Installing Service disconnect on vinyl siding for HVAC condenser unit🤔
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- Опубликовано: 23 фев 2023
- Hello to all my viewers. Working Man 🛠️ Ron Doyle here. I'm a Master Electrician on Maryland's Eastern Shore performing electrical videos on houses I'm wiring, with the hopes to assist you in your electrical needs. Currently we're still on 2017 N.E.C. code. I'm adding in Eaton 60 amp non- fused disconnect over vinyl siding on a new construction home in Salisbury Maryland. I hope this video was of some help to you. If you liked the video, please 👍🏻 and consider subscribing to my channel for more videos on things electricians do. God bless you in all your endeavors 🙏.
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This is a guy that genuinely cares about his workmanship. Its more then chasing a paycheck. He’s thinking of consequences(good and bad) that others will have to deal with years down the road, that are made by good or bad work done today.
I've never seen anyone caulk the box before...talk about going the extra mile! Thanks for posting this!
This man is a real professional . 👏
Installed and wired my own 60amp non-fuse disconnect for my new AC unit thanks to this video. Working perfectly. Really appreciate how thorough this was.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻 I appreciate it☺️
best video on wiring and placement of a disconnect. Many thanks!
You provided all the answers to the questions I had. THX!
Excellent video!
Very good explanation of all steps. Thanks!
Nice work. Thanks for sharing those tips.
Installed the two disconnects for my A/C with this video today. Super helpful. Thanks a lot. The 1/4" PEX and silicone in place of the clamp were brilliant.
Thanks for watching and commenting 😊. I'm glad it helped you.
Thanks for your channel it is really great Ron. Always informative and professional
Professional at work!
Very professional!
Looks great! I love that you actually think about the future!
Well done!
One of the best video and presentations on RUclips….definitely subscribed
Thanks for watching and comment. I really appreciate it 🤠
Excellent install with good tech tips throughout ... Thx
Such a professional work
Awesome, clever tricks. Love the spacer idea with the pex
Very helpful video 👍
Incredible video my friend! Very detail oriented 😊
Beautiful, wonderful , amazing job 🙏🌹✌️
Excellent work!
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻. I really appreciate the compliment ☺️
Thank you - thank you - I need to do exactly this for a split unit! Awesome video - perfect!
Nice job, above the call of duty.
Its shows a quality installation when you keep in mind Serviceability and longevity.
Thanks Mack 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice job.
My condolences. That was genius, awesome video! Thank you!
Excellent job bro 😎
Good video. Something worth mentioning, besides checking the height of the subfloor, you need to check the direction/location of the floor joists. The last thing you want to do is drill your pass through hole and hit the end of a joist
Thanks for watching. Your absolutely right. I've been there and done that before. That is one thing 🤔 I forgot to mention! I really appreciate this comment 👍🏻
Excellent video
Thank you Chip 👍🏻👍🏻 I appreciate the compliment and you watching.
Awesome video! I especially appreciate your guidance on how to do this to code along with your general workmanship tips. Very good. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching and the compliment Mark. I'm glad you liked it 👍🏻
Thank you an excellent job all work should be to this standard.
Thanks for watching and the compliment Paul. I really appreciate it 👍🏻
Very good video my friend, thank you for the information!
I installed silicone for a major commercial aviation manufacturer, instead of just "slicking the silicone with your finger" which gets unpaintable residue all over the siding, mask 1/4" off all around your application area, inject your silicone ensuring no voids are present and then use a plastic scraper with about a 1/2" radius on one of the corners to shape the silicone. The 90 degree corners on a lodge cast iron skillet scraper is absolutely perfect for this. If you get build up on your scraper, wipe it off. You want your radiused edge to end right at your masked edge so theres no shelf when masking is removed. Remove masking tape immediately. Also, clean the entire work area first with Isopropyl Alcohol and a fresh wiper before applying any silicone product, that will ensure 100% adhesion and no penetration or bond failures. If you do have to shape with your finger (it happens), wear a glove and douse it in IPA. As long as youre using a pure silicone, the alcohol will create a perfectly smooth finished product.
Thanks so much for the tips. 👍🏻👍🏻
Wow great video thank you !!!!
Thanks for watching 🤠
Thank you sir, God bless you.
Thanks for watching and the compliment. God bless you as well🙏
My favorite part is the sigh after someone asks how it going? Been there. Thx. Installing a mini split ac and this was perfect for me. Liked and subbed!
Great video. You earned a new subscriber.
By the way very nice work!
Much appreciated video upload. You can tell you are a man of the trades. I appreciate how thorough you are with your steps, with what material you are using, the reasoning behind the method, and how to complete the task under appropriate codes using proper tools. Other videos are just for the hits, speeding through their process. You do not have the fancy video editing that other home-improvement channels have but your video explains what the viewer needs to learn in a thorough manner. You could be an actual instructor for house wiring, I think.
Also I too prefer to also use the back of the AC Switch knockout whenever possible because it is quicker, less conduit to hassle with (time & money) and looks cleaner. But I learned from you the tip with the PEX spacers when mounting a secure fit to the AC Switch on vinyl siding.
Thanks for the kind words of inspiration Pam ❤️ I really needed that, this morning. I hope you hang around for future videos to come. I wish you an awesome and blessed day my friend 🙏
The 'rub method' lol I love it.Funny cuz I do exactly the same thing,I just never would have thought of calling it the rub method lol
Thanks for watching and commenting. Yep, the rub method can save on some unnecessary mistakes that could cost us, big time🤣😂
Personally, I love the service loop!! Thanks for the info, getting ready to install my 50 amp service (GFCI Box) for our new hot tub, and was wondering how to deal with the siding. Big help! I also like the PVC pipe connector idea, had already bought one when I saw your video... and... I will certainly give myself a loop of wire behind the wall!
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻. I glad you liked the video.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 Absolutely! Got the box mounted this afternoon... now I just have to route that darn number 6-3 cable to the box! Gotta go across (over) a finished basement room and then down the back walkout basement wall to the box... :) I have some conduit run already, just have to figure out how to get the wire through the conduit!
Professional
I like this video. Nice work. But what I notice on just about any home repair or installation video is that no matter what the job is, in the case of working on my old house, the jobs I face are always about 5 or 10 times more difficult, and often take days instead of hours to do. There are countless reasons for this.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I've experienced the same thing on old work/preexisting homes. They always take longer than I expected. Had to make money if it feels like your dragging your feet on a job. Your gotta take the good with the bad. Not everyday is gravy.
Great video Ron I like the fact that you take pride on what you do and explained it in a way even the slowest people can understand. Question can you please help me understand in the code book (NEC)stated that we can not run nm-b cable in wet locations even in conduit. Under the house consider as a wet location.
Thanks for watching and this topic. It has came up a lot in different code classes I have sat through. I had this very same question many years ago 🤔. The electrical inspector (George Landing) I used for many years explained it best. He told me there are a few codes that are related around this type of install. 1) under a house with an adequate accessible crawl space of 24"+ in height is considered a dry location. Houses that are blocked, backfilled, and poured concrete don't meet this criteria. 2) A stright piece of conduit under 24" in length with only one
T/A (aren't consider) a conduit raceway. But rather a sleeve. Code doesn't allow NM type wire in (enclosed- raceways) due to heat build up. This conduit sleeve going through the direct back of a service discount is open ended and within the scope of it's enclosure (service disconnect). Now on the other hand 🤔 If someone were to attach an LB to this sleeve making it a (raceway) to send it below or to the side of the service disconnect that is mounted outside in a wet environment🤔 Your now, sending it outside the scope of the enclosure and a different type of wire must be used such as thhw , thwn, or a UF type of wire. I hope that brings you some clarity as it done me years ago.
Nice job leaving slack
Good Job!! Your working on a disconnect for an AC Unit, so you need that hole in your shirt to AC you. Well at least that's what I tell everybody.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You got that right. 😂🤣
A tee-shirt with
built in AC.
Took a little too long to mount a box but the jobs done. I usually run the romex first from panel to general area, drill hole, run romex through hole and then mount box. Saves all the measuring you have to do. Trying to mount box first doesnt make sense to me personally cuz then you have to make sure theres no joist on the other side or anything thatll be in the way. When you run romex first, youll know exactly where the box will sit.
I learned 2 things today, there's no neutral. Typically I've connected dryer cords and they have a neutral, same with 220 stoves. Interesting that AC does not need it.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Very true. Today's appliances have a lot of 120 volt electrics in them. Unlike a condenser unit on an HVAC system.
Great educational video! What is the panel you are using? Wires don't have to go through the holes.
Thank you for watching and commenting 👍🏻 The panel (load center) in this video is a Square D Homeline with the (quick grip feature)
Thank you Ron for sharing this feature, I found this panel in HD.@@workingmanrondoyle3287
great diy ! very clear and professional tips. might need to caulk that shirt hole 1 day
You could also use an NM bushing clamp to secure your cable.
What is an NM bushing clamp?
I believe he's referring to the plastic type of NM clamps made. They have plastic fingers inside that hold the wire in place. I also call them bushing clamps.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 thanks. You mean the ones that snap into the knockout hole? Do any of those mate up to conduit? I need to use a small piece of conduit as a sleeve for my cable as it goes through the wall, but all conduit termination that would attach to the rear of a metal box has no means of gripping the wire.
@@shanefrank3281 One end of the conduit sleeve, use a female threaded adapter and screw in a Metal NM-wire clamp. The other end use a male adapter entering the box. Only one end needs to be holding the wire. Not both ends.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 thanks. That makes sense.
How about showing thru brick on a full panel with a quick disconnect
Thanks for watching and the video suggestions. If that opportunity comes up, I would be glad to do it. Right now hardly anyone is building brick houses. But would make a great video.
Great video. Exactly the mounting option I was looking for to set up a mini-split. What are the specs on the wire?
The HVAC contractor told me it would be a standard system for this house. 240 volt at 25 amps. The NM wire I'm using is 90 Celsius rating. If your doing this for a mini-split system 🤔 it depends on the equipment you buy. I've seen them 120 volt and 240 volt with the amperage 15 to 30 amps. I hope that helps you.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 It does help and thanks for the quick reply! It is a 220/240 system and the issue I've been chasing is whether to run 8/2 NM indoor or look for an outdoor rated wire (not sure the type) as I guess you could consider this a possible dampness area in the disconnect box. I did see where you sealed the wire with silicone so maybe for just the feed wire standard indoor would work. Then I would use a wire whip run to the outdoor unit.
@@cya442 that must be a very large mini split unit for needing an 8 ga. wire. In my area NM is allowed under houses and to land directly inside a service disconnect. All outside applications need to be of UF type or single conductors =solid or stranded such as thwn. Ran inside a flexible conduit. I'll post a video on the making and installation of whips to an HVAC condenser unit. 🤔 Thanks for replying back 👍🏻
super nice job!,,,, how much does it cost to install a disconnect box like this for a split unit?
Hey William . If you already have the feed in the right location, your 80% there. The disconnect, whip,wire, fitting and siding block if you use one? Should be around $70. Depending on where you live. The labor will be more if you hire someone to do it for you.
I was just installing one of these yesterday, my thought on the remex clamp. I agree the screws for it were in the way for the size hole I drilled, I decided to mount it backwards, with the screws for tightening the clamp inside the box. Do you see any issues with doing it that way?
Thanks for watching and commenting. I've seen it done before. Some inspectors would fail it. Some inspectors, won't even look !
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 Thanks for the quick reply!
I like all the work that you put in but I don't understand why you don't just use a half inch service entrance connector?
It's water tight end it will secure the wire to the box more appropriately than a stab of sealant ...
Thanks for watching and commenting. Good point made. The main reason I don't uses them is the same reason I don't like using a Romex clamp. The wire is held-fast by the clamp and removal of an old disconnect can be super difficult, if and when the locknuts rust/corrode to the clamp. Now your using a more aggressive approach to the removal process, possible causing physical damage to the wire your trying to save.
This wouldn't be a problem if manufacturers would use corrosion proof hardware making the NM Romex wire clamps we use today. I believe cost of manufacturing materials prohibits this.
Running my wire is the easy part, the thing I'm not understanding is how you mount the box using the spacers, if you run the bottom screws in, than take them out to put in a spacer, doesn't the spacer just push the siding, if the screw made the hole, and the screw fits in the spacer, how wouldn't the spacer just push the siding back against the wood, don't you need to enlarge the screw holes in the vinyl for the spacer to fit in. I don't see how the siding could move back and forth like you said, how could it do this with the top screw in a hole that it made, the hole is not slotted for the vinyl to move left and right, other than that, I don't see the benifit of a mounting blick, I don’t see how they would prevent water from running back behind the vinyl without caulking the top and sides.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Great questions. The main purpose of the video was to express the importance of mounting a service disconnect securely to a wall. The spacers aid in the requirements of securely mounted disconnects. The vinyl sides can still expand on the right and left sides of a securely mounted disconnect if done properly.
Nice. I like it. Hey why didn't you staple the romex to the bottom of the floor joists instead of drilling them?
Nailing NM wire to the bottom of floor joist is a code volition unless a lath/nailer board is installed first. Drilling is much faster to install. It is a great comment 👍🏼and this topic comes up a lot in the 10 hour code classes that are required of license cycles. Most inspectors these days won't even crawl to check this out!
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 what about top of joist incase of attic run?
@@vigneshsan7976 wiring can be ran over ceiling joists as long as
1) wires are at least 6'+ or greater away from any walkway, flooring that was permanently installed.
2) wires are stapled to a vertical board as to protect from physical damage.
3) wires are ran behind structure's knee wall.
4) and last but not the least , drilled holes for wire installs.
I hope that helps answer your question. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 Thanks your reply. That helps.
Very nice job and thank you for taking the time to teach us.
Rookie Question: Will the UV light from the sun cause the PEX to disintegrate, become brittle and break apart?
Thanks for watching and commenting. No, I don't believe so. I've been doing this for years. And to add the silicone is an added layer of protection from the UV rays.
Do you not have to run either metal or pvc conduit when wiring under the home? Also, it seem you ran nm wire instead of Thhn? Is code different in different parts of usa?
Thanks for watching and commenting. This question has came up a few times. I'm in Maryland. As far as I know and what the inspector has told me, NM wire under residential housing is allowed as long as it's an acceptable location know as 24" tall crawl space. Thanks for the question.
Why did you install a sixty app disconnect? You only used 10 gauge wire? Just curious?
Thanks for watching and commenting.🧐 That's a great question. Mostly by supply and demand on the pricing of disconnects. More 60 amp disconnect are sold which makes them cheaper than the 30 amp one's.
@workingmanrondoyle3287 Thanks! Also was your outside disconnect fused?
And did you use GFCI Protection ?
Nice idea. Couldn’t you put a female with a. Romex connector on the end of that PVC? In the crawl space so you could secure that 10-2 Romex?
Thanks for watching and commenting, MCarroll 👍🏻
Yes, absolutely could do that. That was one of two suggestions from the electrical inspector, George Landing. Thanks again for the input, I had totally forgotten to mention that 👍🏻👍🏻. I hope the viewers read this comment ! It's a good one ❤️
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 absolutely Ron, good video!
If did that wouldn't you have to bond the metal romex connector?
@@johnnymalicoat754 technically yes. So install a four square box on the end of the PVC and bond box with ground screw and pass conductors through box then. That would work
Question.....im going to be installing 3 separate mini splits in my house . The 3 condensers will be sitting next to each other on the outside of my home. Do i need to have 3 separate circuits for electricity?? Meaning each mini split condenser will have a separate circuit, breaker and disconnect. I have a 200 amp breaker box with enough openings to do it however i was wondering if there was a different way of running power to them having only one breaker in the panel and then separate disconnects outside. Thanks 😊
Thanks for watching and commenting. There are two ways you could do this install.
1) each condenser have it's own service disconnect, feeder and breaker. In my opinion looks the best but sacrifices space in the main panel.
2) install a sub-panel near the location of the condenser units an run a feed to each condenser. No disconnect needed (as long as it's within 50' and clear line of sight of each unit. I hope that helps you in your decision.
@workingmanrondoyle3287 thank you 😊. I'm thinking I'm just going to add a 100 amp subpanel and run 3 circuits to the mini split condensers. Each condenser calls for a 20 amp breaker. Financially, this makes more sense, I think. Lol!
Are you using standard NM-B cable? Would there be an issue using UF-B cable in conduit since it's meant for outdoor?
Thanks for watching and commenting. That is a great question! UF cable can be used in conduit, sleeves and raceways.
Great job! It's evident you take pride in your work.
Thanks for watching and commenting 😊 I really appreciate it 👍
I really love your uses name🤣😂🤣
Would a 1.5 ton unit most likely be a 12-2 wire going to the disconnect instead of a 10-2?
Thanks for watching and commenting. I believe your right about a 1½ ton unit on a 12-2 . But what do I know 🤔 I'm not an HVAC guy.
How does the siding move after putting 3 screws in it? I guess I dont get it. Serious question.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Great question. Vinyl siding expands as it gets warmer throughout the heat of the day. That's why siding manufacturer's require it to be nailed loose so as it can expand through heat cycles without buckling. Siding blocks are made and recommend for all exterior penetration. But in a lot of new construction, scheduling different contractors on one job to work together is difficult. That's why a lot of people have resorted to direct fixture placement on vinyl siding covered walls. If done correctly, will not cause problems.
If a service disconnect, one (fixture) is mounted tightly on a wall, allowing the ends to float freely is a must to prevent buckling of the siding.
do you not have Neutrals on the AC wiring? or is it bonded to the ground?
Thank you for watching and commiting. That's a great question. This AC condensing unit is running on 240volt AC current. The neutral conductor is not need for such an installation. "Most electricians" in the states will reidentifying the white wire by applying black or red electric tape to such wire as listed in code as identifying as a hot conductor. Some electricians use a black sharpie marker for the same purpose can be used. I hope that helps answer your question.
blanco y negro lleban corriente porque es 240v cada linea lleva 120 para identicar el balanco se marca con color no lleva neutral solo tierra
What type of breaker did you use for the main panel ?
Thank you for watching and commenting. This house is wired on the 2017 code. Maryland hasn't adopted the 2020 yet. (The Main breaker is a 200 amp Square D Homeline) The breaker feeding the outdoor condenser unit is a regular 20 amp square D Homeline.
Great video but how do you wire inside. And why not 10-3?
Thanks for watching and commenting James. I've had this question about wiring the inside up , before. I should have added that but I'm trying to cut down on the length of my videos. You could use 10-3 wire but a neural isn't needed in this application. Just 2-hots & a ground.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 is it common or required or at least smart to use a breaker inside. I’m trying to learn because I don’t have a 30 double marked as ac
@@jamesleroy1473 If your referring to the outside ac condenser unit needing a break at the disconnecting means? No, in most cases. The fused protection should be in a sub or main panel. If you've upgraded your ac system, I would highly recommend you identify the feeder for this at the panel to make sure you have the right size wire & breaker feeding the new condenser unit. Now if your asking about the air handler part of your ac system? That is a whole other topic?
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 thank you for the info. Because of your video and info I located the inside panel breaker. Which was miss labeled. I thought I might not have a breaker in the panel.
That's the insulator box,right
Thanks for watching and commenting. I'm not sure I understand the question, but I'll try. The service disconnect is a non-fused Siemens brand. The Plastic pull out, is insulated from the metal enclosure.
Are the screws rust proof and what are the spacers called? And do you think you hit wood behind the vinyl?
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻 I really appreciate it. The screws I use are
no.12 x1½" long with a 5/16 hex head. They are zink coated steel. Good holding strength for service disconnects. The gray spacers are cut from ¼" PEX tubing (water supply lines) cut off's from the plumbers. These houses are sheathed with 7/16" OSB, so that would be a yes to hitting wood under the vinyl siding.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 my vinyl was put on in 2006 so I do not know what is underneath. I am slowly working up the courage to drill into it. Enjoyed the video. Thank you
@@iluvtim77 if you decide to drill through older siding here are some extra precautions to prevent the siding for cracking.
1)Drill above 70°F
2)Use a hair dryer to warm up the surface before drilling.
3)Drill the center pilot hole first in forward without the hole saw.
4)Run the hole saw over a bar of soap, Then
5)drill with hole saw in reverse to get through the vinyl siding.
6)Then remove the slugs in the hole saw and finish up drilling in forward through the wood structure. Hopefully that helps you.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 this is gonna sound silly to you but I’m trying to hang a reclaimed wood bird box it’s gonna be 5 lbs. These birds have some kind of magic power to draw you in. They first build a nest on top of my down spout but the wind blew it down some years ago. Bc my mom is near end of her life I decided to take it upon myself to learn how to hang Christmas lights and wreath professionally (vampire ends etc) above my garage is the stone so when I hung the 30 in wreath I used a concrete screw into a plastic square that you can run zip ties through. Well I went to take it down last week and they tried to build a nest in the wreath so I saved their work and purchased the bird box lol 😆
Dont you need a gfi? Under the discconect?
Thanks for watching and commenting. No, we're still under the 2017 codes here in Maryland. I think we're gonna be jumping over the 2020 and going right to the 2023 tho...🤔
What size breaker did u use?
I wire the condenser units by what the HVAC contractor tells me will be installed in each house I do. Labeling on the condenser units for this house were as follows
min. circuit amps 15
Max amps 20
Max circuit breaker 25
So I use 12-2 NM on o 25 amp breaker is allowed. Your situation may be different. I hope that answers your question.
what pliers are you using here?
I'm trying out the Milwaukee 9" long
7 in 1 high leverage combination pliers. They are growing on me and I like them! Thanks for watching 👍🏻👍🏻 and commenting.
If the AC is 25 amps why not use a 30 amp disconnect box instead of 60?
Thanks for watching and commenting. I use 60 amp service disconnects for everything 60 amps and under. They are ½ the cost here in Maryland.
hello where i can get this hole saw???
Thanks for watching and commenting.🤠 Here's a link to Amazon for the hole saw drill mandrel kit. You'll love it ! www.amazon.com/Diablo-DHSAR375-Arbor-Hex-Pilot-2nuts/dp/B01I25ABBW/ref=asc_df_B01I25ABBW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312003160272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3825448171863868995&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018702&hvtargid=pla-570995659353&psc=1#
DO YOU HAVE LINE1,LINE2 AND GROUND, WHERE IS THE NEUTRAL
Thanks for watching and commenting. You don't need a neural on a 240 volt circuit.
I'm new to your channel and the vids I've watched along with this one i enjoyed. The problem i have is this one along with several others I've seen is the narration is to fast, could you play them at the normal speed?!?!
you can play back any youtube video at lower speed
Thanks for watching and commenting Robert. I've had this complaint numerous times in the past and have since slowed the playback speed. Some people aren't aware you can adjust this on your end by touching the 3 dots on your upper right corner of the screen. Set playback to .75 🤠 doing this will slow any video down. Thanks again for your input , I appreciate you 👍🏻👍🏻
what screws do you use on the disconnect to attach to the wall?
Thanks for watching and commenting. I've been using a no.14 hex head that is 2" long. Your application may be different then mine. Mostly do to people using exterior polyurethane or polystyrene sheathing insulation would need longer screws.
The orange 10 gauge wire romex you are using is not rated for outdoor use. It's basically not water resistant. It doesn't matter that it's inside an enclosure (disconnect box) I understand the electrical code.Says you can do this but over time that wire will be damaged due to water moisture.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I would agree 💯. The most damaging thing I've ever noticed is light corrosion on the bare copper and terminal lugs of the service disconnects.
What wire would you use, nmwu wire? As for copper oxidizing, would penetrox fix that? Honestly just want to know man
@Bruhsidon Run THHN THWN
Its water resistant
@@theseattlegreen1871 You could also use UF wire. And add some Nol-OX to combat the oxidation and corrosion on the bare ground. Keep in mind people living on the coast, corrosion and oxidation will be more prevalent in these areas.
Sad part is, there's a block that the disconnect can be attached to on the siding and not have to use a focking tube of Silicone....smh
Thanks for watching and commenting. I try to install vinyl siding blocks when I can. Sometimes the contractor gets the jump on me and I'm tied to another project.
Ur not allowed to tape wire by code
Thanks for watching and commenting. I'm not sure where you heard that but that's false information. Re-Identifying wire can be done with colored tape or colored permanent marker. Your choice.
Good warak