🏼🆘
The total amps of all the breakers is irrelevant. If you have 150 amp service, then that’s how much you can use at any given time. Even if all the breakers add up to 200 amps. If you ever tried to use more than 150 your main would trip.
How do you move an existing electrical disconnect from a chain link fence to the side of a brick house? The chain link fence is up to the brick, so it will only be about 2'
This video has now made it extremely hard for me to see reason to hire an electrician to install a disconnect for the mini split I want to install for our garage
What would’ve been nicer is a bushing in the back of the disconnect for a flush fit with no gap between the disconnect and wall instead of that Romex connector.
Nice work, however @ 5:07 it would be nice to put some silicon at mounting block/vinyl transition to prevent moisture/water entering behind vinyl and eventually damaging wall
No reason to. The fuses would be redundant to the circuit breaker. Also they are extra expense and complexity. A fusible disconnect is roughly the same price as a non-fusible, but you have to buy fuses to make it work. Extra cost.
Fuses are faster acting than breakers in a short circuit. The breaker protects the wire and the fuse protects the compressor. A shorted compressor can cause a nasty burnout and create high acid in the hermetically sealed system. The greater intensity of burnout makes the compressor more difficult. A properly fused disconnect reduces the damage to the system. Another feature of a fuse is a thermal overload. After time through vibration and thermal expansion and contraction the lugs and blades on the disconnect become loose. This causes a voltage drop and can cause a compressor failure. The thermal function of the fuse can prevent a costly compressor failure. If the fuse blow it is best to examine the lugs and blades for blue discoloration and loose fitment. I have been using fused disconnects on HVAC equipment since 1977.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This video couldn’t have more perfect timing. Installing new mini split in garage soon and I’ve been looking for this information/techniques. Much appreciated and great job! 💪🏻
You are welcome! Good to hear. I hope it helps you. Let me know how it turns out!
I have to say........for an unlicensed electrician, you do a great job. Excellent video. You could definitely get your license if you chose too.
Thank you !
I agree!!! I'm a licensed electrician. However, I have not done much residential. I have done mainly commercial, industrial, and heavy industrial. I'm looking to get into wiring new houses on my own.
Thank you for this video! I'm studying to become an electrical estimator and had no idea what they were talking about when it comes to a disconnect, now thanks to you everything is clear! 🌺
Great job Josh. Torque on breakers is important. So many don't do this simple procedure. Great to see every step and the importance of local codes. I have used a VEVOR Torque screwdriver for a while which is very handy. Again, such a wonderful video Josh. 🔨🔨👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks, David! Information stamped on the breaker is not very noticeable. It’s nice to know the torque specs are right on the side. Thanks for stopping by and watching my video! Take care, David!
the electrician that helped install my panel didn't torque ... He jammed the screws so tight that some of the copper was pinched almost in half. SO re terminated each breaker by cutting the pinched exposed wire he did and actually torqued it properly. That's annoying.
@@kennybutcher6307it sounds like you did the right thing. It doesn't take much to take that little bit of time to torque them. Over tightening them can also cause issues down the road. Hopefully your project is safe and secure now.
Wow! Great video, well explained without all the jabbering that is on so many channels. And your fast-forwards are perfect. Very well done!!! Thank you.
Remodeling an old house I watch a lot of your content. Really appreciate the effort in your videos and they've helped me a bunch.
Excellent step by step. Nobody else has this content in this simple of terms. Thank you!
Great vid bro, probably the best vid ive seen on how to do this
I really do appreciate all your detailed explanation. Because of your video I was able to properly wire and get my 18000 btu up and running !!!💪🏼💪🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼. Than you
I like to put some duct seal around the cable connection before screwing on. Helps with reducing air and water entry.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the support!
Thank you! I’m installing a mini-split now and your advice has been very helpful!
Given the option - it's best to land these high current draw breakers closer to the main lugs, and things like lights and outlets below them. This helps keep that big back plate a little cooler. Not a big enough deal to re-wire the breakers that are already in the panel, but good to think about ahead of time when initially wiring up the panel
“I’m Now Gonna”. Awesome channel
Nice to see your attaching the ground first, It would of been good to mention that when connecting, just as good practice even thou the breaker is off. Thanks nice video.
Great video, good explanation straight to the point along with good directions.
Thank you.
Nice job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for your videos, those videos help me a lot of....
I try to make the videos as helpful as possible. Thanks for watching!
Note that for minisplits, you can actually size your wire to the minimum circuit ampacity that's on the unit's info plate, not the maximum over current protection (breaker size). Probably not issue oversizing as long as your termination points are rated for that wire gauge, but you may not have to.
I would over size to accommodate voltage drop.
Would it work if you decide to place both black wires on the left and red and white on the right? Just to keep the color code a bit less confusing
The torque is definitely not 45 pounds.!!
It's only 45 inch pounds..
Great video
Great video I've learned
Great video made it simple to understand!
I had the same problem you did at 13:40 knocking out the metal inserts. It seemed like mine was tacked welded to good when they made the box and more was removed than I wanted. So I had to buy reducing washers like you did. I feel better now.
I like your videos. They always contain handy techniques.
I try to throw in as much information as possible. Thanks for watching!
do you apply for the permit fist before installing?
My unit calls for 20a max. So it would be okay for me to go 20 double pole from main to a 30a outdoor breaker without hurting my unit?
How much torque are you using on that size screw. Thanx
Quality content and insights once again, thank you sir
That is the goal of my channel. I appreciate you watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer You are succeeding at that goal. I appreciate your time and effort sharing your impressive knowledge and insights
Wonderful vid. What would be the different if you’re installing a 120v as opposed to 240. Do you still wire in your line the same? Since the white is neutral now how does it affect it?
You wouldn’t break the neutrals, they would be wire nutted together and only the hot would go through the switch if it was a 120V circuit
I'd like to see a detailed guide on how to shorten the lineset down so all the excess is not coiled up. I've had a MrCool mini split for a couple years now that I installed start to finish including the AC disconnect and it's great minus the ugly lineset coiled up situation.
Just curious...I just bought the 12k (120v) and I'm wondering if I'll need the outside disconnect still.
If it's hard wired (as opposed to a plug), it needs a disconnect.
Nice job ... Thx
Thanks Eddy!
great detailed video! Very informative. Question.....on stranded wire, would it be better to solder the ends before installing it under the screws? Seems like with stranded, it would be easier for it to loosen up at some point.
No. It would cause problems down the road. The pressure will cause the solder or tinning to cold flow and loosen the connection.
I know the lugs are labeled with the inside as LINE and the outside as LOAD. But technically, it shouldn't matter if you reversed it. The pull piece just connects the two sides to each other, it doesn't care which is which or whether they are right or left, inside or outside, top or bottom. Correct?
That was 👍🏻Thanks again!
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Sweet. Very good explanation
Glad you liked it!
Has anyone idea about oil trap? System can work properly with this vertical rolls?
Which is better to use, a fuseable or non-fuseable disconnect?
Thank you for educating us, as we have more money to spend with this economy being good after a pandemic, we can hire the professionals and at least have the knowledge as to what we are paying for and what needs to be done.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
"Economy being good?" What planet are you living on??? Have you ever been to a grocery store or gas station lately??? All hanks to CLUELESS Joe!
Hahahahaha
Thanks bro imma use this same process to put a 240v plug on the side of my garage for an air compressor
🆘Question, if I have a 150 amp meter box and put a 60 amp disconnect plus have a 50 amp disconnect going to my main panel and another 50 amp disconnect going to a sub panel, is that to much for my meter? Can I do a 40 amp disconnect for my sub panel or main???
Do I sound like I have no clue because I didn’t know about electrical but I hired a neighbor to upgrade my 100 amp meter to a 150 amp and he has two 50 amps coming off the meter with one for my main and one for my sub panel! It doesn’t seem right and no and then I hear a buzzing noise coming from my meter panel box!!! Please help because I still don’t have a disconnect for my outside condenser unit!🙏🏼🆘
The total amps of all the breakers is irrelevant. If you have 150 amp service, then that’s how much you can use at any given time. Even if all the breakers add up to 200 amps. If you ever tried to use more than 150 your main would trip.
Great video really informative thank you.
Great video, can the ground wire just come from the mini split to AC disconnect?
And not the panel?
How do you move an existing electrical disconnect from a chain link fence to the side of a brick house? The chain link fence is up to the brick, so it will only be about 2'
Thank you so much it was really big help thank you
You're welcome!
Your videos are great!! Keep it up!
I’m glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Thank you
Top de mas eu sou técnico de mini split ar condicionado no Brasil mas eu estou em Massachusetts
This video has now made it extremely hard for me to see reason to hire an electrician to install a disconnect for the mini split I want to install for our garage
the guy that put mine in put a surge protector on too to help protect the condenser...
That’s not a bad idea!
Surge protectors are required (at least in California) on the main panel.
@@fuegoman45well in this case it’s a disconnect for a condenser and the disconnect also needs a surge protector
Arlington MM10 mounting block would've been better for this install. It's just right right size for a siemens 60 amp disconnect
Dumb question im sure, but how do you get away with not having the neutral?
The white wire is considered a neutral. I hope that helps!
Might want to mention the breaker must be positioned to take power from both sides of the bus bar
No neutral needed for this wiring?
What would’ve been nicer is a bushing in the back of the disconnect for a flush fit with no gap between the disconnect and wall instead of that Romex connector.
Nice work, however @ 5:07 it would be nice to put some silicon at mounting block/vinyl transition to prevent moisture/water entering behind vinyl and eventually damaging wall
Thank you! A little silicone there definitely would not hurt anything. Thanks for your input!
Why is neutral wire not needed?
Why’d you use 8-2 wire? I thought with the multi splite units, you need 8-3.
He’s using the neutral as a hot leg
I’m now gunna put a comment under this video.
I would have used 3 wire, so I would have a red sheathed conductor.
Next time make it more confusing for lay people. LOL
Why did you decide to purchase a non fusible disconnect? Why not install a fusible disconnect?
No reason to. The fuses would be redundant to the circuit breaker. Also they are extra expense and complexity. A fusible disconnect is roughly the same price as a non-fusible, but you have to buy fuses to make it work. Extra cost.
Fuses are faster acting than breakers in a short circuit. The breaker protects the wire and the fuse protects the compressor. A shorted compressor can cause a nasty burnout and create high acid in the hermetically sealed system. The greater intensity of burnout makes the compressor more difficult. A properly fused disconnect reduces the damage to the system.
Another feature of a fuse is a thermal overload. After time through vibration and thermal expansion and contraction the lugs and blades on the disconnect become loose. This causes a voltage drop and can cause a compressor failure. The thermal function of the fuse can prevent a costly compressor failure. If the fuse blow it is best to examine the lugs and blades for blue discoloration and loose fitment.
I have been using fused disconnects on HVAC equipment since 1977.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
@boomcity4942 Thank you so much for your help and your time. Your explanation was exactly what I was seeking and I cannot thank you enough
@@boomcity4942lol. Exactly. 1977. This isn’t 1977 anymore. Nobody in the 21st century uses a fused disconnect. It’s a waste of money.
That's 45 inch pounds, if someone was wondering. And be careful not to confuse with foot pounds.
An Electrician Gonna Be Angry
With You.
Amén.
The white wire you put black tape on should have had red tape on it
Never seen that. I always see black tape to indicate the wire is hot.
@fuegoman45 another choice could be red or black heat shrink on your conductor to indicate a "hot" .
Why.. where does code state red? Black is an acceptable color to re-identify a white conductor as hot