@@BahamianPilot06 yes just make sure the black wire goes to the circuit breaker and the white and bare wires go to the bus bar. Remember this is only for a 110 V if you’re trying to get 240 v then you need a double pole breaker.
@@mrdude3540 great, yes this is only a 115v unit I’m installing and I was curious on if I was allowed to use neutral and ground on the bus bar without a neutral bar at the panel, thanks this makes sense
I won’t comment on code because I’m not an electrician or inspector. But in terms of physics, this works. In terms of good practices, do it per code (or as right as you can). Sometimes it’s not about you but the guy behind you. Put the “line” wires to the panel. Put the “load” wires to the ac unit. You could wire a cat 5 terminal any way you want and as long as both ends match it’ll work and the tester will say it’s good. But the day there’s an issue the tech is going to replace one end and the whole house of cards come crashing down. So, again, do it as right as you can. You can use a white wire for hot too, but at least wrap it in red or black tape where you can see it. Same concept. Physics versus good practices.
Thanks so much for the video. All the others talk about using 220 in a disconnect but I just wanted 110w to hook up my Mr. Cool Mini split. Thanks for making it simple
Best video and explanation I've found so far to help install your electrical for a mini split. Thank you! I've been installing mini splits in my house to combat the high propane prices..so far this year, I've saved over 40% by switching to mini splits. Great investment and perfect for the do it yourselfers.
Well I’m glad to find this video very simple and easy to follow you uncomplicated everything all the others complicated and gave us some confidence 😂❤ thanks!
Appreciate this. Asked my retired electrician buddy by text earlier today by sending a picture of someone tying the whites together and not using the terminals to see if that was code, but hadn't heard back from him yet. But I rather go with the terminals. Still not sure if it's ok by code to tie the whites together though. Like to always go by code just in case with everything.
When you disconnect with the neutral on the lug, it actually leaves voltage resting on the neural on the load side, creating a potential of difference. Neutrals always need to remain continuous back to the source in order to prevent a shock hazard. I would recommend using the wire nut method or what I’ve done in the past is use a 20a single pole switch in a bell box with a weather proof red handle cover.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thanks again for this video!! I just installed a mini-split and had to rewatch this video when installing the AC disconnect outside and low and behold, I got it working!! Keep up the good work!! Not only have you got my like, I'm subscribing to you too.
As for the surge protector to install on the 120v disconnect box its pretty simple as well. Your surge protectors work for both 120v and 220v . The surge protector comes with 3 wires : 2 blacks and 1 white. The white is not the neutral but it is the ground. So tie it to the ground nut in the box. The other 2 wires ( black ), for the 120 wiring ,you tie the 2 blacks together as one wire and put it on the one the load side of the condenser wire hot black. Thats it. For 220 you put each black on the load sides. And cut the chord as short as it requires without bends. Hipe that helps a bit and gipe not confusing. Based in this video you put the 2 black wires of the surge protector together on the load side. And the ac coming in hot black on the as he shows. The neutral line in can be tied together with a nut or as he shows in this video. Every city has their own codes. Ask the inspector if you need to and wire it that way. But i shut breaker off from inside panel when i do service and the disconnect box as well.
I was wondering if you have a video (or can do one) on adding a surge protector to the 120V ac? I can't find any videos on this and just thought it would be helpful to others and a good addition to your channel. Much appreciated for this video as I connected a 'fused' disconnect using your information. I had a fuseable box so used it, otherwise I would have saved money by buying a non-fuseable disconnect.
My whip uses green,red, and black conductors opposed to your green,white and black conductors. Would I just use the red in the same configuration as your white into the disconnect?
Hi and welcome, Yes but an inspector may not approve of the color change. But if they do just replace the whip wire to natural white. I have been able to pass by wrapping the red with white tape. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
No, the a/c unit is known for tripping GFI and as per code I am almost certain everywhere in USA it's a dedicated line with only the disconnect allowed.
Is it ok to hook up two mini splits (assuming amperage loads are ok) to a single disconnect? I take it that I would splice them to the same outgoing nuts? Thanks
Hey Joe, Yes I have two videos one on a single unit for shop ruclips.net/video/07SB6aIJfPU/видео.html and the other dual system video ruclips.net/video/1WHYPfq6MGc/видео.html Thanks for visiting the channel and watching, I appreciate it!
Is it the same hookup if my minisplit unit is 115v with a 15amp breaker at the panel? Do you need a ac disconnect that's rated at 120/240 or any disconnect that says 240?
Hi, this is for the 120 with a 20 amp breaker but no you only need a 120 disconnect for a 120 mini split but if it's 240 then the disconnect needs to be listed as such for code
I have a older trane unit and it has 2 black wires. Not sure why. I am hesitant to hook it up because I am not sure what the extra goes to. (Line or load) If you have any ideas please let me know 👍
Well not knowing or seeing what you have I would contact Trane and ask. If it's a 240v most have a red and black for L1 L2 but like i said without seeing it I don't want to give you bad advice.
Hi Ryan, you are correct but like I said in the video that it didn't matter as the black or white block just makes the connection between the white wires on one side and the black wires on the other in this type of box. Good eye Ryan! Thanks for watching and joining in.
This was a GREAT video. The irony is that "certified" electricians either can't, or aren't about to explain anything. I think I'm over-thinking this, but this part doesn't confuse me as much as how this leads back to the main breaker panel. You see a lot of videos on this part of it. I need to run a new breaker from our main box across the house somewhere accessible to our 2nd floor master bedroom for a mini-split. And, I need to do it in a way that doesn't get me castrated because it looks like a huge eye-sore. Certified electricians want an insulting amount of money to do this, and short of running the wire, it doesn't seem like it's that hard of a job (compared to the mini-split install itself). Any advice, or link you can give on the 1st part of this...i.e. main fuse box to the shut-off?
I would say first check to see if your panel has any dedicated electrical line running in the area where you need it but isn't in use. I have seen that so many times. But if you need to run your own line it's not usually a problem if you have attic access, you can hide the line in the attic and drop it out under the roof eve. But you are correct running the line and connecting it is not a big deal.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thank you! I’m hoping, like you said there’s a line running to that side of the house. If I have to use the attic, I’ll have to wait till winter. It’s 120 degree’s up there literally. The heatwave/drought in Fl right now is beyond brutal. Fortunately, it looks like the electrical part of this should be fairly straight forward. Thanks again for the reply.
The Line is coming in from the breaker panel the load is going to the a/c unit. On one side of the disconnect is the black hot wire and the other side is the white neutral wire. hope this helps
@@Constantsorrow512 ah ok. I’m in an odd situation in an HOA where the fuse box is on the outside of another unit so I can’t just run lines through their place. Need to swap for a dedicated breaker to something else.
I can only find a electrical whip with 4 wires. The power coming from my panel will be done with 12/2 on a 20A circuit to the non fused disconnect. Where do I put the extra wires from the whip!!?
@@ILikeToBuildStuff does it matter if im using a 30A or 60A box if were relying on the breaker box for that, or is there probably a local code or something that will tell me which one to use?
@@___asd159gh43 Most A/C disconnects I've seen are 60 amp which is standard and most of the time less expensive. There's nothing wrong with using a 60 amp disconnect on a 30 amp unit as long as the circuit itself is on the proper size breaker.
@I Like To Build Stuff ok, cool. Cause all my local big box store had was a 30A and im adding a MrCool 115v which is supposed to run around 10A. But definitely all makes sense. Thanks for your help!
I will be using the wiring from my kitchen base board heater because we dont use it. It uses 2 20amp breakers in my main panel So wouldn't I just need to use 1 of the 20amp breakers and 1 ser of wires from that breaker for my disconnect? Thanks!
I hate pullout disconnects. I want to use the Square D 60 amp 240v breaker type disconnect, here is my idea please let me know what you think about it: Run hot wire from main panel to hot lug of disconnect box. Connect hot wire from ac to breaker. Connect both grounds to disconnect box ground bar. ADD an isolated neutral bar to the disconnect box and run both neutrals to that (seems better than just wire nut the neutrals together). If you know of a 120v single pole non fuse disconnect that is not the pullout type I would really appreciate a link to it. Thank you for your reply. Cheers
Hello, check out amzn.to/3FUaufp in my opinion this would work for 240v and 120v just choose the correct amperage breaker for the application. If you are looking to pass code the hot & neutral wires would all need to be terminated at the disconnect which I don't recommend any other method
@@ILikeToBuildStuff I'll look at that one. Yea most of the switches I've been looking at while being shut off are not true disconnects as the neutrals remain bonded to the circuit. I dont like working on equipment even if the hots are disconnected if the neutrals are still active. While I don't have any circuits that share neutral runs I just feel better if the disconnect switch disconnects both the hot and neutral lines entirely which is why I was hesitating about turning the breaker disconnect into a switch disconnect. Thanks for your input. Edit: I think the Siemens LNF221R lever disconnect is what I need. Each pole side is isolated so I can run the hot to one side and the neutral to the other pole. As such the lever would disconnect both lines simultaneously.
Where does the red wire go? Also, my disconnect has two extra places that your box doesn't have. I have to assume those would be for fused connections. Nonetheless, I removed those and still don't know where the red wire goes (from the whip). The bozo local yokel I had install my ductless simply used the disconnect as a junction box, which is how my motherboard got fried. It's how all the ac guys here do it, which is why I've become a DYIer out of necessity. So, I'm trying to fix this and do things properly. Meanwhile, the various how-to install disconnect videos I've watched do not discuss the red wire, and there are conflicts on whether I treat the load white as hot. I'm way confused. A little help?
I am going to assume that your unit is 120v and not 240v in which case the red wire would be for the 240v so it sounds like the red wire is not hot but an extra inside the whip, you should verify that it is a unused wire and that no current .
Good morning, this box was $1 more and can be used up to 60 amps so if I ever want to change out for a bigger split I can. The disconnect has nothing to do 20 or 60 amp in the breaker box you need to put the right amp breaker according to each unit unless the disconnect has a breaker itself.
correct it just makes the connection when you insert the bar and as far as the main panel was a 20 amp single throw with the black hot wire to the breaker the white wire to the neutral bar and ground to ground bar.
Well that's because if someone is not comfortable installing a breaker in a service panel they may want to hire someone who is, I say this for safety concerns and why I don't show it. I know you watch an entire video so you don't miss how to do the job but there are thousands that skip around a video assuming they are getting all the information they need and unfortunately can cause harm not only to them but to others.
You keep saying a 20 amp breaker but when you’re hooking both lines to a line terminal then it’s no longer a neutral correct?! So that 20 amp breaker to talk about is it a 2 pole 20 amp breaker?!
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all others were showing 220. the mini unit calls for 120 and I have a 20 amp breaker at the box and you nailed it Sir.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
You can use a single 20 amp breaker for a 110v mini split. Black goes to breaker white and green go to bus bar
@@mrdude3540so two wires to the bus bar and one to the breaker?
@@BahamianPilot06 yes just make sure the black wire goes to the circuit breaker and the white and bare wires go to the bus bar. Remember this is only for a 110 V if you’re trying to get 240 v then you need a double pole breaker.
@@mrdude3540 great, yes this is only a 115v unit I’m installing and I was curious on if I was allowed to use neutral and ground on the bus bar without a neutral bar at the panel, thanks this makes sense
I won’t comment on code because I’m not an electrician or inspector. But in terms of physics, this works. In terms of good practices, do it per code (or as right as you can). Sometimes it’s not about you but the guy behind you. Put the “line” wires to the panel. Put the “load” wires to the ac unit.
You could wire a cat 5 terminal any way you want and as long as both ends match it’ll work and the tester will say it’s good. But the day there’s an issue the tech is going to replace one end and the whole house of cards come crashing down.
So, again, do it as right as you can. You can use a white wire for hot too, but at least wrap it in red or black tape where you can see it. Same concept. Physics versus good practices.
Thanks so much for the video. All the others talk about using 220 in a disconnect but I just wanted 110w to hook up my Mr. Cool Mini split. Thanks for making it simple
Thanks Greg for watching I appreciate it!
Best video and explanation I've found so far to help install your electrical for a mini split. Thank you! I've been installing mini splits in my house to combat the high propane prices..so far this year, I've saved over 40% by switching to mini splits. Great investment and perfect for the do it yourselfers.
I sure appreciate you joining in here Brian and the great comment it means a lot to me that you would take the time to watch my video also!
How do your system does when it is 10 f degree outside?
Well I’m glad to find this video very simple and easy to follow you uncomplicated everything all the others complicated and gave us some confidence 😂❤ thanks!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Appreciate this. Asked my retired electrician buddy by text earlier today by sending a picture of someone tying the whites together and not using the terminals to see if that was code, but hadn't heard back from him yet. But I rather go with the terminals. Still not sure if it's ok by code to tie the whites together though. Like to always go by code just in case with everything.
Here we have to terminal on a disconnect
Dude you wired it wrong
When you disconnect with the neutral on the lug, it actually leaves voltage resting on the neural on the load side, creating a potential of difference. Neutrals always need to remain continuous back to the source in order to prevent a shock hazard. I would recommend using the wire nut method or what I’ve done in the past is use a 20a single pole switch in a bell box with a weather proof red handle cover.
Hello Emmett, Thanks for sharing! We all appreciate the comments and for watching.
Short, sweet, and straight to the point.
I sure appreciate you joining in here Bryan, and the great comment. it means a lot to me that you would take the time to watch my video!
Thank you sir ! This is the video I was looking for 120v 20 amp.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Extremely well done. Clear and concise. Thank you sir!
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Regard less it’s hot or neutral, as long as you put your AC lines to the Load and source lines to the Line, will be fine, correct?
That is correct
Thank you so much!! This was really helpful for me!! I'm doing two 120v mini splits and this came in really handy!!
Hey Michael, thanks for the great comment and watching the video I sure appreciate the support.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thanks again for this video!! I just installed a mini-split and had to rewatch this video when installing the AC disconnect outside and low and behold, I got it working!! Keep up the good work!! Not only have you got my like, I'm subscribing to you too.
@@keepmichaellong Thanks for the support Michael
Couldn't you just wire nut the 2 whites together?
As for the surge protector to install on the 120v disconnect box its pretty simple as well. Your surge protectors work for both 120v and 220v . The surge protector comes with 3 wires : 2 blacks and 1 white. The white is not the neutral but it is the ground. So tie it to the ground nut in the box. The other 2 wires ( black ), for the 120 wiring ,you tie the 2 blacks together as one wire and put it on the one the load side of the condenser wire hot black. Thats it. For 220 you put each black on the load sides. And cut the chord as short as it requires without bends. Hipe that helps a bit and gipe not confusing. Based in this video you put the 2 black wires of the surge protector together on the load side. And the ac coming in hot black on the as he shows. The neutral line in can be tied together with a nut or as he shows in this video. Every city has their own codes. Ask the inspector if you need to and wire it that way. But i shut breaker off from inside panel when i do service and the disconnect box as well.
Super helpful! One question: my electrician wired 12 gauge to my disconnect. Can I use a 10 gauge AC whip with that?
Sure, you just can't go the other way to smaller wires.
I was wondering if you have a video (or can do one) on adding a surge protector to the 120V ac? I can't find any videos on this and just thought it would be helpful to others and a good addition to your channel. Much appreciated for this video as I connected a 'fused' disconnect using your information. I had a fuseable box so used it, otherwise I would have saved money by buying a non-fuseable disconnect.
Great idea, I will look into that. Thanks for the input!
Did you use 12-2 to the disconnect and the outside unit? Or did you use 10 going from the disconnect to the outside unit?
Yes, on a 20amp circuit I ran a dedicated 12-2. Thanks for watching!
Hi great video, my question is..the system uses a 20amp braker, so can i use a 30 or 60 amp disconnect box? Thanks
Yes you can! and thanks for watching
My whip uses green,red, and black conductors opposed to your green,white and black conductors. Would I just use the red in the same configuration as your white into the disconnect?
Hi and welcome, Yes but an inspector may not approve of the color change. But if they do just replace the whip wire to natural white. I have been able to pass by wrapping the red with white tape. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thank you
Can I do the same process if I want to add a 120 outlet to the disconnect box?
It should not have a receptical in the line, unit to disconnect then disconnect to dedicated 20amp breaker homerun to electrical box
The inside two connections are more insulated and should recieve the source wires. The two outer bare connections are for the outgoing lines.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Agree. Inside connectors are for the line (to the panel), outside connectors are for the load (ac unit).
Hi Jim, question can I mount a gfi outlet on the disconnect /120v sharing the same power source to the a/c ?
No, the a/c unit is known for tripping GFI and as per code I am almost certain everywhere in USA it's a dedicated line with only the disconnect allowed.
Very helpful thank you sir🙏🏿🙏🏿👏🏿👏🏿💪🏿💪🏿✊🏿✊🏿
Thanks for watching and the comment
Is it ok to hook up two mini splits (assuming amperage loads are ok) to a single disconnect? I take it that I would splice them to the same outgoing nuts? Thanks
As per code NO, you must have a disconnect for each unit
Great job. Right to the point.
Much appreciated!
Is it possible to add an outlet from a quick disconnect line?
This has been done but not advisable.
I see you have a condenser like the one I purchased, have you done a video installation of this unit with air handler
Hey Joe, Yes I have two videos one on a single unit for shop ruclips.net/video/07SB6aIJfPU/видео.html and the other dual system video ruclips.net/video/1WHYPfq6MGc/видео.html
Thanks for visiting the channel and watching, I appreciate it!
What is the hight requirement for the outdoor disconnect
Hi John, in my area is 48 inches but I am to understand this varies in other places. I have never seen or placed one lower than 36" myself though
Good info thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Chris.
Should phase tape/re identify line neutral that is also hot.
You can but I have never had a problem with inspectors but it is a good point, thanks for commenting we appreciate it.
How is the neutral hot? It's only a 120 circuit. The disconnect has 2 sides to accommodate 240 but it's effectively just an on -off switch. Right?
Is it the same hookup if my minisplit unit is 115v with a 15amp breaker at the panel? Do you need a ac disconnect that's rated at 120/240 or any disconnect that says 240?
Hi, this is for the 120 with a 20 amp breaker but no you only need a 120 disconnect for a 120 mini split but if it's 240 then the disconnect needs to be listed as such for code
I don't see just a 120 disconnect anywhere it's usually showing 120/240 in the listings. I am trying to figure out what I need for my setup
@@giovannipaul007 No problem here ya go amzn.to/3FaoLUR
I have a older trane unit and it has 2 black wires. Not sure why. I am hesitant to hook it up because I am not sure what the extra goes to. (Line or load) If you have any ideas please let me know 👍
Well not knowing or seeing what you have I would contact Trane and ask. If it's a 240v most have a red and black for L1 L2 but like i said without seeing it I don't want to give you bad advice.
Aren't the line lugs in the middle and the load lugs on the two outer 2 terminals?
Hi Ryan, you are correct but like I said in the video that it didn't matter as the black or white block just makes the connection between the white wires on one side and the black wires on the other in this type of box. Good eye Ryan! Thanks for watching and joining in.
thank you so much . this was what i wanted to know.
Glad it was helpful!
Can you use a 220 disconnect and wire the same way? The 120 is hard to find.
Here ya go Brian amzn.to/3FaoLUR
@@ILikeToBuildStuffgreat video, thanks! Btw the Halex HNF60R is 240v rated and I will also install it to my 120v mini split.
This was a GREAT video. The irony is that "certified" electricians either can't, or aren't about to explain anything. I think I'm over-thinking this, but this part doesn't confuse me as much as how this leads back to the main breaker panel. You see a lot of videos on this part of it. I need to run a new breaker from our main box across the house somewhere accessible to our 2nd floor master bedroom for a mini-split. And, I need to do it in a way that doesn't get me castrated because it looks like a huge eye-sore. Certified electricians want an insulting amount of money to do this, and short of running the wire, it doesn't seem like it's that hard of a job (compared to the mini-split install itself). Any advice, or link you can give on the 1st part of this...i.e. main fuse box to the shut-off?
I would say first check to see if your panel has any dedicated electrical line running in the area where you need it but isn't in use. I have seen that so many times. But if you need to run your own line it's not usually a problem if you have attic access, you can hide the line in the attic and drop it out under the roof eve. But you are correct running the line and connecting it is not a big deal.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Thank you! I’m hoping, like you said there’s a line running to that side of the house. If I have to use the attic, I’ll have to wait till winter. It’s 120 degree’s up there literally. The heatwave/drought in Fl right now is beyond brutal. Fortunately, it looks like the electrical part of this should be fairly straight forward. Thanks again for the reply.
Are you using 12/2 wire?
Hi Anthony, Yes on the 110v units with a short run I do.
Thanks I needed this. The instructions were not clear on the box
Sorry I was not clear about this and will try better next time.
My ac disconnect box says (load and line)... So load is neutral/white wire?...
The Line is coming in from the breaker panel the load is going to the a/c unit. On one side of the disconnect is the black hot wire and the other side is the white neutral wire. hope this helps
@@ILikeToBuildStuff yes.. thank you
Is it possible to use the wiring from an outlet but keep the outlet? Im so confused at why nobody has explained this
Yes it's possible, safe as well, but won't pass code anywhere in the US.
@@Constantsorrow512 ah ok. I’m in an odd situation in an HOA where the fuse box is on the outside of another unit so I can’t just run lines through their place. Need to swap for a dedicated breaker to something else.
What Randy Said!
can you explain me..why connect a 60 amp box to the A/C and not a 30 Amps box? if isn't 220 volts?
It's mainly the box that can handle up to 60amps but it's the breaker that will control the 30amp shutoff
I can only find a electrical whip with 4 wires. The power coming from my panel will be done with 12/2 on a 20A circuit to the non fused disconnect. Where do I put the extra wires from the whip!!?
Hi Mathew, you should be able to pull the non used wire out no problem
@@ILikeToBuildStuff does it matter if im using a 30A or 60A box if were relying on the breaker box for that, or is there probably a local code or something that will tell me which one to use?
@@___asd159gh43 Most A/C disconnects I've seen are 60 amp which is standard and most of the time less expensive. There's nothing wrong with using a 60 amp disconnect on a 30 amp unit as long as the circuit itself is on the proper size breaker.
@I Like To Build Stuff ok, cool. Cause all my local big box store had was a 30A and im adding a MrCool 115v which is supposed to run around 10A. But definitely all makes sense. Thanks for your help!
@@___asd159gh43 You Bet!
I will be using the wiring from my kitchen base board heater because we dont use it. It uses 2 20amp breakers in my main panel
So wouldn't I just need to use 1 of the 20amp breakers and 1 ser of wires from that breaker for my disconnect? Thanks!
Hi Ernie, Yes as long as that is what your unit requires. I say that because another viewer ask that and I said yes but his was a 220v
super. very simple and direct
Thank you 🙂
I hate pullout disconnects. I want to use the Square D 60 amp 240v breaker type disconnect, here is my idea please let me know what you think about it: Run hot wire from main panel to hot lug of disconnect box. Connect hot wire from ac to breaker. Connect both grounds to disconnect box ground bar. ADD an isolated neutral bar to the disconnect box and run both neutrals to that (seems better than just wire nut the neutrals together). If you know of a 120v single pole non fuse disconnect that is not the pullout type I would really appreciate a link to it. Thank you for your reply. Cheers
Hello, check out amzn.to/3FUaufp in my opinion this would work for 240v and 120v just choose the correct amperage breaker for the application. If you are looking to pass code the hot & neutral wires would all need to be terminated at the disconnect which I don't recommend any other method
@@ILikeToBuildStuff I'll look at that one. Yea most of the switches I've been looking at while being shut off are not true disconnects as the neutrals remain bonded to the circuit. I dont like working on equipment even if the hots are disconnected if the neutrals are still active. While I don't have any circuits that share neutral runs I just feel better if the disconnect switch disconnects both the hot and neutral lines entirely which is why I was hesitating about turning the breaker disconnect into a switch disconnect. Thanks for your input. Edit: I think the Siemens LNF221R lever disconnect is what I need. Each pole side is isolated so I can run the hot to one side and the neutral to the other pole. As such the lever would disconnect both lines simultaneously.
Thank you!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching.
Where does the red wire go? Also, my disconnect has two extra places that your box doesn't have. I have to assume those would be for fused connections. Nonetheless, I removed those and still don't know where the red wire goes (from the whip). The bozo local yokel I had install my ductless simply used the disconnect as a junction box, which is how my motherboard got fried. It's how all the ac guys here do it, which is why I've become a DYIer out of necessity. So, I'm trying to fix this and do things properly. Meanwhile, the various how-to install disconnect videos I've watched do not discuss the red wire, and there are conflicts on whether I treat the load white as hot. I'm way confused. A little help?
I am going to assume that your unit is 120v and not 240v in which case the red wire would be for the 240v so it sounds like the red wire is not hot but an extra inside the whip, you should verify that it is a unused wire and that no current .
I’m curious if the circuit is only 20 A why did you use a 60 amp
Good morning, this box was $1 more and can be used up to 60 amps so if I ever want to change out for a bigger split I can. The disconnect has nothing to do 20 or 60 amp in the breaker box you need to put the right amp breaker according to each unit unless the disconnect has a breaker itself.
It will go up to 60amp
@@ryandodson2786 Yes this box is rated up to 60 amp but it is limited to the breaker in the main feed.
120 single phase doesn't matter where u put them? How did u wire in main panel?
correct it just makes the connection when you insert the bar and as far as the main panel was a 20 amp single throw with the black hot wire to the breaker the white wire to the neutral bar and ground to ground bar.
That’s the million dollars question 😂
Lol no one ever show the main box, just disconnect box
Thank you for you video
So nice of you, thank you for watching!
Thank you
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
You have to start in your house electric box first then to that box outside then to your mini split
Yes, you would need to make a home run to this box.
Wish it was a closer pic as on my phone I can't tell what you are doing.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it! I will try to do better.
@@ILikeToBuildStuff Watched on my computer and MUCH better. Thanks for your info!
@@yolandawebster7808 Thank you
Good job budd 😊thank you 😊
Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
thanks.
No k es showing how u wire it to your breaker box
Well that's because if someone is not comfortable installing a breaker in a service panel they may want to hire someone who is, I say this for safety concerns and why I don't show it. I know you watch an entire video so you don't miss how to do the job but there are thousands that skip around a video assuming they are getting all the information they need and unfortunately can cause harm not only to them but to others.
You keep saying a 20 amp breaker but when you’re hooking both lines to a line terminal then it’s no longer a neutral correct?! So that 20 amp breaker to talk about is it a 2 pole 20 amp breaker?!
You can use a 2 pole but with this disconnect it just stops power to unit for servicing and code. A single pole works fine for this application.
You don't put a fitting where your wire get in the box, so no water goes in and the wire is secured?
You are correct, I did go back and use a sealer there and have had no problems. Good eye Yan!
That’s 240v and there’s no neutral his using the white as the second hot because his using a double pole breaker.
Well this was 120 and just an A/C disconnect with a homerun to a 20 amp breaker single pole
@@ILikeToBuildStuffso your neutral goes to the bus bar along with the ground correct?
@@BahamianPilot06 120v or 240v ???
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You need to change your title to denote this is a Mini-Split and NOT a common A/C unit. There IS a difference.
Thanks for the input Richard I appreciate that.
It's all Chinese to me. 😔
Then definitely hire a pro Ava.
thank you
You're welcome, Samuel thanks for watching!